BALLY SAID IN PLAY/2 BLOOMINGDALE’S NEW BOSTON STYLE/11 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • November 17, 2006 • $2.00 Beauty Three’s Company Clarins is revamping its color cosmetics line; Shiseido is updating its six-year-old treatment line, The Skincare, and Givenchy is launching a new lipstick, Rouge Interdit. All three moves are aimed at the same target: gaining a fatter slice of a lucrative market. For more, see page 5.

Gap Inc. Still Struggling: Slow Turnaround Seen As Net Declines 10.8% By Jeanine Poggi he comeback at Gap Inc. remains a Twork in progress. As the $16 billion retailer reported a 10.8 percent decline in third-quarter earnings Thursday, due in part to sagging sales at Old Navy, chief executive officer Paul Pressler admitted it still will take some time to rebuild foot traffic in the group’s stores. The company lowered its full-year earnings guidance by 5 to 6 percent, but said on a conference call that it was focused on the turnaround and the retailer’s long-term prospects. “We’re creating great buzz in See Gap’s, Page 14 Y MEGAN MCINTYRE PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 WWD.COM Bally Said for Sale, Cole a Suitor? By Miles Socha million euros, or $419 million to $437 million, re- spectively, at current exchange, and a similar tar- WWDFRIDAY PARIS — Swiss accessories and fashion firm Bally get is set for 2006. Beauty is in play, and Kenneth Cole is said to be among Bally’s core product categories — with about 50 the bidders, WWD has learned. percent of sales from shoes, 40 percent from ac- GENERAL According to market sources, Texas Pacific cessories and the balance from ready-to-wear — Sagging sales at Old Navy contributed to Gap’s 10.8 percent decline in Group, which snapped up Bally in 1999, is said to be resemble Cole’s defi ning elements. Recently, Cole third-quarter earnings. readying an exit plan, having restructured the fi rm beefed up management ranks and announced a 1 and reached breakeven for the fi rst time last year. plan to upgrade its Kenneth Cole New York brand The holiday fragrance business is building momentum, thanks to Asked if the company was for sale, a Bally from better to the “affordable luxury” category. 4 upscale skin care and trendy color cosmetics. spokeswoman said Thursday, “We are not aware A spokeswoman for Kenneth Cole said it is com- Clarins is retooling its color cosmetics line this spring in an effort to of anything.” pany policy not to respond to industry rumors. capture a greater share of the lucrative makeup market. However, industry sources said it would be log- The identity of other potential bidders could 5 ical for TPG to take advantage of Bally’s current not immediately be learned. Donald Robertson is expected to be named senior vice president, momentum and cash out. Over the past two years, Based in Fort Worth, TPG has been among the 6 creative development, for the Estée Lauder brand. the privately held company has cited increased most active private equity funds in fashion and Bloomingdale’s newest location in Chestnut Hill, Mass., has a strong sales, healthier margins and better cost effi ciency. retail. Last year it added Neiman Marcus Group Global sales increased between 15 percent and to an investment portfolio that includes J. Crew 11 emphasis on designer apparel. 20 percent in 2005, from 345 million euros to 360 Group and Ducati Motor Holding SpA. Thakoon is launching an accessories line on his own, starting with an 12 eyewear collection. Pucci will celebrate its 60th anniversary with a limited-edition collection of 12 four iconic designs from the company’s archives. Chung Wins Fashion Fund Award Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. NEW YORK — Perseverance award to further execute her Justin Giunta for Subversive paid off for Doo-Ri Chung, who design plans. The Mulleavys Jewelry, and accessories design- [email protected], using the individual’s name. received the third annual CFDA/ and Panichgul each picked up er Devi Kroell. More than 120 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Vogue Fashion Fund award $50,000. Along with the fi nancial design businesses requested ap- VOLUME 192, NO. 105. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Thursday night. reward, all three parties plications this year. Of the 88 that additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three This year’s runners-up will meet regularly with a were submitted, half advanced to additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: — and they share equal team of business mentors the second stage before the se- S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; standing — were Rodarte’s chosen based on the de- lection committee whittled down Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Laura and Kate Mulleavy signers’ individual needs the contestants to 10. 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POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, run at the prize but lost to of fi nalists that included rector Steven Kolb and Barneys ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Georgina Chapman and New York vice president and fash- DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four Hernandez and Jack Keren Craig for Marchesa; ion director Julie Gilhart. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other McCollough. Her apparent Doo-Ri Chung Phillip Lim for 3.1 Phillip This is shaping up to be a U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. disappointment following Lim; Jeffrey Costello and memorable year for Chung, who First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, that “envelope please” moment Robert Tagliapietra for Costello took home the Swarovski Perry and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To was captured in Douglas Keeve’s Tagliapietra; Milla Jovovich Ellis award for emerging wom- subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make documentary “Seamless.” and Carmen Hawk for Jovovich- en’s wear designer at the CFDA our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would As the 2006 winner, Chung Hawk; David Neville and Marcus awards in the spring. interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. pocketed a $200,000 monetary Wainwright for Rag & Bone; — Rosemary Feitelberg WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, Investment Gains Boost Sears’ Net OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED By Vicki M. Young Edward Lampert ears Holdings Corp. on Thursday posted Quote of the Week Sthird-quarter earnings that fell below Wall Street’s consensus estimates, reporting an earn- ings gain mostly from investments as sales de- clined at its U.S. nameplates. I was inspired by satellites. By lasers. Net income for the quarter ended Oct. 28 more “ than tripled to $196 million, or $1.27 a diluted By the moon. I looked into the future. I share, from $58 million, or 35 cents, in the same year-ago period. Revenues fell 2.1 percent to $11.94 was never inspired by a woman’s body. billion from $12.2 billion, which included a 1.5 per- cent decline in merchandise sales and services to My dresses are like sculptures. $11.91 billion from $12.1 billion. Same-store sales — Pierre’’ Cardin decreased 3 percent at domestic stores, which op- erate under the Sears and Kmart nameplates. “After cutting expenses and promotions at Kmart for some time, we believe further improve- apparel at both Kmart and Sears last year. ment will increasingly hinge on sales improve- Sales and services at domestic Sears stores fell ment. Sears domestic may have more room to run 2.2 percent to $6.66 billion from $6.8 billion, while In Brief on cost savings, but the negative 4.8 comp does lit- comps decreased by 4.8 percent during the quar- tle to ease our fears that merchandising initiatives ter. The gross margin rate improved at Sears, ris- are not enough to slow share losses. However, on ing to 30.7 percent from last year’s 29.4 percent. ● FASHION PARLEY: The eighth annual New York Fashion the positive side, the $101 million in investment Similar to consumer shopping patterns at Kmart, Conference, titled “Cutting Edge: Fashion and the Avant- gains in the quarter is another sign that this man- the home fashion and lawn-and-garden categories Garde,” will take place Nov. 30 through Dec. 3 at Parsons agement team knows how to make money and is saw declines, but were partially offset by “pro- The New School for Design. The conference is organized building a war chest for potential acquisitions,” nounced sales increases” in women’s apparel, by Lisa Koenigsberg, president and founder of Initiatives in said Goldman Sachs analyst Adrianne Shapira. which the company said refl ected “improved as- Art and Culture, and will feature participants such as Isabel Edward Lampert, chairman of Sears and of sortments in this business relative to last year.” and Ruben Toledo, Zac Posen, Koos van den Akker, Holly ESL Investments, is said to be interested in Home The company invested in some deriva- Brubach, Tim Gunn, David Wolfe and Bert Stern. The con- Depot, Anheuser Busch and the Gap, among oth- tives trades that helped boost its bottom line. ference fee is $355, with a special rate of $160 for full-time ers. Financial sources said they expect Lampert to Excluding total return “swap income,” income students. Tickets may be obtained through Initiatives in Art move on an acquisition within the next six months. tax settlements and restructuring charges, earn- and Culture. By retail brand, sales and services at Kmart ings per diluted share was 83 cents versus 48 decreased 3.1 percent to $4.04 billion from $4.17 cents a year ago; Wall Street expected EPS of 98 ● OUTKAST JERSEYS: Russell Athletics and Outkast’s Big Boi billion, while same-store sales dipped by 0.7 per- cents. Income from the derivatives contributed are partnering to create football jerseys for the annual Bayou cent. Kmart’s gross margin rate fell to 23.4 percent 42 cents a diluted share. The company said the Classic football game in New Orleans on Nov. 25. Replica jer- compared with 24.3 percent a year ago. The com- derivatives are “highly concentrated and involve seys will sell for around $120 in selected Academy stores in pany said in a statement that the lower sales and substantial risks,” but did not say exactly what New Orleans and Atlanta and through buyhbcu.com, and a por- gross margin rate was partially offset by reduced the investments were. tion of the proceeds will be donated to sports teams in those expenses. While sales were lower in some home Derivatives investments involve contracts be- areas’ inner-city schools. Having also given creative input for and hardlines categories, those declines were par- tween companies that typically are hedged or spec- Outkast’s former clothing line, Big Boi designed the jerseys and tially offset by comp gains in apparel and pharma- ulative in nature. These fi nancial instruments often wants to do more such projects, likely with Russell. cy. Lisa Schultz was named the new merchant for involve equity, bonds or commodities. © 2006 Estée Lauder Inc. Shop now at esteelauder.com Shop now

I live for moments like this. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 The Beauty Report WWD.COM Fragrance Builds Holiday Momentum

By Julie Naughton and Pete Born Ralph Juicy NEW YORK — ’Tis the season of fragrance once again, Lauren’s Couture and the beauty business is building momentum — Polo thanks partly to a strong assist from upscale skin care Double and trendy color cosmetics, two categories seldom cited Black. for gift-giving appeal. At Henri Bendel, Claudia Lucas, senior vice presi- dent and general merchandise manager of beauty, noted that “skin care has been one of our strongest categories this fall, driven by the continuing success of Freeze 24/7, Chanel, Nars and Laura Mercier.” Lucas plans to keep her strong skin care business going through the holidays. “We are going to focus more on gifting,” she said, adding that she’s planning to sell gift baskets as well as single items. At least one infl uential department store retailer has echoed the sentiments of others by noting that skin care, particularly high-end brands, has been a second-half growth engine for upscale retailers, and it is expected to steam on right through Christmas. “Consumers are par- ticularly attracted to high-end skin care sets, which they perceive to be a great value,” the retailer said. Donna Karan Gold Among the hot sellers: Shiseido and Clarins. A num- ber of department stores also expect some strong performances in the fragrance department, namely have the new men’s scents. L’Homme Yves Saint 300-square-foot L-shaped counter that features samples from Armani Code, Calvin Klein’s Euphoria Laurent from YSL Beauté is exclusive at of 160 scents that can be mixed like building blocks into Man, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Double Black Bloomingdale’s and “it has exceeded more elaborate fi nished fragrances. Prices range from and Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Gio on our expectations.” Others doing well $30 to $75 for a three-pack, and there has been no resis- the men’s side, and Juicy Couture, are Jean Paul Gaultier to the Power tance in terms of price or anything else. “It’s the easi- Vera Wang Princess, Chanel No.5, of 2 and Prada Men. On the wom- est sale I’ve ever made,” she said. “People are crowded Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist and en’s side, the store has scored with around the counter. They are in thrall.” Plans call for Romance by Ralph Lauren in the Donna Karan Gold, Victor & Rolf ’s introducing the concept with a shop at Henri Bendel in women’s aisle. Flowerbomb, Hanae Mori Magical New York in the spring and then perhaps at Mecca in The holidays have always meant Moon, Betsey Johnson and Badgley Australia. “The biggest challenge is the training,” said fragrance and at Bloomingdale’s, it’s Mischka. Coe-Hutshing, who plans on adding a line of fi nished a good season for scents. “We are off In addition, Bloomingdale’s ap- fragrances sometime in the next year. to a very positive start,” said Howard pears on its way to anniversarying the High-end skin care is also driving beauty growth for Kreitzman, vice president and divisional strong gift-with-purchase business it Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general mer- merchandise manager of cosmetics and fra- chalked up last year. “We’ve got the momen- chandise manager of beauty, jewelry and accessories at grances. He was referring in part to the new tum,” Kreitzman said. “It’s so much easier to Bergdorf Goodman. “We’ve had a great fall and expect crop of fall launches. “The newness piece is run- keep a trend going than to reverse a tough trend.” that momentum to continue through Christmas,” said ning at a very healthy penetration,” he said, adding Kreitzman declined to discuss numbers or make a Burstell. Top sellers at Bergdorf ’s this fall have includ- that the normal cannibalization of the existing fra- forecast but indicated that he expects an increase for ed Jemma Kidd and Shu Uemura in color; Clinica Ivo grance business is “the lowest we have seen in a long December, particularly with the extra selling day this Pitanguy, Cle de Peau, Kanebo, Sisley and Natura Bissé time, less than half our past experience.” year. Industry sources estimate that Bloomingdale’s could for skin care, and high-end fragrances from L’Artisan A major infl uence was this fall’s launch of the Juicy achieve a gain in the higher end of mid-single digits. Parfumeur, Clive Christian and Creed, said Burstell. Couture fragrance, which Bloomingdale’s introduced Micheline Jordaan, vice president and dmm of fra- He added that there’s little resistance to price. “If under an unusually generous three-month exclusive. grances at Macy’s East, said, “We are feeling very opti- it’s right, the customer isn’t concerned about the price.” “It exceeded very high expectations,” Kreitzman mistic about the fourth quarter.” She noted that “solid For instance, “Bobbi Brown did an incredible makeup said. “Juicy enabled us to recruit a new customer and comp-store growth” has been generated this year by case stuffed with products that is exclusive for us,” said brought with it a great deal of excitement. It has had a strong performances from key existing brands, such Burstell. “It’s $1,300, but it’s doing very well. We’re also spillover effect on other brands.” as Donna Karan’s Cashmere Mist, Dolce & Gabbana seeing great things from an exclusive makeup organizer The women’s entries have been strong and so Light Blue, Giorgio Armani’s Acqua di Giò and Jean from Trish McEvoy and exclusive scents from Guerlain. Paul Gaultier’s Le Male, combined with It’s about offering interesting, high-end products that strong new introductions, such as Calvin customers can’t fi nd everywhere.” Klein’s Euphoria, Sean John’s Unforgivable At Sephora, “We are posting double-digit year-to- and Versace’s Crystal Bright. Jordaan added date comps again this year,” said Betsy Olum, senior she expects that the gains compiled in the vice president of marketing. She expects that trend to third quarter and “a very good performance continue through Christmas. “Overall, we expect this early in November will translate into strong holiday to be very strong compared with last year,” said December sales.” Olum. “Within Sephora, the makeup category continues She said the two factors driving the fra- to perform strongly, driven by growth in brands includ- grance business is the one-two punch of ing Bare Escentuals, Urban Decay, Nars, Benefi t and “newness and the invigoration of legacy Dior.” As in the past, Sephora teamed up with brands brands.” Jordaan noted that celebrity scents to create exclusive makeup sets. Olum added that the continue to perform well, but there now is bath and body category is projected to perform strongly more equilibrium with newly animated ex- with holiday gift sets, and the fragrance gift voucher isting brands. “This holiday season we have program is expected to fuel that category. invigorated the in-store presentation of fra- In addition to the Sephora branded makeup brushes grances, both visually and in terms of giftable and bags, Olum said, “The brands we expect to perform content,” she said. “In addition, we have en- the strongest include Fusion, Philosophy, Stila, Bare hanced the marketing package signifi cantly.” Escentuals and Bliss, to name a few.” In skin care, Meanwhile, Barneys New York has Olum’s standouts are Philosophy, Murad and Bliss, chalked up “some strong double-digit in- while in fragrance Vera Wang, Bulgari and Calvin Klein creases” in fragrance, according to Bettina are top performers, she said. O’Neill, vice president and dmm. The store For Henri Bendel’s Lucas, fragrances are very niche- is having a strong season with scents from oriented. “We’re doing well with L’Artisan Parfumeur, Frederic Malle, L’Artisan Parfumeur, Serge Carthusia, Child, Caron and Aftelier,” she noted. Fragrance Lutens, the new men’s scent from Hermès products for the home, such as the retailer’s private label and the indie brand L’Labo. O’Neill said the candles, are also selling well, and Lucas thinks that fra- store has been selling fewer gift sets and grance diffusers will join that list for the holidays. doing more core business in fragrance this On the color cosmetics side, Lucas “can’t keep year, with stalwarts like Comme des Garçons. Chanel’s black nail polish or mascara in the store — “We just have been editing and focusing,” there’s a waiting list for both” and is also seeing strong she said. growth from YSL’s new foundation, Perfect Touch, which Fragrance has always been a mainstay at features a built-in brush. Mally Cosmetics and ModelCo, Studio at Fred Segal in Santa Monica, Calif., which entered Bendel’s in the spring, and Therapy and president Robin Coe-Hutshing played Systems color, a fall addition, are also strong sellers at to that strength this week by launching a Bendel’s, she added. “Our customer is very on-trend and store-within-store concept called Memoire is looking for the latest thing,” said Lucas. “Holiday pal- Liquide. It is an ambitious and elaborate in- ettes do well, and we will have lots of them.” Lucas said terpretation of the perfumer’s organ with a that Bendel’s is also reinstating its holiday catalogue. WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 5 WWD.COM WWD.COM Clarins Recasts Its Color Business larins is retooling its color cosmetics line this spring in a plan aimed at captur- tality — that makeup should be accessible to every woman Cing a greater share of the lucrative makeup market. and it should be fun. Also, Clarins is very strong in skin care, “This is an important moment in time for us,” said Caroline Pieper-Vogt, senior and that philosophy and technology is carried over into the vice president of marketing for the Clarins brand in the U.S. “The new makeup col- makeup, which is rare. And the new makeup line is made lection is the most strategic of all time for us — to be a beauty authority, we need to up of beautiful, very blendable colors. You don’t need to be be successful in makeup. We are changing the formulas, the colors and the packag- a makeup artist to know how to use them. They are very user- ing. We want to bring the strength we currently enjoy in skin care to the makeup friendly.” market, and with this [new collection], we have found our voice.” That voice is in- That’s also true of the shade range. “It’s targeted,” he said. tended to be fresh and fun, she emphasized. “There aren’t a lot of weird colors that won’t be practical. I On the formula front, particles have been micronized to lengthen their wear. The don’t need to see 30 blush colors when half of them aren’t fl at- new color compacts are elliptical, a switch from the square compacts Clarins cur- tering.” rently uses. At the base of the compacts, Clarins’ signature red has been made more As well, Clarins also plans a major promo- translucent, while the formerly yellow-gold lids have been changed to white gold. tional push behind the cosmetics collec- For an extra touch of luxury, noted Pieper-Vogt, each of the compacts is also placed tion. “This will be a major investment,” into a red suede sleeve. said Pieper-Vogt, adding that the In addition, Clarins will launch 20 stockkeeping units in color cosmetics, called campaign will include a new tester Instant Light, and repackage and reformulate the present line, for a total of about unit, new makeup information piec- 220 sku’s ranging in price from $19 to $37.50. The new products offi cially launch in es and intensive education for sales March, although they will begin rolling into stores in January, said Pieper-Vogt. consultants. In addition, more than Clarins does not break out sales projections and executives declined to specu- 300,000 informational booklets will be late, but industry sources calculate that the 20 new sku’s could generate $4 million distributed, as will sample cards with at retail in the fi rst year on counter. color seals. The new tester units will Clarins retools. To promote the new line, Clarins has hired celebrity makeup artist Nick Barose, bow in January. who will be the brand’s spokesperson beginning in January. In the U.S., Clarins is available in about Barose’s fi rst gig will be hosting a pre-Golden Globes event in Los Angeles for his 1,250 department and specialty store doors. The brand, which has been selling on- celebrity clients. He also will promote the brand through TV appearances, editorial line at Gloss.com for several years, plans to launch its own Web site, clarins.com, in photo shoots and the Internet and will be a part of makeup artist education. February. “I’ve been a huge fan of Clarins for years,” said Barose. “We have the same men- — J.N. Shiseido Reformulates and Revamps ‘The Skincare’ Line hiseido plans to kick off the first half of 2007 with a number of additions to its well: “This is the fi rst time that we’ve added a lip treatment to Benefi ance, which Sskin care and color cosmetics franchises — most notably, a revamped version is one of our best-selling franchises,” said Manheimer. It will retail for $35 for of the brand’s six-year-old Shiseido The Skincare range. 15 ml. Shiseido also plans to ramp up its color sales this spring by introducing a Coming in March, the updated skin care range incorporates the newest tech- new blush called Accentuating Powder Blush, as well as adding a host of new eye nologies available, said Heidi Manheimer, chief executive offi cer and lip products. “Blush represents the largest oppor- of Shiseido Cosmetics (America) Ltd. tunity for growth [for us in color],” said Manheimer. “Skin care has historically been a very strong category for us,” “Our blush business currently represents 8 percent of said Manheimer, adding that the brand ranks at number fi ve in skin our total color business, and we are confi dent that will care in the U.S. according to NPD. “We’re up 15 percent in skin care sharply increase with the addition of Accentuating year-to-date and are seeing growth in several categories, including Powder Blush.” the brightening category. We want to keep that momentum going.” The blush will be available in six shades, each Shiseido The Skincare currently includes 28 stockkeeping units priced $28. “They’re formulated with three-dimen- ranging in price from $28 to $40. Seven of the current stockkeeping sional powders which are both natural-looking and units will be discontinued, but eight new products will be added. long-lasting,” said Yamagishi-Dressler. Yuzu seed extract, extracted from the Asian citrus fruit, is the key As well, new colors will join the existing Hydro- addition to the line. It is said to help the skin produce its own hy- Powder Eye Shadow and Shimmering Lipstick ranges. aluronic acid, a key humectant, said Tomoko Yamagishi-Dressler, In the U.S., Shiseido products are available in 897 vice president of marketing for Shiseido Prestige Brands. Other department and specialty store doors, with 15 expect- key ingredients include trehalose, a sugar found in items such as The newly reconstituted products. ed to be added by yearend, said Manheimer. cactus that is said to help lock moisture into the skin, and a tea While none of the executives would comment on pro- rose element, which is said to help improve the skin’s barrier func- jected sales or advertising spending, industry sources tion, added Jean Bellard, director of education for Shiseido Prestige Brands. estimated that the new Shiseido The Skincare range would do at least $8 million Also in skin care, Shiseido is adding Benefi ance Full Correction Lip Treatment at retail in its fi rst year on counter and that the additional products the company is in February. Powered by the proprietary Super Fix Formula — said to keep the launching in the fi rst half will add $7 million in retail sales. treatment on constantly moving lips — the waterproof product also includes a reti- Sources estimated that Shiseido’s full-year sales for the U.S. will top $210 mil- nol derivative to minimize wrinkles, marine collagen to plump lips and hespiridin lion at retail by yearend and $225 million in 2007. to minimize the appearance of dullness, said Bellard. It has another distinction as — J.N. Givenchy Zeros In on Lipstick With Rouge Interdit GIVENCHY PLANS TO PAY ITS COLOR COSMETICS BUSINESS MORE THAN currently doing,” said Degennes, who winnowed the line’s 24 shades down from a lip service by launching its new lipstick line, Rouge Interdit, in March. spectrum of 100. The colors, which range from pale pinks to dark reds, will each The line heralds “a return to serious lipstick,” said Nicolas Degennes, artistic retail for $26. director of makeup and colors for Givenchy. While the formula is intended to be the star of this product, the packaging “Rouge Interdit is a full-coverage, deeply colored formula,” said Linda is an apt understudy. Created by two designers trained at London’s Central St. Maiocco, vice president of marketing in the U.S. for Guerlain and Parfums Martin’s School, the lipstick case is a sleek square black with the Givenchy Givenchy. “Liquid crystals are the breakthrough feature that allow for maximum name in silver. Inside, the lipstick bullet is housed in a silver-toned tube em- light refl ection. While classic lipstick pigments rely on mother-of-pearl, which bossed with the brand’s signature Gs. The lipstick tube has a black ribbon only refl ect one color and can look opaque, liquid crystals refl ect pull at its base, which the user employs to remove the bullet from the outer every shade of the light spectrum, from yellow to red to blue. casing. The result is luminous color and satiny gloss in a light- In the U.S., distribution for Rouge Interdit is very targeted, said Maiocco: It weight, comfortable fi nish.” will be available in fi ve Saks Fifth Avenue doors and nine Sephora doors. It will The formula also includes poppy extract be sampled in-store via cards with several color samples and a mini lip brush. oil for hydration, ricin oil to aid in shine Direct mail is also planned. and beeswax and candellia wax for a While neither of the executives would comment on projected sales, industry spreadable texture, she added. sources estimated that the lipstick would do about $1 million at retail in the U.S. The lipstick has another dis- in its fi rst year on counter. tinction: Degennes created Elsewhere, the brand will launch a host of limited-edition fragrance fl ankers Rouge Interdit’s colors next spring, including Very Irrésistible Givenchy Summer Sun, due in March; without looking at Very Irrésistible Givenchy for Men Fresh Attitude, in May, and Ange Ou Démon the current Givenchy Silky Drop in April. Three other fl ankers that make up the Harvest Collection palette of lip colors. — Amarige Ylang Ylang 2006 Eau de Toilette, Organza Fleur D’Oranger 2006 Eau Rouge Interdit “ I wanted to do something de Parfum and Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Centifolia 2006 Eau de Parfum completely new and different and — will launch in mid-April. not be infl uenced by anything we are — J.N. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 The Beauty Report Gordon Steps Down as Bumble Chief Estée Lauder Taps By Andrea Nagel Michael Gordon Donald Robertson ichael Gordon, the godfather of editorial hairstylists, has Mleft the building. Gordon, founder and president of Bumble and bumble sa- For Creative Post lons, product development and school, has stepped down as head of the company that he sold six years ago to the Estée NEW YORK — The Estée Lauder Cos. Lauder Cos. Gordon will serve in an advisory role for the has recruited Donald Robertson as a estimated $90 million fi rm and other areas within Lauder creative force for its flagship brand. over the next three years, collaborating directly with Philip Aerin Lauder, senior vice presi- Shearer, a group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. Gordon dent and creative director of the said he will also continue to supply his photographs, used Estée Lauder brand, is expected to for promotional materials and even offi ce decor, for differ- announce today Robertson’s appoint- ent Bumble projects to “keep consistency” for the brand. Dan ment as senior vice president, cre- Brestle, chief operating offi cer of the Estée Lauder Cos., said ative development for Estée Lauder. keeping Gordon on as an adviser is something very important Robertson, who will assume the to Lauder. newly created position on Monday, “He has tremendous knowledge of the salon business and will oversee all visual aspects of the is probably one of the best product innovators. If you look at Estée Lauder brand and report to his life’s story, whether you are a hairdresser or an entrepre- Aerin Lauder. neur, it is a fabulous success story and people should be in- His experience spans beauty and spired by it.” publishing. Robertson was part of the According to Gordon, the agreement was hammered out team that launched MAC Cosmetics several weeks ago when Lauder completed its buyout of in the early Nineties, and is credited Bumble. with working on all visual elements of “That’s the way it seems to work” when people are bought the brand, including the design of the out, said Gordon of his new role. “It’s a normal business prac- makeup artist brand’s fi rst freestand- tice.” However, he added that he would help “in any way that ing store in Greenwich Village here, I can.” which has since become a prototype Karl-Heinz Pitsch, general manager of Bumble, will over- for the MAC aesthetic. see the business going forward as no replacement for Gordon Most recently, he held several is expected. posts at Condé Nast Publications, Gordon, born in London, became a hairstylist at 15. At overseeing the launch of Cargo and 21 he was the youngest artistic director at The Elizabeth the redesign of Glamour. Prior to Arden salon in London. It is also where he started his edi- Condé Nast, he oversaw the cre- torial styling career. In the mid-Seventies, Gordon moved to ative direction of two Hearst titles, Johannesburg and opened his fi rst salon there with his broth- Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire. er. In 1977 he moved to New York and opened a small salon on “Creative excellence has always 57th street, which later burned down. Soon after, he opened a been a hallmark of Estée Lauder,” new and bigger space on 56th Street and quickly became one Aerin Lauder said in a state- of the most sought after hairstylists in Manhattan. 50 products including shampoos, conditioners, fi xatives and ment slated to be released today. Bumble’s product line was developed in the late Eighties hair accessories, which are sold at select salons in the U.S. “Donald’s extensive experience con- with Brilliantine, a fi nishing lotion formulated to add shine and at retailers in 10 countries. ceptualizing visual environments at and separation to hair. In 2000, Estée Lauder took note of the Gordon has vacated the fi rm’s headquarters and is working retail and in the publishing world brand’s potential and purchased a majority stake in the com- from home on a new concept called Enlightened Business, a make him a wonderful addition to pany. Since then, Bumble has opened a six-fl oor hub in the Buddhist-based coaching role that teaches companies how to the team.” Meatpacking District, home to Bumbles’ headquarters, salon use profi ts to help others. A three-year non-compete contract — Molly Prior and retail space. Bumble now also manufacturers more than clause will keep him clear of the beauty world. Aveda Founder Teams With Regis on Organic Venture NEW YORK — Horst M. Rechelbacher, a self-de- the line would be merchandised in “high-profi le locations scribed “ecological activist,” shook up the salon in- with unique displays so that the line stands out” and even- dustry in the late Seventies with Aveda, his natural, tually would develop into store-within-store concepts. eco-friendly brand. Now he’s preparing to break “I am interested in putting stores within stores,” ground with another line, one that reflects his sharply said Rechelbacher, who is the deal’s founder, designer evolved homegrown philosophy. and educational director. “The most important thing By teaming up with salon company Regis Corp., is location,” he noted, adding that he was looking Rechelbacher has created “a head-to-toe” or- at Regis salons around the world. He is focusing on ganic personal care and cosmetics line under the Europe, but also mentioned Hong Kong and Bangkok, “Intelligent Nutrients by Horst” banner. The joint among other locales. In New York, he has already set- venture, Intelligent Nutrients LLC, plans to distribute tled on a Jean Louis David salon on 42nd Street and the products to salons exclusively. Glenn Elliott, for- Sixth Avenue that could serve as a fl agship. mer global vice president of sales for the Dermalogica For Rechelbacher, a critical factor is the ability to skin care company, has been tapped as the new presi- educate salon personnel to be in tune with his natu- dent of the joint venture. A management team has al- ral, organic vision. “It’s all about reinvention and ready been put in place. training hairdressers.” Before selling Aveda to the Paul Horst M. Paul Finkelstein, chairman and chief executive of- Estée Lauder Cos. in November 1997 for approxi- Finkelstein Rechelbacher fi cer of Regis Corp., said, “This not a Regis venture. We mately $300 million, Rechelbacher had perfected have an equity interest. This is a 50-50 joint venture, the art of selling products in salons. While many sa- “We are sick and tired of manufacturers abus- and Horst is the person who sets the table. This is his lons in the industry at that time could only generate ing the trust of the hairstylist and no one else is big vision, training and product line.” Finkelstein, howev- 3 percent to 5 percent of their total revenues in retail enough to stand up to them,” Finkelstein said. “We er, is chief executive offi cer of the new joint venture. business, he was claiming percentages as high as 65 have a 15 percent share of what is sold in North In separate interviews, the partners gave their per- percent and 70 percent. One method was to establish America. If we don’t make a stand, no one else can.” sonal opinions of the joint effort. and work through schools. “When I started schools, Finkelstein said Regis Corp. would make “plenty Finkelstein explained that he had handpicked 800 I used to promote the products,” he said, noting that of money” on the sale of Intelligent Nutrients in his Regis Corp. doors that will merchandise the line, in- Regis runs 100 schools. company’s salons. He added that the joint venture has cluding Vidal Sassoon and Carlton Hair International But the heart of his current proposition is prod- a contractual life of fi ve years, at which point it will salons, a California chain. The brand will be whole- uct assortment, which includes foods, such as teas be evaluated. He estimated fi rst-year sales of products saled to other non-Regis Corp.-owned salons; it is now and chocolates, and a whole range of personal care could be anywhere between $3 million and $20 million, being shipped to Aveda concept salons. Both partners and cosmetics — hair care, color cosmetics, skin care, depending on supply, since organic ingredients can’t stressed that profi ts from wholesaling to non-Regis body care, maternity and baby care, and even edible be artifi cially manufactured. However, he estimated salons would be turned over to charities. Finkelstein “sensuous love products.” that in three years the joint venture could generate as said Rechelbacher’s share of the profi ts would go to His vision is to market a brand of “rare edible or- much as $100 million in sales. environmental charities — such as farmers and com- ganics made of highly nutritious food substances.” Rechelbacher seems determined to help create a munities practicing sustainable agricultural tech- Rechelbacher has been working with “some edible sustainable ecosystem. niques — and Regis has earmarked its profi ts for aromatic food-grade essential oils.” “The Earth doesn’t belong to us, we belong to it,” beauty school scholarships. Both Finkelstein and Rechelbacher underscored he declared. “I want to die with a good conscious.” Finkelstein echoed Rechelbacher in declaring that what they perceive as the need for the organic products. — A.N. and Pete Born HORST PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO HORST PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 7 WWD.COM WWD.COM EasyStraight Products Address Frizz

asyStraight, the brand that brought a straight- vital to maintaining strong-looking hair with pro- Eening kit to the masses, plans to intensify its EasyStraight’s teins and natural oils that are depleted from hair. battle against frizz this spring with four new prod- new products. The conditioner externally seals in nutrients like ucts, ramped-up distribution and a fresh look. shea butter, fl axseed oil and coconut oil, soften- “I kept seeing the struggle people had with ing and smoothing the hair’s surface,” said Maria frizz,” said Haime Munoz, a salon owner and cre- Dempsey, president of HM Mane Solutions LLC, ator of EasyStraight. “I wanted to offer products the maker of EasyStraight. The fi nal step is the that delivered results that were longer-lasting. Anti-Frizz Sealant, an intensifying conditioner Many frizz-control products out in the market cre- that is to be applied after every shampoo. ate buildup. I wanted to give consumers immedi- Industry sources estimate that the four ate gratifi cation and, on top of that, make their new frizz products could generate $3 million hair healthier.” to $4 million in fi rst-year retail sales, building Munoz noted that EasyStraight’s products are EasyStraight into a $10 million to $12 million busi- designed to address the main causes of frizz, from ness. Dempsey noted that by the end of this year, the daily stresses of overusing heat appliances EasyStraight’s business will have doubled in size and chemical treatments to the hair’s natural tex- from 2005. ture and moisture absorption. Early next year, the brand expects to expand His efforts are hardly falling fl at. EasyStraight’s its shelf presence in existing retail partners and sales have increased 36 percent to about $3 mil- in new ones, including Albertsons and Target, said lion, in food, drug and mass stores — excluding Dempsey. On the international front, the company Wal-Mart — in the 52-week period ended Oct. 8, plans to gain space in about 3,000 doors in Puerto according to Information Resources Inc. Rico and Australia by year’s end. Like its predecessors, EasyStraight’s upcoming In the past, the company targeted Caucasian products are designed to reduce and repair frizz for women between the ages of 18 and 49. The line is all hair types, including frizzy, curly and wavy hair. now focusing more on the Hispanic market, which The offering includes Instant Silk, a daily treat- accounts for 60 percent of EasyStraight’s business. ment that relies on styling polymers to ward off In an attempt to update the brand’s image, the frizz; Climate Shield, a waterproof hairspray said company has revamped the packaging for all 10 of to repel moisture and humidity; Frizz Block, a de- its products. The new packaging, slated to appear frizz and repair serum designed to stop breakage on shelves in January, contains bi-lingual labels and enhance shine, and Anti-Frizz Conditioning written in English and Spanish. EasyStraight want- Treatment. The quartet, which will retail be- ed to make its products easier to understand, while tween $8 to $15 each, is slated to launch in March creating a more cohesive brand among its lines. in about 17,000 doors, including Rite Aid, CVS, “We found that our customers weren’t able to Walgreens and Duane Reade. recognize our product attributes, so we wanted to The company plans to increase its U.S. distribution by 18 percent to about 20,000 create stronger and more cohesive units on shelves,” said Munoz. doors by year’s end. Dempsey added, “We wanted to give our brand a stronger personality and focus EasyStraight’s Anti-Frizz Conditioning Treatment is billed as the star product in more on bolder product names and clearer product communication. As we extend into the lineup. The three-part system, which will retail for $15, lasts for 30 days and is more products, we wanted shopping to be a simpler experience for our customers.” designed to target the hair cuticle and repair frizz, damage and split ends. The company also plans to triple its marketing and advertising spending next “Most other frizz-control treatments don’t last more than one shampoo to the year, said Dempsey. Television ads, featuring 30-second spots in both English and next,” said Munoz. “This anti-frizz remover provides long-term frizz repair. The Spanish, will focus primarily on existing products, such as the brand’s three-month more times you use it, the healthier your hair becomes.” and one-week straighteners. A print campaign, featuring the four new frizz items, The Anti-Frizz Conditioning Treatment system contains an Internal Repair will break in May in about 10 fashion, beauty and lifestyle books. Munoz will also Solution, Cuticle Repair Conditioner and Anti-Frizz Sealant. Applied to dry-washed make about 100 in-store appearances as the company’s retail partners help to edu- hair, the Internal Repair Solution and Cuticle Repair Conditioner are designed to cate consumers on how to use products. The company even has plans to train and be mixed together and left on the hair for 20 minutes. educate beauty advisers at retailers like Walgreens. “The Internal Repair Solution infuses the hair cuticle with elements that are — Michelle Edgar

Select Aussie Aussie Tries Fresh Look to Boost Business items from the new ussie will be ringing in the New Year with a new Target, Kmart, CVS, Walgreens and Eckerd. With prod- collection. Alook, as the Australian hair care brand introduces ucts ranging in price from $2.99 to $4, each collection four new collections this January, along with repack- will contain its own fl oral or fruity fragrance, designed aging and reformulations. to offer different benefi ts. For instance, Sun Touched “The restaging of the brand recaptures what the Shine is designed to deliver a radiant shine with ingre- Aussie spirit of beauty is about and drives awareness dients such as guava, sea kelp and ginger, while Catch about it in the marketplace,” said Kenyatte Nelson, the Wave aims to enhance and maintain waves and Aussie’s brand manager. “Aussie is seen as a local curls with jojoba oil, sea kelp and jasmine. Along with jewel [in Australia], but we see North America as a offering a shampoo and conditioner, each collection big opportunity for us.” will feature a different set of products, such as leave-in Acquired by Procter & Gamble in the Clairol deal conditioners, hair spray, gel and antifrizz cream. fi ve years ago, Aussie brought with it a loyal consumer The company also hopes to increase its product of- base. However, company research showed that con- fering on retailers’ shelves, said Nelson. sumers were loyal to individual products rather than “We want to make sure all of our retailers carry the multiple items, not recognizing the benefi ts of com- breadth of our sku’s,” said Nelson. “Our customers are plete collections. women who have a number of hair care issues and are “We saw that Aussie was diffi cult to shop. We want looking for quick and simple solutions. We’re offering to make sure that we stress the importance of the en- simple ‘shoppable’ solutions that deliver benefi ts.” tire lineup and benefi ts of the collection versus spe- According to Nelson, Aussie has a 3 percent dollar cifi c [stockkeeping units] when talking to customers,” market share across all hair care categories, including said Nelson. shampoo, conditioner and styling products. He added According to Information Resources Inc., Aussie that over the next three to four years, the company sales increased 12.5 percent to about $70 million in plans to increase dollar share to 5 percent, growing sales in food, drug and mass stores — excluding Wal- Aussie’s overall business by 30 percent to 40 percent. Mart — for the 52-week period ended Oct. 8. Although executives declined to comment, industry Nelson said the growth of Aussie over the last year sources estimate that the brand, including the four new can be attributed to a distribution increase of 35 per- collections, will generate about $150 million in 2007. cent, an increase in customer merchandising in stores A total of over $50 million has been slated for an in addition to introducing a more “consumer-centric” advertising and promotional budget. Print and TV ing in addition to revamping its Web site. approach to media spending, leveraging alternative ads featuring the new products will break in January. Aussie also signed Australian celebrity hairstyl- media vehicles such as interactive along with tradi- Print advertising will appear in single- and double- ist Frank Galasso as the brand’s spokesman in July tional media like television and print. page ads in 12 to 15 beauty, fashion and lifestyle and is currently in discussions to extend his contract. Aussie will relaunch 32 products and introduce 16 books. For the fi rst time, the company will be doing Galasso works on the West Coast where he manages sku’s in four new collections. Sun Touched Shine, Catch advertorials “to drive further awareness of products, two salons in Brentwood, Calif. — Frank Studio and the Wave, Hair Insurance and Sydney Smooth will be so customers can get more product information,” said Frank 18, a salon geared toward teens. sold in food, drug and mass stores, including Wal-Mart, Nelson. The company will also have online advertis- — M.E. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006

The HBA Report WWD.COM Pert Plus Readies for Second Coming

By Rachel Brown fi rm Prophet, warned that turning around a brand is not pos- sible with promotion alone. “It can’t just be a new marketing an ghost brand Pert Plus be brought back to life? Phoenix- campaign and suddenly it is new again,” he said. “Oldsmobile Cbased Innovative Brands believes so and, backed by Najafi tried to continually reposition and change the advertising Cos., a private equity firm with more than $1.1 billion in as- and marketing around, but they never changed the product, sets, has the wherewithal to do something about it. The com- and it always failed.” pany bought Pert Plus in July for an undisclosed sum from Jacober did not rule out addressing other aspects of Pert Procter & Gamble and now is hatching plans to jump-start the Plus. He said altering the packaging “is on the table,” but im- two-in-one shampoo and conditioner brand, which is often plied it is a delicate proposition because the green bottles lumped into the ghost category given its dearth of promotion- with white lettering are “very recognizable.” al support in the past few years. In surveys of some 10,000 people and focus groups, Joe Jacober, chief executive offi cer of Innovative Brands, Innovative Brands found that two-thirds of Pert Plus users, declared the ghost label is coming off early next year. who are 60 percent male, report it is their primary choice. Innovative Brands plans to roll out a full-scale marketing The line of products, which has an average retail price of $3 campaign, perhaps one of the most aggressive Pert Plus has each, currently consists of 40 stockkeeping units and six vari- ever experienced, with radio, TV and print ads. eties of Pert Plus, including dandruff, kids and light, medium “We are going to go back to consumers and talk about why and deep conditioning. A Kmart spokesman said, “Pert Plus Pert is an important part of their hair care regimen,” said is a trustworthy brand still popular with many Kmart custom- Jacober. “We are turning over every rock to make sure we are ers.” Jacober is looking for increased promotional activity — going to get the message out to consumers.” including bonus packs, displays and circular ads — to drive Although the details are still being hashed out, the mar- sales. He noted that one retailer was able to increase Pert keting message is expected to stick to what originally made Pert Plus shampoos. Plus sales 16 percent in 24 weeks with targeted promotions. Pert Plus attractive: that it’s an easy-to-use, two-in-one prod- Introduced in 1986, Jacober described Pert Plus as the fi rst uct. Jacober argues that straightforward brands like Pert Plus, two-in-one hair product available on a “national basis.” Its even though they retain a substantial audience, have become overshadowed with sales have tailed off since the brand hit its peak in the Nineties — becoming the top the spotlight moving toward professional salon items. selling shampoo in the U.S. In 2001, P&G shifted its attention to global brands follow- “We are going to make sure that the industry understands this is a niche,” said ing its acquisition of Clairol and effectively ended Pert Plus marketing about three Jacober. “There is a small percentage of the population — maybe 10 to 15 percent in years ago. Jacober would not disclose the exact sales fi gures, citing an agreement the category — who want simple, basic cleaning that gives great hair.” with P&G not to discuss revenues. Innovative Brands is currently scouting advertising fi rms, and is uncertain if Innovative Brands, which also picked up the deodorant brand Sure from P&G in it will rely on a celebrity spokesperson. Past advertising efforts by P&G featured September, is not in a hurry to ramp up Pert Plus sales. Jacober stressed there is no well-known spokespeople, including athletes Mike Piazza, Mia Hamm and Dorothy talk about an “exit strategy,” and Innovative Brands would be satisfi ed with steady Hamill. Andrew Pierce, a senior partner in the New York offi ce of brand consulting 10 to 15 percent year-over-year growth. Dempsey Gives Avon Color Touch-up SNIPPETS elebrity makeup artist Jillian Dempsey is giving Avon’s core color franchise a makeover Cnext year in an attempt to turn the cosmetics giant into a beauty authority, strengthening A BEAUTIFYING INSTITUTE: Last month’s opening of Institute Beauté was its position globally. yet another sign of the move toward more noninvasive procedures in the As part of a multiyear contract that started in August, Dempsey, Avon’s global creative color beauty world. The trend is gaining in popularity, at least according to director, is upgrading color palettes for eye, lip and face shades in the company’s existing color those in attendance at the Upper East Side medi-spa’s opening party, collection. The Spring Style 2007 Sheer Collection marks the fi rst limited-edition color collabo- hosted by André Leon Talley, Tuesday night. Levine wanted to create ration between Avon and Dempsey. The seasonal collection, available for two months, will offer a “one-stop shopping from head to toe” retreat for busy executives. a face powder, brush, lipsticks, lip glosses, nail polish and eye shadows. Dempsey looked to a Ann Caruso, Leila Rose and Celerie Kemble all agree with Levine that sheer palette for inspiration. “I like makeup that’s not complicated and you can apply effort- preventative measures are often a better alternative. “No one wants to lessly. Since I don’t like to spend lots of time looking in the mirror, I like makeup to be a simple go under the knife until they absolutely have to. It’s about staying off process,” said Dempsey. the scary stuff and enjoying yourself in the meantime,” said Kemble. According to company execu- Select items from Avon’s spring collection. Talley is already a regular at the medi-spa and gets the foot refl exology tives, Avon’s color business ex- service. “When I’m stressed, it’s the best release and makes you so ceeds $1 billion. calm, you could almost go to sleep,” said Talley. “We’re stepping up our brand competitiveness by reenergiz- GOODBYE, HELLO: Kevin Mancuso’s namesake salon is closing Nov. 22. ing Avon color, our largest global The hairstylist cited “creative differences” with investors and said he brand in the Avon portfolio,” said was not willing to compromise his vision to meet the demands of others. Jill Scalamandre, senior vice “It’s a big disappointment,” he said. But Mancuso’s already on to Plan B: president of global beauty brands He’s joined forces with Rita Hazan and will be the head style guru at the for Avon. “This aggressive reposi- colorist’s new salon, which celebrated its grand opening Tuesday night. tioning requires innovation. We’ve taken a look at all our color pal- FREQUENT SPA GOERS GET REWARDED: Mary Blackmon, founder of spa- ettes and textures and revamped addicts.com, has come up with a way for spa goers to get rewarded for their it with an eye to being more mod- spa treatments: Frequent SpaMiles. Every time a registered spa-addicts. ern and fashionable.” com customer goes to a spa that partners with the Web site, that person In addition, the entire color will earn spa miles for a spa visit, which can be redeemed on the Web site collection will be repackaged in for full-size, upscale products and other goodies. About 40 manufacturers a global initiative that will begin are participating in the SpaMiles program, including GoSmile, Jane in the U.S. By March, Avon’s color Iredale, Lather and Yonka. Based in Bevery Hills, spa-addicts.com has also collection will be upgraded in the launched a blog, which will report on the spa industry.

U.S., followed by Europe in April THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY and Latin America and Asia in MERCIER’S SECRETS: Makeup artist Laura Mercier celebrated the release September. Avon will soon sport a new look with black packaging as opposed to its traditional blue. of her new book, “The New Beauty Secrets: Your Ultimate Guide to a “We’re keeping the silhouette but giving it sleek, high-shine action with metallic accents,” Flawless Face,” a portfolio of her work, at a launch party at Bergdorf said Claudia Poccia, president of Avon U.S. Beauty and global president of Mark, who added Goodman last week. “I’ve always been very shy about putting my work that the company also sees this as an opportunity to attract new customers to the brand. “This together and taking Polaroid photos on shoots because I didn’t want steps up the level of style and ‘fashionability.’” people feeling uncomfortable,” said Mercier, whose book, published by According to Scalamandre, Avon is considering other partnerships with style experts “to Atria Books, a division of Simon & Schuster, was released this month. help drive Avon’s style brand.” The brand recently signed designer Cynthia Rowley, who will work with Dempsey to develop an exclusive limited-edition collection color line, scheduled to DON’T PASS GLOW: Last week Sephora introduced Monopoly: Sephora launch next fall. Edition, a symbolic nod to playing with makeup instead of real estate. Poccia said there will be a 360-degree marketing plan, which will include print and televi- The game resembles the classic in that bankrupting opponents sion advertising campaign featuring new creative around Avon color. Television will break in remains the ultimate goal. The trip around the board, however, is much March, while print ads will break in April. In addition, the Avon brochure will be redesigned different. Players navigate with game pieces shaped like mirrors, blow- and feature style authorities like Dempsey, who will offer editorial tips and techniques de- dryers and compacts, while landing on beauty-themed properties such signed to educate consumers. More than 15 million lip and eye color samples will also be dis- as Plump Promenade and Lotion Lane. Pictures of a Smashbox eye tributed in March to sales representatives and consumers. Sales representatives will also be shadow trio and Dior mascara, among other beauty brands, lend the given training tools such as DVDs, look books and “Webinars,” to help them communicate with game a feeling of cosmetics reality. What holds the coveted spot of consumers. Although company executives would not comment on advertising expenses, Poccia most expensive property? An antifrizz hair balm from Phyto. Monopoly: said the company signifi cantly increased its ad investments for this initiative. Sephora Edition retails for $45 and is available at Sephora stores and — Michelle Edgar on sephora.com. Beautiful results start here.

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Source: MRI, Spring 2006. Base: women 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

DIOR’S NEW FACE: Change is in store at Christian Dior — in the advertising department, at least. According to sources, after many years of collaborating with Loro Piana to Launch Upholstery MEMO PAD photographer Nick Knight, the French fashion house has tapped Craig McDean to shoot its spring By Alessandra Ilari campaign. The ads will feature model Gemma Ward. Dior offi cials could not be reached for comment. — Miles Socha MILAN — Thanks to a new business unit called Loro Piana Interiors, cash- mere fans can now sit on the luxurious fabric. A PRIVATE READER: Private equity fi rms are continuing their tear in the media world, as After years of dressing their own homes with cashmere, brothers Sergio and Reader’s Digest Association on Thursday agreed to be acquired by a group of investors, led Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who share the chief executive offi cer position at Loro by Ripplewood Holdings, for $2.4 billion. The Pleasantville, N.Y.-based publisher, which Piana, decided to launch a top-quality upholstery collection. The line will bow includes Every Day With Rachael Ray, said it doesn’t know if management changes will in January at the Maison & Objet home furnishings trade fair in Paris. follow. If the deal goes through, it will close by the end of the fi rst half of 2007. A private The collection is made up of 30 different textiles available in 300 colors equity source said the publisher has been undervalued by Wall Street and private equity and includes fl uffy cashmere moquette priced at $1,500 per square meter sees an opportunity to grab a company at a good market value and raise it over the next fi ve retail. It takes two kilograms of pure cashmere to make one square meter. years. “They want to buy it now while it’s cheap and prove that it is here to stay,” said the “People are constantly looking for quality in their lives, which is why we source. A spokesman for Ripplewood declined to comment. saw the opportunity to offer something unique for the home,” said Pier Luigi Last month, Reader’s Digest reported its fi rst-quarter fi scal 2007 revenue was up slightly Loro Piana. “We’re obviously also tapping into our know-how in the textile from last year, to $517 million. The company also is projecting to grow midsingle digits for business.” the full fi scal year. Loro Piana is a cashmere specialist that makes and sells the fi ber for both While the core Reader’s Digest has seen fl at circulation for some time — for the fi rst half, knitwear and wovens. Aside from a namesake clothing line, it makes bags, total circulation was 10,094,286, compared with 10,228,531 for the same period two years scarves, hats and small leather goods. ago — it has seen better success with Every Day With Rachael Ray. That magazine plans to Sales forecasts for the new project were not disclosed, though Loro Piana increase its rate base to 1.3 million from 750,000 with the February issue. said they should be “hefty.” Meanwhile, on the same day, radio giant Clear Channel agreed to a buyout bid from Pierluigi Volonté has been tapped to be general manager of the home private equity investors, led by Bain Capital. The deal values the company at approximately fabrics division, a new post. $27 billion. — Amy Wicks Loro Piana Interiors’ array of products include antistain, water-resistant and washable cashmere, silk, vicuna, linen and cotton, sometimes blended, GUILTY VERDICT: Christopher McCowen was sentenced to life in prison without parole Thursday for in textures such as herringbones, fl at ribs, sharkskin, waffl e and tartan. A the murder and rape of former fashion writer Christa Worthington. His legal team immediately small selection of coordinated leathers also is available. Retail prices for a fi led an appeal and, for the fi rst time, he publicly proclaimed innocence in Barnstable County meter of fabric range from $50 for cottons and linens to $511 for cashmere. Superior Court in Massachusetts. The color chart, divided into fi ve groups, includes gray, coffee brown, The verdict came just a few days after the jury announced a deadlock and subsequently lost its earth tones, pansy blue, mint greens and many red-based shades. Customers third juror for speaking about the deliberations with her jailed boyfriend. The jury agreed Thursday that also can custom-order a specifi c color, which will require an eight-week McCowen, a garbage collector, killed the 46-year-old Worthington in her Cape Cod home in 2002. wait. Superior Court Judge Gary Nickerson sentenced McCowen to three concurrent life sentences without the A box containing swatches and bundles will be available in Loro Piana’s possibility of parole for being convicted of fi rst-degree murder, aggravated rape and aggravated burglary. major fl agships worldwide, along with home furnishings stores and the stu- Prior to the sentencing, McCowen, who chose not to testify during the trial, addressed the dios of interior designers. court saying he was innocent just moments before he was led away in handcuffs. After saying he Future plans include a showroom in Milan and New York. “feels sorry for the victim’s family, her daughter and for her,” he went on to say, “Through this “This project is also a way to further strengthen our relationship with con- whole trial, I have sat here thinking to myself, ‘Why me?’ I know nothing I can say can change sumers — they can call us the tailors of sofas,” said Pier Luigi Loro Piana. your mind….All I can say is I’m an innocent man in this case.” — Rosemary Feitelberg — Alessandra Ilari Fashion of a Different Color at FIT Wyclef Hits Capitol to Push Haiti Bill NEW YORK — Quick, think pink. For By Kristi Ellis fl edgling democratic reforms and destabi- most, the color conjures up images of lize the region, Haitian offi cials warned. feminine frills and romance — ste- WASHINGTON — The world of music, poli- The delegation pressed Congressional reotypical girlish things in the vein of tics and fashion collided on Capitol Hill members to pass legislation introduced Elle Woods in “Legally Blonde.” But Wednesday as high-level Haitian govern- by Rep. Bill Thomas (R., Calif.) that would porno flicks and smut rags? ment officials joined forces with hip-hop enhance the duty free benefi ts for Haiti Halfway across the world, in Japan, musician Wyclef Jean to lobby members of through a 50 percent value-added rule that’s exactly what it suggests: “the Congress to pass a bill enhancing apparel that increases to a 60 percent requirement Japanese cute-girl culture as well as trade benefits for the island nation before in the fi fth year in a lame-duck session in pornography,” explained Valerie Steele, they adjourn for the year. December. But the Thomas bill, which also director of the Museum at FIT. So in Jean, who was born in Haiti, said he contains an extension of trade benefi ts for other words, their pink is our blue. donned his “Joe college” duds — an oxford sub-Saharan African countries, has met At FIT’s new show, “She’s Like a shirt under a pullover with striped tie, plaid strong opposition from textile-state law- Rainbow: Colors in Fashion,” that’s pants and hip leather makers, who succeeded just one of the many lessons to be sneakers — to make the in blocking it from an learned. The exhibit, the third in case for expanding ap- expedited vote in the the museum’s year-old Fashion and parel trade with Haiti. House in September. Textile History Gallery, explores the He was part of a delega- The House members use and symbolism of color in fashion. tion, comprising Haitian argued in a letter to Other fun facts to be gleaned: Red was government offi cials and Republican leaders the color of choice for many European several apparel manu- that the expanded ben- brides until white became de rigueur facturers, who met with efits for Haiti would in the 19th century; purple was the Reps. Charles Rangel (D., allow companies to world’s fi rst artifi cial pigment, and Dresses by Pierre Cardin in front of N.Y.), the incoming chair- use Chinese fabric and blue, now the most popular hue to be a print by Zandra Rhodes. man of the House Ways & Ambassador yarns, which would dis- worn, was once “a second-rate color Means Committee next Raymond place U.S. business in in antiquity.” year, Clay Shaw (R., Fla.), Joseph and Haiti and “devastate” Set against brightly colored wall Jerry Weller (R., Ill.) and his nephew, the U.S. textile industry. hangings made from home decor Sen. Mike DeWine (R., Wyclef Jean. Richard Coles, presi- fabrics and printed table covers, the Ohio). dent of Multitex, an ap- kaleidoscopic items on display range “For me, it’s very important because parel division of Sirius Group, based in from an 18th-century red riding hood what I’m trying to do in the next 10 to 15 Port-au-Prince, Haiti, also would like to see to the green sequined gown — com- years is to get investors excited about Haiti more T-shirts with Made in Haiti labels. plete with the accompanying fox-and- again,” said Jean, whose uncle, Raymond “The provisions within the bill will chiffon stole — Tom Ford used for his Joseph, is the ambassador to Haiti. have a direct and immediate impact on the fall 2004 Gucci fi nale. In all, there are “Apparel is important because it provides woven part of the business and I think that more than 150 garments, textiles and jobs. I’m here lobbying for this bill because we will get 7,000 to 10,000 immediate jobs,” accessories featured. Additions to if we can give 10,000 people jobs instantly, Coles said. He added that Hanesbrands Inc. the museum’s collection, bought spe- it sends a signal to investors that says the and Gildan are two of the largest foreign cifi cally for “She’s Like a Rainbow,” A few exhibit looks, doors are really open for Haiti.” companies sourcing apparel, primarily T- include a pink Yohji Yamamoto coat- including a green Oscar de Haiti, the poorest country in the Western shirts, in Haiti. dress from fall 2005 as well as a 19th- la Renta dress and a purple Hemisphere, has been losing apparel pro- According to Coles, 12 apparel compa- century violet-and-black-striped taf- Yves Saint Laurent gown. duction to China and Central American and nies have shut down in Haiti in the past feta dress. Caribbean countries since the major trading few years, leaving approximately 30 oper- “People are often intimidated by partners around the world removed quotas ating in the country. Coles also has laid off color,” said Elle’s fashion director, Nina Garcia, whose publication spon- on apparel and textile products in 2005. As workers. At its peak, Multitex employed sored the show. “It’s the easiest way to make a statement.” a result, apparel employment in Haiti has 6,000 people and it currently employs 3,700, “She’s Like a Rainbow: Colors in Fashion” is on view until May 5. fallen from a peak of 100,000 jobs to less he said. But he acknowledged it would be — Venessa Lau than 20,000, a change that could threaten an uphill battle in Congress. PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY RON SORINI PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 11 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Boosts Designer Game Plan By David Moin CHESTNUT HILL, Mass. — Bloomingdale’s sells more designer merchandise in this village near Boston than anywhere else except its Manhattan flagship. To secure that niche, Bloomingdale’s last week opened a 189,000-square-foot, three-level unit in the Mall at Chestnut Hill, replacing the 120,000-square-foot store across the street that has been converted to Macy’s. However, that’s just part of a strategy to pump up the designer business at several locations and narrow the gap with the retail leaders in the category, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue. Designer is a $200 million-plus business at Bloomingdale’s, market sources said. With each new door, Bloomingdale’s goes more upscale. There’s an intensifi cation of designer offerings, with labels like Chanel, Giorgio Armani, Louis Vuitton, Akris, Burberry and Ralph Lauren. In addition, there are some fi rsts for Bloomingdale’s, with high-profi le labels not previously carried such as Jimmy Choo shoes or Giorgio Armani cosmetics, as well as an elevated ambience and refi ned fl oor plan. The 330,000-square-foot San Francisco store, opened in September, has a broad designer offering, and the unit in South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, Calif., opening next spring, will launch with “a major designer presentation,” said Michael Gould, chairman and chief executive offi cer. Elsewhere, Bloomingdale’s has been beefi ng up designer assortments in the Aventura and Palm Beach Gardens, Fla., stores, and in Newport Beach, Calif., Gould said. Previously, Bloomingdale’s sold designer merchandise principally at the Manhattan fl agship on 59th Street and in Chestnut Hill, with a smattering of design- er goods or none at other locations. Years ago, there was even a sense that Gould’s Bloomingdale’s in regime wouldn’t be as aggressive on the designer front as that of his predecessor, Chestnut Hill showcases Marvin Traub. Now that seems like ancient history. Burberry and other “Designer is our fourth-strongest business and running very strong,” said Frank designer brands. Doroff, senior executive vice president and general merchandise manager of wom- en’s. “It’s growing faster than we thought.” The three faster-growing categories are contemporary sportswear (said to be a $300 million business at Bloomingdale’s), followed by dresses and bridge, Doroff noted. The Chestnut Hill opening was like a homecoming for Gould, a native Bostonian and a devout Red Sox fan who likes the intimacy of Chestnut Hill, the home of Boston College. “This is a neighborhood store versus San Francisco, which is a colossal downtown urban store,” Gould said. “The Chestnut Hill location has been very successful for us.” The new store is entirely stocked with women’s merchandise. It sells designer, bridge and contemporary ready-to-wear, accessories, coats, furs, special sizes, inti- mate apparel, swimwear, shoes, cosmetics, fi ne jewelry and fragrances. There is a 7,500-square-foot children’s department that feels like a separate shop yet sustains the aura of chic with an array of European imports and designer labels such as Ralph Lauren and True Religion. Bloomingdale’s took over a former Filene’s site, gutted it except for the elevator shafts, relocated the escalators to the center of the space and modernized the en- trances and exterior. Now only Bloomingdale’s is anchoring the Chestnut Hill mall, with the women’s store on one end and a separate 124,000-square-foot home and men’s store on the other. The shopping center is small, and it’s only about a two-minute walk separating the two sites, so Bloomingdale’s anticipates a synergy. The two stores combined are projected to generate more than $110 million in annual There’s an intensifi ed designer accessory presentation at Bloomingdale’s Chestnut Hill. sales, with about two-thirds of that volume produced by the women’s store, market sourc- es said. Bloomingdale’s operates 37 units and has an annual volume of $2.3 billion. four stores in the next few years, including one in the Natick Mall, a regional pow- By rearranging the real estate, “We are able to really give tremendous exposure to erhouse armed with a big budget for renovations and remerchandising to bring in each family of businesses,” Gould said. “We can pick up 20 to 30 percent in some of higher-priced specialty shops and affl uent customers. Neiman’s is also entering the these businesses, considering the kind of presentations they have now.” Natick Mall. The women’s store is running “ahead of plan nicely,’’ Gould said. He would not However, Bloomingdale’s has pumped up its offerings. Designer shops ring the specify volume, but he did say the business has been led perimeter walls of the Chestnut Hill store, such as by cosmetics, shoes and contemporary sportswear, which David Yurman, which has a 30-foot-wide presence Bloomingdale’s calls Y.E.S. The contemporary space has in the center of fi ne jewelry. There’s also a four- grown to 31,000 square feet, from 11,000 in the old space. sided wall of designer sunglasses. Other standouts Designer and New View, consisting of bridge merchandise are the backlit, chandeliered Tahari shop and the and a few designer collections, occupy a total of 28,000 windowed Chanel boutique. Several of the con- square feet, up from 18,000. temporary shops, such as Diane von Furstenberg There has been a designer buildup in Boston and its and Vince, stand out because they have large signs suburbs, an area synonymous with preppy and traditional suspended from the ceiling, as if fl oating. Fresh dressing. Retailers sense there may be a larger audience for fl owers are in cosmetics, and the small silver cone- designer brands and higher prices than previously believed. shaped Christmas trees provide a restrained holi- Last spring, Barneys New York opened a fl agship in Copley day motif. Place in the city’s Back Bay section, about 20 minutes from Armani Collezioni, Akris Punto, Michael Kors Chestnut Hill. Copley Place is remerchandising and bound Collection, Ralph Lauren Collection, Burberry to add designer shops. Saks Fifth Avenue is renovating its London, Tory Burch, Missoni Collection, Lela Rose Copley Place store. Nordstrom is entering the market with Here and left: Contemporary and Matthew Williamson are among the other rtw sportswear at Bloomingdale’s designers sold. Accessories include Chanel, Fendi, Chestnut Hill store has Bottega Veneta, Marc Jacobs, Lambertson Truex, almost tripled in space. Marc Jacobs and Chloé. Among the contemporary lines are Diane von Furstenberg and Vince, and the cosmetic lines include La Prairie, SK II, Lanvin and Estée Lauder. Executives believe they’ve got the jump on the competition, having developed strong loyalty in the region after operating successfully in Chestnut Hill for decades. “We’ve been in the marketplace for 33 years,” said Pat Chadwick, Bloomingdale’s senior vice president and Northeast regional manager. The home store opened in 1973, and fi ve years later, the fashion unit opened. She said Chestnut Hill is most like the 59th Street fl agship in terms of its breadth of designer assortments, and it has other advantages. “I think it’s easy to understand and compartmentalize and not as confusing as some stores have been accused of being.” Aside from designer goods, new stores get fi lled with artwork and are built with wider aisles, around 25 feet, wide entrances and longer sight lines for easier navigation. Bloomingdale’s signature black-trim frames are in many of the in-store shops, and they are particularly prevalent in the Chestnut Hill store, considered Bloomingdale’s most feminine and residential in character and perhaps its most visually appealing. There are large photo scrims depicting Boston landmarks, mannequins positioned on illuminated platforms, shiny marble fl oors, a luminous, laser-cut ceiling, a projection wall showing fashion shows, a mirrored escalator that from the side looks like a giant black X and artwork by local artists. A huge mobile hovers over the escalators. “The whole store reads black and cream and has a lot of framed vendor installa- tions,” said Jack Hruska, executive vice president of creative services. “Chestnut Hill does have similarities to San Francisco, but it’s much more intimate, smaller and sophisticated.” 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 WWD.COM Pucci Honors Namesake for 60th Neiman’s Catalogue By Luisa Zargani MILAN — Pucci will celebrate its 60th anniversary next year with the launch in February of a lim- Offers Fath’s Legacy ited-edition collection of four iconic designs from the company’s archives that were personal favor- ites of Emilio Pucci. By Rosemary Feitelberg “There is such a strong interest for vintage, so we thought, Why shouldn’t we remake some of our original pieces ourselves?” said eiman Marcus is selling a piece of history by offering volumes Laudomia Pucci, image director for the brand and daughter of the de- Nof Jacques Fath’s sketches and three couture dresses for $3.5 signer. “There is a great momentum with the new collections designed million in its holiday catalogue, but how those items got there is a by Matthew Williamson, but we also wanted to underscore the roots of story in itself. the brand and to wholly re-create the spirit of those times.” Fath died in 1954, and his widow, Genevieve, closed the house The four pieces, originally designed in the mid-Sixties, will be two years later, but held onto 3,488 sketches spanning from 1948 launched for spring and will be labeled Collectibles: a silk jer- to 1956. When she was in her 90s, she turned them over to a fam- sey long-sleeved dress, a cotton shantung shirtdress, a silk ily friend. About 10 years ago, Rita Watnik, owner of Lily et Cie, jersey romper and a silk twill handbag in the shape of a a vintage store in Beverly Hills, acquired the 26 Italian leather- jewelry box. Prices range from $1,700 for the handbag to bound books containing the sketches. After he had been diagnosed $2,200 for the Bubbles dress. with leukemia, Fath, anticipating a horrible death, drew enough Pucci, which is now owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy sketches to carry the line for two years after his death, Watnik Louis Vuitton, will produce from 200 to 300 units of each said. The designer was in the habit of drawing the same dress from piece, marked with a special “Emilio Pucci — Florence, fi ve different angles, she added. Italy” tag. In a nod to the Pucci atelier tradition, the labels Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute will be color-coordinated depending on the fabric: green of Technology, said, “At the end of the Forties and into the Fifties, Pucci lettering for silk items, blue for cotton items. “We’ve called Fath was the heir to Dior. designs. back old seamstresses to use the same original techniques “Fath was a very interesting and intriguing person. His clothes my father employed,” explained Pucci, noting how each piece is were very beautiful and glamorous and he himself was very beauti- identical to its archive original. Case in point: The prints are placed ful and glamorous,” she said. “To on each piece so the pattern seamlessly covers the whole garment. me, he was in a way like Thierry A Jacques Fath sketch Pucci said she chose designs that had the most meaning for her father Mugler — very theatrical, very to be auctioned by while recapturing the spirit of those years. “The silk jersey dress marked femme fatale and one of the de- Neiman Marcus. a sense of freedom for women, which was very important at the time, signers with a cut-short story.” while the cotton of the chemise dress, which my father always had in Watnik, who is widely known his collections with different necklines, goes back to my father’s war for her vintage finds and ce- uniforms,” said Pucci. lebrity clientele such as Karl The jersey dress features the Bubbles print in its original beig- Lagerfeld, Demi Moore, Renée es, taupes and pinks and comes with an optional belt covered in a Zellweger and Mary-Kate and Swarovski crystal fi nish. The shirtdress is made with a blend of cot- Ashley Olsen, said she received ton and shantung, which adds a smooth sheen, with a print called a $4.1 million offer for the Fath Fiocchetti (little bows) and smaller fl owers in brown, black, periwin- memorabilia not too long ago. But kle and gold. The romper, said Pucci, is “a triumph of femininity,” a she declined because the inter- symbol of one of the iconic women of the time, model Verushka. ested party, whom she declined “Here is the body as a starting point, with the beach glam- to name, wanted to take apart the our, the Mediterranean colors, the long-haired, barefoot [Pucci collection. “I thought it would be woman],” she said. The two-in-one item, a shirt and mini shorts combo, a great travesty. I would rather features a deep V neck, slightly puffed sleeves and a double-V seaming on take way less money and make the chest — a favorite of the late designer. The Chiave, or key print, is in a lavender, sure the buyer keeps the collec- black and gray palette. tion together,” Watnik said. The collection will be available at Pucci boutiques and selected specialty stores worldwide. The volumes were Each garment will have its own different package in a fl at box with a matching print lining and believed to have been a label on the box indicating the reproduction date. lost for many years and “What better way to mark the anniversary than with a product that can be worn?” asked Pucci, subsequently were not while remarking that it could also become a long-term project. “This is a beautiful homage to the featured in the “Jacques history of the brand and to the vision of its founder, whose designs continue to be modern.” Fath Les Annes 50” ex- hibition that was held at the Palais Galliera in 1993, she said. Unlike some of his peers, Fath kept me- Thakoon Goes Classic With Sunglasses ticulous archives of his sketches and illustra- By Jennifer Hirshlag tions, instead of giving them to clients who hakoon has set its sights on the eyewear business. The ready-to-wear label designed by purchased the dress Genevieve and Jacques Fath square-dancing TThakoon Panichgul in New York has unveiled a collection of sunglasses. The collection rep- as was the norm at that with Jean Desses, Pierre Balmain and others. resents the first step into the accessories category for the two-and-a-half-year-old brand and time, Watnik said. CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up, following its collaboration with Nine West this fall on The Paris-based designer built a following among Greta Garbo footwear, handbags and gloves. and American sirens such as Rita Hayworth and Ava Gardner. “The collaboration with Nine West opened He also befriended Stanley Marcus after receiving the Neiman up this whole other world for me,” said Marcus award from him in 1949 — a footnote that appealed to Watnik Panichgul. “It made me crave working on other when mulling over whether to offer the Fath sketches to the retailer. products.” Fath later invited Marcus to visit him and his wife at Chateau de The sunglass collection, which is being pro- Corbeville outside of Paris. Despite being in the midst of designing duced in collaboration with Italian eyewear his fall collection, he welcomed the legendary retailer with a square fi rm Cult and distributed in-house, will launch dance, where Fath and guests such as Pierre Balmain and Jean exclusively with Barneys New York in February. Desses turned out in head-to-toe cowboy attire. The hoedown also There are plans to broaden distribution to gave Marcus the chance to meet Fath’s international clients. Jeffrey in New York and Selfridges and Harrods When Neiman Marcus asked Watnik for a proposal for its holi- in London, among other stores, in May. Retail day catalogue, the Beverly Hills retailer said she liked the idea of prices will range from $280 to $385. putting up the Fath archives, due in part to the designer’s link to Panichgul said, for now, he is keeping the Thakoon sunglasses. the company. Both parties have teamed up before and the retailer collection small and exclusive to focus on de- once approached Watnik about opening a Lily et Cie in-store shop, veloping a signature look. The debut assort- but she declined. Asked if it was diffi cult to decide to part with it, ment of fi ve silhouettes, which is expected to Watnik said: “Nothing is diffi cult to let go of if you know the condi- grow to around 10 styles going forward, re- tions under which you are selling them are correct and good.” volves around classic shapes like oversized A buyer might be drawn by the tax deduction incentive. “If you frames and aviators that are updated through agree to loan it to a museum for 10 percent of any given year for 10 unique material treatments, like friction-bound years, you get a tax deduction at the end of the 10 years for the full acetates and matte metallics combined with value. When you do that, the institution is responsible for conser- friction-bound acetates. vation. The likelihood is they really won’t use them [due to limited “Obviously, there are a lot of retro styles that gallery space]. There are also a load of economic opportunities in have become current again,” said Panichgul. terms of publishing and things like that,” said Watnik. “But I don’t want to do retro just for retro sake. We want to fi nd ways to make retro modern.” But the $3.5 million price tag is hefty enough to make some Panichgul said he hopes to add ophthalmics to the line in the future. He is also exploring pause. Steele, for one, will be keeping her eyes peeled to see who leather goods. buys what Watnik described as “nice for a starter kit.” “We are at a point in the life of the company where we are ready to expand,” said Maria But Watnik isn’t bidding adieu to all things Fath. She still owns Tomei Borromeo, Thakoon’s president. “We are looking at creative ways to not necessarily dif- 100 pieces of the designer’s fashion-related art, including textiles fuse the brand, but expand and fuel the ready-to-wear.” he created for scarves to give to customers. PHOTOS BY PAVEL ANTONOV PAVEL PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 13 WWD.COM

600 other guests on Wednesday night for a Ray-Ban party at Manhattan’s Irving Plaza. The party was held to celebrate the relaunch of its original Wayfarer sunglass. Rock held court on the main fl oor, where he Fashion Scoops helped curate a gallery of images of musicians wearing the frames, many of which he recently took. But it was the vintage shots that fascinated Sims. JIMI CELESTE PHOTO BY HIGH TIMES: Couture may be waning, but the Chambre Syndicale continues to encourage “I love the picture of Bob Dylan,” she said from the certain ready-to-wear designers to join the high-fashion party. Boudicca, Cathy Pill and Gustavo second-fl oor VIP lounge. Lins are among a half-dozen new guest members invited to show during Paris couture week in Barton, who mixed her Wayfarers with Chanel, said January, along with Lefranc Ferrant, Nicolas Le Cauchois and Gérald Watelet. The designers join that, while she loved the sunglasses, her real reason the likes of ongoing invitees Adam Jones, Anne Valérie Hash, Martin Margiela and Richard René, for fl ying from North Carolina, where she is shooting according to the Chambre. “Don’t Fade Away,” was to see Eagles of Death Metal perform at the event. VALENTINO’S CLOSE-UP: Recent consolidation of Marzotto family shares in Valentino Fashion Group has led to increased speculation in Europe that the Marzotto clan is preparing to sell THE PRICE OF INSPIRATION: Since Belstaff is working Molly off some of Valentino FG’s assets — mainly Valentino. European press reports have cited PPR on a collection inspired by Steve McQueen for the fall Sims and as a possible buyer. Earlier this month, PPR chairman François-Henri Pinault said for the fi rst 2007 season, it must have seemed like a blessing Mischa time that the French luxury group was interested in acquisitions in Italy. Valentino’s president, to the design team when the actor’s original Belstaff Barton however, is denying any plans to sell the Rome-based fashion house. Traveling in New York, Trialmaster jacket was part of an auction at Bonhams Matteo Marzotto said a sale of Valentino was “useless fantasy.” PPR declined comment. A & Butterfi elds in Los Angeles. The sale, which took source close to the company said PPR was not eyeing Valentino. place on Saturday, was arranged by the late McQueen’s wife, Barbara McQueen Brunsvold. The Malenotti family, which owns Belstaff, put in a $32,000 bid, which was accepted. One can THREE OF A KIND: Carolina only hope that next fall’s McQueen-inspired jackets will be less pricy. Herrera and her daughter- muse, Carolina Herrera ALL BLUE: Usually, nothing would happen if three women were to wear various shades of Jr., fl ew into Southern blue-striped clothing to the same meeting. But for public relations and social gurus Vanessa California last week to Weiner von Bismarck, Carrie Phillips and Laura Woodard, the outfi t coincidence led to a brand host two opening parties consulting, p.r. and marketing company, specializing in the contemporary and moderate for the company’s new markets. Its name? Blue Stripe. The new fi rm’s offi cial start day is Dec. 1, when the trio boutiques in the region, begins working with clients such as Mike & Chris, Anlo Jeans, Dessous, Bulga Bags and Carolina Herrera New AKA New York. Weiner von Bismarck and Phillips, both of whom will continue to head up York on Melrose Place Bismarck Phillips, will concentrate on development and strategic planning, while Woodard, the in Los Angeles and CH former p.r. director at Citizens of Humanity, will be handling day-to-day operations and client at South Coast Plaza in relations. Says Woodard, “We’re taking a streamlined, clean approach to developing these Costa Mesa. Vogue and brands that have been largely overlooked in the past.” socials Crystal Lourd and Stephanie Murray joined GOOD GRACES: Tommy Hilfi ger is having a Grace Kelly moment in Paris. Not only did the the Herreras in hosting American designer pen the introduction for a new photo book about the late Princess of the soiree for the Carolina Monaco, published by Editions PHYB, but he’s behind a forthcoming exhibit of 25 never- Herrera boutique on Nov. before-seen images of Kelly that belong to the Magnum photo agency. After being displayed PHOTO BY DONATO SARDELLA/WIREIMAGE DONATO PHOTO BY 13. The in-store event, Carolina Herrera, Carolina Herrera Jr. and Tara Subkoff. at the Galerie 75 Faubourg from Nov. 25 to 29, six of the signed photos will be auctioned to which benefi ted breast benefi t the Princess Grace of Monaco Foundation. cancer charity Couture Cares, drew actresses Ginnifer Goodwin, Gabrielle Union, Angie Harmon and Tracee Ellis Ross, as SPACE RACE: Tapping into fashion’s fl irtation with futurism, French catalogue giant La well as designer Tara Subkoff. “I always feel like Audrey Hepburn when I wear Herrera,” said Redoute is to unveil a collection by Sixties pioneer André Courrèges for spring. Dubbed Ross, who went to college with the designer’s other daughter, Patricia Lansing. “They bring “Couture Future,” the red-and-white capsule line includes swimwear, accessories and cotton back the mystery that is femininity.” basics such as a trapeze skirt and a sleeveless dress that evoke a contemporary take on Four days later, the O.C. social set joined mother and daughter for a soiree at the CH Courrèges codes. Prices for the collection, to be released in early December, will range from store, honoring the Pacifi c Symphony. The boutique features framed portraits of Herrera Jr. about $40 to $200. throughout. More intriguingly, one of the store’s sales staff is also named Carolina Herrera. “There are three Carolina Herrera’s here,” the designer’s daughter exclaimed. HIRST’S HOARD: The far-from-retiring Damien Hirst will take a backstage role for ALL IN THE FAMILY: Eric Bergère has gone all ages. At least, he has for Cyrillus, the family his next exhibition. The controversial artist clothing chain and catalogue owned by French retail giant PPR, which tapped Bergère to has turned curator and will be exhibiting design a capsule collection for women, men and children, updating its classic style. Bergère’s works from his private art collection, spring 2007 offering includes fl aring double-layer skirts for grown-ups and children alike. “Murderme,” at London’s Serpentine While designing for little ones is new for Bergère, he said the front rows of the recent Paris Gallery from Nov. 25. Called “In the shows offered plenty of inspiration. “There were all these baby-doll dresses, very short,” he darkest hour there may be light,” the show recalled. “Women are coming back to their childhoods.” Meanwhile, Bergère also continues to (unsurprisingly) refl ects Hirst’s predilection design several collections for the Japanese market, including a new line of shirts in Provençal for the darker side of life. It includes works fabrics in collaboration with Souleiado. such as Sean Landers’ painting of a grim group of clowns at sea in a dinghy, called NIGHT VISION: Rock ’n’ roll is still alive, according to legendary music photographer Mick Rock, “Red Flag Situation,” and Andy Warhol’s A Sean Landers work from Hirst’s collection. but he’s not so sure about its ability to revolutionize fashion in the way that it used to. “With “Little Electric Chair.” all the information that is out there these days, everything gets absorbed too quickly,” he A number of the exhibits, which span explained. “There’s no time for gestation.” painting, sculpture, photography and installation, are the spoils of swapping pieces with his fellow Rock, who cited the Yeah Yeah Yeah’s Karen O as the most fashionable woman in music Young British Artists Tracey Emin and Sarah Lucas as their careers were on the rise. Hirst later today, joined Mischa Barton, Molly Sims, Piper Perabo, Jimmy Fallon, Norman Reedus and about acquired works by the likes of Warhol and Jeff Koons when his own creations started to pay off. Women’s Retail Apparel Prices Drop in October Fendi Hits India MILAN — Fendi will inaugurate its first store in By Evan Clark infl ation had abated got what they were looking for in the Mumbai, India, on Friday. October numbers. Silvia Venturini Fendi, accessories director and WASHINGTON — Retail prices on women’s apparel fell a Prices on all goods and services slid 0.5 percent and so- men’s wear designer, and chief executive offi cer seasonally adjusted 1.9 percent in October, though prices are called “core” prices, which exclude food and energy, rose Michael Burke will cut the ribbon on the new store, still up 0.6 percent for the year so far, the Labor Department just 0.1 percent, the smallest increase since February. which is housed inside the Taj Mahal Hotel. reported Thursday in the Consumer Price Index. “It’s good news,” said J.P. Morgan Chase & Co. econo- The 1,300-square-foot store replicates the look of Price increases in women’s apparel this year — there mist James Glassman. “It means that these infl ation pres- the company’s other units, with an airy mood inlaid have been four months with at least a 1 percent uptick sures aren’t really there and an awful lot of what you’ve with dark wood fi xtures, that was designed by ar- — indicate stores had pricing power they don’t seem to been seeing is related to energy.” chitect Peter Marino. have retained in October. Headed by chairman Ben Bernanke, the Federal The shop will carry furs, ready-to-wear, bags, “It appears from our sample that items are being clear- Reserve Board keeps a close watch on infl ation and will luggage, footwear, small leather goods, sunglasses anced earlier than usual,” said Malinda Harrell, an ana- raise interest rates, slowing economic growth, if prices and costume jewelry. lyst at the Labor Department. “Normally, we show some climb too swiftly. The same evening, Fendi will host a gala din- increases, but we’re decreasing this year and we have “The fact that energy prices in particular are down ner at the Taj Mahal Palace for some 200 guests. some big sales, which is kind of early for fall and winter.” and that we’re not seeing increases in infl ation else- According to a spokesman, the party decor will Suits and separates, which make up about 53 percent where is defi nitely good news for holiday spending,” said refl ect the similarities between Italy and India in of the women’s index, led the decline for the month with Scott Hoyt, director of consumer economics at Moody’s terms of architecture, nobility and art. a 3.5 percent drop, while dresses were down 1.1 percent Economy.com. “That said, we have major weights on con- A charity auction for the National Institute of and outerwear rallied with a 2.7 percent gain. sumers right now in the weakness in housing markets, Fashion Technology of Mumbai will take place dur- Comparing October with a year earlier, women’s ap- slower job growth than we had six, 12 months ago, record- ing the dinner. For the occasion, Fendi designed parel prices advanced 1.2 percent as suits and separates high fi nancial obligations and debt burdens.” fi ve exclusive handbags, which are entirely hand- posted a 2.3 percent increase, dresses were up 6.5 per- Accordingly, Hoyt predicted consumer spending over embroidered. cent and outerwear fell 3.5 percent. the holidays would be good, but not quite as good as the — Alessandra Ilari On the broader front, economists hoping for a sign that last couple of years. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 WWD.COM DKNY Offers Full Range in Japan

By Tsukasa Furukawa The DKNY TOKYO — DKNY has opened its first flagship in fl agship in Japan here offering its full range of women’s and Tokyo. men’s wear, as well as home goods and the Pure DKNY line. The store is located on “Cat Street,” a ris- ing fashion street that runs through upscale Omotesando and adjacent Harajuku, which are popular with young people and across the Omotesando Boulevard. It is the 22nd DKNY fl ag- ship in Asia and 55th worldwide, according to Donna Karan Japan here. The Tokyo fl agship, designed by architect Bonetti Kozerski, features a unique facade with a huge neon DKNY logo that shines at night. The store has three- and-a-half fl oors — two fl oors and a loft-style semi- fl oor for women’s and one basement fl oor for men’s, the season are presented. The second fl oor is for with a total space of about 6,500 square feet. women’s collections, with half devoted to DKNY The store is expected to bolster DKNY’s brand Jeans. As in the New York fl agship, there are three image as well as sales. DKNY sales in Japan are video screens on one wall that run images of new currently in the range of 7 billion yen at retail an- designs and styles. There is an artistic bench chair nually, or $60.3 million at current exchange, ac- made of glued-together newspapers designed and cording to Japanese press reports, while those of produced by Belgian artist Charles Kasin. The com- Donna Karan Collection or Donna Karan New York plete collection of accessories — from bags and hats are reportedly 3 billion yen, or $25.9 million. Both to eyewear and watches — also is offered. There collections are sold in more than 100 outlets, most also is a limited-edition collection of exclusive “Cat Gap’s Net Drops 10.8%, of them shop-in-shops in department stores but in- Street” merchandise that includes mouton bags. cluding two directly operated stores in Japan. Donna Karan Japan, which was acquired by The Tokyo fl agship, modeled after DKNY’s Onward Kashiyama Co. in 1992, imports the Donna main New York store, is designed, as one DKJ ex- Karan New York line from the American company. Cites Sagging Old Navy ecutive put it, “to bring New York to Tokyo.” Also, DKJ is the master licensee in Japan for the The concept of the Tokyo fl agship as well as the DKNY label and sells both locally manufactured Continued from page one products offered, it was explained, refl ect the de- and imported DKNY products here. the market with our Gap (Product) Red campaigns, but signer’s philosophy of life. There is an abundance For the women’s line, skirts run about 30,000 we know it will take several seasons of compelling mes- of natural things — stairs and fl oors in oak and yen, or $260 at current exchange; jackets, from saging and product to rebuild our traffic,” Pressler said sunlight streaming even into the basement fl oor. 40,000 yen, or $345, to 50,000 yen, or $430, and coats, on the call. Pure DKNY, which manifests the designer’s from 70,000 yen, or $603, to 80,000 yen, or $690. In a statement, Pressler said third-quarter results lifestyle of easy comfort, is found on the half- The basement fl oor is exclusively for men’s “refl ect that each brand is at a different stage in its turn- fl oor, and ranges from home wear and bed linens wear and accessories. Oak wood stairs lead into around. We are pleased with the solid performance at to pillows and bags, in cotton, silk, cashmere and streams of natural sunlight and past a large photo Banana Republic and continued progress each month of other natural materials. The line, which has been artwork of Times Square that symbolizes New the quarter at Gap brand; however, Old Navy’s results were brought to Japan for the fi rst time, is expected to York’s dynamism and energy. The fl oor presents a disappointing.” fi nd a growing market here. DKNY Men line of men’s wear and accessories, a For the three months ended Oct. 28, net income fell to The fi rst fl oor is positioned as “main presenta- DKNY Jeans line of men’s wear and accessories $189 million, or 23 cents a diluted share, from $212 million, tion,” where the latest collection and key colors for and a Pure DKNY segment of men’s wear. or 24 cents, in the year-ago period. Sales were fl at at $3.86 billion. Total same-store sales de- creased 5 percent, compared with a 7 percent decrease in the same period last year. By brand, comps were down 7 New York & Co. Net Doubles percent domestically at Gap and Old Navy and up 3 percent at By Jeanine Poggi better aligned with the desires of our customers, Banana Republic North America. and this allowed us to achieve improved sell- Internationally, comps declined 6 ew York & Co. Inc. said on Thursday that through rates,” Richard Crystal, chairman and percent. Nthird-quarter earnings more than doubled, chief executive offi cer, said in a conference call. For the nine-month period, aided by better sell-through rates and disciplined “Also, our new leadership design and merchan- earnings were down 27.9 percent inventory and expense management. dising has begun to impact the business positively to $559 million, or 66 cents a di- For the three months ended Oct. 28, net income as full-fl oor sets delivered mid-August were much Paul luted share, from $775 million, or rose 130.9 percent to $9.6 million, or 16 cents improved over those of the spring-summer deliv- Pressler 86 cents a share, in last year’s pe- a diluted share, from $4.2 million, or 7 cents, in eries.” riod. Sales were down slightly to the same year-ago quarter; the consensus among During the quarter, the women’s specialty ap- $11.01 billion from $11.2 billion. Wall Street analysts was for earnings of 15 cents parel chain launched a national marketing cam- “Although we believe we’ve made improvements in Old a share. Sales for the quarter grew 6.5 percent paign featuring celebrities Ellen Pompeo and Navy’s product and store experience over the past sev- to $270.9 million from $254.4 million, while total Patrick Dempsey of the television show “Grey’s eral months, traffi c trends unexpectedly deteriorated in company same-store sales were up 0.5 percent, Anatomy.” The retailer also opened 20 New York October, making it diffi cult to clear fall product,” Pressler compared with a decline of 3.1 percent last year. & Co. doors, remodeled 12 locations and opened said on the call. For the nine months, earnings fell 41.5 percent six new JasmineSola stores. During a subsequent question-and-answer session with to $22.1 million, or 37 cents a diluted share, from The company expects fourth-quarter earnings analysts, Cynthia Harris, Gap president, said the retailer $37.9 million, or 66 cents, last year. Sales increased in the range of 37 cents to 46 cents a diluted share. is engaged in a long-term strategy. And although the Gap 3.1 percent to $802.9 million from $778.9 million. For fi scal 2006, the company predicts earnings be- nameplates have “disappointed customers over many sea- “Throughout the quarter our assortments were tween 74 cents and 83 cents per diluted share. sons, the third quarter showed positive indicators,” espe- cially in women’s wear. Regarding the retailer’s earnings guidance, manage- ment originally expected full-year earnings in the range of $1.08 to $1.12 a share, based on the deceleration of sales at Old Navy in October. Since sales have continued to lag Wet Seal Turns Profi t in Third Quarter at Old Navy into this month, coupled with a slower turn- et Seal Inc. on Thursday reported a third- For the nine-month period, the loss narrowed to around pace at Gap brand, the company is revising its Wquarter profi t compared with a loss last year $6.9 million, or 10 cents a diluted share, from a loss guidance to $1.01 to $1.06 a share for the year. as consumers responded positively to merchan- of $26.7 million, or $1.20, last year. Sales rose 10.7 per- Shares of Gap closed down 1.1 percent on Thursday to dise offerings through the fall season. cent to $397.9 million from $359.4 million. $19.80 and continued to fall in after-market activity, shed- For the three months ended Oct. 28, net income “I am pleased with the results we achieved for ding 2.2 percent in the hour after the bell rang. increased to $2.4 million, or 2 cents a diluted both brands. At Wet Seal, our summer offering One bright spot on the quarterly report was cash fl ow. share, which is against a loss of $6.5 million, or 14 was powerful and was followed by a fall selling Byron Pollitt, executive vice president and chief fi nancial cents, in the year-ago period. season that is exceeding our expectations,” Joel offi cer, said on the conference call that, “despite several The results included $5.6 million in noncash Waller, chief executive offi cer, said in a statement. quarters of challenging top-line results, we have delivered stock compensation expenses and $100,000 in inter- “At Arden B., new collections provided strength healthy, free cash fl ow. Because of this, we are now com- est costs. Excluding these items, income was $8.1 in sales that we have not seen in this business for fortable reducing our minimum cash target to $1.5 billion, million, or 8 cents a diluted share. Last year’s loss of some time.” and we will continue to revisit this target periodically.” $6.5 million was due to $2.5 million in stock charges The young women’s apparel retailer said it ex- Pollitt said the company expects to “deploy excess cash and $5.7 million in interest charges. Sales for the pects a solid holiday selling season, and predicts according to the same three priorities we have previously quarter rose 10.8 percent to $143.3 million from fourth-quarter earnings in the range of 9 to 12 cents outlined. First, investment in the business; second, in in- $129.3 million, while total same-store sales jumped a share, including stock option expenses. creasing our dividend, and third, for share repurchases.” 7.3 percent on top of a 46.6 percent gain last year. — J.P. WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2006 15 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

Hause of Howe , a leader in the upscale men’s market has several exciting opportunities at its Huntington Beach, CA headquarters. 57th St. - Full Floor - 3000 ft. Girls Soho Penthouse live / work skylights Sportswear/Dresses Bryant Park Duplex - All Great Deals General Merchandise Manager Trendy established 4-16 clothing man- Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 Oversee and manage the merchandising and production ufacturer seeking representation in all MISSY-KNITS regional markets. Must have strong activities for the company. relationship w/ major national/ regional • 5 years Retail Buying or Wholesale Merch/Production exp. GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO JOIN OUR TEAM department and specialty stores. Mini- Showrooms & Lofts • Degree in business, clothing or textiles/equivalent work mum of 5 years experience. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS exp. Please e-mail/fax resume to: Great ’New’ Office Space Avail SOURCING COORDINATOR - Candidate should have vast [email protected]/213-749-4401 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 • Knowledge of premium market. knowledge of fabrications & garment construction required from ATTN: JACK Designer Tops pre-production thru final production. Work closely with Design & PROFESSIONAL SALES Merch Dept, as well as follow up w/overseas offices & factories. LADIES WOVEN TEXTILES Responsible for the development and execution of concept Leading Chinese woven textile supplier through completion in wovens, knits, sweaters, and seeking professional sales to expand CAD - Must be proficient in Photoshop Illustrator (knowledge its business in the US. Candidates blazers/outerwear. of Primavision a plus) exp. required on technical sketches, be must have extensive contacts; possess • 5+ years of design. solid product knowledge to bring in • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. able to construct y/d stripes, plaids/ prints & place in repeat. immediate sales. Please send CV to: [email protected] & Contact Designer Bottoms SALES - Min 5 yrs exp self-starter w/proven track record in Knits. Jennifer (212) 221-1398 for an appt. Research and design for the premium market regarding € EXCELLENT BENEFITS € SALES DIRECTOR color, denim & non-denim fabrics, style, trends, product mix E-mail: [email protected] or Fax: 212-382-1469 Rapidly growing designer womenswear company seeks sophisticated, highly PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and price points, fit and finishes. aggressive & motivated Sales Director • 3+ years Design exp. Emphasis on men’s contemporary looking to grow and prosper. Must have PRODUCTIONS denim/sportswear market. Operations Manager solid high-end retail relationships, All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Technical Designer High end mid size Acc manufacturer excellent communication and follow- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. • College degree in Fashion or Design/ equivalent work exp. seeks hands on exec to oversee all up skills as well as a strong sense of back office functions (data entry,cust style and and love of beautiful clothes. If you would like to be part of the apparel GREAT OPPORTUNITY serv, inventory ctrl, factory personnel Must have a minimum of 5 years PATTERNS, SAMPLES, TO JOIN OUR TEAM management etc). Must have min 5yrs experience and enjoy working in a company of choice, Send resume to: Operations exp plus full command of fast-paced entrepreneurial environment. PRODUCTIONS [email protected] EDI & Dept Store regulations. A proven Please e-mail resume to: Full service shop to the trade. A leading Dress Co. seeks a track record in a leadership position [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. AA/EOE TECHNICAL DESIGNER with for MFG, prof attitude with exec verbal a min. 5 yrs exp. in dresses. & written communication skills a must. No travel req. Would interface w/ Must be knowledgeable of dom and foreign production. CHILDREN’S DESIGN ASSISTANT dresses cut on bias, beadwork, Email resume w/ salary req to: Sales Executive Seeking a detail-oriented, technically garment construction, fittings, [email protected] Bridge Outerwear COMPUTER advanced individual with a great work graded specs and detailed Offering exciting oppty for motivated ethic to join our fun, fast-paced team. QUALITY professional to launch a designer ARTIST Illustrator a must. Fax: (212) 944-5333 corrections. Tech. Packages, outerwear line in the Bridge market. Major Childrenswear Company seeks a good communication skills ASSURANCE Must have a strong understanding of talented & experienced Girls Artist to Designer $100-125K Min. 4 yrs exp in and proficiency in Excel and Quality minded person needed with customer service needs, possess excel- work in Illustrator & Photoshop. Must denim or non-denim Jr. sportswear. experience in factory certifications, lent interpersonal and communication be able to draw flats, create prints, Well known licensed co. Call: 973-564- Illustrator are a must. fabric and garment testing procedures, skills with the ability to multitask. plaids, appliques and embroideries. 9236 or Email: [email protected] and quality control standards. Must be Min 5 yrs exp req’d. Please email detail oriented. Will oversee quality Admin. Assistant Min 2 years experience in Girls appa- resumes to: [email protected] rel. Need to see a strong portfolio that €EXCELLENT BENEFITS € team in Shanghai office. Knowledge Energetic team player able to handle of garment construction necessary. fast paced multi-tasking environment includes boards. Good working condi- Merchandiser tions plus benefits. Please e-mail your resume to: Must be computer literate. Knowledge with rapidly growing int’l retail and of Mandarin helpful. SALES PERSON wholesale company, loc’d in Brooklyn. Email resumes to: Asst. Merchandiser Email resume to: Major Textile Importer based in NYC [email protected] [email protected] Sportswear company (Junior & Missy) Must have excellent communication [email protected] having strong production hold in India and organization skills and be computer seeks a highly motivated, energetic & multitask applicant to effectively work and China seeks aggressive and highly literate. French a +. Please fax resume to motivated experienced persons w/ 718.387.7467 or e-mail: [email protected] in a fast environment. Computer literate Customer Service Rep & email overseas a must. Knowledge strong dept/chain contacts and capa- Richard Leeds Int’l seeks a Customer in print production a PLUS. bility to merchandise. Candidate Administrative Assistant Service Rep w/ 3-5 yrs exp in apparel. Excellent benefits! should possess qualities of a rainmaker. Resp for day to day coordination of Fax resume & salary requirements to: Only experienced persons need New York Luxury Apparel Co. is seek- apply. Fax resume at: 212-398-2579 ing an energetic, self-motivated, and shipping & maintenance of orders. 212-575-2660 well organized Administrative Assistant . Must review cut and sold reports. Responsibilities include front desk & Heavy interaction with Distribution office support, track sample shipments, Center. Must be detail oriented & accounts payable. Preference for college organized. Wal-Mart / Sam’s Club exp graduates with relevant experience, A+. Excellent environment & benefits. excellent references and be computer Email or fax resume to: 212-696-8450 literate. Please E-mail all resumes to: [email protected] [email protected] ASST. DESIGNER AMAZING GROWTH POTENTIAL Design Sportswear company (Junior & Missy) Assistant Designer For production in India and China Major Apparel Co located in NY seeks ATTENTION: seeks Asst. Designer having knowledge detailed oriented and organized indi- President’s / CEO’s of CAD making, aware of forthcoming vidual. Illustrator and Photoshop a If your co. is in search of a seasoned, colors and fashion. Exp a must. must. Strong written and verbal com- results oriented President/CEO with a Fax resume at: 212-398-2579 munication. Entry level to 1 yr exp. solid and successful history of turning Fax resume: Attn: Aida 212-768-3588 multi-million dollar organizations around to substantial profitability, then we should Buyer meet. Email: [email protected] EXPERIENCED BUYER Men’s Wear/Ladies’ Apparel/Children’s Wear. Fax resume to: 201-943-4290 ^ef[_d WcW]Wp_d[ F>EJE8OJ>EC7I?7DD799ED;

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