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Cdt 286 COVER INGLESE Acca 13/10/1614:22Pagina1

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CIVILTÀ DELLA TAVOLA N. 286 G OCTOBER 2016 C A C C I A V D E I A M L A C

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N. 286, OCTOBER 2016

STOAMBMLAER IOO F CONTENTS

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L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI AND LUIGI BERTETT , DINO BUZZATI TRAVERSO , CESARE CHIODI , GIANNINO CITTERIO , ERNESTO DONÀ DALLE ROSE , MICHELE GUIDO FRANCI , GIANNI MAZZOCCHI BASTONI , ARNOLDO MONDADORI , ATTILIO NAVA , ARTURO ORVIETO , SEVERINO PAGANI , ALDO PASSANTE , GIANLUIGI PONTI , GIÒ PONTI , DINO VILLANI , EDOARDO VISCONTI DI MODRONE , WHIT MASSIMO ALBERINI AND VINCENZO BUONASSISI . FOCUS 7 Orio Vergani’s secrets (Carla Bertinelli Spotti) CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA 2 Amatriciana: the symbolic dish ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA which has nurtured solidarity 9 alla bolognese INTERNATIONAL EDITION (Paolo Petroni) on trial (Piergiulio Giordani OCTOBER 2016 / N. 286 Pavanelli) CULTURE AND RESEARCH EDITOR IN CHIEF PAOLO PETRONI 3 Gricia and amatriciana : COPY EDITOR golden rules of preparation SILVIA DE LORENZO (Francesco Maria Palomba) LAYOUT SIMONA MONGIU 5 Olindo Guerrini TRANSLATOR and his delicious treatise ANTONIA FRASER FUJINAGA (Pino Jubatti)

THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BY Carla Bertinelli Spotti, Piergiulio Giordani Pavanelli, Pino Jubatti, Francesco Maria Palomba, Paolo Petroni.

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PUBLISHER ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 M ILANO TEL . 02 66987018 - F AX 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.accademia1953.it

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MONTHLY MAGAZINE REG . N. 4049 - 29-5-1956 TRIBUNALE DI MILANO

On the cover: Detail from the painting “The Outdoor Wedding Dance” (circa 1610) by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, private collection, USA.

Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana

PAGE 1 F CUS Amatriciana: the symbolic dish which has nurtured solidarity The Academy comes to the aid of our traditions.

BY PAOLO PETRONI President of the Academy

hen a terrible earthquake de - - and immediately - our Academy, with a vastated various areas of cen - programme which, being far from generic, W tral in late August, the is tailored for the provision of direct and September issue of this magazine had al - personal assistance to organisations and ready been printed and was ready for swift individuals in line with our statutory aims. delivery to our readers: consequently we The credit for all this goes to a humble were unable to modify its content. There - but celebrated recipe: spaghetti all’ama - fore we published a special edition of our triciana (Amatrice-style spaghetti). This monthly Newsletter online, to inform the dish is famous throughout the world, and, public about the general situation and together with spaghetti alla about the Academicians potentially invol - and tagliatelle with ragù, it is one of the ved in the quake. Luckily, none were re - main symbols of our traditional . ported injured, though unfortunately two Academicians Many are aware that this was apparently created in residing in Accumoli and Arquata del Tronto had their by a cook from Amatrice: here it is often termed homes destroyed. As you presumably know from television ‘matriciana’, it uses rather than spaghetti, and it and newspapers, both funds and people (including Francesco often features and a little onion. It is said that at Palomba, our Delegate for Rieti and a Red Cross official; Amatrice, ‘amatriciana’ was instead prepared without his sister Giovanna; Alessandro Caponi, a physician and tomato and termed ‘gricia’. Even Ada Boni refers to gricia Councillor for Ascoli Piceno, who spared no effort notwi - as ‘amatriciana’ in her celebrated book dedicated to Roman thstanding the loss of his home in Arquata; and Giuseppe . But in the face of the recent catastrophe, none of Marrani, former Delegate for the Apuan Alps region and this matters much: what is imperative is to help Amatrice an official of the national Civil Protection force) have been and the other stricken towns, which were largely unknown decisively mobilised. This is by no means the first calamity before these events. And it must be pointed out that if to visit our peninsula, but never before did so many asso - Amatrice had not been among the areas affected, things ciations rush to the aid of the stricken areas: in particular, would have gone differently. A dish, a symbol, has been chefs, restaurants, the Slow movement, and likewise more effective than any number of words.

On the occasion of its Ecumenical Dinner in October, the Italian Academy of Cuisine will pay homage to our quake-stricken friends with a flavoursome dish of amatriciana pasta, whether red or white, linked to an entirely voluntary donation in favour of restaurants, cooks, hotel management students, artisans, butchers, bakers and others, according to the indications provided by our regional branches. The funds will be delivered rapidly and directly, without middlemen or deductions for expenses.

Accademia Italiana della Cucina - raccolta fondi Aree Terremotate IBAN IT14 A033 5901 6001 0000 0145 608 - SWIFT/BIC BCITITMX Causale: donazione a favore del terremoto Centro Italia agosto 2016

PAGE 2 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Gricia and amatriciana : golden rules of preparation Recipes which symbolise the Rieti province, and today also represent worldwide solidarity.

BY FRANCESCO MARIA PALOMBA Delegate for Rieti

‘Amatriciana’ or ‘matriciana’ pecorino, bags, dry pasta is a pasta-based dish which and guanciale when they stayed up in L’ takes its name from Amatrice, the mountains for what were often ra - a city in the province of Rieti. Its main ther long stretches of time. Since not ingredients are guanciale (jowl bacon), all the types of pasta now available pecorino cheese and tomato. It is on existed at the time, it is thought that the official list of pro - spaghetti was the pasta they used. ducts of the region. With the arrival of tomatoes in Europe The ancestor of amatriciana is ‘gricia’ and the invention of tomato in (or ‘griscia’), also known as ‘white ama - the late 18 th century, amatriciana was triciana’. Its name is said to derive from developed. The first written record of Grisciano, a small town a few kilometres tomato sauce being used as a condi - away from Amatrice, in the environs ment for pasta is in the cooking manual of Accumoli. entitled L’Apicio moderno , written in The recipe has a specific geographical 1790 by the Roman cook Francesco origin and has long been deeply rooted Leonardi. in the region. It is a simple pasta dish, The dish became increasingly popular invented before the arrival of tomato in Rome between the nineteenth and in the region by the shepherds of Ama - early twentieth century: news of it rea - trice who took along rucksacks full of ched the capital along with the she -

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pherds who seasonally moved their from Amatrice resident in Rome, who tradition, even if they do not necessarily flocks to the Roman countryside. The created the oft-claimed recipe in the originate in that region. A TSG product dish was originally named ‘matriciana’ capital and called it ‘spaghetti all’ama - must adhere to a precise production rather than ‘amatriciana’, since the in - triciana’ in honour of his native area, protocol. habitants of Amatrice called themselves since it was a variant of gricia . In favour The two recipes below follow the tra - ‘matriciani’ without the initial ‘a’. The - of this theory is the fact that the tomato ditional methods of ingredient selection refore the famous dish also took that used for amatriciana is ‘casalino’, typi - and preparation. The suggestions below name, which morphed over time to cally found around Rome. Another, less are crucial both for gricia and amatri - ‘amatriciana’. plausible hypothesis is that some guests ciana: Several taverners and innkeepers in at a Roman nobleman’s luncheon asked G Use high-quality dry durum wheat Rome came from Amatrice, such that the cook what was the flavoursome spaghetti . the term ‘matriciano’ came to mean dish offered them, and she answered G The guanciale must never be replaced ‘inn serving food’; and amatriciana , “spaghetti alla matriciana”, because by (which derives from pork though invented elsewhere, soon be - guanciale was termed ‘matrice’ in Ro - belly and changes the flavour). Guan - came a classic of Roman cuisine. man dialect at the time, probably by ciale comes from the jowl and is there - The recipe strictly requires spaghetti association with sow bacon. fore a finer fat with a more subtle and rather than bucatini (hollow spaghetti ), There are now efforts to have amatri - fragrant flavour compared to pancetta ; as witnessed inter alia by the billboards ciana recognised as ‘Traditional Spe - it is the most indispensable ingredient. at the entrance of Amatrice, proclaiming ciality Guaranteed’, a designation better G Use moderately aged pecorino from it “the city of spaghetti all’amatriciana”. known as TSG and introduced by the Amatrice, preferably marzolino , namely Some variants, differing only slightly EU to protect products dependent on the variety produced in spring when among themselves, are found in Ama - traditional recipes or production me - the sheep can browse among the finest trice families: for instance, one or two thods. herbs: it is delicately flavoured, not smashed cloves of garlic may be added; This certification, governed by Council overly salty, and faintly piquant (abso - the ingredients can all be mixed in Regulation (EC) No. 509/2006 (which lutely avoid , which is while raw, or instead the guanciale, replaces the preceding regulation much saltier). fried and drained, can be added when 2082/92), differs from other schemes G Avoid oil, whose acidity could alter the tomato is already simmering; a such as PDO (Protected Designation the taste; at most, use a spoonful of spoonful of rendered or half a glass of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geogra - rendered lard with a delicate and sweet of can be added; or bucatini phical Indication) in that it concerns flavour. can be used instead of spaghetti . agricultural and food products whose G It is best to use a cast-iron pan to According to Secondino Freda, ama - specificity depends on production me - prepare this dish. triciana was invented by a skilled cook thods or composition linked to regional FRANCESCO MARIA PALOMBA

ECUMENICAL DINNER 2016

Our ecumenical gathering, which invites all Academicians in Italy and abroad to a virtual dinner ta- ble, will take place on 20 October at 8:30 PM. The President has invited all Delegates worldwide to dedicate the Ecumenical Dinner not only to the cuisine of reuse as previously agreed, but also to the cuisine of Amatrice, by including spaghetti all’amatri- ciana in the menu in both its red (with tomato) and white or ‘alla gricia’ (wi- thout tomato) versions. In the of the convivial meeting, the Delegates will also gather totally voluntary donations for each dish served and will deposit them in the Academy’s dedicated fundraising account. The proceeds will be directly delivered to the restaurateurs, cooks or professional institutes indicated to the President by the Delegates thus tasked, according to region. On this occasion too, the Academy will do its part in support of our .

PAGE 4 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Olindo Guerrini and his delicious treatise “…it is economically sound to serve lavish and sumptuous , because one can live off the leftovers for a week!”.

BY PINO JUBATTI Vasto Academic

he 2016 Ecumenical Dinner, of reuse has, incidentally, not escaped whose ‘rediscovered theme’ is the mainstream news, since everyone T the cuisine of reuse, coincides is now aware of the noble (and indeed with the centenary of the passing of the papally blessed) gesture by Massimo great Olindo Guerrini (1845-1916), Bottura, of the Osteria Francescana marked last June at Casa Artusi in For - restaurant, who directed the delicious limpopoli and in Sant’Alberto di Ravenna reuse of the numerous leftovers from where Guerrini was raised, in a proud the Expo, an operation dubbed homage to an eminent local figure and, “Refettorio Ambrosiano”, in which over first and foremost, of his acclaimed book ninety needy homeless individuals in on the “art of re-using leftovers”. This Milan were treated to a succession of followed a brilliant introduction by Ho - banquets - an initiative with a glamorous norary President Giovanni Ballarini on aftermath, since the respected actor Ro - that work’s gastro-historical aspects and bert De Niro teamed up with Bottura to the complex personality of its author, launch a similar project in the Bronx! known by many flippant pseudonyms Let us return to the 2016 Ecumenical including Lorenzo Stecchetti. The concept theme: reuse of leftovers. It would be a

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fascinating topic for an audience of a time conditions which gave rise to the turism, that art is cooking... The art of sufficient age to fully appreciate the book, we must strive to understand ca - cooking is conservative and traditionalist, deeper and semantically complex mea - reful nutrition, a challenging concept as this example demonstrates”). A cen - ning of the word ‘reuse’ - or better, to for those who are witnesses or victims tury later, the work remains relevant understand the significance of a long- of overfeeding and its regrettable pa - even to those who achieve “starred sta - dormant gastronomic ritual, once the thological consequence elegantly termed tus” through questionable machinations culinary warhorse of an irreverent poet ‘obesity’. Returning to the forthright and considerable expense. It would, of and man of letters in a frightening time subject matter of the book - notable for course, be silly and reprehensible to of scarcity and rationing, and now revived presenting both the practical and the gloss over Guerrini’s contact with the at the dawn of the third millennium. In - hedonistic rewards of reusing leftovers, pride of Forlimpopoli, Pellegrino Artusi, deed, it is worth noting that Guerrini/Stec - virtues dramatically demonstrated by whose letters were brimming with hel - chetti chose to complete his magnum the aforementioned Bottura episode - it pful advice. The two interacted on a opus, L’arte di utilizzare gli avanzi della is incumbent to disseminate its contents human and intellectual level: for instance mensa (The Art of Reusing Leftovers ), in and the ideas of its author, a genius, in 1899, Olindo Guerrini presented Pel - the middle of the Great War, shortly be - and man of letters. To clarify: legrino Artusi with a satyrical recipe fore he passed away (the work was re - reuse - a habit which persisted throu - entitled “grillò abbragiato”, intended leased by the Formiggini publishing ghout most of the twentieth century to bring about “the ultimate defeat of house two years later, in 1918). This and now survives only among the social nineteenth-century cooking and French became a resource of considerable im - classes which have no other choice, not - fads”. Touché! The end of the Intro - portance, not only for its literary worth withstanding socio-ideological confusion duction eloquently captures the essence but for its apparent ‘survival value’ in on the matter - does not arise from need of that friendship - sealed with an au - view of the persistently gloomy wartime caused by severe food scarcity such as tographed copy of the third edition of atmosphere. However, such an asses - that which gave rise to the celebrated Artusi’s classic La scienza in cucina sment is not quite accurate. Firstly - set - book. Since the aim is to offer pleasant (Science in the ) - in the passage ting aside a few publications of the time, methods of ‘economising for the family’, where Guerrini meditates: “But a flaw explicitly dedicated to economising on the concept embodies a set of precise which no contrition or confession will food for the benefit of the needy prole - habits regarding expenditure and con - rectify is the frequent absence of quan - tariat, if not the so-called ‘war cuisine’ - sumption, as eloquently implied by the tities, weights and cooking times, indi - this would contradict the message in - couplet printed under the title (attributed cations which instead render Artusi’s herent in the book’s subtitle ( and fla - to a niece of Guerrini). This differs mar - book so useful and valuable... Then voursome frugality ). Secondly, it would kedly from the impudently modern and again, any cooks with a modicum of demonstrate an incomplete understan - morally suspect paradigm tastelessly experience in the art will soon find ding of the elevated message of the termed ‘consumerism’. their bearings. These minor difficulties book (which, interestingly, is a collectible In the Introduction, the author’s jocular can be overcome with patience and work also because of the illustrations tone exhibits rare amiability (“In truth, good judgement. The modest but judi - by the acclaimed painter and caricaturist given the import of the book, I should cious donkey can prepare meatballs, Augusto Majani, better known by the say ‘Appetiser’ instead of ‘Introduction’, unlike many professors whose judge - pseudonym Nasica). Today, in circum - but I prefer to follow the older custom, ment is merely feigned!”. stances so remote from the specific war - since if there is an art which resists fu - PINO JUBATTI

THE ACADEMY SILVER PLATE An elegant silver plated dish engraved with the Academy logo. This symbolic object may be presented to restaurants that display exceptional service, cuisine and hospitality. Delegates may contact the Milan Headquarters ([email protected] ) for more information and orders.

PAGE 6 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Orio Vergani’s secrets Through his niece’s recollections, the Cremona Delegation retraces both famous and obscure episodes in the life of the Academy’s founder.

BY CARLA BERTINELLI SPOTTI Cremona Academician

he Cremona Delegation attracted steeped in culture and cinema, but also a large and attentive audience Orio’s niece. She recounted his life star - T with its interesting meeting “Orio ting from his birth in Milan in 1898, in Vergani: a timely vision”, dedicated to a family vigorously involved in literature, the rediscovery of the human and cul - theatre and journalism. His mother, tural sides of the Academy’s founder Maria Podrecca, was a close associate and organised in collaboration with the of Anna Kuliscioff and had a strong per - Chamber of Commerce and the Sorop - sonality and a commitment to political timist association. To gain some real and social issues. Her brothers were ac - insight into his character, the journalist tive on the political and artistic scene Francesco Ballarini held a dialogue with of the time: Guido was a journalist and Vera Pescarolo, who is not only a woman editor of the political satire newspaper

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L’Asino (The Donkey ); Vittorio had foun - and literature events. Food and cuisine mote their cuisine, wine and cheese. ded the Teatro dei Piccoli, a renowned began to attract attention, and Orio As he admitted himself, the Academy musical marionette theatre which re - was always on the front lines. As a jour - was born “from the travel notes of an mains active today. This is where Orio nalist, he often wrote about sports, con - itinerant journalist who was flabber - was initially apprenticed, but differing tributing to the legendary status of the gasted when, in the civilised Veneto re - ages and worldviews soon caused Orio Giro d’Italia and the Tour de France, gion, waiters offered him Milanese cu - to depart for Rome and join the staff of both of which he covered 25 times. He tlets and expressed amazement when the newspaper Il Messaggero . There he did this in his own style, however. Vera he asked for the Treviso sausages dubbed met a number of ‘greats’ including Luigi remembers occasionally joining him at ‘luganeghe’, a local speciality; while the Pirandello, who became an important some of the stops along the Giro d’Italia, restaurateur, who hailed from Cone - reference point for Vergani where theatre and there was a distinctive atmosphere gliano, also in the Veneto, hurriedly of - and the art of writing were concerned. in the traditional restaurants where me - fered him Tuscan wines rather than the Recruited to the newspaper Corriere als were held. Indeed, her uncle always wines of his own Piave region”. He im - della Sera by Ugo Ojetti in 1926, he re - prepared parallel artistic and gastro - mediately called upon Dino Villani, and, mained there for 34 years, writing thou - nomic itineraries for the Giro and the meeting him in Suzzara, introduced his sands of articles on culture, politics and Tour. The eminent journalist and hi - idea. They rejected the name ‘club’ “since sports. In Rome he had frequented the storian recounts how it doesn’t have the prestige in Italy that Aragno café, a haunt of painters, jour - “...he knew everything about the Giro it does abroad, while the term ‘Academy’ nalists, and men of letters and culture; d’Italia and the Tour de France - except seemed overly grand and hyperbolic”. in Milan he patronised Bagutta, a rustic who had won that leg of the race, be - But some time later, they met with Er - restaurant where artists, literary authors cause on the way he’d stopped at a trat - nesto Donà dalle Rose at the Continental and journalists gathered each week: a toria famous for its roasts or stockfish, in Milan, and ‘Academy’ was in fact the transition from the literary café to the whose delights would be praised in his word they chose. Giovanni Ballarini em - literary dinner. And so it was that on subsequent article”. Vera spent consi - phasised that Vergani perceived the cul - the evening of 11 November 1926, the derable time in her uncle’s house in tural implications of food within its hu - Bagutta literary prize was established. Milan, with her aunt Mimì and cousins man aspect, and was therefore able to The award menu was as follows: Pepo - Guido and Leonardo, and remembers create an institution with an elevated ri-style mixed appetisers; Bagutta-style that “he often brought regional specia - cultural profile, which he envisioned as ravioli in broth; Ugo’s mixed fry; boiled lities home from his travels round Italy; an Academy in the chicken with speedy ; and he would also frequently visit shops and classical Greek sense. Vergani con - abundant cheese, fruit and wine. Vera where high-quality goods were sold, ceived the Academy as an association knew this place well, for her uncle often such as Peck in Milan, and bring us for protecting and improving traditions took her there. Orio described it thus: which we’d never encountered and standards and acknowledging hu - “...a place where we gather as the Mila - before, describing their particularities man and universal preoccupations, nese do, eat Tuscan food, and pay Ro - and flavours for us. It was a rare thing, which are independent of time and man-style, splitting the cost equally. A because food and cuisine weren’t often place, while forging a distinctive identity perfect trinity of Italian unity... an ex - discussed in people’s homes as they are which would foster continuous research, perience more human than literary; a now. Instead, Orio would make us un - study and understanding. For this am - meeting of gentlemen whom only a di - derstand what a really was, and bitious and challenging project he se - stinctive and stern upbringing could in - how to eat well... Going out to eat with lected first-rate personalities at the top duce to abandon their victuals for a him was like going to the theatre or an of their fields, whether they be culture, moment and return a greeting. Friends art exhibition, such was his culture on economics or publishing, to present a united by a love of conviviality... The the topic”. coherent conception of gastronomic ci - prize dinner was an extraordinary ga - The establishment of the Academy ama - vility. It was clear from the start that in stronomic and literary experience, a zed all his relatives, even though he Italy, cuisine is traditional and regional, delightfully boisterous atmosphere for - had always had the strong desire to embodied in recipes passed from mother tified by home-style cooking and earnest bring renown to the gastronomic arts to daughter and ingredients found only fraternal solidarity”. of Italy’s many regions. in a particular area and nowhere else, The combination of culture, friendship Honorary President Giovanni Ballarini in dishes that change with the terrain. and freedom, however, was considered concluded the meeting by recounting These are traditions and flavours to inconvenient, and in 1936 the Ministry the foundation of the Academy and its whose protection Vergani and the Aca - of Popular Culture forced the closure significance. The idea came to Vergani demy contributed and still contribute of the prize. The Bagutta prize resumed during the Tour de France, when he today. in 1947, accompanied by other food noted how the French were able to pro - CARLA BERTINELLI SPOTTI

PAGE 8 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Spaghetti alla bolognese on trial The best-known Italian dish abroad, after , is not part of Bolognese cuisine. Ragù accompanies tagliatelle rather than spaghetti.

BY PIERGIULIO GIORDANI PAVANELLI Academician

to prepare spaghetti with difficult to determine whether taglia - a tomato and tuna sauce. telle or spaghetti are superior, since We are well aware that this depends on personal preference; ‘spaghetti bolognese’, na - however, we believe that a fresh, egg- mely spaghetti with ragù, based pasta such as tagliatelle com - is the most widespread plements a good meat ragù better than Italian dish abroad after a dry pasta such as spaghetti could. pizza: from Manila to In 1972, the Bologna Delegation de - Washington, from New posited the ‘golden rule of tagliatelle’ Delhi to Moscow, there in the Chamber of Commerce in the will always be restau - presence of the famed gastronomic rants offering this dish. scholar Luigi Carnacina and the Com - But if we go to a restau - mendatore Francesco Majani (patron rant in Bologna which of the still-extant Majani chocolate offers local traditional manufacturer). It is recorded that the food and ask for spaghet - width of the Bolognese tagliatella, ti alla bolognese, we’ll when cooked and served, must be never find them! This equivalent to the height of the Torre dish is no longer part of degli Asinelli divided by 12.27, or pre - the city’s food culture. cisely 8 millimetres (6.5 to 7 before This doesn’t mean that cooking). the dish itself is bad; in - Concerning ragù, its recipe was depo - he vexed question of ‘spaghetti deed, if the spaghetti and the sauce sited in the Chamber of Commerce on alla bolognese’ has appeared are of good quality, this can be a tasty, the 17 th of October 1982, again by the T frequently in the press, espe - nutritious and enjoyable food. Of cour - Bologna Delegation, and its current cially in Bologna, in recent months. se, if local restaurants want to offer incarnation is provided in the Acade - Giancarlo Roversi, honorary Acade - ‘spaghetti alla bolognese’ to cater to my’s recipe book. mician and eminent scholar of Bolo - tourists, that is another matter entirely, A final note: in 1931 the ‘Fameja Bul - gnese history, maintains that centuries a purely commercial decision which gneisa’ (‘Bolognese Family’ in local dia - ago, thin vermicelli noodles - rather has nothing to do with local food cul - lect), headed at the time by the Nobel than spaghetti - were dressed with ture and history. laureate Guglielmo Marconi, held a ragù in Bologna, but this doesn’t ne - If it’s true, as it may well be, that ver - celebratory dinner to mark the putative cessarily justify the current ‘spaghetti micelli with ragù were eaten in Bologna 500 th anniversary of the invention of alla bolognese’ custom which, as di - centuries ago, it is also true that these the tagliatella, giving no credence to scussed below, seems not to have exi - came from the south, namely from the legend attributing it to Master Za - sted for a considerable time. It was Gragnano or Torre Annunziata, and firano, who is said to invented it in and remains common to enjoy farfalle , were therefore costly specialities en - 1503, inspired by the hair of Lucrezia gobbetti , penne , gramigna and other joyed not by the masses but by the Borgia, wife of Alfonso d’Este; and not dry and preferably short pasta with wealthier classes, such as the aristo - even to the other, more Bolognese le - meat-based ragù , but not spaghetti ; in cracy or the new rich. gend involving the tresses of Lucrezia fact, at least until a few years ago, it The authentic traditional speciality of d’Este, who married Annibale Benti - was the custom, especially on Fridays, Bologna is tagliatelle with ragù. It is voglio, lord of Bologna, in 1487.

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