Holiday Highlights Namibia 25 July ––– 8 August 2015

The Splendour of the Namib Desert; Flamingos and Fur Seals of Walvis Bay; and the Wonder of Etosha. Africa Without Tears

Leaders: Joe Grosel and Darren Rees

Guests: Marilyn Pritchard and Mark Bridges, Lynn and Steve Osborne, Marilyn Peterkin, Jayne Behenna, Christine and Max Maughan, Sarah Sharland, Anne Seebeck, Pat Gurling and Hilary Rolton.

Day 1: We meet up at Heathrow’s Terminal 5 for our big African adventure. We’ve an evening flight to Johnannesburg to negotiate before onwards travel to Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. Introductions first, then straight through to the duty free for some retail therapy.

Day 2: After an uneventful and comfortable flight we land in a cool Johannesburg, passing through immigration to wait for our connecting flight to Namibia. We meet our Birding Africa guide Joe Grosel at the gate for the flight to Windhoek and board. The flight takes us across endless scrub and semi-desert before finally desending into Windhoek airport. Walking to the terminal we see our first – a Cape Wagtail followed by a curious Grey Hornbill while we queue for immigration. It’s a bit of a wait for bags but finally they get through and we get our vehicles for the holiday ahead. It’s only a twenty minute drive to our first hotel and enroute we see baboons! (And a Cape Vulture.) We check in and have a short walk before it gets dark. White-backed Mousebirds, Red-eyed Bulbul and Laughing Dove are in the garden along with lots of Helmeted Guineafowl and a Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler. We take a short walk to open ground where we see three delightful Yellow Mongeese, or is that Mongooses! Also, there’s a Gabar Goshawk in a treetop and some small that include Black-chested Prinia, Pririt Batis and Palm Swifts. Then Marilyn picks up a fantastic Blacksmith’s Lapwing. We are watching this when we spot a group of Black-tailed Tree Rats in a tree. What a good start to the list.

We end the day at a fun restaurant in Windhoek that’s been tippeed off that Max and Christine are celebrating their 40 th wedding anniverasry – they’ve decorated the table and made a cake – shame its outside as it’s a tad chilly.

Day 3: We have a pre-breakfast wander to nearby Avis Dam, a short five minute drive away. The sun is strong but its still cool in the shade at 6.30am. We park and immediately note new birds: a stunning Crimson-breasted Shrike is at the top of a bush and in a tree above the vans are smaller birds: both Yellow-bellied and Burt-necked Eremomola with Black-chested Prinia. Joe spots two Black-faced Waxbills roosting, huddling together for warmth. It’s a short walk to view the dam and there is still some water though most of the reservoir floor is cracked mud. Common Waxbills are in the short grass. In the water are lots of South African Shelduck and both Cape and Red-billed Teal. Egyptian geese are close to a solitary African Spoonbill. Big numbers of Pied Avocets are wading up to their bellies in the water as are Black-winged Stilts, and behind on rocks Lynn finds a perched Hamerkop. Along the near shore are several Three-banded Plovers and Joe finds us our first Kittlitz’s Plovers. Small birds include Cape Wagtails, African Pipit and Marilyn finds a Golden-bresated Bunting. Jayne finds a lovely Black-shouldered Kite in a tree then we get a superb fly-over from a Fish Eagle that puts the birds into a panic. A great start to the day and we even get endemic Carp’s Tits before we get inside the breakfast room!

After breakfast we get the vans loaded up then venture into Windhoek stopping at an ultra-modern supermarket for lunches – an eye-opener into middle-class Namibians.

We hit the road south and west from the city that winds through the highlands. New birds come thick and fast with endemic Monteiro’s Hornbill in the acacia trees. A huge group of Marabou Storks are in one clearing looking like a group of unkempt old men. Next are Glossy Starlings then a Short-toed Rock Thrush. At our first leg-stretch we can look over extensive views of rolling acacia scrub and we see our first superb Oryx; a lso Black-chested Snake Eagle soaring.

Further along the road a water tank attracts many small birds and we park and set up scopes: Great Sparrows, Black -throated Canaries, Red-headed Finch and -like Buntings are at the water, and around about in trees are Yellow-billed Hornbill, Marico Flycatcher and Acacia Pied Barbet. A short drive further we see a large troop of baboons wandering close to another water tank. It’s delightful watching their antics with one adult grooming a young , two parents carrying even smaller younger baboons and one resting in a rusty trough as if he’s taking a bath – great fun to watch.

Next stop is at a bridge that crosses a dried up river course where there are several huge ostriches in a clearing – fantastic! Seems like a good place for lunch.

After sandwiches and fruit we continue driving along the winding gravel track stopping for birds here and there: Two giant Lappet-faced Vultures soar overhead; Spike-heeled and Namaqua Sandgrouse are by the roadside. Red-crested Korhaan in the road; Pale-chanting Goshawks atop trees and posts. We stop and get out to look at two glossy Scimitarbills, with Cape Sparrow in the bushes. On some trees are large communal nests, looking like thatched roofs, that belong to Sociable Weavers – some are on the ground with Scaly-feathered Finches. As the road drops in altitude we enter larger areas of grassy openings and see our first large groups of delightful Springbok (with a Black Korhaan in same view).

The road then winds through mountains and the spectacular Remhoogte Pass. We watch our first groups of smartly marked Greater Kudu and Joe finds a delightful Steenbok close to the road sat by a fence - Klipspringers are more obvious in the rocky slopes of a nearby narrow ravine. After more bends and lots of dust we finally drop to the plains around Solitaire where we pause to admire the last of the days sun colouring the spectacular natural amphithreatre of rugged mountains. In the open sparse vegetated plain are Springbok, Oryx and a roosting Lappet-faced Vulture. Closer to are some Dusky Sunbirds and Joe finds us our first Sabota Lark.

The final drive takes us south in the fading light that colours the landscape of receding mountaind ridges and plains – finally at 6pm we check in at the delightful Weltevrede Guest House surrounded by Springbok!

After smartening up we enjoy a lovely meal and an impromptu birthday song for Jayne from the waitresses – sung in their native tongue with lots of clicks and popping noises!

And so to the late night vigil at the water hole…. most can view from the comfort of their rooms but some don hats and fleeces and sit out. wander in and out: Oryx and Springbok take in in turns to drink, a Cape Fox scrurries around on the edge of the darkness and a Spotted Thick-knee makes an appearance.

Day 4: We met up at 6.30 am for a quick coffee and bowl of cereal before loading the vans and heading off for the day. The grounds are really birdy with Acacia Pied Barbet, Red-headed Finch and Sociable Weavers at the water hole. Close to the buildings are Mountain Chat, Rosy-faced Lovebirds, Yellow and White-throated Canary.

Driving along the approach road we see Springbok, Secretary Bird and our first Blue Wildebeeste. We even see a one-horned oryx – a genuine unicorn. What a great start.

The road in the early morning light is truly spectacular with rugged mountains, stony plains and grassy hollows. Already the desert air is distorting the views in the far distance with a row of trees stretched tall. A large group of zebras crosses the road infront and stop on the stony slope so we can check out their stripes – broad black and white flanks and a grid iron rump points to Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra – another new mammal.

Further along there are perched raptors: first a large Black-chested Snake Eagle then two White-backed Vultures waiting for the days thermals to start. The final bumpy section of the track leads to Sossus Oases and the gateway to the Namib Naukluft National Park. We stop and check the facilities, including the impressive Sociable Weaver nests.

Entering the park the road changes from gravel to tarmac and we enjoy some welcome comfort. We stop at a couple of points where we can photograph oryx and ostrich with the beautiful backdrop of red dunes – a wondeful natural amphitheatre. Stony plains stretch to the base of the dunes and hillsides and birds are catching the eye. First Burchell’s Coursers are running around and stopping abruptly, then Ruppell’s Korhaans walk furtively across.

At the 45km mark the road skirts the base of one of the huge red sand dunes – Dune 45 no less – yes they number the dunes in the National Park! It’s a chance to walk one of the dunes and already some folk are climbing the steep red slope. We decide to have a late breakfast first, accompanied by Pied Crows and a Fiscal Shrike. Then it’s off for a fun hike to the summit led by trailblazer Max. The views are arresting with wrap around panorama of the ranked series of red dunes and the stony valley floor. We even see some of the fabled dune beetles that eke a living from this, one of the most hostile environment on earth. No wonder its Pat, Max and Christine’s place-of-the-trip.

Back at the bottom we start the journey back planning to take in a couple of different stops. The first is at a dry river crossing where there is a ribbon of trees and taller vegetation. A large group of Springboks are there and a short walks reveals three Warthogs and a few Dusky Sunbirds. Keen to track down one of the rare endemics we head to the base of another dune that has some grasses and other pioneer plants at the base. It is classic habtat for the specialist breeder Dune Lark and we have only got out of the vans for a few seconds when Joe announces ‘there’s one!’ Blimey that was quick! We spend half an hour or more getting great looks at this unusual bird and at times it walks right beneath our feet. Wow!

The drive back is via Sossus Gate and along the bumpy track heading north we stop at a wide open vista to scan the grassy plain. It’s a wonderful scene straight from Out of Africa with distant herds of zebra, oryx and a couple of wildebeeste. Among the zebra are smaller animals rummaging around on the ground – they have rounded backs, bushy tails and huge ears: Bat-eared Foxes! At the last stop we see Ruppell’s Korhaans close by with Tractrac Chat, Chat Flycatcher and Fiscal Shrike.

Along the final approach to the guest house something strange is squatting at the side of the road. It has large ears and a dog-like face. It raises up and bounds of showing its stripey back and bushy tail. An Aardwolf! What a great end to the day.

Our evening meal is served with some singing again, followed by a night vigil when a Blue Wildebeeste herd enters. There’s a bit of a stampede with the Springbok and Oryx. Some folk fall asleep in their chairs – time for bed.

Day 5: An early morning get together starts with coffee at 6am then a look around the grounds as the first light hits Weltevrede. Joe finds some star birds: two wonderful Spotted Eagle Owls are sat in two of the tallest trees in the compound. They peer down at us staring into our telescope lens – a great start!

We walk through the gate and do a circuit through the stony scrub catching the early birds: Pririt Batis, Masked Weavers, Helmeted Guineafowl, Black-chested Prinia, Chat Flycatcher. When we take off into the scrub we can hear a sound like a telephone ringing – two colourful Bokmakeries are calling and perching high in a bush. The morning mist that has obscured the mountains starts to lift as we complete a circuit and return to the taller trees around the guesthouse. Lovebirds are squawking and Pale-winged Starlings perched up in trees. The birds are distracting Darren so much that he fails to see where he’s treading and gets ensnared in a ring of discarded wire, taking a far from straight forward fall – luckily only a bruised rib and ego to report! After dusting himself off normal service is resumed and we get on with more birds: Lark-like Bunting, Acacia Pied Barbet, White-backed Mousebird, Mountain Chat, White-throated Canary, Dusky Sunbird, Long-billed Crombec and lovely Namaqua Sandgrouse.

After breakfast we admire the waves of sandgrouse that are visiting the waterhole, before setting off on a long transfer. The route takes us north to Solitaire where we check the tyres as well as the local population of Cape Ground Squirrels and Glossy Starlings.

The road to Walvis Bay goes through more dynamic countryside with vast panoramas sweeping before us. Roadside birds include African Hawk Eagles, Ruppell’s Korhaan, Pale Chanting Goshawks and Greater Kestrels. We stop and admire the setting for groups of ostriches and zebras as the landscape continues to impress. However, shortly after crossing the Tropic of Capricorn Joe’s van suffers a flat tyre – time to implement the breakdown procedure that works well, and in no time (well, thirty minutes or so) we are back on track.

After a short while we pass a bend and see two large eagles soaring – black wings with white patches and a large white rump. Two Verraux’s Eagles are displaying together! Lunchspot is down by the river bed – includes an interesting cold baked bean salad! Lynn spots some Rock Hyraxes on the opposite stony slope and after eating we walk over to get great views of these cute critters. We also see Pririt Batis, Rock Martin and a deligtful Bru-bru.

After lunch its time to hit the gravelroad and we pass through a series of bewildering landscapes. These are largely empty and devoid of life save small groups of Oryx, Springbok and Ruppell’s Korhaans.

Finally we arrive at Walvis Bay and the cool coast. It’s windy and the sand from the desert is blowing across the main road. To the south are small lagoons in the dunes, stuffed with both Greater and Lesser Flamingos. At the waterfront there are even more flamingos and we venture forth in the stiff wind to find more waders: Whimbrel, Grey Plover and Bar-tailed Godwits make us feel at home. Caspian, Swift and Sandwich Terns are resting on sand bars with Cape and Hartlaubs Gulls. From a second viewpoint we add Blacksmith’s Lapwing, Sanderling and White-fronted Plovers. What a fine end to a varied day.

After checking in the Walvis Bay Oysterbox guesthouse it’s off for a meal at Anchors – the fresh seafood is a hit!

Day 6:6:6: A few of us are scanning the bay before breakfast and see the same cross-section of birds as yesterday with the addition of Black-necked Grebes, White-breasted Cormorants and Black Oystercatcher. Thankfully the wind has dropped so we are looking forward to our morning boat trip.

After breakfast we drive the short distance to the quayside where Levo Dolphin trips are based. We have to walk the plank to get on the small boat but all manage it without falling in! Once on board we are introduced to our captain, Billy, who’s far from a kid. He’s been working these waters for a lifetime and now enjoys showing folks the wildlife wonders of the bay. And it starts quite soon, as the boat is immediately surrounded by Great White Pelicans. Curiously they are sporting a pink suffusion as a result of the rich plankton content of the water. One lands on the canopy of the boat and hitches a ride. In the bay we are joined by a friendly Cape Gull who is looking for a free meal and Billy obliges with a gift of a fish. A third animal is keen for a feed and soon comes towards the boat. A large Cape Fur Seal climbs on the boat and works its way onto the seats! It’s inches away from everyone!! The closest possible of encounters.

We move further out into the bay passing large ships at anchor – testament to the importance of Walvis Bay as one of the busiest ports in Africa. We also pass under a towering oil rig that is moored at anchor for maintainance. We can now see the furthest point of land that marks the southern boundary of the bay, and it is covered with Cape Fur Seals and Cape Cormorants in equal measure. Our destination is the waters off the point and the haunts of one of the rarest dolphins in the world – the endemic Heaviside’s or Benguela Dolphin. It doesn’t take long before Captain Billy spots them close to another whalewatch boat as they are bow-wave riding. We move closer and the dolphins come to our boat to share the fun – we can see the distinct shallow triangular dorsal fin and the pale markings around the head. At one point the group has a whitish, leucistic dolphin riding with them – even rarer!

More dolphins are seen, then we move along the shingle spit where huge numbers of Cape Cormorants and Cape Fur Seals are gathered. Further along two jackals are walking along the sand bar after their morning sortie. Billy then brings out the table cloths and food platters for a small picnic afloat – there are not many takers for the raw oysters but the champagne and canapes are good. It’s a great way to end the cruise and we make our way back to the quayside.

Back for a late lunch at the Oysterbox and there’s a case of mix-a-me-toasties… we eventually get the right order. Afterwards, Joe returns with another spare tyre (to replace yesterday’s defective tyre) and we drive off to explore further. We drive past the huge dune field to the east and park at a crossing over the Swakop River. There are a few water species: flamingoes, avocets, stilts and Cape Teal. It’s still very windy and small birds are difficult to find. We do manage Familiar Chat and Cape Wagtail. We walk towards the golf course and find plenty of Springboks enjoying the watered green fairways (along with Egyptian Geese), and there are a few sunbirds too. We walk back to the river where flamingoes are joined by avocets, stilts and plovers: Kittlitz’s, Three-banded and Chestnut- banded. Finally we drive back to Walvis Bay and nice meal at the Raft Restaurant.

Day 7: A pre-breakfast scan across the lagoon at Walvis Bay reveals much the same as before with the nice morning light illuminating the flamingoes and oystercatchers. Some of us see White-breasted Cormorants for the first time too.

After breakfast we set off north hugging the coastline with wild Atlantic breakers pounding the beaches and rocks on the west side and the hugh white dunes of Dorob National Park to the east. After half-an-hour or so we reach the historic town of Swakopmund with its mix of old and new streets – all spotless and tidy. After getting fuel and food we continue north across a wide coastal plain with very little vegetation. Stopping north of Henties Bay for a rest stop we scout out the potential lunch spot for later at Fisherman’s Inn – nice Red-capped Lark too. Finally we reach our destination for the morning, Cape Cross. We pay our fees at the entrance kiosk then drive the final mile to the point noting a Giant Petrel gliding by. We park and the scene is unbelievable, grabbing all the senses: Cape Fur Seals are covering the rocks and beaches in their tens of thousands as well as playing in the breakers and shallows. Their raucous calling is the constant backdrop as is their pungent odour. It’s a wonderful sight and must be a real highlight of the trip. We walk along the boardwalk that gives us uninterrupted view across the gathering, and everyone is in their own little world taking photographs or videos or just plain smiling with a happy mix of awe and wonder. For Marilyn it proves to be the place-of-the-trip.

Other things are on view including Ruddy Turnstone, White-fronted Plover, Red-capped Lark, Cape Gannet and at one point Joe points out a Humpback Whale in the distance! Yet the stars of the show are the wonderful fur seals – a truly memorable visit.

Lunch is back at the Fisherman’s Inn where we learn of the local Meerkats… it might be worth checking out as we are passing. Sure enough , just a few miles north of Henties Bay there is some openland with lots of stumpy bushes. Next to the road is a delightful Meerkat and when we stop we can see more scurrying around. Simples!

From Henties Bay the long straight road heading north and east towards Uis yields very few birds: a few larks and korhaans. Later we check-in at the White Lady B&B, and after dumping off bags in our new rooms we walk to the small pool in the grounds that attracts sandgrouse everynight. As if on cue beautifully marked Double-banded Sandgrouse flutter in and start drinking at the water. At dinner we meet our friendly host and she introduces us to barbecued oryx!

Day 8: Before breakfast we stroll the dusty streets of Uis picking up some familiar birds and some new: Dusky Sunbirds, Palm Swifts, White-browed Sparrow Weaver, Red-eyed Bulbul and Pale-winged Starling are joined by a smart melanistic Gabar Goshawk, and an endearing Red-faced Mousebird that is taking in the morning sun. Back at the lodge there is a tree full of deligtful Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters and Steve informs us there has been a Red-billed Francolin at the pool – and he has photographic proof! At breakfast the birds continue with a Mountain Wheatear hopping aroun the dining area and a African Hawk Eagle perched on the hillside.

After breakfast we leave Uis on the long, windy and dusty track north that takes us through the stony hills. This is the country of the Herero people and we stop after a half hour or so where there is a roadside vendor. She is wearing the traditional bright clothes and headgear of the Herero women and is selling her crafts under the less than watchful eye of he son. Lots of photographs and trinkets too.

The first birding stop is at the Ugab river crossing where we can park and walk along the dry river bed with its relatively luxuriant growth of trees. In the sand are the unmistakable footprints of elephants and there are excavations where they have dug to reach the ground water. These are the small population of Desert Elephants that wander the area – great to know we are in the right area! It’s a profitable stop with an obliging Pearl-spotted Owlet that responds to Joe’s whistles; a stunning male Scarlet-chested Sunbird; and looks at Ruppell’s Parrots, Damara Hornbills, and Camanoptera. Rock Hyraxes are sunning themselves on the rocks too.

Continuing along the road we stop at a large roadside pool that is attracting birds: most obvious are the large flotilla of Shelduck with Egyptian Geese and a pied Sacred Ibis. There is a Booted Eagle on the far shore too. There are lots of small birds coming to drink and these include Red-headed Finches, Lark-like Buntings, Grey-backed Finch-larks, and Stark’s Larks.

The approach road to the Rustig Toko lodge takes across large open areas where we see Northern Black Korhaan and several Kori Bustards. Checking in we can’t help notice the grounds are full of hornbills and we see three species: Monteiro’s , African Grey and Yellow-billed. Other birds include Camaroptera, Buffalo-weaver, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Ostrich and lots of Helmeted Guineafowl around the water hole. A Steenbok enters the scene as the light falls too.

One of the features of Toko Lodge is opportunity to take a drive through the scrub after dark. So after another delicious Namibian meal (kudu stew!) we get ready for our night drive. Loading up into one purpose built safari van we head off into the night with our driver and guide Nico. Joe and Darren both have lamps so three beams of light sweep the scrub and grasses. We are looking for the tell-tale reflection of light from animal eyes and don’t have to wait too long to find some Steenbok. Further along we find our first owl of the night with a beautifully marked White-faced Scops on top of a tree. As the name implies it has the most beautiful black and white markings with a white face and piercing orange eyes. A star bird!

Next we come across another bird on top of a tree – this time a roosting Secretray Bird – Nico says it has its nest in the tree, so better leave it in peace. Next, Nico spots some Giraffes resting in the grass but even though they are sitting their long necks give them away. Further along is the second owl of the night – a large Spotted Eagle Owl, followed quickly by a group of Kudu. Then Joe finds a African Marsh Owl that drops in the grass and shows well. Across the open areas we can see Springbok and Burchell’s Zebras, albeit at a distance. Again, some way ahead of the vehicle, an Aardwolf scurries across the track and quickly disappears. Then Joe picks up yellow eye shine in a low bush – a Small-spotted Genet. We drive nearer and the animal remains in the tree so we walk and get a better look – a fantastic lithe and slinky animal!

More giraffe move through the bushes and then we find an unusual critter – three Springhares are leaping across the grass. A sort of cross between a rabbit and a kangaroo! As we get back to the lodge we see another nibbling at the well watered grass in the yard. What a great night excursion.

Day 999:9::: After the rigours of the day before, we opt for a lazy breakfast at 8 o’clock. The dust from the previous day has gone and we can see far in the distance over plains and rolling wooded hills. We can see Ostrich, Springbok and Plain’s Zebra afar but Marilyn spots some Ruppell’s Parrots coming to the bird baths much closer, in front.

After eating we drive to the foot of a series of rocky hills where Nico has seen a couple of new species – Rockrunner and Hartlaub’s Francolin. It is still windy and we fail with these but have a nice morning wandering in the bush clocking some good birds: Lilac-breased Roller, Tawny, Booted and African Hawk Eagles, and White-tailed Shrike. At the empty camp site where there is a water tank there are lots of small birds with Red-billed Queleas, Red-eyed Bul-buls, Black-throated Canaries, White-browed Sparrow-weavers, Violet-eared Waxbills, Chestnut Weaver and both Cinnamon-breasted and Golden-breasted Buntings.

It’s time to leave Toko lodge so we load up and say our goodbyes. For Sarah and Hilary the mix of the night drive and the walkabout in the bush makes Toko lodge hard to beat and it is their place-of-the-trip.

The road to Etosha is much faster, being tarmaced most of the way, so we make good time stopping here and there for roadside Giraffe and Warthogs. Our roadside lunch spot is by another livestock water tank and it brings in the birds. Marilyn spots a Pearl-spotted Owlet being mobbed by bul-buls. Other birds include Black-throated Canaries, and both Violet-eared and Black-faced Waxbills. Finally we arrrive at Toshari lodge close to the south gate of Etosha. The friendly manager William welcomes us and gets us to our rooms…eventually.

Day 1010:::: We are keen to get into Etosha National Park so go for the earliest possible breakfast and we are not the only ones. Many people are scheduled for a game drive and a fleet of jeeps are ready to depart at 6.30am. We are packed and ready at 6.45am and drive the twenty or so minutes to Etosha’s south Andersson Gate. There’s a small queue and after niceties we are in, and the expectation is palpable.

Within minutes a small group of Burchell’s Zebras are crossing the road from right to left and we can check out those stripes. They move into the scrubby woodland and out of sight so we move on to the first of many waterholes at Ombika. We can see Blue Wildebeest and our first Black-faced Impalas. The same herd of zebras enter from the trees to drink at the water and we pinch ourselves that we are in Etosha witnessing the attraction of its famed waterholes.

We choose a track that weaves eastwards and in the first clearing we get our closest views to-date of Black-backed Jackals – three are on show interacting with each other. Only a short drive away there is another even more special treat… two young male Lions are resting in the short grass. Princes in repose and we can’t believe our luck. We can examine them so closely and note that they are both collared animals and part of research programmme in the National Park. It takes nothing away from he splendour of the sight. Etosha is already living up to its billing.

And the wonders keep coming: we get close looks at elegant Giraffes, beautiful Lilac-breasted Rollers, smart male Black Korhaans and Pale-chanting Goshawks. Then, as the track takes us through dense mopane scrub, at the base of one tree on the left is a large area of disturbed earth… and there are clouds of dust being thrown up by the culprits… two large Honey Badgers are at work foraging for termites and creating a mess, as well as providing a wildlife spectacle. Fork-tailed Drongos are perched nearby looking for tit-bits.

Further, at Olifantsbad waterhole we arrive as a huge Martial Eagle lands on a dead tree in front – impressive! Several Kudus, Impala and a lone Red Hartebeeste are gathered and are a little nervous of such a powerful bird. Nearby, is a rest stop where we can use the ‘facilities’ and discusss the mornings viewing over a snack and a friendly hornbill. Then its onwards, working our way west to one of the principal centres of Etosha at Okaukuejo.

Here is one of the largest waterholes in the park and we watch groups of Oryx, Kudu, Springbok, Giraffes and Burchell’s Zebra coming into drink as well as a single Warthog. We are going to like it here. Joe gets the keys for our chalets and we disappear to get unpacked for our one night stay. That is, we disappear briefly. Within ten minutes or so the stars of the afternoon appear - a wonderful herd of African Elephants. For those who have never seen these amazing animals in the wild it is a quintessential and even emotional scene. Mothers, smaller males and young, all troop along the edge of the water then start to drink. After quenching their thirst they start bathing, then go in for a bout of dust-bathing to condition the skin. It’s as if they were using (very liberally!) talcum powder after their baths. What a wonderful sight! We watch, enthralled for half-an-hour or so before they wander off in an orderly fashion (and we can’t help but hum Oh, The Aim of Our Patrol from Jungle Book).

There’s still an hour-and-a-half before the gates to the compound are closed so we venture out for a drive. Mark and Pat are in fine form and spot a difficult- to-see species on the left as both vans pass some bushes: a large shaggy-coated dog-like animal is foraging around. It’s a Brown Hyena – an animal that is seldom seen in daylight and we can tell by Joe’s reaction that we’ve struck Etosha gold. Another first!

Next is a single, large bull Elephant next to the road and it’s a real pleasure to study it so closely. Its tough wrinkled hide is a landscape in itself. Further on are bushes with birds: Kalahari Scrub-robin, Namaqua Sandgrouse and Marico Flycatcher. Then Mark spots another dog-like animal in a depression in the ground. We stop and reverse and all is revealed – an Aardwolf and this time there is good light and we can all see it. Fantastic!

It has been a productive evening but the gates to the camp close at 5.30pm so we start the drive back. After a meal, accompanied with very approachable Black-backed Jackals, we all wander down to the floodlit waterhole. Unbelievably there is already a Black Rhino there but it quickly disappears before we all see it. It will return we’re sure. The wait is not too long before out of the dark another Rhino enters. When it reaches the water the reflections from the ripples in the water create a banded pattern across its skin.

Next, a lone Spotted Hyena wanders across the scene but it is reluctant to come to the water’s edge and disappears after a short while. Then more Rhinos enter – an incredible five Rhinos at once come to the water. There is some antagonism between two in particular and these continue with mock jousting for a long time. We watch for ages before our gaze is diverted to the left by the sound of stones and boulders moving. Here comes the cavalry! A chain of twenty-five Elephants are marching to the water with the large dominant bull bringing up the rear. There are several small young animals in the group and they are soon right in front of us. The show plays out in front for an hour or so, and we finally call it a day at 11.45pm.

Day 1111:::: Our early morning excursion at 6.30am is north to the pan rim. We’ve only gone a short distance when we come across Giraffes next to the road in the early morning light. Next, a lone Elephant allows us a close look, then two Red-necked Falcons put on a show, with one, first in the road then flying to join a second bird in a dead tree. To our delight the Aardwolf that we saw yesterday, is still in the same area but this time we have two animals at an obvious den site. We get fantastic looks at these unusual animals in beautiful morning light. Then a third forces itself up and surprises the first two, so they run off leaving the ears and nose from the shy third animal. What a start to the day!

Next, we see two charming Bat-eared Foxes walking in the short bushes, and they even start coming closer to vans – our best looks! We hurry back for breakfast pausing to admire two cute Yellow Mongooses close to a Ground Squirrel.

After eating and then loading up the vans we set off east on the track that weaves along the south edge of Etosha Pan. We drive slowly along admiring the many animals on the way, pausing first at Newbrownii waterhole where lots of Springbok, Oryx and Impala are gathered. There are also Ostriches coming to drink which are fun to watch.

Further along we turn off to Homob, stopping at the junction where a stunning Martial Eagle is in a tree and it has a prey item in its talons – no amount of scrutiny with scopes and bins can help identify the dead mammal! At the scenic waterhole there are several Kudu coming to drink with lots more Springbok and a few Giraffes. There are also waterbirds on show as there is a muddy foreshore and a reedy island. We see Egyptian Goose, Wood Sandpiper, Common Moorhen and African Jacana amongst others. The track continues hugging the south side of the pan where there are good numbers of Blue Wildebeeste and we stop here and there to watch these and also groups of birds: at Sueda there are two close Secretary Birds and near Salvadora we find Namaqua Sandgrouse with chicks.

Our last stop for the morning is at Rietfontein which offers another scenic waterhole with lots of game and birds to sift through. As well as Three-banded Plover, Blacksmith’s Lapwing and African Jacana, Joe finds a sleeping Spotted Hyena resting in amongst the rocks and fallen trees. Reaching Halali we arrive in time for a late lunch and while we wait for our toasties we can admire a roosting African Scops Owl in a nearby tree!

Afterwards we check-in to our new accommodation (some get the honeymoon suite!) then it’s a quick turn around for the late afternoon shift. Our route takes us around a loop across Halali Plains with a good collection of game on view (including distant Elephants) as well as Steenbok, Secretary Birds and Lilac-breasted Rollers in fantastic light. Towards the end of the loop Mark spots something crouched at the foot of a tree – he’s confident it’s a cat so we stop and reverse… there to our right is the most beautiful Caracal catching the last of the golden evening light. Holy tufted ears!!!

We arrive back at Halali within minutes of the imminent gate closure – phew what a day! But even then its not over for the wildlife viewing.. after an evening meal we walk to the floodlit waterhole for the night shift. We arrive with several other specators and there is already a Black Rhino drinking. Wow! Jackals are scurrying around and we later see two Spotted Hyens emerge from the dark. All the while there are roars from Lions and it’s not too long before a female walks into view to drink from the waterhole. Next, a second lioness appears, then a third. There is the unmistakable odour of rotting flesh coming from the left and we learn that there is a dead Elephant a couple of hundred yards away in the darkness. This has attracted the Lions to feast on the carrion and eventually a large male appears to wander over to the water. The grand finale is when two more males appear with another female – seven Lions are on view and settling in for the night. What an end to another incredible day in Etosha.

Day 1212:::: Our early morning drive is north to Halali Plains and the southern edge of the pan. We drive by Springbok, Wildebeeste and Zebra groups before a single Honey Badger on the left attracts our attention. When we stop we can also see that there are two more badgers on the righthand side and these are getting closer to the road. They are varied in the strength of markings of the coat with a more brilliant younger animal upstaging a more muted coloured mature animal. Further on, two Black Rhinos are working the bushes on the left, but difficult to see well. Back at Rietfontein waterhole we are in for a treat as there is a family of Lions present. Two cubs are clambering amongst rocks under the watchful eye of a lioness, while further to the right is a magnificently maned male. Travelling back to Halali we see two Bateleur eagles – first, a well marked adult and then a brown, but just as distinctively shaped, immature bird.

After breakfast we take a walk around the grounds of Halali lodge in an effort to see some birds of the mopane woodlands. There are a mix of birds with Pearl-spotted Owlet, Damara Hornbills, Bru-brus, White-crowned Shrike, Groundscraper Thrushes and red-billed Violet Wood-hoopoes. We walk to the waterhole that looks completely different in the daylight. Kudu and an Oryx visits and there are bushes with small birds including Shaft-tailed and Long-tailed Paradise Wydahs.

We load the vans and leave Halali driving east through the more wooded area of the park. A Purple Roller is perched on the left offering a nice comparison with the commoner Lilac-breasted Roller a little further along. Soon after we take a left turn towards the waterhole at Goas and as we approach we can see a large herd of Elephants are on the move. We can see the well worn path they are embarked on and park the vans where they will pass. And along they come, right in front! More are coming to the waterhole as the first group leaves and after watching some close zebras we take up position to watch the Great Elephant Water Show. Its wonderful to witness as thirty to forty animals in two successive groups wallow in the mud, moving to cleaner deeper water to partially submerge themselves. There is lots of spraying water and mud and a little rolling about and we can’t help but speculate that they are enjoying themselves. There are lots of cameras clicking and videos taken and the whole experience is something we all will never forget – a trip highlight for sure. From Goas, we drive east towards Namutoni. There are lots of animals across the plains and we stop here and there to take in some of the more unusual: close Double-banded Coursers and Spike-heeled Larks. At Namutoni we have a late lunch, watching the friendly Banded Mongooses that are scurrying around the tables. Crimson-breasted Shrikes and Go-away Birds are in the grounds amongst others and there is time for a quick look at the old fort and well appointed waterhole.

The late afternoon drive is the last opportunity to drive around Etosha so we take a short loop north on a track that skirts the eastern pan. A Warthog, more Wildebeeste, Giraffe and Springbok are on show and close to the track we can watch a few birds including Pied Babblers. While we are watching a Rattling Cisticola in a bush, a rusty coloured Slender Mongoose wanders along the stony bank.

At Groot Okevi there is a small waterhole where we park and watch for animals. Birds in the bushes include Kalahari Scrub-robin, Emerald-spotted Wood-dove, Violet-eared and Blue Waxbills. Finally, a lone dark coloured Giraffe comes in to the small pool to drink. Along the final stretch of the track adjacent to the salt pan, a Spotted Hyena gives us our best looks at this characterful species.

Finally, we have to leave Etosha through the eastern Von Lindequist Gate but it’s a short distance to our guest accomodation at the luxury Mokuti lodge. Very nice too!

Day 1313:::: Early morning around the plush grounds of Mokuti Lodge is a relaxed affair, though there are still new birds to add to the list. Around the car park is one tree in blossom that is attracting birds including Carp’s Tit, Burnt-necked Eremomela, Grey-headed Sparrows and a Yellow-bellied Greenbul. Joe mimics a Pearl-spotted Owlet hoping to attract more small birds in to mob a predator and he draws in a owlet! Both Marico and White-bellied Sunbirds join in the mobbing, and other species include Red-eyed Bulbuls and Go-away birds.

Our path takes us by the well appointed Reptile Park and we can’t resist a look at the live exhibits – wonderful (and safe!) looks at Puff Adders, Spitting Cobras and Boomslangs. Back on the birding loop we add Long-billed Combrec, Yellow-breasted Apalis, White-crested Helmet-shrikes, Black-faced Babbler and Black-backed Puffback.

Soon after breakfast it is time to leave and start the journey south. The road is tarmaced and quick – a little too quick in places as we come across a speed cop. He wants to fine us but then offers ‘a compromise’. The less said about that the better.

We soon reach the town of Otjiwarongo where, following the recommendations of the fuel pump attendant, we find the C’est Si Bon restaurant for lunch with the macaws. The road to Waterberg is marked in lots of places by lots of Warthogs, some in family groups, though every time we pause they quickly scurry into the brush with their tails erect, like the antennae of radio controlled toys. As we approach the Waterberg Plateau the landscape becomes more impressive. The steep escarpment walls and flat-topped table land reminds us of the setting for The Lost World. At one point we can view the highland across a clearing with Hartebeest and Secretary Birds. The final section of road switches to a sandy track and we spot roadside Bradfield’s Hornbill and Steenbok.

We eventually arrive at Waterberg Rest Camp, where we smartly check-in then enjoy a late afternoon stroll with lots of great looks at the several confiding Dik-diks and a Grey-backed Camaroptera. Alpine Swifts are gathering around the cliffs above us and we can make out the smaller shapes of Bradfields Swifts. A White-browed Scrub-robin is in full voice (though difficult to see) and the Baboons are sounding off as they choose their rock ledges where they will spend the night.

Day 1414:::: It’s our last morning and we opt for a pre-breakfast walk around the camp ground at Waterberg. The White-browed Scrub Robin that eluded us yesterday makes an appearance but prize for star birds musy go to two Verraux’s Eagles that are sat on their nest on the escarpment. One flies a few hundred feet along and perches on a broken tree stump while the other moves and shows off the crisp white necklace mark on the base of the nape. Beautiful!

After breakfast we drive back towards Windhoek through sweeping landscapes of acacia scrub with roadside warthogs, hornbills, Black-shouldered Kites and a superb Augur Buzzard – the two hundredth bird species no less!

After picking up our driver and fuel in Windhoek we finally check in at the airport for our flights to Johannesurg. At Joburg we say our final farewells to Joe who has shown and taught us so much about the nature of Namibia - what an amazing trip with so many highlights.

And so to the final long flight to London..

Day 1515: Arrive at Heathrow for last goodbyes and the promise to do it again - Kruger 2017?

Birdy Top Ten 1 Secretary Bird 2 Flamingos in their thousands 3= Crimson-breasted Shrike 3= Martial Eagle 3= Lilac-breasted Roller 6= White-faced Scops Owl 6= Marico and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds 6= Violet-eared Waxbill 6= Go-away Bird

Mammal Top Ten 1 Elephant 2 Aardwolf 3 Honey Badger 4 Black Rhino 5= Zebra 5= Brown Hyena 5= Southern Giraffe 8 Cape Fur Seal in their thousands 9 Oryx 10 Lion

Place of the Trip The choice reflects the diversity of Namibia: from the red dunes of the Namib around Sossusvlei and the wild shores of Cape Cross, to the rustic charm of Toko Lodge. Every place has its own magic but one above others captivated us all – Etosha.

Magic Moment So many to choose from with the raucous spectacle of Cape Cross and the Lions at Rietfontein waterhole. Yet a clear favourite emerged: who will ever forget the parade of Elephants at the Goas and their high spirits and frolicking in the waterhole and the mud. Etosha magic!

BIRDS Little Grebe Tachybaptusruficollis Black-necked Grebe Podicepsnigricollis Cape Gannet Moruscapensis Reed Cormorant Phalacrocoraxafricanus White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocoraxlucidus Cape Cormorant Phalacrocoraxcapensis Great White Pelican Pelecanusonocrotalus Grey Heron Ardeacinerea Black-headed Heron Ardeamelanocephala Little Egret Egrettagarzetta Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticoraxnycticorax Marabou Stork Leptoptiloscrumeniferus Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterusruber Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor African Spoonbill Plataleaalba Hamerkop Scopus umbretta African Sacred Ibis Threskiornisaethiopicus Egyptian Goose Alopochenaegyptiaca South African Shelduck Tadornacana Cape Teal Anascapensis Red-billed Teal Anaserythrorhyncha White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Cape Vulture Gyps coprotheres Lappet-faced Vulture Torgostracheliotus African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetusvocifer Bateleur Terathopiusecaudatus Black-chested Snake-Eagle Circaetuspectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetuscinereus Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus Martial Eagle Polemaetusbellicosus Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk Melieraxcanorus Gabar Goshawk Melieraxgabar Black-shouldered Kite Elanuscaeruleus Rock Kestrel Falco rupicolis Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera Peregrine Falco peregrinus Common Ostrich Struthiocamelus Orange River Francolin Scleroptilalevaillantoides Red-billed Spurfowl Pternistisadspersus Helmeted Guineafowl Numidameleagris Common Moorhen Gallinulachloropus African Jacana Actophilonisafricanus Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius Ludwig's Bustard Neotisludwigii Kori Bustard Ardeotiskori Northern Black Korhaan Afrotisafraoides Rüppell'sKorhaan Eupodotisrueppellii African Black Oystercatcher Haematopusmoquini Black-winged Stilt Himantopushimantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostraavosetta Grey Plover Pluvialissquatarola Kittlitz's Plover Charadriuspecuarius Three-banded Plover Charadriustricollaris Chestnut-banded Plover Charadriuspallidu White-fronted Plover Charadriusmarginatus Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellusarmatus Crowned Lapwing Vanelluscoronatus Bar-tailed Godwit Limosalapponica Whimbrel Numeniusphaeopus Wood Sandpiper Tringaglareola Sanderling Calidrisalba Ruddy Turnstone Arenariainterpres Spotted Thick-knee Burhinuscapensis Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilusafricanus Burchell's Courser Cursoriusrufus Kelp Gull Larusdominicanus Hartlaub's Gull Larushartlaubii Swift Tern Sterna bergii Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis Caspian Tern Sterna caspia NamaquaSandgrouse Pteroclesnamaqua Double-banded Sandgrouse Pteroclesbicinctus Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Laughing Dove Streptopeliasenegalensis Cape Turtle-Dove Streptopeliacapicola Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turturchalcospilos Namaqua Dove Oenacapensis Feral Pigeon Columba livia Rüppell's Parrot Poicephalusrueppellii Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornisroseicollis Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoidesconcolor African Marsh Owl Asiocapensis African Scops-Owl Otussenegalensis Southern White-faced Scops-Owl Ptilopsusgranti Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidiumperlatum African Palm-Swift Cypsiurusparvus Alpine Swift Tachymarptismelba Bradfield's Swift Apusbradfieldi White-backed Mousebird Coliuscolius Red-faced Mousebird Urocoliusindicus Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Meropshirundineus Lilac-breasted Roller Coraciascaudatus Purple Roller Coraciasnaevius Monteiro's Hornbill Tockusmonteiri Red-billed Hornbill Tockuserythrorhynchus Damara Hornbill Tockusdamarensis Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockusleucomelas Bradfield's Hornbill Tockusbradfieldi African Grey Hornbill Tockusnasutus Violet Wood-Hoopoe Phoeniculusdamarensis Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastuscyanomelas Acacia Pied Barbet Tricholaemaleucomelas Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campetheraabingoni Eastern Clapper Lark [apiata] fasciolata Sabota Lark Calendulaudasabota Dune Lark Calendulaudaerythrochlamys Gray's Lark Ammomanopsisgrayi Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanesalbofasciata Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilaudasubcoronata Grey-backed Finchlark Eremopterixverticalis Red-capped Lark Calandrellacinerea Stark's Lark Spizocorysstarki Banded Martin Ripariacincta Pearl-breasted Swallow Hirundodimidiate South African Cliff Swallow Hirundospilodera Rock Martin Hirundofuligula Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurusadsimilis Cape Crow Corvuscapensis Pied Crow Corvusalbus Cape Penduline-Tit Anthoscopusminutus Carp's Tit Parus carpi Southern Pied Babbler Turdoidesbicolor Black-faced Babbler Turdoidesmelanops African Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotusnigricans Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichlaflaviventris KarooThrush Turdussmithi Short-toed Rock-Thrush Monticolabrevipes Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichlalitsipsirupa Familiar Chat Cercomelafamiliaris Karoo Chat Cercomelaschlegelii Tractrac Chat Cercomelatractrac Mountain Wheatear Oenanthemonticola Anteating Chat Myrmecocichlaformicivora White-browed Scrub-Robin Cercotrichasleucophrys Kalahari Scrub-Robin Cercotrichaspaean Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomelaicteropygialis Burnt-necked Eremomela Eremomelausticollis African Reed-Warbler Acrocephalusbaeticatus Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaropterabrevicaudata Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler Parisomasubcaeruleum Long-billed Crombec Sylviettarufescens Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalisflavida Rattling Cisticola Cisticolachiniana Black-chested Prinia Priniaflavicans Chat Flycatcher Bradornisinfuscatus Marico Flycatcher Bradornismariquensis PriritBatis Batispririt Cape Wagtail Motacillacapensis African Pipit Anthuscinnamomeus Long-billed Pipit Anthussimilis Crimson-breasted Shrike Laniariusatrococcineus Bokmakierie Telophoruszeylonus White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdustorquatus Brubru Nilausafer Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopuscubla White-crested Helmet-Shrike Prionopsplumatus Common Fiscal Laniuscollaris Southern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalusanguitimens Pale-winged Starling Onychognathusnabouroup Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornisnitens Burchell's Starling Lamprotornisaustralis Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitrasenegalensis Dusky Sunbird Cinnyrisfuscus Marico Sunbird Cinnyrismariquensis White-bellied Sunbird Cinnyristalatala House Sparrow Passer domesticus Great Sparrow Passer motitensis Cape Sparrow Passer melanurus Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornisniger White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepassermahali Sociable Weaver Philetairussocius Southern Masked-Weaver Ploceusvelatus Chestnut Weaver Ploceusrubiginosus Red-billed Quelea Queleaquelea Long-tailed Paradise Whydah Vidua paradise Shaft-tailed Whydah Viduaregia Black-faced Waxbill Estrildaerythronotos Common Waxbill Estrildaastrild Violet-eared Waxbill Granatinagranatina Blue Waxbill Uraeginthusangolensis Red-headed Finch Amadinaerythrocephala Scaly-feathered Finch Sporopipessquamifrons Green-winged Pytilia Pytiliamelba Black-throated Canary Serinusatrogularis Yellow Canary Serinusflaviventris White-throated Canary Serinusalbogularis Lark-like Bunting Emberizaimpetuani Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberizatahapisi Cape Bunting Emberizacapensis Golden-breasted Bunting Emberizaflaviventris

MAMMALS DamaraDik-Dik Madoquadamarensis Gemsbok (Southern Oryx) Oryx gazella Red Hartebeest Alcelaphusbuselaphus Blue Wildebeest Connochaetestaurinus Black-faced Impala Aepycerosmelampuspetersi Klipspringer Oreotragusoreotragus Greater Kudu Tragelaphusstrepsiceros Springbok Antidorcasmarsupialis Steenbok Raphiceruscampestris Burchell's Zebra Equusburchellii Hartmann's Mountain Zebra Equus zebra hartmannae Honey Badger Mellivoracapensis Lion Panthera Leo Caracal Caracal caracal African Elephant LoxodontaAfricana Black Rhinoceros Dicerosbicornis Black-backed Jackal Canismesomelas Bat-eared Fox Otocyonmegalotis Cape Fox Vulpeschama Small-spotted Genet Genettagenetta Aardwolf Proteluscristatus Giraffe Giraffacamelopardalis Scrub Hare Lepussaxatilis Springhare Pedetescapensis Brown Hyena Parahyaenabrunnea Spotted Hyena Crocutacrocuta Rock Hyrax Procaviacapensis Banded Mongoose Mungosmungo Slender Mongoose Galerellasanguinea Suricate (Meerkat) Suricatasuricatta Yellow Mongoose Cynictispenicillata Chacma Baboon Papioursinus Cape Fur Seal Arctocephaluspusillus Striped Tree Squirrel Funisciuruscongicus Common Tree Squirrel Sciuruscarolinensis Cape Ground Squirrel Xerusinauris Bushveld Elephant Shrew Elephantulus intufi Striped Mouse Rhabdomyspumilio Acacia (Black -tailed)Tree Rat Thallonys nigricauda Warthog Phacochoerusafricanus

CETACEANS Heaviside's Dolphin Cephalorhynchusheavisidii Humpback Whale MegapteraNovaenglandii

BUTTERFLIES (thanks Max and Christine) Queen Purple-tip Bushveld Purple-tip Small Elfin Zebra White Brown-veined White Black-striped Hairtail Foxy Emperor African Migrant Doubleday’s Orange-tip Yellow Pansy African Monarch Speckled Sulphur-tip Small Orange-tip Topaz Arab Guineafowl Butterfly Painted Lady Banded Gold-tip Common Brown Playboy Common Blue

REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS Variable Skink Striped Skink Shovel-nosed Lizard Wedge-snouted Lizard Southern Ground Agama Namib Day Gecko African Mole Snake Western Olive Toad