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Cycling inValsugana BETWEEN LAKE GARDA AND THE DOLOMITES From Turin in the extreme north- west of Italy, the autostrada runs eastward from Milan to Venice, a modern frontier between the flat- lands of the Po Valley to the south and the mountains and lakes of the north. Just right of center of that mountainous band, to the north of Brescia, Verona, and Lake Garda, is the province of Trentino. Given Story and Photos by Al Churcher that this is an area where the word even though it turned out to be closed on those von Trapps — the hills around here were soon hidden behind the closer, tree- Dolomites figures prominently in the atlas, Mondays. are alive with — well, castles, and the von covered ridge of Sasso Alto, Cima della then add the reputation of Italian drivers, Our descent to Ischia, another stiffish Trapps seem to have owned pretty well all Stanga, and L’Armentera. Between the two and you’d hardly expect to find this place climb, but all on tarmac, took us up onto of them at one time or another. ridges lay our return route, the Val di Sella. recommended as a bicycle-friendly destina- the ridge between the two lakes. No soon- Cyclepath in Italian is “ciclabile,” pro- Sometimes following one bank of the tion for everything from easy family day er had we glimpsed the superb view over nounced chee-klah–bee-lay — try saying Brenta and sometimes the other, the only rides to high-quality mountain biking. In Lake Caldonazzo than the heavens that after a glass or two of grappa or vino traffic we encountered was a pair of small, fact, though northern Trentino boasts opened. Putting our heads down (literally) locale! — and the newly opened Valsuga slow-moving tractors, a couple of mopeds, some of the Dolomites’ highest peaks, the we were soon back on gravel again. With Ciclabile runs for twenty-five almost-flat and a local train that rattled along the nar- southern foothills — and the valleys and so much water falling from above, after miles eastward from Lago di Caldonazzo to row-gauge railway on the other side of the lakes between — are most interesting to the plunge down through the trees back to the border with Venezia at Pianella. river — and the swallows making their cyclists. No wonder that the area is home Lake Levico, it scarcely mattered that the Although sections have been built for grass-hugging bombing runs between the to a cycling culture rarely found in other track was now well and truly waterlogged this purpose, most of the trail makes use of trees. All too soon, we were climbing up parts of Italy nor that local tourist boards — though I could have done without the the tiny, now mostly-paved, lanes that through the small town of Borgo are doing so much to promote cycling by grit in my teeth. The full route returns by grew up to service the miles of apple Valsugana, but thoughts of the climb out the creation of cycle paths, on- and off-road a dirt road high above the lake, taking in orchards bordering the River Brenta. The of the valley restricted our coffee stop to a routes, and a plethora of publications. the massive and still well-preserved World ride to Pianella is an easy, scenic day ride in quick stand-at-the-bar shot of espresso. After three pretty wet days in the War I fortress Forte delle Benne. Built of its own right and, as much of the trail has And, with almost 1,400 feet to gain company of double Olympic gold-medal- huge stone blocks, it‘s a wonderful exam- alternative sections on either side of the in four miles, it was pretty steep in places. ist Paola Pezzo and an international group ple of the last phase of castle building, and river, you don’t have to return by exactly Much of the climb was still tree-shaded, of journalists sampling the region’s won- its strategic position, high above lake and the same route. The next morning prom- and there were a couple of stops so we derful mountain biking, I climbed the valley, makes it a fantastic viewpoint in our ised to be a scorcher, but at 9:30 it was could admire the views, so it passed quick- twenty miles east from Trento and the val- thankfully more peaceful times. Return in clear and still cool. Wanting to get up high ly enough. From the Hotel Legno, the ley of the Adige to the beautiful little lake- the evening and look across the lake and for our last day, we had opted for the Val road narrows to enter a beautiful four-mile side town of Levico. With the May sun up to the opposite ridge over three thou- di Sella Circuit, which meant following the tunnel of trees and dappled shade that shining and water temperature close to sand feet higher, and you’ll catch the sun ciclabile for just the first ten miles. We made all the effort worthwhile. Above and seventy degrees, I was more than happy to glinting on another such fort, the Spitz were a month or more too late for blos- to the right, the woodland was fairly con- spend an afternoon lazing around the lake, Verle. It’s hard to imagine a time when soms and a fortnight too early for cherries, tinuous and, by the side of the road and up swimming, and reading-up on the touring shells whining and crashing across this but I can hardly imagine a better start to a small signed sidetracks, were numerous possibilities of the Valsugana. My friend landscape would have been a daily, even ride. Warm air and flat tarmac allowed living sculptures formed by bent and inter- Marco was not due to arrive until morning, The Valle dei Mocheni. Mountain biking high above Levico in Trentino province. hourly, occurrence. pedals to spin and muscles to come up to woven saplings of chestnut and hazel – the giving me the perfect excuse to relax. The next day threatened to be a total working temperature with little or no Arte Sella. To the left, the avenue was Next day, a morning of rain led to a anyway, but at least this route kept fairly the lake, at Visenteiner we forked right to washout, but in the early evening, it magi- effort, leaving the eyes free to float through more often bordered by open pasture, with clearer afternoon, although the sky was low and could be easily shortened. The follow signs for Castello di Pergine, a two- cally cleared, and we followed part of the the green rows of head-high trees — each glimpses through the trees of small, isolat- still threatening as we set off on the lake- first mile alongside the lake was flat and mile diversion that led steadily upwards cycle trail from Levico to Caldonazzo for a branch now covered with dozens of tiny ed summer chalets and towering cliffs side track of the Strada dei pescatori well-surfaced, although the rain of the past through beautiful old woods of oak and stroll alongside the lake. The Castello apple buds. Drifting above them were the beyond. On the left-hand side, not far from (Fisherman’s Road) on the thirteen-mile week meant some sections held just beech reminiscent of lanes in Britain’s Trapp was not open either, but because we great limestone cliffs of the 6,500-foot-high the Hotel Paradiso, was a beautifully shad- circuit of Lake Levico over the Colle di enough water to ensure a good front and Lake District. The last few hundred yards arrived just as a German tour party was ridge between the peaks of the Cima ed picnic area, and in the field above the Tenna to the larger lake of Caldonazzo. rear shower from mudguardless mountain- were a bit of a grunt or three, but the view leaving, we had a private tour from the Mandriolo and the Cima Dodici some road lay an evocative memorial to the fall- Chances were that we were in for a soaking bikes. On we went to tarmac at the end of from the castle was worth every one — present head of the Von Trapp family. Yes, three miles to the south, though these en of World War I — but, unlike most 20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2004 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2004 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 Nuts & Bolts: Northern Italy Websites: G www.garda.com/inglese/ context_bike_tours.asp G www.trentino.to Valsugana G www.ediciclo.it/cart I Getting there: I Fly to Verona or Venice and then put the T bike on the train to Levico. Italian rail- A L ways are still very cheap. Taking bikes on Y local buses is also possible. Accommodations: Numerous hotels and campsites line the shores of lakes Levico and Caldonazzo. The area is very popular with Dutch and German tourists. For more information: Check the Italy section of The Cyclsits’ Yellow Pages or online at www.adven Northern Italy offers a variety of outdoor activi- turecycling .org/cyp/ww.cfm. ties, including both on- and off-road cycling. others, this memorial honors both Italians and Austrians. Just after the largest sculp- ture, the tarmac ended and a mule track led us up to a good viewpoint on a hillock. At just under 3,500 feet, this was the day’s high point. From here, it was all downhill and off road to the village of Barco.

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