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GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES on SUSTAINABLE FASHION Edited By GLOBAL PERSPECTIVES ON SUSTAINABLE FASHION Edited by ALISON GWILT, ALICE PAYNE, AND EVELISE ANICET RÜTHSCHILLING BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS LONDON • NEW YORK • OXFORD • NEW DELHI * SYDNEY CONTENTS List ofFigures, Tables, and Illustrations vii 1.4 A Spotlight on: The Production Acknowledgments xi of Wool Fiber in List of Contributing Authors xii Uruguay 25 Foreword xxii Ana Livni, brand owner/designer, Uruguay Orsola de Castro Introduction xxiv 1.5 Independent Fashion Design Alison Gwilt, Alice Payne, and Evelise in Argentina: Is Anicet Rüthschilling "Sustainablewashing" a Concern? 28 Miguel Angel Gardetti, Center for PART ONE ILATIN AMERICA 1 Studies on Sustainable Luxury, Argentina 1.1 Sunshine on a Cloudy Day: Sustainable Fashion in Brazil 2 1.6 A Spotlight on: Sustainable Evelise Anicet Rüthschilling, Federal Fashion in Colombia: Perspectives University ofRio Grande do Sul, Brazil and Scope 41 Dolly Viviana Polo Flörez, 1.2 A Spotlight on: Fashion Activism: Universidad de San Buenaventura, The Impact of the Fashion Cali-Colombia. Revolution Movement in Brazil 14 Anne Anicet, Research Center on PART TWO Sustainable Fashion, UFRGS, RS, Brazil INORTH AMERICA 44 Cariane Weydman Camargo, Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos, UNISINOS, RS, 2.1 Industry Leadership Brazil toward Sustainable Fashion Through User 1.3 Raiz Diseno: The Journey of a Silent Consumer Engagement: Resistance 17 North America 45 Laura Novik, Universidad de San Andres, Tasha L. Lewis and Suzanne Loker, Buenos Aires, Argentina Cornell University, USA 2.2 A Spotlight on: Pattern Makers 3.2 A Spotlight on: Sustainable Fashion and Garment Makers: Midwest, in the Netherlands 97 Ohio, Cleveland 58 Mariangela Lavanga, Erasmus University Noel Palomo-Lovinski, Kent State Rotterdam, NL University, USA 3.3 Sustainability in the Textiles and 2.3 Classing California s Wool: Clothing Fashion Industry: An From Local to Global Ongoing Study in Portugal 100 Networks 61 Ana Cristina Broega, University ofMinho, Jennifer Hoover and Susan B. Kaiser, Portugal University of California, Davis, USA 3.4 A Spotlight on: VIGGA.US: Sharing 2.4 A Spotlight on: Preloved Baby Clothes in a Sustainable (Canada) 71 Product-Service System lio Doris Treptow-Kovacs, Savannah Vibeke Riisberg, Design School Kolding, College ofArt and Design, USA Denmark 2.5 Sustainable Fashion in Canada: 3.5 Setting Out on a Journey Toward Unpacking the Spaces and Sustainable Luxury in Spain 113 Practices of "Made in Elena Salcedo Allende, far & sound and Canada" 74 Istituto Europeo di Design, Barcelona, Spain Taylor Brydges, Stockholm University, Sweden 3.6 A Spotlight on: Textile-Led Sustainable Innovation of Surface 2.6 A Spotlight on: Pratt Institute/ Coloration and Patterning for Brooklyn Fashion + Design Sportswear 126 Accelerator: "Keeping the Cart Laura Morgan, Loughborough University, UK Attached To the Florse" 83 Faith Kane, Massey University, New Zealand Deb Johnson/Pratt Brooklyn Fashion + John Tyrer, Loughborough University, UK Design Accelerator, USA Jinsong Shen, De Montfort University, UK PART THREE PART FOUR I EUROPE 86 ASIA (WESTERN, CENTRAL, SOUTH CENTRAL, 3.1 Sustainability and Garment I EASTERN) 131 Longevity in the UK High Street 87 4.1 Fashioning Sustainability in Alison Gwilt, University of South Australia, Hong Kong and China 132 Australia Gloria Wong and Benny Ding Leong, Alana James, Northumbria University, UK Hong Kong Polytechnic University iv CONTENTS 4.2 A Spotlight on: Successful PART FIVE Strategies and Gore Strengths SOUTHEAST ASIA AND of the Seif Employed Women's IOCEANIA 179 Association: Learning Milestones toward Building 5.1 Sustainable Fashion in Australia: Sustainable Fashion Raw Fiber, Fast Fashion, and New Organizations 144 Localism 180 Goutam Saha, Darniya Roy, and Alice Payne and Tiziana Ferrero-Regis, Harsha Rani, National Institute Queensland University of Technology, of Fashion Technology, India Australia 4.3 Collaborative Consumption 5.2 A Spotlight on: Sustainable for Small- and Medium-sized Australian Indigenous Fashion 191 Fashion Enterprises in Jennifer Craik and Kathleen South Korea 148 Horton, Queensland University of Eunsuk Hur, University ofLeeds, UK Technology, Australia 4.4 A Spotlight on: Examples of 5.3 Producing Sustainable Fashion: Sustainable Fashion in Made in Vietnam 194 Sri Lanka 160 Angela Finn, Royal Melbourne Institute of Sumith Gopura, University of Technology University, Australia Moratuwa, Sri Lanka Alice Payne, Queensland University of 5.4 A Spotlight on: Space Between: Technology, Australia Fashion Activism in New Zealand 204 Jennifer Whitty, Massey University, 4.5 Sustainable Anatolia: New Zealand Craft-Centered Design in Turkey 164 5.5 Fashion Practices in Cambodia: §ölen Kipöz, Izmir University of Contrasting Paradigms Between the Economics Export Apparel Industry and Small- Duygu Atalay, Beykent University, medium Enterprises in Cambodia 208 Turkey Lauren Solomon, Queensland University of Technology, Australia 4.6 A Spotlight on: Redress: A Gase Study of a Sustainable 5.6 A Spotlight on: Sustainability of Fashion Initiative Influencing Renting Wedding Dresses in Asian Consumption Practices in Regions 219 Hong Kong and Seoha Min, University of North Carolina at Asia 174 Greensboro, USA Anne Peirson-Smith, City University of Marilyn DeLong, University of Minnesota, Hong Kong, Hong Kong USA CONTENTS v PART SIX 6.4 A Spotlight on: Designing AFRICA AND THE MIDDLE Sustainable Indigenous Fabric and IEAST 222 Attire for Young Wonnen in Zimbabwe's Tertiary 6.1 A Case for Design-Led Institutions 246 Environmentally Sustainable Mercy Rugedhla, Solusi University, Zimbabwe Fashion Design Praxis in South Potlako Peoesele Disele, Africa 223 Richie Moalosi, and Desiree Smal, University of Johannesburg, Lily Clara Fidzani, University of Botswana, South Africa Botswana 6.2 A Spotlight on: Developing 6.5 Sustainable Fashion and the United Sustainable Fashion in South Arab Emirates Vision 2021 249 Africa: Sustainable Cotton Ayesha Siddequa, Founder and Creative Cluster 232 Director ofFuture Fashion, UAE Marsha A. Dickson, Huantian Cao, and Martha Carper, University of Delaware, USA 6.6 A Spotlight on: Shahira Mehrez, Egypt: The Continuation of 6.3 Challenges Preventing the Fashion Culture 259 Industry from Implementing Maggie Jonk, Ryerson University, Canada Sustainable Product Service Systems in Botswana and Concluding Remarks 263 Kenya 236 Alison Gwilt, Alice Payne, and Evelise Yaone Rapitsenyane, University of Anicet Rüthschilling Botswana Sophia Njeru, Machakos University, Kenya Resources 265 Richie Moalosi, University of Botswana Index 277 vi CONTENTS .
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