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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 794

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Mark Beales the last edition and wrote to us with help- Firstly, thanks to Sarah Reid for offering me ful hints, useful advice and interesting the chance to return to this guide. In Bang anecdotes: Saen, Michiel and Mynd had some great tips

A Alma Asuai, Andrea Zanchi, Anne Légaré and on Ko Kut, Seren was a star. On Ko Chang, B Bill Weir C Charlotte Toolan, Clare Blen- thanks to Ian, Lisa and Olivier, who all helped

kinsop D Daniëlle Wolbers, David Cross, immensely while Eric and Issac had some great Déan Smits, Des Moriarty E Elisa Fernan- ideas. The staff at TAT were as helpful as ever, dez, Eric Bitencourt F Francesco Agnelli, especially K.Suladda and K.Kesorn. Lastly,

Francesco Franceschi G Geoffrey Taylor, thanks to Ann and Daniel.

Grant Jarvis H Hans van Ek I Isabella Capel-Timms J Jarosław Śmietana, Jeroen Tim Bewer Reitsma, Jessica Meier, Jildau van den Berg, A hearty kòrb kun kráp to the many people who Jocelyn Bulgin, John Zachariassen, Jourdan helped me out during this update. In particular Shapiro, Julian Rudd, Juliane Dicke, July Marín Prapaporn Sompakdee provided great help. K Karen Fogh, Karlie Drutz, Keith Freeman, And, of course, a special thanks to Suttawan

Kerry O’Connor L Leah Kroes, Louis Aarts, for many things. Lucia Urgell M Maria Clavero , Marielle Boivin, Matthew Huxtable, Michael Roos, Joe Bindloss

Michelle Tan, Mike Kear N Nicholas Jar- Thanks as always to Linda and Tyler, for help-

vis P Peter Lilley R Rob Falloon, Roscoe ing me get the authoritative answer on which Ward S Samantha Jeffery, Sarah North, elephant centres, restaurants, monasteries Sharon Dayan, Shira Rotem , Simon Partridge, and waterfalls are truly family-friendly, and Stéphanie Visser, Stig Buch U Ursula Rose for holding the fort at home while I finished up V Veronika Stalz W Wendy Chrisman, research. In , thanks to the Tour-

Willemijn Schneyder Z Zdenek Klusacek ist Authority of , the staff of Awana House, the many patient red car drivers who put up with stop/start trips around the hills, and the locals and travellers who helped me find new and surprising things to see and do. 795 BEHIND THE SCENES - - Re -

‘Updat Naomi Naomi Gibbon as always. particularly the

Thai language to also Cheers (2007) Daniel Corbett, Corbett, Daniel TA Chang Stanley Roberts, Ann for special thanks Extra of the company Loved ©. lifeispixels/Getty Tim and Emma,

John Cover Researcher Cover Parker Thanks to Karyn Jones, Andi Bruce Evans, Tasmin Simpson, Ellie Noble, Wellicome Lauren Waby, Christopher Pitts, Vicky Smith, Smith, Vicky Pitts, Christopher Stefanos Gabrielle Assisting Cartographers Valentina David Kemp, Kremenchutskaya Hydrology and Earth System System and Earth Hydrology & McMahon -

in, pitching for and Papi Raquel Tewari. expert , 11, 1633–44. 11, ,

Sarah Sarah or not, knowingly whether co-authors, hardworking my to Thanks

Andrew Illustrations pp62-3 and pp64-5 by and pp64-5 by pp62-3 Illustrations light monks Buddhist photograph: Cover Andrew, Perrin,

Cam Ashley Cam Elin Berglund, Berglund, Elin Mark Beales island experts fellow especially Harper. and Damian to Jack assistant research favourite my and to Noble. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS MC, Peel from adapted map data Climate BL Finlayson Climate the Köppen-Geiger Map of World ed Classification’, Sciences Michael Weldon. lanterns, floating Charoon Juntra, Brigitte Gomm, Matt Ru Matt Gomm, Brigitte Juntra, Charoon Amanda, Fortuin, Eveline Meier, Jessica bin, Praesomboon, Suwatchai and Mark Hat from the train on family the charming and I fine people are you Thani, Surat to Yai fortune. good every wish you John. Thailand enthusiast, and brother my Daisy, to Thanks Noble Isabella who helped out on the everyone to Thanks road, the stellar for Cobaj Jamie Monk and Lee Phayam, on Ko Paul to Cheers intel. elephant and crew hab Project tips.

Monique As

Ridgway Diana Von Holdt Von Diana crew. ‘Ian’ pher Designer Book Assisting Editors Nigel Bamber, Judith Bain, Anne Innes, Gabrielle Chin, Mulvaney, Destination Editor Reid Editors Product Alison Cartogra Senior Regional to also Thanks

by Joe

Pongtawat help and suggestions; written ‘Bi’, me on a road who took produced

Bewer,

guidebook guidebook on! live words your of some

and was

Tim

Thailand or unwittingly. knowingly whether information provided Tim Bewer following:

Beales, who passed everyone to much gratitude

guidebook researched

the

up with ideas, came Bambridge, Neal to gratitude notably, most about his home region. Harper Damian and the way all who eased to thanks Many the trip to Phu Thok. At Lonely Planet, thanks thanks Planet, Lonely At Thok. Phu the trip to taking for Reid Sarah Editor, Destination to Ham for Anthony and to on me, a chance Thailand, In authoring tips. valuable providing author associates from my Buddhist monk days, monk days, Buddhist my from associates Thanom Kongphet, Thani and Udon Nong Khai, trip through home town). (his Bueng Kan for and Khun Banphot Khun Sutchaniphat Bruce Evans Bruce good two have to fortunate especially I was Gamontip friends help me on this trip: old my and one of (Dukata) Prayoontong David Eimer David and all the LP Reid Sarah to Thanks ever, on tips, Chalermkittichai and Joe Cummings; part- Joe Cummings; and Chalermkittichai MacLeod Kathy assistants time research kind the of rest and the and Maher Sattar; and northern in ground on the folks Thailand. guide, Joe Cummings and China Williams – Williams China and Cummings Joe guide, or not, it believe this edition’s Reid; Sarah Editor, Destination Knowledgers Local Austin Bush this of authors the previous to My thanks Eimer, Bruce Evans, Damian Damian Evans, Bruce Eimer, Noble. Isabellea and Harper This by Planet’s Planet’s was Mark David Bush, Austin Bindloss, THIS BOOK Lonely of edition 16th This ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 796

Index

A arts 743-51, see also Ban Ta Klang 420 Doi Inthanon National accommodation 24, 763-5, architecture, dance, Ban Tawai 361 Park 362 see also individual literature, music, Ban Tha Sawang 420 Khao Sam Roi Yot painting, sculpture locations Ban Thoet Thai 217 National Park 506 assault 769 activities 30-2, 40-1, see Bang Saen 445 412 ATMs 767-8 also individual activities Bang Saphan Yai 511-13 Phitsanulok 248 avian influenza 783 air travel Bangkok 11, 54, 58-150, Phu Khiaw Wildlife Ayuthaya 13, 158-67, , Sanctuary 440 to/from Thailand 774 160 59, 66-7, 72-3, 78, 80, , within Thailand 26, 776 13 28 82-3, 86, 88-9, 92-3, Bo Sang 360 Akha people 724-5, 13, 721 accommodation 162-4 96, 98, 102, 139, 151, boat travel 776 Amphawa 152, 153 drinking & nightlife 165 4, 10-11, 35, 729, 740, boat trips Andaman Coast 56, 587-702, emergency services 165 742, 745, 751 Bangkok 100 588-9 festivals & events 162 accommodation 58, 103-15 Chiang Rai 359 accommodation 587 food 164-5 activities 95-9 Mae Hong Son 292 climate 587 medical services 165 children, travel with 101 books 704, 708, 731, 750-1 food 587 sights 158-62 climate 58 border crossings 775-6 highlights 588-9 tourist information 166 courses 99 418, 468, 477 Ang Thong Marine National tours 162 drinking & nightlife China 775 Park 541, 570-1 travel to/from 166 126-30 232, 245, 382, 432 animal welfare 184, 260, travel within 167 emergency services 143 586, 691, 775 327, 473, 492, 638, Ayuthaya kingdom 710-11 entertainment 130-5 222, 274, 511 759-60 Ayuthaya Province 158-67 festivals & events 101-3 safety 769 animals 27, 492, 753-4, see food 58, 115-26 Bridge on the River Kwai 15, also individual species highlights 59 178, 179, 15 antiques 135, 770 B history 59-60 328, 428, 731-2 Ao Bang Thao 642-4, Baan Dum 208 642 itineraries 60 budgeting 23, 25 Ao Khanom 574-6 Baan Khrua 86-7 medical services 144 Bueng Kaen Nakhon 432-3 bà·mèe 738, 738 Ao Nang 651-4, 50 scams 143 Bueng Kan 391-2 Ban Ahong 393 Ao Phang-Nga 609-13, shopping 135-42 Bueng Kan Province 391-3 609, 45 Ban Bang Bao 469 sights 60-95 Buriram Province 414-17 Ao Phang-Nga National Ban Bo Luang 246 tourist information 142-5 bus travel Park 610-11 389-90 tours 99-100 local transport 779 aquariums Ban Chok 421 travel to/from 145-6 to/from Thailand 776 Underwater Ban Kamthieng 86-7 travel within 146-50 within Thailand 776-7 World 393 Ban Khok Sa-Nga Cobra walking tours 100, 106, Nong Khai Aquarium 377 Village 440 bushwalking, see trekking 119, 106, 119 Phuket Aquarium 625 Ban Khwao Sinarin 421 business hours 23, 768 bargaining 25, 770 Roi Et Aquarium 442 Ban Krut 511-13 bathrooms 772 Siam Ocean World 101 Ban Mae Kampong 362 beaches 46-50 C architecture 740-2 Ban Na Kha 390 Cambodia border beer 737 area codes 23, 771 Ban Na Ton Chan 257 crossings 418, 468, 477 Bhubing Palace 323-4 art galleries, see museums Ban Pa-Ao 429 car travel bicycle travel, see cycling & galleries Ban Phe 456-7 driving licences 777 Big Buddha 632 Ban Prasat 407-8 to/from Thailand 776 birds 753 Ban Ruam Mit 215-16 within Thailand 777-8 birdwatching Map Pages 000 Ban Salak Phet 470 caves Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife Photo Pages 000 Ko Lanta 671 Ban Si Raya 671 Sanctuary 356 797 Ko Muk 686 travel to/from 351-2 Pai 282 Ko Samui 522-3 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 669 travel within 353-4 Phuket Town 620-1 Ko Tao 555-8 Pangmapha 289 walking tour 332, 332 Sangkhlaburi 189 Ko Yao 611 Railay 655 Chiang Mai National courses, see cooking Phuket Island 613 Suan Sawan 376 Museum 324 courses, dance courses, Railay 656 Tham Erawan 388 55, language courses, Ranong 590

304-63, 305 massage courses, INDEX Tham Kaew 506 meditation courses, responsible travel 759 accommodation 304 Tham Khao Bandai-It yoga courses Marine climate 304 487 credit cards 767-8 National Park 606-7

-food 304  C Tham 486 culture 704-6, 721-32, 758 Marine highlights 305 National Park 598-9  E Tham Lot 289-90, 17 currency 769 Doi Ang Khang 357-8 Tham Nam Lang 289 Chiang Rai 205-15, 207 customs regulations 765 Tham Phothisat 376 accommodation 209-11 Doi Inthanon National cutaneous larva Park 361-3 Tham Phraya activities 208-9 migrans 782-3 Nakhon 506 drinking & nightlife 213 Doi Khun Tan National cycling 777 Park 197 Tham Sai 506 food 211-13 Bangkok 100 Doi Pha Hompok National Tham Ta Khu Bi 275 shopping 213 Chiang Mai 325, 326 Park 359 Tham Chiang sights 205-8 Hat Kata 630 Doi Phu Kha National Dao 356 tourist information 213 Hua Hin 498 Park 246 cell phones 22, 772 travel to/from 213-15 Ko Yao 611 dolphins 574-5 Central 432-43 travel within 215 Krabi 651 dôm yam 738, 738 Central Thailand 54, 155-90, 12, drinking & nightlife 29, 156-7 205-32, 13 see also individual accommodation 155 Chiang Saen 223-6, 224 D locations dance 748-9 climate 155 Chiang Saen National drinks 736-7, see also rum, food 155 Museum 224 dance courses 189 wine highlights 156-7 children, travel with 51-3, dangers, see safety driving, see car travel Cha-am 491-3 765 407 driving licences 777 Chaliang 263-4 Bangkok 101 Dan Sai 374, 31 drug possession 769-70 Chalong Bay Rum 631 Chiang Mai 329 Death Railway Bridge 15, dugongs 688, 754 Chanthaburi 462-5, 463 health 786 173, 178, 179, 15 Park 87, 90-1 Chantharakasem National Phuket 620 debit cards 767 Dvaravati culture 708 Museum 159 China border crossings 775 Deep South 581-6 Chao Sam Phraya National Chinese people 722 deep-vein thrombosis 782 Museum 159 Chong Mek 431 deforestation 754-5 E Eastern Seaboard 55, 444- Chatuchak Weekend Chonnabot 438-9 Market 138-41, 83, 446-7 139 Choonhavan, Chatichai 745, 745 accommodation 444 Chiang Dao 355-7 715 dengue fever 783 climate 444 Chiang Khan 371-3, Chumphon 513-16, 514 diarrhoea 784-5 , food 444 372 16 cinema 749-50 dinosaurs 439 highlights 446-7 Chiang Khong 228-33, 229 climate 22, 30-2, 49, 764, disabilities, travellers economy 704-6 Chiang Mai 11, 306-54, see also individual with 772 308-9, 312-13, 318, 2, locations diving & snorkelling 40, 49 electricity 765 7, 11, 28, 31, 35 climate change 774 Ao Nang 651 elephants 26, 327, 752, 754, 759-60 accommodation 333-9 coffee 345, 736 Hat Karon 633 Ban Kwan Chang 469 activities 324-8 commissions 770 Hat Kata 629-30 Chiang Dao 355 children, travel with 329 consulates 765-6 Hat Patong 635 Chiang Mai 326-7 drinking & nightlife cooking courses 41, 44 Khao Lak 602-4 344-6 Elephant Study Bangkok 99, 45 Ko Chang (Andaman emergency services 350 Centre 420 Chiang Mai 328-9 Coast) 593-4 entertainment 346 178 Hat Kata 630 Ko Chang (Eastern festivals & events 331, 333 Seaboard) 472 Khao Yai National Hat Patong 635 Park 411 food 339-44 Ko Jum 669 Hua Hin 498 King’s Cup Elephant history 306-7 Ko Lanta 671-2 Kanchanaburi 179 Polo Tournament 498 medical services 350 Ko Lipe 698-9 Ko Chang (Eastern Kuiburi National Park 507 shopping 346-50 Ko Ngai 684 Seaboard) 472 Phu Khiaw Wildlife sights 307-24 Ko Lanta 672 Ko Pha-Ngan 541-2 Sanctuary 440 tourist information 351 Ko Phi-Phi Don 663 Ko Phayam 595 responsible travel tours 331 Ko Samui 523 Ko Phi-Phi Don 660-2 759-60 798 elephants continued gay travellers 130, 766-7 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang health 781 Royal Thai Elephant gem scams 135 Historical Park 262, travel 767 Museum 90 geography 752-3 263 internet access 767 Surin Elephant Round-up geology 752-3 Sukhothai Historical internet resources 23, 706 417 Golden Mount 70 Park 16, 254, 255, Islam 723, 732 Thai Elephant 256, 16, 730 Golden Triangle 226, 228, islands 46-50, see

INDEX INDEX Conservation Center Wat Pa Sak 223 227 also individual islands 204 history 707-20 golf under Ko embassies 765-6 Ayuthaya 710-11 Hua Hin 497-8 itineraries 33-9, 33, 34, emergencies 23, 790

E- Bangkok era 711-13  Ko Samui 521 36, 37, 38-9 energy consumption 755-6 K democracy 713-14  61, 62-3 entertainment, see individual Dvaravati culture 708 locations Green Route 252 J Khmer kingdom 708 environmental hazards guerrilla war 584-5, 719 Japanese B encephalitis Lanna kingdom 709-10 785-6 783 military dictatorships environmental issues 754-6 jellyfish stings 786 H 715 183 jet lag 782 Hang Dong 361 separatist insurgency 84, 85 719-20 National 83-4 E-Thong 187 Museum 196 culture 708-9 Jinghong 225 etiquette 25, 61 Hat Chao Mai National hitching 778 cultural 758, 759 Park 683 HIV 783 food 737 Hat Kamala 639-40, 642 Hmong people 725, 724 K responsible travel 759 Hat Karon 633-4, 629 holidays 769 Kaeng Krachan National Park 490-1 events 29, 30-2 Hat Kata 628-33, 629 homestays 761 Kaeng Tana National Park exchange rates 23 Hat Khao Tao 503 hot springs 429-30 Hat Mai Rut 469 Doi Pha Hompok Kamphaeng Phet 265-8, Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu National Park 359 F 266 Ko Phi-Phi National Pha Bong Hot Springs fake goods 771 Kamphaeng Phet National Park 654 297 Fang 358 Museum 267 Hat Patong 635-9, 636, 17 Pha Soet Hot Spring farming 259 Kanchanaburi 15, 173-82, Hat Sai Noi 503 216 festivals 29, 30-2 174-5, 176, 15 Hat Surin 640-2, Phra Ruang Hot Springs filariasis 783 642 accommodation 179-80 Hat Tham Phang 450 267 film 706, 749-50 activities 177-8 Hat Yai 579-81 Rakswarin Hot Springs first-time travellers 24-5 590 drinking & nightlife 181 health 53, 781-6 fish 753 San Kamphaeng Hot emergency services 181 heat stroke 785 flooding 756 Springs 361 food 180-2 Hellfire Pass Memorial flowers 754 Hua Hin 55, 493-503, , medical services 181 184-5 494 flu 784 504 sights 173-7 hepatitis 783 food 27, 42-5, 733-9, accommodation tourist information 181 hiking, see trekking 738-9, see also individual 499-500 travel to/from 181-2 locations hill tribes 29, 206, 723-7, activities 497-8 760-1 travel within 182 children, for 53 drinking 501-2 Hin Chang See Viewpoint Karen people 726 Isan cuisine 405 436 entertainment 501-2 kayaking language 788-90 historical parks food 500-1 Kanchanaburi 178 northern Thai cuisine Ayuthaya 158 medical services 502 Ko Chang (Eastern 212 Kamphaeng Phet sights 494-7 Seaboard) 471 price ranges 766 Historical Park 265 tourist information 502 Ko Samui 521 safety 785 Muang Sing Historical travel within 503 Ko Yao 611 southern Thai cuisine Park 185-6 trvel to/from 502 Krabi 648, 652 532 Phanom Rung Historical Huai Seua Thao 295 Pai 281 fraud 770 Park 20, 414-15, Huay Pu Keng 295 Phuket Island 615 fruits 735-6 416, 21 Railay 656 Kayan people 295 408 I G Khao Chin Lae 171 Phra Nakhon Khiri immigration 772-3, 774 gaang kĕe·o wăhn 738, 739 infectious diseases 782-4 Khao Laem National Historical Park 486, 14 Park 187 Phra Ram Ratchaniwet influenza 784 Khao Lak 602-6, 603 487 insect bites 785 Map Pages 000 Khao Luang National Phu Phrabat Historical insurance Photo Pages 000 Park 577 Park 390-1 car 778 799 Khao Phansaa 32 drinking 476-8 travel to/from 537-8 literature 704, 708, 731, Khao Phra Tamnak 453 food 476-8 travel within 538 750-1 Khao Phra Thaew Royal medical services 478 Ko Si Boya 669-70 lizards 753 Wildlife & Forest sights 468-70 Ko Si Chang 450-1 local transport 779 Reserve 646 tourist information 478 Ko Sireh 625 Loei 365-70, 370 Khao Phra Wihan National travel to/from 478 Ko Sukorn 689 Loei Province 365-76,

Park 422 INDEX travel within 478 Ko Tao 555-70, 556, 562, 4 368 Khao San Road 71, 104 Ko Jum 669-70 accommodation 560-5 Loi Krathong 32, 29 Khao Sam Roi Yot National long-necked Kayan women Park 505-7 Ko Khao Phing Kan 610 activities 555-60 -K  295 19, Ko Kradan 687-8 drinking & nightlife lôok tûng 747  M 567-8 600-2, 18 Ko Kret 150-1 Lopburi 167-72, 168 Khao Yai National Park 19, Ko Kut 20, 482-3, 481, 20 entertainment 568 Lower Gulf 56, 517-86, 410-13, 19 Ko Lan 453 food 565-7 518-19 Khmer kingdom 708 Ko Lanta 21, 670-80, 671, medical services 569 accommodation 517 Khmer ruins 673, 21 shopping 568 climate 517 Phanom Rung 416 688-9 tourist information 569 food 517 Prasat Puay Noi 439 Ko Lipe 19, 697-701, travel to/from 569-70 highlights 518-19 Si Saket 422 698, 18 travel within 570 Lower Isan 401-32 Surin 421 Ko Loi 449 Ko Tarutao 695-7 Ko Tarutao Marine National 83 Khon Kaen 432-8, 434 Ko Ma 541 Park 693-702, Khon Kaen Province Ko Mak 480-2, 481 694 432-40 Ko Muk 685-7 Ko Wai 479-80 M Khong Jiam 430 Ko Ngai 684-5 Ko Yao 611-13, 46 Mae Aw (Ban Rak Thai) Khun Yuam 299-300 Ko Panyi 610 Ko Yo 578 297-8 Khuraburi 597-8 Ko Pha-Ngan 17, 538-55, kôw mòk 738, 739 Mae Hong Son 290-7, King Bhumibol 715 539, 541, 17 kôw soy 342, 738, 42, 739 292, 2-3 King accommodation 542-50 Krabi Province 647-80 Mae Hong Son Loop 285 (Rama V) 712 activities 541-2 Krabi Town 647-50, 648 Mae Hong Son Province 17, King Mengrai 709 drinking & nightlife 552 Kraprayoon, Suchinda 716 278-303, 17 King Mongkut food 550-2 Kwan Phayao 233 Mae 334 (Rama IV) 712 medical services 553 Mae Rim 354 King Narai 711 sights 540-1 Mae Sai 219-23, 220 King Prajadhipok (Rama tourist information 553-4 L Mae Salong 216-19 lacquerware 771 VII) 713 tours 542 Mae Sam Laep 303 Laem Phanwa 625 King Ramkhamhaeng travel to/from 554 Mae Sariang 300-3, 301 709, 710 travel within 554-5 Mae Sa–Samoeng Loop King 711 596-7 Ko Phayam 594-6 354-5 King Trailok 710-11 lâhp 738, 739 Ko Phi-Phi Don 660-8, Mae Sot 269-74, 271 King Yot Fa () 712 Lahu people 726 661, 664 magazines 768 kiteboarding 41 Lampang 198-203, 200 Ko Phi-Phi Leh 668-9 malaria 784 Hat Noppharat Thara- Lampang Province 197-205 599-600 Malaysia border crossings Mu Ko Phi-Phi 195-7 Ko Phuket, see Phuket 586, 691, 775 National Park 654 Lamphun Province 195-7 Island marine degradation 755 Hua Hin 497 language 22, 25, 197, 787-93 Ko Ra 599-600 markets 28, 140, 142 Ko Samui 524 language courses Ko Rawi 702 Amphawa Floating Krabi 652 Chiang Mai 329 Market (Bangkok) 140 Ko Samet 457-62, 458 Phuket Island 616 Ko Samui 524 Amulet Market Ko Samui 56, 520-38, 522 Sangkhlaburi 189 (Bangkok) 68 accommodation 524-31 644 Lanna kingdom 709-10 (Bangkok) 142 activities 521-3 Kittikachorn, Thanom 715 Laos border crossings 232, Ayuthaya Floating Klorng 76 climate 517 245, 382, 432 Market 162 Ko Adang 701 courses 523-4 legal matters 767 Bang Nam Pheung Ko Bulon Leh 692-3 drinking & nightlife 535-6 leptospirosis 784 Market 142 Ko Chang (Andaman entertainment 536 lesbian travellers 130, 766-7 (Bangkok) Coast) 593-4 food 531-5 Letongkhu 275 138-41, 139 Ko Chang (Eastern medical services 537 LGBT travellers 766-7 Seaboard) 55, 468- Chiang Mai 341 shopping 536 lifestyle 729-30 79, 470 sights 520-1 Damnoen Saduak Lingam Shrine 85 accommodation 472-6 tourist information 537 activities 471 Lisu people 726, 727 (Bangkok) 140 800 markets continued Mekong River 16, 230, 383 Hariphunchai National music 746-8, 746 Dan Singkhon Border meliodosis 783 Museum 196 Myanmar border crossings Market 511 Mien people 727, 723 Hor Kaew Mukdahan 222, 274, 511 398-9 Don Wai Market migrants 387, 722 Myanmar migrants 337 (Bangkok) 140 International Tsunami military dictatorship 715 floating markets Museum 602 minivan travel 776-7 N

INDEX INDEX (Bangkok) 140 Kamphaeng Phet mobile phones 22, 772 Gem Market National Museum 267 naga fireballs 380 (Chanthaburi) 462 money 22, 23, 25, 767-8 Kathmandu Photo Nakhon Pathom 152-4, 743 Khlong Toey Market moneychangers 768 Gallery 87 Nakhon Phanom 393-6, 394 -M  (Bangkok) 142 monkeys 170, 487, 646, 753 Khon Kaen National Nakhon Phanom Province N Nonthaburi Market monks 328, 731-2, 25, Museum 433 393-8  (Bangkok) 142 35, 730 Lanna Folklife Museum moo·ay tai, see Thai boxing 316-17 (Khorat) 401-7, 402 (Bangkok) 142 mŏr lam 747, 746 Mae Fah Luang Art & Night Market motion sickness 782 Culture Park 205-6 576-8 (Bangkok) 143 motorcycle taxis 779 Million Toy Museum 159 Nakhon Si Thammarat Sampeng Lane motorcycle travel 285 Museum of Province 574-8 (Bangkok) 142 Contemporary Art 87 scams 538 440 Talat Mai (Bangkok) 77 Museum of Siam 68 to/from Thailand 776 Nam Tok 183-4 Talat Muang Mai (Chiang Nan National Museum within Thailand 777-8 Nan 239-45, 240 Mai) 319 241-2 Nan National Museum 241-2 Talat Rot Fai (Bangkok) 141 Mu Ko Lanta National National Gallery 69 Park 678 239-46 Talat Ton Lam Yai National Museum Nang Rong 414 (Chiang Mai) 319 Muang Sing Historical Park (Bangkok) 68-9 185-6 Narathiwat 583-5 Talat Warorot (Chiang National Museum Mai) 317-19 muay thai, see Thai boxing (Nakhon Si Natai 608-9 Taling Chan Floating Mukdahan 398-401, 399 Thammarat) 576 national parks & reserves, Market (Bangkok) 140 Mukdahan Province National Museum see also historical parks Tha Kha Floating Market 398-401 (Songkhla) 578 (Bangkok) 140 museums & galleries Phimai National Museum accommodation 764-5 Thanon Khao San Market 100 Tonson Gallery 87 408 Ang Thong Marine (Bangkok) 141 Ancient City 91 Phu Wiang Museum 439 National Park 541, 570-1 Thanon Sukhumvit Anek Kusala Sala (Viharn Phuket Thaihua Museum Market (Bangkok) 142 Sien) 452-3 619 Ao Phang-Nga National Park 610-11 Walking Street Market Ayutthaya Tourist Center Ramkhamhaeng National (Khon Kaen) 437 159 Museum 255 Doi Inthanon National Park 361-3 massage 27 Ban Chiang National Roi Et National Museum Museum 389-90 441 Doi Khun Tan National Bangkok 97-8 Park 197 Chiang Mai 330-1 Ban Kamthieng 86-7 Royal Barges National Museum 76 Doi Pha Hompok Hua Hin 498 Bangkok Art & Culture National Park 359 Ko Chang (Eastern Centre 87 Royal Thai Elephant Museum 90 Doi Phu Kha National Seaboard) 471 Bangkokian Museum 79 Park 246 Ko Samui 523 Chantharakasem Satun National Museum 689-90 Doi Suthep-Pui National Pai 279, 281 National Museum 159 Park 322 Sawanworanayok Ubon 423 Chao Sam Phraya Erawan National Park National Museum 159 National Museum 264 massage courses 183 Chiang Mai City Arts & Silom Galleria 87 Bangkok 99 Hat Chao Mai National Cultural Centre 317 91 Chiang Mai 331 Park 683 Chiang Mai Historical Pai 281 Hat Noppharat Thara-Mu Centre 317 Museum 94 Ko Phi-Phi National measles 784 Chiang Mai National Surin National Museum Park 654 measures 768 Museum 324 417 Kaeng Krachan National medical services 782 Chiang Mai University Thai Boat Museum 159 Park 490-1 meditation courses 41 Art Museum 321 Thailand– Kaeng Tana National Bangkok 95 Chiang Saen National Centre 173 Park 429-30 Chiang Mai 328 Museum 224 Thalang National Khao Khitchakut Ko Samui 520 Children’s Discovery Museum 646-7 National Park 464 Museum 101 Ubon Ratchathani Khao Laem National Corrections Museum 91 National Museum 423 Park 187 Map Pages 000 Dusit Palace Park 87, 90-1 Ubonnithat Culture Khao Lak/Lam Ru Display 423 Photo Pages 000 87 National Park 602 WWII Museum 175-6 801 Khao Luang National climate 364 pàt tai 738, 739 drinking & nightlife Park 577 food 364 Pattani 582-3 622-3 Khao Phra Thaew Royal highlights 366-7 Pattaya 451-6, 452 food 621-2 Wildlife & Forest history 365 Pha Taem National Park shopping 623 Reserve 646 54, 191- 430-1 sights 619-20 Khao Phra Wihan 303, 192-3 Phang-Nga 609-10 tourist information 624 National Park 422 accommodation 191 Phang-Nga Province travel to/from 623, INDEX Khao Sam Roi Yot 597-613 624-5 National Park 505-7 climate 191 Phanom Rung Historical travel within 624-5 Khao Sok National Park food 191, 212

Park 20, 414-15, Phutthamonthon 154  N-R 19, 600-2, highlights 192-3 18 , history 194-5 416 21 planning, see also

 Khao Yai National Park Phanomyong, Pridi 714 individual regions 19, 410-13, 19 language 195, 197 Phayao 233-5 budgeting 23 Ko Tarutao Marine travel to/from 194 Phayao Province 233-5 calendar of events 30-2 National Park 693- travel within 194 702, 694 Phetchaburi (Phetburi) 14, children, travel with 51-3 Laem Son National Park 486-90, 488, 14 first-time visitors 24-5 596-7 O Phibun Mangsahan 429 itineraries 33-9, 33, 34, Lamnamkok National opening hours 23, 768 Phimai 408-10, 409 36, 37, 38-9 Park 216 orchids 754 Phitsanulok 246-52, 247 repeat visitors 26 Nam Nao National Park Phitsanulok Province Thailand basics 22-3 440 P 246-53 Thailand’s regions 54 Nam Tok Phlio National packing 24 photography 768 travel seasons 22, 30-2 Park 464 Pai 14, 278-88, 280, 14 Phra Mahathat websites 23, 706 Pha Daeng National Naphamethanidon 363 accommodation 282-6 plants 753-4 Park 356 Phra Mahathat activities 279-81 Poeng Kloeng 275 Pha Taem National Park Naphapholphumisiri police 23 430-1 courses 281-2 363 politics 704-6, 720 Phae Meuang Phi 236 drinking 287 Phra Pathom Chedi 152-4, Phu Hin Rong Kla entertainment 287 743 population 705 postal services 769 National Park 252-4 food 286-7 Phrae 235-9, 236 Phu Kradueng National shopping 287 Phrapradaeng Peninsula Prachuap Khiri Khan 507- Park 375-6 sights 279 154 11, 508 Phu Pha Thoep National travel to/from 287-8 Phu Chong Nayoi National Pranburi 504-5 Park 401 travel within 288 Park 431-2 415-16 Phu Ruea National Park painting 743-4 Phu Hin Rong Kla National Prasat Puay Noi 439 374-5 Pak Bara 692 Park 252-4 Prasat Ta Meuan 421 Phu Wiang National Pak Chom 373-4 Phu Kradueng National prickly heat 785 Park 439 Park 375-6 Pak Thong Chai 407 public holidays 769 Phu Pha Thoep National palaces 185 Park 401 Bang Pa In Palace 167 Salawin National Park Phu Phrabat Historical R 303 Grand Palace 61, 62-3 Park 390-1 rabies 784 Similan Islands Marine Darapirom Palace 354 Phu Ruea National Park rafting National Park 606-8 Phra Chudadhut Palace 374-5 Chiang Mai 326 Sirinat National Park 450 Phu Wiang National Park Mae Sariang 301 644-6 Pangmapha 289 439 Pai 281 Surin Islands Marine parasites 785 Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary Tha Ton 358 National Park 598-9 392-3 parks & gardens, see also Railay 12, 655-60, 656, Tham Pla National historical parks, Phuket Island 17, 56, 613- 4-5, 12 Park 297 national parks & 47, , 614 17 Ramkhamhaeng National Thong Pha Phum reserves activities 613-16 Museum 255 National Park 186-7 Lumphini Park 83 children, travel with 620 news 706 Ranong 590-3, 591 Royal Park Rajapruek courses 616 newspapers 705, 768 Ranong Province 590-7 321, 2 medical services 617 nightlife, see drinking & Rawai 625-8, 626 Sala Kaew Ku 376 tours 616 nightlife Rayong 456-7 Santi Chai Prakan travel to/from 617 Nong Khai 376-82, 377, Park 75 Red Lotus Sea 390 travel within 617 378 Thung Si Meuang 422-3 religion 705, 730-2 Phuket Town 618-25, 618 noodles 734 passports 772-3, 774 responsible travel 758-62 accommodation 620-1 Northeastern Thailand 55, pàt pàk bûng fai daang road hazards 778 activities 620 364-443, 366-7 738, 739 road rules 778 accommodation 364 courses 620-1 802 rock climbing 41, 49 smoking 768 T Chiang Mai 325, 326 Chiang Mai 326 snake bites 785 tailor-made clothes 137 Doi Inthanon National Park 362 Ko Phi-Phi Don 662 snakes 440, 753 Tak Province 268-78, 269 Ko Yao 611 snorkelling, see diving & taxes 768 Kaeng Krachan National Park 490 Railay 655-6 snorkelling taxis 779 Kanchanaburi 177 rocket festivals 442 sôm·đam 738, 738 telephone services 22,

INDEX INDEX Khao Sam Roi Yot Roi Et 440-3, 441 Songkhla 578-9 771-2 National Park 506 ruins 28, see also Khmer Songkhla Province 578-81 temples 28, see also Khao Sok National ruins Songkran 30, 333, , individual wát 28 729 Park 601 R- rum 631, 737 Sop Ruak 226-8 textiles 771  Khao Yai National V  Soppong 288-9, 17 Tha Ton 358-60 Park 411 Thai boxing (moo·ay tai) 41 S sŏrng·tăa·ou travel 779 Ko Chang (Eastern safety 769-70 spas 27 Bangkok 95-7, 133-5 Seaboard) 471 beaches 50 Andaman Coast 622 Chiang Mai 330 Ko Tao 559 children 53 Bangkok 97 Hat Patong 639 Mae Hong Son 291-2 food 785 Chiang Mai 330 Ko Samui 523-4 Mae Sakut Nature Trail hitching 778 Doi Pha Hompok Ko Tao 559 299 National Park 359 hot spots 769 Thailand–Burma Railway Mae Sariang 300 Ko Samui 523 178, 15 road 778 Pai 281 Mae Hong Son 292 646-7 săhm·lór travel 779 Phu Kradueng National Pai 279, 281 Tham Erawan 388 Park 375 Sai Yok National Park 185 sports, see golf, Thai boxing Tham Lot 289-90, Sangkhlaburi 189 Salawin National Park 303 17 Sri Mariamman Temple Tham Phothisat 376 Similan Islands Marine Sam Phan Bok 431 81-2 Thanarat, Sarit 715 National Park 607 San Jao Phaw Khao Yai 450 Surin Islands Marine Srivijaya culture 708-9 That Phanom 396-8, 397 San Kamphaeng 360 National Park 599 STDs 784 theatre 748-9, 749 Sanctuary of Truth 451 Tha Ton 358 strongyloides 783 theft 770 Sangkhlaburi 187-90 tsunamis 602, 604 Suan Hin Pha Ngam 376 Thong Pha Phum 186 Sangkhom 383-4 tuberculosis 783 Suan Sawan 376 Thong Pha Phum National sà·nùk 728 túk-túk travel 779 Sukhothai 254-62, 255, Park 186-7 Satun 689-91, 690 turtles 459 256 Three Pass 190 Satun Province 689-702 typhoid 784 accommodation 258-60 Temple 184 Sawankhalok 264-5 typhus 783 activities 257-8 184, 683, 754 Sawankhalok Kilns 264 drinking 260-1 time 22, 772 Sawanworanayok National food 260-1 Museum 264 Tinsulanonda, Prem 715 U sights 254-7 scams 135, 143, 770 tipping 25, 768 Ubon Ratchathani 422-7, tourist information 261 sculpture 743-4 toilets 772 424 travel to/from 261-2 Ubon Ratchathani Province Shinawatra, Thaksin 716-17 tourist information 772 travel within 262 422-32 Shinawatra, Yingluck 717-18 tours 779-80, see also Sukhothai Historical Park boat trips, walking Udon Thani 384-9, 386-7 shopping 28, 770-1, 16, 254, , , tours Udon Thani Province see also individual 255 256 , 384-91 locations 16 730 touts 770 710 train travel Um Phang 274-7, 276 Si Racha 448-9, 448 Sukhothai Province 254-65 to/from Thailand 776 Upper Gulf 55, 484-516, Si Saket 422 sunburn 785-6 within Thailand 780 485 Si Satchanalai 262-3 Sundaravej, Samak 717 accommodation 484 Si Satchanalai-Chaliang Trang 680-3, 682 Sung Noen 413 climate 484 Historical Park 262-5, Trang beaches 683-4 263 Sungai Kolok 585-6 Trang Islands 684-9 food 484 Si Wiang Dinosaur Park Surat Thani 571-4, 572 Trang Province 680-9, 681 highlights 485 439 surfing 41 Trat 465-7, 466 Upper Isan 365-401 Similan Islands Marine Hat Kata 629 travel to/from Thailand National Park 15, 606- Krabi 652 774-6 8, 607, 15 V Phuket Island 615-16 travel within Thailand vacations 769 Sirinat National Park 644-6 776-80 Sirinat National Park vaccinations 781-2 skin problems 785 644 trees 754 Vegetarian Festival 32 Surin 417-19 trekking 40-1, 49-50, see vegetarian travellers 118, also national parks & Surin Islands Marine 121, 737 Map Pages 000 National Park 15, 598-9 reserves Vejjajiva, Abhisit 717 Photo Pages 000 Surin Province 417-21 Chiang Dao 355 visas 22, 26, 772-3 803 volunteering 761-2 Wat Pa Sutthawat 428 Wat Sri Khom Kham 233-4 wildlife 27, 492, 753-4, see Ko Chang (Eastern Wat Pa Thama Uthayan 433 Wat Srisuphan 319 also individual species Seaboard) 471 Wat Phan Tao 315 Wat Suan Dok 320 Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife Ko Lipe 699 Wat Phanan Choeng 161 Wát Suan Mokkhaphalaram Sanctuary 356 illegal trade 756 Ko Samui 521-2 61, 4, 64-5 575 Khao Phra Thaew Royal Sirinat National Park 645 Wat Pho Chai 377 70

wildlife 471, 492, 521, Wat Suwandararam 159 Wildlife & Forest INDEX Wat Pho Chai Sri 391 Reserve 646 645, 646, 672, 761-2 Wat Tha Ka Rong 162 Wat Pho (Ko Pha-Ngan) Khao Yai National 540 Wat Tha Ton 358-9 Park 411 -W (Bangkok) Wat Tham Chiang Dao 356 Libong Archipelago  V wakeboarding 542 61, 35, 62-3, 740, 751 Wat Tham Khao Pun 177 Wildlife Reserve 688  Z walking, see trekking Wat Phra Kaew (Chiang Wat Tham Khuha Sawan Phu Khiaw Wildlife Rai) 206 walking tours 430 Sanctuary 440 Wat Phra Kaew Wat Tham Seua 177, 647 Bangkok 100, 106, 119, Phu Wua Wildlife (Kamphaeng Phet) 265 106, 119 Wat Thung Si Meuang 423 Sanctuary 392-3 Wat Traimit 77 Phuket Gibbon war 584-5, 719 Woramahawihaan 576 Wat U Mong Thera Jan 320 Rehabilitation Project Wat Ao Noi 508 Wat Phra Non 235 Wat Wang Wiwekaram 188 646 75-6 Wat Phra Ram 158 Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon 161 Similan Islands Marine Wat Ban Tham 177 Wat Phra Si Ratana National Park 607 waterfalls 91 Mahathat 246-8 Surin Islands Marine Ao Khanom 574 Wat Bowonniwet 75 307 National Park 599 Doi Inthanon National Wat Bupparam 319 Wat Phra Si Sanphet 158 volunteering 471, 492, Park 363 Wat Burapha 441 Wat Phra That Bang Phuan 521, 645, 646, 672, Kaeng Krachan National Wat Chai Wattanaram 159 382-3 761-2 Park 491 Wat Chang Lom 262 Wat Phra That Chae Haeng wine 375, 496 Khao Phra Thaew Royal 242 women travellers 773 Wat Chedi Liam 320 Wildlife & Forest Wat Chedi Luang (Chiang Wat Phra That Chang Reserve 646 women’s health 786 Kham 242 Saen) 223 Khao Yai National WWII 719 Wat Chedi Luang (Chiang Wat Phra That Cho Hae 237 Park 411 Mai) 311, 314-15, 35 Wat Phra That Doi Kham Ko Kut 482 Wat Chiang Man 316 322 Y Nam Tok Hin Lat 520 yachting 616 Wat Dhammachak Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu Nam Tok Huai Phai 374 Yala 581-2 Senaram 413 294, 2-3 Namtok Huay Luang 432 yam 738, Wat Hin Mak Peng 383 Wat Phra That Doi Suthep 739 Nam Tok Khiri Phet 470 yoga courses Wat Jet Yot 324 322-3, 7 Nam Tok Mo Paeng 279 Hat Kata 630 Wat Jong Klang 291 Wat Phra That Doi Wao 219 Nam Tok Na Muang 520 Ko Chang (Andaman Wat Kamphaeng Laeng 487 Wat Phra That Hariphunchai 195-6 Nam Tok Soi Sawan 431 Coast) 594 Wat Khao Angkhan 416-17 Wat Phra That Lampang Nam Tok Than Mayom 469 Ko Lipe 699 Wat Kudi Dao 161 Luang 203-4 Nam Tok Than Sadet (Ko Ko Samui 523 Wat Kuha Pi Muk 581 Wat Phra That Nong Bua Pha-Ngan) 540 Ko Tao 560 Wat Lai Hin 204 423 Nam Tok Thilawsu 275 Ko Yao 611 Wat Lam Duan 377-8 Wat Phra That Pha Ngao Phu Khiaw Wildlife Wat Lan Khuat 422 223 Sanctuary 440 Wat Lokayasutharam Wat Phra That Phanom 396 Phu Kradueng National Z 159, 28 Wat Phra Thong 647-8 Park 375 ziplining Wat Luang 235 Wat Phu Khao Noi 540 weather 22, 30-2, 49, 764, Chiang Mai 325, 11 see also individual Wat Mahathat 159, 254-5 Wat Phu Thok 392 Ko Chang (Eastern locations Seaboard) 469 Wat Mahathat Worawihan Wat Phumin 241 486 weaving 439 zoos Wat Phutthai Sawan 162 websites 23, 706 Chiang Mai Wat Ratchaburana 158 79 Weerasethakul, 321 Wat Ratchanatdaram 70-1 Wat Na Phra Men 162 Apichatpong 750 322 Wat Rong Khun 208 Wat Nong Bua 245 weights 768 101 Wat Salaloi 403 Wat Nong Pa Phong 428-9 whisky 737 Queen Saovabha Wat Si Chum 256, Wat Nong Wang 432-3 730 Wiang Kum Kam 320 Memorial Institute 81 Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram Wat Pa Nanachat 429 Wihan Phra Mongkhon 423 Wat Pa Sak 223 Bophit 158 804 NOTES 805 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 806

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/ Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd David Eimer Hua Hin & the Upper Gulf A decade of visiting Thailand in search of beaches and fine food prompted David to relocate to Bangkok in 2012. Since then, his work as a journalist for a variety of newspapers and magazines has taken him from the far south of Thailand, to its northernmost extremities, with many stops in between. Originally from London, David spent seven years living in Beijing, and another five in LA, prior to moving to Bangkok.

Bruce Evans Northeastern Thailand Bruce first visited Thailand in 1973 and it was love at first sight. He was back there in 1975 as part of a spiritual quest that ended in a Buddhist monastery in Northeast Thailand with the famous meditation teacher Venerable Ajahn Chah. He became a monk and stayed in various monasteries, mostly in Isan. After 17 years, he left the monkhood and worked as an editor and translator in Bangkok before moving to Australia in 1999, where he worked as an editor and managing editor at Lonely Planet until 2013. He now works as a freelance editor, transla- tor and interpreter, and lives in Melbourne with his wife, Lek, and two children, Emilie and Richard. He is stoked to have had the chance to go back to his familiar haunts for this edition of Thailand.

Damian Harper Ko Samui & the Lower Gulf Damian traded a career in bookselling for a four-year degree in Chinese, a decision that propelled him towards the Far East and a sharp change of tack into travel journalism and guidebook writing. Since the late 1990s, Damian has worked on Lonely Planet guides as diverse as China, Malaysia, Singa- pore & , , Hong Kong, Macau and Guangzhou, London and Ireland. Yo u can find him at www.damianharper.com. damian also wrote theMonth by Month, Travel With Children, People & Culture, Arts & Architecture and Environment & Wildlife chapters.

Isabella Noble Phuket & the Andaman Coast English-Australian-Spanish Isabella writes about Thailand, India, Spain and beyond for Lonely Planet, Telegraph Travel and others. A big fan of Phuket despite its touristy reputation (she also penned Lonely Plan- et’s Pocket Phuket), Isabella first fell for the Andaman on a 2008 backpacking extravaganza. Her highlights this time around: boating into gorgeous Ko Ngai, getting lost in colourful Phuket Town, finally tackling tubing in Khao Sok and es- caping it all on Ko Phayam. She lives in London and blogs at www.isabellanoble.blogspot.com. Find her on Twitter and Instagram (@isabellamnoble). Read more about Isabella at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/isabellanoble AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Beales Ko Chang & Eastern Seaboard After working as a journalist for 13 years, Mark swapped the chilly shores of England for the sunnier coasts of Thailand. Since 2004 Mark has lived in Thailand, where he has contributed to around a dozen books for Lonely Planet, been a TV presenter and dragged his backpack to every country in Southeast Asia. He is currently Head of English at an international school on the eastern seaboard. Mark lives with his wife, Ann, and their son Daniel. For more on Mark’s work, visit www.markbeales.com. Mark also wrote the Top 20, Need to Know, First Time, What’s New, If You Like, Itineraries, Activities and Regions at a Glance chapters. Read more about Mark at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/markbeales_thailand Tim Bewer Central Thailand While growing up, Tim didn’t travel much. He’s spent most of his adult life making up for this, and has since visited over 80 countries, includ- ing most in Southeast Asia. After university he worked briefly as a legislative assistant before quitting capitol life to backpack around West Africa. It was dur- ing this trip that the idea of becoming a freelance travel writer and photographer was hatched, and he’s been at it ever since. He now lives in Khon Kaen, Thailand. Find him at www.timbewer.com. Read more about Tim at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/timbewer

Joe Bindloss Chiang Mai Province Joe was first smitten with Thailand while travelling overland through Asia in the early 1990s, and he has returned more times than he can count over the intervening years to climb, dive, trek and shop for cooking paraphernalia so he can make Thailand’s fantastic food at home. Joe has written for more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, from Thailand and Myanmar to India and Nepal. When not on the road, Joe is Lonely Planet’s Destination Editor for the Indian Subcontinent.

Austin Bush Bangkok Austin came to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language-study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have man- aged to keep him there since. Austin is a native of Oregon and a writer and pho- tographer who often focuses on food; samples of his work can be seen at www. austinbushphotography.com. Austin also wrote the Welcome To Thailand, Eat Like a Local, Food & Drink, Food Spotter’s Guide and Survival Guide chapters. Read more about Austin at: OVER MORE http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/ost_th PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 16th edition – July 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 74321 871 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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