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Roadless Rule and Dark Divide the Dark Divide Was Once Much Larger Than Its Current 76,000 Acres

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Roadless Rule and Dark Divide the Dark Divide Was Once Much Larger Than Its Current 76,000 Acres Exploring the PRING S RA Dark Divide I Despite its intimidating name, the Dark Divide is a place of sunny ridges and tremendous wildflower meadows. The region is endangered, however, by threats from off-road vehicle use. Southwest Washington’s threatened gem By Andrew Engelson soils and meadows. The region was A thick layer of ash from the 1980 excluded from the protections of the eruption of Mount St. Helens is still Don’t be afraid of the Dark Divide. 1984 Washington Wilderness Bill. prominent. Even with a somewhat ominous But hikers are slowly reclaiming the The region is home to a variety of name, this spectacular roadless area ridges with their boots. And there are forest ecosystems, all dependent on between Mount St. Helens and Mt. many reasons to go: unique geology, wildfires. Huge wildfires in the early Adams is actually filled with light: sun- abundant wildflowers and wildlife, 1900s left many of the open meadows baked ridges, subalpine forests, and and superb views. and silver-gray snags you’ll find there meadows exploding with wildflowers. The lava flows that are the founda- today. Even so, the region is home to Named for the 19th century miner tion of the 76,000-acre region are huge trees. Just outside the Dark and settler John Dark, the Dark approximately 20 to 25 million years Divide roadless area, you can find the Divide long served as hunting and old. Areas such as Juniper and world’s largest noble fir, near gathering grounds for American Langille Ridge were actually once Yellowjacket Creek. Pacific silver fir Indians. Sheepherders and miners valleys, into which the lava cooled, dominates the upper portions of came in the late 1800s, and in 1897 hardened, and remained after the Quartz Creek, and sizeable mountain and 1908 the lands were added to the hillsides eroded away. The rock hemlock can be found along the Dark Rainier Forest Reserve and the gardens and arches on Snagtooth Divide’s Boundary Trail. Elegant Columbia National Forest. Logging mountain contain “pillow lavas”— subalpine fir dominate above 5,000 took its toll in the mid-20th century, evidence of underwater eruptions. feet. and offroad motorcycle use has Glaciers carved much of the volcanic In early summer, the Divide’s damaged many of the fragile pumice region in the past 100 thousand years. meadows blaze with color from Exploring the Dark Divide ESTOCK B AUL P Roadless Rule and Dark Divide The Dark Divide was once much larger than its current 76,000 acres. Road building over the years punctured many of its pristine corners and severed acres from the core. For years, activists worked to stop the bleeding and keep road building from further fragmenting the Dark Divide. The answer finally came with the Clinton administration’s Roadless Rule. The Roadless Rule would have placed unroaded areas of Na- Mount Adams from Juniper Ridge. Meadows created by fires in the early 20th tional Forests off limits to road century give many areas in the Dark Divide open, expansive views. building, preserving their value as recreation areas and wildife habitat. The proposal would have paintbrush, lupine, yellow wallflower, for increased ORV use. And more and protected 58.5 million acres penstemon, beargrass, and a host of more hikers from Southwest Washing- across the country, including 2 other wildflowers. In August, fields of ton and beyond are discovering the million in Washington. WTA huckleberries ripen on Juniper Ridge fragile beauty of the area. strongly supports the original rule. and Jumbo’s Shoulder. What can you do to help? First and Sadly, the Bush administration These ecosystems are also home to foremost enjoy the Dark Divide. Take has not shown the same commit- a parade of wildlife. The forests are a hike there, and let others know ment to our roadless areas. home to northern goshawk, Vaux’s about this unique area. Recently released alterations to swift, pine martens, red tree voles, Write your representatives and the the rule would allow governors to bull trout, and threatened salmonids. Forest Service. Let them know you petition the Forest Service to Pacific giant salamander, Northwest want to keep the Clinton exclude or include specific areas salamander and the rare Larch administration’s Roadless Rule in in their states. This rule change mountain salamander can all be found place and that you’d like to see areas places far too much power in the in the lowland forests. Deer and elk of the Dark Divide protected as hands of narrow interests when it move to the high meadows in sum- federal Wilderness. comes to managing lands that mer, and on the ridges you might spot And consider attending WTA’s everyone in the United States black bear, bobcat, wolverine, cougar annual Dark Divide Weekend, owns. These lands are an endow- and mountain goats. Raptors such as September 11-12. We’ll have a ment from visionary forebears, peregrine falcon and golden eagles campout, barbecue, guided hikes, and and handing their management soar above. a talk by Doug Scott, policy director to governors is a denial of that Much of this ecosystem has been for Campaign for America’s Wilder- vision. You can comment on the threatened in recent years—by ness. For more information, call WTA proposed changes at http:// logging in the late 20th century, and at (206) 625-1367 or visit www.wta.org roadless.fs.fed.us/#comments, now by motorized recreation. For and click on “Dark Divide Weekend.” or via postal mail at: years, WTA has sought protection for With more boots on the trails of the the region, and those efforts are Dark Divide, and more letters in Content Analysis Team beginning to pay off. In August, officials’ inboxes, you’ll help to save ATTN: Roadless State Petitions Congressman Brian Baird took a one of Washington’s magnificent but USDA Forest Service survey flight over the region to assess threatened places. ! P.O. Box 221090 what might be protected in future. Many thanks to WTA member Kurt Salt Lake City , UT 84122 Court victories have prevented the Wieland, who provided much of the Forest Service from “improving” trails information for this article. Exploring the Dark Divide Best Trails of the Dark Divide Trail Descriptions by steeply up the Badger Ridge Trail Susan Saul and Joan Burton for 1/4 mile, then turn right on Craggy Peak the spur trail to the summit. Just 13 miles round trip, 1,700 feet Badger Peak below the summit, the trail gain, hikeable July-Oct. 10 miles round trip, 1,600 feet crosses a steep gully that has Miles of forest ridges, a pretty gain, hikeable late July-Sept. snow early in the season. Wind little lake, and a scramble up This hike follows the Boundary around the peak to the blasted-off Craggy Peak make this a great Trail (the former boundary top where the lookout cabin once hike for viewing the Lewis River between the Columbia Forest stood. side of the Dark Divide. The first and Rainier Forest Reserves) to Getting there: Follow Road 90 part of the trail crosses clearcuts the site of a former fire lookout east from Cougar to junction with and Wright Creek, which doesn’t and sweeping views from Mount Road 25, continue on Road 25 to have a bridge and may pose a Hood to Mount Rainier. Elk Pass, which is about 40 miles challenge. This trail has some really bad motorcycle ruts. After The trail is mostly in woods, from Cougar and 24 miles from about 3 miles, the vistas begin as going up and down along the Randle. The Boundary Trail the trail ascends into thinner ridgecrest, for 4 miles to a parking area is located about 200 timber. At about 5 miles, look junction just before Badger Lake. feet north of the pass on the west down through the trees to see Walk over and take a look at side of Road 25, elevation 4,080 Blue Lake in a glacial cirque. Badger Lake before turning left feet. The trail to Badger Peak is Reach the Boundary Trail at 6 on the Badger Ridge Trail. Climb across the road from the parking lot. Green Trails McCoy Peak 333. miles. For the best views, Exploring the Dark Divide Best Trails of the Dark Divide scramble up the east face of 5,725- Getting there: Drive I-5 south foot Craggy Peak. Juniper Peak and find the exit for Highway 12. 8 miles round trip, 2,000 feet Getting there: From Cougar, go Drive Highway 12, continuing gain, hikeable mid-June-Nov. east on Road 90 to the junction south to Randle. Go south on just past the Pine Creek Informa- The trail traverses the east face of State Route 130 for 1 mile, cross tion Center, stay straight ahead on Juniper Peak; the off-trail ap- the Cowlitz River, then go left on Road 25 rather than turning right proach to the summit is from the Road #23, about 24 miles south on Road 90. At 5.6 miles, at the saddle on the south side of the from Randle. In about 5 miles first switchback after climbing peak. Views of Rainier, St. Helens, turn right or east onto Road away from the Muddy River, turn and Adams, abundant huckleber- 2324. Go right 5.6 more miles on right on Road 93. Go about 19 ries, and lovely ridge walking. rough road. Turn onto logging miles to Road 9327, turn left, cross Water is scarce, making this a spur Road 063 to the trailhead, Wright Creek, and find the better day hike than a backpack.
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