From #BoycottFashion

To #LovedClothesLast

Understanding the Impact of the Sustainable Activist Consumer and How Activist Movements are Shaping a Circular Industry

Hilary Jade Ip Final Fashion Management Project sustainable

noun able to be maintained at a certain rate or

activist

noun a person who campaigns to bring about political or social change

consumer

noun a person who purchases goods and services for personal use.

FINAL FASHION MANAGEMENT PROJECT WORD COUNT: 7050 STUDENT ID: 29483816

This report has been printed on 100% recycled paper CONTENTS

7 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

8 INTRODUCTION

10 METHODOLOGY

12 CHAPTER 1:

25 CHAPTER 2: THE ACTIVIST CONSUMER

32 CHAPTER 3: THE CURRENT INDUSTRY RESPONSE

44 CHAPTER 4: THE

50 CHAPTER 5: RECOMMENDATION

58 CHAPTER 6: POST COVID-19

64 CONCLUSION

67 APPENDIX

76 BIBLIOGRAPHY

5 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

This report provides an investigative analysis of the ‘sustainable’ activist consumer and how activist movements have pushed the fashion industry towards a more circular future. Chapter 1 of the report analyses the fashion activism and its current forms in the digital age. It examines the impact of activist movements focusing on disrupting fashion consumption. Chapter 2 of the report dissects the Generation Z (Gen Z) activist consumer. Gen Z stands to become one of the most influential consumer “The Fashion Industry is groups and is leading the current industry shift. Chapter 3 of the report explores the response of fashion industry, examining notable examples from across the fashion hierarchy and the Broken” potential issues with their strategies. - Chapter 4 of the report introduces the Circular Economy model, a radical Clare Farrell, change option for to improve their Corporate Social Responsibility that is not the . It also introduces regenerative Extinction Rebellion thinking as the next move for the fashion industry. (2020) Chapter 5 presents recommendations for brands to begin the transition from a linear model to a circular model. The report proposes collaboration between competitors/activist groups which could lead to a mutual benefit for business, consumers, and governments. Chapter 6 takes into consideration how activist movements have been affected by COVID-19 and the activist consumer post-COVID-19 The report ends with the conclusion that the fashion industry will find that the sustainable ‘activist’ consumer is no longer a unique market segment as sustainable attitudes become more commonplace. Radical change needs to happen or soon the sustainable activist ‘consumer’ will no longer wish to consume from the fashion industry at all.

6 7 INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

he climate crisis has put the fashion Activist organizations such as Extinction Rebellion Tindustry on a collision course with the and have gained significant current zeitgeist (Cartner-Morley, 2019). From growth in following because of this awareness. hazardous substances in garments to the large With social media as their platforms, activist groups amounts of textile waste generated, today’s have been able to reach and educate consumers fashion industry has become synonymous with worldwide. Supported by industry leaders such Figure 2: The average amount of clothing going to landfill per person (WTVOX, 2018) severe environmental impacts. Consumers are as Stella McCartney and Livia Firth (Business ‘getting woke’ as McKinsey reports in their State of Fashion, 2018), these organizations have of Fashion Report 2019. Following that forecast is launched movements encouraging consumers the growing need for brands to put ‘ to #boycottfashion and make sure their The global apparel and footwear industry is Therefore, this report aims to answer the First’ (McKinsey, 2019). Highlighted as some of #lovedclotheslast. These proposed reductions in projected to grow up to USD 3.3 trillion in question: the key leaders pushing this demand are young consumerism could lead to a complete consumer value by 2030. (Global Fashion Agenda, 2019). Generation Z (Gen Z) activists such as Greta shift (Figure 2). This is if the industry continues with their Thunberg (Figure 1). 2020 brings the climate current practices but there is a possibility activist “What is the crisis deadline closer as more countries fail to consumers leading these anti-consumerist follow through on their 2015 movements can change that trajectory. impact of emission goals (National Geographic, 2019). Generation Z is set to make up to 40% of global The well-known fact that the fashion industry consumers in 2020 (McKinsey, 2018). Combined the activist is responsible for ’10% of the world’s carbon with the sustainably minded Millennials, their emissions’ (UNEP, 2018), has many consumers combined spending power totals to almost USD consumer and growing conscious of what effect their shopping 3 trillion this year (YPulse, 2020). As a growing habits have on the environment. number of these consumers shift to an activist mind-set, actively choosing to purchase more how are activist consciously; The fashion industry stands to lose profits and more if their values and actions are movements not aligned with the zeitgeist. A potential way to mitigate this issue while still encouraging shaping fashion business activity is the circular economy which is towards a more Figure 1: Generation Z ‘valued as a trillion-dollar opportunity.’ (WGSN Climate Change Activist Insight, 2019) Greta Thunberg circular future?” (Dominguez, 2019)

8 9 METHODOLOGY

80% would 58 % of boycott a consumers for surveyed behaving don’t consider unethically themselves activists METHODOLOGY (Author’s Own, 2020) (Author’s Own, 2020) his report has utilized a mixed method Survey: Tapproach to its research into the activist The results were collected anonymously consumer and the possible solutions. The in order to prevent Social Desirability Bias report relies primarily on secondary sources of (SDB). ‘SDB is a phenomenon where survey Figure 3: Results from primary research (Author’s Own, 2020) data such as industry periodicals and academic participants provide answers that are socially journals due to the quality and accessibility. desirable so they create a more favourable Primary research has been conducted to collect or positive impression in their survey localised data. Other primary research included participation’ (Roxas and Lindsay, 2011) store observation and courses from activist organizations such as Fashion Revolution and The survey revealed even though not all The Sustainable Angle. The report is supported participants considered themselves as with the use of models and frameworks from activists, they were all aware of highlighted various academic authors such as Schiffman, climate change activist movements specific Kanuk, and Wisenbilt (2010) and Jackson and to the fashion industry and acted similarly in Shaw (2009) terms of conscious fashion consumption and disposal. Qualitative data collected revealed Ethical considerations: the nuances in consumer’s feelings about All primary research was approved by the their actions as activists/non-activists. The University of Southampton’s Ethics Committee most common reasoning for not labelling & Textiles (ERGO). All participants have consented to themselves an activist is the lack of participation Figure 4: CLAWDI Brand (CLAWDI, 2020) their data being used for this report in protests. However, 80% of participants said they would be willing to participate in Sampling: Interview: a form of protest against a fashion brand if The sample selected for primary data An interview was conducted with the founder been inspired by activist movements and now uses they behaved unethically. (Figure 3) Therefore, includes a mixture of self-proclaimed ‘activist’ and of activist upcycling brand CLAWDI her brand as a platform to ‘raise awareness and relay this demonstrates many consumers have the consumers (participants from the University of (Figure 4), Claudi Janse Van Rensberg, to gain information on important environmental issues not potential to become an ‘activist consumer’ at Southampton’s charter of Extinction Rebellion industry insight in operating a successful brand only related to fashion.’ She also highlighted how large any moment, given the correct motivation that were recruited) and regular consumers within utilising the mentality of the circular economy brands like Patagonia, Nike, Stella McCartney play their personal values. The most common the age range of a typical UK university setting. framework. a significant role in leading innovative technologies platform for consumers to hear about these This sample is a convenience sample (Jackson that contribute to the field of sustainable fashion. activist acts is social media as expected by the and Shaw, 2009) but this was appropriate Rensberg offered insightful commentary on She believes the industry will move towards most digitally connected generations. given participants’ connection with the topic working as an independent designer and how her ‘lowsumerism’ and other slower production methods

of discussion as most were Gen Z. Due to business model of direct to consumer custom to mitigate the climate crisis. The full results of the survey are visualised in complications from the COVID-19 pandemic, orders has allowed her to maintain her sustainable Appendix A. the availability of the participants was affected production values and gain a strong following and The full interview is in Appendix B and the target of 50 participants was not support during the COVID-19 crisis. Rensburg has achieved. However, a reasonable mix of the intended sample was still achieved with the limited number of 26 participants. 10 11 1.1 FASHION AS AN ACTIVIST TOOL

CHAPTER 1 1.2 CURRENT FORMS OF FASHION ACTIVISM SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM Glickman (2020) argues that consumer activism is either ‘grassroots collective organization of consumption or its withdrawal’. The examples show how activism in the digital age can go beyond this definition.

Figure 5: Extinction Rebellion Protest outside of London (Coggin, 2019)

12 13 FASHION AS AN ACTIVIST TOOL FASHION AS AN ACTIVIST TOOL

A SELECTIVE HISTORY

ne of the earliest examples of The 1990s brought on what Siegle (2011) Obranded fashion activism is possibly describes as ‘the era of the boycott’, the Suffragette Movement in the 20th where brands were ‘boycotted for any Figure 6: Suffragettes in 1908 (Swindon Libraries) Figure 7: Selfridges Ad (BeyondRetro, 2014) century (Figure 6). Described as an ‘early connection to worker exploitation’. triumph for fashion branding’, the image These boycotts were successful, with of the suffragette wearing a purple-white- then CEO of Nike, Phil Knight admitting green sash has created a sartorial legacy the company’s reputation and profits (The Guardian, 2015). Retailers such as suffered because of the protests. (Figure Selfridges and Liberty gained much by 8) By the end of the 20th century, the aligning themselves with the cause, being anti-sweatshop movement had initiated recommended by the Women’s Press, as change within the fashion industry official ‘suppliers of suffragette-related with political leaders establishing policy pieces’ (Figure 7) and therefore supplying initiatives. (Connell, cited in Bostrom, hundreds of activists with their garments Micheletti, and Oosterveer, 2019) and accessories (Stylist, 2018). However, it is important to note that Nike is still extremely successful today, benefiting from the fact that consumers ‘have a selective memory’ when it comes to purchasing products which are unethically made. (Nguyen, 2018)

Figure 8: Protesters at a Nike Boycott in 1990s (Business Insider, 2015)

14 15 FASHION AS AN ACTIVIST TOOL FASHION AS AN ACTIVIST TOOL

THE SLOGAN T-SHIRT

rguably the symbol of activist “Slogans work on so many A fashion is the slogan t-shirt. A ‘vessel different levels; they’re almost for political discourse’, (Dazed, 2018), the subliminal. They’re also a way Figure 9: Katherine Hamnett (pictured on the far right) and her original slogan t-shirt (Harper’s Bazaar, 2019) humble cotton garment has been used of people aligning themselves to represent movements for decades. to a cause. They’re tribal. In the 1970s Vivienne Westwood used Wearing one is like branding them as a canvas to express political yourself.” – Katherine Hamnett messages. However, Katherine Hamnett’s (Harper’s Bazaar, 2018) encouragement for copies of her infamous design (Figure 9) in the 1980s The ‘slogan t-shirt’ representing the that popularized its use as a political and activists protest against the destructive social ‘statement-maker’. (Press, 2016). nature of the fashion industry has a This has led to a commoditized version different look. The perfect t-shirt for a that is still present in and sustainable activist consumer is the 100% luxury. In 2017, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Dior organic cotton t-shirt with a percentage debut included a £490 t-shirt proudly of the profits being donated to a good claiming ‘We Should All Be Feminists’. cause. (Figure 11) But the shirt isn’t One could argue that once a style perfect yet as it comes with a cost that becomes commoditized, the meaning is harms the very cause it aims to support. lost or worst, represented as something (Discussed further in Chapter 3) it is not. For example, at an online retailer such as Boohoo, one could as easily align themselves as #feminist as they can a #quarantinequeen (Figure 10)

Figure 10: Boohoo Slogan T-shirt offerings Figure 11: C&A organic cotton t-shirt (BooHoo, 2020) (C&A, 2018)

16 17 CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM

#BoycottFashion

If followed through, the impact of a movement #BOYCOTTFASHION like #BOYCOTTFASHION would be is a campaign launched by environmentalist monumental. In the UK, an average of 11 million group Extinction Rebellion (abbreviated as garments is sent to landfill each week (Oxfam, XR onwards). The campaign requires the 2019). A study by Kantar revealed that the consumer to pledge not to purchase any average UK consumer purchases ‘around 50 new fashion for a year as a part of their items of clothing per year’ (CNBC, 2019). If all #XR52 weeks of direct action campaign. twenty thousand of XR’s Instagram followers (Extinction Rebellion, 2020). In other committed to a full boycott, that could result words, completely withdraw from the in over 1 million garments not purchased and fashion industry as a whole as an act of subsequently wasted. rebellion against their ‘ecocidal, unethical of pointless production’ (Extinction In addition to the boycott, they have also staged Rebellion, 2020). XR describes itself as an multiple demonstrations against other facets Figure 12: The XR FASHION ACTION pledge (Extinction Rebellion, 2020) ‘international non-violent civil disobedience of the fashion industry, their most publicised activist movement.’ Their primary aim is being the funeral they held calling for the end for governments to declare a “climate and of London Fashion Week, featured on the web ecological emergency” and take immediate front pages of Vogue and Elle (Vogue, 2019) action to address climate change. (BBC, 2019).

18 19 CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM

#LovedClothesLast

#LOVEDCLOTHESLAST The current value proposition of most is a campaign launched by Fashion garments especially fast fashion garments Revolution, the world’s largest fashion is less for less (Kotler, 2011). Where activism movement. They are most known consumers are paying less for lower for the campaign #WhoMadeMyClothes, quality with the intention to discard. a campaign asking consumers to question Although the majority of a garment’s their favourite brands on the ethical impact comes pre-consumer (up to standing of their production methods 92% according to Mistra Future Fashion and embrace a more transparent Report, 2019), it is estimated that . This was brought on by carbon, waste and water footprints can the tragic Rana Plaza accident in 2013, be reduced by up to 20-30% each, just the conditions in Bangladesh and by extending a garments life by an extra other manufacturing plants have yet to 9 months (WRAP, 2017). improve. The #lovedclotheslast campaign focuses on the act of mending and The campaign gives power to the repairing clothing, keeping them circular consumer to reject the fashion industry’s as an act of resistance. ‘Craftivism consumerist ways which are causing is a rejection of the kind of more harm than good. capitalism that puts profit before the planet.’ (Fulop, 2019) However, the true strength of Fashion The campaign is not a direct boycott Revolution is their ever-growing Figure 13: Fashion Revolution’s Loved Clothes Last fanzine with insight from as it doesn’t encourage consumers network. Fashion Revolution serves as industry experts (Fashion Revolution, 2020) to withdraw completely. It promotes an umbrella foundation to the many themes of craftivism and bringing value localised environmentalist and social back to clothing in an industry that movements. They provide industry level treats garments as if they are disposable. insight and make it digestible for any type of stakeholder in the fashion industry, whether you are a student, designer, consumer or manufacturer, Fashion Revolution’s reports and fanzine offer insights into the future of circular and sustainable fashion. (Figure 13)

20 21 CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM

DIGITAL ACTIVISM OR SLACKTIVISM?

he growth of both movements can However, a recent success is the #PayUp Tbe attributed to the accessibility of campaign led by activist group Remake. the information. Thanks to the platform The campaign was in response to of social media sites, online activism major brands cancelling orders during ‘enables the trans-nationalization of the COVID-19, owing over $3 billion to Figure 14: Collage of posts for the #PayUp Campaign (Remake, 2020) activist’s causes’ to spread quicker and garment factories in countries such far beyond the local point of origin. as Bangladesh. (WWD, 2020) They (Arnould and Thompson, 2018). XR’s launched this campaign primarily campaign began in the UK in 2018, but through social media and model/activist now there are over 110 local groups Arizona Muse reposted the campaign in 68 countries. And their numbers are which gained over 30,000 views. Within growing. (Extinction Rebellion, 2020). In achieving 8000 signatures on a change. 2019, during their Fashion Revolution org petition, big brands such as H&M and Week campaign, Fashion Revolution Next publicly announced they would achieved over 289 million interactions honour their orders (Remake, 2020). through Instagram alone and hold 762 thousand in their regular online following. Ultimately, the strength in any activist movement lies in the community and There has been debate on the lack numbers. The individual’s actions are of impact ‘clicktivism’ has. It is often most influential in their power to mockingly called ‘slacktivism’, due to influence someone else. (Figure 16) the lack of effort in comparison to traditional forms of activism (Arnould and Thompson, 2018).

Figure 15: A selection of Instagram Posts from the XR and Fashion Revolution (Author’s Own, 2020)

22 23 CURRENT SUSTAINABLE FASHION ACTIVISM

ACTIVIST ORGANIZATIONS/INFLUENCERS

ACTIVIST CONSUMERS

FRIENDS/FAMILY/STRANGERS

CHAPTER 2 THE ACTIVIST CONSUMER In the previous chapter, we have established that activism can take on many forms and has grown due to the accessibility of movements online. This chapter serves to dissect the individual activist.

Figure 16: The Simplified Activist Network of Influence (Author’s Own, 2020) The Activist Organization’s most important role is influencing activist consumers, who then go on to influence those around them

Figure 17: Young activists for Fashion Revolution Week at SoFa Design Institute, Philippines (Fashion Revolution, 2017)

24 25 THE GEN Z ACTIVIST THE GEN Z ACTIVIST

“Technology provides the platform but Gen Z’s passion makes them so precociously prominent and powerful on the world stage.” - Forbes, 2019

GENERATION Z AS ACTIVISTS

en Z is defined by the Pew Research Serviss, (2004, cited in Yurchinsin and Figure 18: Gen Z Climate Change Activists protesting in Washington (Jim Lo Scalzo, 2019) GCentre (2019) as consumers born Johnson) argues that Gen Z is much from 1997 to 2012 making them ages more developed at their young age as 8-23 in 2020. An estimated 1.6 million consumers, acting as small adults, and student around the world took part in are conscious of retailer’s attempts to a global movement for climate action take advantage of them. This segment en Z’s unique upbringing as digital natives with a sense of ‘eco-anxiety’ (Plautz, 2020) means (Strauss, 2019). They were inspired by is extremely analytical, making them G their priorities are different from their Generation X parents. While their parents may make fellow Gen Z activist Greta Thunberg, ‘Thinkers’ as described by the VALS decisions as theorised in Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs (Figure 19), the Gen Z activist consumer who has become one of the highest- framework. Thinkers are consumers may choose to make purchases that satisfy multiple needs at the same time. Purchasing consciously profile climate change activists in the that ‘plan, research, and consider is their method of satisfying safety needs, believing it will help the planet and satisfying social needs, world, youngest ever to be named TIME’s before they act’. Much like how an helping them belong in their community. Person of the Year. (Forbes, 2019) activist would take the time to do an environmental audit before purchasing, Although Millennials have similar if possible (SBI, 2020). Although Thinker sustainable attitudes, Deloitte argues consumers traditionally have access that Gen Z will be much more active in to higher resources and income, this Self Actualisation Needs pursuing their values as they have placed does not necessarily apply to the Gen ‘a greater emphasis on their role in the Z activist. It is difficult to segment them world as part of a larger by socio-economic grouping as social Primary needs satisfied by a Self Esteem Needs and their responsibility to help improve media/activist organizations have made sustainable purchase it.’ (Deloitte, 2018). Nielsen’s research information regarding fashion’s impact suggests that Gen Z even have a pull on the climate accessible and free. on household spending and utilise their Social and Belonging Needs content creation to create real change (2019).

Figure 19: Maslow’s Safety and Security Needs Hierarchy of Needs (Author’s Own, 2020, adapted from Posner, 2015) Physical Survival Needs

26 27 THE GEN Z ACTIVIST THE GEN Z ACTIVIST

PEN PORTRAIT

arah is a twenty-year-old fashion with Clare Press on her morning runs S management student at the or when she is on public transportation. University of Arts London, who comes Sarah and her friends often host swap from an affluent family in Singapore parties so that they do not throw away and volunteers part-time at an Oxfam clothing. She helps her design classmates charity shop. She hopes to work as a sell their clothing on depop, using her writer for a site such as Eco-Age when management skills. Other than her she graduates. She is a self-proclaimed interest in fashion, she is also an avid activist and protested with Extinction crafter and knitter and enjoys visiting Rebellion during London Fashion Week. exhibitions around London. Sarah often Sarah’s aspirational brands are Stella spends her spare time researching for McCartney and Anya Hindmarch. She her blog, exhaustingfashion where she has attempted to stop shopping but she posts new information about the fashion can’t resist getting ‘new’ clothing from industry’s environmental impact for vintage kilo sales. Because they were her 3000 followers. She makes a post preowned and affordable, she believes it about Everlane’s organic cotton plans. is fine for the environment. She enjoys She makes sure to keep her reusable the feeling of buying ‘pre-loved’ clothing coffee cup in her bag at all times. She and adores the vintage aesthetic. She likes that she can save money and the listens to podcasts like Wardrobe Crisis environment at the same time.

Figure 20 GEN Z ACTIVIST Pen Portrait (Author’s Own, 2020,)

28 29 THE GEN Z ACTIVIST THE GEN Z ACTIVIST

INPUT External Influences

Firm’s marketing efforts: Sociocultural environment Fast Fashion brands such as ASOS Fashion Revolution has posted a are a special discount for new instagram post reminding their prom dresses. followers to reconsider purchasing cheap dresses for going out

PROCESS CONSUMING BEHAVIOUR Need recognition Pre-purchase Evaluation of search alternatives Sarah had just finished Sarah searches for She first checks if there doing an audit of her are any suitable dresses in en Z’s core values are their pursuit In terms of their purchasing behaviour, closet and realised she dresses from the approved list of brands local thrift stores/charity G of truth and identity. (McKinsey, Gen Z demonstrates both hedonic and had no appropriate shops. The selection formalwear for the from eco age. She 2018) If a brand can tap into that niche, utilitarian behaviours depending on the sees a dress with an is limited this time of they will be able to gain their favour, but formal. She would ask year. She also considers circumstance. (Yurchisin and Johnson, to borrow from her embroidered hem she long-term brand loyalty is virtually non- 2010). When purchasing second hand really likes but it is out renting a dress using a friends but they do service such as Rent the existent for this demographic. They are or vintage, they can display hedonic not have anything in of her price range as a student. Runway. However, she ‘most motivated by price’ (Merriman, behaviour, as they may not be able to her size. She decides would really like to keep M. 2019). This is also reflected in purchase what they need but still partake she can make an this dress permanently the primary research, where despite in the activity as a social outing or they exception as long as it and decides to purchase is a responsible choice. considering themselves activists, 9 out of take pleasure in acting sustainably. In a a dress made of a 11 considered price the deciding factor more direct purchasing experience such sustainable material to to purchase a garment.(Appendix A) as from a sustainable online retailer, they customise herself. Gen Z is beginning to favour alternatives would do their research and purchase only to traditional retailers leading to the rise what they need, thus displaying utilitarian OUTPUT in the ‘divided closet’. ThredUp reports behaviours. This process is displayed in that the second-hand market will be Figure 21, where the consumer (Sarah larger than fast fashion within 10 years from Figure 20) is purchasing a dress for Purchase decision Post Purchase decision (2019). This could lead to decision a formal at University. She finishes embroidering the paralysis which is a ‘cognitive burden’ that She decides to purchase dress herself and is pleased with occurs when a consumer has too many the base dress from H&M’s the final result. She wears the options (Deloitte, 2019). Brooks (2015), conscious line. It is made from dress to the formal and gets argues that the ‘ethical consumer cannot 100% organic cotton. It fits complimented on it. She is sure well and suits her budget. She be expected to undertake an accurate that she will treasure and keep buys some embroidery thread this dress for the rest of her life. ethical audit’ with every purchase. A to match the dress she initially She considers doing this the next brand’s values must align with theirs wanted. time she needs another garment exceptionally for them to include them for a formal event in their evoked set of brands and avoid being considered inept and therefore Figure 21: Activist Consumer Decision Making Model considered unacceptable. (Appendix C) Adapted from Schiffman and Kanuk (2008)

30 31 3.1 LUXURY

CHAPTER 3 3.2 MID MARKET THE CURRENT INDUSTRY RESPONSE

3.3 FAST FASHION

3.4 SO WHAT ?

Figure 22: Adidas Parley for Oceans Sneakers on display at Avery Dennison Future Fabrics Exp9 (Author’s Own, 2020) 32 33 LUXURY RESPONSE

This chapter explores the industry response to these movements and consumer values throughout the levels of the fashion hierarchy in terms of sustainable efficiency. The topic of sustainability is interesting as we can see change and trends ‘Trickle Down’ and ‘Bubble Up’. (Figure 23). The growing consumer demand is ‘bubbling up’ responses from the mass market level and upwards yet material innovation and brand values are ‘trickling down’ from haute STELLA MCCARTNEY couture to fast fashion.

he case study for this level will be becoming bolder in their activism’ (Kent, TStella McCartney and how her 2019) She has a sustainable flagship that brand ethos and values in combination includes innovative alternative materials Haute Couture FIBRE with her innovative investments have with staff that are ready to answer INNOVATION made her a front runner in the world any sustainability question. (Figure 24) and Couture of sustainable fashion. “Love your clothes and make them last longer.” However, her status as a luxury brand This quote is featured on her site’s keeps her innovative products from High End Fashion sustainability page. McCartney has being accessible to the profitable Gen Z also expressed the sustainable activist and Millennials. There is also limited effect mindset wishing consumers “would on the environment as in comparison to Middle Market save up and buy one thing at Stella fast fashion, she produces substantially McCartney instead of the 20 things less. McCartney’s investments into they buy from a fast-fashion label” developing materials such as BoltThreads (The Guardian, 2019) (McCartney, 2020) give her a competitive Mass Market advantage and her early interaction with McCartney has made her stance on the issue puts her and her brand to the sustainability in fashion very clear top of the aspirational luxury brands for CONSUMER and it is evident in her campaign and the young Gen Z sustainable consumer. DEMAND Value Market material choices. Her brand ethos is on par with that of activist movements. The trickle-down theory (Figure 23) She has shown her support for XR by suggest that these values and actions will Figure 23: Model of trickle down theory and bubble up as displayed on the fashion having their activists as models for her hierarchy (Author’s Own, 2020, adapted from Kim et al, 2011 and Posner, 2015) eventually trickle their way down the Fall 2019 campaign, a move Business fashion hierarchy of Fashion calls ‘another sign that mainstream players in the industry are

34 35 LUXURY RESPONSE LUXURY RESPONSE

he augmented product model T demonstrates how extra value is added to a Stella McCartney product with her activist values and sustainability efforts. (Figure 25)

Augmented Product

Actual Product Figure 24: Stella McCartney Eco-flagship in London (Author’s Own, 2020) VEGAN RESALE VALUE Top: ECONYL Shoes and BRAND Core reclaimed plastic bench IMAGE Product

STAFF PRODUCT Middle: Regenerated KNOWLEDGE Cashmere Sweater in collaboration with environmentalist Jonathan Safran Foer Bottom: Biodegradeable Mannequin made from recycled sugar cane. CLASSIC LUXURY SUPPORTS ACTIVISMSTYLE QUALITY

STORE ENVIRONMENT

SUSTAINABLE ETHOS

Figure 25: The Three Levels of Product (Author’s Own, 2020 Adapted from Kotler, 2012)

36 37 MID MARKET RESPONSE MID MARKET RESPONSE

ADIDAS AND EVERLANE THE PLASTIC PARADOX

rguably, Adidas has gained activists But’ Jevons Paradox’ highlights a key issue: A favour in 2016, when they first ‘the greater efficiency of a commodity released their collaboration with in meeting the needs of consumers, Figure 26: Everlane ReNew Campaign, Garments made out of recycled PET (Everlane, 2018) Parley (Figure 22). Everlane has gained will increase its consumption’ (Alcott, popularity through its promises of radical 2012, cited in Muratovski, 2016). The transparency throughout its supply chain. popularity of the fibre has driven up its They, however, both share a target of cost and now prevents other industries removing all virgin polyester from their from utilizing it. The fibre industry supply chains and replacing it with its ‘consumes three-quarters of all rPET recyclable counterpart. (Figure 26) produced around the world every year.’ (Financial Times, 2019) (Segran, 2019). However, only 9% of the world’s bottles are recycled. (Segran, From a product perspective, this makes 2019) Therefore, unless consumers or a significant difference in fashion’s governments implement better recycling contribution to carbon emissions. , recycled PET is actually a scarce According to an analysis by The resource. Sustainable Angle (2019), for polyester, estimates suggest that substituting one metric ton of virgin polyester with its recyclable counterpart can reduce: toxic substances by up to 90%, energy consumption by 60% and emissions by up to 40%. Adidas had announced the release of the Futurecraft Loop, (Figure 27) their first 100% recyclable shoe, introducing circularity into the mid-market. But the shoe won’t be commercially available until 2024. (HighSnobiety, 2019)

Figure 27: Adidas Futurecraft:Loop, fully recyclable sneaker(Adidas, 2019)

38 39 FAST FASHION RESPONSE FAST FASHION RESPONSE

H&M - ZARA - GREENWASHING

he rise of fast fashion at the turn of On an episode of Netflix’s Patriot Act, Tthe century was perfect for when host Hasan Minhaj demonstrates how consumers who otherwise were unable minimal the sustainable efforts are in a to obtain runway fashion styles, could selection of items from H&M’s conscious Figure 28: Classic vs Fad (Author’s Own, 2020 Adapted from Brannon 2011) do so at a price suitable for their wallets. collection. Figure 29 features a dress However, the fast response system has from H&M conscious that has the ‘encouraged disposablility‘ (Joy et al, sustainability claim of utilising sustainable 2012) For fast-fashion brands such as wool. However, only 5% of the garment Zara and H&M, their solution was to is wool, the remainder being polyester create a diffusion line. “Join Life” and (Patriot Act, 2019). Activist movements “Conscious” respectively. However, the are able to utilise this information and sheer volume they continue to produce present in a way similar to this to make each year makes these efforts negligible. accessible to the everyday consumer. Inditex, alone, produced over 1.6 billion garments in 2018 (Inditex, 2019). As discussed in Chapter 1.1, a popular method of associating with a social cause Fast Fashion relies heavily on fad style is to create a slogan t-shirt which is types (Figure 28), purposefully designed extremely popular within the segment with planned obsolescence in mind. Fast of fast fashion. While a 100% organic Fashion’s value proposition of less for cotton t-shirt is less toxic than its non- less (Kotler, 2015) creates a range of organic counterpart, it is less efficient disposable garments and their sustainable in other areas such as water use. 70% diffusion lines, while a positive effort to of a garment’s impact comes from its spread the message sustainability, it is not production processes. (Mistra, 2017) sustainable with their current production According to Oxfam (2020) ‘buying 1 processes. new cotton t-shirt produces the same emissions as driving a car for 35 miles. ‘ Figure 29: Patriot Act: The Ugly Truth about Fast Fashion (Netflix, 2019)

Both dresses are made of 5% sustainable wool and 95% polyester

40 41 SO WHAT SO WHAT

SO WHAT

hrough these case studies, it is What is missing from the industry is the Tevident that the fashion industry lack of urgency and tackling problems is following the McKinsey prediction of beyond material choices. As evidenced ‘Sustainability First’ with these sustainable by their promises to reach an intangible initiatives being in line with activist values. goal within the next decade such as It appears the fashion industry has made Inditex’s claim that ‘100 per cent of the good progress on their sustainability cotton, linen and polyester they use will goals, but research from the Global either be more sustainable, organic or Fashion Agenda suggests otherwise. The recycled by 2025.’ (Shatzman, 2019) Pulse of The Fashion Industry Report 2019 revealed that despite improved Many activist movements find this to be social and environmental performance their main reason for the lack of progress (a 4-point increase), the fashion industry in the fashion industry. The climate crisis is far from being truly sustainable as will not wait for the fashion industry to the industry’s year on year growth and come up with better solutions. negative effects of that growth outweigh their sustainable efforts. A radical change is needed and it is not the industry’s chosen goal of ‘better’ ‘There is a high environmental impact consumption which allows for the same required for a short user phase.’ (Mistra, levels of consumption today. It’s ‘slower’ 2017) consumption.

Figure 30: Textile Waste (Redress, 2020)

42 43 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY

Figure 32: Triple Bottom Line model (University of Wisconsin)

CHAPTER 4 DOUGHNUT VS THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY TRIPLE BOTTOM LINE AND REGENERATIVE THINKING ne of the solutions XR has suggested However, the rate at which growth O(Figure 31) for the fashion industry is and sustainable progress are unequal Raworth’s Doughnut Economics Model to what the model proposes, fashion (2017), which reassesses the current brands aiming for continuous expansion economic model to fit the challenges of and growth is unsustainable given the the 21st century. This is done by setting world’s limited resources. Any business a social foundation and ecological ceiling claiming to be ‘sustainable’ with that goal (Appendix D) Step 1 for Doughnut is hypocritical. Economics is to redefine the goal of rising GDP as a signal of progress. By believing that infinite growth is possible brands and businesses have torn through the figurative ceiling’ Businesses have utilised the Triple Bottom Line Theory which encompasses the wellbeing of people, planet and profit (Elkington 1994, cited in Fernie and Grant, 2015), as justification for continuous growth.

Figure 31: XR Instagram Story promoting Doughnut Economics (Extinction Rebellion, 2020)

44 45 THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY

LINEAR VS CIRCULAR

oughnut Economics Step 6 is to In Chapter 3, brands have claimed to have Dutilise the circular economy. The closed the loop on their productions Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2020) system. However, the of the Figure 33: The Linear Economy (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2015) breaks down the concept of the circular official circular economy system Cradle economy into three pillars: ‘Designing out to Cradle, William McDonough and waste and pollution, keeping products Michael Braungart, have expressed and materials in use, or regenerating their distaste for this. In the process MAKE natural systems.’ of ‘upcycling’ a PET bottle in fibres, Transport Design For: which then becomes a garment. The Materials Recycling Design For: Activists, academics and designers are food-safe recyclable material has been USE Parts harvesting highly supportive of the circular economy downgraded and locked into a final state Remanufacturing Refurbishment model. Modern consumption habits have with no other recycling options currently Repair generated massive textile wastes which available. (McDonough and Braungart, Reuse have nowhere to go but the landfill. Only 2013) SAVE 1% of all clothing is effectively recycled back into production (Ellen MacArthur Activists are promoting the circular Collect Foundation, 2015). Although the current economy through encouraging fashion Reuse responses are more responsible choices, consumers to follow the three R’s they continue to feed into the linear Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. (Figure 34) economy. (Figure 33) The lack of frameworks supporting Remake CLAWDI demonstrates circular design business model innovation within the Waste by utilising only reclaimed materials and context of the circular economy hinders Japanese technique called boro. She calls it from becoming widely accepted. Recycle her process ‘from maker to wearer’, (Niinimäki, 2018) this develops a stronger relationship between consumer & product. Keeping Moving forward brands should not the garment in use for longer. But she look to just mitigate the impact of their has also reduced her use of trims and products but rather how they can give fastenings back. This is where regenerative design Figure 34: The Product Life Cycle for products in a circular economy. The emphasis on comes in. keeping products and materials in use through recovery operations. (Author’s Own, 2020 Adapted from Niinimäki, 2018)

46 47 REGENERATIVE THINKING REGENERATIVE THINKING

REGENERATIVE THINKING

Collet (2020) as part of the University of Arts London’s Maison/0 incubator programme has focused on researching how brands can focus on multiple goals at different levels in order to achieve the regenerative design target of reparative actions rather than the industry’s current strategy of just reduction of negative impact. However it is clear that this job will require collaboration from other industries to make the actions as effective as possible.

Figures 35 - 37. discuss this topic further.. Figure 36: Impact map for a standard cotton t-shirt. (The Sustainable Angle/Carole Collet, 2020)

Figure 35: A sliding scale of sustainable strategies for climate and emergency. Figure 37: Transition impact map demonstrating how a brand can utilise different (The Sustainable Angle/Carole Collet, 2020) circular strategies to work towards regenerative design. (The Sustainable Angle/Carole Collet, 2020)

48 49 5.1 NOW WHAT

5.2 COLLABORATION CHAPTER 5 RECOMMENDATIONS 5.3 SUGGESTION

5.4 PROOF OF CONCEPT

Figure 38: Patagonia Campaign Black Friday 2011 (Patagonia, 2011)

50 51 NOW WHAT NOW WHAT

HOW CAN ACTIVISTS HELP BUSINESSES AND VICE VERSA?

rands are realizing that playing it If a brand wants to successfully compete Bsafe is an unsustainable tactic and against the new noise and appeal to the this doesn’t just mean inaction (Mintel, target activist consumer. New methodsof 2019) Implementing activist values is business will need to be considered. not a guarantee for immediate success. This could be in the form of offering a A poorly produced product with PR service alongside a limited collection of motivated ‘sustainable’ features could garments. Or as Patagonia famously did lead to damaging claims of greenwashing. in 2011, ask consumers not to purchase This could have a negative effect as and instead repair. Patagonia (Figure the activist consumers will share the 38) and Nudie Jeans (Figure 39) both information leading to possible boycott offer repair services which improve the or dismissal of a brand altogether. circularity of their products.

This report understands that radical For a brand to truly understand the innovation requires time, therefore the activist consumer’s perspective, it following recommendations are merely would be a worthwhile consideration methods to bridge the gap between for the management team to add a systematic change and the current another segment to the traditional industry climate. As established in the innovation teams in production: Activist previous chapter, the changes made organizations. This is not a novel concept in response to activist movements either as activist group PETA has been have been focused on diversifying the advising retailers on going fur-free (Testa, product offerings with a sustainable 2020) alternative. Given the current trajectory and recommendations from industry Operating with a sustainable activist professionals and reports, sustainability mind-set can only benefit businesses as will no longer be a differentiating factor it is also cost-effective. but a baseline expectation for any brand. Figure 39: Nudie Jeans Repair Kit Guide (Author’s Own, 2020)

52 53 COLLABORATION SUGGESTION

“The fashion industry is built on secrecy, elitism, closed doors and unavailability,” – Orsola de Castro Figure 40: Avery Dennison Smart Tag (Author’s Own, 2020)

COLLABORATIONS SUGGESTION: BUSINESSES AND GOVERNMENTS COST PER WEAR TAG

eamwork will be vital to achieving Although keeping innovations private ast fashion needs to be considered The key objective of this project would Tthis goal of a regenerative future. would be a Unique Selling Point and F an addiction. In fact, a 2001 British be to align activists and brands towards a While each brand working on their own leads to better profits, the Gen Z Activist study by Publicis found that ‘far from common goal of informing the consumer would be able to achieve their product consumer will look down on the brands being a salve, the act of shopping can of the true value of the garment. This goals within time. The fashion industry that keep progress from happening. actually cause depressed feelings.’ (Press, simplifies the consumption decision to alone cannot do this. Thind (2018) argues that ‘[innovation] is 2016). This suggestion is to improve whether or not a consumer believes a bottom- up, voluntary and co- creation overall brand transparency while the the product is worth it for how long it A barrier to entry for smaller independent act’ and therefore collaboration would be brand develops and improves sustainable will last. The main factor of the circular brands is the lack of funds available to essential to developing good innovation. innovation. This should be used to bridge economy is to materials in rotation. them. The suggestion from Nina Marenzi the gap between brand, consumer, and While implementing sustainable fibres (2020) (Founder of The Sustainable GOVERNMENT INVOLVEMENT activists. is important, it is possibly more vital to Angle) is to work together with another Change on this scale will not be consume less. This doesn’t deter the small brand to collect enough for the achievable without legislative support. The following strategy is similar to that of consumer from Fast Fashion completely minimum order of a high cost material. A change of this magnitude cannot be the graphic images on cigarette packages but they can become more aware of put on the shoulders of businesses and in the way it’s a warning on what they the value. In the short term, fast fashion The Adidas and Allbirds collaboration is consumers alone. Legislative support are about to consume. This could be a appears to be cheaper but in the long breaking the rules of competition within on the issue of fashion sustainability collaboration between an environmental run, the opposite is true if the garment is the industry. (Vogue, 2020) Adidas has which is not currently being done. activist group and brands. One of the well cared for. Primary research suggests had the lead on ‘sustainable’ sneakers since The UK government rejected all biggest barriers for consumers to that the longer lasting option will be the release of their Parley Collaboration. 18 recommendations that were purchase sustainability is often the lack of received better. (Appendix A) Their choice to collaborate with a presented by the House of Commons knowledge. The concept will encourage competitor for the better good should Environmental Audit Committee. (UK consumers to think about their purchases With services like Klarna and Clearpay be held as the new industry standard as Parliament, 2019) Businesses and and consider a higher cost item rather allowing consumers to spread out their it fits with the current zeitgeist. “We are Consumers need to put pressure on than a lower cost item. for a better payments, this could allow ‘debt-ridden’ all in this together.” This also works as legislation together in order to aid the ‘perceived deal’ . This can appeal to price Millennials and Gen Z to purchase these a benefit to businesses as collaborative development of a circular economy as sensitive Gen Z as they have access to higher value items. efforts could mean the high investment this requires all three major stakeholders the information they need to make an costs of innovation development can be of society, Businesses, Governments, and informed purchase. In a recent study Proof of Concept is on the following spread and risks mitigated. (Posner, 2015) Consumers. of 1000 American adults, almost half page. (48%) report that lack of convenience and knowledge prevents them from purchasing sustainably (Genomatica, 2019). 54 55 PROOF OF CONCEPT On this page are samples of the The tags feature: proposed COST PER WEAR TAG. - The Price of the Garment This concept can be localised and adapted depending on the brand and - Predicted Wears charity/activist group. - Cost Per Wear The following examples are for the Hong Kong and UK market - A fact about The tag should be made of recycled - Which organization did the research paper. for the statistic PRICE PRICE GBP £175 The goal is to make information simple - QR code to the website of said HKD $175 and easy to digest for the consumer to organization spark interest. PREDICTED WEARS PREDICTED WEARS 1,950 15 - 30 COST PER WEAR COST PER WEAR GBP £0.08 HKD $3

RESEARCH BY RESEARCH BY

please scan the qr code to try the concept Figure 41: COST PER WEAR TAG DEMO, (Author’s Own, 2020) 6.1 THE END OF THE RUNWAY

CHAPTER 6 POST COVID-19 6.2 CONSUMERS AFTER COVID-19

Figure 42: Flatten this curve as well (TheSustainableFashionForum, 2020)

58 59 THE END OF THE RUNWAY THE END OF THE RUNWAY

Rather than a runway presentation or event, Anya Hindmarch filled her stores with plastic bottles to demonstrate the enormity of the problem of single use plastic This season, Hindmarch launched a ‘’ bag made with a cotton canvas feel recycled material which is made to last.

Figure 43: Extinction Rebellion Protestors holding a funeral for London Fashion Week (Immo Klink, 2019) Figure 44: Anya Hindmarch store filled with plastic bottles (Anya Hindamarch, THE END OF THE RUNWAY 2020)

he COVID-19 pandemic has offered We saw industry level responses from Tthe fashion industry a unique Anya Hindmarch (Figure 44) , and Patrick opportunity to reassess and restructure McDowell who hosted the first swap its systems. Brands that attempt to go shop at LFW in collaboration with the ‘back to normal’ are only delaying the Global Fashion Exchange (Figure 45). inevitable change that will be brought on Both of these designers swapped their post-pandemic and lead by the changed shows for a more circular and sustainable conscious fashion consumer. approach towards fashion.

“The runway show is one of the In May 2020, COVID-19 had prevented elements that drive us, again Fashion Weeks from ‘continuing as Patrick McDowell hosted a normal’. Many have transitioned to online swap shop in collaboration and again, to buy clothes we with the Global Fashion don’t really need.” (Tungate, events. (Hitti, 2020) Exchange. The event was 2004) powered by lablaco which Gucci, as well as several other luxury allowed shoppers to discover Post COVID-19, we could see a shift in brands, have announced that they the trail of ownership. and fashion presentation methods. were stepping away from the five show featured better transparency. fashion schedule and returning to two Figure 45: Patrick McDowell In September 2019, XR hosted a funeral shows only. (Hitti, 2020) Only through Swap Shop at London calling for the end of fashion week. (Figure the pandemic crisis did brands feel it was Positive Fashion Week X) They also penned a letter to the British necessary to do this, but not months (Lorenzo Berni, 2020) Fashion Council (BFC). The following prior when XR was protesting for the F/W season, the BFC responded saying climate and planet. they were already integrating a Positive Fashion Week alongside the traditional This demonstrates Crocker’s (2016, runways. cited in Muratovski, 2016) theory on the impact of the ethical consumer and activists as an ‘Important indicator’ of reputational anxieties.

60 61 CONSUMERS AFTER COVID-19 CONSUMERS AFTER COVID-19

CONSUMERS AFTER COVID-19

SN Global (2020) has predicted ‘DIY projects are highly prized for L two opposing theories on consumer authenticity’ (LSN Global 2020) For behaviour in a fashion industry Post smaller activist brands such as CLAWDI, Covid-19 The first scenario describes the pandemic would have deeply a shift back to ‘hedonism, extraversion affected a smaller owner but her local and exploration in the form of and devoted consumers have continued and ‘revenge buying’. to support her circular designs during Figure 46: Fashion During the pandemic there has been a this time (Appendix B) Revolution’s guide to rise in online retail and stores could be their focusing on experiences rather products The pandemic hasn’t deterred Revolution Week when they do reopen. After a traumatic fashion activists. Fashion Revolution (Fashion Revolution, 2020) event like the pandemic, consumers will who traditionally holds their Fashion be wanting to seek comfort in the form Revolution Week mid-April were able of old habits. And in fashion’s case that to shift to digital with minimal disruption. may be indulging in consumer goods. This (Figure 46) Climate change activist is already evident in countries where Maddie Graham said to The Washington lockdown has eased. Post that activism was ‘the easiest part of her life to make digital’ (Kaplan, 2020) With the second scenario, we could see a potential rise in consumers with Ultimately there is still much unknown the sustainable activist mind-set. The about the situation. Given the strength of second scenario involves minimalism, character and values that Gen Z activists introversion and focus. Returning to have and now their lowered economic normal after being in lockdown may have freedom (due to lack of jobs or income) some consumers feeling more conscious it’s appropriate to assume that they will about their consumption, driven from fall into the latter category of continuing a feeling of fear. During the quarantine, to be conscious of their consumption some may have chosen to learn new skills and becoming more vocal about their and XR have hosted sewing sessions as a values. form of performative activism during this Figure 47: Designer Cherie Chun making time. (Figure 47 ) her own clothing using deadstock fabric during self-isolation (Cherie Chun, 2020)

62 63 CONCLUSION

CONCLUSION

Figure 49: Juxtaposition between Timberland’s Purpose-Led Store and a large amount of he aim of this report was to explore the There is a clear consumer shift in sentiment. discarded waste. (Author’s Own, 2020) T impact of the activist consumer. It is clear Applying The Diffusion of Innovation Curve that the activist consumer has much more to (Figure 48) to this trend, the current level of offer than just an opposing force to current adoption appears to be Early Adopters, with Through the growing education and awareness of Ultimately, the sustainable activist ‘consumer’ is a fashion practices. We are beginning to see the a large percentage of a generation holding consumers thanks to activist movements that we misleading title for this growing consumer group. changes activists have made to the industry by this anti-consumerist mindset. The COVID-19 can see pressure is being applied to the industry. If the fashion industry fails to meet their standards working within it. The limitations of this report pandemic has arguably expedited this process However, a solution is not black and white. and values for what they can consider responsible have unfortunately led to several important and we could soon begin to see laggards Sharing a is not equal to a year of boycott consumption. They will simply choose to not social aspects of activism not being discussed adopting these lifestyles. and vice versa. Choosing to only purchase second purchase at all, which is not a future that should and examined. The climate change discussion is hand will not reduce microfiber pollution and an be considered. The climate crisis is the fashion privileged in the fact that there is less conflict organic cotton t-shirt is not a save all end all. The industry’s biggest competitor. between economic and environmental goals. Circular Economy is a good start to changing the Even with the benefits, environmental strategies Laggards fashion industry for good. The true impact of the “Hope lies only with the building can provide businesses are hesitant to implement activist consumer lies not within an individual’s of momentum through action, them. Therefore, fighting for social causes will be spending choices but rather the community’s activism and critical research, the an even harder uphill battle as fashion moves Later Majority ability to spread and share information. As forces able to bring that horizon forward into the future. consumer awareness grows, organic cotton and closer” (Brooks, 2015) recycled PET may not be enough for a brand to be considered sustainable any more. Activist Late Majority movements offer more than a community for like-minded people, they provide a service and serve to bring attention to the issues the industry is too scared to face. A regenerative, transparent fashion system is the best possible way for the Early Majority industry to move forward. And brands that Figure 48: The Diffusion of get a head start and invest in opportunity and Innovation Curve innovation will be the ones that survive in the end. A symbiosis of the past and the future. Past (Author’s Own , 2020, Early Adopters Adapted from Raymond, strategies with new innovations. This will require 2015) collaboration between all major stakeholders of the fashion industry. Consumers, Businesses, and Governments. Innovators 64 65 APPENDIX & BIBLIOGRAPHY

66 67 APPENDIX APPENDIX

Appendix A: Primary Research Survey Results 5. Which fashion brands are the most sustainable? 8. Have you heard of the campaign #whomademyclothes? 12. Where have you purchased second hand clothing?

Ye s 16 Online Resale 11 No clue Charity Shops Levi’s No 10 Charity/Thrift Patagonia/Timberland ISKO Boden Allbirds Shop 22 Vintage Kilo 12 1. What is your age? Lucy and Yak Fast Fashion? Reformation Sale Have Never 3 Nudie Jeans Don’t Care Luxury Brands 9. How have you heard about the campaign Purchased 18 - 24 23 #whomademyclothes? H&M M&S Vintage Outlets 25 - 34 3 Social 14 Stella McCartney Adidas TALA 35 - 54 0 Media 13. Rank the reasons for purchasing secondhand in order of importance for you 55+ 0 Not too sure Smaller Businesses People Tree Posters 2 Puma 1st 2nd 3rd 4th Zara Veja News 3 2. What is your gender? Magazine Price Articles 5 6. Do you consider yourself a climate change activist? Male 19 Academic 3 Style Ye s 11 Research Female 3 From Environmental Other No 15 Peers 7 Sustainability 1 Prefer Never Quality Not To 0 Heard 10 7. Why or Why Not? Say of it

3. Have you ever purchased a ‘sustainable’ fashion I DO 10. Rank the following in order of importance when de- - I care about the planet. - I am trying to make more product? ciding to purchase a garment (aside from style, fit, - I am passionate about saving sustainable choices and colour) e.g. any fashion product with a ‘sustainable’ label, the planet convince my family to do marketed as ‘sustainable’, products containing 14. Have you ever rented clothing? - I speak about my advocacy the same 1st 2nd 3rd 4th organic/recycled materials such as organic cotton to people around me - I have a strong concern or recycled PET - I actively share my views for the future Ye s 0 about climate change Country of - Use my behaviour to Manufacture - I care about the show it as well as educate No 26 Ye s 23 environment and try my best others. Price - I follow a youth climate - I take part in XR strikes No 3 strike on Instagram and vegan Materials - I protest and care Cleaning I DON’T Directions - Don’t actively participate 4. Do you ever research products for the best option - I don’t speak out enough - I don’t think actively share but am vegetarian/vegan (in terms of sustainability)? information or go to protests - Don’t protest e.g. have you ever researched which is the best type of - I care but I am not zero - I haven’t directly 15. Have you ever swapped clothing? reusable straw? waste and I think that is more participated like an activist - I feel passionate about 11. Have you ever purchased clothing second hand? - It doesn’t matter what I do the environment but don’t Ye s 13 Ye s 23 Ye s 15 - I don’t want to label myself act enough - I don’t do enough, I still buy - Haven’t been to a No 13 No 3 No 11 fast fashion protest - I haven’t been involved - I don’t do anything - Don’t really talk about it - I don’t do anything

68 69 APPENDIX APPENDIX

16. How do you normally dispose of your unwanted 20. The high cost of sustainable products prevents me clothing? (tick all that apply) from purchasing them” 24. Do you value experiences over purchasing items? To what extent do you agree? Charity/ 25 Donation Gifts to 15 Strongly Disagree 0 Friends/Family Ye s 20 Disagree 5 Dispose in 3 Waste Bin No 6 Neither Agree or Disagree 4 Recycling in 3 Stores Agree 13 Selling Online 8 Strongly Agree 4 25. Would you ever protest a brand for behaving unethically/unsustainably? 17. Would you consider ‘shopstopping’ or Boycotting Fast 21. Which do you think is more beneficial to This could be sharing a post or hashtag on social media Fashion to be more sustainable? stopping climate change? Purchasing only sustainable e.g. #boycottzara, going to a public rally, writing ‘Shopstopping’ or ‘shopstopped’ is the act of not products or purchasing less overall? letters to companies purchasing new items unless absolutely necessary 21 Ye s Only Ye s 21 Sustainable 4 No 5 Purchasing No 5 Less 22

26. Who should be held responsible for climate change? 22. Would you be willing to pay more for 18. Do you value environmental sustainability? Is it environmentally sustainable clothing? How much important to you? more? Consumers 0 11 1 - Extremely Important 5% 4 Businesses 1

2 - Highly Important 5 10% 9 Governments 2 3 - Moderately Important 10 20% 11 All of the 23 above 4 - Not Important 0 50% 1 None of the 0 above 5 - Extremely Unimportant 0 100% 1

27. Who has the most impact on climate change? 19. Have you ever purchased a reusable coffee cup? Why? 23. Would you rather purchase a sustainable product (Tick all that apply) that lasts longer for a higher price or a sustainable product which is ethical to dispose of quickly for a To save money/Discounts 8 lower price? 1 on drinks Consumers Aesthetics/I liked the Businesses design 6 For example, a sweater made of high quality wool 4 meant to last 10 years priced at £45 or a top that can Governments Sustainability 18 easily be recycled at accessible locations for £15 5 All of the Paper cups weren’t Longer lasting above 1 sustainable product 18 16 available for higher price None of the I have never purchased a 3 above 0 Disposable 8 reusable coffee cup sustainable garment for lower price

70 71 APPENDIX APPENDIX

Appendix B: Interview with Brand Owner/ What does sustainability mean to you? Do you Your designs are sold as one of a kind and - I would assume it would be detrimental to brands if Activist/Designer Claudi Rensburg have a specific definition you refer to? direct to consumer, do you see this business they don’t respond as consumer behaviour & interest model making it to the mainstream as society is rapidly changing / more information on the negative - Personally I focus on the waste side of sustainability encourages slow fashion and ‘lowsumerism’? - Through my work I practice using the materials that are environmental impacts of fashion become widely spread (the conversation surrounding unethical/unsustainable already available around us rather than producing new - I would like to see it become a more mainstream fashion practice is getting bigger everyday now) virgin materials & exhausting already depleted natural business model resources - 50 years ago custom made/ tailor made clothing was Or is it up to the consumer to no longer - I am interested in how we can design using the waste the norm, its about returning to what fashion was & support these brands? we already have & learn to design with less waste in the reconnecting with the craft/ skill of making clothing future - I think the blade swings both ways, both brands & Where do you see your business going, growth consumers have a responsibility to sell & buy to match How have you implemented circular economy wise? Are you planning on expanding? and/or sustainable in your their own ethical / sustainable code designs? - Clawdi grew very organically, I don’t have any plans - But as a designer/ the one who is creating the clothing right now to rush into scaling up the business & putting it out into the world I feel largely responsible Circular - My mission with Clawdi is becoming more focussed for the impact each garment has on the environment – Designing with the full life cycle of each garment in on the message behind the brand rather than increasing - Designers do have the primary responsibility (also mind. production opportunity) to educate & empower their consumers – Using primarily up-cycled natural fibres with a lower - If I was to expand I would like to do it in a very on how to shop responsibly, environmental impact when disposed of at the end of alternative local way, setting up different studios that - Through Clawdi I have created a community of like its use focus on using what waste is available around that area/ minded followers who want to learn how their clothing – By adding value to & encouraging a second-hand rather than working with the same materials I am in is made, they understand/ value the process of creating culture I hope to have these coats circulated, bought, sold Australia – there is plenty of waste all over the world clothing & want to shop from/support a small, local & & passed on to be worn as long as possible/ extend its that should be utilised. sustainable brand user life span How has being an activist changed the way you – I try to avoid adding trims, fastenings or different What brands come to mind as the most view the fashion industry? innovative and industry leaders in guiding fashion fibres to my designs, ultimately achieving a more circular How has your brand Clawdi been inspired by towards sustainability? garment. With fewer mixed fibres/materials these coats climate change activist movements? - Prior to studying I already knew the fashion industry are easier to process through textile recycling when they had a devastating negative impact, feeling conflicted by - There are plenty of large brands like Patagonia, Nike, are no longer wearable - Prior to launching Clawdi I had worked in fundraising my passion to protect our environment & my love for Stella McCartney which play a significant role in leading - Mending, repairing & redesigning for a couple conservation groups in Australia (way back in creating clothing there was no alternative but to marry innovative technologies that contribute to the field of - I do ready made & custom order coats. Working directly 2014). This is where I was first introduced to activism. The these two together sustainable fashion with the customer to create custom garments, which I most important lesson I learnt through this work was that - I think when designers become activists they contribute - Also more emerging sustainable/ethical brands popping like to call ‘from maker to wearer’, develops a stronger ‘it’s all about planting the seed, starting the conversation’ a unique & important perspective to the conversation. up everday relationship between consumer & product. Keeping the - I took this approach to fashion activism & now use the Making it easier to educate consumers on how their - In Australia the brand Romance Was Born has been garment in use for longer brands platforms as a way to raise awareness & relay clothing is made & empower them to become active in using dead stock / waste materials for years – although information on important environmental issues not only reducing the impact of their own clothing not specifically to reduce textile waste they utilise practice/ Up-cycling related to fashion - Through my experience I have learnt to work within waste materials to celebrate creativity & craft, designing - All of the materials we use are sourced from second- - Fashion plays a huge part in polluting, using & discarding the industry if you want to make real change, help incredibly unique garments on a commercial scale hand stores or donations precious natural resources/ our environment & everyone find alternative practices with lower impact on the - Other brands I love: - We design smaller accessories like bucket hats & bags engages with fashion on a daily basis so ultimately the environment 1. Carcel (although not so much about sustainable to be made from the Re:Wool Coat cut off waste climate change movement is everyone’s responsibility materials) they have a very innovative supply chain with - My design philosophy is to take something old of broken - Clawdi has been built from a foundation of environmental Do you believe larger brands have a all production in partnership with women prisons. They & give it a new, more beautiful life. Holes in the blankets sustainability, my aim was to create clothing with a positive responsibility to respond directly to activist provide valuable work, skill & wages to women across message & my ultimate goal is not to be a huge successful are mending, rather than considering these imperfections demands? For example, animal rights campaigns against Canada Goose. Is it detrimental to the globe https://carcel.co brand but to help steer the fashion industry/ consumers as damage they are seen as a design feature in honour of brands if they don’t respond to them? 2. Weekday is a Swedish brand with a whole the textiles previous life into a more sustainable future ‘responsibility’ page on their website where they share - We have been selling the same style coat for over 3 - Personally I believe every brand big or small has the information on the materials they use like organic years now, designing a garment that is trans-seasonal, responsibility to respond to activist demands but it cotton, recycled materials, their plastic, water & chemical able to withstand changing trends in the fashion cycle will ultimately depends on their own ethical & moral code waste as well as CO2 impacts, animal rights issues & fair increase it’s user lifespan labour! https://www.weekday.com/en/index.html 72 73 APPENDIX APPENDIX

Appendix C: Brand Selection Model Adapted from Schiffman and Kanuk (2008)

This diagram demonstrates how brands filter throught to become a purchased brands. Many newer What organisations/movement leaders do you As a business owner and designer, how do brands may be in the Unknown Set until a fellow activist lets them know. It is important to avoid look to for guidance on learning about circular you see the fashion industry changing in a and sustainable mindsets? world after COVID-19? bad PR to not be considered a part of the Inept or Inert Set. All Brands - REDRESS! They have always been a huge inspiration to - Due to the nature of Clawdi already being a small me, I’ve been following the work they do for almost 10 scale local business not much has changed for us years now – they were also the first organisation that during this time introduced me to the issue of textile waste - I have been blessed with supportive & loyal - Fashion Revolution: I consider their work my primary followers/customers who have continued to keep Known Unknown reference when it comes to ethical manufacturing & the business alive during this tough time which I am Brands Brands garment worker rights So grateful for - The UN: obviously this is a big one but what I find - I think consumers are more inclined to shop locally most interesting is their 17 & sustainably at the moment with the disruption of goals, especially goal 12 – responsible consumption & global supply chains, international shipping delays & Acceptable Unacceptable Indifferent Overlooked production. In December 2018 the UN also launched the industry rapidly slowing down Brands Brands Brands Brands the Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action – which - I read an interesting article by Li Edelkoort, a Evoked Set Inept Set Inert Set I believe is really highlighting the importance of taking dutch trend forecaster & author of the Anti-Fashion action against issues of unsustainable fashion production Manifesto, discussing how COVID-19 may be a / finding more responsible supply chain/ manufacturing blessing in disguise with a return to local shopping & Purchased Not Purchased alternatives manufacturing Brands Brands https://www.dezeen.com/2020/03/09/li-edelkoort- In your opinion, in which facet of the circular coronavirus-reset/ economy (Ellen Macarthur Foundation Definition) do you believe the fashion industry Appendix D: Doughnut Economics is weakest in? Designing out waste and pollution, keeping products and materials in use, or The essence of Doughnut Economics is that there is safe to operate that can allow for people regenerating natural systems? planet and profit to thrive. Raworth, K (2017) Doughnut Economics: Seven Ways to Think Like a 21st Century Economist - To be honest the fashion industry is weak on each of London: Random House Business Books those fronts, in terms of weakest I would have to say keeping products & materials in use due to the current fast-fashion dominated industry with its unsustainable accelerated trend turnover - I say this because I think keeping products & materials in use would be the easiest & most efficient way for the industry to tackle its problem with waste (although not a complete solution) - Next would be design out waste & pollution then regenerating natural systems, if we can keep already existing materials & products in use for longer there would be less strain on already depleted natural resources / less harm of producing / exhausting new virgin materials

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Perna, M., (2019). Gen Z Is Already Changing The World—Just Ask Time’S 2019 Person Of The Year. [online] Figure 7: Beyond Retro (2014)[online] Available at: https://www.beyondretro.com/blogs/news/the-suffrag- Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/markcperna/2019/12/27/gen-z-is-already-changing-the- ettes-fashion-activists world-just-ask-times-2019-person-of-the-year/#56fa930f41e2 [Accessed 1 June 2020]. Figure 8: Business Insider (2015) [online] Available at: http://static2.businessinsider.com/image/518bb- Plante, S., (2019.) Shopping Has Become A Political Act. Here’S How It Happened.. [online] Vox. Available at: 0b4ecad04f65d00001a/how-nike-solved-its-sweatshop-problem.jpg https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2019/10/7/20894134/consumer-activism-conscious-consumerism-explained [Accessed 1 June 2020]. Figure 9: Harper’s Bazaar (2019) [online] Available at: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/a27191483/ katharine-hamnett-interview-sustainability/ Plautz, J., (2020). The Environmental Burden Of Generation Z. [online] The Washington Post. Available at: https://www.washingtonpost.com/magazine/2020/02/03/eco-anxiety-is-overwhelming-kids-wheres-line-be- Figure 10: Boohoo (2020) [online] Available at: https://www.boohoo.com/i-am-a-woman-slogan-t-shirt/ tween-education-alarmism/?arc404=true [Accessed 1 June 2020]. FZZ63931.html?color=173

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The Business of Fashion. (2020). Stella Mccartney Taps Anti-Consumption Activists To Sell More Clothes. Figure 16: Author’s Own (2020) The Simplified Activist Network of Influence [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/stella-mccartney-taps-anti-con- sumption-activists-to-sell-more-clothes [Accessed 4 June 2020]. Figure 17: Fashion Revolution (2017)[online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/2017-impact/

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Figure 19: Author’s Own (2020) Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs Adapted from Posner, H. (2015). Marketing Figure 38: Patagonia (2011) [online] Available at: https://www.patagonia.com/stories/dont-buy-this-jacket- Fashion, Second edition. 2nd ed. London: Laurence King Publishing. black-friday-and-the-new-york-times/story-18615.html

Figure 20: Author’s Own (2020) GEN Z Activist Pen Portrait Figure 39: Author’s Own (2020) Scan of Nudie Jeans Brochure (2020)

Figure 21: Author’s Own (2020) Activist Consumer Decision Making Model Adapted from Schiffman, L and Figure 40: Author’s Own (2020) Image of Avery Denisson Smart Tag Kanuk, L 2008 Consumer Behaviour Prentice Hall Figure 41: Author’s Own (2020) Cost Per Wear Tag Demo Figure 22: Author’s Own (2020) Adidas Parley Shoes at Future Fabrics Expo Figure 42: The Sustainable Fashion Forum (2020) [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/p/B-Px- Figure 23: Author’s Own (2020) Model of trickle down theory as displayed on the fashion hierarchy Adapt- HoVHoFE/ ed from Kim, E., Fiore, A.M. and Kim, H. (2011) Fashion Trend: Analysis and Forecasting. London: Bloomsbury Figure 43: Immo Klink, (2019) [online] Available at: https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/extinction-rebel- Figure 24: Author’s Own (2020) Stella McCartney Eco Flagship Store lion-london-fashion-week-climate-change-protests

Figure 25: Author’s Own (2020)Three Levels of Product Adapted from Kotler, P (2012) Principles of Market- Figure 44: Anya Hindmarch (2020) [online] Available at: https://www.anyahindmarch.com/en-GB/i-am-a-plas- ing 14th ed. Harlow: Financial Times Prentice Hall. tic-bag.html

Figure 26: Everlane (2018) [online] Available at: https://www.wired.com/story/plastics-in-fashion-everlane-re- Figure 45 Lorenzo Berni (2020) [online] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/roddyclarke/2020/05/27/ new/ global-fashion-exchange-launches-new-digital-swapping-platform/#6ce662b06df1

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Figure 28: Author’s Own (2020) Classic vs Fad Adapted from Brannon, E. (2011). . New Figure 47: Cherie Chun (2020) [online] Available at: https://www.instagram.com/chezzachooun/ York: Fairchild Books. Figure 48: Author’s Own (2020) Author’s Own (2018) The Diffusion of Innovation Curve Adapted from Figure 29: Netflix (2019) [online] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGF3ObOBbac Raymond, M. (2010). The Trend Forecaster’s Handbook. London: Laurence King.

Figure 30: Redress (2019) [online] Available at: https://www.redressdesignaward.com/learn/sourcing Figure 49: Author’s Own (2020) Timberland Purpose Led Store Carnaby Street

Figure 31: Author’s Own (2020) Screenshot of XR Instagram 26 May 2020

Figure 32: University of Wisconsin [online] Available at: https://sustain.wisconsin.edu/sustainability/triple-bot- tom-line/

Figure 33: Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2015) [online] Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation. org/news/a-new-textiles-economy-redesigning-fashions-future-download-the-report-infographics

Figure 34: Author’s Own (2020) The Product Life Cycle for products in a circular economy. Adapted from Niinimäki, K., (2018.) Sustainable Fashion In A Circular Economy. Espoo, Finland: Aalto University.

Figure 35: The Sustainable Angle/Collet C. (2020) Materials Solutions Introduction Episode [Webinar]. Avail- able at: shorturl.at/GIMQ5 Accessed 10 May 2020

Figure 36:The Sustainable Angle/Collet C. (2020) Materials Solutions Introduction Episode [Webinar]. Avail- able at: shorturl.at/GIMQ5 Accessed 10 May 2020

Figure 37:The Sustainable Angle/Collet C. (2020) Materials Solutions Introduction Episode [Webinar]. Avail- able at: shorturl.at/GIMQ5 Accessed 10 May 2020 82 83