INSIDE: The Best Pizza in Rome 3 Roman Suppli at Sbanco 5 “Aparthotels” in Venice 6 Italian Judaism Museum Opens 8

Santo Palato

Casa Burano Unique New dream of ® Stays in Venice n a city only six square miles in size that welcomes I upwards of 30 million travelers annually, finding a special place to feel at home in Venice can certainly be daunting. Visiting Venice publication Dream Of is so much more than a single day Volume 17, Issue 6 www.dreamofitaly.com August 2018 ITA LY trip and staying even just a few days allows guests an opportunity to enjoy the best of the city in the tranquil Dine as early mornings and calm evenings. Several newer properties located off the beaten path offer unique locations The Romans Do where guests can live the city as its residents do. ome elements of Roman cuisine absolute favorites. I have found them are initially hard to wrap your thanks to my Roman friends’ Casa Burano S head around. When I first recommendations and insistence. I’ve moved to the Eternal City four years been to these places more times than I Those who have visited the quaint ago, I was less than enthused about can count and I am surprised at every fishing island of Burano in the trying Roman specialties like visit by the dynamic flavors. northern lagoon will easily remember calf intestines, and the At these restaurants, you will the facades in every color under the stomach lining of sheep, but always see, smell and taste rainbow together with hoards of the mastery of Roman chefs authentic Rome with every visitors. Burano is usually only a day- in taking these humble bite. trip destination for visitors but the ingredients and elevating real magic happens as the sun comes them to delicious levels is Oasis of Authentic Rome up in the early morning and again in unmatched in the Italian the evenings when the island’s small culinary world. Historically a Santo Palato is a traditional canals are more mirror-like than poor cuisine, peasant dishes Roman restaurant with all the water filled. Trapizzino of the past are now the solid platform comforts of the cuisine of the capital on which modern powerful Roman such as tripe, oxtail stew, salt cod, and The island is indeed full of residents, cuisine was built. carbonara. Nestled on a quiet street off which is hard to imagine in the a busy intersection of the San Giovanni middle of the day as visitors flock to These restaurants are a few of my continued on page 2 continued on page 6 Romans eat gnocchi on Thursdays. Rome Dining continued from page 1

They strive to use organic meats and biodynamic vegetables from local farms. They take classic Italian ingredients and revamp them with new techniques, wilder cuts, and o i d u

t interesting twists. Recently, they’ve S

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v presented a trippa fritta, or fried tripe, i t l u

C on their menu. Tripe is an important Sarah Cicolini Santo Palato element in Roman cuisine usually neighborhood, this restaurant feels like sharing their opinions on which served in a rich tomato sauce but the visiting a relative’s home for dinner. creations you absolutely cannot miss Fooders imaginatively present it as a The team at Santo Palato is led by an and what new developments are fried dish. amazing young chef named Sarah coming out of the kitchen on any given Cicolini who is as friendly in the dining day. The atmosphere of this place feels The space of Mazzo is very small and room as she is creative and smart in like your grandma’s kitchen and often holds one large table similar to that of the kitchen. Sunday lunches are booked a week in a home dining room. There are 10 advance, so reservations are definitely spaces at the table for guests to eat and The walls of this trattoria have custom recommended. It’s easy to see why this a small table in an adjacent corner has artwork made for the restaurant trattoria has done two bar stools where another couple 8 1

0 designed with a 1920s/30s feel. The so well in its first can sit. The atmosphere of the 2

t s simple tables and chairs and clean year in business. restaurant is intimate and inviting u g

u colors of the space are the perfect and the communal table lends itself A backdrop to frame these beautiful Santo Palato to conversation between couples Piazza Tarquinia, 4/A/B 2 designs. and small groups seated all (39) 06 77207354 together. Given the very limited Open for dinner only Tuesday to Friday; lunch and m The menu here never disappoints and seating, reservations are strictly o

c dinner on Saturday and Sunday. .

y is never the same. While you will required. l a

t Closed Monday i always find a carbonara made with the f o

m perfect blend of cured pork, egg and On a giant blackboard taking up the a e

r Pecorino, there are seasonal surprises entire wall behind the d .

w on the blackboard hung near the central dining table,

w Small Restaurant, Big Taste

w kitchen window, like the late-summer Marco and Francesca staple of a side of erbe selvatiche, or Mazzo is more of an experience write the day’s wild herbs. than simply a place to have a meal. specialties. The well- This tiny restaurant located in the thought-out dishes Practically the essence of Rome on a up-and-coming neighborhood of such as their thrice o r

plate, the rigatoni alla pajata is Centocelle in eastern Rome, is the d cooked boiled, n a i c s

sensational. Calves’ intestines slow brainchild of Francesca and Marco, i roasted, and fried L

i D

cooked in tomato sauce make the sauce a young couple who met in pork belly served with a n n

for this pasta. The intestines, given that culinary school and call a seasonal veggies are v o i

the calves had never eaten anything themselves ‘’The Fooders.’’ The G proof of the pair’s Francesca and Marco but their mother’s milk, are creamy pair and their very small dedication to and delicate. This dish is an ode to the staff invent recipes with finding perfect culinary tradition of Rome, generally seasonal ingredients and flavors, textures considered a poor cuisine, and is a create flavor combinations and symmetry testament to Cicolini who makes it fit you would never think to in their dishes. for a royal feast. make at home. t r a u

t Given the S

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The young and friendly wait staff are The attention to ingredients a intense M quick to recommend a dish, happily is paramount for the chefs. Fried tripe dedication to Ancient Roman cuisine was stro the flavor schemes, the Fooders will crowd favorite is the mashed potato- also gladly recommend the perfect filled crocchetta dotted with Calabrese In a League of Its Own wine or liquor to go with your meal, or sausage spread called ‘nduja. to end on. While it may seem anything Italian food is so well known all over but Italian, the Mississippi Mud Pie at While the starters are exceptional, the the world that it is hard to imagine a this restaurant is better than what you main event is the pizza. The form new creation that captures the familiar might have in the U.S. It may seem like reigns in a class of its own like the magic of Italian cuisine. Essentially a a wild card on which to end your child of Roman thin crust pizza and triangle of pizza dough stuffed with Italian meal, but it is one of the most Neapolitan pizza. The pizzaiolo here classic Italian and Roman dishes like memorable desserts in the city. creates delectable pies with seasonal chicken cacciatore, eggplant elements. parmigiana, trippa alla romana, and Mazzo meatballs in tomato sauce to name a Via delle Rose, 54 In the winter, they make a pizza with few, Trapizzino, the dish and the eatery, (39) 06 64962847 puntarelle and anchovies that is a fun will quickly become a favorite. www.thefooders.wordpress.com twist on the typical Roman salad, Open Monday to Friday 6 p.m. to midnight, which is made with the curled tops of The brain child of Roman pizzaiolo Saturday from 1 p.m. to 3:30 pm and 7 p.m. asparagus chicory plants, called Stefano Callegari, trapizzino is made to midnight. puntarelle, and dressed with with a mother yeast that has been Closed Sunday anchovies, garlic, black pepper and handed down for many generations 8 1

olive oil. A yearlong staple and crowd and originates in Southern Italy. The 0 2

t pleaser, the pizza Gateau, is a white pie continued on page 4 s u g

with potatoes, prosciutto and u

The Best Pizza in Rome A stracciatella, a soft, fresh cheese with a Doodles and paintings of creamy, buttery taste. dream of 3 chubby cats don the walls of ®

this Monteverde pizzeria. The Cold beer on tap, m o c .

logo of La Gatta Mangiona is a delicious appetizers and y ITALY l

Kathleen A. McCabe a t cat with its paw over its belly, perfect pizza pies make it i Editor in Chief and Publisher f o

reclining after a delicious and clear to see why this m a e

abundant meal. Consistently pizzeria is often booked Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick r d Associate Editor: Elaine Murphy . named as one of the best up a week in advance. w

Design: Kim Leaird w

pizzerias in Rome and on the They also do take-out if www.leaird-designs.com w top 10 list of pizzerias in Italy, you cannot find a spot in Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - it is easy to see why from the the dining room during ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a moment you walk past the dinner hours. year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and Giancarlo Casa abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) desserts table, proudly costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to on display, reminding La Gatta Mangiona more than 150 back issues and regular e-mail updates. Via Federico Ozanam, 30-32 visitors to save space for Three ways to subscribe: the grand finale of their (39) 06 5346702 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, www.lagattamangiona.com Denver, CO 80201 homemade tiramisù. 2. Call 202-297-3708 Open daily from 7:30 p.m. to 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted) A blackboard on the wall 11:15 p.m. Dream of Italy and Dream of are registered displays the fried starters trademarks of Dream of Italy, Inc. and pizzas of the day. Editorial feedback is welcome. Roman rice balls, called La Gatta Mangiona E-mail: [email protected] suppli, and potato crocchette are made Copyright © 2018 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights with interesting ingredients putting Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - them light years ahead of most other mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, pizzerias’ offerings. Mouthwatering Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that and just the right amount of spicy, a may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com ngly influenced by the Greeks. Rome Dining continued from page 3

The second dish is the fried gnocchi Trattoria in a Green Garden cacio e pepe. These fried potato pasta clouds are covered in creamy pecorino Tucked away in the Monteverde and a generous dousing of black neighborhood, close to the gates of the pepper, a play on the famous Roman spacious Villa Pamphili park, sits Da cacio e pepe usually made with Cesare al Casaletto. If you didn’t know tagliatelle. to look for this gem of a trattoria, you Trapizzino would probably walk right by it. Be sure to leave room for the pastas living substance is fed water and and main courses since they are flour daily, and the perfect dough is On a quiet street, Da Cesare’s large refreshing revisits to Roman classics testament to how much care the dining room is hidden across a large but with a modern flare. The owner of team puts into these hand-size outdoor garden shielded from this place, Leonardo, and his wife Maria triangles. passersby by hedges and Pia, give a home-style feel to this ivy. This restaurant serves restaurant with its multicolored glasses The original location of Italian classics, but and clean white linens. Leonardo is an Trapizzino sits on the side of upgraded. Roman classics, expert on natural wines and is always the Piazza of Santa Maria such as trippa alla romana (sheep happy to recommend which will go Liberatrice in the heart of stomach lining cooked for many best with what you order. 8 1

0 Testaccio, just a few steps from the river hours with tomato sauce and topped 2

t s banks of the Tiber. Testaccio is often with pecorino Romano cheese and During summer months, Leonardo u g

u considered the birthplace of modern mint), are served in abundant portions and Maria Pia are joined in the dining A Roman cuisine and that reputation and the recipes are tried and tested to room and the outdoor garden by their 4 exudes from each filling the shop absolute perfection. daughter who sometimes takes orders makes. from customers and charms them into

m The two must-try dishes at Da Cesare ordering desserts despite being stuffed o c .

y During the sweltering summer months are delicious starters sure to win over after the delicious meals. Complete l a t i in Rome, Trapizzino adapts to what anyone who tastes them. The first dish your meal with the millefoglie. The f o

m customers crave and makes chilled is the polpette di bollito, shredded beef crispy wafers are lined with crema a e

r options. The lingua in salsa verde is cow brisket meatballs, with a pesto sauce pasticcera, a smooth, creamy custard, d .

w tongue in a green herby sauce and and shredded pecorino cheese on top. and have a glazed amarena (sour w

w satisfies a more adventurous palate. cherry) on top making this dessert the Another favorite, the doppia panna literal cherry on top to a perfect meal. combines creamy stracciatella cheese and anchovies for a perfect summer Da Cesare al Casaletto time meal. Via del Casaletto, 45 (39) 06 536015 The trapizzino craze has gone www.trattoriadacesare.it international and Callegari and his Open daily for lunch and dinner, except team have opened multiple locations Wednesday. in Rome and Milan, as well as in Crocchette di melanzane Japan, Australia and New York City. Craft Beer, Pizza and Suppli Trapizzino Testaccio Via Giovanni Branca, 88 Opened in 2016, this pizzeria and (39) 06 4341 9624 artisanal beer lover’s paradise was www.trapizzino.it born of a partnership between Stefano Open daily Tuesday to Sunday, 12 p.m. to 1 a.m. Callegari (of Trapizzino), Marco Closed Monday Pucciotti, a young Roman restaurateur, and Giovanni Campari, founder of Da Cesare Romans traditionally eat pepper are a flavor explosion for your mouth from the first bite.

The pizza dough is cooked first with ice cubes, then when the ice melts, the cheese gets added and the final result is the creamiest pizza you have ever tasted. This pie is best ordered as an appetizer to share because everyone at Cacio e pepe pizza your table will want a slice. Mordi e Vai

Be sure to get an artisanal beer with Be sure to take a number and keep an your meal. It’s fun to walk along the eye on the ticker, but while you wait extensive bar and ask the for your turn, try to get a peek at the knowledgeable bartenders about the many Roman dishes behind the types of beers on tap. There are many counter glass. Vegetarian options like to try and they will gladly help you the carciofi alla romana made with find the perfect beer for your order. artichokes and a hefty helping of garlic, parsley and olive oil, and other 8

Sbanco chefs 1

Sbanco options like veal alla carbonara entice 0 2

Via Siria, 1 t Birrificio del Ducato in Parma. These visitors to get multiple sandwiches to s u

(39) 06 789318 g three experts have created a cool and share. While the choice of which u inviting atmosphere to enjoy supplì, sbanco.business.site sandwich to get is a tough one, have A Open for dinner, Monday to Saturday, and for which are Roman rice balls that come faith that you cannot make a wrong 5 in a variety of flavors, pizza and beer lunch and dinner on Sunday. decision. Everything at this shop gets

on tap with friends and family. made with expert hands. m o c . y l a t True to the Roman roots of its owners, The smell and explosions of flavor in i Gastronomia Romanesca f o

Sbanco’s supplì are exceptional. Ever- the sandwiches will lure you through m a e

changing season to season, the menu If you find yourself in Testaccio Market the market to this stand, and the r d .

makes for an exciting surprise at every and want to grab a handful of the polpette della nonna will blow your w w

visit. A jewel of the pizzeria, the suppli essence of Roman cuisine, visit Sergio mind and please your palette. These w carbonara is the best rice ball in the at Mordi e Vai. Inspired by the meatballs made with boiled shredded entire city. Stuffed with egg, cured historically poor cuisine of Testaccio, beef, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and pork meat, pecorino and black pepper, this sandwich shop, run by a some special ingredients leave a Sbanco pays a perfect tribute to this former butcher of the same lasting impression on pillar of Roman cuisine. It is market, creates masterpieces on customers. Unassuming ingeniously served to guests in a new loaves of bread. on the outside, these form, but the flavor is heartwarmingly saucer-shaped familiar. It is exactly that of a big bowl The alesso di scottona e cicoria is a tried meatballs will keep you of carbonara, as good as any Roman and true favorite. All other sandwiches dreaming of Mordi e Vai long after grandma makes. pale in comparison to this hearty you’ve left. boiled shredded beef and stewed The pièce de résistance of Sbanco is a chicory; expertly compiled like a Mordi e Vai Callegari classic: the cacio e pepe pizza. jigsaw puzzle so no morsel slips out. Via Beniamino Franklin 12E, Box 15 What is probably the most famous of You might encounter a small wait at (39) 339 1343344 all Roman pastas, cacio e pepe might the counter if you visit during the www.mordievai.it seem like a strange flavor for a pizza, lunch time rush. Open Monday to Saturday, 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. but the perfectly melted pecorino —Danielle Abbazia 1€ =$1.14atpresstime cheese and the heavy dose of black baccalà (salted cod) on Fridays. 6

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The restoration of this property was a well as sauerkrauts and pickled beets. and antique furnishings. A mounted labor of love for designers Anna Covre iPad in each unit controls the and Frederic Tubau as they returned to Each kitchen at Palazzo Volpi is well- temperature, lights and even music Covre’s Venetian roots. The units stocked so guests can feel completely with preloaded playlists. The overlook the square and the Scuola comfortable cooking without missing furnishings have been sourced from all Grande di San Marco with its 16th- that “one” necessary item that so often over the Veneto and combined century Renaissance façade that is now happens in traditional apartment together with soothing color palettes the entrance to Venice’s hospital. rentals. Another perk of staying here is and complementary fabrics, the the morning aroma of freshly baked interiors are simply dreamy. Several of pastries from the bakery downstairs, the units have their own private Venice’s beloved Rosa Salva. balconies and terraces while a lush garden space is accessible to all guests. Palazzo Volpi Castello 6805a The fabulous Rialto Market is a five- Campo S.S. Giovanni e Paolo minute walk from the property and the (39) 331 4299308 a area is filled with bakeries, grocery www.palazzovolpi.com stores, cafés, restaurants, bars and Rates: Start at 480€ per suite per night. Coffee small fine food stores. This is another Palazzo Volpi and tea included in each suite. very residential area where guests 8 1

The couple designed all furnishings easily fit into the fabric of Venetian life. 0 2

t and the lighting fixtures and it’s here In terms of sight-seeing in the area, s u g

that you see the Japanese influence Palazzo Morosini degli guests are in close proximity to the u from their past projects and overseas Spezieri Frari Church, the Scuola Grande di San A sojourns. The French influence, which Rocco and the Scuola Grande San 7 is where their primary residence is Palazzo Morosini degli Spezieri, located Giovanni Evangelista.

located, is seen with the toiletry in the sestiere of San Polo, is a 15th- m o c

Palazzo Morosini degli Spezieri . products by Paris-based stylist David century nine-unit “aparthotel” y l a

San Polo 2348 t Mallet. overlooking one of the city’s most i f

(39) 375 5049734 o

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www.morosinideglispezieri.com e

The apartments are spacious, well Campiello Sant’Agostin. The amenities r d Rates: Range from 180€ to 250€ per night, plus a . designed and comfortable from the and furnishings are five-star quality w 70€ final cleaning charge. Breakfast available by w velvet chairs and couches to the Frette and the service is impeccable. Manager w linens and the well-stocked kitchens, Pietro Rusconi trained with the finest; request. which include high-end appliances. his father was the esteemed manager These wonderful accommodations Each of the three units also has a of the exclusive Hotel Cipriani for welcome visitors to areas where they washing machine and coveted dryer, a decades. So it is safe to say that can slip into their own Venetian life rarity for most Venetians. hospitality is part of his DNA. and feel at home for the duration of their stay. The location is not too far from one of Venice’s newest businesses, I&S —Jill S. Weinreich

Organic Farm (Cannaregio 3818; A love of exploring new places brought Jill Weinreich www.iesfarm.com ), the Venetian retail to Venice in 1996 and she has never looked back. store from the island of Sant’Erasmo’s Being a freelance translator, English teacher and only organic farm. It’s truly farm-to- event organizer still leaves her with time to marvel at table and the owners take great pride Venice’s beauty, which never gets old! in their seasonal produce, which is harvested early each day before crossing the lagoon to Venice. They Palazzo Morosini degli Spezieri also have a delicious range of their The on-site technology is impressive jarred tomato and kale pesto sauces as and fits in seamlessly with the modern f ring a charge for daytrippers. Italian Judaism Museum Opens

uring World War II, the city prison speak about Jews as dead people, it’s Jews live in the city. In all of Italy, the in Ferrara, a city of about 133,000 not me” — as the museum focuses on Jewish-Italian population at its height D between Bologna and Venice, the way Jews lived in Italy for numbered about 50,000; today it is detained Jews who came from thousands of years instead of how they about 28,000. Ferrara’s ghetto and who were later suffered. sent to concentration camps. Now, that A national museum of Jewish history same prison has been converted to Italy has the oldest Jewish community has been a long time coming: MEIS is Italy’s first museum dedicated to in the Western world, dating back to the result of a 2003 law passed by the Jewish history. 161 BC. Italian Parliament mandating the Romans establishment of a national Jewish The National Museum conquered museum. This year is the 80th of Italian Judaism and the Jerusalem 200 anniversary of Italy’s anti-Jewish laws, Shoah (MEIS) opened in that were put into December 2017 with a place in 1938 — and, narrative, immersive and at a time when multimedia approach, much of the incorporating interactive Western world is maps, timelines, video Architectural fragments from Jerusalem grappling with the 8 1

0 testimonials from Italian resurgence of anti- 2

t s Jews, and minute-long films Semitism and u g

u containing information from nationalist ideology, A scholars. The museum’s MEIS exterior MEIS brings into 8 rooms are mostly empty of years later, and focus both the past and present. artifacts, choosing instead to by 80 AD

m tell the Italian-Jewish story Romans had In response to the museum’s opening, o c .

y through narration. brought Jewish Ferrara is once again becoming a l a t i slaves from center of Jewish culture. The city offers f Garden of Questions o

m That said, the museum does have some present-day Israel and had them build a self-guided walking tour of Jewish a e

r Jewish artifacts that were found the Colosseum. In medieval times, landmarks, including the synagogue, d .

w throughout Italy. One such piece, on after the Spanish Inquisition forced cemetery, and former ghetto, with a w

w loan from the National Archaeological Jews to either convert to Catholicism or map available at the city tourist office. Museum of Naples, is the epitaph of flee Spain, the ruling monarchs in Claudia Aster, a 25-year-old brought Ferrara — at the time, the Este family In the next three years, the museum from Jerusalem to Rome as a slave. — encouraged Jews to settle in the city, will add five new glass buildings in the beginning Ferrara’s 1,000-year-old shape of books — one to represent The temporary exhibit space was connection to Jewish history. each book of the Torah — that will formerly the men’s quarters of the contain a kosher restaurant, prison. The run-down women’s However, like in the rest of Italy, auditorium, educational and youth building was razed and, in the space Ferrara began to withdraw its welcome spaces and an archive. where it once stood, is a garden called to Jews during World War II, forcing the “Maze of Questions” that explains them to live first in ghettos and then in MEIS Jewish dietary laws as visitors walk the city’s prison before sending them Via Piangipane, 81 among planted herbs. to concentration camps. About 7,500 Ferrara Italian Jews died in the Holocaust, and (39) 06 3996713 Museum director Simonetta Della Seta about 420 were killed in military www.meisweb.it told the Washington Post that MEIS is combat. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. not a Jewish museum, but rather “a Admission: 10€ national museum dedicated to At its most populous in 1800, Ferrara’s Jews.” Nor is it a memorial museum, Jewish community comprised about she says, because “if you’re going to 2,000 people; today, only a few dozen t In the 1500s, Italy was the center of Jewish publishing.