3.798 m The Grossglockner Summit ascents Dangers Planning trips The highest mountain in Austria acts as a magnet for domestic and GROSSGLOCKNER Rock falls Weather report international mountain hikers. Starting with the most common GROSSGLOCKNER As a result of climate change (e.g. melting of permafrost, glacier GROSSGLOCKNER Erzherzog- The “Alpine Association weather service” oers a recorded ascents via Salm Hut and Stüdl Hut, and continuing over Stüdlgrat Großglockner Erzherzog- Johann-Hut loss), the risk of rock falls is increasing. Rock falls may also come announcement and personal advice on the telephone. Local mountain Erzherzog- (“Stüdl Ridge”) and extreme icy ascents (such as Palavicinirinne Johann-Hut Johann-Hut o the mountainsides and onto the adjacent glacier. Late spring, guides and hut landlords are also happy to provide information on Feeling safe on the [“Palavicini Gorge”]), it oers tempting goals to all mountain hikers. Hofmannskees or autumn, constitute the best times for trips onto the ice. weather and conditions on the mountain. The Grossglockner is repeatedly underestimated by mountain highest point in hikers. Even the supposedly simplest of ascents from Salm Hut Thunderstorms /sudden falls in temperature Personal advice: +43/(0)512/291600 (Mon-Sat 13.00-18.00) or Stüdl Hut up to Erzherzog-Johann Hut and the Grossglockner Such events are related to ice oods, snowfall and poor visibility. Recorded service in Austria Luisen Ridge Austria demand that mountain hikers have alpine experience and the Meletzkigrat The degree of diculty on rocky ascents suddenly increases. - Overall alpine weather: 0900 91156680 Breakfast Square Orientation becomes almost impossible in “white out” on - Eastern Alps: 0900 91156682 correct methods for roping and securing techniques. In the last Ködnitzkees glaciers in Glocknerleitl. - Regional alpine weather: 0900 91156681 few years the Grossglockner has no longer been climbed only in Mürztal Track Salm Hut summer, but has increasingly become a winter target for people Recorded service in Germany - alpine weather report: 0190116011 on skiing trips and wintertime mountain hikers. Furthermore, in Avalanches the last few years, it has become possible to regularly encounter Avalanches may occur at any time of the year, especially after mountain hikers with tents, especially on Ködnitzkees, although snowfall and subsequent wind or warming. Access to Pasterze is Equipment (normal path) made very dangerous by avalanches in winter. camping is generally prohibited in the Hohe Tauern National • 1x rucksack 30-40l Park. This trend has resulted in an increasing number of serious • weatherproof high-alpine mountain sport clothing, including jacket, accidents involving dicult mountain rescue operations. Mountain Glacier crevices top-quality gloves, hat, gaiters Routes to the top from Kals Glockner south side Route to the top from Salm Hut over Hohenwartscharte (“Hohenwart Gap”) Routes to the top from Heiligenblut Glockner north side Ropes should be used on glaciers, as a crevice fall may only be hikers and skiers should therefore be provided with important • instep crampon mountain boots (range of use C/D) controlled through ropes and the correct roping and securing • sunglasses, lip protection, sun protection cream and cover information on preventative safety measures. A large-scale census The main routes lead to the top from the “mountain climbing From Heiligenblut, through Leitertal (“Leiter Valley”) (on „Ascent of the Grossglockner from Erzherzog-Johann techniques. • sleeping bag for use in huts, means of washing (smallest format) carried out by the Austrian Alpine Association allows us to make villages” of Heiligenblut and Kals a. G. to Erzherzog-Johann Fürstbischof Salm path) to Salm Hut (4 to 5 hours) or on Hut” • rst-aid equipment, bivouac sack, forehead lamp two fundamental statements: Hut (3,454m) at Adlersruhe. Any ascent of the Grossglockner is Mautstrasse to Glocknerhaus and over Stocker Gap to 360m climbing height, xed securing points in places, class II Subjective dangers - man • combination-belt or alpine climbing harness 1. The Grossglockner does get full, but only on certain days, at certain recommended as a two-day trip. Salm Hut (2,638m; 3 hours); an alternative route leads from degree of diculty, up to 40 degrees on “Glocknerleitl”, 1.5 to Advances in equipment, alpine training and technical resources • mountain ropes (simple rope/10mm/40m) times and in certain locations. Lucknerhaus to Glorer Hut in 2 hours and another hour to 2.5 hours (even on the easiest descent). have been noticeable in recent years. As a result, understanding • crampons with anti-spike plate, 1x ice pick, 2x ice screws 2. A lot of mountain hikers underestimate this mountain. Drive a car or take the bus from Kals a. G. (1,325m) via Salm Hut; over Hohenwartkees and the western side of the From Erzherzog-Johann Hut over Firnrücken (“Firn Ridge”) of nature, instinct and therefore the ability to take the right • 2x cords (3m and 5m), 2x strap loops (120cm) Kals Glocknerstrasse to Lucknerhaus (1,920m); and then • 5x carabiners, 3 of which have screw retention, safety appliance Descent is from the Kleinglockner in the direction of Erzherzog-Johann Hut. rocks (class I degree of diculty, protected) into Hohenwart and the steep, 40 degrees ice overhang of “Glocknerleitl” via Luckner Hut (2,241 m) to Stüdl Hut (2,802m; 3 hours). decisions with regard to the weather and terrain have reduced. • Alpine Association map “Glocknergruppe” no. 40 From Stüdl Hut take AV path no. 712 to the cairn at the Gap. Continue over Salm Field to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3 up to the point where the rocks begin. Over the ridge to The size of the Grossglockner, the large number of ropes on beginning of the Ködnitzkees. Cross the Ködnitzkees and to 3.5 hours). the Kleinglockner, descent into the Glockner Gap and normal ascents and long, exposed ridge ascents require rapid in addition for access to Stüdl Ridge: over a protected ridge to Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3,454m) to over steep paving (class II degree of diculty) up to the progress and climbing and securing, using short distances • rock fall helmet, 2x express sets Adlersruhe. An alternative route takes us from Lucknerhaus Beware: glacier visits on all routes; ropes should summit cross. Bolts with rings and iron sticks are provided between ropes. to Luckner Hut and, after continuing to walk for 10 minutes, denitely be used. Crampons required. as securing option all over the rocky area. Knowledge & skills we arrive at a fork. We then turn right onto path no. 712A, Insucient skills Beware: No small route on the Grossglockner is easy, „Stüdlgrat“ (south-west ridge), 550m climbing height from This has also increasingly become an issue by virtue of exposure • surefootedness, head for heights, crampon technique to Mürztal Track. Take this route, protected in parts, up to • physical tness, condition for 8 hours and not the climb over the Salm Hut! Stüdl Ridge is entrance, partly xed securing points, class II and III and on one and narrow locations in the summit area; a lot of people struggle Erzherzog-Johann Hut (4.5 hours). • acclimatisation not a climbing ascent. section class IV degree of diculty, 3.5 hours (1,000m climbing on the way up and down “Glocknerleitl”, over the narrow • roping technique, techniques for crevice rescue* From Heiligenblut, go along Mautstrasse to Franz-Josefs- height from Stüdl Hut, 5 hours). “Glockner Gap” and back; lack of expertise in rope usage • securing technique on glaciers and ridges* Höhe (“Franz-Josefs Summit”); over the Pasterze glacier path There are around 30 routes - including variations leading up to From Stüdl Hut to Teischnitzkees, travelling west under obstructs groups pressing on from behind, encouraging them to • knowledge of orientation* Information for mountain hikers (glacier track), down to Pasterze; after crossing the glacier, the Grossglockner. More than 90% of all ascents in the summer Luisen Ridge to Luisen Gap and further west past the Grat attempt risky overtaking manoeuvres. a steep path leads up to “Frühstücksplatz” (“Breakfast months are made from Salm Hut and Stüdl Hut over the normal (“ridge”) and directly to the entrance of Stüdl Ridge. Climing in addition for access to Stüdl ridge inspection: on local mountain guides, mountain rescue, tourism Square” [2,793 m]); continue over Hofmannskees, which path to Erzherzog-Johann Hut and then over Glocknerleitl to is usually directly on the ridge - danger of rock falls on the Inadequate equipment • climbing technique - class III to IV degree of diculty associations, the Hohe Tauern National Park and the has plenty of crevices, to Salmkamp (“Salm Field”) and the summit. west side. The really dicult climbing only begins from the Mountain hikers not using ropes, or mountain hikers wanting • securing and abseiling technique* Austrian Alpine Association to Erzherzog-Johann Hut at Adlersruhe (5 hours). An The ascent from Stüdl Hut over Stüdl Ridge, leading directly second half of the ridge (Breakfast Square). to overcome the Grossglockner without appropriate use of alternative route from “Breakfast Square” is via Glocknerkar onto the Grossglockner, is also very popular. crampons put themselves and other mountain hikers at risk. * not required if led by a mountain guide Field (= “Meletzkigrad”; class II degree of diculty). Important information National Park and Emergency measures at a glance Alpine Association Refuges and valley resorts Mountain guides and history Skiing + winter ascents Given that an element of risk can never be excluded when Mountain guide agencies to Kitzbühel - München to Salzburg - Linz Salm Hut (2.638 m) - at the upper end of Leitertal Valley Stüdl Hut (2.802 m) - in the Fanat Gap You can’t learn to hike in the mountains from one day to the A few years ago the Grossglockner was still primarily climbed in hiking on mountains, use of the mountain rescue service Mountain Guide Association of Heiligenblut, Hof 4, Austrian Alpine Association - Vienna section, 50 sleeping berths, German Alpine Association - Oberland section, 104 sleeping next.