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Namibia & : From the to the OKAVANGO A Tropical Birding Set Departure

September 5–20, 2015 Guide: Ken Behrens

All photos taken by Ken Behrens during this trip

TOUR SUMMARY

Our and northern Botswana tour has long been one of our most popular, and for good reason. The Namib escarpment and desert hold a suite of endemic that is shared only with adjacent . These include the handsome Hartlaub’s , taxonomic oddity Rockrunner, boldly pied White-tailed , and cryptic Dune . Farther north and east, the Okavango system holds a great wealth of birds, including two of the continent’s most wanted : White-backed Night- and Pel’s Fishing-. There is no better spot in for these scarce and shy birds. Although they expect the special birds, birders are often also surprised by this tour’s richness of mammals. is one of Africa’s great parks, and is at its best during the late dry season timing of this tour. The spectacle of thousands of big mammals crowding together for precious mouthfuls of water while trying to avoid the big predators that await in ambush, ranks among Earth’s great natural spectacles. And Etosha is just one of several sites on this trip that always have lots of mammals. But the real thing that makes tours in Namibia and Botswana special is not the specific birds and mammals that these countries hold,

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 but rather a magical quality to the landscapes of this part of the world. It’s hard to explain what it’s like to travel through this vast, wild, and largely “empty” country, but every visitor comes away with a special experience. Indeed, the landscape itself seems to be the most fascinating “character” encountered on this tour, and memories of sunset in the Namib Desert or the endless papyrus swamps of the Okavango, are likely to stay with you for a lifetime. To put it another way, I often tell people that “you would have White-backed Night-Heron roosting deep in a tangle in to actively hate nature not to enjoy a the Okavango of Botswana. tour in Namibia”! Sure, there are some tours which mainly appeal to keen birders with a specific set of targets in mind, but this is not one of them… with enchanting landscapes, excellent infrastructure, and a formidable lineup of marquee creatures, Namibia and Botswana are nearly impossible not to love, whether you’re a die-hard lister or a casual naturalist. On this tour, we recorded 363 species of birds, including all of the Namibian near-endemics, plus Pel’s Fishing-Owl, Marsh Owl, White-backed Night-Heron, African Skimmer, Orange River Francolin, Slaty Egret, and Rufous-bellied Heron. We also racked up 47 species of mammals including , , , and Black Rhino. We didn’t neglect either, and identified 14 species, including both Rock and Water Monitors and some huge Nile Crocodiles. Our tour started with a bang on the first morning, even before sunrise, when we lured in a pair of Orange River directly behind our guesthouse. Seeing this scarce species was a great start! Because everybody had arrived early, we had a full day to around Windhoek, which is a surprisingly birdy city, situated where the Kalahari meets the Namib Escarpment. Dry scrub held species like Pearl-spotted Owlet, Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Monteiro’s ,

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Cardinal Woodpecker, Brubru, Southern (Cape) Penduline-, , Burnt-neck , White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Violet-eared Waxbill, Kalahari Scrub-Robin, Pin-tailed and Shaft- tailed Whydahs, and Crimson-breasted Shrike, Namibia’s national bird. On a small rock escarpment, we found a pair of Rockrunner, a special species that can be hard to find at this season. Wetlands held a variety of shorebirds and ducks including Southern Pochard, Hottentot Teal, and White-backed Duck, plus various and egrets.

Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike) is Namibia’s national bird.

From the central highlands, we struck southwest across the escarpment, and towards the Namib Desert. Along the way, we took in some spectacular landscapes that are almost empty of any evidence of humans. The top bird of this part of the tour was Herero Chat. We enjoyed 30 minutes with a pair at only a few yards’ distance, a remarkable experience of a normally shy species. Other birds on the way down into the Namib included African Hawk-, Common Scimitar-bill, Lilac-breasted and Rufous-crowned Rollers, Rufous-eared Warbler, , Karoo Scrub-Robin, Chat Flycatcher, Bokmakierie, Southern Pied Babbler, a of Lappet-faced , and many Southern Pale Chanting-Goshawks.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Below Spreetzhoogte Pass, we entered the Namib Desert proper, a vast plain that just gets drier as you approach the coast. Here we marveled at the stark landscapes, and the sight of desert-adapted creatures like , Southern , and Rueppell’s Korhaan (). At the end of a long drive, we finally arrived in the coastal town of

Walvis Bay, a strangely Hartlaub’s Gull is abundant along the coast. incongruous place that is cool and dry despite being on the coast, quite the opposite of the average coastal city! We enjoyed a full day of exploring the Namib coastline, a bizarre mix of sand dunes, gravel plains, and productive wetlands. A short walk into some tawny dunes turned up Namibia’s only political endemic: the handsome Dune Lark. The Walvis Bay was teeming with flamingoes and other waterbirds, including a good selection of shorebirds. Cape Fur Seals bodysurfed in the huge waves, while Cape Gannets flew by well offshore and Kelp and Hartlaub’s Gulls milled about. Thousands of Cape Cormorants nested on a guano platform, and feed in the rich coastal waters. On both of our nights in Swakopmund, we enjoyed excellent seafood dinners in this charming seaside town. As usual, the locally caught Kingklip fish was

Damara Red-billed Hornbill is one of a suite of fabulous! Namibian near-endemics.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Leaving the coast, we struck back inland, to search out the remaining Namibian escarpment endemics. Our first stop was the iconic mountain of Spitzkoppe, where we spotted a few new birds including Verreaux’s Eagle, Augur Buzzard, and Layard’s Tit-babbler. The Erongo Mountains are the richest area for Namibia near-endemics, so

Dusky is the common sunbird in central Namibia. our time there was highly productive. Along dry riverbeds, we located Violet Woodhoopoe, Bearded Woodpecker, Gabar Goshawk, Rueppell’s Parrot, and Damara Red-billed Hornbill. Meanwhile, rocky and scrubby habitat held a different suite of specialties like Carp’s Tit, White-tailed Shrike, Rosy-faced Lovebird, Cape and Cinnamon- breasted Buntings, and Hartlaub’s Francolin. On the mammal front, there were Klipspringer, Greater , and Dassie Rat. The stunning scenery of ancient granite mountains and fantastic lodges also contributed to a wonderful stay in the Erongo Mountains. Having virtually cleaned up on the Namibian near-endemics, our next destination was Etosha National Park, one of Africa’s great parks. Here we soaked in the spectacle of vast numbers of big mammals crowded around the waterholes that provide the only source of water at this time of the year, late in the dry season. Multiple Lion sightings were a highlight as and “Black-faced” line up for a precious drink of water in Etosha National Park.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 always. Perhaps the best was of two magnificent males in the prime of life staking out a waterhole right at the edge of the vast . We also enjoyed fantastic Leopard and Cheetah sightings; the former coming in to drink at a waterhole and the latter feeding on a freshly-killed Springbok. Despite being dry and dusty, there are plenty of birds in Etosha as well. , , Double-banded Courser, , and various including Pink- billed, Eastern Clapper, and both Chestnut-backed and Gray-backed Sparrowlarks, walked across the dry plains. Huge flocks of birds like Red-headed Finch, and Great and Southern Gray-headed Sparrows, circulated around the waterholes, hunted by various raptors. As we moved east in the park, we passed from the open plains around Okakuejo through vast woodland, before finally enjoying the dense mixed woodland around Namutoni, where there were species like Damara Dik-dik, Gray Go-away-bird, and White-bellied Sunbird.

Gray-backed Sparrowlark is a good match for the colors of dry season Etosha.

A long drive took us through vast flatlands, into a part of Namibia that is much more like typical Africa than the vast cattle ranches and anachronistic villages of central Namibia. Here we settled into our lodge on the banks of the Kavango River, a perfect place to begin exploring the Okavango, a much richer ecosystem than those elsewhere in Namibia, albeit with lower

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 endemism. The riverside woodlands were pumping with birds, most of which were new for us, including beauties like Black-collared Barbet, Yellow-breasted , and (Swamp) Boubou. Away from the river are vast tracts of broadleaved woodland, which has a completely different character and largely distinct avifauna. Our major target here was Souza’s Shrike, which we easily located. Other fine sightings included Tinkling , Woodland Pipit, Striped Kingfisher, Rufous-bellied Tit, Green-backed Honeyguide, and Ovambo Sparrowhawk. On an afternoon boat trip, we explored the reedbeds and sand bars of the river itself, finding African Skimmer, Rock Pratincole, Chirping Cisticola, Slaty Egret, and dozens of other species of waterbirds. The main object of this boat trip, and indeed our visit to this part of Namibia, is to visit

A Southern Carmine Bee-eater colony ranks among Africa’s top avian spectacles.

a Southern Carmine Bee-eater colony. Although it’s not well publicized, these bee-eater colonies along the Kavango River certainly rank among Africa’s great natural spectacles. There are hundreds of brilliant carmine-and-turquoise birds, forming a swirl of color and a hypnotic murmur of quiet calls. As the sun sets over the river to the west, the colors of the birds and the rich yellowish sand into which they dig their just become richer and more spectacular, until we reluctantly tear ourselves away for the boat ride back to the lodge.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 We spent most of a day exploring the wonderful Mahango Reserve, which lies on the border with Botswana. Here there were dozens of highlights, ranging from a with a freshly- caught , to a herd of Sable, one of Africa’s rarest and most beautiful antelope. The Kavango Plain

was teeming with birds as usual, African Skimmer is a mainly freshwater bird that nests on the

including Marabou , sand banks of the Kavango River.

Wattled Crane, and Long-toed Lapwing. A flock of Retz’s Helmetshrikes bombed through the riparian woodland, while raptors and vultures circled overhead. There are always startling numbers of new mammals in Mahango as well, such as Red Lechwe, Southern Reedbuck, Tsessebee, and Cape Buffalo. After a picnic lunch next to a massive, ancient baobab tree, we crossed into Botswana for the second half of our exploration of the Okavango system. By way of boat trips and easy walks, we sought out new species in the Okavango “Panhandle” of northern Botswana. Chief among these were two of Africa’s top birds, the Pel’s Fishing-Owl and White-backed Night-Heron, both of which we found easily. Nearby floodplains and sandbars held species like Comb Duck, Glossy Ibis, Water Thick-knee, and African Skimmer. Several flocks of Burchell’s passed

Long-toed Lapwing, an Okavango specialty. overhead, and we even spotted a lone

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 male drinking on a sand bar. Although we had already enjoyed good views of Pel’s Fishing-Owl, we were still greedy for more, so on our final morning in Botswana, we headed to another area where there had been recent sightings. After a bit of searching, we found a fabulous pair of these huge ginger , and watched and photographed them for over an hour. At the same time, we managed to turn up a handful of new species like Crested Barbet, Terrestrial Brownful, and White- browed Robin-Chat, though by now our checklist was rather well filled out!

Pel’s Fishing-Owl, one of the world’s largest owls, and perhaps the top Okavango bird.

Our journey back to Windhoek from the “Panhandle” was long, but was broken up by a surprising number of new bird sightings. Perhaps the best was a couple of Marsh Owls hunting over the Kavango floodplain at dawn. Others included White-backed and Cape Vultures devouring a dead donkey, a surprise Rufous-naped Lark, and a . On our final night we enjoyed a fabulous Chinese dinner and looked back on the myriad great sightings we had enjoyed in our 16 days in southwestern Africa. As always, I can’t wait to return to one of my favorite countries on earth!

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 ITINERARY

September 5 Windhoek, Namibia. Avis Dam and Gammons Sewage Works. September 6 Windhoek to Spreetzhoogte September 7 Spreetzhoogte to Swakopmund September 8 Swakopmund / Walvis Bay September 9 Swakopmund to Erongo Mountains September 10 Erongo Mountains September 11 Erongo to Etosha NP September 12-13 Etosha NP September 14 Etosha NP to Kavango September 15 Kavango September 16 Kavango to Okavango Panhandle, Botswana September 17 Okavango Panhandle September 18 Okavango Panhandle to Kavango, Namibia September 19 Kavango to Windhoek September 20 Departure from Windhoek

A Little Bee-eater on the Botswana leg of this trip.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 PHOTO GALLERY Follows tour’s chronology

Orange River Francolin, one of the hardest specialties to find, and one of our first birds on the tour!

Other Windhoek sightings included Southern African Ground Squirrel (left) and Black-chested Prinia (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Karoo Scrub-Robin (left) is a scarce bird in central Namibia, while African Red-eyed Bulbul (right) is very common.

Sightings on our guest farm near Spreetzhoogte Pass: Ground Agama (left) and Mountain Wheatear (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Epic scenery at Spreetzhoogte Pass, with sweeping views out into the Namib Desert.

Herero Chat, one of the rarest of Namibia’s near-endemic species.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

We had spectacular views of a pair of African Hawk- on the Namib escarpment.

The intricate beauty of the Sociable Weaver.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Southern Oryx thrive in the barren aridity of the Namib Desert.

Greater (left) and Lesser (right) Flamingoes are the star birds of Walvis Bay.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Dune Lark is Namibia’s only true endemic; the near-endemics are shared with southern Angola.

Walvis Bay is also one of Africa’s best shorebird spots. These are Pied Avocets.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Karoo Long-billed Lark posing nicely.

A trio of Rueppell’s Korhaans () in the Namib.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

The unmistakable ruddy granite of Spitzkoppe, Namibia’s most iconic mountain.

The in the Namib Desert are very pale.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Violet Woodhoopoe (left) and African Hoopoe (right) are both found along riverbeds in the Erongo region.

Monteiro’s Hornbill, a handsome near-endemic.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Pale-winged Starlings visit the water features and bird feeders at Erongo, which rank among Africa’s best.

This day-roosting Freckled Nightjar came as a welcome surprise.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Hartlaub’s Francolin (Spurfowl) is one of the top targets in the Erongo Mountains.

A Klipspringer, or “cliff jumper” in Afrikaans.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Rosy-faced Lovebird glowing in the early morning sun.

Rockrunner is one of the most charismatic Namibian near-endemics.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Namaqua Sandgrouse female (above) and male (below), a classic example of “cryptic gaudy!”

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

There are lots of birds in Etosha NP, from Spike-heeled Lark (left) to Black-chested -Eagle (right).

These two male were one of our top sightings in Etosha, a paradise for mammal-watching.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Yellow Mongoose of the pale form that predominates in Namibia.

Plain-striding Northern Black Korhaan (left) and Double-banded Courser (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

This Leopard appeared out of the mid-day haze for a long drink at a waterhole.

Big flocks of birds gather around Etosha’s waterholes. These are Red-headed Finches and Southern Gray-headed Sparrows.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Greater Kudu eye a waterhole warily before coming in for a drink.

Caspian Plover (left) is a long-distance migrant, while Swallow-tailed Bee-eater (right) is resident in Etosha.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Etosha is one of the last strongholds of the Black Rhino.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Bare-cheeked Babbler, a localized bird found in northern Namibia’s Mopane woodland.

A (left) and one of the small birds that it hunts, a Cape or Long-billed (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

A Cheetah, face red with blood from its Springbok kill.

A Springbok herd headed for water from one direction…

…while Red approach from the other.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

A large herd of African usually comes to drink at the Goas waterhole just before sunset.

A Kori Bustard strides across the parched dry season grasslands.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Two species with small global ranges: Black-faced Babbler (left) and Damara Dik-dik (right).

Masses of mammals at an Etosha waterhole.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Fork-tailed Drongo, one of the most widespread and adaptable African birds.

Broadleaved woodland specialties: Tinkling Cisticola (left) and Rufous-bellied Tit (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Kavango prizes: Violet-backed Starling (left) and rare Ovambo Sparrowhawk (right).

Souza’s Shrike is a rare and local resident of far northern Namibia.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Two different species of Pratincole along the Kavango River: Collared (above) and Rock (below).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

This Long-tailed Cormorant might have “bit off more than it can chew”!

Slaty Egret is a scarce species with a small range in the Okavango and central Africa.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

We spent a magical late afternoon at a colony of Southern Carmine Bee-eaters, one of Africa’s world-class natural spectacles, albeit one that few people know about.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

On the wing in northern Namibia: Pied Kingfisher (left) and Lanner (right).

An African Barred Owlet staring us down.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

A young Martial Eagle with a freshly caught Slender Mongoose.

More sightings from Mahango: Sable (left) and Brown Snake-Eagle (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

More Bee-eaters in the Okavango: Little (above) and White-fronted (below).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

An African Fish-Eagle rises from the river with talons full.

Little, Great, and Intermediate Egrets shoulder-to-shoulder for a great comparison view.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

White-headed (left) and Giant Kingfisher (right), both in Botswana.

The two common babbler species of the Okavango: Arrow-marked (left) and Hartlaub’s (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Wire-tailed Swallow, just one of many swallow species in the Okavango.

Banded Martin (left) and Holub’s Golden Weaver (right).

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

Pel’s Fishing-Owl is probably the top bird on this star-studded tour.

Terrestrial Brownbul (left) and (right) are part of a rich supporting cast.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015

White-rumped Swift (left) and Common Waxbill (right).

Back in Windhoek, we enjoyed watching a flock of White-backed Mousebirds in a bottlebrush.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 BIRD LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The Clements Checklist of the Birds of the World, including updates through 2015.

Struthionidae (Ostrich) Common Ostrich Struthio camelus Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) White-faced (Whistling-) Duck Dendrocygna viduata White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus Comb (Knob-billed) Duck (✪) Sarkidiornis melanotos Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca South African Shelduck Tadorna cana Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata Red-billed Duck (Teal) Anas erythrorhyncha Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota Cape Teal Anas capensis Southern Pochard (✪) Netta erythrophthalma Numididae (Guineafowl) Numida meleagris (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies) Crested Francolin Francolinus sephaena Orange River Francolin Francolinus levaillantoides Hartlaub's Francolin (Spurfowl) Francolinus hartlaubi Red-billed Francolin (Spurfowl) Francolinus adspersus Swainson's Francolin Francolinus swainsonii Podicipedidae (Grebes) Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Eared (Black-necked) Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Phoenicopteridae () Greater Phoenicopterus roseus Phoenicopterus minor Ciconiidae () Woolly-necked Stork (✪) Ciconia episcopus African Openbill (✪) Anastomus lamelligerus Leptoptilos crumeniferus Yellow-billed Stork (✪) Mycteria ibis Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets) Cape Gannet Morus capensis Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) Great (White-breasted) Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo (lucidus)

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus Crowned Cormorant Phalacrocorax coronatus Anhingidae (Anhingas) sAfrican Darter Anhinga rufa Pelecanidae () Great White Pelecanus onocrotalus Scopidae (Hamerkop) Hamerkop Scopus umbretta Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus Ardea cinerea Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Goliath Heron Ardea goliath Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Great (White) Egret Ardea alba Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret Mesophoyx intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Black Heron Egretta ardesiaca Slaty Egret Egretta vinaceigula Bubulcus ibis Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Rufous-bellied Heron Ardeola rufiventris Striated (Green-backed) Heron Butorides striata Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax White-backed Night-Heron Gorsachius leuconotus Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills) Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus (African) Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus African Spoonbill Platalea alba Sagittariidae (Secretary-bird) Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus Black (Yellow-billed) Kite (✚) Milvus migrans (aegyptius) African Fish-Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus Cape Griffon Gyps coprotheres Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Black-breasted (-chested) Snake-Eagle Circaetus pectoralis Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus Terathopius ecaudatus African Marsh-Harrier Circus ranivorus

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene) typus Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates Southern Pale Chanting-Goshawk Melierax canorus Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar Ovambo Sparrowhawk Accipiter ovampensis African Goshawk Accipiter tachiro Shikra Accipiter badius Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Aquila rapax Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Wahlberg's Eagle ✪ Aquila wahlbergi Booted Eagle ✚ ✪ Hieraaetus pennatus Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Otididae (Bustards) Kori Bustard kori Rueppell's Bustard (Korhaan) rueppellii Red-crested Bustard (Korhaan) Eupodotis ruficrista White-quilled Bustard (Northern Black Korhaan) Eupodotis afraoides Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) African Rail Rallus caerulescens Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra (African) Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio Eurasian (Common) Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Red-knobbed Coot Fulica cristata Gruidae (Cranes) Wattled Crane Bugeranus carunculatus Burhinidae (Thick-knees) Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers) African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets) Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) Long-toed Lapwing Vanellus crassirostris Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus (African) Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus Black-bellied (Grey) Plover ✚ Pluvialis squatarola Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Caspian Plover Charadrius asiaticus Common Ringed Plover ✚ Charadrius hiaticula Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus Jacanidae (Jacanas) African Jacana Actophilornis africana Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) Common Sandpiper ✚ Tringa hypoleucos Green Sandpiper ✚ Tringa ochropus Common Greenshank ✚ Tringa nebularia Marsh Sandpiper ✚ Tringa stagnatilis Whimbrel ✚ Numenius phaeopus Ruddy Turnstone ✚ Arenaria interpres Sanderling ✚ Calidris alba Little Stint ✚ Calidris minuta Curlew Sandpiper ✚ Calidris ferruginea Ruff ✚ Philomachus pugnax Turnicidae (Buttonquail) Small Buttonquail ✪ Turnix sylvaticus Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers) Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus Collared Pratincole ✚ Glareola pratincola Rock Pratincole ✪ Glareola nuchalis Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) Hartlaub's Gull Chroicocephalus hartlaubii Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Common Tern ✚ Sterna hirundo Great Crested (Swift) Tern Thalasseus bergii Sandwich Tern ✚ Thalasseus sandvicensis African Skimmer (✪) Rynchops flavirostris Pteroclidae (Sandgrouse) Pterocles namaqua Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus Burchell's Sandgrouse Pterocles burchelli (Pigeons and Doves) Rock Pigeon Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba Mourning Collared- (African Mourning) Dove Streptopelia decipiens Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove Streptopelia capicola Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Turtur chalcospilos Namaqua Dove Oena capensis African Green-Pigeon Treron calva Musophagidae (Turacos) Grey Go-away Bird Corythaixoides concolor

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Cuculidae () Coppery-tailed Coucal Centropus cupreicaudus Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Tytonidae (Barn-Owls) Tyto alba H Strigidae (Owls) African Scops-Owl Otus senegalensis Pel's Fishing-Owl Scotopelia peli Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum African Barred Owlet Glaucidium capense African Wood-Owl Strix woodfordi Marsh Owl Asio capensis Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies) Fiery-necked Nightjar (✪) Caprimulgus pectoralis H Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma Square-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus fossii Apodidae (Swifts) Alpine Swift Apus melba Bradfield's Swift Apus bradfieldi Little Swift Apus affinis White-rumped Swift (✪) Apus caffer African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus Coliidae (Mousebirds) White-backed Mousebird Colius colius Red-faced Mousebird Urocolius indicus Alcedinidae (Kingfishers) Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristata Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Meropidae (Bee-eaters) White-fronted Bee-eater Merops bullockoides Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundinaceus Southern Carmine Bee-eater ✪ Merops nubicoides Coraciidae (Rollers) Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller Coracias naevius Upupidae (Hoopoes) Eurasian (African) Hoopoe Upupa epops (africana) Phoeniculidae (Woodhoopoes and Scimitar-

bills) Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Violet Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus damarensis Common Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus cyanomelas Bucerotidae () Monteiro's Hornbill Tockus monteiri Southern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus rufirostris Damara Red-billed Hornbill Tockus damarensis Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas Bradfield's Hornbill Tockus bradfieldi African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus Lybiidae (African Barbets) Crested Barbet Trachyphonus vaillantii Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus () Pied Barbet Tricholaema leucomelas Black-collared Barbet Lybius torquatus Indicatoridae (Honeyguides) Green-backed Honeyguide Prodotiscus zambesiae Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor Picidae (Woodpeckers) Bennett's Woodpecker Campethera bennettii Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus Falconidae ( and Caracaras) Eurasian (Rock) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus (rupicolus) Falco rupicoloides Red-necked Falco chicquera Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus (✚) Falco peregrinus Psittaculidae (Old World Parrots) Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis roseicollis Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots) Meyer's Parrot Poicephalus meyeri Ruppell's Parrot Poicephalus rueppellii Platysteiridae (Wattle-eyes and Batises) Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Pririt Batis Batis pririt White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdus torquatus Vangidae (Vangas and Helmetshrikes) White (-crested) Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus Retz's Helmetshrike Prionops retzii Malaconotidae ( and Allies) Brubru Nilaus afer Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Gabon (Swamp) Boubou Laniarius bicolor Crimson-breasted Gonolek (Shrike) Laniarius atrococcineus Bokmakierie Telophorus zeylonus Sulphur (Orange-)breasted Telophorus sulfureopectus Grey-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti Laniidae () Souza's Shrike souzae Southern Fiscal Lanius collaris Magpie Shrike Corvinella melanoleuca (Southern) White-crowned Shrike anguitimens Oriolidae (Old World Orioles) African Black-headed Oriole Oriolus larvatus Dicruridae (Drongos) Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis (Crows, Jays, and Magpies) Cape Crow Corvus capensis Pied Crow Corvus albus Alaudidae (Larks) Rufous-naped Lark africana Eastern Clapper Lark Mirafra fasciolata Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota Fawn-colored Lark Calendulauda africanoides Dune Lark Calendulauda erythrochlamys Gray's Lark Ammomanopsis grayi Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciata Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata Chestnut-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix leucotis Grey-backed Sparrowlark Eremopterix verticalis Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Stark's Lark Spizocorys starki Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys conirostris Hirundinidae (Swallows) Plain (Brown-throated) Martin Riparia paludicola Banded Martin (✪) Riparia cincta Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula Barn Swallow ✚ Hirundo rustica White-throated Swallow ✪ Hirundo albigularis Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Pearl-breasted Swallow (✪) Hirundo dimidiata Greater Striped-Swallow ✪ Cecropsis cucullata Lesser Striped-Swallow Cecropsis abyssinica Rufous-chested (-breasted) Swallow ✪ Cecropsis semirufa Mosque Swallow Cecropsis senegalensis Paridae (Chickadees and Tits) Ashy Tit cinerascens

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Melaniparus Carp's Black Tit Melaniparus carpi Rufous-bellied Tit Melaniparus rufiventris Remizidae (Penduline-Tits) Southern (Cape) Penduline-Tit Anthoscopus minutus Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls) Yellow-bellied Greenbul Chlorocichla flaviventris Terrestrial Brownbul Phyllastrephus terrestris Black-fronted (African Red-eyed) Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus (tricolor) (African Warblers) Cape (Long-billed) Crombec Sylvietta rufescens Rockrunner Achaetops pycnopygius (Reed-Warblers and Allies) African Reed-Warbler baeticatus Greater Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus rufescens Lesser Swamp-Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Little Rush Warbler Bradypterus baboecala ( and Allies) Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida (Gray-) Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Rufous-eared Warbler Malcorus pectoralis Cisticola chiniana Gray (Tinkling) Cisticola Cisticola rufilatus Winding (Luapula) Cisticola Cisticola galactotes (luapula) Chirping Cisticola Cisticola pipiens Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Burnt-neck Eremomela Eremomela usticollis (Old World Warblers) Layard's Warbler (Tit-Babbler) Sylvia layardi Rufous-vented Warbler (Chestnut-vented Tit-Bab.) Sylvia subcaeruleum Zosteropidae (Yuhinas, White-eyes, and Allies) African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis Cape (Orange River) White-eye Zosterops p. pallidus Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes) Hartlaub's Babbler Turdoides hartlaubii Black-faced Babbler Turdoides melanops Southern Pied Babbler Turdoides bicolor Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii Bare-cheeked Babbler Turdoides gymnogenys Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers)

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus Chat Flycatcher Bradornis infuscatus Mariqua (Marico) Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis Southern Black Flycatcher pammelaina Ashy Flycatcher Muscicapa caerulescens H Gray Tit-Flycatcher Myoparus plumbeus H Karoo Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas coryphaeus Kalahari Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas paena Red-backed (White-browed) Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Herero Chat Namibornis herero White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Short-toed Rock-Thrush Monticola brevipes (African) Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Southern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac Cercomela familiaris Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe monticola Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) Groundscraper Thrush Psophocichla litsipsirupa Kurrichane Thrush Turdus libonyanus Sturnidae (Starlings) Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Cape Glossy Starling Lamprotornis nitens Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus Meve's Starling Lamprotornis mevesii Burchell's Starling Lamprotornis australis Sharp-tailed Starling Lamprotornis acuticaudus Violet-backed Starling (Amethyst; Plum-coloured) ✪ Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Pale-winged Starling Onychognathus nabouroup Buphagidae (Oxpeckers) Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorhynchus Nectariniidae ( and Spiderhunters) Collared Sunbird Hedidypna collaris Amethyst Sunbird amethystina Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird Cinnyris mariquensis Purple-banded Sunbird Cinnyris bifasciatus White-breasted (-bellied) Sunbird Cinniris talatala Dusky Sunbird Cinnyris fusca Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits) Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp African (Grassveld) Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus Woodland Pipit Anthus nyassae Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies) Lark-like Bunting Emberiza impetuani Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi Cape Bunting Emberiza capensis Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies) Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis Yellow Canary Serinus flaviventris White-throated Canary Serinus albogularis Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) House Sparrow Passer domesticus Great Rufous Sparrow Passer motitensis Passer melanurus Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Passer diffusus Yellow-throated Petronia Petronia superciliaris (Weavers and Allies) Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver niger Scaly Weaver (Scaly-feathered Finch) squamifrons White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Social (Sociable) Weaver Philetairus socius ocularis Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops Southern Brown-throated Weaver Ploceus xanthopterus Ploceus intermedius Southern Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus Ploceus cucullatus Ploceus rubiginosus Red-billed Quelea quelea (Southern) Red Bishop orix Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Grosbeak (Thick-billed) Weaver Amblyospiza albifrons (Waxbills and Allies) Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild Black-cheeked (-faced) Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Blue-breasted Cordonbleu (Blue Waxbill) Uraeginthus angolensis Violet-eared Waxbill Uraeginthus granatina Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala Brown Firefinch Lagonosticta nitidula Cut-throat (Finch) Amadina fasciata Red-headed Finch Amadina erythrocephala Viduidae (Whydahs) Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Eastern (Long-tailed) Paradise-Whydah Vidua paradisaea

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Shaft-tailed Whydah Vidua regia Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata

Southern Africa and Namibia / Angola shared endemics in bold Near-endemics in italics ✚ = boreal migrant ✪ = intra-African migrant ( ) = partial migrant

More Southern Carmine Bee-eaters… why not?!

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 MAMMAL LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature follow The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals (2003) by Jonathan Kingdon.

Four-striped Grass Mouse (Striped Mouse) Rhabdomys pumilio Dassie Rat Petromus typicus Cape Fur Seal Actophilornis pusillus Heaviside Dolphin Cephalorhynchus heavisidii G Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus Vervet Monkey Cercopithecus aethiops South African Ground Squirrel Geosciurus inauris Smith's Bush Squirrel (Tree Squirrel) Paraxerus cepapi Scrub Hare Lepus capensis Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Common (Small-spotted) Genet Genetta genetta Lion Panthera leo Leopard Panthera pardus Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus Cape Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis (African) Loxodonta africana Camelopardus giraffa giraffa Burchell's Common Equus quagga burchelli Hartmann's Equus hartmannae Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibious Browse (Black) Rhino Diceros bicornis Warthog Phacochoerus africanus African (Cape) Buffalo Syncerus caffer Sitatunga Tragelaphus spekii G Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros (Southern Oryx) Oryx gazella Springbok Antidorcas marsupialis Roan (Antelope) Hippotragus equines Sable (Antelope) Hippotragus hippotragus (Red) Lechwe Kobus lechwe lechwe Eland Taurotragus oryx Bush (Common) Duiker Sylvicapra grimmia Steinbuck Raphicerus campestris Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus Tsessebe Damaliscus lunatus Damara Dikdik Madoqua kirkii damarensis Southern Reedbuck Redunca arundinum Black-faced Impala Aepyceros melampus petersi Impala Aepyceros melampus melampus Kongoni / (Khama) Alcelaphus buselaphus caama Blue (Brindled Gnu) Connochaetes taurinus

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 Slender Mongoose Herpestes sanguinea Mungos mungo Cynictis penicillata Suricate () Suricata suricatta

G = Guide only

Giraffes always look a bit strained when they drink!

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015 LIST

Taxonomy and nomenclature based on Field Guide to and Other Reptiles of (1998) by Bill Branch, with some updates.

Marsh Terrapin Pelomedusa subrufa Western Three-striped Skink Trachylepis occidentalis Striped Skink Trachylepis striata Variegated Skink Trachylepis variegata Bushveld Lizard Heliobolus lugubris Cape Rough-scaled Lizard capensis Western Sand Lizard Pedioplanis undata Rock Monitor Varanus albigularis Water Monitor Varanus niloticus Ground Agama Agama aculeata Etosha Agama Agama etoshae Namibian Rock Agama Agama planiceps Cape Dwarf Gecko Lygodactylus capensis Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus

We saw many Nile Crocodiles along the Kavango River.

Namibia & Botswana September 5 – 20, 2015