WINTER 2019 ISSUE 116 LIVE BETTER. SAVE MORE. INVEST WISELY. MAKE A DIFFERENCE. GREEN GREENAMERICA.ORG AMERICAN Unraveling the Industry It’s easy to ignore the huge influence garments have on workers and the planet. Luckily, activists and businesses are working to make the fashion industry better. If you wear clothes, you can too.

ARE THESE TRENDS WORKER- FROM FAST WHAT HAPPENS GREEN OR APPROVED SOCIAL TO FAIR TO UNWANTED GREENWASHED? p. 10 RESPONSIBILITY p. 20 FASHION p. 24 CLOTHES? p. 27 VisionCapital ColorLogo Ad 3/29/06 9:29 PM Page 1

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2 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG The High Cost of Clothes

1612 K St. NW, #600, Washington, DC 20006 • GreenAmerica.org ON’T PANIC—go organic. Green American #116 l Copyright 2019 D I often invoke this sage advice as I COMMUNICATIONS & GREEN AMERICA CENTER FOR speak around the country about our food PUBLICATIONS SOLUTIONS EDITOR Eleanor Greene DIRECTOR Erin Gorman system. As people learn about the climatic, ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sytonia Reid SR. FELLOW, environmental, and human health impacts EDITORIAL FELLOW Mary Meade STRATEGY & TRAINING EDITORIAL INTERN Asher Weinstein Krista Kurth, Ph.D of the industrial agriculture system, they get PROOFREADER Rob Hanson SENIOR FELLOW, STRATEGIC DESIGN & FACILITATION worried. Then they want to learn about how to TEMPLATE DESIGN Tania Kac Russ Gaskin PUBLICATION DESIGN stay healthy and be part of the solution. Clean Electronics Production Network Dennis Greenia, Eleanor Greene DIRECTOR Pamela Brody-Heine So be both warned and assured. As you turn ALISA DIGITAL COMMUNICATIONS DIRECTOR Shireen Karimi PROGRAM MANAGER Emma Kriss the pages of this issue and learn about the GRAVITZ DIGITAL DESIGN & Sustainable Food & Ag Programs toxic industrial fashion industry, you might COMMUNICATIONS SPECIALIST SENIOR DIRECTOR, Climate and Alec Badalov Agriculture Networks get concerned. But don’t despair, within these pages we also EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD Sarah Andrysiak provide you with lots of ideas for making choices about clothes Devra Davis, Ph.D: Environmental PROGRAMS MANAGER Charis Smith Health Trust • Clair Farley: Office of DIRECTOR, Carbon Farming that are healthy for you, workers, and the planet. Trans Initiatives, City & County of San Innovation Network Nana Firman: Francisco Global Muslim Mary Johnson Toxic industrial systems—food, energy, clothes, you name Climate Network • Catherine Coleman MANAGER, Regenerative Flowers: The Center for Earth Ethics/ it—provide cheap products at tremendous climatic, environ- Supply Working Group & Regional Alabama Center for Rural Enterprise, Regen Working Group mental, and human health costs. But since these toxic products CDC • Jacqueline Patterson: NAACP Jessica Hulse Dillon Environmental and Climate Justice are inexpensive, people often ask us: How can I afford things Program • Catherine Plume: (r)evolve DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMS • Tracy Fernandez Rysavy: formerly that are healthy and safe? of Green America• Vincent Schilling: DIRECTOR OF DEVELOPMENT & Indian Country Media Network ORGANIZATIONAL ADVANCEMENT When it comes to what you wear, here’s how to make sure you Kathy Harget can afford organic and for your closet: EXECUTIVE TEAM DEVELOPMENT MANAGER CEO/PRESIDENT Alisa Gravitz Kristin Brower o Buy less. If it doesn’t pass the “I’ll be loving it for many EXECUTIVE CO-DIRECTOR MAJOR GIFTS OFFICER Business, Investing, & Policy Christy Schwengel years test,” don’t buy it. Fran Teplitz o Mend, repurpose, and accessorize. Small fixes can make a EXECUTIVE CO-DIRECTOR MEMBERSHIP MARKETING Consumer & Corporate Engagement DIVISION DIRECTOR OF great new look—or make the clothes fit perfectly again. MEMBERSHIP MARKETING Todd Larsen o Prioritize used. There are great finds at thrift and con- EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Dana Christianson Davina Etwaroo MEMBERSHIP MARKETING signment stores, local and online. Or try borrowing from a MANAGER Rob Hanson CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP SERVICES ASSISTANT friend or hosting a clothing swap. The compliments I get RESPONSIBILITY PROGRAMS Mark Rakhmilevich DIVISION DIRECTOR Todd Larsen on my finds make my day. DONOR SERVICES, OPERATIONS, CLIMATE CAMPAIGNS DIRECTOR & DATABASE MANAGER o Skip the dry cleaning—and another dose of chemicals, Beth Porter Stephanie Demarest CLIMATE FELLOW Ayate Temsamani even on secondhand items. People spend more for dry FOOD CAMPAIGNS DIRECTOR ORGANIZATIONAL SYSTEMS cleaning a garment over its life than its original cost. If Jillian Semaan DIRECTOR OF FINANCE Bob Bulik FOOD CAMPAIGNS MANAGER ACCOUNTANT Michael Young you already have clothes that “require” dry cleaning, Jes Walton HUMAN RESOURCES DIRECTOR hand-washing or spot-treating at home will rarely do FOOD CAMPAIGNS FELLOW Dennis Greenia Kevin Fitzpatrick DATA ENTRY SPECIALIST & DEPOSIT harm to the garments. CLERK Deanna Tilden LABOR JUSTICE CAMPAIGNS I promise that anyone can cut their clothing budget and MANAGER Charlotte Tate FOUNDER/PRESIDENT EMERITUS look better than ever with these tips. After I went down the GREEN BUSINESS NETWORK® Paul Freundlich DIVISION DIRECTOR Fran Teplitz BOARD OF DIRECTORS non-toxic clothing path, people started asking me for fashion MEMBERSHIP & MARKETING Danielle Burns, Joanne Dowdell, MANAGER Scott Kitson advice—even my stylish nieces. Monica Flores, Paul Freundlich, MEMBER SERVICES ASSISTANT Alisa Gravitz, Shireen Karimi, Most importantly, you’ll be providing market pressure for the Mark Rakhmilevich Scott Kitson, Julie Lineberger, CERTIFICATION MANAGER Jeff Marcous, Deborah Momsen-Hudson, companies in the toxic industrial clothing system to clean up Abigail Rome Sara Newmark, Adam Ortiz, their acts. NETWORK FELLOW Mary Meade Deepak Panjwani, Meredith Sheperd In this case, don’t panic—take the non-toxic clothing path. GREEN CONSUMER MOBILIZATION & TECHNOLOGY Cover image: Start with the holidays and make it your New Year’s resolution. Dominique Drakeford IT & FACILITIES MANAGER Pat Keyes You’ll look and feel great—and so will your wallet! IT FELLOW George Millican by Timothy Smith.

CONTACT US AT: 800/58-GREEN • fax 202/331-8166 • GreenAmerica.org • [email protected] For the future, Your Green Life: Powered by Green America and Green American magazine (ISSN: 0885-9930) are free with Green America Individual Membership (starting at $20/year) or Green Business Network® Membership (starting at $130/year). For address changes or individual membership information use the above contact information. For Green Business Network information, email [email protected], call 202/872-5357, or visit greenbusinessnetwork.org. For article reprints, call 202/872-5307 or email [email protected]. P.S. Thanks to you, we’ve got lots of big victories this year to Pinterest.com/greenamerica Instagram.com/GreenAmerica_ celebrate for people and the planet. out these highlights Facebook.com/GreenAmerica Twitter.com/GreenAmerica and our big plans for next year on page six. Printed on 100% de-inked recycled fiber, elemental chlorine-free.

m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 3 ECO ACTIONS

THE SOCIAL JUSTICE AND ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES OF OUR TIME

The Green Economy Grows to $1.3 Trillion

A couple of examples of the green economy at work: At left, the solar energy sector continues to grow, about 50 percent each year since 2009, according to the Solar Energy Industry Association. At right, Green Business Network member Susan Welsand celebrates 27 years of running her business The Chile Woman m, which is also a People and Planet award winner (see p. 29).

The green economy has been driving increase as the sector booms. gather their own data based on private growth and job creation for years, despite A flourishing green economy also databases using real-world business and flying under the GDP radar. A new crosses party lines since most congres- transaction statistics. Their research, analysis shows that if the US wants to be sional districts supporting some form of published in October 2019, identified competitive with international economies clean energy projects are GOP-voting, as nearly 9.5 million Americans employed and stimulate job growth, it must tackle identified by the American Wind Energy in the green economy, generating $1.31 the climate crisis and clean the environ- Association. We dove deeper into these trillion per year. ment, according to researchers from the jobs in our Summer 2019 “Green Econo- The research also predicts growth in the University College London. my at Work” issue, which you can find at “low-carbon” sector, including green finance, The fastest growing job sectors in 2018 greenamerica.org/magazine. energy efficiency, and electric vehicles. In were in : solar installers Unfortunately, in 2013, Congress cut general, the green economy grew by more as number one, followed closely by wind budgeted funds for data collection on than 20 percent between 2013 and 2016. technicians at number two, according to green goods and services, preventing years These industries include environmental the Bureau of Labor Statistics. The 2019 of potential research analysis and forcing businesses, recycle and waste management, Clean Jobs America report found nearly analysts to chart trends from old data. This land remediation, and water treatment. 3.3 million Americans working in clean difficulty led green economy researchers These numbers are expected to climb as energy—that number is projected to Mark Maslin and Lucien Georgeson to the climate crisis advances.

4 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG dozen polluting interests can continue to the device. It is fitted with transmitters and make record profits,” said climate scientist sensors to communicate with a boat that will Only 20 Firms Behind Michael E. Mann to The Guardian. gather the plastic debris for every A Third of the World’s “Since these companies are producing few months. The plastic collected during the fuel for other industries, governments, and October announcement will be brought to Greenhouse Gas Emissions individuals, it underscores how essential it is shore in December. to shift to renewables and leave this oil, gas System 001/B faced several setbacks The twenty largest fossil fuel companies and coal in the ground,” says Alisa Gravitz, before its recent success. Last year, the are responsible for 35 percent of all Green America’s president/CEO. device failed to catch any plastic because energy-related greenhouse gas emissions it was moving the same speed as the trash. released between 1965 and 2017. The Dutch scientists of Ocean Cleanup added companies range from recognizable names an underwater parachute as an anchor. like Chevron, Exxon, BP, and Shell, to Innovating a New Way to Also last year, wind and waves stressed the state-owned companies like Saudi Aramco barrier, causing it to break and requiring and Gazprom. Clean Up Ocean Plastic four months of repairs. Lastly, the system The research by Richard Heede and A huge ocean-cleaning device successfully faced “over-topping,” where waves pushed Climate Institute names the captured and removed plastic from the plastic over the line of floating corks that fossil fuel corporations directly involved Great Pacific Garbage Patch. Boyan Slat, hold the screen. This was solved with the in the climate crisis. These companies creator of the nonprofit Ocean Cleanup addition of larger corks. continue to exploit the world’s oil, gas, that is responsible for the machine, tweeted Ocean Cleanup plans to launch another and coal reserves despite knowing the in early October that the 2,000-foot long cleaning device which will be able to endure catastrophic impact their actions have. free-floating boom has captured debris the strains of the ocean environment and These companies have released a total of ranging from microplastics to one-ton retain collected plastic for longer periods 480 billion tons of carbon emissions into the abandoned fishing nets. of time than its predecessor. The current atmosphere. Since 1965, Chevron, Exxon, BP, After seven years of trial and error, the system aims to collect 50 percent of debris and Shell have contributed to more than 10 device—called System 001/B—filters out from the Great Pacific Garbage Patch in the percent of the world’s total emissions. The plastic as ocean currents pass through the next five years. top polluter is Saudi Aramco, producing 4.3 system. Given that eight million metric tons “If this succeeds, it will help clean up percent of the global total alone. of plastic ends up in the ocean every year, the plastic pollution already in the ocean,” The research found that 90 percent of according to Ocean Conservancy, System says Todd Larsen, executive co-director of carbon and methane emissions were from 001/B brings hope to the plastic crisis. consumer and corporate engagement at the burning of products like gasoline, jet fuel, The device itself is a U-shaped barrier with Green America. “It’s even more important to natural gas, and thermal coal. The remaining a net extended ten feet below the ocean stop it at its source by reducing the use of 10 percent came from extraction (including surface. Marine animals can swim safely under plastic, along with reusing and recycling.” fracking), refining, and delivering finished fu- els. Half of global carbon emissions recorded since 1751 were released after 1988. This analysis—particularly when read with recent IPCC reports warning the world has less than 11 years to tackle the climate crisis and that one million species are at risk of extinction—draws a grim picture of the future humanity faces. It demonstrates that the fossil fuel industry has spent billions lobbying government and marketing themselves as environmentally responsible. Chevron, BP, Shell, ExxonMobil, and Total spend around $200 million a year lobbying against climate policy, according to a 2019 report by InfluenceMap. “The great tragedy of the climate crisis is that seven and a half billion people From Boyan Slat via Twitter must pay the price—in the form of a Some of the plastic collected by System 001/B system, outlined by the degraded planet—so that a couple of cork barrier that holds up the screen. m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 5 ACROSS GREEN AMERICA

NEWS FROM OUR PROGRAMS AND MEMBERS GreenAmerica.org Green America’s 2019 Victories and New Campaigns

Thanks to you, we accomplished the extraordinary this year! Here is just a sample of Green America campaigns that are pushing the largest companies to address the climate crisis and end rampant pollution.

Together, we’re curbing the climate crisis by getting the dirtiest corporations to switch to clean energy. We’re protecting millions of people by taking cancer-causing chemicals out of electronics and garment manufacturing so workers and consumers are safer. And we are reinventing the way food is grown with regenerative agriculture that sequesters carbon, reduces toxic pesticides, and heals our soil.

Campaign began Hang Up On Fossil Fuels in 2017 The telecom industry was using almost no renewable energy. Thanks to our campaign, all major companies have made big commitments to renewable energy.

X Results Next Steps Green America’s Work T-Mobile is using 95 percent Keep the renewable energy. We mobilized tens of pressure on thousands of consumers AT&T is using 50 percent renewables. Verizon to enter and generated media Sprint will soon be at 20 percent into clean energy pressure to urge the renewables. contracts and industry to move to Verizon has committed rapidly shift to renewables. to 50 percent renewables by 2025. renewables.

Amazon—Build a Cleaner and Fairer Cloud When we started putting the pressure on, Amazon was using no renewable energy to power its massive servers. Now, thanks to you, Amazon has a 100 percent commitment Campaign began and a real plan to get there. in 2014

Green Results Next Steps America’s Amazon is Work using over Get Amazon to We worked with 50 percent move to 100 consumers, clean energy percent clean shareholders, and has energy by 2020 and allies to committed to and address its put pressure on 100 percent by massive labor Amazon. 2030. abuses.

6 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG Campaign began in 2017 Drawing CO2 into the Soil Regenerative agriculture is a set of practices which will improve depleted soils, improve crop health, and draw carbon out of the atmosphere and into the ground. It has the potential to reverse climate change!

Green America’s Work Results Next Steps Our Carbon Farming Network works with We created the Soil Help thousands companies, farmers, and other major stakeholders Carbon Index (SCI) to more farmers and in implementing regenerative agriculture practices. help all regenerative companies use the Our Climate Victory Gardens (CVG) program farmers measure carbon SCI, bring CVGs empowers everyday people to use their gardens to sequestered in the soil. to under-served fight climate change. Our Soil Superheroes program Our climate victory communities, and amplifies the voices of people and companies who gardens campaign grow to 5,000 are already leaders in regenerative agriculture. reached 2,000 gardens. gardens nationwide.

Toxic Textiles New in 2019! The textile industry uses 43 million tons of chemicals each year and causes 20 percent of industrial water pollution. Workers, communities, consumers, and the environment all suffer.

Green America’s Results Next Steps Work Thousands of Host national days of We published our hard- consumers are hitting Toxic Textiles report, taking action action to put pressure ranking 13 top brands on with us, we’re on Carter’s. Educate the issue and we launched getting media consumers about avoiding a campaign to push Carter’s attention, and toxins in clothing. Highlight to address toxic chemicals Carter’s is on companies taking the lead in baby and kids’ clothing. the defensive. to address chemicals.

Cool It! HFC refrigerants are a powerful driver of climate change. They are released at lower rates

than CO2, but can be up to 9,000 times more potent. Supermarkets are a major source of emissions that are equal to 9.5 million cars on the road. New in 2019!

Green America’s Results Next Steps Work Thousands of people have taken We’re pushing Walmart, Working with our ally, Environmental action and Walmart responded the nation’s largest Investigation Agency, we’ll keep the publicly to the campaign. grocery store and a pressure on Walmart while offering laggard on refrigerants, solutions. We’ll also take on other to reduce leaks and move major retailers and help people take to better technologies. action in their states to advance laws and regulations to phase out HFCs.

m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 7

REAL GREEN Investing

Organizers with the Defund Hate Campaign honored those killed in ICE and Customs and Border Protection (CBP) facilities with photos and banners displayed in the Senate Rotunda in Washington, D.C., in June 2019. The campaign demands cuts to funding for ICE and CBP. Photo courtesy of the American Friends Service Committee. Big Banks Leaving the Private Prison Business After consumer pressure, megabanks finally begin to moves away from financing private prisons, including those that detain immigrants.

T THE US’ Southern border, and our ally the Interfaith Center on the In The Public Interest. That these Aimmigrant families are held for Corporate Responsibility), and share- banks will no longer be issuing new unknown amounts of time in facilities holders. Wells Fargo, Bank of America, loans or lines of credit to private prison that are often grossly overcrowded and SunTrust, JPMorgan Chase, PNC, BNP companies is a huge win for activists understaffed. Across the country, citi- Paribas, Fifth Third Bancorp, Barclays, and organizations that have been push- zens in prison face similar conditions. and U.S. Bancorp all announced that ing for banks to take accountability. What these facilities have in common they will no longer issue loans to the GEO Group and CoreCivic are con- is that they’re both private prisons. two largest private prison operators, tracted by US Immigration and Cus- Private prisons hold about nine percent CoreCivic and GEO Group. toms Enforcement (ICE), the Federal of the nation’s total prison By funding their operations, big banks Bureau of Prisons, and the US Marshals and about 73 percent of immigrant have been complicit in the human Service to run facilities that hold detainees, reports the New York Times. crises that continue to unfold in private immigrants. Private prison operators This year, banks responded to prisons. By the end of 2016, just four earn substantial profits from detention wide-spread pressure from social of those megabanks had $2.6 billion as the number of detainees increases. justice groups, corporate responsibility in lines of credit and loans invested in There are a growing number of re- organizations (including Green America CoreCivic and GEO Group, according to ports of inhumane conditions in these

8 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG facilities, especially as such a high “Over the last 5 years, the American The private prison sector is already percentage of immigrants are placed Friends Service Committee (AFSC) has feeling the impact of the eight banks’ there. Some of these conditions are been putting together a map of the decision to stop issuing future loans. In violations of human, civil, and political prison industry as a whole, which is October 2019, TruthOut reported that rights outlined by the United Nations. not just the companies that operate GEO Group had officially run out of There is now a class action lawsuit private prisons but all of the companies banks to borrow from, representing an that was filed in Los Angeles this that profit from mass incarceration,” 87 percent drop in funding. August on behalf of 55,000 people in says Dalit Baum, director of economic ICE detention centers, alleging severe activism at the AFSC. “Despite the Move Your Money mistreatment, including in facilities fact that the majority of US prisons As the megabanks continue to fulfill run by GEO Group. Twenty-four people are publicly run, the entire system is their current contracts to prison com- have died in ICE facilities since Donald deeply privatized, from bail bonds, to panies, one big way concerned investors Trump became president, according to telecoms, to food services.” and activists can take action to end the an NBC News analysis of federal data. The AFSC built a free online di- private prison system is to use Green Though eight banks have bowed to vestment platform called Investigate, America’s Get a Better Bank directory pressure from justice reform groups and which allows people to scan their (greenamerica.org/getabetterbank) to concerned investors, five smaller banks investments for companies with ties to find community development financial have not yet made institutions that the commitment: do not support Regions Financial Private prisons hold roughly nine percent of for-profit prisons. Corporation, Some CDFIs, like Citizens Financial the US incarcerated population, but almost Self-Help Credit Group, Pinnacle three quarters of people detained by Union m , even Financial Partners, works to have a First Tennessee ICE are held in privately funded facilities. positive impact Partners, and in the justice Synovus Bank. according to research from system, instead of Following the The New York Times and Freedom for Immigrants simply not having momentum of a negative one. One the megabanks’ way they do that is announcements, Green America joined the mass incarceration and detention by working with legislators to end the a coalitional letter to urge these five industries, and take action. You can cash bail system. banks to thoroughly review the human find it online at afsc.org/investigate. “Much like payday lending, cash bail rights impacts of their financial ties to results in creating a cycle of poverty private prisons. Banks Change Policy, among those with the least financial An Important First Step means,” says Jennifer Marsh, executive Companies Profit from In response to organized campaigns, staff at Self-Help Credit Union. “Being Prison & Detention Centers public outcry, and banks’ own risk incarcerated for as little as 24 hours can Private prisons hold roughly nine assessments, more financial institu- lead to job loss, lost custody of children, percent of the US incarcerated popula- tions are stopping new investment in and increases the chances a person tion, but almost three quarters of peo- for-profit private prisons. All banks that will have future involvement with the ple detained by ICE are held in privately have committed to this have also agreed criminal justice system.” funded facilities. Of those, most are run to fulfill their current contracts, some of For more information on divestment by CoreCivic and GEO Group, showing which won’t expire until 2024 or 2025. from for-profit prisons and fossil the companies’ dominance in the “It’s hard to describe this in terms fuels, read our article “Taking Stock of private prison sector and their reliance of divestment because what the banks Divestment Movements” at on tough immigration policies. have said is that they will no longer greenamerica.org/divestingnews2019. “In memos to their shareholders, extend credit,” says Nadira Narine, se- Individually and collectively, our both companies [GEO Group and nior program director at the Interfaith economic actions make a difference CoreCivic] acknowledge that policies Center for Corporate Responsibility every day and can bring us closer to with the potential to reduce the US de- (ICCR).“On the asset management side, the kind of world we need in which all tainee population constitute potential all of these companies still invest their communities are healthy and safe. —Medha Chidambaram, Sytonia Reid, risk factors to their business model,” clients in GEO Group and CoreCivic, so and Eleanor Greene according to an August 2019 report from in terms of equities they’re still very the Center for American Progress. much invested.” m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 9

REAL GREEN Living

Madewell, Target, and other brands are offering Fair Trade Certified clothing, but you can’t trust every label. Photo from Madewell. Are These Trends Green or Greenwashed? We fact-checked the claims of trendy companies advertising green options.

INALLY, it’s not hard to find green most of the categories we looked at. this certification, instead of a stronger Fand ethical clothing in mainstream Unfortunately, one of the areas where one like Fairtrade America or Fairtrade stores. While it’s a great thing in concept we found it fell short was in factory International. Unfortunately, those that fair trade and sustainable fabrics are safety reporting. labels are more likely to be found on in front of millions of shoppers, green Both Madewell’s and Target’s chocolate bars or bananas than clothing claims are worth checking out. Green denim lines hold the Fair Trade Factory in US stores. So, when it comes to America looked into popular brands with Certified label from Fair Trade USA. fashion, a good label to look for is GOTS “green” offerings, Madewell, Target, Unfortunately, the label may not be Certified (see p. 17), as it addresses Everland, and H&M to see if they are truly as strong as customers think, partly organic content, added chemicals, green or just . because it only certifies the factory and labor through the production of where the garments are sewn, not a garment (though not including the Fair Trade where cotton is grown, dyed, or woven. harvesting of any crops). at Madewell and Target Labor and environmental abuses occur And when it comes to buying denim, You can get a pair of jeans for around frequently lower in the supply chain. your best bets are buying used or from $130 from Madewell’s Fair Trade By not verifying those conditions, truly green companies; see the box on Certified line. Madewell is owned by companies leave themselves open to the opposite page on how to identify J.Crew, which got one of our lowest the risk of profiting off of human and those green companies. You can read scores on Green America’s Toxic Textiles environmental exploitation. more about what truly fair trade supply Scorecard (see p. 15) because of its lack Anna Canning, campaigns manager chains look like in “From Fast to Fair of in its sustainability and at Fair World Project, a fair trade Fashion” on p. 24. labor policies—if it has policies on those watchdog agency, explains that the Fair issues, it’s keeping them a secret. Trade Certified factories are inspected Radically Transparent Target’s Fair Trade Certified jeans once a year and even those workers Everlane cost around $40 a pair. Target was the rarely take home a living wage. Everlane came onto the ethical top-rated company in Green America’s Even companies that have a strong clothing scene in 2010 and has gained Toxic Textiles report, because it clearly record on organic and recycled popularity with its tagline, “radical reports its environmental and social materials, like Pact Apparel and transparency.” It’s rare for customers policies and shares its progress in Patagonia, both produce clothes using to see supply chain information next

10 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG to sizes and price—with each product, of the 20 global brands assessed in the you can click through a series of links report were paying a living wage. to learn about the factories where the “H&M’s constant demand for new piece is produced. pushes unrealistic produc- But what you end up learning tion times on suppliers, all while isn’t quite “radical.” For example, it asking for extraordinarily low prices identifies the factory where a cashmere for those products,” says Charlotte sweater was made, but gives no Tate, labor justice campaigns manager information about workers’ pay, nor of at Green America. “Workers and our the practices used by farmers that raise planet end up bearing the brunt of the goats needed to create the textile; this unsustainable model.” it says only that the cashmere comes from Mongolia. Finding Truly Green Clothing Even though Everlane emphasizes The moral of this story is to check on paper the importance of good out company claims. When it comes to craftsmanship and timless pieces, finding truly green products, clothing Good on You says “Everlane fails to or anything else, the key is to do your live up to its own hype.” Everlane research and ask questions. A great has not adopted any meaningful place to start is with the clothing standards like fair trade, organic, or section at GreenPages.org, where you others (see p. 17 for certifications we can find businesses that have gone through Green America’s rigorous trust). Everlane declined to comment Everlane claims to have greener offerings than their certification program and are Certified on its knowledge of farmers working competitors, but is that true? Photo from Everlane. down the supply chain in cashmere Green Businesses. The most sustain- able garments are those that last a long and cotton. The company also does not report and found that it was not paying time, so consider buying secondhand disclose its supplier code of conduct or its factory workers down the supply and higher quality new items to make its sustainability policies, which leaves chain enough to pay for basic needs the most of every piece. consumers unable to compare it to other such as housing, health care, food, and —Eleanor Greene companies. In short, its transparency is education for children. In fact, none radically underwhelming.

Eco-Conscious H&M RESOURCES FOR FACT-CHECKING Each piece in H&M’s Conscious GREEN CLOTHES CLAIMS collection includes at least some When you walk into a store or find yourself on a website where things seem to organic cotton, recycled polyester, or have “green marketing,” it’s a good idea to do a little research for yourself. Tencel. Paired with the brands’ in-store Step 1: Look closely at the label and tags or online listing for the product. Does clothing recycling program, H&M might it back up claims like “natural” or “sustainable” with certifications or be looking pretty green; but these explanations? programs aren’t indicative of H&M as a Step 2: If you’re not already online, pull up the brand’s website. Look around for whole. Only 0.1 percent of donations to a sustainability page. On that page, do they identify specific processes, or its in-store recycling boxes are recycled just speak vaguely about valuing people and/or planet? into new textiles, admitted Henrik Step 3: If you’re coming up short or only finding vague information, look deeper. Lampa, H&M’s Development Sustain- This article was informed by knowledge gained in creating our 2019 ability Manager in 2016. Toxic Textiles Report, which includes a scorecard rating 20 top H&M’s business model is to keep companies selling clothes in the US based on what they are doing to people coming back into stores often for protect the environment and treat people well. Other sources shoppers inexpensive clothes—to do that, it brings can use to investigate green or fair claims are ’s cheap new looks into stores about every Fashion Transparency Index or the Clean Clothes Campaign’s . other day, which satisfies customers’ Tailored Wages report tastes for novelty. It’s a wasteful The website and app Good On You has a database with rankings for clothing and shoe brands on a five-point scale, from “We Avoid” to “Great” based on company model—after the 2017 holiday season, policies/practices regarding the environment, labor, and use of animal products. H&M reported it had an inventory of Of course, GreenPages.org includes only Green Business Network members unsold clothing worth $4.3 billion. certified through Green America’s rigorous process, which you can learn about at The Clean Clothes Campaign in- greenbusinessnetwork.org. cluded H&M in its 2019 Tailored Wages m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 11 12 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG T h e G r e e n A m e r i c a n F e at u r e UNRAVELING the Fashion Industry It’s easy to ignore the huge influence garments have on workers and the planet. Luckily, activists and businesses are working to make the fashion industry better. If you wear clothes, you can too.

OR MANY OF US, fashion is fun. It’s a chance to to create safer factories. Under pressure from Fshow the world who we are. For others, getting groups like Green America and labor-minded dressed might be a chore. However you look at consumers, over 200 brands signed on, covering your closet, it’s affecting the Earth—the fashion 1600 factories and two million workers. Read industry has a bigger climate impact than air travel more about worker-led and maritime shipping combined. projects like the Accord in “Worker Tested, According to Elizabeth Cline (author of Worker Approved Social Responsibility” (p. 20). Overdressed, a book that helped document fast The Rana Plaza tragedy also engaged millions fashion and bring new attention to the ethical of consumers in the fight for safer workplaces, fashion movement), Americans buy one out of even those across the globe. Fashion Revolution, five garments made in the world. The number the world’s largest fashion activism movement, of garments purchased each year by the average has teams operating in over 100 countries and consumer increased by 60 percent just from 2000 promotes the hashtags #whomademyclothes to 2014, and shoppers kept them half as long. and #imadeyourclothes to bring greater trans- For over 30 years, Green America has been ac- parency into the industry. tive in greening the apparel industry by putting “Amongst the brands and retailers we have pressure on the largest companies including reviewed over the past three years, we have seen Nike, Hanes, and Gap, to address sweatshop a nine percent increase in their average score,” says Carry Somers, co-founder of Fashion labor in their supply chains. Our latest work Revolution. “We see transparency as a means to on the issue is our Toxic Textiles Report, which change, not the endgame. Transparency helps focuses on the fashion industry’s influence on to reveal the structures in place so we can better climate, the environment, and worker health. understand how to change them.” Our report found that the industry uses around As always, the green economy is pushed ever 43 million tons of chemicals to turn raw materi- forward by small, innovative, green businesses, als into textiles this year. like the leaders in our Green Business Network— Toxic chemicals abound in the industry—they’re read the stories of businesses on the front lines added in agriculture, dyeing, and finishing textiles of in “Bringing More Color (see “Unpacking Toxic Textiles” on p. 14). For to Green Fashion (p. 22) and “From Fast to Fair products like polyester, nylon, and other man- Fashion” (p. 24). made materials, chemicals are part of production —Eleanor Greene, editor from the start, too. Workers who interact with

these chemicals are not always provided with Read my full interview with Elizabeth Cline at safety information or protective equipment. greenamerica.org/magazine. But there is much progress to report. The 2013 tragedy at the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh sparked anew a global interest in fair wages and safe workplaces. One victory that came from Facing page photo credits: Top row, from left; Source My Garment, Fashion Revolution, Forever21. Middle row: Extinction the disaster was the creation of the Bangladesh Rebellion, Clean Clothes Campaign. Bottom row: Extinction Accord, in which brands work with labor groups Rebellion, Fashion Revolution, Maven Women

m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 13 Courtesy of the Clean Clothes Campaign Unpacking Toxic Textiles Business as usual in the garment industry is bad for people and the planet, from agriculture to factories, from stores to our closets.

F YOU GO TO A FOREVER 21 location environmental degradation. Green using materials that present dangers for Itwo months in a row, odds are that America’s labor justice campaigns their labor force. practically nothing about the clothing manager Charlotte Tate says it is Further, less than one percent of selection will look the same. Forever 21 crucial for individuals to know exactly the resources used to make clothing played a massive role in popularizing what toxic chemicals could be in their are captured and reused to create new , and as Green America’s clothing, especially given the lack of clothing. Although many people donate Toxic Textiles report recently found, transparency in the industry. their unwanted clothing, many of workers and the Earth pay a massive “Currently, companies are deciding those clothes go unused after donation, price for these seasonal looks, exposing what chemicals are okay for consumers eventually also becoming trash (see workers to hazardous conditions and to be exposed to and at what levels, “What Really Happens to Unwanted polluting our water, soil, and air. and companies are making those same Clothes” on p. 27). This failure to Between 2000 and 2015, clothing pro- decisions for workers,” says Tate. create a cyclical system of clothing duction almost doubled, from about 50 “Information about what chemicals reuse means that most textile sales billion pieces a year to over 100 billion are being used at all tiers of the supply are of new products, accelerating the pieces a year. In addition, the amount of chains must be made public, so that release of chemicals. clothing Americans dispose of annually the deciding power is not only with has almost tripled during that time. companies trying to maximize profits.” Water Use and Pollution Green America recently investigated Textile producers and clothing Water pollution is the most notable sustainability practices in the clothing companies not only largely fail to impact of clothing production, with industry, revealing how the push commit to environmental sustainability, around 20 percent of global industrial towards fast fashion has resulted their increased activity threatens the water pollution traceable directly back in significant carbon emissions and water supply and soil quality, while also to the textiles industry. The pollution

14 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG Scorecard of Environmental & Social Practices of Major US Apparel Companies

ALT. CHEMICAL FACTORY FACTORY WATER WASTE & is multifaceted and affects all COMPANY RESOURCES MGMT LIST SAFETY MGMT RECYCLING aspects of water ecosystems, Target from chemical contamination of drinking water to the spread VF (The North Face) of microplastics into waterways Nike around the world. Gap (Old Navy, Banana Republic) Target, VF (which owns The North Face and Jansport), Nike, Ascena Retail (Ann Taylor) and Gap have all introduced Ralph Lauren Manufacturing Restricted Substances Lists (MRSL) and Walmart Restricted Substances Lists (RSL) Abercrombie to eliminate the use of some & Fitch chemicals that harm workers and American Eagle consumers. These lists are an The Children’s Place excellent first step, with a MRSL URBN (Urban Outfitters, restraining what can be used in Anthropologie, Free People) the manufacturing process and a Carter’s (Osh Kosh B’Gosh) RSL dictating what can be in the final product. The reality is that J. Crew (Madewell) the vast majority of chemical Forever 21 exposure is to workers—some A indicates that the company has a detailed policy described and shares its benchmarks/progress. A indicates that the company states that it has a exposure occurs when consumers policy, but there are no details about how it measures progress and/or what its goals are. For chemical management, a indicates that the company has a chemical policy that addresses consumer safety but does not have one that addresses chemicals used in the manufacturing process. A indicates that get the clothes, but much more there was no publicly available information on a policy for this category. While the company may have an internal policy, it is not currently being shared with the consumer. to the worker. Graphic by Cheri Johnson for Green America “Companies need to work with their Green America’s Toxic Textiles Microplastics suppliers to ensure that the MRSL is report also found that the bamboo Unfortunately, chemicals aren’t the being implemented appropriately,” Tate used in some shirts involves a more only harmful substances polluting water notes. “Companies need to be paying chemical-intensive process to make as a result of the textile industry. At ev- enough for their products so that the the material soft. Like bamboo, rayon ery step of the manufacturing process, supplier is able to implement the MRSL, fabric (and its variant, lyocell) is derived including after the product reaches the and all apparel companies should come from raw materials in wood pulp, which consumer, microplastics can be released together and agree on one complete and go through energy- and chemical-in- into our waterways. When synthetic holistic MRSL and RSL—raising industry tensive processes with to become a fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic standards across the board.” semi-synthetic material. The chemicals break down, they release microfibers, The impacts of chemicals banned used generally aren’t recaptured but another form of microplastic. in the final product but allowed in instead are released into waterways. The global spread of microplastics the manufacturing process, like dyes, Cotton is among the most water- was discovered relatively recently but polyfluorinated chemicals, and flame intensive crops and both organic and is a cause for major concern, both for retardants, are striking. In China, 70 conventional clothing manufacturers the uncertain health effects on humans percent of the rivers and lakes are consume enormous amounts in both polluted, and in Bangladesh, the Burig- farming and textile production. An and the deaths of aquatic animals that anga River is so polluted with toxic astonishing 2,700 liters of water are have consumed these microfibers. chemicals and heavy metals prevalent required to grow the cotton needed to When washing clothes using materials in the leather tanning industry that it make a single t-shirt. These watering prone to shedding microfibers, each load can no longer sustain aquatic life. practices are especially harmful in the releases as many as 700,000 microfibers Even alternatives to conventional primary cotton-growing countries into the water. These tiny plastics spread textile production cause environmental as they often face water scarcity but quickly, and when they accumulate in degradation. Organic cotton is grown need to continue cotton production to the digestive systems of oceanic animals, without toxic chemicals, but unless maintain their economy. In Kyrgyzstan, they can be fatal. With their health the clothes are certified under GOTS, where water is both contaminated and effects largely unknown but potentially bluesign®, or Oeko-Tex certifications, scarce, many civilians have no access hazardous, this spread is concerning. toxic chemicals may be added in the to clean drinking water, even as cotton “You and I and everybody else textile production process. producers use thousands of liters. on earth is drinking and bleeding m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 15 “Chemicals used to produce clothing can disrupt hormone systems, harm liver health, or cause cancer. Brands have a responsibility to ensure that workers in their supply chain have a safe and healthy workplace and that their basic right to health is not violated by the chemicals used to make clothes.” —Charlotte Tate, Labor Justice Campaigns Manager microfibers,” says Dimitri Deheyn, a a chemical that can cause insanity, Bangladesh, officials don’t enforce marine biology researcher at University Parkinsonism, and birth defects. the need to inform workers about the of California in San Diego, who spoke Conventional cotton is very likely dangers of the chemicals or provide about microfibers at the Unveiling to be grown from genetically modified them adequate safety equipment. Wet Fashion conference in Washington, seeds, which often increase the use of processing plants are far down the DC, in September 2019. “There are no pesticides on the crop. Cotton produc- supply chain from the companies and studies whatsoever on the effect of tion has also increased over the past get less attention as a result. microfibers made of plastic on public few years, as an increase in clothing Companies can help protect their health, […] we’re just starting to look demand drives farmers to extreme workers by restricting the types of at this toxic aspect of microfibers.” measures to keep up. The scale means chemicals used in their clothing, But contamination is not the only neg- farmers are prevented from planting a but until that occurs, workers are ative effect on water that occurs during more diverse set of crops, which could threatened at every step of the process. the textile manufacturing process. help maintain the integrity of the soil This starts with the field workers, and which also require less water. See endangered by the cocktail of pesticides Air, Soil and Agriculture p. 18 to read more about regenerative sprayed on conventional cotton crops. Many of the same chemicals that and conventional cotton. “Chemicals used to produce clothing contaminate water end up in the soil can disrupt hormone systems, harm as well, affecting agriculture as more Exposing Workers to liver health, or cause cancer,” says land becomes less arable. Additionally, Toxic Chemicals Tate. “Brands have a responsibility to irresponsible sourcing practices for the With sweatshop labor notably prom- ensure that workers in their supply raw materials also threatens endan- inent in the textile industry, worker chain have a safe and healthy work- gered ecosystems, including rainforests safety is rarely a priority in textile place and that their basic right to and heavily deforested areas. factories. However, increased textile health is not violated by the chemicals This impacts even supposedly sustain- production and the widespread use of used to make clothes.” able materials, including rayon, a com- chemicals in many developed countries mon silk substitute. Rayon is made with also threatens these workers. Consumer Activism wood pulp, which is regularly sourced Polyester textiles, used in 55 percent as a Solution from endangered or protected forests. of all clothing production, rely on the For three decades, Green America Worse, 60 to 70 percent of the wood pulp use of heavy metals, like antimony, a has been active in greening the apparel is lost in the process. As a result, rayon possible carcinogen, as well as known industry, by pushing companies like Nike, production fuels the deforestation crisis carcinogens, like cadmium and lead. Hanes, and Gap, to address sweatshop and requires vast amounts of wood for Research from the National Institutes of labor in their supply chains. relatively little fabric. Health shows that occupational expo- Transparency is the first step in Wood pulp harvesting, particularly sure to antimony can cause respiratory, creating a safer textile industry. As con- when done in endangered forests, skin, and gastrointestinal symptoms, sumers learn about key issues, they can accelerates deforestation, which has and may even cause cancer. Too often, begin to protect themselves, workers, wide-reaching effects on biodiversity. It factory workers who may encounter and the environment from extreme is unfortunately part of the production such toxic materials are not notified pollution. The first and most important process for rayon, viscose, and lyocell. about safety procedures or given proper thing for people to do is reduce their Removed trees can no longer enrich the equipment to reduce exposure. consumption of new clothes. Even the soil and air, negatively affecting the forest It’s not only polyester—nearly every alternatives to conventional textiles ecology. Degradation also occurs at the textile material undergoes the wet aren’t without their own concerns. As manufacturing stage; Rayon manufactur- processing phase of production, where Green America’s report makes clear, ing factories in China contribute to severe dyeing and chemical processing takes there are no true leaders in this field, air and water pollution, and residential place. Too often, workers lack proper only relative successes. areas near factories have reported protection. In countries with these wet “Brands are great at making big, dangerous levels of carbon disulfide, processing factories, like China and vague commitments that don’t deliver

16 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG Green America’s Clothing Pocket Guide Clip out this handy guide out, or snap a photo with your phone, and take it with you the implied impact,” says Tate. “And when you shop for new clothing. on top of this, a majority of the com- FABRICS mitments are voluntary, meaning there Eco-friendly fabrics: Bamboo lyocell • Certified organic soy, cotton, hemp, and linen are no repercussions if the company • TENCEL® with a trademade symbol• MODAL® with a trademark symbol • SeaCell • does not meet its commitment.” Raw silk • VISCOSE® with a trademark symbol Green America and our members Purchase with caution: Angora • Cashmere • Wool • Conventional hemp • Conventional have a large role to play. With workers linen • Conventional silk often unable to advocate for them- Avoid these fabrics: Bamboo rayon • Conventional cotton • Small-m modal • Nylon • selves in factories, consumer pressure Polyester • Rayon • Non-organic soybean fiber • Small-v viscose may be the best way to advocate for ethical and environmentally sustain- TRUSTWORTHY LABELS able textile production. Some clothing manufacturers don’t put these on their labels, so check websites or contact Other organizations have also joined the manufacturer and ask questions. the push for more responsible textile BLUESIGN production, as our ally Stand.earth Ensures that clothing is not exposed to a list of harmful chemicals pressures Levi’s to put in place firm cli- throughout the supply chain, from raw materials to finished product. mate commitments for their overseas production facilities. CERTIFIED ORGANIC “Consumers have a lot of power with Ensures that the raw materials used to make the clothing were grown without chemical fertilizers and pesticides. However, it doesn’t prevent the textile industry. Millennial and Gen clothing from being coated with toxic finishes. Z consumers especially are shifting their purchasing to companies that treat their FAIR TRADE (Fairtrade Americam , Fair Trade workers well, use fewer toxic chemicals, Federation m, , Fair for Life) All go beyond basic factory and create durable clothes,” says Todd verification to create systems that ensure workers Larsen, Green America’s executive who grow raw materials or make clothing earn a co-director for consumer and corporate living wage and labor under healthy conditions. engagement. “This shift in purchasing has drastically reduced sales at fast GREEN BUSINESS NETWORK fashion companies like Forever 21, Green America screens clothing businesses to ensure a commitment to fair which just declared bankruptcy.” labor, environmental , use of eco-fabrics, and no toxic dyes or Kids clothier Carter’s (which also finishes. owns OshKosh B’gosh), is a major GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD (GOTS) polluter, but their defensive response The GOTS requires that clothing bearing its “made with organic” label to questions about their process shows contain 70 percent organic fibers and those bearing the GOTS “Organic” how these companies want to be seen as label be 95 percent organic. Clothing with either label must not be treated and how they with prohibited toxic dyes or finishes, and all suppliers must comply with will fight to protect their image. Since standards to minimize waste and ensure that workers labor under fair conditions. the launch of Green America’s campaign to pressure Carter’s into improving their OEKO-TEX 100 supply chain, almost 7,000 concerned This independent certification system limits the use of chemicals in people have signed on. everything from raw materials to finished clothes. The systematic failure of textile producers and clothing companies to SA8000 protect their workers and the environ- A designation from Social Accountability International (SAI), applied to ment outlined in the Green America factories and farms that uphold standards for social responsibility and report shows the necessity of this labor rights. action. And as Larsen notes, customers ZQ MERINO WOOL can make their voices heard. Certifies wool from New Zealand farms that meet its standards of animal “This is the same approach we used welfare and environmental sustainability. to address toxins in the electronics sector, and it works.” UNION-MADE PRIVATE LABELS Indicate that your clothes were made by workers who were allowed to organize and —adapted from Green America’s 2019 advocate for better wages and working conditions. Toxic Textiles Report by Asher Weinstein m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 17 m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 18 Regenerating Cotton Solutions Cotton is one of the most water- and chemical-intensive crops, and it is largely used in clothing production.

REEN AMERICA has long called Gfor a large-scale transition from conventional agriculture to a regener- ative model that sequesters carbon as we work to reverse the climate crisis. Through our green economy campaigns like Soil SuperHeroes and Climate Victory Gardens, and our Center for Sustainability Solutions’ Soil Carbon Index—the world’s first agricultural standard for soil health—we are leveraging the power of farmers, food companies, scientists, consumers, and other stakeholders to demand change and transform the system. Regeneration is for every facet of Dr. David Johnson with a field of regenerative cotton at the New Mexico State University Plant Science society that involves cultivating the Research farm in November 2017. Photo by Hui-Chu Su Johnson. land, and that includes the production of fibers, fuel, and forests. Our Toxic water scarcity exacerbated by the cotton America’s Carbon Farming Network, Textiles report uncovered that textiles industry, according to the Water Foot- and is working closely with us on scaling manufacturing accounts for 20 percent print Network. And China, the world’s his solutions. of industrial water pollution and the fast leading cotton producer, is struggling “The Carbon Farming Innovation Net- fashion industry is responsible for eight to manage a growing population of work is engaging with apparel companies percent of global greenhouse emissions, mirid bugs—a major pest that has been and farmers who supply them that are according to the sustainability metrics thriving under the country’s warming advancing regenerative agriculture,” company Quantis. temperatures and feasting on cotton. says Mary Johnson [no relation], director Can you imagine if one of the domi- With a commitment to the soil of that network at Green America’s nant fibers used to make our clothes was where cotton grows, we can reverse Center for Sustainable Solutions. grown with techniques so sustainable environmental damage and quell Though US apparel companies are and in concert with nature that its associated threats to communities. By still in the earliest stages of bringing production helped the planet? That’s ditching mechanization, pesticides, and regenerative cotton products to market, the vision regenerative cotton farming chemical fertilizers for no-till methods, breakthroughs are happening. In Sep- presents to the world. animal integration, and composting on tember 2018, The North Face unveiled its Memorably called “the fabric of our an industry-wide scale, we can better Cali Wool Collection, which showcases lives” by the industry, cotton is the protect farmers and reduce chemical clothing and accessories produced from most commonly used fabric for clothing pollution. These methods could even regenerative methods on California in the world, and it grows in over 100 quench cotton’s thirst, since nurturing farms. In 2019, Wrangler announced a countries and accounts for 2.5 percent soil health is proven to improve the new line of denim jeans that, though not of the globe’s cultivated land. Humans crop’s water retention. grown regeneratively, use 30 percent have been cultivating cotton for over Molecular biologist and California recycled cotton and eliminate 99 percent 7,000 years and its soft, pliable prop- State University adjunct professor David of water used in the dyeing process. erties have made it popular for clothes. C. Johnson, Ph.D, has developed an Green America looks forward to But, unsustainable practices like the use advanced soil health management sys- expanding our work with apparel compa- of pesticides, nitrogen-based fertilizers, tem that works for cotton and anything nies for a regenerative future. To help us and genetically modified seeds have else with roots in the ground, called jump-start that, reach out to your favorite contributed to the climate crisis. Biologically Enhanced Agricultural Man- clothing companies and ask them to Some of the world’s largest cot- agement (BEAM). This practice replen- adopt the Soil Carbon Index. ton-producers are in precarious situa- ishes soil microbes in soil that has been —Sytonia Reid tions. India, the world’s second largest degraded through conventional farming cotton producer, is experiencing severe methods. Johnson is a member of Green page 18 infographic by Alec Badalov m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 19 Worker Tested, Worker Approved Social Responsibility In the fashion industry, corporate social responsibility programs often work better for companies than for employees. Worker-led solutions do much more.

IXTEEN MILLION. That’s how many responsibility (WSR) programs. These structure does not put the workers’ Speople globally are trapped in forced which place workers at the center of needs at the center, rather it puts labor in the private sector, according the designing and implementing the workers at risk for retaliation if they to a 2016 report from the International solutions. It makes sense, as workers speak up. The WSR model has an Labour Organization. Besides these 16 are the ones who know what conditions independent body responsible for million, untold others are subjected to are on the ground in their industries. complaints, so workers are not at risk labor abuses in global supply chains Unfortunately, top-down CSR efforts for retaliation, resulting in the mecha- daily, such as forced overtime, harass- often impose challenging standards nism actually being used and workplace ment, withheld wages, exposure to toxic onto suppliers that are often already issues being resolved. chemicals, and other abuses. struggling to keep prices low and meet Supplier Support: Due to the You don’t have to look hard to find high product demands. structure of global supply chains, a news story reporting recent cases of “The worker-driven social respon- corporations seek the lowest price for workplace abuses in the supply chains sibility model puts the power to set their products, which puts pressure of major fashion brands. It is confusing and enforce safety standards with on suppliers to cut costs—often labor that so many fashion brands have cor- market consequences in the hands of costs—ultimately harming the people porate social responsibility programs workers,” says Sarah Newell, director of who make the products. With WSR, (CSR) and regularly use to check outreach and communications for the brands are required to provide financial workplaces for abuses, yet we still face Worker-driven Social Responsibility support to suppliers so that the sup- an enormous human rights crisis in Network (WSRN). pliers can comply with labor laws and global supply chains. standards without going out of business. While it is important that corporations The Differences Between Specificity: CSR standards often do not make commitments and progress to CSR and WSR account for risks or dangers specific to an address supply chain issues, the truth is Enforceability: CSR efforts are industry and do not reflect an under- they vary widely in their effectiveness. voluntary, which means there is no standing of the issues facing workers. Some companies have made progress one effective enforcement mechanism Through WSR models, worker organi- through CSR programs (as noted in our to ensure that companies uphold their zations create codes of conduct specific Toxic Textiles report, Nike and Target are commitments; whereas WSR is legally to their industries and workplaces; the improving their chemical management binding between worker representa- people with the greatest understanding policies at the factory level). Unfortu- tives and the brands. This holds brands of the issues develop the standard. nately, a vast majority of CSR initiatives accountable that are profiting off Transparency: CSR initiatives usually have not resulted in the needed changes. workplace abuses. don’t share the names and locations of CSR programs around environmental Workplace Monitoring: CSR moni- their suppliers, whereas WSR efforts concerns are often more successful than toring is conducted by auditors who are are public and transparent. those addressing labor issues. often rushed, have limited training, and Environmental impacts are often are paid by brands. The results of these Worker Success After easier for corporations to monitor audits are rarely shared with workers Rana Plaza and measure, and energy efficiency, or shoppers. WSR provides thorough In April 2013, the Rana Plaza factory clean energy, and packaging reduction workplace monitoring conducted by collapsed in Bangladesh, killing over projects save companies money. There- independent, well-trained individuals. 1,100 workers and injuring over 2,500 fore, environmental CSR programs are WSR also places greater emphasis on more. The Bangladesh Accord, an agree- easier to implement and often pay for worker interviews. Through WSR, the ment that was created in the aftermath, themselves, while programs impacting results of the monitoring are shared is one successful example of WSR. workers are often more costly. with the workers. “Before its collapse, two of the However, there is a different model Complaints: In CSR, complaints factories in the [Rana Plaza] building that has proven successful in multiple often go to the employer, brand, or a were inspected and certified as ‘safe’ industries: worker-driven social brand-contracted organization; this by CSR-style monitoring programs,”

20 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG A coalition of workers and feminist organizations announced a landmark agreement between companies, unions, and women’s rights advocates to combat gender-based violence in Lesotho’s garment sector. From left: Sam Mokhele, NACTWU; Thusoana Ntlama, FIDA; May Rathakane, IDUL; Libakiso Matlho, WLSA; Daniel Maraisane, UNITE. Photo courtesy of the Workers Rights Consortium.

Newell says. “In May of [2013], the released a report in August 2019, ring in the Lesotho garment sector. The Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building documenting pervasive workplace agreement establishes an independent Safety launched; unlike existing, sexual abuse in Lesotho’s garment body to investigate complaints and previous corporate social responsibility industry. The supplier involved in this punish or dismiss managers that are programs, the Accord is a legally binding report and the new agreement employs abusing workers. and enforceable agreement, in which roughly 10,000 people. The report found brands are obligated to implement their that managers and supervisors coerced A Way Forward commitments under the program.” workers into sexual relations; female The WSR model has proven successful Under pressure from groups like workers experienced sexual harassment in industries outside of the apparel Green America and labor-minded from managers and coworkers; this sector too, such as with the Fair Food consumers, over 200 brands signed on was coupled with management often Program in the US agriculture industry. to the Accord, covering 1600 factories not taking disciplinary action against While CSR has advanced transparency and two million workers. the offenders; and the tolerance of and other qualities of supply chains, Since its inception, Accord inspectors said harassment created a culture of and WSR may not always be possible in have identified more than 122,000 acceptance in the factories. countries that severely limit the civil safety violations at covered factories; “Many supervisors demand sexual society space, the challenges of CSR 90 percent of original safety hazards favors and bribes from prospective combined with successes of WSR should found have been fixed; over 300 safety employees. They promise jobs to the make us consider what will bring change committees have been created and workers who are still on probationary to the conditions that workers around trained to monitor safety conditions contracts. […] All of the women in my the world face on a daily basis. When on an ongoing basis; and the Accord’s department have slept with the su- workers have power in the workplace, complaint mechanism has resolved 375 pervisor,” said an anonymous Lesotho they are in the position to create safety complaints from workers and employee of the company Nien Hsing solutions and positive change. their representatives. Textiles to the WRC. “For the women, The continued exploitation of people this is about survival and nothing else… and the environment demonstrates Gender Justice in Lesotho If you say no, you won’t get the job, or a need for change. If workers, NGOs, A legally binding, worker-driven your contract will not be renewed.” consumers, and corporations can come approach is now also being tried Together, international brands, a together, we can alter the current unjust in Lesotho, in which 85 percent of major apparel supplier, unions, and power dynamics in supply chains. clothing exports come to the US. The women’s rights advocates will work to —Charlotte Tate, labor justice Workers Rights Consortium (WRC) address gender-based violence occur- campaigns manager, Green America m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 21 shoppers to call out the design’s black- face resemblance. The issue is not only with racism in design but internal homogeneity and inequality. Only three percent of the members on the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) are Black, and when the organization released its 2019 Insider/Outsider report, only about 40 percent of fashion executives felt their company’s commitment to inclusivity was important to the success of the company. A truly green fashion movement addresses the harm caused by conven- tional clothing production, especially in respect to race. Thankfully, leaders in this work are willing to share what they’ve learned. To Brooklyn and Beyond Dominique Drakeford is the founder of Melanin And Sustainable Style (shortened to MelaninASS)—an online community dedicated to celebrating the successes of people of color in Dominique Drakeford of MelaninASS.com. Photo by Timothy Smith. sustainable fashion and beauty move- ments. MelaninASS elevates the work of designers and craftspeople of color, Bringing More Color whom Drakeford calls vanguards. Drakeford and collaborator Whitney McGuire are co-founders of Sustainable to Green Fashion Brooklyn, which organizes educational The fashion industry doesn’t exactly have a clean record events, workshops, and curricula to promote them to communities targeted on appropriation and racism. But these small business by systemic racism via harmful educa- vanguards are reclaiming the narrative. tion systems, public policy, and toxic marketing. For Drakeford, affirming the HE FASHION INDUSTRY’S rela- cultures, or worse, invoke painful his- place of people of color in sustainability Ttionship with marginalized groups tory. For example, in 2012, the Navajo movements is just as important as is complicated. For decades, people Nation unsuccessfully sued the apparel speaking about oppressive systems. from communities often subjected company Urban Outfitters for using the “Black, Indigenous, and people of to inequality and stigma have found word “Navajo” on various products, color [BIPOC] have been conditioned to fellowship in an industry where art, including shirts and underwear that not think of themselves as important creativity, and individuality reign. The featured “tribal” prints. In 2018, an figures and change agents in the careers of designers and influencers H&M ad showed a Black child wearing a sustainability space. That has to do with like Jason Wu, Carolina Herrera, Andre sweatshirt bearing the words “Coolest who is controlling the narrative,” says Leon Talley, Vera Wang, and Willow Monkey in the Jungle,” shocking con- Drakeford. “MelaninASS, Sustainable Smith are just a few that exemplify sumers with how oblivious the company Brooklyn, and myself are always stress- what’s possible in the modern fashion could be to the hurtful evocations of ing the importance of reclaiming our industry in terms of representation. racist imagery. In 2019, Gucci debuted a environmental heritage and what that Unfortunately, major fashion brands now-infamous black sweater featuring may look like in today’s landscape.” too often create designs appropriated a large collar with bright red lips worn Drakeford, who holds a master’s from Black, Brown, and Indigenous over the chin and nose, which prompted in sustainable entrepreneurship and

22 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG fashion from New York University, says her work is about putting the money generated from the fashion industry in the hands of the often Black and Brown communities that produce clothing and inspire their designs. Drakeford has been pursuing this goal through the educational events hosted by Sustainable Brooklyn and her other speaking engagements. “We have to look at the regions of the world where communities are struggling with apparel pollution and where fashion waste is exported, such as Africa and India,” says Drakeford. “We tend to focus on garment workers Raj and Akhil Shah of Ably and other fashion ventures. in regions like Bangladesh, but this also effects farmers, dyers, and every aspect Kenya, the Shahs immigrated to the Ably set a positive example for other of production globally.” US in the ’70s, and started their first ap- sustainable apparel companies. Shah One action people can take to parel company, Shah Safari, in Seattle. says Ably targets its clothing design promote racial equity in sustainable Since then, Raj and Akhil have and messaging to Gen Z, 48 percent fashion is to simply buy from clothes- founded several other apparel com- of whom identify as non-Caucasian, makers of color. Like MelaninASS, the panies affiliated with Shah Safari, according to the Pew Research Center. Instagram account @BuyfromBIPOC, including International News, AW “A big part of our ethos is diversity founded by teacher and sustainable Outfitters, Zebra Club, and Mecca USA, and inclusion—from how and where Emi Ito, focuses on and have donated to over 33 charities we manufacture our clothing, to the highlighting the works of sustainable including in India and Kenya where personnel we employ throughout designers of color and is one such they still maintain some of their our operations, to how we treat our place where consumers can find business operations. The brothers employees and vendors around the people to support. Other action items have also become well known for their world,” says Raj Shah. include hiring people of color for knack for celebrating cultural trends executive creative positions at fashion in an authentic and non-appropriating Why Green Fashion Matters companies, pursuing BIPOC ownership way. Shah Safari, inspired by Indian Green America’s 2019 Toxic Textiles throughout a company’s supply chain, culture, and bold, baggy, Mecca USA report addresses the disproportionate rewriting trade agreements like NAFTA, apparel targeted to the hip-hop burden carried by the communities that which have shown to lead to unlivable community, are a couple of examples. host clothing factories around the world. wages and unsafe working conditions “You have to ask whether a brand When consumers use their money to in developing countries, and advocating intends to celebrate a certain culture or support green fashion companies and for fair media representation. simply piggyback on a market trend and designers, they’re not only investing In 2019, Drakeford and McGuire profit from that,” says Raj Shah. “It pays in environmental sustainability, hosted Sustainable Brooklyn’s “EARTH” to inspect the purity of the brand’s in- but environmental justice as well. symposium which focused on fashion, tention and whether the brand supports Supporting minority-owned businesses food and wellness. The duo are planning nonprofits and other groups that seek also helps to close historic racial wealth to bring Sustainable Brooklyn’s edu- to empower and better the lives of those gaps and boost representation in the cational symposiums to more cities in whose cultures they are emulating.” green economy. the US and are set to debut two more, The brothers’ newest venture, Ably, Being intentional with our purchases can slow, and even end wastefulness, dubbed “FIRE” and “WATER” in 2020. explores adding a coating called Filium (patent pending) to fabrics made from pollution, and inequality perpetuated by The Diversity Ethos natural materials to repel liquids, stains, the apparel industry by pressuring com- Brothers Raj and Akhil Shah know and odors, in an effort to reduce the num- panies to do better. Fashion has always something about harnessing creative ber of times garments must be washed. followed the lead of the people and we and economic power for good. Coming The Filium coating is produced according have the power to make every thread we from an entrepreneurial family that sold to bluesign® standards (see p. 17). wear count for a greater purpose. textiles in the coastal city of Mombasa, The Shahs’ marketing efforts for —Sytonia Reid m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 23 Source My Garment Toronto, Canada Green Business Member since 2009 Workers at fair trade factory Assisi Garments employs economically disadvantaged women and people with disabilities. It holds a certifications from GOTS and Fairtrade International. From Fast to Fair Fashion Across the world, clothing manufacturing is largely women’s work. Fair trade programs bring feminist values of equality to the industry.

N SOUTH INDIA, one garment Garment m, is an insider’s guide to to dangerous chemicals, and long Imanufacturer is busy changing the responsible offshore manufacturing. contracts with low pay. While feminist narrative around offshore factories. “There’s a huge misconception that movements have attempted to reform What started in 1994 as a nonprofit all factories are unethical,” Cokar issues around reproductive rights, rehabilitation program by Franciscan says. “There are a lot of great manu- workplace harassment, and discrim- nuns has grown into a thriving social facturers out there that need our help ination, fast fashion retailers have enterprise. Assisi Garments uses local as a global economy.” monetized the movement with t-shirts organic cotton and provides training The bad rap around offshore garment bearing feminist slogans made by and employment for deaf, mute, and manufacturing is founded in disaster. women working in overseas sweatshops. economically disadvantaged women in In 2013, building owners ignored warn- a safe and supportive environment. The ings that Rana Plaza, an eight-story Fast Fashion revenue Assisi Garments makes goes building housing five garment factories is a Feminist Issue to paying the women a fair wage as in Bangladesh was unsafe. Garment Feminism fights for gender well as supporting orphaned youth and workers were ordered to return to work equality—equal rights and access to medical facilities. the day the building collapsed, killing opportunity among the sexes. But while This story is one of many that more than 1,100 people and injuring women make up about 80 percent of sustainable fashion entrepreneur 2,500 others. Many of the garment garment workers around the world, and Source My Garment (2019) author, workers were young women. they earn significantly less than men, Adila Cokar, loves to share. Cokar has The deadliest incident in the history and promotions are a rare prospect for worked in various roles of the fashion of the garment industry caught the these women. On average, Bangladeshi industry for 18 years—from starting attention of people around the world to women work 60 hours a week and earn her own clothing line to connecting the mistreatment of factory workers; an hourly rate of 28 taka or $0.95 in other clothing businesses with fair yet over six years later, women workers USD, according to the 2018 Garment trade suppliers. Her recent book are still exploited in the fast fashion Worker Diaries report. The nonprofit named after her business, Source My industry through harassment, exposure Labor Behind The Label’s “Undercover,

24 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG Told by Workers” campaign in 2016 and harassment in the workplace. their own prices based on material and recorded that working conditions in Mira Fair Trade m is one business labor costs. The business is Fair Trade Cambodian garment factories are that exemplifies these values. Fond of Federation verified (see p. 17). poorly ventilated and lack access to handmade clothing and accessories, “I haven’t heard anything but good water. These conditions, coupled with Meera Viswanathan would purchase things [from the artisans],” Viswa- overwork and chemical exposure, mean products local artisans created on her nathan says. “These women are paid, workers in these factories are fainting annual visits to India with family. and more importantly, are treated with and malnourished. Upon visiting rural areas in Rajasthan respect. They can support their families Poor working conditions is just one and Gujarat one year, she learned the and send their kids to school.” element of this feminist issue—work- women artisans loved to create but had Like Mira Fair Trade, Cokar’s business place violence often goes unchecked no outlet to sell—if they had access is changing the narrative around in unregulated factories. A 2018 report to markets, they could support their garment workers. Cokar uses her from Global Labor Justice includes a families. Inspired to act, Viswanathan platform to amplify the positive changes written report from an Indian that have taken place in factories woman working in an H&M around the world by facilitating supplier factory, where she was partnerships with clothing brands beaten by a supervisor. After seeking ethical and environmen- filing a complaint with the hu- tally friendly manufacturers. man resources department, the Most of all, Cokar values the supervisor was told to apologize, people she works with. but his harassment did not stop. “It’s all about building rela- As a recent widow, the woman tionships,” says Cokar. “Every continued to work at the factory person has a story, so does a to support her daughter. factory. It’s not just about where This is not an uncommon sto- it’s getting made[…]the second ry for women garment workers. part is really to tell their story. Barriers to equality are rooted They’re part of the business.” in poverty, lack of education, Rebecca Ballard of Maven and exploitation by the fast Women m is familiar with the fashion industry, to name a few. injustices of the fast fashion But like Assisi Garments, there industry as a former human and are businesses that challenge labor rights lawyer. She believes the narrative of exploitation by women empowerment and implementing practices to give fashion can go hand in hand. power to these women. Maven Women, like Mira Fair Trade and Source My Garment, is This $12.99 tee from Forever 21 shows one example of how fast Finding Fair Trade fashion retailers are monetizing the equal rights movement, while doing committed to fair trade values. Fair trade is an example little to address injustice and fair wages in its own supply chain. “I am passionate about of such practices. The fair women claiming their potential trade movement is “about better researched the fair trade model and to be changemakers in our world,” prices, decent working conditions, began Mira Fair Trade. Ballard says. “This is our industry local sustainability, and fair terms “I noticed firsthand in some rural ar- and the problems in this industry are of trade for farmers and workers in eas in India[…]when you pay a woman, problems we can solve.” the developing world,” according to whatever money she gets she saves for Ballard started her ethical and Fair Trade Foundation m. This system the family,” Viswanathan says. “These sustainable fashion brand because she requires companies to pay fair prices women bought rice and inexpensive had trouble finding clothes that fit her to workers, establishing transparency, vegetables to cook and feed the kids. values, vocation, and aesthetic. After accountability, and respecting the If they had a little bit more money, three years and two children, she refined rights of workers and the environment. they would buy clothing for their kids, her business to honor both workers Businesses that employ fair trade medicine, and if they could make a tiny and consumers with clothing that is principles are in direct contrast to fast bit more money, they send their kids to sourced sustainably, is high quality, and fashion brands—for women workers, school. Food first, medicine next, then functional for working women. these principles have made offshore education, in that order,” she adds. “We are a movement of women manufacturing equitable by advocating Mira Fair Trade works with no more demanding more of themselves and oth- for living wages, combating unsafe than 30 families to adequately support ers,” says Ballard. To her, ethical fashion labor conditions, and challenging abuse the artisans. The women workers set is about giving women ownership of m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 25 Mira their bank accounts, their Fair Trade homes, and communities. These three women herald Pittsburgh, PA a change in the fashion Green Business industry—that clothing Member since 2009 brands can be catalysts for addressing feminist issues. By paying workers a living wage, women have increased agency in economic decision-making from the household to international institutions, according to UN Women. Additionally, women who are paid more have fewer children due to increased access to education and contraceptives. Meera Viswanathan (center, in purple) with women artisans crafting prosperity totas. Traditionally, totas Feminist Fashion and bring luck and prosperity to those who hang them near a door or window. Climate Change Around the world, women have fewer tune with community wellbeing and are Educating women, while a feminist rights, funds, and freedoms—these usually among the first in community agenda item, also increases resiliency barriers are expected to be exacerbated response to natural disasters, according against climate change. Project Draw- by the climate crisis. Since around 80 to a UN report. The current barriers down names educating girls and access percent of the estimated 60 to 75 million to equality limit a business’ ability to to birth control as the #6 and #7 most workers in the garment industry are respond and adapt to the unpredictable effective solutions to climate change. women, according to the Clean Clothes realities of a changing climate. If If you combine them as one goal, they Campaign, the fight for gender justice in the fashion industry is to adequately become the top solution. When women the fast fashion industry would empow- prepare for a climate disaster, address- are educated, they are more likely to er millions of women around the world. ing gender inequalities and building earn their own incomes and determine Sectors like the fashion industry that gender-sensitive policies can bolster a their own futures on childbearing. depend on a female workforce also face Additionally, women are dispropor- company’s resiliency. material risks. Women are more in tionately affected by climate change. As consumers, choosing ethical and sustainable fashion goes beyond voting with your dollar—it manifests substantial change for disenfranchised women workers around the world. Clothing brands based on fair trade principles empower women on both sides of the supply chain. Researching a company’s supply chain and pressuring fast fashion retailers to clean them up fights for the rights of women garment workers and your right to know what is in your clothing. “In terms of consumers, fashion is identity,” says Ballard. “It’s hugely empowering to say, ‘I’m going to dress myself in a way that fits my body and my values.’” In this sense, fashion is liter- Maven ally wearing your values on your Women sleeve—and dressing yourself in ethical clothing is a feminist Washington, DC action. Green Business —Mary Meade Rebecca Ballard, left, stands with models of her dresses from Maven Women’s Member since collection, made in Los Angeles in a woman-owned factory. Photo by Mark Story. 2011

26 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG In Da Nang, Vietnam, people shop through secondhand clothes at Cho Con Market. Photo by David Bokuchava What Really Happens to Unwanted Clothes? Your castoffs live on after your closet cleanout. HEN WE CLEAN OUT our closets, these items might end their story in our Buffalo Exchange, operating in 19 Wwe often use three piles for minds, but it doesn’t signify the end of states, purchases secondhand clothing clothing: keep, donate, and toss (or, life for your shirt or pair of pants. Not from community members to resell landfill). Even though many Americans by a long shot. in stores. It offers clothing that it donate clothing, textiles still make up cannot purchase as donations to local a shocking amount of the US waste Donating non-profits. Store merchandise that stream. The EPA reports that Americans Many people donate their worn cloth- doesn’t sell is sent to outlet stores in generate 16 million tons of textile waste ing to a local charity shop. One popular Texas and Arizona. Unfortunately, most a year, equaling just over six percent charity shop chain is Goodwill, which thrift stores don’t track where their of total municipal waste (for context, reports that it offers many opportunities donations head after they pass them plastics make up 13 percent of our waste for the clothes to be resold, although along to the next step, and that includes stream). On average, 700,000 tons of roughly five percent of donated clothes Goodwill and Buffalo Exchange. used clothing gets exported overseas are directly sent to landfills, largely due and 2.5 million tons of clothing are to mildew issues, which can contaminate Textile Recycling recycled. But over three million tons are entire bales of clothing. The rest remain Recycling textiles can keep materials incinerated, and a staggering 10 million in the 3,200 stores for four weeks before out of landfills and incinerators as well as tons get sent to landfills (see pie chart being moved to Goodwill outlets, found reduce need for virgin fibers by extend- on the following page). in 35 states, where items are sold for 99 ing the life of existing ones. Textiles are We need to reduce textile waste and cents per pound. What doesn’t sell at the sorted by material type and color. Sorting prevent burning or landfilling used outlets is then sent to Goodwill Auctions, by color means that no re-dying would clothing, processes that release green- where huge “mystery” bins full of items need to take place, which saves energy house gas emissions. Plus, it typically are sold for as little as $35 each. Finally, and dyes. The textiles are then shredded. costs $45 per ton to dispose of textiles, what clothing remains gets sent to textile Zippers and buttons are removed from equaling hundreds of millions of dollars recycling centers where they will be cut the shredded piles using magnets. per year, showing a clear economic case into rags, processed into softer fiber Natural textiles, like cotton or wool, are to reduce waste. used for filling furniture and building cleaned and mixed through “carding,” Donating clothes can also be prob- insulation, or sent overseas. a mechanical process that passes fibers lematic. Bagging up and dropping off Another well-known thrift store, between moving surfaces to break m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 27 The EPA reports that Americans generate 16 million tons of textile waste a year. On average, 700,000 tons of used clothing gets exported overseas and 2.5 up locked clumps of fiber and aligns million tons of clothing are recycled. But over 3 million tons are incinerated, individual fibers to be parallel to each and a staggering 10 million tons get sent to landfills. other. The product is then re-spun into yards of threads and ready to be used for weaving or knitting into new products. Synthetic fibers, such as polyester or acrylic, are processed into polyester chips, which are essentially plastic pellets that become polyester again. The chips are melted and spun into new filament fiber for new polyester fabrics. There are small businesses and major brands committed to using recycled materials in their goods. For example, Patagonia sells clothing made with recycled down, wool, and polyester. Even the labels and zippers in these items contain up to 80 percent reclaimed ma- terial. Green Business Network member Infographic by Alec Badalov Ooloop m uses recycled wool, cashmere, cotton, and even recycled fishing nets domestic demand for clothing and the reduce your impact on the Earth when it in its clothing. Ooloop also uses surplus export demand for its textiles. Local comes to clothes: material (the discards from the fashion small businesses need to expand and 1.Reduce clothing purchases and industry), for its clothing lines to keep scale up to satisfy demand. Kenya’s new consider the larger waste trail behind those materials out of landfills. garment industry had half a million the textiles we buy. Donating clothing garment workers a few decades ago but is far better than landfilling, but it does Overseas Exports now only has tens of thousands. not erase the impacts of the clothes we Secondhand clothes that don’t sell Opponents of the ban pushed back buy and discard. in the US or go into textile recycling are by saying it violated international trade 2. When buying clothes, choose often exported. Roughly 700,000 tons of agreements, could have eliminated secondhand. You can find used clothing used clothing gets sent to other countries hundreds of thousands of jobs, and for sale in local thrift stores or online. annually, reportedly creating a big reduced millions of dollars of income. 3. For new items, look for “recycled market and contributing to job growth. Donated clothing was previously given content” products to ensure we are But it’s highly contested whether the away for free in East Africa. It then creating demand for recycled textiles, impacts of this trade on local economies became a commodity to sell, which is which leads to more incentive for yields beneficial or harmful results. The what suppressed the local textile sector, companies to close the loop and give new sheer volume of exported clothing has but created livelihoods in the secondary life to used textiles. suppressed local clothing industries clothing market at the same time. In the Beyond these individual habits, we can and developed an increased reliance on future, the US government could work advocate for less waste throughout the other countries. It’s estimated the cost with East African nations to support the fashion system. Host a clothing swap to of a secondhand garment is as low as development of local textile industries build community and show others the five percent the cost of a new garment while reducing the flow of garments importance of reducing waste. Use social made in Kenya, meaning local industries from our secondary market. media and email to contact clothing are unable to compete with the influx of companies and express the importance cheap, used clothing. Reduce, Reuse, of designing for a loop instead of a In 2016, the East African Community and then Recycle landfill. Ask your local government to (EAC) agreed to a complete ban on With almost two thirds of clothing explore better collection systems for imported clothing that would have castoffs headed directly to the landfill, used textiles to ensure they are repur- gone fully in effect in 2019. The Trump what’s abundantly clear is that we posed or recycled. Spread the word about administration pressured leaders to produce far too much clothing in the first the harm and waste perpetrated by the rescind the ban, which they eventually place. With the influence of fast fashion, unsustainable fast fashion industry. did. But a range of projected outcomes we now see over 50 “micro-seasons” of For all of us who wear clothes, there are were debated during the multi-year clothing being made in a year instead of many ways we can make a difference for discussion of the ban. Kenya had said the previous two seasons (spring/sum- people and the planet. it wouldn’t be able to follow the ban’s mer and fall/winter) from decades past. —Beth Porter, deadline, as it lacks the capacity to meet Here are three steps you can take to climate campaigns director

28 WINTER 2019 GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG GREEN ECONOMY NEWS

THE LATEST FROM OUR GREEN BUSINESS NETWORK®

GreenBusinessNetwork.org + Find green products and services at GreenPages.org Celebrating Eight Years of Green America’s People & Planet Award

green economy. The businesses may use their cash award however they choose. Most chose to apply the funds to the expansion of their social and environmental goals, taking the next steps on their green journey. For some that has meant purchasing new and improved equipment, for others it has meant donating to local causes. More important than the funds, however, is that the program has told the story of how businesses can be a force for positive change in their communities and through their supply chains. Small businesses are often the ones to prove that business can be conducted differently and successfully while upholding the value of workers, communities, and the environment. Our People & Planet Award winners demonstrate every day that the green economy can help solve many of the pressing issues now confronting us, including climate change, exposure to toxic Themis and Thread (left) won our August 2016 Ethical Apparel category and Planted Table (right) won chemicals, abusive work conditions, food our final category in Fall 2019, Best of the Green Economy. waste, and cruelty to animals. This award has been possible thanks to Since 2012, Green America’s People & 2018 Green Home award winner. a generous Green America member and Planet Award has played an important role in “We are thrilled to be recognized we are thrilled, with the final awards in highlighting the commitment and innovation for our commitment to clean energy fall 2019, to have allocated all the funds of of small, green businesses to social justice and plan to use the award to fast-track this grant. Even with the conclusion of the and environmental responsibility. Our our nationwide on-bill energy efficiency program, we will continue to shine a bright winners, determined by popular vote, share program,” said Kiran Bhatraju, CEO of spotlight on the crucial role green business- why the award is important to their business Arcadia Power m , a fall 2017 Clean Energy es play in building a better society. and to growing the green economy: award winner. At this time, we also thank our award “Green America has been part of our Maureen Dunn, founder of Mata Traders m , judges who have helped evaluate the business since the early days, and we’re received the award for the Worker Empow- award nominees over the years: Justin honored to be winners,” said Sarah Kaeck, erment theme in fall 2014. “We’re so happy Conway, Calvert Impact Capital m ; Tess founder and president of Bee’s Wrap m , a to receive this award for worker empow- O’Brien, Clean Power Perks; Erlene spring 2019 Plastic Alternatives award erment because it recognizes the incredible Howard, Collective Resource, Inc.; Dale winner in Spring 2019. “We’ll be donating work our partner organizations are doing to Luckwitz, Happsy m ; Martin Wolf, Seventh the entirety of our prize to 5 Gyres not only offer meaningful employment but Generation; and Beth Porter, Scott Kitson, Institute, our nonprofit partner dedicated also to create grassroots change within their and Fran Teplitz of Green America. to fighting plastic pollution in the ocean.” communities,” says Dunn. Visit our People & Planet Award Win- “This prize will enable Eutree to increase The People & Planet Award has provided ners Gallery for inspirational stories about the number of logs diverted from landfills,” $5,000 grants to deserving businesses for the winning businesses: greenamerica.org/ Said Sims Acuff, president of Eutree m , a fall eight years, infusing over $300,000 into the people-and-planet-award. m Designates a certified member of Green America’s Green Business Network® 29

LETTERS & ADVICE To Make a Difference in Poopooing Plastic Waste Fashion, Resist Amazon I am in a quandary about the bags used to pick up pet waste. I get plastic newspaper bags which could be recycled, N THE MIDST OF WRITING THIS ISSUE, our labor but instead I use them to pick up after my pet. I could buy Ijustice campaigns manager Charlotte Tate shared compostable bags, but someone pointed out they will not yet another article about why shopping on Amazon decompose in a municipal landfill as they won’t be exposed is not a good idea, this time, with a spin that cut to air. Any suggestions for what the greenest method is? close to the issue’s theme. The article was from The —Leslie Ann Jones, via email Wall Street Journal, and the title is “Amazon Sells Clothes from Factories Other Retailers Blacklist.” ELEANOR: I love that you’re reusing your newspaper bags! As long as you continue to receive the paper, it’s great that the To summarize in a little more depth, after the Rana bag is getting a second use. Thin plastic is hard to recycle Plaza factory collapse in 2013, most of the largest ELEANOR because you can’t put it into curbside bins—it must be US clothing companies joined the Bangladesh GREENE brought to special drop off spots (usually at the grocery Accord and agreed to stop selling clothes from store). You’re right that “biodegradable” plastics do not factories that could not uphold safety standards. break down in the landfill when they’re not exposed to The Journal followed the supply chain of 122 factories cast off by the air. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot of great options; some Accord that are still in operation, and cross referenced with over a towns allow flushing dog waste (call your sewage provider billion shipping records to see how common it was that Amazon sellers to ask); dog-waste-only composting bins exist out there; were using these factories. It linked 51 factories to Amazon. some commercial composting facilities accept pet waste. I don’t think many of us could claim to have never made an Amazon At the end of the day, if what you’re doing is working and purchase. But as more and more reports come out about Amazon’s you’re not creating demand for new plastic, I think you’re on the right track. poor treatment of its workers (see my article from our spring 2018 issue by searching our site for “True Cost of Two Day Shipping,” among dozens of articles from other sources), it becomes harder and harder to stomach making any purchases at all from Amazon. But what can you Inquire Consciously In the “Questions for Your Farmers” article in Your Green do when you need something with a few days’ notice, or when some- Life, you don’t mention integrated pest management thing catches your eye as you browse for something else? (IPM) which many farmers in my area use. I find farming I used to buy things on Amazon occasionally. I shared a Prime techniques are a sensitive issue and it is best to introduce account with a family member and bought things when I needed them indirectly first. If it is fruit, I say “I know how hard it them. I tried to bundle purchases so I wouldn’t get huge boxes with is to get nice tree fruit in this area, how has it been for you only one item in them, but seemed to get them anyway. I used this season?” smile.amazon.com to give a few cents to favorite charities as I made —Ira J., Pennsylvania a purchase. When I joined Green America’s staff, I started research- ing and writing about Amazon’s big issues for our Build a Cleaner and ELEANOR: Great points, Ira! You sound like you have practice Fairer Cloud campaign and found it hard to square my purchases with in asking farmers the big questions. For those who don’t know and would like to ask, IPM focuses on long term all I learned about the company. prevention of pests by managing the ecosystem instead So, I let my Prime account expire, so I wouldn’t feel inclined to use of relying only on pesticide use. Examples of IPM might that “free” shipping. And I tried to stop shopping on Amazon. I work a include using barriers against climbing pests, crop rotation, bit harder (in-store shopping takes more energy than click-shopping) and changing irrigation practices, among many others. and wait longer to get things, because it sometimes takes days or weeks to find things when they’re not all centrally located. Sometimes I pay a bit more, but I was pleasantly surprised to also find things JOIN THE CONVERSATION for less. I find things for free on my local Buy Nothing group and at Please send your letters to: Editors, Green America, 1612 clothing swaps, and from the library. I’m a big fan of craft fairs, thrift K St. NW, Ste. 600, Washington, DC 20006, or by email shops, hardware stores, and of course, GreenPages.org. Even big box to [email protected]. Letters may be edited for stores have more transparent supply chains than Amazon and have length and clarity. To order print copies of this or other signed on to not use cast off companies, though the Journal’s inves- issues, please email [email protected]. tigation also linked Walmart to over 20 of the factories and Target to But, you don’t have to wait for us to ask questions one, though both companies pulled the items. or see answers here! Ask on social media and let our If you do decide to use Amazon less, I also ask you, please don’t active community chime in, along with the editorial give up on yourself. Just like a slice of cake doesn’t ruin a habit of and programs staff. healthy eating, don’t let an occasional Amazon purchase deter you Instagram.com/GreenAmerica_ from an effort to avoid shopping on the site overall. Aim for prog- ress, as in all aspects of your green journey, before perfection. The Facebook.com/GreenAmerica Earth, and in this case, the workers on it, are counting on you. Twitter.com/GreenAmerica —Eleanor Greene, editor

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