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The Sushi Bento at Naniyori

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We’ve got some great stuff in this issue. We did our first EDITORIAL ever quiz, where you can gauge your competency as a Indi Samarajiva Colombar. If you feel inadequate after that, we’ve hooked Bhagya Goonewardhane you up with a guide to 24 hours in to impress Aisha Nazim Imaad Majeed your visiting friends! Shifani Reffai Kinita Shenoy We’ve also done lots of chill travels around the island, from Batti to Koggala Lake to Little Adam’s Peak. There’s ADVERTISING going to be plenty more coming up as we go exploring Dinesh Hirdaramani during the April holidays, so check the site yamu.lk for 779 776 445 / [email protected] more. CONTACT 11 454 4230 (9 AM - 5 PM) With the Ides of March around the corner, just remember [email protected] that any salad is a Caesar Salad if you stab it enough. PRINTED BY Imashi Printers ©2015 YAMU (Pvt) Ltd 14/15A Duplication Road, Col 4 kinita

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scarlet room 32, Alfred House Avenue, Colombo 03 | 11 4645333

BY BHAGYA their dishes with the exception (Rs. 950), which of a few mains are quite reason- sounded quite interesting on pa- The Scarlet Room is Colombo ably priced between Rs. 800 and per. Scarlet Room being an Ital- Courtyard’s Italian restaurant. Rs. 1500. ian restaurant, we were looking Their all-red theme may not ap- for a risotto with the flavour of peal to some, but we found the We started out by splitting a Sea- a Spanish paella. The prepara- food to be surprisingly afford- food Salad (Rs. 750) which was tion and texture of the is the able. Execution was a mixed actually quite a hefty portion. most important factor of a risot- bag, with a few dishes missing This was a mix of lettuce, cu- to and this one came across as a the mark and others doing quite cumber, green apple, calamari, tad bit undercooked, just shy of well. shrimp and scallops (which are that perfect al dente texture. The quite a rarity here in Colombo). flavour, however, was mostly on THE FOOD Both the veggies and the sea- point with the flavour of the sea- The Scarlet Room has been food were very fresh, with the food coming through well, along around since Colombo Court- apple adding a bit of acidity, with the light crunch from the yard’s inception, but it never but most impressive of all was peas. They had opted to go with quite sparked the public’s inter- the fact that the scallops were chicken bockwurst with this one, est, perhaps because it’s only cooked perfectly. All in all, con- which was fine, though we would open for dinner. Their menu is sidering the portion size and all have much preferred chorizo - or predominantly Italian with a few the seafood that was in it, this is at least a pork sausage. fusion dishes as well. With Co- a pretty good deal. Buuut, it did lombo Courtyard being a bou- need quite a bit of salt to really For an Italian restaurant, the tique hotel, no one would blame bring out the flavor of the sea- Scarlet Room offers surpris- you for expecting the prices to food. ingly few pork options, so we be steep. The thing is, most of The first of our mains was the ended up going choosing the 9 9

grilled pork chop with green ap- had what tasted like sponge and to use the washroom, which can ple and balsamic sauce (Rs. cream cheese (though we aren’t get pretty annoying if you came 1200). This one is actually not too sure about the latter). In any for a private meal. really an Italian preparation at all, case, the flavour of the coffee but for what it’s worth the pork was quite distinct and the substi- We didn’t run into any issues as chop was cooked perfectly with tutes got the job done in terms far as service was concerned, the sauce adding both sweet- of texture. though only two other tables ness and acidity. The presenta- were occupied on the night we tion, however, could definitely AMBIENCE & SERVICE dropped in. All of our dishes use work, and restaurants really As the name implies, the Scarlet were prepared in under fifteen need to stop cutting veggies Room has a red theme running minutes and the waiters were with zigzag cutters (or whatever across the restaurant. But be- friendly, attentive and just pleas- the tool is called). Using this just sides the walls, the rest is pretty ant to interact with. makes the veggies look incred- standard with white table cloths, ibly unappealing, and shows a comfy cane chairs, and some CONCLUSION lack of attention to detail. artsy black-framed photos. The The Scarlet Room isn’t really the restaurant itself quite dimly lit, most authentic Italian restaurant The Tiramisu (Rs. 650), while which works well with the red in the city, but it makes for a has- not the most authentic, was still walls, but if you’re not a fan of sle free, semi-fine dining experi- pretty satisfying. This was more the red theme in general, this ence. Considering that the total of a cross between tiramisu and probably isn’t the place for you. tab for a salad, two mains and cake with multiple layers. While The one thing that tends to ruin two desserts came in at under classic tiramisu is made us- the dining experience is the fact Rs. 4500, we think it’s a pretty ing ladyfingers (the , not that customers from both Cloud good deal. okra) and mascarpone, this one Cafe and Loft come down to SR 10

arabian knights 379, Galle Road, Kollupitiya, Colombo 03 | 112 301032

BY BHAGYA Colombo have had some un- very distinct flavour, with a fortunately short stints, but undertone of what tasted like Arabian Knights, along with AK has managed to anchor it- aniseed. the likes of Hazari’s, has long self quite well. Their prices are The Cheese Sambosek (Rs. been one of Colombo’s Middle comparable to that of Hazari’s, 660) is a sort of melted Eastern staples. It’s tough be- which is to say that it’s fairly cheese-filled patty. If you’re ing an Arabic restaurant here, reasonable considering the into gooey cheese-filled food, but AK has held strong and portion sizes so managing un- this will be right up your alley. we’ve become progressively der Rs. 1200 is easily possible. It’s a pretty straightforward bigger fans over the years. dish, though the patty itself We started with the Vegetable was a bit on the sweet side, THE FOOD Soup (Rs. 410) which was ba- which we found a bit odd. If you’ve been following our re- sically the most boring option This comes with a garlic mayo views of Arabian Knights, you’d on the menu (blame Kinita for dip which really enhances see that we weren’t exactly picking it). I was actually ex- the flavour along with their blown away when we first re- pecting a light soup, but we light spicy and sweet tomato viewed their (at the time) new were pleasantly surprised by sauce. restaurant in Colpetty, though what we got. This soup was we loved their former branch super thick, close to a So the Hummus with Pine on Marine Drive. That being in terms of consistency and Nuts and Meat (Rs. 480) is said, over the past two years with a bunch of veges like car- technically a cold starter, but they’ve been constantly im- rots, potatoes, tomatoes and in reality it’s a main since it’s proving and have become one onions roughly chopped and so filling. This, along with the of our go-to delivery options. thrown in. It was also packed beef fatteh at Hazari’s are Middle Eastern restaurants in with spices which gave it a probably my two favourite 11

hummus dishes in Colombo. The chicken tagine had a lot were pretty good this time as The crunch of pine nuts off- going on with carrots, capsi- well. We dropped in for lunch set the smooth and creamy cums, onions and tomatoes. during a time they were hav- texture of hummus brilliantly, While those did add variety ing a discount going, but few while also adding that earthy to the dish, we felt that there of the waiters were actually flavour. I’ve had this around just wasn’t enough chicken in aware of it. Our second waiter three times now, and the beef there which was a bummer was a lot more prepared and has been on point every single since it was actually cooked knew the menu by heart, so time. They also add a bit of well. we didn’t have issues there sumac to the hummus which onwards. It was a pretty busy adds a very light tartness, all AMBIENCE & SERVICE lunch service so our food took of it coming together beauti- The restaurant’s got a slightly around fifteen minutes to get fully. weird orange-yellow theme to the table, which was fine. with blue cushioned furniture, The Chicken Tagine with Rice along with hanging metallic CONCLUSION (Rs. 640) is probably one of ceiling lamps, which make Arabian Knights have ironed their more modest rice op- for a rather incongruous look. out a lot of the kinks, and man- tions. The rice is more or less This would usually bother me, aged to maintain a good level just steamed basmati with a but it oddly wasn’t the case of consistency over the past sprinkling of sumac on top. here. It’s certainly not main- two years. The food is quite This dish is all about the chick- stream. authentic and affordable with en, and while it didn’t blow our some real winners like their socks off, it was still flavour- The service at AK has general- shawarma platter and hum- some. ly been very solid, and except mus, which make for great de- for a few minor lapses, they livery options. 12 Sri Lankan Culinary Communities

BY AISHA is home to some pretty amazing food, be it , , or anything else sweet or packed with spices. While we have things that are uniquely Sri Lankan as a whole, we also have a few dishes which are kind of exclusive to each ethnic community within the country — and I say ‘exclusive’, because that’s what each community is known and loved for. For example Christmas, when Catholics break out the Christmas Cake, or Eid that brings about hot pots of and . You get the idea - that’s how you know who to approach when each festive season rolls around.

THE SINHALESE KAVILI Avurudu, nuff said. Deep fried delicacies like , , and are seasonal favourites, especially among the non-Sinhala community. Yes, kokis is something we got from one of our colonial ancestors, but it’s so built in to our culture today that it’s a big part of local celebrations.

AMBUL THIYAL Best made with thalapath or tuna, ambul thiyal was originally a method of prepara- tion to preserve fish. It’s intensely flavourful, with a ton of spices thrown in and the fish is slow cooked for a while. It’s apparently best prepped in a clay pot.

THE TAMILS PONGAL Made traditionally on Pongal (as the name sug- gests), this includes predominantly a variety of pulses and rice. It’s also sweet, with and raisins in the mixture, and texture-wise is almost comparable to kiribath. Temples make vats full of this, so if you wander into one during Thai Pongal, you’d be able to get a portion or two.

DOSAI Other popular favourites are dosais, especially masala, and ghee dosais. We’re rather biased towards the ghee dosai at this joint in Fort, because of how crisp, aromatic, and perfectly flavoursome it is. Combined with chutney and , the ghee dosai makes for a light and filling meal. The best part is that you can get it at any time of the year. 13 Sri Lankan Culinary Communities

THE MUSLIMS BIRIYANI The Moors have biryani. Despite also being an Indian dish, this is insanely popular especially during Muslim weddings and festivals in the country. It’s popular with beef and/or mutton, but chicken’s a decent substitute too.

NASI GORENG Contributions into the food scene include what our local foodcourts make a mess of — the Ma- lay dish, — and meatier items like satays and beef rendang. That beef rendang is something, tbh. You can get it at Sentosa, or the Good Market.

THE BURGHERS BREUDHER This baked little goody. We’re not sure of homebakers who specialize in Breudher, but we’ve seen it at Perera and Sons during fes- tive seasons.

LAMPRAIS and wine, with wines more specifically focused on milk wine and king wine. Lamprais is like biryani’s brother in terms of rice popularity; we’ve even had a grand lamprais taste-off which you can read about (tl;dr: best over the counter lamprais is at Fab and the DBU). I just realized that I’ve never actually had homemade lamprais despite having Burgher friends (I’m looking at you, Crystal).

There are plenty of things which are common to all Sri Lankans, regardless of which community they’re from — like rice and curry, haal-masso, pol sambol, but there are also dishes which are special to each ethnic community on our little island. If you haven’t had any of these while living here, it’s high time you befriend someone who could bring a dish over, come Vesak, Pongal, Eid, or Christmas. Happy eating! 14

little adam’s peak Off Namunukula Road, Ella

BY AISHA THE NIGHTMAIL - you bounce, sway, and are rolled Leaving Fort at 8PM and reaching around (reminding you of the Little Adam’s Peak in Ella is best Ella at 6 AM, get ready for a very ‘piti halapan noney / piti ko- experienced at day break. What’s bumpy ride in the middle of the tapan noney’ as you end up feel- even better is one of the second- night. Tickets are Rs. 600 for sec- ing like the aforementioned piti ary viewing points a little way off, ond class. While it’s still supreme- in a sieve) as the carriages them- but more on that later. ly rickety, it isn’t half bad. selves bounces, sway, and flies through the night. It’s somewhat Getting there from Colombo can Despite missing out on the roll- exhilarating not having seatbelts be quite a trip in itself. If you’re ing expanse of beautiful land- in such a roller coaster of a ride. taking buses, you’ll have to take scape along the way during the It’s also rather quaint - the sheer about two or three to get there in day, there’s an implicit beauty in age of the carriages, absolute lack the first place. Or you can get the the sights (or lack of thereof) of of renovation and refurbishment, Superline coach to Badulla, and nature as it’s bathed in shadows the chipped, grimy plywood walls, then tuk or bus it to Ella. and silhouettes in the middle of injected with doors with rusty the night. You’d get a lone human hinges. Fat cockroaches crawl at We caught the Nightmail from cutting through all this - the dark- the junction where the walls and Fort and reached there at about ness is in some places suddenly floor meets, so take care of your 6AM, so we recommend you sliced by a beam of yellow light as bags because they can creep in. spend the night somewhere close you see a nocturnal motorcyclist Sorry we don’t have pictures,we to the Ella Junction (you can make his way through the desert- were all rather tuckered out. check out the Grand Ella Motel), ed country roads which some- and then proceed to reach Little times runs parallel to the track. THE TREK Adam’s at around 4.30 AM. From the Ella Junction (which is a The nightmail itself is also rickety short walk from the Ella Motel), it’s 15

companion peak a little way off.

You still do get stunning views though.

FIN. And that marks the end of the trek to Little Adam’s. Other things to see in the area are Ravana’s Cave and Ravana’s Falls, both which are historic sites and, rather pre- 2kms to the 98 Acres resort, from which is simply stunning. Mostly dictably, tourist attractions as where you can access the track because there aren’t any people well. which will eventually lead you to there, whereas there are a few the peak. Ask around the junc- early tourists at the former. Ravana’s Cave is 2kms away tion and find a tuk beforehand, from here, whereas the falls are so you’re all set for the morning. At some point, you’ll need to ma- another 2kms away from the You’ll be ambling about in the neuver around on all fours, but the cave if you’re interested. You can dark so carry a torch each. view at the end is worth it. hop into a Wellawaya-bound bus from the Ella Junction to reach It’s freezing out there, especially It’s secluded, with whipping either. when you’re whipping around in winds, and a view that stretches a three wheeler at high speeds, all the way to the Ravana Falls If you’re getting back to Colombo, so dress warmly! And travel light, and beyond. There’s a flat little the train station is also just a hop unless you want your back to be rock/ sitting area that’s barely away from the junction, or else dead numb by the end of the day. just enough for three people. Plus you can get the Superline from

The hike makes your blood pound, but it doesn’t really stop your teeth from chattering.

The walk up is quite spectacular. Whenever the road diverged and we weren’t sure which direction to head off into, we took whichever path seemed to lead upwards. And whichever path led to the left, for some reason. This worked for us and we were granted some you’re covered by tall wild grass Badulla later that night. beautiful pre-dawn sights. all around as well; so complete isolation from people for several Hint: the Superline (at Rs. 800) We didn’t go straight to Little wonderful hours if you’re looking is a lot more comfortable if you Adam’s when we reached the top, for that. want to get some shut-eye on opting to turn left instead. Little your way back :) Adam’s Peak is onto your right The walk back to Little Adam’s once you reach the end of the Peak takes a little over 15-20 min- Tip: This needn’t be told, but trail, but there’s a secondary al- utes, and is rather anticlimatic please don’t litter. Also, go before most non-existent trail to the left with the tourists milling about daybreak. which leads you to another peak and all that, especially after its 16 so you think you know colombo?

Colombars young and old like to say that they know this city like the back of their hand, but how well do you truly know your city? Take this quiz to find out.

1. The Galle Face Hotel was founded in:

1864 1886 1860 1866

2. The World Trade Centre in Fort is located in:

Ward Square Echelon Square Dutch Hospital Square Armoury Square

3. Sri Lanka played its first Test match at which Colombo cricket ground?

SSC R. Premadasa Stadium CCC P Sara Oval

4. The planned height of the Colombo Lotus Tower is:

320m 350m 250m 370m

5. What was the earlier name for Dharmapala Mawatha?

Town Hall Ave Queens Rd Turret Rd Park Ave

6. The National Museum was founded by which British Governor?

William Gregory Edward Barnes

7. Deepaduttaramaya Temple is located in:

Grandpass Modara Borella Kotahena

8. Pettah is:

Colombo 10 Colombo 1 Colombo 2 Colombo 11

9. The type of war memorial near the Public Library is known as a:

Cenotaph Crypt Gravestone Pillar 1. 1864 2. Echelon Square 3. P Sara Oval 4. 350 metres 5. Turret Road 6. William Henry Gregory 7. Kotahena 8. Colombo 11 9. Cenotaph 9. 11 Colombo 8. Kotahena 7. Gregory Henry William 6. Road Turret 5. metres 350 4. Oval Sara P 3. Square Echelon 2. 1864 1. 17

YAMU loves naniyori’s special bento box

We usually review places, but in this new YAMU Loves feature we’ll highlight some of our favor- ite food around the city. BY BHAGYA

For an island with an abundance of fresh fish, we Just to compare, a single salmon or tuna nigiri have surprisingly few Japanese restaurants (less usually sells for around Rs. 200, and the special than 15). With most of them coming to around Rs. bento comes with five! We almost always get this 2000 per head, it’s just not affordable or viable to delivered, yet the seafood has mostly been fresh. have regularly. There are a few exceptions though, They use slightly fatty cuts of tuna, which adds and the Special Bento by Naniyori at Rs. 920 has just a bit of richness, further complementing the been one of our long time favourites. flavour of the sushi rice. These nigiri are usually milder in terms of wasabi, which is fine since the So what sets the Special Bento apart from the oth- bento comes with extra wasabi if you prefer to amp er bentos around town? A great balance of qual- it up. The construction, while not perfect, is much ity and quantity. This bad boy comes with twelve better than you’d expect considering the price of maki sushi (kappa maki and tekka maki), five nigiri the sushi. (salmon and tuna), kaisen don (sashimi rice) and pickled veges along with a few add-ons like a small We’ve had this many times, and the consisten- sago pudding and green tea. cy does tend to vary a bit at times, but we’ve al- ways been happy with what we’ve gotten. It’s not We like to start with the maki to sort of get the taste the most refined sushi you’ll find in Colombo, but buds going. Kappa actually refers to a water-dwell- they’ve shown good technique and attention to de- ing creature in Japanese mythology that loves tail that would usually cost a lot more. The best part eating cucumber (that’s where Harry Potter got it is that this is also available for delivery, so they’ve from). The kappa maki here was refreshing, good basically got all the bases covered. You should to have in between the fishy tekka maki and before definitely order in advance though, because it takes switching to the kaisen don or nigiri. The rice in the about an hour to an hour and a half to reach. maki was cooked well, with the nori adding a slight crunch and the wasabi giving it that bit of kick at Read our review of them on yamu.lk or call them the end. on 112807380.

However, the highlight of the bento is the nigiri.

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MR. BIRIYANI 82A, Abdul Hameed Street, Colombo 12

BY AISHA be had. wanted, it’d take way longer than usual because the kitchen staff were Hulftsdorp wielded some pleasant Our chicken biriyani (Rs. 320) came busy with other, more larger orders. gastronomic experiences the last with all the usual add-ons which are I’m assuming this doesn’t happen all time we dropped by. Given that we wont to accompany the dish — a raita, the time, and that they’ll be happy to weren’t able to sample everything some spicy, well flavoured chilli paste, go make you some chicken at any down the street, we decided to give and fragrant rice. In addition to all this, other time. There are two or three ta- it another go and check out what the we got some chicken and an egg as bles inside the tiny space, and though comments in our last Aluthkadey arti- well. Needless to say, it was an abso- it looks rather run down, it wasn’t cle recommended. This time around, lute steal for the price. I loved that they unclean or gross. Meaning that we we visited Mr. Biriyani, which is appar- actually used basmati, and that the could basically eat in there without ently popular around the hood. spices were incorporated so well into worrying too much about hygiene. it, giving it an authentic North-Indian There aren’t any sinks or washrooms, FOOD & SERVICE touch. The chicken wasn’t outstand- so you get a large jug of water and an The main items on the menu were ing, being regular fried chicken. The empty bowl to wash into instead. biriyani, and also a couple of burgers, dish came piping hot though, and the fried chicken, and hotdogs. Prices are meal in itself was very pleasant. CONCLUSION super reasonable, with nearly every- Good biriyani for great prices. It’s nice thing in the range of Rs. 300, includ- AMBIENCE & SERVICE eaten hot-hot, but if you want nicer en- ing KFC-styled chicken. In addition to Belting out biriyanis within ten or fif- virons, you could get take out. Parking our biriyani, we tried getting a plate of teen minutes, the service is fast and could be difficult because that road’s that as well, but were repeatedly told the staff behind the counter polite jam-packed with tuktuks and motor- that it’d take a lot of time because and capable, despite being slightly cycles. Also, they only have aerated the kitchen was busy getting a large surprised at seeing a couple of girls drinks (coke, sprite etc) for thirst, and order together. However, they said walk in alone at night. He told us table water. We’d recommend giving the quicker dishes (ie, biriyani) could that though they had the stuff we it a try!

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SENTOSA CAFE 39A, Horton Place, Colombo 07 | 112 689111

BY AISHA we’ve had. well the chicken, tofu, and shrimps blended well together. The taste Set atop Grand Gourmet, Sentosa A bit like achcharu if I’m to compare of lemon grass could have been Cafe is perched right next to Stam- it to anything we’re familiar with, stronger, but we still enjoyed the dish. ford Bar and completes this tril- this had thinly sliced raw mangoes The spices came out nicely, so we ogy that combines weird bar scenes, mixed with other thinly sliced and recommend this. However, if you’re French fine dining, and Singapo- commonly found greens, includ- expecting the typical rean cuisine. We know this sounds ing karapincha. Throw in a bit of which usually accompanies a Laksa, strange, but that’s just what it is; three dried and fried sprats, plenty of lime you won’t get that because the noo- different restaurants/ a bar under the squeezed in, mix it up nicely and dle here is a bit denser. same compact building, run by the you’re done. We were both surprised same management. at how well this was executed given Their beef rendang comes with a that most salads we’ve come across bowl of steaming rice, and enough Despite this, the food at Sentosa is here are boring affairs. Add to that, beef to feed about three hungry unexpectedly good, they even have everything was super fresh, so that adults. a Malaysian chef. (Yes, for a Singa- was pretty amazing as well. porean restaurant, half the dishes Whilst this definitely packed in fla- were Indonesian and Malaysian. As For mains, we went for the Laksa vour and punch which we don’t get Imaad pointed out, they’re more Pan- Noodles (Rs. 760) and the Malay- in most of our local beef dishes, the Asian than purely Singaporean). sian Beef Rendang (Rs. 880), both meat itself didn’t fall apart too easily which were generous portions large and was of a much chewier texture THE FOOD enough to bring the left overs back to than what slow-cooked beef should For starters, we went for an Nyonya office. With rice noodles swimming ideally be. The best rendang we’ve Mango Salad (Rs. 450) which was in a bowl of spiced and fragrant co- had to date is at this stall at the Good hands down one of the best salads conut milk, I was surprised at how Market. 23

duty to find out how the mousse Sentosa, and had a random kid (or Moving onto dessert, we tried their was made (because I was curious), two) wander into the bar as well. So Mango Mousse with Coconut Hon- and to introduce their new chef to us. we’re not sure how the ambience is ey (Rs. 490), which was fabulous. Ambience-wise, the dining area is at night. They’ve somehow managed to get a splash of reds and oranges, and an authentic karuthakolomban fla- fin-like motifs on the walls. There’s CONCLUSION vour going on, and the tartness of the also some purple going on; the col- Sentosa’s got some really decent mango flavour went really well with our scheme is rather confusing and food, and their chef seems to be do- the sweetened cream. garish. ing a good job. When speaking to us, he mentioned that the restaurant SERVICE & AMBIENCE It’s spacious (or it seemed so be- had a few complaints regarding the Service is super friendly, and the cause we were literally the only din- food when they started up, but that steward we got went beyond his ers there), and could perhaps seat was when they had local chefs mak- about 25 people ing a mess of the food. So he’s come comfortably. One down from Indonesia and is cur- really weird factor rently revamping the menu and train- is that this is a fam- ing the local chefs on how to make ily restaurant, but it authentic Singaporean/ Indonesian/ opens up into the bar Malaysian cuisine. From what we next door. As in, when sampled, they’ve got their food game one of our friends vis- going strong. ited the bar earlier in the month they heard Tip: Try the mango salad. We were kids running around also told that their beef salad is good. and having fun at 24

tri lanka Aladuwa Watte, Pelassa, Thitthagalle, Ahangama | 777 708177

BY KINITA We were just there for a quick we ordered a bottle of the house lunch and slow drink, so didn’t get white, a Las Moras Viognier (Rs. The temperature was in its early to experience the rooms or the in- 5150), which wasn’t available. We 30s, the sky was this Gatorade vitingly azure pool. Stay tuned for asked for something along those blue, and the road was a tiny strip our accommodation review, which lines and they offered us a crisp of uneven gravel. What we really should be up in the next couple of Riesling at the same price, which needed was a shower and an iced months. We’re pysched to try out we were more than happy to set- drink, what we got was Tri. their yoga shala and water tower. tle for.

DESIGN & AMBIENCE SERVICE The food took about 35 minutes Bravely shying away from Lanka’s We entered through the parking to come, which we neither noticed usual affinity for beach resorts, Tri lot, and saw what appears to be or minded as we had our wine and is perched on a natural hill by the the entrance to a maze almost view to keep us company. Koggala Lake. If you’re automati- reminiscent of the stelai of Berlin’s cally turned off by the idea of a Holocaust Memorial. We milled THE FOOD hotel down south not featuring the about until a friendly waiter res- The food predominantly reflects Laccadive Sea, have a little faith. cued us and ushered us upstairs. local flavours, while catering to With stark nautiladae patterns, a It was all smooth sailing from Western palates. The menu is also sparkling infinity pool, and clean there. The waitstaff was efficient, pretty limited for lunch, which I per- cement lines, the eco-resort is a settling us at the spot with argu- sonally prefer because it generally testament to sleek design and ably the best view, the lounge/re- means the chef and kitchen staff chic style. It’s also supposed to be ception area overlooking the vast have carefully curated and perfect- completely sustainable, but more Koggala Lake. ed what they’ve put on offer. We on that later. were informed that dinners feature The only slight glitch came up as a 6 course menu usually showcas- 25

ing the day’s catch from the lake. platter is really just meant for tour- lection of hoppers with three ists to get a feel of local cuisine toppings - quail egg, prawn, and We attempted a Tuna Burger (Rs. without having to brave the indig- beetroot curry. While these were 1700), which had a fresh, lightly enous saronged kade uncle. probably the most chic hoppers spiced tuna patty topped with a I’ve ever encountered, the consist- crispy quail egg and accented with The kottu was strangely superb, ency leant more toward crêpes wasabi sauce, beetroot, bilimbi, with a light crispiness to it that than that crispy aerated texture of and hathawariya. It came served you usually don’t get in your usual local aappa. Either way, they were with triple cooked chips, which had cheesy-greasy Hotel de Pilawoo’s well flavoured and surprisingly fill- that perfect crispy on the outside/ kottu. It featured some fresh veg- ing. fluffy on the inside action going on. etables that weren’t tossed and Despite all the interesting flavour grilled within an inch of oblivion CONCLUSION additions, the star of this was the too. The patties were alright, and Tri’s opened in style, and they’re fresh tuna itself (apparently locally slightly spiced down so as to not clearly doing quite well for a new sourced yellowfin). cause heart burn in unsuspect- spot. With just 11 rooms and a ing honeymooning tourists. Our vast lakeside property, it’s a se- We also tried the Short Eat Platter favourite was the pork cutlet, but cluded and serene getaway. We’d (Rs. 1150), a little selection of lo- there was only one of it, which really suggest you go there for a cal time heroes like prawn made for some awkward sharing. couple’s holiday or else just boozy vadey, curried potato patty, kottu This platter is really just meant for lunch if you’re in the area. It’s , fish roll, and pork cutlet (from one person who can’t commit to a pricey, but you’re paying for that Galle’s Labuduwa Farm). If you’re full meal. view and the luxe. Sri Lankan, you may have already exclaimed “ammatasiri” and rolled The Hopper Trio (Rs. 750) was Tip: Take a boat/sea plane there if your eyes at the pricing, but this next, a beautifully presented se- you don’t have a sturdy car.

28 24 hours in colombo

BY KINITA Lacing Sri Lanka’s Western coastline, the city is small enough to explore in a short time (600,000 inhabitants, 37km²), but vibrant enough to keep you entertained. Co- lombars are a diverse lot, with a mélange of cultures, ethnicities, and architectural styles, all of which get along well. Most of the time. Colombo’s probably best expe- rienced over a lifetime, but if you’ve got slightly less time, here’s a guide to 24 hours in the city. 9AM 10AM Rise and Shine, Sleepy Head Welcome to the Jungle

Head over to Whight & Co on Marine Drive and wake Pettah is busy, it’s messy, it’s loud. It’s also a lovely up with some locally grown and home-roasted cof- bubbling melting pot of local culture, language, and fee. Watch the Laccadive Sea sparkle at you, and business. If you’re looking to just walk about and breathe in the lightly salted air. You can also try a Sri take in the eclectic charm that life in South Asia Lankan breakfast if you’re feeling adventurous - ask affords, or just do a bit of shopping on the cheap, for curry and string hoppers with the works. this is the spot. You’ll find everything from trinkets to leather to . Pick up some thambili (king coconut) to sip on, and check out the Red Mosque, the Kathisaran Temple, or St Philip Neri’s Church, all old religious edifices dating back a century or so. If you find creepy life-size dolls and political history in- 11.30AM teresting, you could also explore the Old Town Hall. Fort’s Forte Playing neighbour to Pettah, the Fort area is home to some of the city’s oldest and grandest buildings. Boasting colonial façades and bustling financial spots, Fort is a great area to walk about and envi- sion what the city would have looked like in the co- lonial heyday. A lot of the façades still retain the old name plaques and balustrades too. Our personal favourites include the Cargills Miller building, the Old Parliament Building, and the General Post Office. The Grand Oriental Hotel is also in the area and features a stunning view of the port lit up at night. 29

12.30 PM 2 PM A Barefoot Lunch Hibernation

A favourite amongst locals, expats, and tourists alike, Unless the prospect of searing heat, blaring traffic, Barefoot Garden Cafe is a quirky, leafy oasis in the and end of school day hysteria sound appealing to city. Look forward to consistently good fare, plenty of you, we’d recommend you hide. This is the best time vegetarian options, and cold beer. They also have a for a siesta. Catch your 40 winks back at your hotel, gallery featuring hot new local artists and a shop in- lounging by a city hotel’s pool with a cocktail, or at side which caters to pretty much any souvenir needs a spa with a nap-inducing massage (Spa or you may have. Nail Anatomy). 4 PM Spiritual Decadence 5 PM Galle Face Lovers

Gangarama Temple is one of the most eclectically engaging spots on the island. Despite Buddhism’s The Galle Face Green has been one of the city’s old- reputation for austerity, the Gangarama is an actual est and most frequented promenades since 1859, smorgasbord of history, clutter and randomness. when Governor Sir Henry George Ward bravely tried The premises is so absolutely stuffed with gifts, do- to set down lawns by the sea (an exercise in futility nations, and collections like vintage luxury cars, cur- valiantly repeated numerous time since then). It’s rency, statues, antiques etc, it’s a museum in itself. In about 500 metres of urban park, perfect for kite- the heart of the swirling colours, gold, and ostenta- flying, street food, and canoodling under umbrellas. tion, you’ll find an old bo tree around which you can sit down for a moment of calm contemplation and You must try the isso vadey, a crispy prawn and mindfulness. Also be mindful of the dress code, no cracker concoction the colour of the setting sun. shorts,vests, or short dresses are allowed. The ticket Nana’s is street vendor and a GF institution in itself, price also gets you into the Seema Malaka temple, you owe it to yourself to let their incredibly knowled- on neighbouring Beira Lake. Designed by Bawa in the gable waiters gently guide you through a streetside 1970’s, it’s a serene and spiritual spot, open to the el- culinary journey. ements, inviting in the gentle laketop breeze. 30

6 PM 7.30 PM Sip On Some Sunset Tropical Dining

The Galle Face Hotel precedes the Galle Face Green If you’re just here for one night, you may as well shell by a few years. Built in 1864, it is a bastion of historical out and make it count. Both Ministry of Crab and the elegance. It’s played host to numerous heads of state, Gallery Cafe combine international standards and royalty, and society weddings. The property is undeni- consistency with elegant, vibrant local flavours and ably romantic and has gone through a much- needed design. As you’d expect, MoC boasts a variety of fresh renovation of late. We’d recommend you step down seafood, and their garlic butter crab is slaveringly di- to their terrace for some al fresco drinks and watch vine. The Gallery Cafe is an older institution, housed in the sun slip into the horizon. Service is slow, but so Geoffrey Bawa’s former office, and serving up some are the waves lapping on the shore. Welcome to the of the city’s best dessert. We’d recommend you make island life. reservations in advance for both. In case you’d prefer purely Sri Lankan fare at a reasonable price, we’d sug- 9.30 PM gest Upali’s. Big City Lights Midnight Get Lucky

Shed your bags, shed your guide map, shed your inhibitions, and settle down for an evening of stellar views and over iced drinks. If you’re looking for care- At this point, a cosy bed and shower is probably your worn glamour and a lovely view of the port, head to best bet. If you’re still up and at them after this whale the Harbour Room at the Grand Oriental Hotel. If your of a day, we’re impressed. Colombo does have a few tastes are marginally classier and you actually want night clubs, but they tend to get quite crowded. If a good cocktail, try the Sky Lounge for possibly the you’re insistent on going out and exploring the night best view in the city. If gazing at visages rather than life, we’d recommend Clique for some slick tunes and vistas are your thing, try the Park Street Mews or the less offensive crowd. If you prefer a solid nap time, Dutch Hospital. They both have a popular selection of check out our list of hotels in the country here, or our bars and lounges to libate and satiate. We’d suggest list of hostels here. -based cocktails for some local flavour: Arrack Attack or Arrack Sour. 31

AMAAGE RESTAURANT Main Street, Point Pedro, Jaffna | 776 214 224

BY AISHA prepared — this is a much thin- a bit slack about replacing water ner, crispier version. It packed in used by previous customers, but Hopping a bus from Jaffna to a crunch, especially with the fried they got around to it eventually. Point Pedro, then walking along the eggs, and fried chicken, along with coastline is tiring work, especially pan-tossed veggies thrown into the CONCLUSION in the Northern heat. It’s possible mixture. Despite the thinness, this Great kottu, good place to unwind to get a heatstroke, die of dehydra- was enough for two people and after a long excursion along the tion, or both; so here’s a decent, well was filling to boot. Yum. shoreline. They also have rice and ventilated space you could go and curry, along with a plethora of sea- plonk yourself down at. They have SERVICE AND AMBIENCE food (this may be a slight exag- rice and curry, tons of milo, bottled This is like a larger, more spacious geration, but they do have prawns drinks, juices, ice cream, and kottu. family-restaurant/ saivar kade type as well as fish). Also, the whole Heaven. space, with identical tables and thing (kottu, and about 3 Milos and chairs spread out symmetrically, 3 small juice bottles) cost us about KOTTU a fridge on one end, and a ton of Rs. 550. Super value for money! We’re saying kottu instead of foodie merchandise spread out ‘food’ because that’s all I had across one wall. Try their icecream sundae concoc- there, along with copious amounts tion. of Milo and Nescafe packets. The men running it are super friendly and service is quite fast. If you’re heading towards Point Pe- Peppered with generous amounts There’s no menu, so they stand dro’s beach, this is just before the of fried chicken, this kottu was dif- over your table and rattle off a list junction where the shopping mall ferent from the everyday Colombo of foodstuff which you could pick is, onto your left. kottu in the way the parata was from. What they offered us was rice, , and kottu. They’re