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Vestido Red Shoes Jaques Fath Otoño, 1950

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Vestido Red Shoes Jaques Fath Otoño, 1950 FEBRERO Vestido Red Shoes Jaques Fath Otoño, 1950 Por: José Luis Díez-Garde Sala: La moda renovada Domingos: 12:30 h Duración: 30 min Asistencia libre hasta completar aforo Texto Jose Luis Díez-Garde es presidente de la Asociación de Amigos del Museo del Traje. Licenciado en Comuni- cación Audiovisual (Universidad de Navarra) y MBA en Gestión de Empresas de Moda (ISEM), ha trabajado, entre otros medios, en GQ, Vogue Italia, Vanity Fair, Port Magazine, El País o La Razón y en la actualidad forma parte del equipo de Hola Fashion. Ha comisariado las exposiciones Man in Progress y Vistiendo el tiempo, y ha sido jurado de los Premios Nacionales de la Industria de la Moda y del Premio Nacional de Diseño de Moda. Coordinación y maquetación M.ª José Pacheco Corrección de estilo Ana Guerrero © De las piezas de la colección del Museo del Traje, Ministerio Cultura y Deporte NIPO: 822 - 19 - 010 - 6 VESTIDO RED SHOES DE JACQUES FATH, 1950 Pese a haber sido uno de los nombres más conocidos de su tiempo, Jacques Fath no goza ahora de la popularidad que logró en su momento. El diseñador francés fue uno de los más importantes creadores de los años dora- dos de la costura y eso que su carrera acabó de una manera precipitada en 1954, al fallecer de leucemia. Forjó una de las mayores casas de moda del París del New Look y fue uno de los que antes vio el inicio del prêt-à-porter y la importancia de publicitar la figura del propio diseñador; de ahí que se le pueda considerar el mejor heredero de Paul Poiret. Nos acerca- mos por tanto a uno de los grandes genios (la prensa especializada de los años 40 y 50 le destaca junto con Balenciaga, Dior y Balmain) Retrato de Jacques Fath. Foto: Noske, J.D. / de la moda del siglo XX y, posiblemente, uno Anefo - Dutch National Archives, The Hague, (ANEFO). Creative Commons. de los más desconocidos. rice Fath, presidía siempre su estudio. Este Su biografía también fue un artista, en su caso, un pintor Jacques Fath nació en el número 18 de la reconocido de finales del siglo XIX y principios Avenue Lavoisier, de Maisons-Laffitte (a las del XX, pupilo de Cabanel y Bernier, pero no, afueras de París), el 6 de septiembre de 1912, como también aseguraba el diseñador, discí- en una familia con un pasado artístico. pulo de Camille Corot. Sus bisabuelos fueron Georges y Ca- Durante la Gran Guerra su padre, An- roline Fath. El primero fue un escritor e ilustra- dré Fath, fue movilizado, por lo que se mudó dor con formación en escultura, mientras que junto con su madre y su hermana a la casa Caroline desarrolló una carrera en la moda de sus abuelos, en el número 49 de la Rue du como ilustradora y diseñadora, sin bien nunca Mesnil. En ese momento ya se empieza a adi- llegó a ser la estrecha colaboradora de la em- vinar su pasión por la moda: con 6 años em- peratriz Eugenia, algo que Fath solía destacar pezó a confeccionar diseños que él mismo se para llamar la atención sobre su herencia fa- probaba y a los 12 cuentan que recriminaba a miliar en este campo. De hecho, el retrato de su hermana y a sus amigos que no se vistieran Caroline realizado por su abuelo, René-Mau- de forma chic. 3 MODELO DEL MES DE FEBRERO En 1926, Fath experimentó con 14 no solo por sus diseños, sino también por su años el divorcio de sus padres. Su madre se destacada visión comercial. volvería a casar con Maurice Robert, hijo de A su vuelta del servicio militar, Fath en- un entrenador de Maisons-Laffitte, lo que hizo tró a trabajar en la editorial de Henri Lavauze- que se trasladaran a vivir a París. Su vida du- lle, un compañero suyo de regimiento. Gracias rante su juventud se desarrolló entre Veulettes, a este empleo comenzó su contacto más di- donde pasara los veranos; Tignes, lugar al que recto con la moda. Con el dinero que iba aho- acudiría con sus amigos a esquiar; Maisons- rrando por este trabajo, empezó a ir a clases Laffitte, donde organizaba fiesta sorpresas en de costura e, incluso, intentó entrar en la casa casa de su abuela; y París, donde vivió su vida de France-Vramant, una diseñadora amiga de como adulto. su hermana, pero no consiguió el trabajo, le Su padre, agente de seguros, fue rechazaron, y siempre guardó un rencor espe- quien le animó a estudiar en el Instituto Co- cial por esta firma. mercial. Acabaría trabajando para la oficina Entre las pasiones de Fath se encon- Paillard&Lacroix, unos corredores de valores traba la danza, de ahí que comenzara a fre- inmobiliarios, en la bolsa de París, lugar en el cuentar el club de l’American Church de París, que trabajaba su padrastro, una experiencia donde coincidió con Léonide Moguy, un direc- financiera que le resultaría luego muy útil para tor de cine y guionista francés. Fue él quien el negocio de la moda, en el que destacaría le animó a participar en una película y, para prepararse, le financió las clases de dicción con la actriz Eve Francis. La película nunca lle- gó a rodarse, pero Fath decidió continuar sus clases pagándolas con vestidos que realizaba para Francis1. Fue aquí donde conoció a Ge- neviève Boucher, secretaria de Coco Chanel, para la que también había realizado trabajos de modelo fotográfica. Él la definió como un cóctel entre Greta Garbo, Carole Lombard y Marlene Dietrich. Contrajeron matrimonio el 18 de febrero de 1939 y en 1943 tuvieron a Philippe, su único hijo. Geneviève fue la encar- gada de tomar el relevo del negocio cuando el falleció en 1954. El papel de su mujer fue fundamental en el éxito de la casa de costura: ella lució los diseños de Fath desde el princi- Jacques Fath y su mujer, Geneviève, en 1950. 1 Coughlan, Robert: “Designers for Ameri- Foto: Noske, J.D. / Anefo - Dutch National Archives, cans”. Life, 17 de octubre de 1949 (pág. 81). (ANEFO). Creative Commons. 4 VESTIDO RED SHOES DE JACQUES FATH, 1950 pio y fue la mejor embajadora de la firma, y un ralmente el negocio y confiar plenamente en Ir- referente de belleza y elegancia el París. Llegó jawski. La modista no consiguió presentar una a lucir al año unos sesenta y cinco diferentes colección ese año y no se hizo mención de la diseños de Fath, con un precio estimados de casa en la prensa especializada. Esto provocó unos 20.000$ (unos 160.000€ actuales). que Fath decidiera comprar el 11 de abril de 1940 la mitad de las acciones que pertenecían Fundación de la casa Fath a Gulbenkian, aunque no se vería libre de sus En 1936, Fath decidió fundar su propia casa compromisos militares hasta algo después, el de costura en el número 32 de la Rue de La 31 de julio de ese mismo año. Retomó así el Boétie, un lugar en el que, poco después abri- control de la casa y consiguió volver a apare- rían sus ateliers Jean Dessés, en junio de ese cer en los medios de comunicación. año, y Cristóbal Balenciaga, en agosto. Aquí El 22 de agosto de 1941, la firma, que fue donde el maestro vasco presentó su pri- continuó activa durante la II Guerra Mundial, mera colección en París. se trasladó al número 48 de la calle Francisco Su familia no le apoyó en este negocio I. Contrató a más personal cualificado y apa- y tuvo que invertir todos sus ahorros (900$) reció la figura de Maud, la primera vendedora para este proyecto; de ahí que se aliara con a la que llamaban ‘el lobo blanco’. Además Blume Irjawski, conocida como Madame Gul- de ella, otras personas destacadas dentro de benkian, una modista amiga de su hermana, la firma serían Janik, que era la directora de que le aportó la mitad del capital. En su pri- los salones; Vincent et Suzanne, que dirigían, mer desfile (primavera 1937) presentaron solo respectivamente, los ateliers de tailleurs y flou; veinte modelos. En esos momentos vivían de Marinette, jefa del atelier, y las modelos Mona los encargos de sus amigos y los diseños se y Louise. realizaban de una forma muy artesanal. Sus Fath tenía para 1942 ciento setenta y clientes, además, tenían que pagar una can- seis personas trabajando para él, que llegaron tidad por adelantado cuando encargaban sus a ser ciento noventa y tres en 1943; doscien- diseños para que el atelier pudiera funcionar. tos cuarenta en 1944, y entre 1950 y 1956, Esa situación se mantuvo hasta la colección de la casa tendría seiscientas venticinco, aunque invierno de 1938, cuando por primera vez se eso ya será en otra dirección, en el número 39 hizo referencia a la casa Fath en la revista L’Art de la avenida de Pedro I de Serbia, su sede de la Mode. El crítico Lucien François le visita- más emblemática en la que se instalaron en ría en su atelier al año siguiente, impresionado 1944. Allí ocupaba tres pisos de un hôtel par- por el vestido que su mujer, Geneviève, habría ticulier del siglo XIX (demolido en la actualidad) lucido en Grande Nuit de Longchamp: “Está en el que destacaba un jardín, donde solía inspirado. Tiene una visión. Triunfará”, afirmó. presentar sus colecciones. A la derecha se Gracias a esto el negocio empezó funcionar encontraba la boutique, donde se vendían las mejor, pero Jacques fue llamado a filas en frivolités (accesorios y modelos más accesi- 1939, por lo que tuvo que abandonar tempo- bles), y en los pisos superiores se repartían los 5 MODELO DEL MES DE FEBRERO y valorados junto con Dior, Balenciaga y Bal- main.
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