©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 794 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS AUTHOR THANKS Many thanks to the travellers who used Mark Beales the last edition and wrote to us with help- Firstly, thanks to Sarah Reid for offering me ful hints, useful advice and interesting the chance to return to this guide. In Bang anecdotes: Saen, Michiel and Mynd had some great tips A Alma Asuai, Andrea Zanchi, Anne Légaré and on Ko Kut, Seren was a star. On Ko Chang, B Bill Weir C Charlotte Toolan, Clare Blen- thanks to Ian, Lisa and Olivier, who all helped kinsop D Daniëlle Wolbers, David Cross, immensely while Eric and Issac had some great Déan Smits, Des Moriarty E Elisa Fernan- ideas. The staff at TAT were as helpful as ever, dez, Eric Bitencourt F Francesco Agnelli, especially K.Suladda and K.Kesorn. Lastly, Francesco Franceschi G Geoffrey Taylor, thanks to Ann and Daniel. Grant Jarvis H Hans van Ek I Isabella Capel-Timms J Jarosław Śmietana, Jeroen Tim Bewer Reitsma, Jessica Meier, Jildau van den Berg, A hearty kòrb kun kráp to the many people who Jocelyn Bulgin, John Zachariassen, Jourdan helped me out during this update. In particular Shapiro, Julian Rudd, Juliane Dicke, July Marín Prapaporn Sompakdee provided great help. K Karen Fogh, Karlie Drutz, Keith Freeman, And, of course, a special thanks to Suttawan Kerry O’Connor L Leah Kroes, Louis Aarts, for many things. Lucia Urgell M Maria Clavero , Marielle Boivin, Matthew Huxtable, Michael Roos, Joe Bindloss Michelle Tan, Mike Kear N Nicholas Jar- Thanks as always to Linda and Tyler, for help- vis P Peter Lilley R Rob Falloon, Roscoe ing me get the authoritative answer on which Ward S Samantha Jeffery, Sarah North, elephant centres, restaurants, monasteries Sharon Dayan, Shira Rotem , Simon Partridge, and waterfalls are truly family-friendly, and Stéphanie Visser, Stig Buch U Ursula Rose for holding the fort at home while I finished up V Veronika Stalz W Wendy Chrisman, research. In Chiang Mai, thanks to the Tour- Willemijn Schneyder Z Zdenek Klusacek ist Authority of Thailand, the staff of Awana House, the many patient red car drivers who put up with stop/start trips around the hills, and the locals and travellers who helped me find new and surprising things to see and do. 795 Austin Bush Charoon Juntra, Brigitte Gomm, Matt Ru- My thanks to the previous authors of this bin, Jessica Meier, Eveline Fortuin, Amanda, guide, Joe Cummings and China Williams – Suwatchai Praesomboon, Stanley Chang believe it or not, some of your words live on! and Mark Tewari. Loved the company of Destination Editor, Sarah Reid; this edition’s the charming family on the train from Hat Local Knowledgers ‘Bi’, Pongtawat ‘Ian’ Yai to Surat Thani, you are fine people and I wish you every good fortune. Cheers also to Chalermkittichai and Joe Cummings; part- BEHIND THE SCENES time research assistants Kathy MacLeod my brother and Thailand enthusiast, John. and Maher Sattar; and the rest of the kind Thanks to Daisy, Tim and Emma, as always. folks on the ground in Bangkok and northern Thailand. Isabella Noble David Eimer Thanks to everyone who helped out on the Thanks to Sarah Reid and all the LP crew. As road, whether knowingly or not, particularly ever, much gratitude to everyone who passed Jamie Monk and Lee Cobaj for the stellar on tips, whether knowingly or unwittingly. Phuket intel. Cheers to Paul on Ko Phayam, elephant expert John Roberts, the Gibbon Re- Bruce Evans hab Project crew and Ann for Thai language I was especially fortunate to have two good tips. Thanks to my hardworking co-authors, friends help me on this trip: Gamontip especially fellow island experts Mark Beales Prayoontong (Dukata) and one of my old and Damian Harper. Extra special thanks associates from my Buddhist monk days, to Andrew, Raquel and Papi for pitching in, Thanom Kongphet, who took me on a road and to my favourite research assistant Jack trip through Nong Khai, Udon Thani and Noble. Bueng Kan (his home town). Thanks also to Khun Sutchaniphat and Khun Banphot for the trip to Phu Thok. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Destination Editor, Sarah Reid for taking ACKNOWLEDGMENTS a chance on me, and to Anthony Ham for Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, providing valuable authoring tips. In Thailand, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updat- author Tim Bewer provided information ed World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate about his home region. Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Damian Harper Illustrations pp62-3 and pp64-5 by Many thanks to all who eased the way and Michael Weldon. came up with ideas, help and suggestions; Cover photograph: Buddhist monks light most notably, gratitude to Neal Bambridge, floating lanterns, lifeispixels/Getty ©. Destination Editor Sarah Christopher Pitts, Vicky Smith, THIS BOOK Reid Gabrielle Stefanos This 16th edition of Lonely Product Editors Elin Berglund, Assisting Cartographers Planet’s Thailand guidebook Alison Ridgway David Kemp, Valentina was researched and written by Regional Senior Cartogra- Kremenchutskaya Mark Beales, Tim Bewer, Joe pher Diana Von Holdt Cover Researcher Naomi Bindloss, Austin Bush, David Book Designer Cam Ashley Parker Eimer, Bruce Evans, Damian Thanks to Daniel Corbett, Harper and Isabellea Noble. Assisting Editors Andrew Bain, Judith Bamber, Nigel Bruce Evans, Andi Jones, Karyn This guidebook was produced Noble, Ellie Simpson, Tasmin by the following: Chin, Gabrielle Innes, Anne Mulvaney, Monique Perrin, Waby, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 796 Index A arts 743-51, see also Ban Ta Klang 420 Doi Inthanon National accommodation 24, 763-5, architecture, dance, Ban Tawai 361 Park 362 see also individual literature, music, Ban Tha Sawang 420 Khao Sam Roi Yot painting, sculpture locations Ban Thoet Thai 217 National Park 506 assault 769 activities 30-2, 40-1, see Bang Saen 445 Khao Yai National Park 412 ATMs 767-8 also individual activities Bang Saphan Yai 511-13 Phitsanulok 248 avian influenza 783 air travel Bangkok 11, 54, 58-150, Phu Khiaw Wildlife Ayuthaya 13, 158-67, , Sanctuary 440 to/from Thailand 774 160 59, 66-7, 72-3, 78, 80, , within Thailand 26, 776 13 28 82-3, 86, 88-9, 92-3, Bo Sang 360 Akha people 724-5, 13, 721 accommodation 162-4 96, 98, 102, 139, 151, boat travel 776 Amphawa 152, 153 drinking & nightlife 165 4, 10-11, 35, 729, 740, boat trips Andaman Coast 56, 587-702, emergency services 165 742, 745, 751 Bangkok 100 588-9 festivals & events 162 accommodation 58, 103-15 Chiang Rai 359 accommodation 587 food 164-5 activities 95-9 Mae Hong Son 292 climate 587 medical services 165 children, travel with 101 books 704, 708, 731, 750-1 food 587 sights 158-62 climate 58 border crossings 775-6 highlights 588-9 tourist information 166 courses 99 Cambodia 418, 468, 477 Ang Thong Marine National tours 162 drinking & nightlife China 775 Park 541, 570-1 travel to/from 166 126-30 Laos 232, 245, 382, 432 animal welfare 184, 260, travel within 167 emergency services 143 Malaysia 586, 691, 775 327, 473, 492, 638, Ayuthaya kingdom 710-11 entertainment 130-5 Myanmar 222, 274, 511 759-60 Ayuthaya Province 158-67 festivals & events 101-3 safety 769 animals 27, 492, 753-4, see food 58, 115-26 Bridge on the River Kwai 15, also individual species highlights 59 178, 179, 15 antiques 135, 770 B history 59-60 Buddhism 328, 428, 731-2 Ao Bang Thao 642-4, Baan Dum 208 642 itineraries 60 budgeting 23, 25 Ao Khanom 574-6 Baan Khrua 86-7 medical services 144 Bueng Kaen Nakhon 432-3 bà·mèe 738, 738 Ao Nang 651-4, 50 scams 143 Bueng Kan 391-2 Ban Ahong 393 Ao Phang-Nga 609-13, shopping 135-42 Bueng Kan Province 391-3 609, 45 Ban Bang Bao 469 sights 60-95 Buriram Province 414-17 Ao Phang-Nga National Ban Bo Luang 246 tourist information 142-5 bus travel Park 610-11 Ban Chiang 389-90 tours 99-100 local transport 779 aquariums Ban Chok 421 travel to/from 145-6 to/from Thailand 776 Mekong Underwater Ban Kamthieng 86-7 travel within 146-50 within Thailand 776-7 World 393 Ban Khok Sa-Nga Cobra walking tours 100, 106, Nong Khai Aquarium 377 Village 440 bushwalking, see trekking 119, 106, 119 Phuket Aquarium 625 Ban Khwao Sinarin 421 business hours 23, 768 bargaining 25, 770 Roi Et Aquarium 442 Ban Krut 511-13 bathrooms 772 Siam Ocean World 101 Ban Mae Kampong 362 beaches 46-50 C architecture 740-2 Ban Na Kha 390 Cambodia border beer 737 area codes 23, 771 Ban Na Ton Chan 257 crossings 418, 468, 477 Bhubing Palace 323-4 art galleries, see museums Ban Pa-Ao 429 car travel bicycle travel, see cycling & galleries Ban Phe 456-7 driving licences 777 Big Buddha 632 Ban Prasat