CdT_286_COVER_INGLESE_Acca 13/10/16 14:22 Pagina 1 6 1 0 2 R E B O T C O CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA G 6 8 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 2 . N IN T ER N ED A I T T IO IO N N A L A L O V A 6 T 1 ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA 0 2 A L A CULTURAL INSTITUTION OF THE REPUBLIC OF ITALY R L FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI E B E O D T C À O T www.accademia1953.it , L 6 I 8 V 2 I . C N STOAMBMLAER IOO F CONTENTS LIANA TA D I E L A L I A M C E U D C A I C N C A A L’ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA FOUNDED IN 1953 BY ORIO VERGANI AND LUIGI BERTETT , DINO BUZZATI TRAVERSO , CESARE CHIODI , GIANNINO CITTERIO , ERNESTO DONÀ DALLE ROSE , MICHELE GUIDO FRANCI , GIANNI MAZZOCCHI BASTONI , ARNOLDO MONDADORI , ATTILIO NAVA , ARTURO ORVIETO , SEVERINO PAGANI , ALDO PASSANTE , GIANLUIGI PONTI , GIÒ PONTI , DINO VILLANI , EDOARDO VISCONTI DI MODRONE , WHIT MASSIMO ALBERINI AND VINCENZO BUONASSISI . FOCUS 7 Orio Vergani’s secrets (Carla Bertinelli Spotti) CIVI LT ÀDELL ATAVOLA 2 Amatriciana: the symbolic dish ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA which has nurtured solidarity 9 Spaghetti alla bolognese INTERNATIONAL EDITION (Paolo Petroni) on trial (Piergiulio Giordani OCTOBER 2016 / N. 286 Pavanelli) CULTURE AND RESEARCH EDITOR IN CHIEF PAOLO PETRONI 3 Gricia and amatriciana : COPY EDITOR golden rules of preparation SILVIA DE LORENZO (Francesco Maria Palomba) LAYOUT SIMONA MONGIU 5 Olindo Guerrini TRANSLATOR and his delicious treatise ANTONIA FRASER FUJINAGA (Pino Jubatti) THIS ISSUE INCLUDES ARTICLES BY Carla Bertinelli Spotti, Piergiulio Giordani Pavanelli, Pino Jubatti, Francesco Maria Palomba, Paolo Petroni. OOO PUBLISHER ACCADEMIA ITALIANA DELLA CUCINA VIA NAPO TORRIANI 31 - 20124 M ILANO TEL . 02 66987018 - F AX 02 66987008 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.accademia1953.it OOO MONTHLY MAGAZINE REG . N. 4049 - 29-5-1956 TRIBUNALE DI MILANO On the cover: Detail from the painting “The Outdoor Wedding Dance” (circa 1610) by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, private collection, USA. Rivista associata all’Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana PAGE 1 F CUS Amatriciana: the symbolic dish which has nurtured solidarity The Academy comes to the aid of our traditions. BY PAOLO PETRONI President of the Academy hen a terrible earthquake de - - and immediately - our Academy, with a vastated various areas of cen - programme which, being far from generic, W tral Italy in late August, the is tailored for the provision of direct and September issue of this magazine had al - personal assistance to organisations and ready been printed and was ready for swift individuals in line with our statutory aims. delivery to our readers: consequently we The credit for all this goes to a humble were unable to modify its content. There - but celebrated recipe: spaghetti all’ama - fore we published a special edition of our triciana (Amatrice-style spaghetti). This monthly Newsletter online, to inform the dish is famous throughout the world, and, public about the general situation and together with spaghetti alla carbonara about the Academicians potentially invol - and tagliatelle with ragù, it is one of the ved in the quake. Luckily, none were re - main symbols of our traditional cuisine. ported injured, though unfortunately two Academicians Many are aware that this pasta was apparently created in residing in Accumoli and Arquata del Tronto had their Rome by a cook from Amatrice: here it is often termed homes destroyed. As you presumably know from television ‘matriciana’, it uses bucatini rather than spaghetti, and it and newspapers, both funds and people (including Francesco often features guanciale and a little onion. It is said that at Palomba, our Delegate for Rieti and a Red Cross official; Amatrice, ‘amatriciana’ was instead prepared without his sister Giovanna; Alessandro Caponi, a physician and tomato and termed ‘gricia’. Even Ada Boni refers to gricia Councillor for Ascoli Piceno, who spared no effort notwi - as ‘amatriciana’ in her celebrated book dedicated to Roman thstanding the loss of his home in Arquata; and Giuseppe cooking. But in the face of the recent catastrophe, none of Marrani, former Delegate for the Apuan Alps region and this matters much: what is imperative is to help Amatrice an official of the national Civil Protection force) have been and the other stricken towns, which were largely unknown decisively mobilised. This is by no means the first calamity before these events. And it must be pointed out that if to visit our peninsula, but never before did so many asso - Amatrice had not been among the areas affected, things ciations rush to the aid of the stricken areas: in particular, would have gone differently. A dish, a symbol, has been chefs, restaurants, the Slow Food movement, and likewise more effective than any number of words. On the occasion of its Ecumenical Dinner in October, the Italian Academy of Cuisine will pay homage to our quake-stricken friends with a flavoursome dish of amatriciana pasta, whether red or white, linked to an entirely voluntary donation in favour of restaurants, cooks, hotel management students, artisans, butchers, bakers and others, according to the indications provided by our regional branches. The funds will be delivered rapidly and directly, without middlemen or deductions for expenses. Accademia Italiana della Cucina - raccolta fondi Aree Terremotate IBAN IT14 A033 5901 6001 0000 0145 608 - SWIFT/BIC BCITITMX Causale: donazione a favore del terremoto Centro Italia agosto 2016 PAGE 2 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH Gricia and amatriciana : golden rules of preparation Recipes which symbolise the Rieti province, and today also represent worldwide solidarity. BY FRANCESCO MARIA PALOMBA Delegate for Rieti ‘Amatriciana’ or ‘matriciana’ pecorino, black pepper bags, dry pasta is a pasta-based dish which and guanciale when they stayed up in L’ takes its name from Amatrice, the mountains for what were often ra - a city in the province of Rieti. Its main ther long stretches of time. Since not ingredients are guanciale (jowl bacon), all the types of pasta now available pecorino cheese and tomato. It is on existed at the time, it is thought that the official list of traditional food pro - spaghetti was the pasta they used. ducts of the Lazio region. With the arrival of tomatoes in Europe The ancestor of amatriciana is ‘gricia’ and the invention of tomato sauce in (or ‘griscia’), also known as ‘white ama - the late 18 th century, amatriciana was triciana’. Its name is said to derive from developed. The first written record of Grisciano, a small town a few kilometres tomato sauce being used as a condi - away from Amatrice, in the environs ment for pasta is in the cooking manual of Accumoli. entitled L’Apicio moderno , written in The recipe has a specific geographical 1790 by the Roman cook Francesco origin and has long been deeply rooted Leonardi. in the region. It is a simple pasta dish, The dish became increasingly popular invented before the arrival of tomato in Rome between the nineteenth and in the region by the shepherds of Ama - early twentieth century: news of it rea - trice who took along rucksacks full of ched the capital along with the she - PAGE 3 SCOUMLMTAURRIO E & RESEARCH pherds who seasonally moved their from Amatrice resident in Rome, who tradition, even if they do not necessarily flocks to the Roman countryside. The created the oft-claimed recipe in the originate in that region. A TSG product dish was originally named ‘matriciana’ capital and called it ‘spaghetti all’ama - must adhere to a precise production rather than ‘amatriciana’, since the in - triciana’ in honour of his native area, protocol. habitants of Amatrice called themselves since it was a variant of gricia . In favour The two recipes below follow the tra - ‘matriciani’ without the initial ‘a’. The - of this theory is the fact that the tomato ditional methods of ingredient selection refore the famous dish also took that used for amatriciana is ‘casalino’, typi - and preparation. The suggestions below name, which morphed over time to cally found around Rome. Another, less are crucial both for gricia and amatri - ‘amatriciana’. plausible hypothesis is that some guests ciana: Several taverners and innkeepers in at a Roman nobleman’s luncheon asked G Use high-quality dry durum wheat Rome came from Amatrice, such that the cook what was the flavoursome spaghetti . the term ‘matriciano’ came to mean dish offered them, and she answered G The guanciale must never be replaced ‘inn serving food’; and amatriciana , “spaghetti alla matriciana”, because by pancetta (which derives from pork though invented elsewhere, soon be - guanciale was termed ‘matrice’ in Ro - belly and changes the flavour). Guan - came a classic of Roman cuisine. man dialect at the time, probably by ciale comes from the jowl and is there - The recipe strictly requires spaghetti association with sow bacon. fore a finer fat with a more subtle and rather than bucatini (hollow spaghetti ), There are now efforts to have amatri - fragrant flavour compared to pancetta ; as witnessed inter alia by the billboards ciana recognised as ‘Traditional Spe - it is the most indispensable ingredient. at the entrance of Amatrice, proclaiming ciality Guaranteed’, a designation better G Use moderately aged pecorino from it “the city of spaghetti all’amatriciana”. known as TSG and introduced by the Amatrice, preferably marzolino , namely Some variants, differing only slightly EU to protect products dependent on the variety produced in spring when among themselves, are found in Ama - traditional recipes or production me - the sheep can browse among the finest trice families: for instance, one or two thods. herbs: it is delicately flavoured, not smashed cloves of garlic may be added; This certification, governed by Council overly salty, and faintly piquant (abso - the ingredients can all be mixed in Regulation (EC) No.