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the Commuter | 15 ND NONE OF IT you’re just as likely to find promote, especially since it the Indian markets in matters. Bangkok is a Starbucks on the corner is a 180-degree shift from . Aone of the world’s as a Thai tea shop. Bangkok’s other reputation most intriguing cities and as a hot spot for sex tours. If the clash of old and new just being here can be a It is hard to remain is jarring to western eyes, life-altering experience. An untouched by a city of On the other hand, you Bangkok residents seem to estimated 8 million people such contrasts and have the more traditional take it all in stride, even live in this vast, rambling contradictions. Bangkok Bangkok. A city where though some of the metropolis, the self-styled seems to be trying on the orange-robed Buddhist challenges they’re facing cultural melting pot of Asia latest styles in search of its monks continue to carry are serious. For one thing, and economic capital of own identity. On one out their ancient duties in the city is sinking at a fairly . hand, you have the picture temples and shoppers still alarming rate of up to 5 of modern prosperity. haggle at morning markets, cm a year. Maybe it’s the It is home to the Skyscrapers crowd the three-wheeled tuk-tuk rain – an average of 200 magnificent temples of Wat downtown business core taxies weave through traffic mm a month falls during Pho and , the and a new skytrain and narrow boats ply the the June-October rainy colourful markets of Pak provides mass transit for old klongs or canals. season. Maybe it’s the Khlong Talat, Chinatown local commuters and massive amount of and Chatuchak, the foreign visitors. Shopping It is this Bangkok that can residential and commercial fabulous architecture and malls are American in be most fun to explore, development since the late art of the character and brand names. especially the markets – the 1980s. And maybe it’s just and Wat Phra Kaeo. Here, Cell phones and dance Pak Khlong Talat flower the growing tide of steel skyscrapers stand clubs are the order of the and vegetable market, the western tourists drawn to alongside ancient temples, day for the young, hip and traditional Damnoen Bangkok’s increasingly huge western-style malls upwardly mobile. It is an Saduak upscale list of hotels, compete with traditional image the Thai west of the city, the shop- health spas and restaurants. open-air markets, and government is eager to filled allies of Chinatown,

16 | Fall 2004 the Commuter | 17 The Ramada Hotel is the perfect place for the business traveller.

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NOTHER EXTRAORDINARY Thai people have a remarkable knack challenge – begging elephants. for retaining their own traditions while ADespite being officially banned absorbing the practices of other from the city in 2000, mahouts cultures. This is one of the reasons for (handlers) and their domesticated Thailand’s multicultural character; it Blackmur’s elephants continue to find their way also explains a little known fact. into Bangkok. They amble down Thailand has never been colonized by a Athabasca Fishing Lodges narrow streets selling bananas to foreign power; not the British, French, tourists, who then feed the elephants. German or American. It has been It is not a quaint traditional custom, invaded enough times – by the but the result of a major social Burmese, the Khmers, the Japanese in upheaval. Word War II – but the invaders never managed to stay. In their own quiet In the 1980s, over-logging virtually way, the Thai have fiercely guarded destroyed Thailand’s forests. Worse, it their independence. “Where Fishing Dreams Come True” led to devastating mudslides in rural Fly-in Trophy Fishing on Canada’s Famous villages. In response to public pressure, That isn’t to say the country’s history Lake Athabasca in Northern Saskatchewan Thailand banned all logging in 1989. has been peaceful. The last half of the Villagers and environmentalists alike 20th century was marked by internal cheered the decision, but it threw fighting. In the years after World War Home of Saskatchewan’s Record thousands of domesticated elephants II, Thailand was rocked by one military Northern Pike and Record Lake Trout and their mahouts out of work. With coup after another. Democracy was little employment and not enough food finally established in 1979, and a [email protected] to feed their 11,000 pound charges, decade of prosperity and political many mahouts have resorted to illegal stability seemed to put the country on www.athabascalake.com logging in border areas or begging in a firm footing. Then in 1991, the the cities. Both are dangerous. military unexpectedly swept back to 1-800-667-5490 Elephants are regularly injured in traffic power and it took a bloody civilian 1-877-922-0957 accidents in cities and by landmines in revolt to reinstate the democratic remote forests. government in 1992.

18 | Fall 2004 the Commuter | 19 The

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CANDAL AND CHARGES on the tourist agenda, along OF government with Bangkok’s many exotic Scorruption plagued Buddhist temples or wats. Thailand through the 1990’s. Most visitors see The official currency, the (Temple of the Reclining baht, crashed in the 1997 Buddha), Wat Phra Kaeo Asia economic crisis. Even (Temple of the Eternal today, with a democratic Buddha), home of the most government and growing revered Buddha image in economy, Thailand faces Thailand, and Wat Arun tremendous economic, social (Temple of Dawn), one of and environmental pressures the city’s most famous – from poverty to Muslim riverbank landmarks. separatists in the southern peninsula and continuing But there are many more. environmental degradation of Wat Bowon Niwet is the its forests and beaches. official temple of King For Reservations 664-2313 • 2033 Ave. B North Bhumibol and the Crown Through all the years of Prince; Wat Trai Mit houses a turbulence, the one constant huge 5.5 tonne solid gold in the Thai political landscape Buddha; is home has been the monarchy. The to one of the country’s most Kingdom of Thailand is a beautiful Sukhothai-era constitutional monarchy ruled Budda images; is by King Bhumibol Adulyadej known for its Golden Mount (Rama IX), the latest in the – and so on. It’s important to Chakri Dynasty established in remember that in Thailand, 1782. King Bhumibol came temples are sacred places; to the throne in 1946 when visitors who appear in he was just 19 years old. unsuitable attire are turned Today, he is the longest away. reigning constitutional monarch in the world. Bangkok is not all there is to Thailand, in a sense it may The Thai harbour great not even be the real Thailand. feeling for the Royal Family, It is, however, the first and and avidly follow the activities last stop for most visitors. It of King Bhumibol, Queen is a gateway to the ancient Sirikit, Crown Prince Maha ruins of Ayuthaya, the Vajiralongkorn, Princess mountain city of Chiang Mai, Maha Chakri Sirindhorn and the island beaches of Ko Princess Chulabhorn. Samui, Phuket and more. It is December is a great month also an international city for royal watchers, as it striving to find its place in the features the annual Trooping modern world. It is this of the Colour and King’s journey that gives Bangkok Birthday Celebrations. its unrivalled energy and character. The Grand Palace is one of the most popular royal sites

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