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Stavanger (1901) Stavanger the LAST VOYAGE STAVANGER (1901) Stavanger THE LAST VOYAGE ‘The forecast is for strong westerly wind tomorrow. The west wind comes straight from Iceland, so there will be a big sea as well.’ It took a few seconds for Johan’s words to sink in and for me to think: west? Straight from Iceland? Surely, he was exaggerating? But a quick look at a map confirmed it: Rørvik, where we were moored, is on the same latitude as Iceland and slightly further north than its capital city Reykjavík. Another 80 miles further north lies the Arctic Circle. No wonder it was cold! We were sitting in Stavanger’s saloon, drinking coffee after a breakfast of dried cod, pickled herring and brown cheese. The wood-burning stove was lit, and the paraffin lamp was casting a warm glow over the pale oak panelling. It was a special moment not only because it was the exact same cabin where dozens of crews took shelter while performing life-saving duties during the ship’s working life, but also because it was the vessel’s last voyage. Ever. For Stavanger was a unique ship with a unique destiny. Not only was she one of the last Colin Archer rescue boats (redningskøyte in Norwegian) in existence, but also she was probably the most original. Owned by the same family for 59 years after being decommissioned, she was virtually as she was the day she was launched in 1901. She had no engine, no electricity, and cooking was done on a wood- burning stove. When the Norwegian Society for Sea Rescue (NSSR) decided to buy back one of the original redningskøyte to be preserved for posterity, there were several Colin Archers to choose from, but Stavanger was at the top of their list. Less obvious was what to do with her once they’d bought her. At least half a dozen museums, each with seemingly strong claims, vied with each other to provide a home for the vessel. Eventually, the NSSR chose the Norwegian National Maritime Museum in Oslo. There, she would be exhibited close to such famous ships as Gjøa, the first ship to cross the North-West Passage, and Fram, also designed by Colin Archer and used by both Nansen and Amundsen in their polar expeditions. It was a controversial decision, not least because the museum’s intention was to lift the boat out of the water and remove a section of hull planking to give better visibility to LEFT: This is what Stavanger was built for: to go out to sea when other boats were heading for harbour. Her crew wears traditional gear – plus lifejackets. 32 33 the visiting public. Which effectively meant Stavanger she would never go to sea again. There were many within the Colin Archer community, and indeed the wider boating community, who argued that taking a perfectly sound boat out of service and turning her into a static display was nothing short of sacrilegious. Far better, they argued, to maintain her in sailing condition, and use her to study how an authentic redningskøyte performs at sea. The argument was intensified in 1997 Ultimate Classic Yachts when, just a few months after the NSSR bought Stavanger, another Colin Archer rescue boat sank. Christiania was sailing from Norway to Denmark in a force 9 gale when she ‘fell off’ a wave and went down in 1,500 feet (500 metres) of water. The vessel, which had been owned by the Petersen family for 20 years, had recently undergone an extensive refit and was thought to be in ‘as new’ condition. Incredibly, the boat was eventually raised and restored and, three years later, was sailing once again. But the incident underlined how vulnerable these vessels are and how easily they could be lost — along with the maritime legacy they represent. Above: Colin Archer overseeing work When I joined Stavanger in Rørvik, the ship and her crew had already Stavanger’s skipper was Johan Petersen. His family owned Christiania in his boatyard in Larvik, c1903. The boat been sailing for four weeks, and the snow that had been settling on her in-build is a redningskøyte of the same class and he was on board, along with his brother and some friends, when she deck had receded to the mountain tops. Our plan was to sail to the outlying as Stavanger. sank. After overseeing her painstaking restoration, he was asked by the islands of Sør-Gjæslingan, 20 miles to the south-west. From there, it was NSSR to take charge of the Stavanger project and became her de facto 100 miles of open sea all the way to Stavanger’s one-time home of Titran skipper. He fully supported the decision to take the vessel out of the water. — which is why the westerly wind was of concern. Stavanger could sail in ‘During the restoration of Christiania, it became apparent there should any weather, as her history proved, but whether her crew was up for a 24- be sources for how these boats were really built and how problems were hour thrash into a westerly gale was another matter. solved – on a detailed level,’ he said. ‘During such a process, many In the end, the weather was typically Norwegian: one minute gloriously questions arise about how to do things and, even though the general layout calm and sunny, the next viciously dark and squally. We arrived at Sør- is well known, the details are often difficult to find. Later, when I got directly SPECIFICATIONS Gjæslingan at dusk as the wind was picking up to force 7, and eventually involved with Stavanger, it made sense to me that exactly this ship should LOD: 47ft 1in (14.35m) managed to pick out the channel into the harbour. Manoeuvring in an be preserved and “frozen” in time as her source value is so great.’ LWL: 41ft (12.50m) unfamiliar harbour with no engine, it was a matter of dropping the anchor But before Stavanger was ‘frozen in time’, there was time for one last, Beam: 15ft 3in (4.65m) at a safe distance off the jetty and then warping in, using the old cast iron symbolic voyage: 1,000 miles from the Lofoten Islands, 120 miles north Draft: 7ft 8in (2.35m) capstan. Whenever possible, the crew tried to do things as they would have of the Arctic Circle, down the west coast of Norway and up the Oslofjord Displacement: 31 tons been done 100 years ago because, as much as anything, it was a chance to her final resting place. On the way, she would visit most of the stations Sail area: 1,185sq ft (110m2) to learn about how these boats were handled and why. where the original rescue boats were once based, including the town of TOP: Stavanger pictured in Kristiansund ‘If you don’t have an engine as a backup, it forces you to think Titran on the island of Frøya, where she spent most of her 38 years in c1911, with portraits of her skipper and crew differently,’ said Johan. ‘We have learned a great deal of competence and of the period. service. It was a voyage to raise awareness of Stavanger and of the work of knowledge sailing without an engine. For that reason, the ideal solution the NSSR, both past and present – a chance for people to visit an original Above: The Norwegian rescue boats worked would be to preserve this boat and build an identical replica — without year round, come rain or snow. redningskøyte, and to imagine what life must have been like for the crews engine — to carry on learning about the old ways. But unfortunately there who lived on these boats. isn’t the money to do that.’ 34 35 Fishing in Norway in the 18th century was a dangerous occupation. Båtbyggeri in Risør to reverse any changes that had been made during her Stavanger As the industry became more lucrative, fishermen sailed ever further to time as a yacht. The engine was removed, the cockpit rebuilt and, below gather their catch of fish, usually in small open boats really suitable only decks, the heads was replaced by a traditional ‘Little Siri’ — or wooden for coastal work. As a result, in 1846–1855, there were around 700–750 bucket. Even the paintwork was replicated exactly as the original, thanks to deaths at sea every year. But it wasn’t until the Norwegian Society for Sea a painstaking 15-page study conducted by the Norwegian Institute for Rescue was established in 1891 that the idea of building seaworthy rescue Cultural Heritage Research. The work received an official stamp of approval boats to patrol the fisheries full-time gained credence. The following year, in 2003, when Norway’s National Directorate for Cultural Heritage declared the society announced a competition to find a suitable design, with a prize Stavanger an historic vessel, a status granted to less than 200 boats. of 150 NOK for the winner. Colin Archer was the eventual victor, and over Back in Sør-Gjæslingan, the promised westerly gale had set in and the next 30 years some 32 lifeboats were built to his plans. Between them, it became clear that Stavanger and her crew wouldn’t be heading for they saved 2,500 lives ‘from certain death’. Titran any time soon. Instead, they decided to go out and film a few Ultimate Classic Yachts Stavanger was built in 1901 and was the third of the so-called Svolvaer more manoeuvres to record how the boat performed in foul weather. class. She served for 37 years in the NSSR, during which time she went As an additional touch of authenticity, they abandoned their modern to the assistance of some 2,996 vessels and saved 53 lives.
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