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Unlocking the Reuse Revolution for Fashion: a Canadian Case Study

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Unlocking the Reuse Revolution for Fashion: a Canadian Case Study Unlocking the Reuse Revolution for Fashion: A Canadian Case Study by Laura Robbins Submitted to OCAD University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Design in Strategic Foresight & Innovation Toronto, Ontario, Canada, 2019 Copyright Notice This document is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial- ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0). https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc- sa/4.0/ You are free to: • Share — copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format • Adapt — remix, transform, and build upon the material Under the following conditions: • Attribution — You must give appropriate credit, provide a link to the license, and indicate if changes were made. You may do so in any reasonable manner, but not in any way that suggests the licensor endorses you or your use. • NonCommercial — You may not use the material for commercial purposes. • ShareAlike — If you remix, transform, or build upon the material, you must distribute your contributions under the same license as the original. ii ABSTRACT This research aims to explore the potential of clothing reuse as a stepping stone towards a more circular economy for fashion. A systems approach to problem finding, framing, and solving is applied to explore how we might increase fashion reuse behaviours amongst consumers and industry alike. This research includes an analysis of the key barriers that prevent higher rates of participation in fashion reuse despite the potential economic, environmental, and social benefits of doing so (Part 2), and identifies areas of opportunity to focus innovation (Part 3). Research methodology included more than 30 one-on-one consumer interviews, 20 interviews with industry professionals along the fashion value chain, and an extensive environmental scan with a particular focus on the Canadian market. While this research aims to be accessible for all, the intended audience for this paper includes industry professionals, individual consumers, and regulators with the desire or agency to create meaningful change to the current fashion system in Canada and beyond. This study identified a variety of psychological and physical barriers preventing reuse adoption. For consumers, this is primarily a self-regulation challenge, enabled by our biological design and a cultural environment that has been purposefully constructed to exploit consumer behaviour for profit. This is further reinforced by a deep stigma towards used fashions within a culture that values newness and convenience above quality and longevity. For industry, fast fashion business models challenge both the economics and practicality of reuse, while lack of regulation and barriers to scale reuse models enable the status quo to persist. An analysis of these barriers suggests several points of leverage to focus resources and efforts for innovation to drive increased participation in fashion reuse. Emergent examples from fashion reuse are presented and discussed to inspire action in four key opportunity areas for innovation including: (1) destigmatizing used clothing; (2) addressing our culture of accumulation and disposal; (3) increasing the attractiveness of reuse for consumers; and (4) motivating increased industry participation. Clothing reuse may not be the sole solution to the global fashion industry’s long-term sustainability challenges but it is a critical step along the path to creating a more circular and sustainable economy in which fashion can flourish and provides a mechanism for changing the way we think about the true cost, and potential value, of our clothing. While this research sheds light on many of the challenges and innovation opportunities that exist for clothing reuse on the horizon, turning insight into action is a key next step for further exploration. Key words: Fashion; Reuse; Circular Economy; Resale; Second-hand iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS To those who lent their time, expertise, feedback, unwavering support, empathy, and/or encouragement to push onwards, I am humbled with gratitude. Special acknowledgements go out to my Primary Advisor, Dr. Nabil Harfoush, and Secondary Advisor, Laura Dempsey (who very much inspired this research undertaking) for their brilliance and ongoing commitment to my success. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS PART 1: WHY WE SHOULD ALL CARE ABOUT FASHION REUSE ....................................... 1 1.0 A MACRO VIEW OF THE PROBLEM SPACE .................................................................. 2 Today’s Fashion Landscape and How We Got Here ........................................................... 2 The Circular Economy: A Paradigm Shift on the Horizon .................................................... 4 1.1 RESEARCH QUESTION & OBJECTIVES ........................................................................ 6 1.2 RESEARCH FRAMING & INTENDED AUDIENCE ........................................................... 8 1.3 RESEARCH METHODOLOGY ......................................................................................... 9 Secondary Sources ......................................................................................................... 9 Primary Sources .............................................................................................................10 1.4 RESEARCH SCOPE .......................................................................................................11 1.5 REUSE, AN OLD SOLUTION TO NEW PROBLEMS? ....................................................11 Environmental Impacts ...................................................................................................12 Economic Impacts ..........................................................................................................14 Social Impacts ................................................................................................................15 PART 2: AN ANALYSIS OF CANADA’S FASHION REUSE SYSTEM - UNCOVERING THE BARRIERS TO GROWTH & ADOPTION .................................................................................17 2.0 FASHION REUSE 101 ....................................................................................................18 The Components of Reuse ................................................................................................18 Garments .......................................................................................................................18 “Buyers” & “Sellers” ........................................................................................................19 Intermediaries.................................................................................................................19 Key Threats to Fashion Reuse on The Horizon ..................................................................21 2.1 CONDITIONS FOR REUSE TO FLOURISH ....................................................................22 2.2 KEY STAKEHOLDERS AND RELATIONSHIPS ..............................................................24 The Players ........................................................................................................................25 The Reuse Industry ........................................................................................................25 Fashion Retailers ...........................................................................................................26 Consumers .....................................................................................................................27 Charities .........................................................................................................................27 v The Influencers ..................................................................................................................28 Government ...................................................................................................................28 Educators .......................................................................................................................28 Non-Profit Advocates ......................................................................................................29 2.3 REUSE INDUSTRY BARRIERS TO GROWTH ...............................................................29 Fast Fashion ......................................................................................................................29 Reliance on Individuals ......................................................................................................31 Value-Based Business Models ...........................................................................................32 Awareness & Scalability .....................................................................................................33 Competitive Mindset ..........................................................................................................35 2.4 CONSUMER BARRIERS TO FASHION REUSE .............................................................35 The Invisible Impact of Fast Fashion ..................................................................................36 Influencers and the Cult(ure) of New ..................................................................................37 The Stigma of Used ...........................................................................................................39 Clothing Donation & The Myth of Disposability ...................................................................40 Buying & Selling
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