Reconstruction Project Briefs
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Indian Textile Industry Happy with GST Rates on Cotton Value Chain, but Disappointed at High Rates on Man-Made Fibres and Yarns P26
Apparel Online India 2 2 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2017 | www.apparelresources.com www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2017 | Apparel Online India 3 4 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2017 | www.apparelresources.com 4 Apparel Online India www.apparelresources.com | JUNE 16-30, 2017 | Apparel Online India 5 Apparel Online India 5 CONTENT Vol. XX ISSUE 6 JUNE 16-30, 2017 World Wrap 38 Fashion Activism: Voice your opinion; designers join the political debate p12 Fashion Business Tied together with a smile: Focus on Fastenings and Closures for Fall/Winter 2017-18 Sustainability H2F KPR Mills: Phenomenal Diversification: educational initiatives make The survival key for many unfulfilled dreams medium-level exporters come true p16 in Delhi-NCR p30 22 Market Update Challenges apart, Japan has huge scope for Indian exporters FFT Trends Key Silhouettes and Details: Fall/Winter 2017-18 p33 Resource Centre Navis Global keeping pace with global demand; Asian markets account for 75% of business p58 Tex-File Indian textile industry happy with GST rates on cotton value chain, but disappointed at high rates on man-made fibres and yarns p26 6 Apparel Online India | JUNE 16-30, 2017 | www.apparelresources.com E-FIT PROVIDING SUPPLY CHAIN SOLUTIONS DURING PRE-PRODUCTION ACTIVITIES Intertek oers state-of-the-art studio endowed with modern automated technology utilizing the 3-dimensional software for the E-FIT check and fabric consumption calculation. E-FIT uses advance technology to moderate the requirements with minimizing operation cost. Contact -
GREEN AMERICAN GREENAMERICA.ORG the High Cost of Clothes
WINTER 2019 ISSUE 116 LIVE BETTER. SAVE MORE. INVEST WISELY. MAKE A DIFFERENCE. GREEN GREENAMERICA.ORG AMERICAN Unraveling the Fashion Industry It’s easy to ignore the huge influence garments have on workers and the planet. Luckily, activists and businesses are working to make the fashion industry better. If you wear clothes, you can too. ARE THESE TRENDS WORKER- FROM FAST WHAT HAPPENS GREEN OR APPROVED SOCIAL TO FAIR TO UNWANTED GREENWASHED? p. 10 RESPONSIBILITY p. 20 FASHION p. 24 CLOTHES? p. 27 VisionCapital ColorLogo Ad 3/29/06 9:29 PM Page 1 FREE IS YOUR YOUR MONEY VALUES BIG GAP IN BETWEEN? GOOD YOU CAN BRIDGE THE GAP with ▲▲▲▲▲▲ Individualized Portfolios Customized Social Criteria High Positive Social Impact Competitive Financial Returns Personalized Service Fossil Free Portfolios. Low Fixed Fees David Kim, President, a founder of Learn more at socialk.com Working Assets, in SRI since 1983. 1.800.366.8700 www.visioncapitalinvestment.com VISION CAPITAL INVESTMENT MANAGEMENT Socially Responsible Investing Were you born in 1949 or earlier? If you answered yes to that question, and you have a traditional IRA, then there’s a smarter way to give to Green America! You can make a contribution, also known as a Qualified Charitable Distribution (QCD), from your IRA that is 100% tax free, whether or not you itemize deductions on your tax return. Learn more about QCD donations and make a gift that will grow the green economy for the people and the planet. Visit FreeWill.com/qcd/ GreenAmerica to get started. FreeWill is not a law firm and its services are not a substitute for an attorney’s advice. -
What Not to Wear: Policing the Body Through Fashion Criticism
What Not to Wear 1 What Not to Wear: Policing the Body through Fashion Criticism By Kate Rothschild A Major Research Project The Ryerson School of Fashion Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of Master of Arts Supervisor: Dr. Lu Ann Lafrenz Second Reader: Dr. Irene Gammel Ryerson University Toronto, Ontario, Canada April 2018 © Kate Rothschild, 2018 What Not to Wear 2 AUTHOR'S DECLARATION FOR ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION OF A MRP I hereby declare that I am the sole author of this MRP. This is a true copy of the MRP, including any required final revisions. I authorize Ryerson University to lend this MRP to other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I further authorize Ryerson University to reproduce this MRP by photocopying or by other means, in total or in part, at the request of other institutions or individuals for the purpose of scholarly research. I understand that my MRP may be made electronically available to the public. What Not to Wear 3 Acknowledgements The completion of this Major Research Project would not have been possible without the guidance, encouragement, and patience I received from my advisor, Dr. Lu Ann Lafrenz, and my second reader Dr. Irene Gammel, who both went out of their way to help me shape and edit this essay, for which I am most grateful. I also thank the other professors I worked with at Ryerson, notably Jill Andrew whose course on diversity in fashion opened my mind and changed my outlook on clothing and clothing wearers forever. -
From #Boycottfashion to #Lovedclotheslast
From #BoycottFashion To #LovedClothesLast Understanding the Impact of the Sustainable Activist Consumer and How Activist Movements are Shaping a Circular Fashion Industry Hilary Jade Ip Final Fashion Management Project sustainable noun able to be maintained at a certain rate or level activist noun a person who campaigns to bring about political or social change consumer noun a person who purchases goods and services for personal use. FINAL FASHION MANAGEMENT PROJECT WORD COUNT: 7050 STUDENT ID: 29483816 This report has been printed on 100% recycled paper CONTENTS 7 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY 8 INTRODUCTION 10 METHODOLOGY 12 CHAPTER 1: FASHION ACTIVISM 25 CHAPTER 2: THE ACTIVIST CONSUMER 32 CHAPTER 3: THE CURRENT INDUSTRY RESPONSE 44 CHAPTER 4: THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY 50 CHAPTER 5: RECOMMENDATION 58 CHAPTER 6: POST COVID-19 64 CONCLUSION 67 APPENDIX 76 BIBLIOGRAPHY 5 EXECUTIVE SUMMARY This report provides an investigative analysis of the ‘sustainable’ activist consumer and how activist movements have pushed the fashion industry towards a more circular future. Chapter 1 of the report analyses the fashion activism and its current forms in the digital age. It examines the impact of activist movements focusing on disrupting fashion consumption. Chapter 2 of the report dissects the Generation Z (Gen Z) activist consumer. Gen Z stands to become one of the most influential consumer “The Fashion Industry is groups and is leading the current industry shift. Chapter 3 of the report explores the response of fashion industry, examining notable examples from across the fashion hierarchy and the Broken” potential issues with their strategies. - Chapter 4 of the report introduces the Circular Economy model, a radical Clare Farrell, change option for brands to improve their Corporate Social Responsibility that is not the Triple Bottom Line. -
The Commodification of Ethical Clothing
Columbia College Chicago Digital Commons @ Columbia College Chicago Cultural Studies Capstone Papers Thesis & Capstone Collection 4-29-2019 Unraveling Ethos: the Commodification of Ethical Clothing Oliva Hanson Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.colum.edu/cultural_studies Part of the American Material Culture Commons, American Popular Culture Commons, Cultural History Commons, Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, and Transgender Studies Commons, Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons, Race, Ethnicity and Post-Colonial Studies Commons, Television Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-No Derivative Works 4.0 License. Unraveling Ethos: the Commodification of Ethical Clothing by Olivia Hanson Jaafar Aksikas 21 April 2019 Abstract: In the last decade there has been a noticeable attempt to subvert traditional modes of clothing production. The recent emergence of “ethical consumption” in the fashion industry is a case in point. This project argues that these new formations and practices around ethical consumption are mere appropriations of anti-corporate politics and sentiments for consumers in the West. Signification of ethical consumption through language and cultural capital give more value to individual articles of clothing and branded entities. This reformation of the clothing industry towards an ethical attitude is a rebranding tactic that avoids the source-issue altogether. Through advertising and normalization of globalized labor, it is not the part of the consumer to take responsibility for the harms the fashion industry perpetuates. It is the system itself by which clothing is produced that need to be changed, not brands added. The fashion industry needs less and better, not more. -
The Influences and Inspirations of Global Icon, Activist, and Radical Fashion Philosopher, Vivienne Westwood
155 Everything is connected: the influences and inspirations of global icon, activist, and radical fashion philosopher, Vivienne Westwood Author Linda Watson Northumbria University, UK [email protected] Keywords Vivienne Westwood, subversive fashion, fashion activism, fashion and culture, fashion and sustainability Abstract Fashion’s foremost thinker, Vivienne Westwood believes the foundation of a meaningful and productive life lies in the development of personal identity via the process of intellectual evolution. This, she believes, can be found through the exploration of three key areas – environment and responsibility, politics and justice, thoughts and culture. The intention of this paper is to distil the key influences in Westwood’s psyche and contextualise them in order to gain a greater understanding of her diverse sources of inspiration. By challenging existing conventions, new thinking can evolve. As a self-confessed activist and advocate of cultural appreciation, Vivienne Westwood believes art links the past, present and future. She discourages consumerism and encourages the individual to identify and follow their deepest interest. This mantra, she states, allows the individual to achieve a sense of personal progress and embark on a journey of self-discovery - the key to inner awareness and outward expression. An advocate of reading books rather than scanning social media, make do and mend rather than mass consumption, and history rather than modernism, her unique – and often radical - philosophy has become a rallying cry for a new generation of fashion followers. Analysing and outlining the core inspirations and influences in Vivienne Westwood’s arsenal, the aim is also to investigate these in a fashion context, dissecting how such disparate influence can be applied and translated in a sartorial form. -
FASHION ACTIPEDIA 36 Changes in Style
FASHION ACTIPEDIA 36 changes in style 1 2 Activism is a broad term, signifying everything from how people use vigorous campaigning to address political issues, to interventions and other forms of direct action that promote a reform agenda. This zine contains a collection of cases of what could broadly be called “fashion activism,” some run by consumers, artists and inde-pendent designers, some by NGOs, and others are industry initiat-ed. They all seek new forms of engagement with the politics of fashion. We hope this incomplete survey may add to this shared endeavor. /Otto von Busch & students in “Critical Fashion and Social Justice” Parsons School of Design, New York, 2018 3 PETA Mobilizes Social Media to Push Out Fur WHEN Post 2016 Johanna Fuoss, PETA representative, ac- WHERE knowledges social media campaigns for Instagram/Social helping to mobilize an unprecedented num- ber of animal rights activists. While the new PRACTITIONERS technologies of social media had made it Johanna Fuoss possible to advocate against fur usage on a larger scale. FURTHER INSIGHT Angela Water’s Artcile at Instyle Magazine After Hugo Boss stopped using fur prod- https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ ucts in 2016, there has been a rise in press social-media-pushing-fur-out- fashion/ statements from many other designers such as Armani, Gucci, Versace announcing that they will stop using fur products in their gar- ments as well. Therefore, social media users have been more aware of fur products and commenting against brands whom introduce fur in their lines. It has lead influencers and brands lose followers and receive negative remarks against the brands. -
Design Revaluing Commodity Fetishism To
REVALUING COMMODITY FETISHISM TO FACILITATE FASHION SUSTAINABILITY ____________________________________________________________ LISA NEL Dissertation submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree MAGISTER TECHNOLOGIAE: DESIGN in the Department of Design and Studio Art Faculty of Humanities at the Central University of Technology, Free State Supervisor: Prof Allan Munro Co-Supervisor: Dr Desiree Smal BLOEMFONTEIN October 2018 © Central University of Technology, Free State DECLARATION ____________________________________________________________ I, LISA NEL, identity number and student number , do hereby declare that this research project submitted to the Central University of Technology, Free State for the Degree MAGISTER TECHNOLOGIAE: DESIGN, is my independent work; and complies with the Code of Academic Integrity, as well as other relevant policies, procedures, rules and regulations of the Central University of Technology, Free State; and has not been submitted before to any institution by myself of any other person in fulfilment (or partial fulfilment) of the requirements for the attainment of any qualification. 25 October 2018 SIGNATURE DATE i © Central University of Technology, Free State ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ____________________________________________________________ Firstly, I would like to thank the Lord Jesus Christ and give Him all of the honour. Secondly, I would like to acknowledge and express my sincere gratitude to my supervisor Prof Allan Munro for his incredible knowledge, guidance, and patience as well as the support that he has provided to me through the study. His extensive knowledge and passion for research have made a wonderful contribution to this work. Without his expertise and supervision, this study would not have been possible. Thirdly, I would also like to thank my co-supervisor Dr Desiree Smal for her advice, guidance and discussions that emerged surrounding the study. -
Mcrobbie, Angela; Strutt, Dan and Bandinelli, Carolina
McRobbie, Angela; Strutt, Dan and Bandinelli, Carolina. 2019. Feminism and the Politics of Cre- ative Labour: Fashion Micro-enterprises in London, Berlin and Milan. Australian Feminist Studies, 34(100), pp. 131-148. ISSN 0816-4649 [Article] https://research.gold.ac.uk/id/eprint/26629/ The version presented here may differ from the published, performed or presented work. Please go to the persistent GRO record above for more information. If you believe that any material held in the repository infringes copyright law, please contact the Repository Team at Goldsmiths, University of London via the following email address: [email protected]. The item will be removed from the repository while any claim is being investigated. For more information, please contact the GRO team: [email protected] Feminism and the Politics of Creative Labour : Fashion Micro-enterprises in London, Berlin and Milan Angela McRobbie, Dan Strutt and Carolina Bandinelli ABSTRACT This article makes a case for fashion, as part of the creative industries and as a major employer of women, as well as a significant space for self-organised work, to attract more sustained attention on the part of feminist scholars with a view to developing a stronger policy lobby for the sector with priority being given to issues which focus on the quality of livelihoods in the sector. Drawing on interviews and observations carried out within the course of a three year study which investigated working lives of fashion designers (predominantly female) in London, Berlin and Milan, the argument presented emerges from an analysis which focused on two key factors: the impact of adverse economic circumstances following the euro-crisis of 2008 and the role of urban cultural policies in the ability of designers to establish a creative practice. -
Holly Mcquillan
HOLLY MCQUILLAN Designer, PhD Researcher and Educator Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Borås, Sweden Master of Design. College of Creative Arts, Massey University, New Zealand. Phone: +46 703758927 Email: [email protected] SUMMARY Holly McQuillan’s research centres in the field of Zero Waste Fashion Design practice-led research. She is credited with being one of the pioneers of Zero Waste Fashion design and is co-author of Zero Waste Fashion with Dr Timo Rissanen and published by Bloomsbury. Currently she is a PhD candi- date at the Swedish School of Textiles at the University of Borås. Her research articulates her zero waste fashion practice and focuses on issues including industry application, sustainability and how these challenge established design practice, and use practice in the context of zero waste fashion practice. In addition to intellectual commentary, she has exhibited widely presenting various examples of zero waste garment design and engaging with industry and educational audiences/conferences internationally to explore broader interpretations of her design practice. She has a strong collaborative practice with the institutions she works in; mentoring and leading projects involving textiles, spatial, industrial, film making and graphic design practice. McQuillan’s activities as a facilitator and creator of sustainable fashion practice has lead to the supervision of honours and Master of Design postgrad- uate research supervision and examination. These activities, including the convening of The Cutting Circle, development of Make/Use, curation of Yield: Making fashion without making waste in Welling- ton and New York and the facilitation of Local Wisdom WGTN serve to broaden the impact of zero waste and sustainable fashion design locally and internationally. -
The Role of Human Resource Management (HRM) for the Implementation of Sustainable Product-Service Systems (PSS)—An Analysis of Fashion Retailers
sustainability Article The Role of Human Resource Management (HRM) for the Implementation of Sustainable Product-Service Systems (PSS)—An Analysis of Fashion Retailers Marcus Adam Department of Textiles & Design, Reutlingen University, Alteburgstr. 150, 72762 Reutlingen, Germany; [email protected]; Tel.: +49-7121-270-1454 Received: 17 June 2018; Accepted: 16 July 2018; Published: 18 July 2018 Abstract: Implementation of product-service systems (PSS) requires structural changes in the way that business in manufacturing industries is traditionally conducted. Literature frequently mentions the importance of human resource management (HRM), since people are involved in the entire process of PSS development and employees are the primary link to customers. However, to this day, no study has provided empirical evidence whether and in what way HRM of firms that implement PSS differs from HRM of firms that solely run a traditional manufacturing-based business model. The aim of this study is to contribute to closing this gap by investigating the particular HR components of manufacturing firms that implement PSS and compare it with the HRM of firms that do not. The context of this study is the fashion industry, which is an ideal setting since it is a mature and highly competitive industry that is well-documented for causing significant environmental impact. PSS present a promising opportunity for fashion firms to differentiate and mitigate the industry’s ecological footprint. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was conducted to analyze data of 102 international fashion firms. Findings reveal a significant higher focus on nearly the entire spectrum of HRM components of firms that implement PSS compared with firms that do not. -
Qualifications: Academic Roles Holly Mcquillan
SUMMARY Holly McQuillan’s work in the field of zero waste design, articu- lates sustainable systems and practice. She focuses on issues such as transition design, the impact of technology and how these can challenge established design, production and use practices. Holly co-authored Zero Waste Fashion Design with Timo Rissanen and together they are currently writing the second edition. She also co-curated Yield: Making fashion without making waste, the first contemporary exhibition focussing on zero waste fashion, and developed the award winning open-source zero waste resource Make/Use. She has exhibited widely presenting various examples of zero waste garment design and engaging with industry and educational audiences/conferences internationally to explore broader interpretations of her design practice. She has a strong collaborative practice with the institutions she works in; men- HOLLY MCQUILLAN toring and leading projects involving textiles, spatial, industrial, film making and graphic design practice. Holly’s activities as a facilitator and creator of sustainable fashion practice has lead Design researcher and educator to the supervision of honours and postgraduate research su- University of Borås, Sweden pervision and examination. Her work always seeks to broaden the impact of holistic zero waste and sustainable fashion design Contact details: through research, publication, workshops and lectures. Cur- P: +46 703758927 rently she is a PhD candidate at University of Borås exploring E: [email protected] zero waste systems thinking through the innovative design and Website: www.hollymcquillan.com production of textile-forms. Linkedin: www.linkedin.com/in/ holly-mcquillan Instagram: https://www.instagram. com/holly__mcquillan/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.