Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Spring 2012

The First Ever ARSENALE 2012 The First Kyiv Biennale of contemporary art In Your Hands Updated , the only comprehensive guide to all Kyiv eateries, clubs, sights and much more

№ 48 www.inyourpocket.com Contents The In Your Pocket app. with added GPS. ’s best city guides.

The best places to eat, drink, see, sleep and experience could be metres away

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contents 3

Sport & Leisure 40 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Places to keep your fit Mail & Phones Contents Express mail & Ukrainian city codes 41

The Basics 5 Getting around Arriving in Kyiv, customs, visas Car rental 42 Public transport 44 Culture & Events 8 Kyiv rich culture celebrations Shopping 45 Where to find wide range of goods Where to stay 13 A fine selection of places to spend the night Lifestyle directory 46 Clinics, Dry cleaners, International schools Restaurants 21 Cafés 29 Business directory 48 Banks, accountants and lawyers Nightlife 30 Kyiv nightlife scene Adult entertainment 49 Sightseeing Maps & Index Essential Kyiv 33 Street register 50 Museums 36 City maps 51 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 39 Index 55

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 4 Foreword Arriving in Kyiv

Kyiv residents couldn’t be happier that spring has finally arrived. This past winter has been one of the The World of In Your Pocket harshest in recent memory and saw the capital literally trapped beneath snow, ice, and extremely freezing Northern Estonia temperatures for nearly two months. With that in mind, Ireland if a burly Ukrainian sits next to you on a park bench Ireland Latvia and takes off his shirt, don’t be alarmed…he just needs to soak in some rays to get over the cabin fever. Lithuania The main theme of this Spring in Kyiv is of course the upcoming Euro2012 Championship. Thought Belarus Netherlands pessimists predicted total failure of as Poland a co-host country, almost everything has been Germany done to ensure the football extravaganza happens Ukraine Czech without much of a glitch. The Olympic Stadium was Republic finished almost in time and has already hosted some matches. A completely newly built Terminal Austria D at Boryspil International will be open soon, and a Switzerland Slovenia Romania great number of newly built hotels and hostels have Croatia opened their doors to welcome football funs. Italy Bosnia Serbia For those who haven’t checked the match schedule Bulgaria nor have any clue about this great event in Ukraine, Montenegro Kosovo we want to inform you that Kyiv hosts 3 group FYR Macedonia stage matches on the 11th, 15th and 19th of June. Albania The semi-final is on 24th of June, and the finale on Greece the 1st of July. March, April and May are chock-full of holidays, and It was a busy 2011 for In Your Pocket, with new Ukrainians always find a way to put their busy lives guides published in Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo), on hold and celebrate full tilt. Locals add their own Netherlands (Tilburg, Utrecht, Amsterdam and unique twists to April Fools’Day (1stApril). Easter Sittard-Geleen), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia this year falls on the 15th of April. International (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich), Slovenia (Po- Workers Day is celebrated on the 1st & 2nd of savje) and in Belarus (Minsk); 2012 promises to May. Victory Day is on the 9th of May. These deliver many more new Pockets, including our first latter two holidays see the city centre packed with guides in Italy (Cagliari) and Belgium (Ghent). crowds, parades and concerts. The cherry on top is The number of cities we cover has now climbed Kyiv Day! Scheduled this year on 27th May, this is past 75, and the number of In Your Pocket guides one of the rockin’est celebrations of the year. published each year is approaching an amazing You couldn’t have chosen a better time to visit five million. To keep up to date, like In Your Po- Ukraine’s capital. Kyiv is at its glorious best in cket on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) spring, so find a bench in the sunshine take a deep or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). breath and just let go. You can also now follow our tips on Foursquare Nosolodzhuisya! Enjoy! (foursquare.com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Copyright notice Editors & Writers Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES 2003-2012. All rights reserved. No part Mike Voehringher, Natasha Martisova of this publication may be reproduced Publisher Research Tamara Granatkina in any form, except brief extracts for Layout & Design the purpose of review, without written Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Natasha Martisova, KIS Ltd. permission from the publisher and Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25 Photos © Kyiv In Your Pocket copyright owner. The brand name In Your Kyiv 04080, Ukraine Cover photo www.flickr.com Pocket is used under license from UAB tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20 In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, +380 67 977 44 16 Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76. [email protected] Sales & Circulation Editor’s note Registration No. KB 7467 General Manager Andriy Chernyavsky © Neolitas-KIS Sales & Circulation The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for Printed by Express Poligraph, Kyiv Kyiv advertising. Sponsored listings are Published 4 times per year Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16 clearly marked as such. We welcome all 60,000 copies annualy Lviv readers’ comments and suggestions. Julia Kaniuka, +380 67 672 44 97 We have made every effort to ensure Maps the accuracy of the information at the Odesa time of going to press and assume no © DNVP “Kartographiya”, 2012 Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57 responsibility for changes and errors. © Kyiv In Your Pocket, 2012

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Arriving in Kyiv 5

By Bus All international buses arrive at Kyiv’s central bus station (центральний автовокзал). The station is still waiting for its European renovations and sits like a hideous centrepiece on Kyiv’s most unsightly square, Moskovs’ka ploscha. A currency exchange office (обмін валют) is next to the main exit, and just outside is an ATM (банкомат) that dispenses Ukrainian hryvnia. If you need to stash your bags, a left-luggage office is available (open 06:00 - 11:00, 11:30 - 17:00, 17:30 - 22:00). Getting to town Taxis are always on hand and can take you to the city centre for approximately 50Hr. A newly constructed Demiivs’ka metro station (blue line) is right near the bus sta- tion. Just go round McDonalds’ building, pass a subway and the metro entrance is on your right hand. By Plane Boryspil State International Airport (Аеропорт Бориспiль) is where almost all international flights land and depart. The smaller Kyiv Zhulyani Airport (Аеропорт Київ Жуляни) is only 8km from centre and handles mostly domestic travel and Wiz- zAir flights from Europe. Located 34km east of Kyiv, Boryspil is a small but modern facility. Ticketing agents, and passport and customs officials speak some English, so don’t worry if you haven’t yet mastered Ukrainian or Russian. International passengers now arrive and depart at two Terminals - B and constructed in 2010 Terminal F. Customs controls have been greatly relaxed in recent years, but it still makes sense to travel light and pass through the green express line when arriving. If you need to connect to a local flight, a free shuttle bus circulates between terminals F and A/B every 20 min. Feel like stretching your legs? Walk time to Terminal A, located 400 meters straight and to the right from Terminal F, is about 15 min. At Terminal A and B you’ll find currency exchange offices (обмін валют), information, car rental offices, cafés, public telephones (see Mail & Phones), etc. Tourist Information Getting to town At the exit of the terminals you’re sure to be approached by cabbies. The 30-45 minute ride to centre Tourist Info Centre B-4, Khreschatyk will set you back about 200-250Hr. Buses headed to Kyiv 19A, tel. (+380) 44 278 80 04. This info leave from terminal B roughly every 30 minutes. The charge centre is operated by a group of young people is around 25Hr and the bus will drop you off about an hour who devoted to their beloved city and will do later at the Central Train Station or you can take off at the first their best to help you. Tourist info centre also runs a free stop near the metro station (green line). walking city tour, which starts everyday at 12:00 and 16:00 from .QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. By Train Ornament Tourist Information Centre B-4, The refurbished Central Railway Station (центральний Volodymyrs‘ka 7, office 1, tel. (+380) 44 278 77 38, вокзал) has now been joined by a futuristic-looking South- [email protected], www.ornament.ua. Ornament of- ern Railway Station (південний вокзал), with the platforms fers tourist information about Kyiv and Ukraine, sightseeing located between the two. A new waiting lounge up the stairs tours, accomodation, train and air tickets and souvenirs. to the left from the central main hall boasts comfy couches QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. for a 5Hr admission fee. Currency exchange (обмін валют) points and ATMs (банкомат) are in the main halls of each station. Telephone calls can be made by paying money Taxis at a window on the 2nd floor near the central station’s escalators and then proceeding to the appropriate booth. In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your Coin-operated pay telephones are scattered throughout arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Metered the building, while card-operated ones are mostly outside taxis don’t exist, so you’ll have to haggle over the price the central entrance. with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in Getting to town You’re basically in it already, but short taxi getting a fair price, but be sure to settle on the amount rides to Khreschatyk Street (Хрещатик) area cost 35Hr and before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having up. The entrance to metro station Vokzal’na (Вокзальна) is bottomless pockets. Ordering a taxi by phone can help to your left as you exit the central station - look for the green you avoid surprises, as prices are usually fixed. letter M. Khreschatyk is only three stops east on the red Express tel. (+380) 44 239 15 15, www.express- line. Various trolleybuses, buses and minivans also depart taxi.ua. from the central station. Those with light bags and fresh legs Etalon tel. (+380) 44 501 55 01/502 54 54, www. can head down the main road and turn right at Shevchenko etalontaxi.com.ua. Boulevard (бульв. Т.Шевченка), which runs into Khreschatyk. Limousine tel. (+380) 44 502 08 08/207 37 37, www.limuzintaxi.com/eng. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 6 Basics

Basic data Kyiv vs. Kiev Population: No, this isn’t a fixture in the Ukrainian football league. Kyiv 2 785 100 These are the Ukrainian and Russian spellings, respec- Ukraine: 45 633 600 (1 January 2012). tively, of the city to which this guidebook is dedicated. Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 70%, Russian 20%, Most Westerners will be more used to the Russian ver- Others 10%. sion, but for rather obvious reasons ’Kyiv’ is generally Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%, preferred in Ukraine. Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%, Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish should not be more than one package of the same product. 0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%. Goods with a total value of less than €200 may be brought in Territory: 603,700km2. free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov is greater than €200, but less than €1000 they will need to Seas) 2,782km, 103km, Moldova 939km, be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) value of the goods is greater than €1000, the goods will be 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km. subject to clearance in accordance with the import declara- tion requirements for imported cargo. Rivers: (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any Danube. international alert and you have documents which prove your Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m. right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (T.Shevchenka bul’v. 3, Kyiv, it is 13:00 in , 11:00 in Paris and , tel. (+380) 44 279 53 40/(+380) 44 279 56 47.) 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York. All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine, must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must be handed National holidays 2012 over upon departure. This declaration can not be renewed if lost. January 1 New Year Communism January 7 Orthodox Christmas Like an aggressive case of athlete’s foot, communism refuses March 8 Women’s Day to go away. While Ukraine’s youth embraces capitalism and April 15 Easter Sunday nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to April 16 Easter Monday socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international May 1-2 A day off for the workers news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organiza- May 9 Victory Day tion savagely vandalised Kyiv’s sole statue of . June 3 Trinity Most people, Ukrainians included, think of the Bolshevik June 28 Constitution Day Revolution as a - this is inaccurate. August 24 Independence Day Many top revolutionaries (Leon Trotsky, Gregory Zinoviev, V. Volodarsky) were, in fact, from Ukraine. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. was Alcohol born in the Dnipropetrovs’k Oblast. moved from Russia to Donets’k as a teenager, and ascended the Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalin’s rule, and is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian national- can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. ism. The first tragedy is known as (starvation), a Ukraine also produces a wide selection of horilka (vodka), famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. odds are against you and your stomach. Whether it’s Ukrainian Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner. as the Great Purge (1936–1938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete annihilation of political rivals including fellow party Customs members, commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two litres the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had of , 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of tobacco. millions more sent to (penal labour/death camps). Personal belongings are not subject to customs duties or taxes, Ukraine’s share of the victims was disproportionately high. though a customs officer has the right to ask you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid bringing unessen- tial, valuable, personal items! A colleague of ours was told by a Disabled travellers customs officer to declare her wedding band. She declared the Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High value of the ring, and - to make a long story short - she ended curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train sta- up paying a $200 bribe in order to avoid an outrageous duty.) tion does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport A person can bring in food products free of customs duties and system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However, food symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in products should not total more than two kilograms, and there question specifically caters to disabled guests. Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Basics 7

Electricity Visas Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Vatican, current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia, Mongolia, the pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Rus- U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the Commonwealth sian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90 days. Everyone else needs their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electri- a visa, which must be obtained from a Ukrainian embassy or cal societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own. consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices varying depending on the type Money and length of visa requested. Many Ukrainian embassies only The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted information, call (+380) 44 286 45 04. everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, An- 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem find- dorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply ing currency exchange points, but rates are better from central for 30-day single and multiple entry business and private street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for visas without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become plentiful or we can book through a travel agency authorized to issue in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and state travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have national medical insurance, and must register their passports been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restau- with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are rants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it. usually willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required. For more information, call (+380) 44 537 52 03. Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the EU, Safety Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S. can enter They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all other visitors, away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate or at the Chisinau of crime. Kyiv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, airport by presenting an application form and photos. All visitors flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are planning to stay more than 90 days need an invitation and visa. known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your For more information, call (+380) 44 280 77 21. pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S., is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90 carry at least a copy of their passport with them at all times. days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call Smoking (+380) 44 234 00 40. Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel, some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are al- cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner lowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, ex- more information call the following embassies: Polish (+380) cept in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each 44 284 00 40, Hungarian (+380) 44 238 63 81, Slovakian company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or (+380) 44 234 06 06. personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total For a complete listing of embassy locations and phone num- allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in bers see kyiv.inyourpocket.com. In many cases, the consular Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it. section is responsible for issuing visas and is located apart from the embassy - save yourself time and confusion by Tipping calling before you go. Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their Market values bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask. How do costs compare to back home? Here’s a handy list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonald’s Big Mac 18,00Hr €1,68 $2,25 Loaf of white 3,25Hr €0,30 $0,40 Exchange rates Snickers bar 6,00Hr €0,56 $0,75 Litre of vodka 50,00Hr €4,67 $6,26 Official exchange rates (as of February 28): Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 5,00Hr €0,46 $0,62 €1 – 10.71Hr US$1 – 7.98Hr £1 – 12.62Hr 20 Marlboros 13,50Hr €1,26 $1,69 Current exchange rates are available at Public transport ticket 1,25Hr €0,11 $0,16 kyiv.inyourpocket.com 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 10,50Hr €0,98 $1,31 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 8 Culture & Events

What’s on

Date Event Venue Tickets, Hr March 9 Vopli Vidoplyasova Ukrainian pop-rock band OP 150-650 12 Kenny G Unstrumental music OP 290-2390 15,17 Stas Mikhailov Russian pop singer UP 550-1450 Aida Gomez Flamenco 15 Show-Ballet Spanish flamenco NAU 150-600 16 Sergei Babkin Famous Russian singer NAU 150-280 17 Nightwish Famous metal group IEC 350-1200 18 Krematoriy Russian rock group DP 300-550 22 Alessnadro Safina Famous Italian tenor UP 300-1500 22, 23 Fleur Ukrainian female dream-pop group HA 100-320 Imagination. Safronov 23 brothers Magic Show OP 150-1200 24 Fröken Julie Drama FT 1700-2950 25 Noize MC Russian rap, rock BC 180-250 25 Vitas Russian pop and opera singer UP 180-1200 25 Poets of the Fall Famous Rock band CH 350 26 Killer Joe Drama KO 370-890 28 V. Spivakov Orchestra OP 200-3000 29 Jamala Ucrainian pop vocalist OP 80-750 30 Suzi Quatro and Slade Glam-rock singer and and Brit-rock group OP 250-1390 31 Hed P.E. Punk-rock group BC 240-500 31 Yamato Show Japanese drummers UP 200-800

April 3 Chris Botti Jazz OP 150-800 7 Aquarium Famous Russian folk-rock group OP 450-990 20 Bi-2 Famous Russian rock group SP 250-1200 21 !Distain, Channel East Synthpop SR 120-250 26 Liza Minelli Theatre PS 250-6500 27 S. Vakarchuk. Brussels Ukrainian rock SP 200-1600 30 RED Hard-rock group SR 260-500

May 5 Sensation. Innerspace Dance Show IEC 700-1400 12 De/Vision Legendary German synthpop band SR 220-500 21 Emir Kusturica In concert with his NoSmokingOrchestr UP 190-1590 25 Ivan Dorn Ukrainian pop and funk singer CH 250-850

Tickets are available for purchasing online at www.karabas.com. Concert Halls (adresses on p. 11): ACP Arena Concert Plaza OP CH Crystal Hall PS Palace of Sport DP Docker Pub SP StereoPlaza FT Franko Theatre TC Tchaikovsky Conservatory HO House of Officers SR Sullivan Room UP Ukraine Palace NAU National Aviation University IEC International Exhibition Centre

Where to get tickets For regular cultural updates Tickets to most major events are available from: Karabas A-5, Metrograd mall (from Novyi Proizd), stay in touch MLva Tolstoho, tel.(+380) 44 590 55 55, www. karabas.com. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. with Kyiv In Your Pocket at Parter A-5, Horodetskoho 8 (Red Double Bus), MMaid- an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 287 87 87, www.part- www.facebook.com/KyivInYourPocket er.ua. Web-site available in English.QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 9

Art galleries ARSENALE 2012 Atelier Karas C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 22A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 238 65 31. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Theme: The Best of Times, The Worst of Times. Rebirth and Apocalypse in Contemporary Art. Brucie Collections C-2, Artema 55B, MLukyanivska, tel. (+380) 44 205 42 64, www.bruciecollections.com. In 2012 Kyiv will become one of the most important QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. destinations and join the international art agenda. The Collection H-3, Pankivs’ka 8, MUniversytet, tel. opening of ARSENALE aptly fits the art-route for the (+380) 44 287 37 66, www.collectiongallery.com.ua. season of spring-summer 2012, which includes the QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. contemporary art exhibition Documenta (Kassel, Ger- Gallery 36 C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 36, MKontraktova many), the world’s leading art fair in Basel, Switzerland, Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 29 85, www.gallery36.org. Hong Kong Art Fair and other important events. Major ua. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. international curators, art dealers and art lovers are putting ARSENALE on their schedules. The geography Gapchinska C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezh- of the First Kyiv International Bienniale of Contemporary nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 44 49. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Art covers almost all of the participating countries of Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Euro 2012. Therefore, ARSENALE 2012 will become an Maysternya B-2, Artema 1-5, MZoloti Vorota, tel. important programme for people visiting Kyiv during the (+380) 44 272 05 47. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Championship, as well as the main international cultural event of the year. Mystetskiy Kurin’ A-3, Pyrohova 10G, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 233 58 75. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. The First Kyiv international Biennial of contemporary art Silver Bells J-3, Sichnevoho Povstannia 18/29, to be held in the newly converted Mystetskyi Arsenal in MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 254 57 77. QOpen 09:00 the historical centre of Kyiv, takes as its subject the cycli- - 18:30, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. cal nature of contemporary art and how this is related Ya Gallery O-6, Volos’ka 55/57, MTarasa Shevchenka, both to our lives today and to our continually changing tel. (+380) 44 537 33 51. Ukrainian contemporary art. perspectives on past and future. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Its title is derived from the opening lines of Charles Zeh Gallery M-6, Frunze 69, MTarasa Shevchenka, tel. Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities, a novel about the French (+380) 68 118 51 57, www.zeh.com.ua. Contemporary Revolution, which the writer pointed out could also refer art. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. to almost any other time or place. Since the beginning of time continuing cycles of birth, vitality, decline and death Concert halls have accompanied the rise and fall of species, empires and cultures, often one providing the platform for the Arena Concert Plaza (ACP) A-5, Baseina 2A, ML’va next. Yet recently something has changed. Tolstoho, www.arena-kiev.com. Crystal Hall (CH) J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MArse- Works in this exhibition chosen from artists from different nalna, tel. (+380) 67 442 92 67/(+380) 44 288 50 countries, including Ukraine and CIS, will cast a critical 69, www.crystalhall.com.ua.. eye on contemporary culture, confronting the worst Docker Pub (DP) Bohatyrs’ka 25, tel.: (+380) 44 537 often as a means of protecting and celebrating the best. 13 40, MMins’ka. The exhibition is organised around four main ideas, none International Exhibition Centre on the Left Bank of which are mutually exclusive. The first one, The Rest- Brovars’kyi prosp. 15, MLivoberezhna. less Spirit, looks at the ways in which we derive strength House of Officers (HO) M. Hrushevskoho30/1, from beliefs, myths and conceptions of the universe that MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 528 31 86. are not governed by material need; In the Name of Order examines how under the pretext of rationalism power National Philharmonic (NP) D-4, Volodymyrs‘kyi uzviz attempts to dominate culture through the creation of 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 16 97, self-serving hierarchies; Flesh takes the human body, its www.filarmonia.com.ua. Q Tickets 30-120Hr. appetites, desires and limitations as its central theme. National Aviation University (NAU) D-4, The Unquiet Dream, the final section of the exhibition, Volodymyrs‘kyi uzviz 2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. focuses on nightmares and premonitions of disaster, (+380) 44 278 16 97, www.filarmonia.com.ua. without which we are unable to change. October Palace (OP) C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 82. The curator of ARSENALE 2012 is well known in artistic groups David Elliott. Palace of Sport (PS) A-5, Sportyvna pl. 1, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 72 53 (events department), www.spalace.com.ua. Art Arsenal (Mystetskyi Arsenal) J-3, Lavr’ka 12- 14, MArsenalna, tel. (+380) 44 288 51 40, www.ar- Stereo Plaza (SP) J-5, Kikvidze 17, MDruzhby Narodiv, tarsenal.in.ua. The biggest modern art project in Ukraine. tel. (+380) 44 222 80 44, www.stereoplaza.com.ua. The total area of the future cultural centre will be over 70 Sullivan Room (SP)B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. thousand square meters. One art gallery is already open, (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. and the whole Kyiv “Arsenal” factory is under reconstruc- tion. It will be turned into the biggest museum complex in Tchaikovsky Conservatory (TC) C-4, Horodets’koho Ukraine. Ex-president Yuschenko’s goal is to turn this new M 1, Maidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 07 92. cultural centre into the heart of the spiritual and historical Ukraine Palace (UP) H-4, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 103, life of Ukraine. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 247 24 76. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 10 Culture & Events

Opera & Ballet National Philharmonic March March Opera, in 4 Chamber Orchestra Music Evening. Performed by 10 G.Verdi La Traviatta Italian Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. The programme features S.Hulak- A Zaporozhian works by F. Mendelssohn, N. Gade, E. Dohnanyi, 15 Artemovskiy Cossack Beyond Opera B. Britten. the Danube 5 Concert from the set “Teacher and his students”. 16 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet Soloist – A. Kashchenko (piano). Performed by 18 A.Khachaturian Spartak Ballet students of National Music Academy of Ukraine. 6 Russian Symphony Music Evening. Soloist – O. 20 S. Rachmaninoff Aleco Opera Grynyuk (piano). Performed by National Symphony 21 S.Prokofiev Romeo et Juliette Ballet Orchestra of Ukraine. The programme features works by S. Prokofiev, S. Rachmaninoff, I. 22 P.Tchaikovsky Eugene Onegin Opera Stravinsy. 23 A.Melikov Legend about love Ballet 7 Concert on the occasion of International Women’s Opera, in day. Performed by National Symphony Orchestra 24 G.Bizet Carmen Italian of Ukraine. The programme features works by M. 27 P.Tchaikovsky Iolanta Opera Glinka, V. Basner, G. Sviridov, E. Morricone, P. Mauriat, A. Khachaturian, L. Anderson. 28 O.Glazunov Raymonda Ballet 8 Concert “Spring in tango style”. Performed by 29 G.Donizetti L’elisir d’amore Opera, in String Quartet “Caprice-classic”. The programme Italian features works by A. Piazzolla. 9 Concert in occasion of 198th Birthday of Taras Shevchenko. Conductor – A. Kozachok. Performed April by National Chapel of Bandura-players of Ukraine. 1 H.Lovenskjold La Sylphide Ballet 10 Leticia Moreno (Spain). Performed by Symphony Orchestra of National Philarmonic of Ukraine. 3 P.Tchaikovsky The Nutcracker Ballet The programme features works by E. Lalo, O. 6 G.Verdi Don Carlos Opera, in Respighi. Italian 12 Violin Music. Performed by duo “Fedotov-Petrova” 7 A.Adan Giselle Ballet (Russia). The programme features works by G. Opera, in Tartini, J. Brahms, P. Tchaikovsky, G. Verdi. 8 G.Verdi Don Carlos Italian 14 The Art of Piano. Soloist – S. Kuznetsov (Russia). 10 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet The programme features works by N. Rota, F. Chopin, C. Debussy. 11 P.Tchaikovsky Iolanta Opera 16 Magic Guitar. Soloist – Marco Topchiy. Performed 12 M.Theodarakis Zorba The Greek Ballet by Symphony Orchestra of National Philarmonic The Barber of of Ukraine. The programme features works by M. 13 G.Rossini Seville Opera Castelnuovo-Tedesco, M. Koshkin, F. Sor, M. 14 L.Minkus Don Quixotte Ballet Karulli. A Zaporozhian 18 Serenades Evening. Performed by National 15 S.Hulak- Cossack Beyond Opera Chamber Ensemble “Kyiv Soloists”. The Artemovskiy the Danube programme features works by A. Dvořák, B. 17 G.Bizet-R. Carmen-Suite Ballet Britten, V. Silvestrov. Shchedrin 20 Chamber Music Evening. The programme features 18 G.Puccini Madama Butterfly Opera, in works by G. Catoire, I. Stravinsky. Italian th Opera, in 22 Concert on the occasion of 170 Birthday of M. 19 G.Verdi Rigoletto Italian Lysenko. L. Martsevych. Klass-Concert. The programme 23 Vocal and Symphony Music Evening. The 20 features works by Glazunov, Ballet programme features works by W. A. Mozart, L. Liadov, Rubinstain, Shostakovich Beethoven, A. Boito, J. Massenet, G. Donizetti, Radio & Juliet Based on Ballet G. Verdi, R. Wagner. Radiohead music 25 Frederic Chopin Piano Works. Performed by P. Klass-Concert. The programme Shykhovski (Poland). The programme features 21 features works by Glazunov, Ballet works by F. Chopin. Liadov, Rubinstain, Shostakovich Based on 27 Piano Music Evening. Soloist – I. Poroshyna (piano). Radio & Juliet Radiohead music Ballet Performed by National Instruments Ensemble “Ridni Naspivy”. The programme features works 22 P.Tchaikovsky Swan Lake Ballet by A. Dvořák, C. M. Weber, F. Schubert, F. Chopin, F. Kreisler, A. Piazolla, E. Morricone. 24 J.Strauss Vienna Valce Ballet 28 Concert from the set “Boris Lyatoshynsky’s 28 G.Verdi La Traviatta Opera, in Symphonies”. Performed by National Symphony Italian Orchestra of Ukraine. Soloist – D. Tkachenko Taras Shevchenko National Opera of Ukraine (violin). The programme features works by V. A-4, Volodymyrs’ka 50, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) Silvestrov, A. Berg, B. Lyatoshynsky. 29 G. B. Pergolesi “Stabat Mater”. Performed by String 44 234 71 65/(+380) 44 279 11 69, www.opera. Quartet “Post Scriptum”. com.ua. Home of the country’s most famous opera and 30 Symphony Dimension. Performed by Symphony ballet company. This is a must visit venue for all travellers. Orchestra of National Philarmonic of Ukraine. Performances are always outstanding and the humble Dirigent – M. Dyadyura. The programme features ticket prices (15-80Hr) make this the city’s best value in works by F. Haydn, C. Debussy. entertainment. All performances start at 19:00.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Culture & Events 11

National Philharmonic April May 1 Musicians Joke Concert. Performed by 3 Music Meetings Festival. Performed by Choir Ensemble “Dyvograi”. “Dzvinochok”. 3 Opera, Jazz, Blues Concert. Performed by 4 Performed by Symphony Orchestra of National National Brass Band of Ukraine. Philharmonic of Ukraine. Soloist – M. Kim (piano). 4 Classical Music. Performed by National The programme features works by J. Brahms. Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine. The 5 Music Meetings Festival. Performed by Choir programme features works by “Dzvinochok”. P. Tchaikovsky, O. Glazunov and 8 Victory Salute Concert. Performed by National D. Shostakovich. Brass Band of Ukraine. The programme features 5 Violin Miniatures. The programme features works by M. Fradkin, A. Joyce, B. Okudzhava, E. works by C. Debussy, M. Ravel, I. Albeniz, Dreisen, V. Solovyov-Sedoi, D. Tuhmanov, E. Ysaÿe and G. Gershwin. V. Agapkin. 6 Performed by Symphony Orchestra of National 9 War Times Music Concert dedicated to the Victory Philarmonic of Ukraine. Director – M. Dyadyura, Day. Performed by National Instruments Ensemble soloist – V. Sokolov. The programme features “Ridni Naspivy”, Quartet of Accordionists named works by P. Tchaikovsky, S. Prokofiev and after M. Risol, Ensemble “Merry Musicians” and M. Ravel. Vocal trio of soloists “Kozachka”. 8 Performed by National Instruments Ensemble 10 Performed by Chamber-instrumental quartet of “Ridni Naspivy”. The programme features National Philharmonic of Ukraine “Dzherelo”. The classic works by European composers, programme features works by G. Bizet, romances by modern Ukrainian composers J. Offenbach, A. Piazzolla, P. Tchaikovsky and and Ukrainian national songs. M. Lysenko. 10 Women Images in Music Concert. Performed 11 Concert with the Support of Austrian Cultural by National Brass Band of Ukraine. The Forum. Performed by Symphony Orchestra of programme features works by G. Bizet, National Philharmonic of Ukraine. Soloist – P. Sauber, O. Glazunov, N. Rimsky- V. Lukiyanets (soprano). The programme features Korsakov and D. Shostakovich. works by F. Schubert and G. Mahler. 11 Magic Guitar Concert. Soloist – O. Rengach. 14 L. Martsevych (piano). The programme features The programme features works by F. Moreno works by S. Rachmaninoff and F. Liszt. Torroba, L. Legnani, J. S. Bach, H. Rodrigo, 16 Kyiv Accordion Fest. Performed by Ensemble “Grand H. Villa-Lobos, L. Barrios, H. Morel, Accordion” and Chamber-instrumental quartet of F. Tarrega, E. Lecuona, L. Brower, National Philharmonic of Ukraine “Dzherelo”. Soloist F. Bustamante. – E. Cherkasova (accordion). 13 J. S. Bach “Mass in B minor”. Performed by 17 Performed by National Chamber Ensemble “Kyiv National Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine and Soloists”. The programme features works by National Honoured Chapel “Dumka”. B. Bartok. 17 National Ukrainian Philharmonic Soloists Duo – H. Safonov (violin) and O, Strogan (piano). The 18-22 Music Festival “Kyiv Spring” programme features works by F. Schubert, A. 18 Violin Music Concert. Performed by Symphony Dvořák, C. Debussy, K. Szumanovski, Orchestra of National Philharmonic of Ukraine. G. Gershwin. Soloist – S. Slovachevsky (cello, Russia). Director 19 Performed by Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. – L. Petizhirar (France). The programme features Conductor – Roman Koffman. works by C. Debussy and L. Petizhirar. 20 Violin Music. Soloist – V. Brodski (violin, 19 Performed by Kyiv Chamber Orchestra. Conductor – Poland). Performed by Symphony Orchestra R. Koffman. of National Philharmonic of Ukraine. The 20 Magic Guitar Concert. Performed by National programme features works by N. Paganini Symphony Orchestra of Ukraine. Soloist – and S. Franck. M. Vinicius (Brazil). The programme features works 21 Performed by National Chamber Ensemble “Kyiv by M. Giuliani and H. Villa-Lobos. Soloists”. Soloist – Hugo Ticciati (Great Britain). 21 Concert “The Art of Piano Play”. Soloist – P. The programme features works by Nersesyan (Russia). The programme features works R. Shchedrin, I. Stravinsky and A. Honegger. by F. Liszt, G. Verdi, R. Wagner, E. Granados and th I. Albeniz. 22 Concert on the occasion of 60 anniversary. 22 Symphony Dimension Concert. Performed by Soloist – O. Blinov (percussions). Performed by Symphony Orchestra of National Philarmonic Ensemble “Virtuoso Parade”. of Ukraine. Soloist – M. Patyra (Poland). The 24 Performed by Guitar Quartet “Kyiv”. The programme features works by J. Haydn and programme features works by M. Glinka, N. Paganini. M. Mussorgsky, A. Dargomyzhsky, G. Sviridov. 23 Performed by National Instruments Ensemble “Ridni 25 Performed by Symphony Orchestra of Naspivy”. Soloist – I. Borko (tenor). The programme National Philarmonic of Ukraine. Dirigent – F. features Neapolitan and Ukrainian songs. Glushchenko (Russia). The programme 25-30 XXI International Festival “Musical Premiers of features works by M. Ravel and C. Debussy. the Season” by Ukrainian Composers Society. 27 Symphony Dimension Concert. On the 31 Performed by Ensemble “Dyvogray”. The occasion of F. J. Haydn’s 280th birthday and th programme features works by G. Rossini, G. Rossini’s 220 birthday. Performed by C. Delibes, G. Gershwin, M. Lysenko, Y. Symphony Orchestra of National Philharmonic Stepovy, M. Skoryk and Ukrainian Folk songs. of Ukraine. Soloist – P. Cech (Czech Republic). The programme features works by F. J. Haydn and G. Rossini.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 12 Culture & Events Where to stay

Mamajeva Sloboda Culture centres American Library D-2, Volos’ka 8/5, building 4, #116, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 31 13, www.library.ukma.kiev.ua/amer/. English language publications. British Council D-2, I-1, Skovorody 4/12, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 490 56 00, www.britishcouncil. org.ua. QOpen 13:00 - 19:30, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. French Cultural Centre G-2, O. Honchara 84, MUni- versytet, tel. (+380) 44 482 06 72/(+380) 44 482 23 71, www.ifu.com.ua. QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Tue, Thu 10:00 - 13:00, 15:00 - 18:00; Sat. 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Goethe Institute D-2, I-1, Volos’ka 12/4, MKontrak- tova ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 496 97 85, www.goethe. de/kiew. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italian Culture Institute B-2, H-2, Yaroslaviv Val 32B, Cossack’s Settlement Mamajeva Sloboda MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 270 62 23, fax (+380) 44 E-3, Dontsia 2, tel. (+380) 44 361 98 48/(+380) 279 38 42, www.iickiev.esteri.it. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 063 782 78 31 (excursions department), www. 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. mamajeva-sloboda.ua. In the middle of XVII century Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Centre E-1, Dehtyarivs’ka French engineer and cartographer Guillaume Le Vas- 25A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 99 00/(+380) seur de Beauplan said “Ukraina est Terra Cosacorum” 44 490 99 96, [email protected], www.arraid.org. (Ukraine is a Land of Cossacs). Almost 400 years after in seven kilometers from the main street of Ukraine’s Polish Institute A-3, H-2, B. Khmel’nytskoho 29/2, capital an open-air museum Mamajeva Sloboda Cos- #17, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 288 03 04, www. sacs’ Village has been settled. The Cossack’s Sloboda polinst.kiev.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. with its 98 exhibition objects is located on the 9 hectares Ukraine-Japan Centre F-2, Peremohy prosp. 37, and represent replicas of historical settlement depicting MPolitekhnichnyi Instytut, tel. (+380) 44 406 81 66, Ukrainian nature and lifestyle of the old times. www.uajc.com.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. In just few steps from the main gate of the settlement (Tsarina) you feel yourself transferred into the Cossacks epoch of the 17th – 18th centuries. Then after visiting the Cinemas unique Cossacks three-domed wooden church founded Butterfly Bilshovyk E-2, Het‘mana 6, Bilshovyk Shop- in the name of Intercession of the Holy Virgin you’ll be ping Mall, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 10, treated as the most welcome visitor of the estates of a www.kino-butterfly.com.ua. Tickets 15 - 90Hr. Churchwarden, a Potter, a Blacksmith, a Cossack-dzhura (Cossack armour bearer) and a Fortune-teller. Butterfly Deluxe H-4, Gor‘koho 50, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. Except just walking around and watching Mamajeva (+380) 44 206 13 20. Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. Sloboda offers excursions and folk craft master-classes, Butterfly Petrivka M-4, Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 6, MPetriv- horse riding, driving a horse-drawn carriage, firing a ka, tel. (+380) 44 536 04 84. Q Tickets 15 -60Hr. salute from Cossack’s cannons, arrangement of genu- Kinopalats C-4, Instytuts‘ka 1, MMaidan Nezalezh- ine Ukrainian weddings and banquets according to old nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 72 23, www.kinopalace.net. traditions and many more. We also can recommend Q Tickets 15 - 90Hr. you to taste historical traditional dishes in their shynok (Ukrainian restaurant). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Excur- Kyiv A-5, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 19, ML‘va Tolstoho, sions 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 40Hr, 10Hr for children. tel. (+380) 44 234 73 81, www.kievkino.com.ua. Excursions in English, German, French, Italian and Chi- Q Tickets 20 - 60Hr. nese are available, but must be arranged in advance. For Kyivs‘ka Rus G-1, Artema 93, MLuk‘yanivs‘ka, tel. group under 10 people excursion costs 320Hr, for more (+380) 44 486 74 74, www.kievrus.com.ua. Ukraine‘s than ten - 30Hr per person. biggest screen, and one of Europe‘s largest, at 26m x 11m. Also a café, bar and billiards. Q Tickets 12 - 36Hr. Multiplex IMAX O-5, Moskovs‘kyi prosp. 34B, Block- Baster Shopping Mall, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 498 48 32. Q Tickets 20 - 100Hr. Odesa Kino G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 15 11, www.kinoodessa.com. Q Tickets 17 - 50Hr. Ukraina C-4, Horodets‘koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 63 01, www.kino-ukraina.com.ua. Q Tickets 15 - 56Hr. Zhovten D-1, Kostiantynivs‘ka 26, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 89 09, www.zhovten-kino. kiev.ua. Q Tickets 16-35Hr, sofa for two spectators 60Hr.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 13

Cream of the Crop Symbol key Hyatt Regency Kyiv C-3, A.Tarasovoi 5A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, fax (+380) 44 P Air-conditioning L Guarded parking 581 12 35, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Hyatt Regency 6 Animal friendly R Internet Kyiv is centrally located in the historical centre on Sofiivs’ka Square. The hotel is the ideal address for business and T Child friendly M Nearest metro station leisure travellers alike. With high-tech communications and H Conference facilities G Non-smoking rooms ergonomic working areas, 234 spacious deluxe rooms and 25 suites provide the perfect setting for the discerning global A Credit cards accepted K Restaurant business traveller. Luxurious bathrooms with underfloor J City centre location D Sauna heating, deep-soaking baths and exceptional rain showers create a unique in-room experience. State-of-the-art meeting F Fitness centre C Swimming pool and banquet facilities with 1,000 square meters of function U Facilities for the disabled W Wi-Fi internet access space accommodate all needs, from small meetings to large-scale events. Luxurious Spa Natural with its advanced treatments to rejuvenate body and soul, a sophisticated Intercontinental C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 2A, gym with the latest equipment, a 25-meter swimming pool, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 219 19 19, unique restaurants and bars and the exclusive Regency www.intercontinental.com/kiev. Intercontinental has Club® make Hyatt Regency Kyiv a true paradise in the world been setting the bar in the hotel industry for decades, and of hospitality. Q234 rooms (standard €328 - 585, deluxe its expansion into the Kyiv market represents a much needed €353 - 610, club €378 - 635, regency suite €578 - 835). infusion of competition in the “cream of the crop” end of the PTJHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh accommodation spectrum. Its location near Mykhailivs’ka ploscha (square) offers tourists and business travellers ac- cess to the best Kyiv has to offer. Rooms range from stylish Door smarts to elegant and come equipped with all imaginable amenities. Notable hotel facilities and services include a fitness centre, A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing swimming pool, spa, business centre and travel services. moments in front of a foreign door. Conference facilities can accommodate a whopping 800 Pull На себе На себя participants, and the stunning ball room seats 400. The avail- Push Від себе От себя able dining and entertainment options are hard to top. Relax Open Відчинено Открыто with coffee and dessert in the Lobby Lounge or pop into the Closed Зачинено Закрыто Lobby Bar for a cigar and cocktails. Located on the 11th floor, the b-Hush Rooftop Caviar Bar is open for dinner and offers an impressive selection of exclusive dishes and an unforget-

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 14 Where to stay

€325 - 395, 115 Premier Rooms €425, 29 Suite €495 - 625, Accomodation in Kyiv 3 Apartment €1200 - 3500). POHARUFLGK� DCW hhhhh As with all emerging Eastern European countries, the M quality and service on offer in Ukraine’s hotels and apart- Radisson BLU B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 22, Zoloti Vorota, ments can vary to the greatest degree, and Kyiv is only tel. (+380) 44 492 22 00, fax (+380) 44 492 22 10, now beginning to showcase its traditions of fine service. [email protected], www.radissonblu. Although there is still a shortage of upscale accommoda- com.ua/hotel-kiev. Radisson hotels worldwide have a repu- tion in the city centre, many smaller and less prestigious tation for excellence and Kyiv’s is no exception. The Radisson hotels and apartments are beginning to appear. Private SAS Kyiv offers its guests wireless access to the Internet companies offering newly renovated apartments can around the clock, and for the technologically challenged the meet the needs of almost any clientele, and renting an IT-savvy concierge is a classy touch. The spacious rooms, apartment on a nightly basis is a sensible alternative to furnished in three different styles, include plenty of satellite a hotel. It’s considerably cheaper, and the advantages TV channels, in-house movies, coffee/teamaker, a trouser of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are real. press, safe and hairdryer. Business class rooms and suites Hotels remain most people’s first choice however, and are more spacious and include a few extra perks like buffet new places are being constructed all over the city. Like breakfast and daily newspapers. The hotel is well geared-up for events, with its state-of-the art conference facilities avail- Kyiv In Your Pocket, the city is growing... Prices include Q breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated. able for meetings or banquets. 255 rooms (183 Standards €267, 49 Business class €308, 22 Suites €350, 1 Presidental €517). Breakfast is not included in the price of a standard room. PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhh table view of the city centre. Brimming with tasty Italian and Mediterranean cuisine, Olivera is your laidback dining option, Riviera on Podol D-3, Sahaidachnoho 15, MPoshtova and Comme Il Faut is an elegant French restaurant offering ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 581 28 28, fax (+380) 44 581 28 the finest in Parisian inspired cuisine. Q273 rooms (classic 68, [email protected], www.rivierahotel.com.ua. €299 - 435, deluxe €326 - 465, club deluxe €389 - 535, club Riviera hotel is located in the historical part of Kyiv - in . executive €405 - 600, ambassador suite €910). hhhhh Such a suitable location makes it easy to reach main business and sightseeing areas of the city such as Andriivs’kyi uzviz, Opera A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 53, MUniversytet, tel./ Mykhailivs’ka and Sofiivs’ka Squares and Khreschatyk street. fax (+380) 44 581 70 70, reservations@opera-hotel. Through the windows of your room you can enjoy the view com, www.opera-hotel.com. The Opera Hotel is a luxury of the Dnipro River and historical Podil. Each room includes boutique hotel which offers something unique for its guests. controlled air-conditioning. Home-like cosiness, high-quality Staying in the Opera Hotel, you will not only enjoy the exquisite service and an individual approach to each guest makes Rivi- interior design, feast on fabulous food and enjoy a glass of era Hotel attractive to business travellers and tourists alike. exquisite wine near a fireplace, but you will also feel right Q79 rooms (standard €220 - 240, junior suite €290, suite at home, although home may be oceans away. The Opera €350, apartment €420). PHARUFGKD hhhh Hotel is located just 15 minutes from downtown Kyiv and Khreschatyk Street allowing one to be in touch with Kyiv’s Vozdvyzhens’kyi Boutique Hotel C-2, Vozdvyzhens’ka business and social life, but away from the busy downtown 60, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 00, area. Business club, lobby lounge, conference rooms and spa fax (+380) 44 462 58 43, [email protected], www. and fitness club are all a part of the luxury facilities offered to vozdvyzhensky.com. This is one of the most elegant and guests. Q136 rooms (standards 5200 - 5550Hr, superiors conceptual places in the capital - an ideal choice for business 5800 - 6150Hr, suites 10000 - 10350Hr). POARU� travel and elite relaxation. The hotel’s unique location, in FLGKD hhhhh the heart of a protected architectural monument of ancient Kyiv, adds a special aura. The hotel’s smart façade faces Podol Plaza D-2, Kostiantynivs’ka 7A, MKontraktova Andriivs’kyi uzviz and the Terrace Restaurant is secluded by Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 503 92 92/(+380) 44 503 92 03, the surrounding green hills that provide a breathtaking pano- fax (+380) 44 503 92 20, reservation@podolplazahotel. ramic view. The pleasant staff and interior create a pleasant com.ua, www.podolplazahotel.com.ua/en. This four-star homelike atmosphere. Rooms are decorated in different boutique hotel creates a distinctive charm of elegance and styles from chic and modern to sophisticated and elegant. antique style in the historical centre of Kyiv. Located just a few The windows open up on a cosy internal courtyard or on the steps from the city’s best museums and most spectacular picturesque Andriivs’kyi uzviz. All 24 rooms, including the two Orthodox cathedrals, it has all the advantages of a larger deluxe suites and the two exclusive suites, come with Jacuzzi, establishment, yet exudes the warmth, intimacy and attention “Club” and “Boudoir”, air-conditioning, mini bar, satellite TV to detail that only a privately-owned hotel can. The hotel’s Gal- and Internet access. The conference hall accommodates lery Restaurant combines traditional cuisine with new flavours up to 100. There is a smaller hall for private meetings. Other and is equally appropriate for both business lunches and perks include a summer terrace with a splendid view of dinners. The bar is a perfect place to numb your senses after the surrounding green hills and Podil, parking, banqueting, a hectic day. Q57 rooms (singles 1650 - 2000Hr, doubles rewards programme, tailor-made service for every client and 1900 - 2400Hr, twin 1900 - 2200Hr, suites 2800 - 3300Hr, a special offer for those just married. Q25 rooms (9 singles apartments 5500Hr). PHALK hhhh €100 - 142, 12 doubles €130 - 155, 4 suites €209 - 280). Premier Palace A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./Pushkins’ka PHARLBKW hhhh 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 244 12 01/ (+380) 44 244 12 11, fax (+380) 44 279 87 72, info@ premier-palace.com, www.premier-palace.com. Kyiv’s first five-star hotel lives up to its name and more. Each room has a fully-interactive TV and internet system, along with €1 = 10.71Hr; US$1 = 7.98Hr; £1 = 12.62Hr a telephone and SOS alarm in the bathroom. The fabulous (28 February 2012 official rates) fitness centre with a gorgeous pool is opened to guests from 07:00 to 23:00. Q289 rooms (142 Classic Rooms

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 15

salads and baked veal come highly recommended. The con- Upmarket ference room can accommodate up to 80, can be divided into new two smaller rooms and comes fully equipped. Q200 rooms Autograph H-4, Predslavyns’ka 35D, MPalats Ukraina, (Standard 790Hr, Classic 930 - 1030Hr, Deluxe 1500 - 1650Hr, tel. (+380) 44 220 45 75, fax (+380) 44 220 45 76, Luxe 2500 - 2800Hr). PHALKW [email protected], www.autograph-hotel. City Park Hotel A-2, Vorovskoho 20A, tel. (+380) 44 451 com.ua. This lovely 4-star hotel just opened this year. It has 87 01/(+380) 44 503 77 90, fax (+380) 44 451 87 27, a classic/modern design and is located just a 2 minute walk [email protected], www.cityparkhotel.com.ua. from Palace Ukraina concert hall. All 275 rooms are ideal for This is a new boutique hotel located in the cultural, historical business people: telephone, free Wi-Fi Internet access, safe, business part of Kiev, and has been recognized as one of the minibar, interactive TV, climate control system. There are best European style hotels in Ukraine. This quaint hotel has rooms for allergy sufferers and the disabled, and all staff have 23 rooms fully equipped, with a modern, bright design. Rooms an excellent command of English. There are several seminar cost from Euro 130 per night with breakfast included. There is & conference rooms and a complete range of business ser- fax, photo copy, and a full range of business services available vices are available. The theme is “autographs” and one can on request and conference rooms are available. The staff is look through the special albums where local and international warm & friendly and fluent in English. There is also a massage celebrities have left their comments and signatures.Q275 service available for guests. There is no restaurant but the Café rooms (10 singles €167, 234 doubles €187, 19 standards plus Bar is great with a limited menu at moderate prices. Café open €247, 4 business €277, 5 junior suites €545, 2 suites €1975, 1 07:30-23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-18:00. Q23 rooms (standards apartment €2895, additional bed €50). PHAULKW €145 - 175, suites €225 - 240). PJALGW hhhh Bakkara Art-hotel K-3, Venetian Island 1 (near the Cosmopolite E-2, Vadyma Het’mana 6, letters A, А’, Metro ), MHydropark, tel. (+380) 44 537 73 37, MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 205 35 20, fax (+380) www.bakkara-hotel.com.ua. Kyiv’s riverfront has boomed 44 205 35 21, [email protected], www. in recent years and the Bakkara Art-hotel is definitely a fine cosmopolite-kiev.com. The new business hotel is built in addition to what is becoming one of the city’s hotspots. The Constructivism style, which suites to the surrounding area hotel offers charm and class with prices that make sense. and Bil’shovyk Shopping Mall nearby. But except of bright The rooms are fashionably decorated and comfortable. Room avant-garde façade, the hotel has truly impressive interior. amenities include air conditioning, electronic security system, Each of the hotel’s five floors is designed in a style dedicated TV, free Wi-Fi, personal safe, hairdryer, mini-bar, telephone with to one of the prominent artists of Constructivism and holds a direct international access and striking views of the Dnipro small museum room of each painter. The hotel’s location isn’t River and . The hotel was the brainchild of central, however staying there you’ll be within easy access the Kozynaya Karta restaurant chain, so expect top notch to all major business and leisure facilities, with a 10 minutes service and fare at the restaurant. The complimentary buffet ride by Pobedy prosp. to Khreschatyk. Each room is equipped breakfast is a crowd pleaser and the chef’s special seafood with working area, safe, mini-bar, coffee and tea. For business kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 16 Where to stay

visitors there is a business centre and business areas on Lybid G-2, Peremohy pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) each floor. The hotel’s restaurant offers German cuisine. 44 236 60 23/(+380) 44 236 95 72, fax (+380) 44 Q160 rooms (143 Standard 1761Hr, 7 Junior suite 2282Hr, 236 63 36, [email protected], www.hotel- 10 Suite 2699Hr). PHAUFLGKW lybid.com.ua. Named after the legendary sister of Kyiv’s Dnipro C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, founders, the Lybid is situated in the business heart of Kyiv. tel. (+380) 44 278 09 89, fax (+380) 44 254 67 65, reser- All rooms are bright and have pleasant wooden furniture [email protected], www.dniprohotel.ua/en. One of the plus air-conditioning, satellite TV, refrigerator and hairdryer. best four star hotels in Ukraine. This 12-storey hotel was built in Guests in singles can stretch out and relax on a king-size 1964 in the centre of the business, political and cultural heart bed. There are a lot of restaurants and stores in the area, of the city. The majority of the rooms are recently renovated; as well as the circus and Ukraina shopping mall. The central some of the rooms have a spectacular view of the Dnipro river. All train station and the downtown area are within easy reach by rooms have air-conditioning, internet, satellite TV and individually public transport. Q273 rooms (159 singles 930 - 1070Hr, 82 controlled central heating. Q186 rooms (87 singles €70 - 98, doubles 930 - 1070Hr, 3 Junior suite 1217 - 1467Hr, 27 Suite 51 doubles €118 - 162, 7 junior suites €168 - 222, 41 suites 1627 - 1877Hr, 1 Business suite 2144 - 2394Hr, 1 Exclusive €198 - 238). POHARFLGKDCW hhhh suite 2488 - 2739Hr). PTHARULGKW hhh Domus D-1, Yaroslavs’ka 19, MKontraktova Ploscha, Natsional’nyi C-6, Lyps’ka 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. tel. (+380) 44 462 51 20, fax (+380) 44 462 51 45, (+380) 44 255 88 88, fax (+380) 44 255 89 97, ho- [email protected], www.domus-hotel.kiev. [email protected], www.natsionalny.kiev.ua. An ua. The private management at this medium-sized Podil exorbitantly-priced hotel situated in the prestigious Pechersk establishment does a very good job fulfilling their claim to be neighbourhood. It has hosted Helmut Kohl, Jacques Chirac Kyiv’s only business-class hotel. All of its rooms have special and a number of other world leaders. The hotel was recently orthopaedic mattresses and allergic-proof bed accessories fully renovated to satisfy the modern traveller’s demand for for the fussy businessperson. Modern décor and stylishly contemporary interiors and conveniences. Friendly staff will subtle lighting add to the sophisticated atmosphere, and book tickets for shows and theatre, and deliver room service the big comfy beds don’t hurt either. Q31 rooms (singles at all hours of day or night. Q75 rooms (40 singles 1703Hr, 1100 - 1200Hr, doubles 1400Hr, suites 1700Hr, Suite superior 20 junior suites 2006Hr, 12 suites 2510Hr, 3 apartments 1950Hr, Unit 3000Hr). PHAKW 3506Hr, extra bed 205Hr). PHARLKW hhhh ibis Kiev Shevchenko Boulevard G-2, T. Shevchenka President Hotel A-6, H-3, Hospytal’na 12, MPalats bul’v. 25, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 591 22 22, Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 32 56/(+380) 44 256 38 fax (+380) 44 591 22 33, [email protected], www. 56, fax (+380) 44 256 32 53, reserv@president-hotel. ibishotel.com. This beautiful new hotel is one of the best com.ua, presidenthotel.com.ua/en. The President’s sur- we have seen come along in awhile. The décor is a unique roundings are surprisingly tranquil considering its proximity to quasi art-deco-modern design; simple, yet elegant. A decently centre. The hotel has 372 bedrooms of varying comfort and priced restaurant is open from 12:00-23:00 and there is a size (singles, doubles, suites and apartments), a business 24 hour bar. All rooms are fully equipped and range from centre, restaurant, bar, health and beauty complex, under- 680Hr for a double to 2500Hr for a suite with a conference ground parking, airport transfers and even a chauffeur. This area, bar, and king sized bedroom. The staff is very helpful is a popular venue for all sorts of events, and its conference and English speaking. Breakfast 90Hr. Q212 rooms (118 suite has rooms holding as few as 10 or as many as 450 doubles 740 - 990Hr, 72 Twin 740 - 990Hr, 1 Suite 2800Hr, people. Q322 rooms (Standard €72 - 115, Executive €192 21 Family Room 1120 - 1300Hr). PZA6UGK hhh - 240, Junior suite €224 - 280, Suite €272 - 340, Apartment €480 - 600). POHARFLGKDCW hhhh Impressa D-3, Sahaidachnoho 21, MPoshtova Plos- cha, tel. (+380) 44 239 29 39, fax (+380) 44 463 79 Royal Hotel and Beauty Club De Paris A-5, Chervono- 02, [email protected], www.impressa.com. armiyska 5, 3rd floor of Arena City, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. ua. We readily agree with Impressa’s claim to be the city’s (+380) 44 237 88 89/(+380) 63 237 08 88, tour@rhg. “best small luxury hotel”, with each of the rooms attentively com.ua, www.royaldeparis.com. This lavishly decorated hotel and delightfully decorated in different soft colours. The fresh is in the very heart of Kiev. There are many historical and cultural and complimentary bathrobe and slippers are especially landmarks as well as many boutiques and shops within walking nice touches, as well as minibar and 36-channel satellite TV. distance. There is a wonderful Beauty Club with hairdressers, All rooms are €160 on the weekend. Q18 rooms (Standard Filipino, Thai, Spanish massages, and many other services €120 - 175, Superior €140 - 210, Suite €170 - 230, Apartment are available. Q11 rooms (Business €123 - 145, Junior suite €230 - 270). PARULGK hhhh €141 - 166, Suite €159 - 187, amartment €181 - 213). hhhh

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 17

Rus A-6, Hospytal’na 4, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 256 40 00/(+380) 44 256 40 20, fax (+380) 44 256 40 05, [email protected], www.hotelrus.kiev. ua. For football fans who are allergic to crowds, the rooms on the upper floors of the Rus are perfect, offering superb views of Olympic Stadium. The prices, which vary depending on the number of guests in a room, aren’t cheap, and both singles and doubles are a bit small. They are smart and well furnished however, and the hotel boasts no fewer than seven restaurants. There is also a business centre and three con- ference halls are at your disposal. Prices are cheaper at the weekends, and there are discounts for long stays. Q450 rooms (Standard 900 - 1290Hr, Business class 1270 - 1390Hr, Suite 1770 - 4000Hr). PHARLGKW hhh Apartment hotels Khreschatyk Guest House B-5, Khreschatyk 29/1, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 253 31 30/(+380) 67 508 66 86/(+380) 44 332 23 75/(+380) 44 235 60 50, [email protected], www.kiev-hotel. at.ua. Khreschatyk Guest House offers its guests spacious comfortable accommodation which is appropriate and ac- cessible for both long-term and one-night stays. Apartments are fully equipped and furnished, with kitchen and bathroom, ranging in size from one to three rooms. Reception service available 24/7, making you feel at home during your stay. Q one-room 70 - 90US$, two-room 95 - 110US$, three room 135 - 160US$, four room 200US$). PARW Greguar Apartments H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 67/7, MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 498 97 90/(+380) 44 498 97 91, fax (+380) 44 498 9791, [email protected], www.greguar.com.ua. Recently opened in the Centre built to International standards, 45 executive apartments with kitchens. Many professional services available to cater to the business traveler. A real French patisserie on the premises. Q45 rooms (15 singles 110US$, 24 doubles 140US$, 3 junior suite 180US$, 3 suite 200 - 220US$). From $110 per night single, $140 double. Senator Apartments City Center A-3, Pyrohova 6, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 200 77 55, fax (+380) 44 200 77 33, [email protected], www. senator-apartments.com.ua. This serviced apartment complex occupies a newly renovated historical building in centre. It includes 27 fully furnished luxury apartments of 1-4 rooms. All apartments are designed by a well-known international architect and equipped with everything required for a long stay. Modern kitchen, washer/dryer, high-speed Internet access, satellite TV, spa baths and 42’’ plasma TVs are available. The comfort of your stay is supported by a multilingual front desk staff, housekeeping services, 24/7 security, doorman and free on-site parking. The other build- ing of Senator Apartments is at G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 62/20, tel. (+380) 44 220 05 55. Q Apartments available for rent: 1 room - €115-130, 2 rooms from €235-250, 4 rooms from €470-500. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable.27 rooms (apartments €130 - 225). PTHARL Senator Apartments Executive Court G-2, Dmytrivska 62/20, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 220 05 55, fax (+380) 44 220 03 33, executivecourt@ senator-apartments.com, www.senator-apartments. com. Located in a newly constructed building in a quiet neighborhood on the edge of downtown, the Executive Court property includes all the great amenities as the City Center location. The advantage of this locale is its close proximately to supermarkets and the Ukraina shopping mall. Long-term and corporate rates are negotiable. Q apartments €165 - 205. PTHARL kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 18 Where to stay

Sherborne Guest House J-3, Sichnevyi provulok 9, Entuziastiv 1, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93, fax (+380) 44 44 561 11 11/(+380) 44 561 11 12, fax (+380) 44 490 96 99, [email protected], www. 561 11 70, www.hotel-slavutich.com. If you want to stay sherbornehotel.com.ua. Sherborne Guest House located in on what is sometimes known as “Venetian Kyiv” (in fact the one of the city’s best-loved neighbourhoods, Pechersk, near man-made Rusanivs’kyi Island) then head to the Slavutych. historical Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra with dozens of museums The hotel’s façade is not, it has to be said, in great shape, and art galleries provides a range of private fully serviced although the views from inside are wonderful. The cheaper apartments. Hotels Amenities include round-the-clock recep- rooms are rather austere and more depressing than the tion, business services, private laundry and secured parking. brightly-coloured refurbished rooms and suites, eight of which Apartments feature spacious bedroom with king-size bed, come with air-conditioning. Laundry and dry cleaning are marble-tiled bathrooms and fully equipped kitchens. All apart- available. In addition there is a beauty shop, newspaper kiosk ments are air-conditioned and are provided with sky/cable TV, and souvenir stands. Breakfast is not included (65Hr). Q400 security safe and broadband internet access. Q16 rooms rooms (218 singles 329 - 459Hr, 158 doubles 429 - 845Hr, 18 (one-room 125US$, two-room 145 - 165US$, three-room junior suites 999Hr, 6 suites 1100Hr). OHAKC hhh PTARLW 210US$, two-room superior 280US$). Tourist Raisy Okipnoi 2, MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 568 40 17, fax (+380) 44 517 82 53, reservation@ Mid-range hotel-tourist.kiev.ua, hotel-tourist.kiev.ua. A whole army Khreschatik C-4, I-2, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan of tourists could fit into this state-run hotel, which rises up Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 596 80 00, fax (+380) 44 27 storeys for a wonderful view back across the Dnipro 596 80 01, [email protected], www.khreschatik. River of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra and the Motherland statue. kiev.ua/en. Each room at this cracking place is equipped with Tourist has various standards of rooms, some of which have telephone, satellite TV, refrigerator and air-conditioning. Given the air-conditioning. The suites are spacious and contain two location, in the heart of the business district, the tranquillity of TVs, a hot pot and tea cups, while the entire 10th floor is the place is remarkable. The Khreschatik boasts two conference no-smoking. Breakfast included. Q377 rooms (singles 498 rooms, a business centre, a currency-exchange desk, guarded - 786Hr, doubles 590 - 870Hr, Junior suite 1116 - 1300Hr). parking and Wi-Fi Internet can be accessed in the lobby. Weekend POHAFLKD hhh rates are a great value. Q130 rooms (singles 765 - 850Hr, dou- Ukraine C-4, I-2, Instytuts’ka 4, MKhreschatyk, tel. bles 882 - 980Hr, suites 1125 - 2200Hr). PHALW hhh (+380) 44 278 66 75/(+380) 44 279 03 47, fax (+380) Kozats’kiy C-4, H-2, Mykhailivs’ka 1/3, MMaidan 44 279 13 53, [email protected], www. Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 49 25/(+380) 44 ukraine-hotel.kiev.ua. The hotel formerly known as Moskva 279 49 14, fax (+380) 44 279 27 09, reservation@ (Moscow) now provides a much more patriotic, if not so kozatskiy.kiev.ua, www.kozatskiy.kiev.ua. Kozats’kyi is modern, backdrop to Maidan Nezalezhnosti. The lobby located in the heart of the Ukrainian capital on Independence is quite old-school, but the rooms have caught up with the Square - the cultural and trade centre of Kyiv. An ideal location times and offer cable TV with movie and Internet service. At- for both business and tourism, access to the city’s extended tractive décor and furniture await you in higher-priced rooms, transportation network, proximity to world renowned sites while the others lack amenities including air-conditioning. and reasonable prices give this venue a remarkable competi- Q373 rooms (singles 695 - 1107Hr, doubles 915Hr, Junior tive advantage. Q130 rooms (57 singles 646Hr, 34 doubles suite 997 - 1117Hr, Suite 1309 - 2518Hr). PHARF� 739 - 875Hr, 29 Junior suite 1199 - 1309Hr, 10 Suite 1368 LGKD hhh - 1478Hr). HAK hh Salyut (Salute) J-3, Ivana Mazepy 11B, MArsenal’na, Budget tel. (+380) 44 494 14 20, fax (+380) 44 280 61 30, Holosiivs’kyi Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 93, MLybids’ka, tel. [email protected], www.salutehotel.kiev.ua. This (+380) 44 259 76 72/(+380) 44 259 76 73, fax (+380) circular structure looks as if it’s about to leave its pod above 44 259 76 46, [email protected], www.hotel- the Dnipro River and spin off into space. Great views of the golos.kiev.ua. In addition to its many nicely-priced rooms, golden cupolas of Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra are afforded from the beautiful trees and lakes of Holosiivskyi Park are a short Salyut’s elegant rooms, which contain satellite TV, refrigerator walk away. The rooms have been renovated and, in addition and hairdryer. All rooms have double beds, so couples and to a flower or potted plant, have a phone and TV. Conference very close friends should have no space problems - which facilities - 204Hr per hour. Breakfast not included. Q196 is more than we can say for the building! Q90 rooms (10 rooms (singles 222 - 486Hr, doubles 384 - 708Hr, triples singles 700Hr, 49 doubles 850 - 1050Hr, 21 Junior suite 486Hr, junior suites 558 - 1395Hr, suites 1074 - 1773Hr). 1250Hr, 10 Suite 1500 - 1800Hr). POHALK hhh PHAULGK hh Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Where to stay 19

Mir Holosiivs’kyi prosp. 70, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) Olga tel. (+380) 44 237 20 06/(+380) 44 233 04 44, 44 520 26 08/(+380) 44 520 26 09, fax (+380) 44 [email protected], www.apartment-kiev.com. 520 26 79, [email protected], www.hotelmir. Nice apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All the necessities for a kiev.ua. This hotel is situated near Holosiyivskiy Park and comfortable life. Double beds, satellite TV, Internet, bathroom, a lake. The scenery of the neighbourhood is lovely. Not far kitchen, music centre, air-conditioners, washing machine, from the hotel is the National Exhibition Centre of Ukraine - a microwave oven, iron, etc. The location is beautiful - around venue for many international exhibitions and a central bus Maidan and Khreschatyk. Q 4 one-room 60 - 65US$, 12 station. Mir offers comfortable “business” and “economy” two-room 65 - 120US$, 2 three-room 100US$, 2 four-room class rooms. Breakfast is not included (90Hr). The restaurant 200 - 250US$. (Ukrainian and European cuisine) offers hotel guests coffee- Q RoomMe - web portal of short-term apartment breaks, lunches, dinners, banquets, etc. 270 rooms rent , tel. (+380) 67 340 81 65, [email protected], (singles 535 - 594Hr, doubles 621 - 690Hr, junior suites 692 www.roomme.net/en/. This portal provides an up-to-date

- 768Hr, suites 927 - 1029Hr, apartments 1091 - 1386Hr). range of apartments in major cities of Ukraine and option to PHARFLK hhh book an apartment online. Customers can use the internal messaging system to get from apartment owner all neces- sary details. Using a recommendation system, clients can Apartment Rental share their opinions of the apartments where they stayed. Apartment Kiev Hotel Service B-5, Khreschatyk Q170 apartments €24 - 115). PAGW 29/1, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 253 31 30/(+380) 67 508 66 86/(+380) 44 332 23 75/(+380) 44 235 60 Hostels 50, [email protected], www.kiev-hotel- Chillout Hostel Kiev H-3, Gorkoho 22B/35, tel. (+380) service.com. Comfortable apartments in the very heart of 93 332 43 06/755 07 11/755 07 11, chillouthostel@ Kyiv on a daily payment basis. Apartment Kyiv Hotel Service gmail.com, www.chillouthostelkiev.com. Chillout is a provides full range of hotel services with luxury, comfort and cool, albeit small, addition to Kyiv’s hostel choices. Rooms friendly atmosphere, Wi-Fi, Satellite TV, fully equipped kitchen, are competitively priced, clean and newly remodelled. Choose 24hrs reception and railway/airport transfer. Q one-room 70 from a private double or a six or eight bed dorm. Located a - 90US$, two-room 95 - 110US$, three room 135 - 160US$, short walk from Shevchenko Park, L’va Tolstoho metro station four room 200US$). AW and Khreschatyk, the neighbourhood is safe and foreigner Grata Apartment Service C-3, Mykhailivs’kyi prov. friendly. Other perks include complimentary breakfast, In- 9A, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 468 07 ternet, laundry, safe, hookah and transportation, tourism 57, fax (+380) 44 238 26 03, [email protected]. and visa information. Q3 rooms (1 doubles 224Hr, 2 6-bed ua, www.accommodation.kiev.ua. A small network of dorm 95Hr). LGW serviced apartments in the very heart of Kyiv. All apartments City Centre C-4, Sofiivs’ka 2, apt. 10 (door code 149), are modern, well furnished, well-equipped and come with MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, cable TV. Drivers and interpreters are also available. Q31 fax (+380) 44 278 52 46, [email protected]. City apartments (10 studio €38 - 72, 16 one-room €45 - 104, 5 Centre located just in one minute from Maidan Nezalezhnsti two-room €78 - 105). A on a quiet street which leads toward St. Sophia Cathedral. Kiev Apartments C-4, Horodets’koho 11, office 34, If you’re aware of the best location, however want to avoid MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 93 685 00 76/ the busiest and most crowded places, this hostel is just for (+380) 68 119 00 75, [email protected], www.ki- you. A wide range of amenities are available including airport evapts.com. Kiev Apartments offers the largest variety of transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi access, satellite TV, coffee fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Kyiv. Apart- and tee. Q7 rooms (1 singles 259Hr, 3 doubles 189 - 307Hr, ments for every taste, budget and style. Free airport pick-up. 1 triples 142Hr, quads 139Hr, 1 5 mix dorm 127Hr, 1 8 mix Q studio 57 - 99US$, one-room 67 - 179US$, two-room 84 dorm 116Hr). - 289US$, three-room 164 - 369US$. PA D’Lux Kiev Hostel B-2, Observatorna 10, apt.6, MZoloti Kiev Apartment Service J-3, Sichneviy Provulok 9 (1st Vorota, tel. (+380) 97 832 88 88/(+380) 44 272 61 77, entrance), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 96 93, ho- [email protected], www.dlux-hostel.com.ua. D’Lux [email protected], www.kievapartmentservice.kiev. Hostel’s located on one of the quietest streets of city centre, ua. Kiev Apartment Service offers a selection of beautifully but it doesn’t mean you wouldn’t find any fun around. A couple designed apartments where you will find all the facilities and of clubs are just in few minutes reach and essential sights in luxury of a 4-star hotel. Every apartment has a contemporary few steps from the hostel. You may wonder how could hostel European design, fitted with exquisite furniture and equipped got D’Lux name? It’s not an exaggeration of owners, the place’s with the usual domestic appliances such as satellite/cable really superior, with Jacuzzi installed in each of two bathrooms TV, Broadband Internet access, stereo systems, complete and a fireplace in a 12-bed dormitory, classy common room kitchens and minibars. Q10 apartments (3 one-room 110 and nice views from both balconies. Q5 rooms (1 doubles - 125US$, 4 two-room 135 - 165US$, 2 three-room 170 - €23, 1 quads €15, 2 8-bed dorm €12, 1 12-bed dorm €11). 280US$). PTARL Kiev for You tel. (+380) 67 242 12 24/(+380) 68 810 87 87, [email protected], www.apkiev.com.ua. Comfortable, clean, fully-furnished domestic apartments in the centre of Kyiv. All are equipped with air-conditioning, Jacuzzi, cable or satellite TV, DVD player, high speed Inter- net and independent hot-water supply. Airport and train station pick-up and accounting receipts are also available. Q 6 one-room 50 - 85US$, 4 two-room 60 - 90US$, 2 three-room 125 - 140US$, 1 four-room 130US$. PAR kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 20 RestauWhere torants stay Restaurants

Down Town B-5, Kropyvnytskoho 12, apt.18 (door code Press Box 12), tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax (+380) 44 278 52 46, [email protected]. Despite the fact that Down Town is lo- “Detailed, carefully researched guides.” cated on a very quiet street behind the Bessarabskyi Market it is Daily Mail just in few steps from the biggest entertainment complex Arena City with a big number of bars and pubs and discos until down. “Solid, reliable information on everything from Choose from double or triple private or 6 bed dormitory. Q3 rooms (1 doubles 186Hr, 1 triples 151Hr, 1 7-mix dorm 115Hr). where to book a reasonable B&B to how best to spend 72 hours in a city.” Dream Hostel A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 47, ML’va Tol- stoho, tel. (+380) 66 244 14 47, booking@dream-hostel. The Guardian com, www.dream-hostel.com. Dream Hostel offers its guests a most unique and friendly atmosphere. To be honest, the hostel “You do not even need to pack a guidebook: owners are friends of our editorial team, however we were even just pick up an In Your Pocket when you arrive.” pickier, in our review of the facilities. After all, believe it or not, Simon Calder Dream Hostel might be considered as the most luxurious hostel The Independent & LBC Radio in Kyiv. Aside from usual, very high standard amenities, your win- dow overlooks Chervonoamiys’ka street and the common room window overlooks the newly renovated Olympic stadium, where “In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series the final match of Euro2012 football championship will take place. of guidebooks.” Breakfast is available for 20Hr. Q4 rooms (1 doubles 189Hr, 1 The New York Times quads 154Hr, 1 8-bed dorm 118Hr, 1 10-bed dorm 118Hr). PW Magic Bus Kyiv H-3, Saksahans’koho 31, app. 3, “Most of the traditional guidebook companies ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 97 336 03 03. When we first now have decent websites, with plenty of advi- entered the place our first thought was “cool, it’s so funny and ce and information either freely available or bright”. Except of red/green/blue walls, there is a terrific… downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com guess what?.. golden toilet! Hostel stuff is very friendly and is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on helpful and rooms are always clean. Due to its location on one of the main traffic streets, it might be a bit noisy outside, both well-known and more offbeat European but we may apply this to a half of Kyiv hostels. Q3 rooms (2 destinations, its free downloadable city and doubles 148Hr, 1 12-bed dorm 95Hr). PW country guides are compiled by locals and Really Central B-4, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 10, apt. 50, regularly updated.” MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 98 263 65 06, fax (+380) 44 The Independent 278 52 46, [email protected]. We might be wrong, but you won’t find more kind and helpful staff in Kyiv hostels than “The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is in Really Central. Located just 3 minutes walk from Khreshatyk that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they and 5 minutes from Independence square this hostel offers an are written by native English speakers living in extensive freebie list which includes tea and coffee, Wi-Fi internet the city they are writing about. That can lend access, clothes washing and drying facilities, luggage storage, excursions to local markets, bars and clubs, local telephone calls, itself to frank, matter-of-fact advice about your train ticket booking, linen and towels and more. Сode from the destination rather than jaded impressions from door 140 press at the same time / second floor. Q3 rooms (1 world-weary professional travel writers.” doubles 184Hr, 1 triples 151Hr, 1 8-mix dorm 127Hr). RLW The Irish Times TIU Khreschatyk C-4, Khreschatyk 8B, apt. 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 50 331 18 47, “With so many European cities now within easy [email protected], www.tiu-kreschatik.kiev. range of a low-cost airline flight, this website is a ua. This quaint little hostel is right in the heart of Kyiv, just a (literally) priceless first stop before your holiday. minute or 2 from Independence Square. Staff is very friendly The guides are free to download and print off as and English speaking. There is a room for 10 and a room for 2. The kitchen is spacious and fully equipped, and the “liv- pdfs and have information on where to eat and ing room” is quite comfortable with round the clock internet. stay and what to see on European city breaks.” Everything is very clean as all wear slippers. Prices from 9 The Times Euro per night with many excursions and “pick up“ services available. Q (1 doubles 177Hr, 1 10-bed dorm 142Hr). PW “In Your Pocket guides are each written by an Why not? H-3, Saksahanskoho 30/3, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. English language writer who lives locally. All (+380) 63 867 78 28, [email protected], www. information is also available on the publisher’s whynothostels.com. The day we first came to this hostel it website.” was greeting its first guests, still being on small renovation. Now Sueddeutsche Zeitung when all works are done it welcomes everyone with 6 rooms each uniquely designed. If you have only a few days in Ukraine, but want to explore the whole country - this hostel is just for you. Stay “The In Your Pocket series of guide booklets at industrial 10 bed dorm to feel yourself somewhere in Donetsk have turned out to be highly useful in avoiding or choose a 6 bed dorm of coupe room and imagine travelling by tourist traps and other travel hazards. A mix of Ukrainian trains. Soviet room or forest one, or maybe the rocket Lonely Planet and Time Out, they have become room, whichever you choose you’ll get the high standard service a European publishing phenomenon.” and common set of amenities, including free breakfast and Wi-Fi, International Herald Tribune laundry service, information support, etc. Smoking is allowed only in basement. Q6 rooms (1 doubles €30, 2 quads €11, 1 twin €28, 1 8-bed dorm €10, 1 10-bed dorm €8). PGW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Restaurants 21 Ukrainian Blinoff H-4, Chervonoarmiyska 65, tel. (+380) 50 417 40 27, www.blinoff.ua. A traditional Ukrainian restaurant with several cosy rooms. One feels as if in a village home, with lots of Knick knacks memorabilia from the “old days”. The menu contains Slavic, Ukrainian and European cuisine. The prices seem lower than we expected; a pleasant surprise. There are banquet faculties and a wedding party was going on when we were there. They seemed very much at home. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PABTW Kult RA C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 4, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 331 59 48, www.kultra.org. This is a journey to sacred world of Oryan cuture. The staff wears traditional costumes and speaks some English. The décor is “early Ukrainian”, like being in an old village. There is nothing on the menu that was not in the “Pagan” times, hence no tomatoes or potatoes. The organic menu is reasonably priced and in English. A specialty is the mustached cat fish fillet smoked in for 106Hr. We tried the fried trout in herbs with beets and celery and found it great! There are homemade liquors and Ceriman herbal teas to enjoy. The place is absolutely non-smoking. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW Koza Dereza A-1, Artema 52A, MLukianivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 486 00 40, www.kozadereza.kiev.ua. This is known as a ‘restaurant-market’. The cuisine is traditional Ukrainian and only fresh, natural products and ingredients are used in the kitchen. Guests are urged to submit their favourite recipe and it may just end up on the menu. They constantly check out new suppliers and are always on the lookout to buy homemade products. The menu is in English and the staff was very friendly and their English was superb. An average meal cost 150-200Hr and is worth every kopek. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. PALGXW Mitla B-4, Prorizna 21, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 05 48, www.mitla.com.ua. A very traditional Ukrain- ian experience right near the Golden Gate. The menu is in Quick, cheap & tasty English and very reasonably priced! We sampled the borsch and varenyky and were not disappointed! There is seating for Puzata D-2, Kontraktova pl. 2/1, MKon- 80 with live music on Fridays and Saturdays. Private functions traktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 391 46 99, are welcomed. Breakfast is from 15Hr and business lunches www.puzatahata.com.ua. It is a great place for from 43Hr. To enjoy a real Ukrainian experience, visiting Mitla breakfast, lunch, or even dinner with your sweetheart, is a must! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGXSW and there are a wide variety of pastries on the second Shynok I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28V, MPechers’ka, floor. For people who know almost nothing about tel. (+380) 44 285 57 77, www.karta.ua. Right at the Ukrainian food and are not sure if it is worth spending entrance of the restaurant guests face small Ukrainian folk a lot of money in a restaurant to find out what Ukrain- museum, with a lot different interesting exhibits. Delicious ians like the most, it is a good opportunity for a trial smells of fresh bakery, home-made and other dishes taste. Besides, you will find yourself in a real Ukrainian will not leave you indifferent. Shynok presents rich Ukrainian peasant house, so, enjoy! Also at B-4, Khreschatyk country cuisine. There is a wide selection of home-made 15/4, Passage; H-3, Chervonoarmiys‘ka 40; B-5, liqueurs nastoyanka. And also Shynok - is a perfect place Baseina 1/2, Bessarabska pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. to celebrate family holidays and tasty excursions for foreign PAGSW friends. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. PTALEGS Tsarske Selo (Tsarist Village) J-4, Ivana Mazepy 42/1, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 66, www. tsarske.kiev.ua. A bit expensive, but the colourful village Symbol key décor and traditional singing are quite entertaining, especially if you have no plans to go near a real Ukrainian village. The P Air-conditioning E Live music food is traditional and tasty, and don’t forget to take your 6 Animal friendly M Nearest station picture with the man laid out but still clutching a jug of spirits. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALE T Child friendly G Non-smoking areas Varenichnaya #1 A-5, Esplanadna 28, MPalats Sportu, A Credit cards accepted X Smoking section tel. (+380) 44 287 15 39, www.2k.ua. From its opening, U Facilities for the disabled S Take away Varenichnaya #1 became a favourite for many. To Kyivites it seems that this restaurant has always been a feature near the I Fireplace B Terrace Palace of Sport! At the entrance you will be met by a charming L Guarded parking W Wi-Fi internet access decorative pig called Varvara. There are three halls decorated in a picturesque Philistine style of the early 20th century, and a V Home delivery summer terrace. QOpen 24hrs. PTALGBS kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 22 Restaurants

Caucasian Much more reviews Ani H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 72, MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380) 44 590 25 65. This restaurant is situated on the top floor of one on Kyiv restaurants are available at of Kyiv’s downtown “skyscrapers”. There is room for big parties kyiv.inyourpocket.com and for romantic couples. The olma, cofta, tender leg of lamb baked in tomato sauce, hachapuri, and lavash are delicious and served in style. The open kitchen allows you to observe an expe- rienced chef work his culinary magic, while live music played on unique national instruments will wake amazing emotions in your Eating in the Dark soul. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALEGBSW Mimino D-2, Spas’ka 10A, MKontraktova Ploscha, Dark Side D-3, Ihorivska 14A, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 35 45, www.karta.ua. This Georgian tel. (+380) 44 428 88 38, www.darkside.kiev.ua. restaurant got its name from the popular Soviet movie Opened January, 2012, this unique restaurant has a very Mimino. There are delicious hachapuris, shashliks and true unusual theme; guests eat in complete darkness. The Georgian fish and meat dishes. The Chief masterfully accom- servers make no mistakes as they are equipped with night modates the ancient Georgian national cuisine to a modern vision goggles. The first “dark” restaurant opened in Paris in taste. There is also live music. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. 2004 and has since spread around the world. The concept PAUILEGBXSW is that diners get the most out of their food by concentrating solely on the food; that the darkness is able to change your ideas about food. There are 3 menus offered, green, red, Chinese & blue which consist of meat, fish, & vegetables. The price China White I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 24, MPechers’ka, for each dish is 240Hr. which includes mineral water, other tel. (+380) 44 594 21 75, www.2k.ua. This restaurant is a drinks may be ordered, and there is music being played. marvelous maze hidden behind a glass façade. The magnificent For those wanting a “normal” restaurant, it is that too. The wardrobe and bar, and the sensational staircase leading to surroundings are of medieval design, the menu is in English the seven different dining rooms bestow a sense of exclusive and the cuisine is European. Some of the specialties are simplicity. The food is good, and you will find a mix of Japanese, the baked cod which we found great, for 200Hr. and a great Chinese, and European cuisine on the menu. For the full Chinese selection of Italian cheese. The average price for a meal is experience go for the round table: you and 11 of your closest about 250Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PAGW friends will fit around it. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGS Lun Van B-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 26, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 81 91. Lun Van offers arguably the most American savoury and authentic Chinese in town. The beef and chicken stir- Arizona BBQ D-3, Naberezhno-Khreschatyts’ka 25, fry are excellent and the spicy veal will definitely have you reaching MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 38. Kyiv’s for your beer, eyes watering. Friendly and efficient service has first expat hangout has excellent burgers, Mexican food and become a trademark. The private dining room accommodates a 49Hr business lunch. American pool and darts keep the up to 12 and is ideal for business luncheons, larger dinner groups adults happy, while children’s parties are held every Sunday and families with noisy children. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. 11:00 - 12:30 and 15:00 - 16:30. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. €€€. PTABSW European Goodman Steak House G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, J-3, Heroiv Krut aleya 1 (Slavy pl.), MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 596 00 00, www.goodman. Belvedere MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 288 50 70. The only ru. Goodman Steak House is part of a European chain known restaurant in Kyiv offering perfect views of the city, entirely, for its top quality, American cut steaks. The restaurant is therefore, justifying its name. You can see the Dnipro River, located near the railway station in a new office complex. The Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra, Podil and the whole of the left bank décor is modern, brown wood giving it a pleasant atmosphere. with its modern buildings. The restaurant’s interior and The menu has a lot to do with steak. One item we enjoyed is patio have been built in steps so that nobody misses out the “set menu chateau for 2”. It consists of a spinach pie, a on the view. Such attention to detail is found in the food too. very large steak and 2 side dishes, it was 700Hr and we felt it Q PTAULGBS well worth it. An average meal here cost around 320Hr. There Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€€. is a businessman’s lunch from 12-16, costing 110-115Hr. The Déjà vu A-3, Bohdana Khmelnytskoho 30, MTeatralna, English menu was simple to understand and most of the staff tel. (+380) 44 235 98 02, www.dejavulegend.com. One spoke English well. On Saturday and Sunday there is “Fam- has to see this place to believe it! There are 11 choppers and ily time”. This is where parents can bring their children and lots of rock and celebrity memorabilia scattered throughout leave them to play game, wear costumes and have lots of the place. There are 2 private rooms for 12; one a Beatles supervised fun. QOpen 12:00 - 00:00. PTA6GXW theme and the other a rock theme.A typical meal runs be- tween 100-200Hr with a 30% discount between 12:00-17:00. T.G.I. Friday’s A-5, Bessarabs’ka pl. 5A, MKhres- There is live music nightly with a 50Hr cover charge. This chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 235 42 64, www.fridays.com.ua/ is an experience you won’t forget. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. en. Famous for decades all over the world and synonymous with great value and good times, this chain restaurant is a Freedom L-4, Frunze 134, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 real piece of Americana in the heart of Kyiv. Friday’s attracts 468 32 32, www.freedomhall.com.ua. Round the clock expats longing for familiar food, which comes in huge portions food and drink is available from the restaurant & bar. There at reasonable prices and is served by the best staff in the city. is no English menu and the staff seems to have little inter- Visitors will find the Kyiv menu has more salads and grilled est in speaking English. The concert hall is huge and big than the Stateside version. The wine list is terrific and name groups and DJ’s from Ukraine and abroad perform the cocktails (there are more than 400 of them) will speak most, but not all nights. The entrance fee to the hall varies. for themselves. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGS QOpen 24hrs. PTALEGBSW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 23

Leto I-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 56, MRespublikans’kyi Stadion, tel. (+380) 44 287 10 73, www.2k.ua. The thing that sets Leto apart from other cafés and restaurants on Chervonoarmiis’ka is the inviting interior and even more inviting prices. The juicy lamb kebob seasoned with Crimean and the specialty pelmeni (Russian-style dumplings) come highly recommended. Choose from other local and Euro- Han-Gang pean favorites such as borsht, veal cutlets and stewed rabbit. Tasty breakfasts are served until 12:00 - perfect timing for the Korean Japanese Restaurant late-to-rise night owl. Both part of the Kozirnaya Karta chain, the similarities between Leto’s and M. Oliv’e’s menus are uncanny, but we definitely recommend both. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALGBSW maLLina café D-3, Sahaidachnogo 27B, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 45 08, www.mallinapro- ject.com.ua. This easy to find oasis is on the main street in busy Podil. Once inside however, one feels far away from Doenjang-jjigae Dongtae-jjigae the hustle and bustle of the city. There are sofas and easy chairs downstairs for 50. This is the smoking section where 도스비드를 통하여 호텔을 hookahs can be rented. Up the very steep and old fashioned 예약하신분은 저희 식당에서 조식을 attic stairs is a cozy non smoking section for about 22. It makes one feel more at home then in a restaurant. There 하시면됩니다(오전7시부터) are jars of raspberry (mallina) compote everywhere. Why the fuss about raspberry’s? It’s do with the Russian proverb that Beautiful view of the Dnipro River roughly translates; “Life is like a raspberry”, or “It’s a good Two VIP rooms with karaoke life”. Aside from the European, Home-made and Japaneese cuisines, there is a separate section on the menu devoted to The re ned taste of Korean cuisine raspberry, including fillet minion. The prices are reasonable and the service warm and friendly .Come when the weather Free Wi-Fi Internet warm and sit outside under lovely trees where there is room 1, Entuziastiv Str., Slavutich Hotel, 16 oor for 70. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGBXSW Tel. 294 14 14 MiReDo C-4, Khreschatyk 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, Open 11:00 - 24:00 tel. (+380) 44 360 85 68. A great place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city. Located right in the centre of Kyiv, this oasis is guaranteed to bring relaxation from a busy day. The décor is modern yet soothing. There is a breakfast menu and a standard business lunch from 12:00-16:00 Korean for 50Hr. The main menu is European and Mediterranean cuisine and an average meal goes for about 300Hr. There Han Gang Entuziastiv 1, Slavutych Hotel, 16 floor, are seasonal specials and a discount scheme available. MLivoberezhna, tel. (+380) 44 294 14 14, www. As the name is synonymous with music, there is live music han-gang.com.ua. Getting to this restaurant takes a weekday, Monday-Friday. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun small effort. Hop over the Dnipro to the left bank and 10:00 - 23:00. PALVGX the Slavutych Hotel, ascend to the 16th floor and turn right out of the lift. Once inside you’ll discover that the Shnitzel I-3, Gusovskoho 12/7, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 280 41 14, www.karta.ua. When I mentioned minor travel hassle was well worth it. The panoramic this place to a German acquaintance, a small tear welled view of the right bank and the stunning domes of Kyivo- up in the corner of his eye. “I miss my Mutter’s schnitzel,” Pechers’ka Lavra is arguably the best in the city. Skip he explained. I took this to be a wonderful compliment and the Japanese and order the Korean - you won’t be disap- went to try for myself. This is a no-brainer for pork/beer lov- pointed. Karaoke is available. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. ers - schnitzel, bratwurst, schweinshaxe (pork knuckles in PAGSW a crusty skin), lagers and ales. Though this may or may not Hankookkwan Zheliabova 10A, MShuliavs’ka, be the best place for homesick German boys, it’s definitely tel. (+380) 44 458 45 14/(+380) 50 387 71 92. a top pick for the rest of us. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€. Hankookkwan means “Korean house”; a fitting name PAULVGXS for a new restaurant offering authentic Korean cuisine. Tarelka (Plate) G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 62/20, MLukyanivs’ka, Located just outside of centre, 10 minutes walk from tel. (+380) 44 220 20 60. The unique thing about Tarelka is the Shuliavs’ka metro station, the restaurant is rela- that you get all the great food without the loud, smoky, drunken tively easy to find. Exit the metro on the north side of crowds typical for some of Kyiv’s restaurants. Being at Tarelka Peremohy prosp. and head past Economic University is like being at the home of a great friend, enjoying a good meal to Zheliabova Street. Though the Korean dishes are and your favourite beverage. The menu is in English and offers not to be missed, the menu also features a delicious European cuisine and a bar offering gourmet pastas along with a selection of Japanese favourites. This is a fine choice wide variety of salads, sandwiches, snacks. Except an excellent for lunch, as seating with a view is easy to find. The food, you can play table games or watch football broadcasts private dining hall that accommodates up to 10 is per- on large screens and have fun all the time. Live lounge music, fect for business luncheons and small dinner parties. banquet reservations for up to 20 and a cosy VIP room are avail- QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAGS able. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALGXS kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 24 Restaurants

French Indian BaзAAR Braserie B-5, Besarabska pl. 2, MKhreschatyk, Buddha-bar C-4, Khreschatyk 14, MMaidan Nezalezh- tel. (+380) 44 238 21 11, www.bazaar.kiev.ua. This is nosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 76 76, www.buddhabar.com. a fairly new restaurant (Summer 2011) with a lovely modern ua. Buddha Bar is a heavy hitter all over Europe and is now French design and located in the same building as the famous enjoying similar success in Ukraine’s capital. It’s safe to say Besarabska market. In fact, one can get a table with a bird’s that this is the trendiest establishment in Kyiv. The recipe for eye view of the market below. See something you like in the their popularity is simple, high quality in a flashy package. For market, buy it, bring it up and have the kitchen prepare it while a one-stop-all-inclusive-evening this ranks high on the list of you wait. Or enjoy a dish from the menu specialising in French & possibilities. Enjoy hard to find Indian, Thai and Chinese in the Italian cuisine. There is an English menu and staff speaks some restaurant, and then head to the bar or the VIP lounge. If you’d English as well. There is also a lovely cheese platter to hold you like to get a sneak peak of what’s in store for you, check out while you wait. We tried the duck breast with caramel apples Buddha’s very professional website. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, for 190Hr and really enjoyed it! An average meal will run you Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. €€€€. PALG about 250Hr-300Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PAGXSW Himalaya B-4, Khreschatyk 23, MKhreschatyk, tel. Café de Paris C-2, Andriivs’kyi Uzviz 34B, MKontraktova (+380) 44 270 54 37. Scale the heights of Indian cuisine Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 221 22 18, www.cafe-de-paris.com. at this quiet restaurant above the hustle and bustle of Khres- ua. This café offers a quiet retreat from the crowded bustle of chatyk. The selections include tandoori dishes cooked in an Adriivs’kyi uzviz. The interior is in vogue, but the patrons are from original clay oven at 300°C, chicken lollipop and authentic all walks of life. Though elusive, tables near the window come Indian cheese. They also boast a new 65Hr business lunch with pie sliced views of the street and Andriivs’ka tserkva (St. menu every week. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. €€. PAW Andrew’s Church). The homemade and signature salads Nirvana I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. 28V, MPechers’ka, are steaming and fresh, and the roast rack of lamb, roast duck and tel. (+380) 44 285 52 15, www.2k.ua. Kyiv waited a long grilled salmon in a sweet chilli sauce are just a few of the menu’s time to get a restaurant like this. The design, interior, and the highlights. Breakfast service begins at 09:00, and there’s plenty cuisine completely complement the name: this really is dining of space for large groups. QOpen 24hrs. PTALGS Nirvana. Indian extravagance and cultural richness - not to new mention the delicious and authentic food - are enough to put Citronelle A-3, B.Khmelnytskoho 23, MZoloti Vorota, anyone’s soul in a state of bliss. There are traditional Indian, tel. (+380) 44 499 39 36, www.citronelle.com.ua. This modern European and a decent number of vegetarian dishes is a contemporary French restaurant right near the opera. The on the menu. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALEGW décor is bright & modern. It has a romantic atmosphere with candles and French music in the background. They have been open since December, 2011 and already have quite a clien- International tele. We had the roast lamb with aubergine and spicy veggies Antwerpen A-5, Pushkin’ska 38, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. which cost 159Hr. An average meal runs about 250Hr. There is (+380) 44 234 13 00, www.antwerpen.com.ua. Have you a breakfast menu costing around 80Hr offering great omelets ever wanted to travel back in time? Here is your chance to visit from 08:30-12:00. QOpen 08:30 - 00:00. PAGSW Antwerp as it once was. You will know you are in the right place Crêpe de Chine G-2, Hoholivs’ka 25, MUniversytet, tel. when you see a lovely 1956 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith in the yard. (+380) 537 70 70, www.2k.ua. This charming restaurant There is a French room, A Belgium room and a German room, as specializes in French crêpes. The menu includes soups, salads, well as smaller rooms with the themes of hunting and sailing. This a full Ukrainian and American breakfast, and following the trend unique restaurant is definitely a “must see”. There is a wonder- today in Kyiv, a sushi menu. We tried the caramel, peach and ful collection of antique masterpieces, paintings and sculptures crepe which was delicious! The crêpe’s range from made of bronze by Flemish, French and German artists who in 60Hr. upwards depending on the fillings. There is also a lovely different times lived and created their masterpieces in Antwerp. international wine list. The pine décor is quite charming and The menu is in English and the staff is easy to communicate with. relaxing. There is a smoking and a non-smoking section as well An average meal runs around 350Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, as a supervised children’s room on weekends. Menus are in Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PALGW English and the staff was very friendly and most spoke English. BEEF Meat & Wine A-5, Shota Rustaveli 11, MPalats QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 225 00 35, www.beef.kiev.ua/en. Fellini C-4, Horodets’koho 5, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) A very large and modern complex. The staff is warm, friendly, 44 279 54 62. A wonderful location for people-watching, as and English speaking. The decor is modern and spacious. The the two terraces overlook the fashionable Ukraina cinema just prices are defined as luxurious, from 300-600+Hr. There is a off Khreschatyk. Fellini offers delicious French and Italian food, somewhat discounted lunch menu. The dishes we ordered including frog legs and goose liver for those who likes such were top notch and delicious. You might wait a while on Friday’s delicacies. The food and drinks are rather expensive, and evening, but we sure this experience worth it. There are 3 service can be slow. QOpen 24 hrs. €€€. ALW large TV screens and WiFi, and there is a banquet room for 50. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGBXW Vernissage C-2, Andriivskyi Uzviz 30, tel. (+380) 44 425 24 03, www.vernissagecafe.com/en. A recreation of a Pa- Mai-Tai Lounge H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 66, MOlimpiis’ka, risian bistro in the heart of Kyiv. Much of the décor is imported tel. (+380) 44 583 55 53, www.maitai.com.ua. Enter Mai- from France as is the large selection of wine. The cuisine is Tai and find yourself in the midst of a South Pacific Experience! French, European, and Ukrainian and overseen by a real French This oasis of South Pacific culture belongs to the legendary chain Chef. There is the main menu, a special “seasonal” menu (both of “Trader Vic”. In fact the drink Mai-Tai was invented by the origi- in English), and a “business lunch” (Russian only) menu. The nal founder, Victor Bergeron in 1944. There are always special French-style meat courses change monthly. We tried the large events going on such as ladies nights, fashion parties and aloha and lovely Chevre Salad with warm goat’s cheese for 98Hr. and Friday’s. Cocktails are reasonably priced, meals slightly pricey. really enjoyed it. Also at B-2, Artema 10, tel. (+380) 44 272 20 A specialty is the ‘sushi boats’; you have to see it to believe it! 03; A-1, Turgenevs’ka 15, tel. (+380) 44 484 46 96. QOpen There are exotic business lunches available weekdays from 11:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PAGXSW 13:00-16:00 for only 59Hr. Sometimes there is a cover charge for parties and events. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PALW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 25

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 26 Restaurants

Shapito G-2, Honchara 77, tel. (+380) 44 486 45 21. Pizza As the name Shapito translates “circus tent” it’s no surprise that this lovely restaurant and neighbouring café are just a few hundred meters from Kyiv’s famous circus. Aside from being a first class restaurant, there is also a children’s hall, clown show and exotic animals. The cuisine is International, the menu in English and most staff is fluent in English. We started with the salad “Alicia” with fried scallops, pawns, onions, and avocados for just 95Hr. Then we had the salmon in mustard cream sauce with scrimp for 135Hr. An average meal will run about 200Hr and upwards. An experience at Shapiro is well worth the visit! QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAGXS Tarantino D-2, Sahaidachnoho 35, MKontraktova Plos- cha, tel. (+380) 44 463 73 90, www.tarantino.kiev.ua. A unique experience named in honour of the American actor- director Quentin Tarantino. This is supposedly the “1st Budget Club” in Kyiv. The décor is modern-Hollywoodish on two floors. The menu is reasonably priced and in English. The staff was very friendly and fluent in English. There are Italian, European, and Sushi dishes. We tried the pepper steak with porcini sauce for 155Hr; delicious! There is a DJ Thursday-Sun 19:00-24 and Karaoke Thurs-Sat 24:00-06:00. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu, Bocconcino B-6, Mechnikova 2, Parus Busi- Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PA6IEGXSW ness Centre, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 593 37 10, www.2k.ua. A restaurant and a pizzeria, very Italian modern and sweet venue of Italian type - reasonable prices, stylish interior, tasty dishes and light atmosphere. Al Faro H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 49A, MOlimpiis’ka, tel. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri 09:00 - 04:00, Sat 11:00 - (+380) 44 503 50 91, [email protected], www.alfaro. 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTALGS com.ua. Authentic Italian fare in the heart of Kyiv...someone pinch us, we must be dreaming. Choose from a variety of Celentano B-2, Yaroslaviv Val 37, MZoloti Vorota, classic dishes including fresh leafy salads, lasagne, penne, tel. (+380) 44 272 54 62, www.pizza-celentano. spaghetti, grilled salmon and ribs. The authentic Italian-style com. Power to the people! This expanding pizzeria chain pizzas come topped with fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, pro- champions democracy by granting patrons the choice of sciutto, oregano, etc., and are baked next to an open flame their own favourite toppings from a wide range of pos- in an old-style oven (take-out available). We sampled the sibilities. Various salads and French crêpes with different linguini with pesto, which is hands down the best in Kyiv. The fillings are also on offer, all to a pleasant background of were nice and firm - “Al dente, perfetto!” as they say in Italian music. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PLGX Sicily. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTJAUIEGBK Momento Pizzeria and Restaurant F-4, Da Vinci Fish Club C-3, Volodymyrs’ka 12, MZoloti Vo- Zlatoustivs’ka 2/4, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 rota, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 34/(+380) 50 469 91 52, www. 486 35 06, www.momento.kiev.ua. We ordered a da-vinci.com.ua. Italian fish restaurant is located in the historical pizza, but a calzone arrived at the table. The waiter as- centre of Kyiv. The interior is very original - a round bar on the first sured us that this was the “pizza” we had ordered. Our floor with a cosy balcony on the second. The most attractive disappointed didn’t last for long - the mysterious pizzone features are the two aquariums teaming with live lobsters, flambé is actually quite tasty. The wine selection is ample, the dishes, pizza from the original Italian oven and, of course, fresh salads are crisp and the oregano sprinkled throughout the fish and seafood. Da Vinci Fish Club offers great business lunch calzone was a nice Italian touch. Open until 03:00, this is a specials (12:00 - 16:00) and live music every evening (except great perch-post for night-owls. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. €. Sundays) from 20:00 - 23:00.Da Vinci Fish Club also invites you Spagetti Pizzeria G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v. to attend master classes by its magnificent chef Salvatore De 44, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 234 51 81. A nice cosy Vivo. For more details and master classes schedule contact the Italian restaurant in a central location with mellow Italian restaurant. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PALEBW music in the background. There is an open kitchen which new adds to the uniqueness. The food is pretty authentic Italian Gorilla J-4, Lesi Ukrainky bulv. 34А, MPechers’ka, tel. considering there is no Italian chef. We had Caesar salad (+380) 44 585 41 20. Located in an underground passage, and spaghetti carbonara which tasted pretty much like and just recently opened, the “Gorilla” was a pleasant surprise. the real thing. The prices are very reasonable, and there is Why it’s called Gorilla, no one knows, it really is an authentic always a daily special. The menu is in English and the staff Italian restaurant as the chef comes from Naples. The menu is friendly.There is also a business lunch from 12:00-16:00 is in English with an average meal costing 250Hr. We tried the costing 69Hr. (Beware when asking for parmesan-you will Milanese cutlet for 115Hr. which we thoroughly enjoyed. The pay for it dearly.) QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PALG service was great and communication no problem. There is Pizzeria Napulè B-6, Mechnykova 9, MKlovs’ka, business lunch weekdays from 12:00-17:00 for just 47Hr. The tel. (+380) 44 495 92 63, www.napule.com.ua/ restaurant holds 90 & with a VIP room 30 which is ideal for en/. This place is as authentic as it gets. A pizzaiolo private functions. Yet it’s more than a restaurant. Famous rock from Naples (Giuseppe Irollo), a wooden stove built by groups & stars of the 60’s & 70’s cover the walls. There is a a Neapolitan master (Stefano Ferrara) from Neapolitan stage where rock bands perform Thursday through Saturday materials, about 20 kinds of pizza made with special from 19:00-22:00. Gorilla is also known for karaoke. Sunday is Neapolitan flour and real Neapolitan cuisine from Adelaide free for all; Monday-Wednesday, girls are free until 00:00 and Zazzaro. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PALG guys pay 100Hr; Thursday, Friday & Saturday it’s 150 for all. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PALGXW

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants 27

La Cantina B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 20, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 70 74, www.la-catania.com.ua. A nice Russian little cafe-restaurant close to the Golden Gate. There is an Krendel G-2, Pavlivska 17, tel. (+380) 44 585 98 97. English menu and nice background music. It’s not so big, holds The decor is “pre-Soviet”, that is Russian aristocracy with about 40. It has a lovely design and reminds one of being a French flavour. This is a “family” restaurant, which is actu- in Italy. Their specialty is stone-grilled meats; steak, turkey, ally a photo gallery/museum of one family, whose relative, chicken, and scrimp. We really enjoyed the turkey breast steak Evgeny Paton, built the in Kyiv in 1953 which with garlic and curry for 89Hr. An average meal runs about at the time, was the longest bridge in Europe. There is no 350Hr-400Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAG English menu, the cuisine is Russian and they make their own new homemade bread & pastries. We tried the veal sirloin with Mana B-4, Volodymyrska 49A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) aubergine for 153Hr and were really pleased with it. They 44 569 56 43, www.manabar.com.ua. Opened in 2011, this also make their own pelmeni with unique, delicious stuffing. spacious restaurant is just across the street from the Opera. An average meal will cost around 300 Hr. From 12:00-15:00, There are pairs of large settees with coffee tables between them there is a 25% discount, and those celebrating their birthday spread around the very large room mixed in between dining ta- get a 20% discount. For a romantic dinner there is live guitar bles. It makes for a sort of informal/formal atmosphere. There is music every Friday night from 19:00-22:00. QOpen 09:00 also a small banquet room for private functions. The English menu - 22:00. PTGW is of French/Italian cuisine. One of the specialties is that one can chose from many different fish and have your dish “custom- cooked”, to your exact wishes. An average meal costs 300-350Hr. Gastronomic and there is a business lunch weekdays from 12:00-16:00 cost- ing just 75Hr. There is live music every Friday at 19:30 and for art Barsuk I-4, Kutuzova prov. 3A, MPecherska, tel. lovers, there always different paintings on display which may be (+380) 50 386 36 29, www.barsuk.kiev.ua. Barsuk purchased. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJALEGW offers a tastefully presented, pallet pleasing range of European and local dishes. Freshness is this restaurant’s Oliva D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. recipe to success and is on display in the carefully chosen (+380) 44 463 75 92, www.oliva.com.ua. With its fresh selection of salads, the fresh pastas smothered with your and lively atmosphere, Olive has become a local favourite. choice of signature sauce and steaming steaks and sea- To get a better idea of what to expect, imagine your favourite food. This place is loaded with extras including an Italian/ hometown coffee shop or café and twist in a Ukrainian flare. European deli and culinary classes available to the public The competitive prices really catch the eye on a menu that every weekend from 11:00 - 14:00. For 350Hr per ses- features a splattering of Italian favourites such as cannelloni, sion, learn the secrets of Barsuk’s master chefs, eat while ravioli, risotto and pizza. Reasonable prices for cocktails will you cook and take the leftovers home, fun for the whole have you rubbing your eyes with disbelief. Make it a double. family. This restaurant can be a bit tricky to find, as it is Expect a packed house on the weekend and it’s a bit smoky located on Kutuzova provulok, a small perpendicular side so you might want to leave the kids at home with babushka. street off Kutuzova vul. From the Pechers’ka metro station, Also at G-3, Symona Petlury 5; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 34. head towards the river and take the third street on the left. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. €. PAGXS QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €€. PAVEGBXSW Osteria Pantagruel B-3, Lysenka 1, MZoloti Vorota, Foodtourist A-5, Chervonoarmiyska 5, Arena City, tel. (+380) 44 278 81 42, www.pantagruel.com.ua. A 2nd floor, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 095 780 60 70, time-proven Italian favourite, Osteria is widely recognised for www.foodtourist.com.ua. Part of an International theme, its excellent home-made pasta and impressive wine cellar. the Food tourist has just opened this year in Kyiv and right First-timers are strongly advised to try the ‘tagliatelle alla Con- smack dab in the centre. The theme is simply “food fashion”; stantino’, named after Osteria’s chef-virtuoso Constantino Pas- the cuisine is International & Ukrainian and they have an salacqua. In the summer time you may also enjoy your meal on a open Josper grill. The chef is from Marseilles and speaks charming terrazzo in front of the historic Golden Gate. QOpen great English as does the staff. There are so many different 11:00 - 23:00. Mon - Fri 8:00 - 11:00 breakfast €€. ALGB items to choose from, but we finally chose the grilled quail Porta Pia G-2, Tarasa Shevchenka 36A, MUniversytet, with veggies for just 137Hr. An average meal runs between tel. (+380) 44235 72 05, www.portapia.kiev.ua. For all 150-200Hr. A unique feature is the two large dining tables lovers of real Italian food, this is it! An Italian Chef named covered with beautiful thick grass. This was definitely a 1st Franco designed and runs this authentic Italian restaurant. for us - and less for the staff to clean up afterwards. There is There is a seldom seen “open kitchen”. The kitchen is actually also a breakfast menu served from 09:00-12:00 with prices in the dining room! All food is fresh, nothing frozen or preserved about 35Hr. The place is quite large holding 200 guests and and tastes great! There is an English menu and a complete there is WiFi available along with an excellent view of the city. meal will cost around 200Hr and well worth it! QOpen 11:00 QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAJEGXSW - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PALGXW GastroRock C-1, Vozdvyzhens’ka 10B, MKontraktova Prego Café A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 2, ML’va Tolstoho, Ploscha, tel. (+380) 50 390 61 31, www.gastrorock. tel. (+380) 44 235 00 86, www.prego.in.ua. We fell in love kiev.ua. A cool type of pub for the younger age set. There with the place from the get-go! It’s right in the centre and easy is much truly unique here—Like beer in a tin with fish, or is to find. A warm and friendly hostess greeted us in English. There it fish in a tin with beer? You can buy your own cured leg of is an outside terrace, a 1st floor non smoking section and an pork and leave it hanging for whenever you come in. For upstairs smoking section. There is seating for 170 plus a hall steak lovers there is a 2kg steak for only 599 Hr. There are available for 40. The menu is in English, and the cuisine is pretty special Sunday dinners where the staff trade places with the authentic Italian food. They have their own pasta machine and costumers. Breakfast is from 08:00-12:00 with a special for offer many unique specialties. We tried the delicious rabbit with 49 Hr. There is a business lunch from 12:00-15:00 for 69Hr. sour cream sauce with special pasta for 108Hr. The average An average meal runs about 200-250Hr. The place holds bill is about 85Hr. As with most new restaurants these days 80+ and there is live music along with special cocktails every there is a Sushi/Japanese menu. There is also home delivery Wed - Sat. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PAEGXSW available. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAVGBXSW kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 28 Restaurants

San Tori D-2, Sahaidachnoho 41, MKontraktova Plos- cha, tel. (+380) 44 462 49 94/(+380) 44 462 49 95. Help make Kyiv better! San Tori offers a unique fusion of Thai and Japanese cuisine in a setting that is an intriguingly comfortable mix of the two Leave your comments styles. The best thing on the menu are the lobsters: you can pick your own from the tank and send it off to be cooked as (good or bad) at you wish. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. €€€. PAS kyiv.inyourpocket.com and Ten-Po A-5, Esplanadna 34/2, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 71 24, www.ten-po.com.ua. There are we’ll make sure business more sushi places per square kilometre in Kyiv than anywhere else in Europe, and the overwhelming majority are mediocre owners get them! at best. At Ten-Po, we were pleasantly surprised to find a place with some flare. They offer a bold selection temaki Stefanos Fine Food Factory C-3, Volodymyrska 4, and vegetarian rolls, inventive dragon rolls and scrumptious MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 279 11 21/(+380) sizzling stir-fry prepared on a hibachi grill. Seating is limited, 67 460 16 66, www.stefanofff.com. A beautifully designed especially around the hibachi, making advanced booking on eating establishment. A well stocked wine shop/ delicates- the weekend the way to go. The two VIP halls accommodate sen is at the 1st floor entrance. Above our heads we saw a up to 10. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. €€. PAGS glass bottom aquarium from the 2nd floor dining area. There Tokyo City H-3, Chervonoarmiyska 60, MOlimpiiska, is an oyster & champagne bar and several dining areas both tel. (+380) 44 287 12 87, www.tokyo-city.com.ua. A smoking and non-smoking areas, all uniquely and beautifully real Japanese restaurant right in the centre. There is not decorated. Also, there is a lovely roof-garden eating area only sushi, but a wide range of Japanese cuisine. The menu and an outside terrace area. Total seating capacity 136. is in Russian, but the pictures are in English. There is also a All seemed to speak English. The menu is delicious Italian European desert menu and a great cocktail list. An average cuisine, from a Swiss-Italian chef, and in English. Prices for a meal runs about 200Hr and the mellow background music meal will cost between 300-1000+Hr. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. really added to the meal. There is smoking and non- smoking PTAUILEGBXSW areas and room for over 100 inside and more on the terrace VaBene A-4, Bohdana Khmel’nyts’kogo, MTeatral’na, when open. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. tel. (+380) 44 377 75 65, www.carteblanche.ua. This PAGXSW Bistro belongs to the Carte Blanche network of unique restaurants united by common discount system. We went Turkish in expecting a cool informal bistro and found a very formal, expensive restaurant where hardly anyone spoke English. We Marmaris B-1, Hlybochyts’ka 40, tel. (+380) 44 586 42 had to make a bit of a fuss but finally found a friendly English 33, www.marmarisrestaurant.com.ua. Looking to satisfy speaking waiter. The interior is a rich looking dark brown your craving for spicy Turkish cuisine? Marmaris is fine choice wood, with bric-a- brack decoratively placed. The Chef is from for filling up before painting the town red, business banquets Napoli, so the Italian cuisine is the real thing. An average meal and families looking for a break from the ordinary (kids’ area is costs around 450Hr. There is a very wide choice of . available). The , humus, meze, kebobs and fresh baked The menu is in English and there is a breakfast menu from pide are as authentic as you’ll find in Kyiv. Banquet items for 10:00-12:00. There is seating for 75 in the main hall and 15 five or more include enticing salmon, lamb and turkey dishes. in the VIP room. In summer, the terrace holds 20. QOpen The staff is lively and professional. Also on offer is a bountiful 10:00 - 01:00. PALGXW selection of traditional desserts and hookah. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTA6LEG Japanese Tike D-2, Sahaidachnoho 31A, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 40 62, www.tike.com.ua. In a restaurant Gin-no-Taki B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MZoloti Vorota, scene that has become a wasteland of mediocre establish- tel. (+380) 44 569 56 40, www.ginnotaki.com.ua. At ments with cliché themes, Tike boldly rises above to offer an first glance, Gi-no-Taki looks like any other sushi place, but exceptional detour from the norm. Originally established in look closer and it’s easy to find features that really set this Istanbul, Tike has been wowing diners throughout Eurasia establishment apart. For example, they offer European-style and Europe for more than a decade. Scrumptious appetisers breakfast from 10:00-12:00. The sushi is familiar, but the get the juices flowing in anticipation of delectable charcoal- grill is unique and stunning and the chef’s specials really tug grilled lamb and beef. Other mentionables include an inviting at the pallet. Choose from Kobe steak and lamb chops, and wine card, great desserts and banquet seating for up to 44. the chef’s own seafood kabobs and spicy squid salad. Dinner QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTAGXSW specials are tasty and unbelievably affordable, i.e. the sushi assortment for two and a bottle Badagoni wine for 335Hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAGS Uzbek Planeta Sushi C-4, Khreschatyk 12, MMaidan Uruk B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 11, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 270 66 79, www.plan- 44 235 14 29, www.uruk.com.ua. A unique and spacious etsushi.com.ua/en/. A great choice for a wide variety restaurant serving Uzbek and European dishes. All rooms are of Japanese dishes. You can try nigiri, poppies, mariavase different styles and look like small museums. The national and tataki sushi, sashimi, yakitori, salads, and traditional costumes worn, the décor, and music help acquaint guests Japanese hot dishes. Living up to the Japanese proverb ‘the with the history and culture of . In the “Uruk” You guest is God’ expect personal service and attention to detail. can feel the atmosphere of comfort and Eastern hospitality. Also at: H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 57/3, tel. (+380) 44 287 The menu is in English and very reasonably priced. An average 37 75; D-2, Sahaidachnoho 41, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 85; meal runs from 70-150Hr. There is live music and dancing C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, tel. (+380) 44 594 20 83. nightly (except Sunday) from 20:00. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€. PTASW PALGBXW Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com CAFés 29

Cafés in Kyiv quite often offer much more than just a cup House of Coffee Passage B-4, Khreschatyk 15/4, of perfect coffee with a pastry. Most of them have soups, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 12 09. From the so- salads, and sandwiches on their menus, so the border phisticated interior décor complete with Mucha wall hangings between restaurants and cafés is very thin. Look over the to the great people-watching tables on fashionable Passage, selection of cafés in our guide and pick the one that is just this is a place both to see and where to be seen. As expected, right for your mood or occasion. a wide selection of coffees, teas and sweet delectables only aroma espresso bar H-4, Dymytrova 5, MOlimpiiska, adds to the occasion. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun tel. (+380) 44 202 66 33, www.aromacafe.com.ua. A 11:00 - 23:00. PTALGBS nice friendly place to relax and have light meals & breakfast. Mellow music is played; there is wifi, a moderately priced new English menu. Aroma belongs to a world-wide chain of coffee Pirogovaya Nikolay A-3, H-2, B. Khmelnyts’koho shops with a good reputation. We tried one of the house 35/1, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 353 88 86, www. specialties, “Aroma Salad” with Bulgarian cheese. Children pirogovaya.com. A great place to go for a light snack or are welcome. Also at Mechnykova 3, tel.: (+380) 44 461 97 tasty deserts. It’s only been open since December, 2011 and 28; Zhylyans’ka 75, tel.: (+380) 44 596 00 20, open 24hrs. it’s usually full. There are pies, pies, and more pies and they QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAVGBXSW practically hit you in the face as they are right on display when one enters. The pies are both sweet & savoury (we saw some Babuin Bookshop-Coffeehouse G-3, Simona Petlury that were something like a quiche). It also helps if your name 10, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 73 16, www. happens to be Nicoli. Only Nicoli’s are allowed to work here, babuin.ua. This is not just a café-restaurant, but a bookshop and there are pictures of famous Nicoli’s al over the walls. It is (Mostly Russian books), art gallery and a music venue. It has self service, so you choose the exact piece of pie you want. All no relationship or similarity to the Stoned-Baboon Café of are homemade and fresh and cost between 15-30Hr! There former years. The cuisine is Russian-Ukrainian and reasonably is also a bar in another section that offers a great variety of priced. One whole room is an art gallery, with pictures rotating cocktails for 40-80H. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PJGW monthly. The paintings we saw were very delightful to the eye. There is live music Thursdays-Sundays. QOpen 09:30 Repriza A-3, H-2, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 40/25, MZoloti - 02:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PALEGBSW Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 502 23 46, www.repriza.com. Coffee House B-4, Prorizna 3/5, MKhreschatyk, tel. One of the first patisseries in the city, it has a lovely Vien- (+380) 44 279 85 09. Albeit a cookie cutter coffee house nese room stuffed with enough sugary delights to entertain chain, the mood here is unexpectedly relaxing. This is due in the kids and give you all a cavity or two. Though specializing large part to the attentive service that is in no way intrusive; a in danishes, cakes and other gourmet sweets, those in need great venue to meet with colleagues or hang out with friends. The of more substantial food can partake of delicious soups and menu has a substantial offering of coffee, coffee cocktails, soups, salads. Also located at D-3, Sahaidachnoho 10/5; B-2, Ve- salads, light breakfasts and business lunches. Also at A-3, B. lyka Zhytomyrs’ka 38; A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 26. QOpen Khmel’nyts’koho 30/10, 00:00 - 24:00; D-2, Sahaidachnoho 08:00 - 22:00. PTAGBS 41, 00:00 - 24:00; B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 13/2, 08:00 - 23:00 and Shokoladnitsa H-3, Chervonoarmiys’ka 48, ML’va many others. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PJAGXSW Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 00 88, www.shoko.com. Coffee Time C-4, B. Hrinchenka 2/1, MMaidan ua. Shokoladnitsa is exceptional for two reasons: the ser- Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 21 56, www.coffee- vice is likely the best of all the coffee house chains in Kyiv, time.com.ua. Considered the best coffee chain in Kyiv, and many are open 24hrs. There’s nothing pretentious, or the prices are reasonable and (reminiscent of Starbucks in rushed about this place, despite the fact that it originated America) they seem to be on every corner. Known for their in Moscow. Chill-out with a beverage, and nibble on a vari- aromatic blend of Arabic (90%) and Robusta coffee (10%), they ety of familiar café delectables at locations around the city offer one of the best assortments of hot and cold beverages that offer a convenient detour from the rat race. As with all in the city as well as dishes for all tastes and moods, from “chains”, expect consistency and mediocrity and you won’t soups to chocolate fondue. Also at: B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 42; A-5, be disappointed. Other mentionables include menu in Eng- Chervonoarmiys’ka 17, open: 09:00 - 22:00; A-5, Esplanadna lish, continental breakfast until 11:00 and coffee to go. Also 34/2, open: 09:00 - 22:00. QOpen 24hrs. PTJAGW at Saksahans‘koho 53/80, Basseina 1/2. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW new Dragee Café B-2, Lvivska ploscha, MZoloti Vorota, tel. SkyArtCafé B-5, Сhervonoarmiyska-Baseyna 1-3/2, (+380) 93 603 24 45, www.dragee.com.ua. Located in ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 561 78 41. This unique a cute little park right in the heart of Lvivska ploscha, this café is located on the 6th floor of the Pinchuk Art Centre. little café has a great though limited menu of European/ The décor is pure white and of a special geometrical design Italian cuisine. A meal for 2 runs about 300Hr. and there are with a lovely view of the city. It was so bright we had to wear specialties that change weekly. There is a 30% discount for sunglasses. The all vegetarian menu is in English and contains all meals between 12:00-16:00 weekdays. From Thursdays soups, salads, and light meals. Prices are moderate to pricy. to Saturdays there is a DJ that begins around 20:00 and it’s It is closed when the Art Center is closed for changing exhib- a real party atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, its. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. PAGBXW PTAEGW Sat 10:00 - 02:00. Wolkonsky C-4, I-2, Khreschatyk 13, MKhreschatyk, Éclair, confectionary restaurant A-1, Artema 82, tel. (+380) 44 201 03 96, www.wolkonsky.com. The MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 484 16 68. A comfortable aroma of fresh baked bread will have you salivating from the terrace with a tile floor, ornamental forged umbrella-lamps, a second you set foot in this posh café/bakery. Although you mahogany bar...everything conveys the atmosphere of a French can’t expect to benefit from any government bread subsidies, street café. There’s no traditional shop window, because you can count on friendly service, a soothing atmosphere and desserts are made before the visitor’s eyes. The menu lists an impressive selection of pastries, , sandwiches, 65 items: éclairs, tiramisu, meringue, cheesecakes, puddings, chocolates and other goodies. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. mousses, pies, varenyki and what not. The candies are made PTALBS from extra fine Ghirondelli chocolate, which is specially imported from Belgium. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTALGBS kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 30 Nightlife

Bars & Pubs Kyiv Nightlife Scene Baraban (Drum) B-4, Prorizna 4A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 23 55. This cosy but hard-to-find hole-in-the- Kyiv is much more of a club city than a bar town. There wall is usually populated by politicos, journalists and expats is a bar and club scene at the heart of the city centre, holding forth on the subject of the day. The neighbourhood but don‘t be surprised if you encounter more of your own atmosphere goes well with the tasty and moderately-priced countrymen than Ukrainians in these establishments. Ukrainian food, and the jazz music adds another pleasant It can be difficult to find an empty table on weekends, dimension. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AE especially when many popular expatriate hangouts offer drink specials at peak hours. On weekends and holidays, Bar on 8 C-3, H-2, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, the main street of Khreschatyk is closed to automobile MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, traffic, making it Kyiv‘s most active scene for nightlife, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. With its vantage point on people-watching, or a casual stroll. For something a little the 8th floor of the first international five-star hotel in Kyiv, more active and exciting, jazz and techno dance clubs are situated in the middle of Sofiivs’ka Square and overlooking just as busy now as any time of the year. the magnificent St. Sophia Cathedral and St. Michael’s If you are familiar with the club scene in other parts of Europe, Golden-Domed Cathedral, Bar on 8 offers the breathtaking you will feel at home with the loud atmosphere, overpriced panoramic views in the city. Being an all-day lounge, Bar drinks, and relatively high entrance fees of Kyiv’s nightclubs. on 8 also serves light dishes such as salads, sandwiches, A few differences you might note are the availability of steaks and desserts. During warmer months, guests enjoy hookah (Middle Eastern flavoured tobacco), professional alfresco dining with variations of meat and seafood grilled to dance or model shows, and it is socially acceptable for perfection on the Australian grill and original tandoor oven. men to dance with each other. Guys, be wary of the young, QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PTAULGS attractive women some clubs hire to entice foreign men to Blind Age sport music pub C-3, Mala Zhytomyrs’ka spend money on champagne, overpriced dinners and drinks. 15, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 15 11, blindage.kiev.ua. This off-the-beaten-path pub/restaurant and the sweet smell of Western American style barbecue is ideal for meeting up and throwing back a couple beers - creeping out from under the saloon doors are all eerily familiar. Podil, Stella Artois, Guinness, Hoegaarden, and Leffe on tap. Or am I in Kyiv? No. It couldn’t be. The service here is far too The menu offers local cuisine (the grill items come highly good for Kyiv. Where am I? And who the hell is Dorothy? As it recommended) to go with pizzas, pastas, burgers and beer turns out, I am in Kyiv, and Rod Serling is not sitting next to me snacks. The massive signature sausage and wing platter is munching on ribs, nor is he sipping on a Czech beer, nor is he worth checking out, but will require help from a few friends to sampling the Turkish style calamari, but if he were still alive I’m get it all down. The early 20th century theme is appeasing, sure he would not object to such a wonderful mishmash of sites, and live music is featured Friday and Saturday - check the sounds and flavours. And who is Dorothy? No one seemed to website before you go, as there are gaps in the schedule. know. (Cue more Twilight Zone theme song.) Great specials! QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. P6VEGSW QOpen 11:00 - 05:00. PAIEGS Bochka (Keg) B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, MTeatral’na, Golden Gate Irish Pub B-3, Zolotovorits’ka 15, tel. (+380) 44 390 61 06. Bochka is a no nonsense pub MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 235 51 88, www.karta. perfectly located for starting or wrapping up your bar-hopping ad- ua. This is a true Irish Pub with the largest selection of draught venture. Top local rock, pop and hip-hop acts perform Tuesday- beer in Kyiv. The menu has special beer appetisers. There Sunday. Cover charge varies on the notoriety of the band, but is are darts, a billiard room, big screen TVs for sports fans, more or less reasonable. For a taste of Kyiv that’s sure to make and live music every Friday and Saturday. Golden Gate offers its way into the memory bank, try Bochka’s house brew available business lunch on weekdays and breakfast at the weekend. in dark, light and live. The interior is massive by local standards, QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PTJAULVEGBXS so even on packed nights it’s possible to find some elbow room. Local and Euro cuisine is on hand. The price on menu items is Good Wine Bar I-3, Mechnikova 9 (GoodWine store, a touch steep for a pub, but the breakfast and lunch specials 2nd floor), MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 499 09 85, www. are value and flavour packed. QOpen 24hrs. PAEGX gusovsky.com.ua. This modern designed bar is located inside a huge wine shop on the 2nd floor overlooking the shop floor. This new is a relaxing place to have a glass or two of wine. There are usu- Che Guevara Pub H-1, Verkhniy Val 66A, MKontraktova ally eight bottles of white and eight bottles of red on offer. Almost Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 463 70 71, www.cheguevara.com. every day one of the bottles is getting replaced by another so in ua. As most major international cities have a bar or restaurant several weeks the whole menu is fully renewed. If you don’t find a named after Che Guevara, Kyiv is no exception. (Thank God wine you prefer, just buy the bottle of your choice in the first floor there is no sushi menu). The theme is Cuban with authentic shop and for the nominal corkage fee it will be served in the bar. Cuban cuisine. The menu is in English and offers such special- Everything to go with wine is in the show-case. You don’t have ties as corn tortillas with beef or pork with veggies and beans to read a menu since there’s no menu at all. Take some salami, for just 80Hr. Quite yummy! An average meal for 2 costs around prosciutto, bresaola, coppa, cheese, bread or sandwiches (grilled 200Hr. Weekdays gets you a 40% discount from 12:00-16:00 upon request). It’s a limited, affordable menu as the emphasis and “birthday guests” get a 20% discount. There is no Ukrainian is on it being a wine bar no sushi, nor hookahs here. There are beer, only imported from Belgium and other places. There is live also around 50 labels of whisky though, with more to come. music, always with a Latin twist, from Thursdays to Saturdays QOpen 17.00 - 23.00, Sat, Sun 12.00 - 23.00. PALG from 20:00-23:00. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAEGX Indigo A-5, Esplanadna 34/2, MPalats Sportu, tel. Dorothy’s Pub H-3, Saksahans’koho 16/43, ML’va (+380) 44 289 62 16. Enjoy sports broadcasts on big Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 05 30. The sign out front read screens in two halls throughout the day. Stimulate (or douse, “Dorothy’s Pub”. (Cue The Twilight Zone theme song.) Have I whichever) your passion with beer from the tap, which is been transported back to my native state of Utah? The scenes featured in a huge variety. Not exactly a sports fan? Then of Monument Valley and Arches National Park, the Osmonds come listen to live music shows at night, Wednesday through glaring at me from the menu with their cheesy Colgate smiles Friday. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAE Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Nightlife Nightlife 31

Lobby Lounge C-3, A.Tarasovoyi 5, Hyatt Regency Kyiv, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 34, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. Lobby Lounge is the haven of luxury with a great mixture of dining and lounge tables with comfortable and inviting sofas and chairs, all located around the stunning onyx fireplace, allowing guests to relax and experience the urban buzz of this deluxe international hotel. Throughout the day, Lobby Lounge offers a wide selec- tion of snacks and light meals. Afternoon tea rituals feature savouries, cakes and irresistible pastries, freshly prepared every day. In the evening, the fireplace becomes the focal point, around which guests can sample excellent wines, single malt whiskeys, premium brandies, cognacs, and fine cigars. QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PTUILGXS London C-4, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan Nezalezh- nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 47 08. London is a very classic type outlet, offering a wide range of international beverages, large beer variety and high class service. In addition, wide TV screens with sport events broadcast. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Lucky Pub A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 13, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 499 13 13, www.karta.ua. Lucky hasn’t been open for long, but it’s already proven a big hit with travellers, expats and locals alike. This is arguably the finest sports viewing venue in the city. We went on the night of a critical World Cup qualifying match and the place was booked solid. Eleven LCDs are strategically placed throughout the pub, 12 types of beer are on tap and the fare is familiar, delicious and reasonably priced. We joined a group of rowdy Brits in the football room and had a splendid time. Live music goes from 21:00 - 01:00 Thursday - Saturday. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PJALEGKX Naturlih Pub B-4, B.Khmelnyts’koho 3, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 279 79 29, www.naturlih.com.ua. The most striking feature of Naturlih is it amazing selection of draft beer - one of the grandest we’ve come across in Kyiv. Have the bar- Porter Pub C-4, I-2, Kostelna 4, MMaidan Nezalezh- man pull you a top German, Dutch, Czech, English, Belgian, Irish nosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 04 90, www.porter.com.ua. or local brewski, then sit back and watch the bustling hordes A hole in the rock overlooking Maidan Nezalezhnosti, Porter hike up historic B. Khmel’nts’koho street from the cosy view Pub is an alluring venue for hungry, music-loving travellers. The inside. The pub/restaurant offers scrumptious menu items to cosy yet edgy ambiance, reasonable prices, and live rock and go with the suds including German style sausages, pasta, pizza alternative make for a winning combination. Signature dishes and classy euro dinner items. The spacious halls and laid-back include a bean and chicken salad, bacon/egg/sausage break- atmosphere are conducive for conversations. QOpen 10:00 - fast and chicken stuffed crapes. The pub’s own homebrew is 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 06:00. PJAGXW worth wrapping your lips around. Getting good service here is a bit like flipping a coin: It’s been 50/50 in our experience, O’Brien’s C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 17A, MMaidan Nezalezh- but we keep coming back, as there’s just something magnetic nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 15 84, www.obriens.kiev.ua/ about this joint’s energy. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. P eng. Kyiv’s first Irish pub is still a favourite with expats and upwardly mobile Ukrainians. O’Brien’s bars serve up plenty Rosie O’Grady’s C-3, Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka 8/14, of beer great with none-too-shabby pub food like shepherd’s MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 234 47 34, pie, and their Irish breakfast is enough to hold you until din- www.rosieogradys.kiev.ua/en/main/. Located at the ner. Upstairs you’ll find darts, billiards and the city’s best halfway point between Sofiis’ka pl. and the top of Andriivs’kyi atmosphere for watching sports on the big screen. QOpen uzviz, Rosie’s is a fresh addition to Kyiv’s expanding selection 08:00 - 02:00. PALE of Irish pubs. The cosy basement setting is ideal for tipping back a pint of Irish stout or English ale and watching live new big-match football. Specialties include Aunt Rosie’s steak, Olimpiyskiy Sport & Beer A5, Chervonoarmiyska 55A, pork chops and Sheridan’s veal, all of which are served on a MOlimpiiska, tel. (+380)44 587 72 22, www.osbeer.com. bed of delectable forest mushrooms. Popular for its reason- ua. This spacious place is actually located right on the grounds ably priced business lunches that feature a mix of local and of the recently renovated Olympic stadium. There is room for European dishes. QOpen 08:00 - 03:00. 250 with live music every Friday, Saturday, and on holidays from 20:00-23:00. There are games to be played and several “football Sunduk C-3, I-2, Mykhailivs’ka 16, MMaidan Nezalezh- tables” are available. Breakfast is served from 08: 00-12:00, with nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 14 65. The main features of this prices ranging from 33Hr. for an omelette to 91 for Eggs Benedict. classic pub are the pleasant wooden interior and bill transac- The main menu consists of European & Ukrainian cuisine and of tions made via a treasure chest. In spite of a noticeable attempt course, a sushi menu. There is an open kitchen on one end and an to copy Western styles in the interior, the music is very Eastern. open “Josper Grill” on the other. We had the grilled lamb rack for just The dishes and drinks listed on the menu are not necessar- 111Hr and loved it! An average meal here costs around 150Hr. A ily present in the kitchen. Nevertheless, if you plan to arrive sports souvenir shop will soon be open and please note that when after 18:00, it would be better to reserve a table beforehand an event is happening at the stadium, entrance to the restaurant and prepare for being consumed by cigarette smoke even in is only for those with tickets. QOpen 24hrs. PAGXW the room for non-smokers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAE

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 32 Nightlife What to see

Clubs the evenings. This Rock n’ Roll joint is a lively raucous affair where bands play to an enthusiastic crowd determined to Arena Entertainment B-5, I-3, Basseina 2A, ML’va dance and flirt until sunrise. The menu, in both English and Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 492 00 00, www.arena-kiev. German languages, is of European and Ukrainian cuisine. Live com/eng. This venue was the official hangout for Eurovision music with a dock style interior. All manner of cocktails are 2005 participants. It is an entertainment complex accom- available at reasonable prices, and the service is warm and modating several bars and a night club under one roof. In friendly. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTJAE any case, you may wind up your night out in the night club partying untill dawn. Q Open: restaurant and Beer House D*Lux Entertainment C-4, M. Hrushevs’koho 3, 09:00 - 04:00, Sport-Bar 12:00 - 04:00, night club Tue - Sun MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 200 90 91, 22:00 - 06:00. POALEBK www.dlux.com.ua. A Spacious, huge complex with a 2 story disco, lounge bars with live music, 2 terrace-restaurants, and Art Club 44 B-4, H-2, Khreschatyk 44B, MKhres- a gift shop. Well known DJ’s perform with PJ’s (go-go dancers). chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 279 41 37, www.club44.com. The staff was friendly and English speaking. The menu is in ua. This grungy underground niche located through an arch English, not so large and not so cheap. Entrance (for parties just off Khreschtyk Street has been a haven for jazz, punk and only) is 200Hr for men and 100Hr for women. A strict dress alternative music enthusiasts for years now. The club regu- code; smart, casual, is strictly enforced. Disco is from 00:00- larly features renowned bands from the US and UK. Crowds 06:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. PTALEGBXSW tend to be a bit intense Friday and Saturday, but mellow out Sunday for jazz. Cover charges vary depending on the act. Milennium C-4, I-2, Khreschatyk 1/2, MMaidan The club also hosts photo exhibitions and showings of art- Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 82 02, www.milenni- house films nightly at 19:00. The music blares from 21:00 um-bar.kiev.ua. Milennium claims to put on a ‘non-stop erotic until 23:30. The full bar, decent selection of munchies, and show’ of beautiful dancers, complete with private shows and hip staff round out 44’s attractions. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, table dancing. This fantasy world at Dnipro Hotel is yours for Sat, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. Starting from 20:00 on Thu 30Hr, the taking - after forking out 100Hr for the admission. But on Fri and Sat 50Hr. Sun - Wed free entrance. PAEW for that price you get to enjoy ‘gourmet snacks’ from the bar. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00. AL Azhur A-4, H-2, Leontovycha 3, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 74 94, fax (+380) 44 278 50 05, www. Route 66 G-3, Zhylians’ka 87/30, MVokzal’na, tel. avalon.ua. This stereo disco club is a real diamond of Kyiv (+380) 44 239 38 65, www.route66.com.ua. Finally! A night life. The best music from the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s pro- place that offers great service at the bar. The atmosphere vides a bright and dazzling atmosphere. The Beetles, Elvis is lively and the ribs and wings are tasty and “American”. Presley, Marilyn Monroe, Lisa Minnelli, the Rolling Stones, and The beer, thank God, is not American; it’s imported from the Doors songs guarantee an unforgettable night in this club. countries that know how to brew, i.e. the Czech Republic. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. POALEXS The summer terrace is popular with locals, but the real draw is the live Rock ‘n’ Roll that starts up nightly at 21:00. Byblos B-1, Artema 20, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) QOpen 24hrs. PAK 44 288 18 88, www.byblos.kiev.ua. This is a very large, modern, and beautifully decorated club-restaurant. The Sorry Babushka G-2, Dmytrivs’ka 18/24, MUniver- staff was warm and friendly and English speaking. It is a sytet, tel. (+380) 44 486 03 00, www.sorrybabushka. restaurant in the day time and a disco begins at 23:00. There com.ua. Out with the old and in with the new! This club is no dance floor, but people catch the beat and dance by has elbowed into the space formerly occupied by the once their tables. The menu is European cuisine partly in English. popular Sound Planet. Very few changes have actually Prices are moderate to pricy with a large selection of well been made to the new club’s interior, but with a completely priced cocktails. Private banquets are often held and there overhauled concept, Babushka has become an immediate are 2 VIP rooms for up to 15 people. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00. hit among the capital’s clubbers. On the first floor you’ll find PALEGBKXSW karaoke, the second floor spins 80’s and 90’s and disco until your platforms cave in on the third floor. There’s a karaoke Carribean Club G-2, Symona Petliury 4, MUniversytet, tournament every Wednesday - the winner receives a DVD tel. (+380) 44 288 12 90, www.caribbean.com.ua/eng. player. Other special offers can be found throughout the Want to test your salsa skills? Carribean Club proudly presents week at Babushka’s Vnuchata (grandchildren’s) Party. Q the live rhythms of the Latino group “disLOKAdos”. For you Open 22:00 - 05:00. PA novices, the dance school is one of the first and most popular salsa schools in Kyiv. The cost of one lesson is 50Hr. QOpen Sullivan Room B-4, Prorizna 8, MKhreschatyk, tel. 18:00 - 06:00. Admission 50-120Hr for men, 20-80Hr for (+380) 66 485 55 55, www.sullivanroom.kiev.ua. This women. PAILEG club is an affiliate of the New York Club and is ranked in the top 100 in the world. It offers concerts of top groups playing Crystal Hall J-3, Dniprovs’kyi uzviz 1, MDnipro, tel. a wide variety of music; as well as theatrical performances, (+380) 67 442 92 67/(+380) 44 288 50 69, www.crys- and fashion shows every weekend evening. Then the disco talhall.com.ua. Located in a converted ice rink on the edge of a begins and lasts all night. It is a beautifully decorated 2 hill overlooking the Dnipro River, Crystal Hall is one of the largest storied club with capacity for up to 500. Concert prices and hippest clubs in the capital. Although the capacity is 2000, begin at 40Hr. and the disco prices range from free to 50Hr. there’s no guarantee that you’ll get in as face control is enforced QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. PAEXW and the place gets busy for big events. The dance floor and bar are huge, and the VIP room has a separate entrance and private Xlib Club D-1, H-1, Frunze 12, MKontraktova Ploscha. bar. Laser and video shows ricochet off the domed ceiling as The name of this new club Xlib (meaning bread) is an expres- some of the regions top DJs and bands perform. The outdoor sion of the essence of the place: simplicity. It is hidden on a seating is relaxing and the menu offers a sufficient array of cold small street in Podil, and the interior has yet to be refurbished. appetisers, hot dishes (omelettes, sea bass with grilled veggies, Basically the place is two rooms: a dance floor, and a chill salmon, pork ribs, etc.) and the mandatory for Kyiv clubs: sushi. out room. Crowds throng to enjoy the DJs’ stylish and con- temporary sounds. The fact that it lacks a bit in décor and Docker’s ABC B-4, I-2, Khreschatyk 15/4A, MKhres- extravagance is - if anything - a bonus. QOpen , Thu, Sun chatyk, tel. (+380) 44 278 17 17, en.docker.com.ua. 20:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PA Docker’s is a café and bar during the day and a night club in Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 33

Kyiv’s sightseeing to-do list is topped by its famous gold- domed churches and cathedrals, magnificent sanctuaries of worship that impress with their history and art. Since everybody needs souvenirs to take home, God kindly GUARANTEED DAILY TOURS IN ENGLISH created Andriivs’kyi uzviz. Next are the city’s museums, historical monuments, and finally a wonderful open-air Monday - Saturday (10.30) BUS CITY TOUR 2 hrs museum on the edge of the city limits. Monday - Friday (19.00) EVENING BUS CITY TOUR 2 hrs Sunday (10.30) Museum of Folk Architecture Essential Kyiv and Life (Pirogovo) 3,5 hrs Andrew‘s Descent (Andriivs‘kyi uzviz) C-2, MKontrak- tova Ploscha. This is without a doubt one of Kyiv‘s oldest and Previous booking is required traveltraveltravel companycompanycompany +38 (044) 332-14-86; +38 (063) 166-27-87 most beloved streets. In ancient times it linked the administrative riadna www.ariadnat.com part of the upper town with Podil, the lower town of merchants and artisans. This steep and winding cobblestone lined descent is a traditional venue for outdoor festivals and fairs, and is dotted with numerous intriguing art galleries, museums, cafés, bars and restaurants. Being at the very heart of the city‘s art community, the street is a favourite stop for tourists in search of paintings City tours and traditional Ukrainian crafts. This is also a well-known reposi- tory for all souvenirs tacky and/or Soviet. Artisans come out in Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, full force on weekends and big holidays. The intriguing building suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 at N°15 is referred to by Kyivites as “Richard‘s Castle.” Unfor- 77 78/(+380) 44 207 12 55/(+380) 99 550 00 00, tunately, the Descent is currently under reconstruction, but no [email protected], www.primetour.ua. Prime Excursion worries...a hidden gem is around back. Head down the street, Bureau provides all kind of travel arrangements. (City tours, and to the right you‘ll find a steep, twisting flight of iron steps. sightseeing in Kyiv and week-end outings. More than 25 Those with calf muscles tough enough to conquer the climb are guided excursions. Bureau specialising in country cultural rewarded with a commanding vantage point above Podil and and nature excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun the Dnipro. The Bulgakov Museum is a must visit for literary 10:00 - 18:00. enthusiasts, and is located at N°13. At the bottom of the hill, D-1, Gor’koho 25V, ML’va Tolstoho, turn left to Kontraktova ploscha or right to reach Sahaidachnoho Albatros Travel tel. (+380) 44 495 56 70, [email protected], vul., an oasis for connoisseurs and coffee lovers. www.ariadnat.com. AriadnaT provides a range of daily city Dynamo Stadium C-4/5, I-2, M.Hrushevskoho 3, MMaid- tours in English: city bus tours, night bus tours, walking tours an Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 02 09. After passing around Kyiv and to Pyrohovo Folk Architecture Museum. through the white columns you’ll come to a monument honouring QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. the life of Valeriy Lobanovs’kyi, Dynamo’s famous coach who died in May 2002. Lobanovs’kyi won countless Soviet leagues and AriadnaT D-1, Yaroslaviv Val 22, MZoloti Vorota, tel. cups first as a player and then as coach, not to his mention his (+380) 44 332 14 86/(+380) 63 166 27 87, info@ team’s two European Cup-Winners Cup triumphs and a string of albatros.travel, www.albatros.travel. AriadnaT provides Ukrainian titles. It’s ironic that he can now only be seen sitting a range of daily city tours in English: city bus tours, night still on a bench, because his habit was always to rock back and bus tours, walking tours around Kyiv and to Pyrohovo Folk forth between games. An even more poignant memorial is located Architecture Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. closer to the stadium and to the left: depicted in stern granite are Free Tours B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, the four Dynamo players who were killed by occupying Nazis dur- tel. (+380) 44 278 80 04/(+380) 67 220 66 22, ing WWII. Contrary to Soviet myth and many published materials, [email protected], www.freetours.kiev.ua. Free these players were not shot in their uniforms immediately after walking tours around the city centre start every day at defeating a German side in a so-called ‘Death Match’. However, 12:00 and 16:00. Meeting point is near the Central Post their team Start (consisting of players from Dynamo and other Office on Maidan Nezalezhnosti. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Soviet clubs) did defeat a team of German soldiers called Flakelf in August 1942 - in fact they did it twice in 72 hours by scores Mysterious Kyiv B-4, Khreschatyk 19A (Tourist Info of 5-1 and 5-3. Only weeks later were N.Korotkykh, N.Trusevich, Centre), MKhreschatyk tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, A.Klimenko and I.Kuzmenko arrested. Korotkykh, a NKVD (the [email protected], www.interesniy.kiev.ua. precursor to the KGB) agent, was tortured and soon died, while the Mysterious Kyiv provides exclusive tours to Secret Kyiv other three were executed in Febraury 1943 at the death places, Kyiv Caves, Secret Stallin tunnels under Dnipro camp. Regardless, the less-romanticized reality shouldn’t take river, tours to Zone, Segway tours. Excursions away from the players’ heroism, embodied when they ignored in your language. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. orders and refused to give a Nazi salute prior to their last game. Open Kiev J-3, Lavrs’ka 16, MArsenalna, tel. QTours to Dynamo Stadium are available. Contact Tourist Info (+380) 44 227 28 63, www.openkiev.com.ua. Open Centre at Khreschatyk 19A. Kiev provides Hop-on Hop-off daily sightseeing bus Golden Gate (Zoloti Vorota) B-3, Zolotovorits‘ka 8, tours on open top double decker with fantastic views of MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 70 68/(+380) 44 Kyiv. The first circle of the tour starts at 11:00 from the 278 69 19. Zoloti Vorota, one of the most unique architec- entrance to Kyievo-Pechers’ka Lavra (Lavrs’ka 16). You tural/archaeological sites in Kyiv, reopened in 2007 after a can catch a bus on one of 17 stops around Kyiv, then lengthy reconstruction. The remains of ancient Kyiv‘s main take off at any of them, have a stroll down Khreschatyk gate were originally constructed during the height of the or any other and catch the bus again. Commentaries Kyivan Rus, and are included on the UNESCO World Heritage available in English and Russian. QTicket 150Hr, kids list. Painstakingly planned by historians and architects, the 100Hr, under 7 for free. bright new construction that entombs the ancient walls is kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 34 What to see

considered an exact replica of the original gate. From the walks of life changed/delayed the course of Ukrainian history. As platforms, the views of Volodymys‘ka vul. and surrounding you walk on Maidan, imagine the entire square and surrounding area are stunning enough to justify the price of admission. streets filled by a determined yet jubilant orange mob. House With Chimeras (Dim z khymeramy) C-5, Khreschatyk B/C-4, MKhreschatyk. From its start at Bankova 10, MKhreschatyk. Built more than a century European Square to its terminus at Bessarabs‘ka Square, ago by eccentric Kyivite Wladislaw Horodecki, this is the most Kyiv‘s most beloved street is not even two kilometres long. unique structure in Kyiv. Sophisticated architectural forms are Despite what has been called the most impressive unbroken buried beneath the phantasmal figures of Horodecki‘s dreams. string of Stalinist architecture anywhere, Khreschatyk‘s wide The elephant trunk storm drains, rhinos, antelope, gigantic chestnut lined sidewalks are ideal for a relaxing stroll. The trees frogs, mermaids and other figures are constructed of cement, provide both welcome shade from the blistering summer sun a state-of-the-art material back in the 19th century. A local ce- and shelter from the region‘s signature spring downpours. On ment factory owner provided Horodecki with a complimentary weekends and holidays, the street becomes a pedestrian only supply knowing that the interest generated by such an unusual thoroughfare where locals, travellers and street performers home would pay-off. Ahead of its time, the design makes full use mingle and frolic. It‘s hard to imagine that this was once a of the uneven Kyiv landscape: Three stories rise on one side deep valley surrounded by dense forest. The valley was named and six descend the hill on the other. The interior design was Khreschata (crossed) in reference to the many ravines that also considered radically modern, and included an ice room for converged in the area. In ancient times, Kyivan Rus princes food storage, a wine cellar, a laundry room, a garage for horse hunted wild game here (the only hunting done on Khreschatyk drawn carriages and even a special room for Horodecki‘s cow. these days is for souvenirs, fashion and fashionable Ukrainian This insured fresh milk for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Shrouded women). Some of the city‘s best shopping can be found both in mystery and legend, this place continues to intrigue visitors. above and below ground. Trendy malls have been dug beneath Independence Square (Maidan Nezalezhnosti) Bessarabs‘ka and Maidan Nezalezhnosti. As for above ground C-4, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti. Kyiv‘s central square has shopping, TsUM (Central Department Store) has become undergone major changes in recent years, both above and rather modern and has little to show of its Soviet past. Perhaps below ground. The square is locally referred to as “The Big in an act of poetic justice the whole street will collapse under Greenhouse.” That‘s not a botanical compliment but rather this retail strain and revert back to a lush valley. an indictment of the Globus Shopping Centre‘s glassy domes. St. Andrew‘s Church (Andriivs‘ka Tserkva) C-2, Throughout Soviet times, October Revolution Square, as it Andriivs‘kyi uzviz 23, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) was known, featured a daunting Lenin statue. Despite the 44 278 58 61. The church is temporary closed for renavation seemingly constant modifications, Maidan has been the city‘s but it really worth to be seen. Famous Italian architect Bartolomeo epicentre for generations. In 2004, it gained world notoriety for Rastrelli was the mastermind behind this attractive Baroque staging the events of the Orange Revolution. Images of the church that greets the throngs at the top of Andriivs‘kyi uzviz. square circulated the globe for weeks as Ukrainians from all Built in 1754, it‘s one of the rare buildings in Kyiv that has man-

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 35

aged to avoid serious damage or reconstruction. The elegant silhouette of its one large dome and five lesser cupolas are easily visible from Podil and beyond. Apostle Andrew, who was the first Christian to preach the gospel in Kyivan Rus, was said to have erected a cross on this very site. It was the wish of Peter the Great‘s religiously-minded daughter, Elizabeth, after her visit to Kyiv in 1744 that this church be built. It must be said that com- pared to the beautiful exterior, the interior is rather disappointing - too much loud red and gold colours and really not much to see. Console yourself with a stroll around the church‘s perimeter, a walk which the famous Ukrainian writer Gogol also enjoyed. St. Michael‘s Golden-Domed Cathedral (Mykhailivs‘kyi Zolotoverkhyi Sobor) C-3, Mykhailivs‘ka ploscha, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 22 48. The original, built by Prince Sviatopolk in 1108, was destroyed by the Soviet regime in the 1930s for having “no historical value.” The reconstructed cathedral was completed in May 2000. Its sky blue exterior and glittering golden domes add a stunning layer to a cityscape that has become a mix-mash of crumbling ancient and newly reconstructed. A sobering reminder of Stalin‘s inhumane policies stands to the right as you exit the church grounds. This is a monument to the victims of Holodomor (starvation): A fam- ine orchestrated in part by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash the peasantry, as many as 10 million Ukrainians perished from 1932-33. Keeping watch over the square are the reconstructed statues of Princess Olga, Apostle Andrew, St. Cyrill and St. Mephodius. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Services held daily at 08:00 and 17:00, and on Sundays at 08:00, 10:00, 17:00. St. Sophia‘s Cathedral (Sofiivs‘kyi Sobor) B-3, Volodymyrs‘ka 24, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 279 22 56. Kyiv‘s oldest standing church, St. Sophia‘s was built in 1037 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise, who incidentally was laid to rest inside. He commissioned the project to commemorate the site of a victory of Kyivan Rus over the Pechenegs (Asian nomadic tribes) and to glorify Christianity. It was named after the famous St. Sophia‘s Cathedral in Constantinople. This majestic 13-cupola sanctuary adjoined Yaroslav‘s Palace and became a holy place of worship for Kyivites as well as a political and cultural centre. With an interior of rich frescoes and mosa- ics, many of which are still intact almost a millennium later, the cathedral made a huge impression on the ordinary worshippers of Kyiv. Meetings with foreign diplomats and treaty negotiations were held here, and the church housed the first library and school in Kyivan Rus. The azure and white bell tower is 76m high and was finished in 1752. The cathedral‘s upper Ukrainian Baroque section and gilded cupola were added in 1852. Today the entire complex is protected by Ukraine, and also receives support from UNESCO. The 18th century refectory works as a museum and contains archaeological artefacts and architec- tural displays, such as models depicting Kyiv as it looked before being razed by Mongol invaders in 1240. It costs a meagre 3Hr to enter the grounds. To enter the Cathedral itself, purchase tickets from the kiosk at the bell tower entrance. As you exit don‘t forget to pose for the postcard-perfect picture with Cos- sack leader Bohdan Khmelnyts‘kyi on his horse against the backdrop of St. Michael‘s Golden-Domed Cathedral. Guided tours in English are available. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 40Hr for all exhibits for adults, 17Hr for children and students. Entrance to the Bell Tower costs 8Hr/5Hr. Entrance to the Catherdral’s area costs 3Hr. St. Volodymyr‘s Cathedral (Volodymyrs‘kyi Sobor) A-4, T.Shevchenka bul‘v. 20, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 53 85. The Cathedral was built from 1862-1882 in a so called Russian pseudo-Byzantine style. The frescos inside were made by famous Russian, Ukrainian and Polish artists, such as Vasnetsov, Nesterov, Vrubel, Pymonenko and Svedomsky. The church belongs to the Ukrainian Orthodox denomination. QOpen 06:00 - 19:30. Services are held daily at 08:00 and 17:00. Sat, Sun at 7:00, 10:00 and 17:00. Free admission. kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 36 What to see

Chernobyl Museums A small-scale Kyiv (Kyiv v miniaturi) K-3, Brovars’kyi It’s not every trip abroad prosp. (near MLYN Restaurant complex), MHidropark, you have the chance to tel. (+380) 44 516 46 10, www.minikiev.com.ua. This visit the site of the world’s private collection presents the famous Kyiv buildings in worst nuclear accident, is miniature. Do not miss the unique opportunity to see them it? The Chernobyl Nuclear from a bird’s eye view without flying. A perfect entertainment Power Plant is only about choice for kids and adults. Located in Hidropark near to the Mill a two-hour ride north of restaurant. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Kyiv. New Logic Tours - in Admission 15Hr. Free for children and senior sitizens. conjunction with a gov- ernment agency - offers Bulgakov Museum (Muzey Bulgakova) C-2, a day trip to the region, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 13, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) wisely realising that the 44 425 31 88, www.bulgakov.org.ua. The celebrated market for overnight stays is not great. According to travel Russian writer Mikhail Bulgakov lived in this house from companies you can actually enter the contaminated zone, 1906-1916 and again from 1918-1919. It was here that where you’ll be joined by your English-speaking guide, who he wrote the novel The White Guard and the play Days will show you the fateful reactor N°4 (from a safe distance). of Turbins. The old Bulgakov family home is now home to You’ll also visit the nearby ghost town of Pripyat - where the Bulgakov Museum, which displays the author’s personal some apartments still bear witness to the haste in which things and family photos. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed 47,500 residents were made to leave their homes - and Wed. Admission 20Hr. have a chance to converse with residents of surrounding villages who refused to move. A trip to the acres of fields Ivan Honchar’s Museum, Ukrainian Centre of Folk filled with contaminated vehicles, helicopters, etc. used in Art J-4, Ivana Mazepy 29, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 the cleanup is optional. Comfortingly, you’ll be accompanied 288 92 68/(+380) 44 288 54 19, www.honchar.org.ua. on your return trip to Kyiv by the same friendly driver, bring- The Museum was founded in September 1993 and is based ing your 10-hour journey to environmental hell and back on Ivan Honchar’s (1911-1993) private collection. During the to a close. Then you can enjoy a nuclear-free dinner: you’ll Soviet period he was accused of nationalism. All those who participate in the cooking and checking of the ingredients manifested interest in his collection were registered with the for radiation with a dosimeter. And in case you’re wonder- KGB. The collection represents the “Ukrainahood” of the 17- ing, yes, your body will receive above-average doses of 20th centuries and has 15 000 pieces. The centre piece of radiation throughout the day, but the effects are said to Honchar’s collection are the folk pictures, the inventive hero be harmless... If you are not convinced, you can satisfy “Mamai Cossack” is especially popular. Also impressive is the your curiosity in radiation free environment: The National elaborate collection of clothes from the 18-19th centuries Museum of Chernobyl. (2500 samples) as well as pottery art exhibits (630 plates, dishes, crockery and zoomorphic ceramic toys). QOpen Museum of Chernobyl (Muzey Chornobylyu) 10:00 - 17:45. Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, 3Hr for children. D-1, Khorevyi lane 1, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 417 54 27. This museum does an excellent Museum (Muzey fortetsia) A-6, job of actually making you feel like you are at the site of Hospital’na 24A, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 235 the infamous nuclear accident. Road signs from towns 01 46. This part of the city’s fortifications was built in 1844. and villages near Chernobyl greet you as you ascend the Arguably, this structure’s history has more do with defense- stairs, and as you descend the signs are crossed out to less people rather than defending people. It was here that signify your departure. It’s usually rather empty, but then supporters of the Tsar carried out executions of political again so is the contamination zone. A few exhibits could be prisoners, including the leaders of a Polish rebellion, in the a bit scary for kids, such as life-sized costumes with gas 1860s. At the beginning of the 20th century, participants masks and pictures of deformed animals. Audio guides in a revolt of the Kyiv Pioneer Regiment met the same fate. are available in four languages (English, German, Ukrainian Also during this time, ammunition and were stored and Russian).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. in this semi-underground fortress with solid brick and stone Closed Sun. Admission: 10Hr, children 3Hr. walls. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Fri. Admission 14Hr. Memorial Museum of Zankovets’ka (Muzey Chernobyl Tours Zan’kovets’koi) H-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 121, M Prime Excursion Bureau D-1, Schekavyts’ka 30/39, Palats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 529 57 32. Maria suite 4, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 227 Zankovets’ka was a prominent Ukrainian actress at the turn 77 78/207 12 55/0 99 550 00 00, info@primetour. of the 20th century. Her original art comprised the greatest ua, www.primetour.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun achivements of the Ukrainian theatre culture. She was part 10:00 - 18:00 of the Ukrainian intellectual elite. The best playwrights of that time wrote their plays for her. She gave performances in New Logic A-4, B. Khmel’nyts’koho 17/52 (Leonardo Ukraine and also achieved popular acclaim and fame on the Business Centre), office 523, MTeatral’na, tel./fax St. Petersburg and Moscow stage. Leading theatre critics of (+380) 44 206 22 00, [email protected], www.new- the day put Zankovets’ka’s name beside such theatre stars logic.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. as Eleanore Douzet and Sarah Bernhardt. She was called Mysterious Kyiv B-4, Khreschatyk 19A (Tourist Info the Ukrainian Douzet for she was among those actors who Centre), MKhreschatyk tel. (+380) 44 491 11 76, created psychological theatre. Among the great admirers [email protected], www.interesniy.kiev.ua. . of herv talent were Chekhov and Tolstoy, Tchaicovski and Repin, Bunin and many others. The museum of Zankovets’ka Tours2Chernobyl tel. (+380) 93 239 77 69, www. in Kyiv consists f an exposition dedicated to life and work of tour2chernobyl.com. Indiviadual and group tours to the actress, and of her memorial apartment. QOpen 10:30 Chernobyl. - 17:00. Closed Mon.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 37

Museum of Modern Ukrainian Fine Arts Collection (Muzey suchasnoho ukrains’koho mystetstva) Pyrohovo D-2, Hlybochyts’ka 17, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 463 76 69. A large private collection of mas- terpieces of modern Ukrainian art - exactly what the state museums are lacking. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Museum of Russian Art (Muzey rosiis’koho mystetstva) A-4, Tereschenkivs’ka 9, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 18. Outside of Moscow and St. Petersburg, one of the largest collections of Russian art is housed here. The building belonged to the upper-class Tere- schenko family and was built in the 1880s. Private artworks confiscated and nationalised by the Soviets along with the Folk Architecture and Life Museum Pyrohovo, Tereschenkos’ holdings formed the bulk of the museum’s ex- marshrutkas #3 and 156 from MLybids‘ka, tel. (+380) hibits when it was opened in 1922. The most prized displays 44 526 55 42. There is a place in Kyiv where you can say are a collection of exceptional Russian icons dating back to “Let‘s go to the 16th century Carpathians” and then find the late 13th century. The museum features artwork from yourself there in a matter of minutes. No…we‘re not offer- many famous Russian painters such as I. Repin, M. Vrubel ing you a ride in Doc Brown‘s Delorean time machine. It‘s and N. Rerikh, as well as sculptures, handicraft and graphics. Pyrohovo – a picturesque open-air museum of old Ukrainian Kids should be kept on a tight rein as the staff can be rude if lifestyle and folk culture. little people get too close to exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. The museum is divided into areas representing different re- Closed Wed, Thu. Admission 6Hr, English tours 24Hr. gions of Ukraine. The clay huts roofed with thatch or wooden shingles and the archaic barns and wells recreate an authentic Museum of the Great Patriotic War (Muzey Velykoi village atmosphere. Everything is meant to bring you back to Vitchyznianoi Viyny) J-4, Lavrs’ka 24, MArsenal’na, the Ukraine of 16th to 19th centuries. At Pyrohovo you will tel. (+380) 44 285 94 52, www.warmuseum.kiev.ua. This find wooden churches, windmills, and even a school building World War II memorial complex, which opened in 1981, includes typical of rural areas from recent centuries. Different kinds of a museum with 18 different galleries, an eternal flame, plaques structures (water-mills, forges, cattle-sheds “shopa”, grana- honouring particularly heroic Soviet cities and an outdoor ries “komora”, threshing floors, “stodola” for storing cereals, display containing military planes and other equipment from apiaries, hen houses, cellars and wells) will tell you the story various wars. The centrepiece of it all is of course the massive of how folks lived in Ukraine centuries ago. If everything at titanium statue of a woman, 62m tall to be exact, grasping a the museum seems very authentic, that‘s because it really 12-ton sword and a shield. Honouring Soviet defenders dur- is. Most of the buildings are in fact original and were moved ing World War II, its Socialist Realism style is an interesting here piece by piece from villages all over Ukraine. contrast to the nearby ancient golden domes of Pechers’ka From the main entrance, the road leads you across a large Lavra. If you’re just slightly worried about the ‘Mother of the wheat field to the Middle Prydniprovia sector with the Church Motherland’ being a tad too top-heavy, you’re not the only one. of the Great Martyn, Saint Paraskeva Friday (Cherkassy region, There have been scattered reports that the whole structure 1742), the small Church of the Archangel Michael (1601), and was not build very soundly and is danger of falling over, but so far a unique collection of windmills “vitriaky”. Next, on the hillside, so good. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr. you will come to the Podillia sector with the Church of Saint Admission to 36 m view point - 50Hr, 91m view point - 200Hr. Nicholas and a bell tower from the beginning of the 19th century, brought here from the Husiatyn area. At the centre National Art Museum (Natsional’nyi khudozhniy of the museum‘s territory the Poltavschyna and Slobozhan- muzey) C-5, M.Hrushevs’koho 6, MMaidan Nezalezhos- schyna complex is arranged. A little farther on, visitors can ti, tel. (+380) 44 278 13 57, www. namu.kiev.ua. Built see the Polissye sector dominated by the unique hip-roof in the late 19th century in the style of a Greek temple with a Voskresens‘ka Church (Rivnenschyna, 17th-18th century). six-column portico designed by Kyiv architects Horodets’kyi The exposition of village huts () here is unique for their and Boytsov, valuable collections largely unknown to Western age (1587 to 1687). In the northern part of the museum, the visitors are contained in the museum’s 21 galleries. Pieces Carpathian sector features scattered small farms, with the include Ukrainian icons, paintings, and sculptures from the bell tower of the ancient Pokrovs‘ka Church rising above. 14th century through the early 20th century. Works of revered But wait till you get inside these huts! There you will find artist and poet Taras Shevchenko, M.Pymonenko, K.Kostandi stunning exhibitions of traditional Ukrainian clothing, ce- and H.Narbut are some of the highlights of the museum. ramics, household and farming equipment, and of course QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. the stove. This was the centrepiece of any khata, and Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20Hr, kids 2Hr. was used for cooking, drying, heating and even sleeping. Pyrohovo is also a great park - a pleasant retreat with plenty of space for playing games with kids or for a leisurely afternoon in the shade of trees. If you want to get around faster, you may rent a bike or even hire a horseback ride. And if you care for your spiritual well-being, visit the church service on Sunday. Held in one of the museum‘s beautiful ancient wooden churches, it is a real adventure for your soul. Traditional fairs are organised at Pyrohovo in May and September, to mark the beginning and the end of the sea- son. But don‘t worry if you miss them. There are plenty of festivals and celebrations going on at Pyrohovo the whole season. Main national and religious holidays are celebrated here according to folk traditions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 15Hr. English-speaking guides available. National Art Museum kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 38 What to see

St Sophia Cathedral Mosaics & Frescos

National History Museum (Natsional’nyi istorych- 20th century for Ukraine was an artificially engineered by nyi muzey) C-2, Volodymyrs’ka 2, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Stalin’s regime Famine of 1932-1933, during which 3 941 (+380) 44 278 48 64. Located on a bluff above Andriivs’kyi 000 people died. Museum is dedicated to the victims of uzviz, this museum carries forth on a wide range of topics these awful tragedies. Excursions are held every hour from concerning Ukraine’s history from prehistoric times up to the 10:00. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. present day. There are extensive collections of old books, The One Street Museum (Muzey odniei vulytsi) coins and bills, works of art and archaeological and ethno- C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 2B, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. graphical findings. Behind the museum is a path that leads (+380) 44 425 03 98. This fascinating little museum near to a wonderful view from ’s highest point overlooking the bottom of Andriivs’kyi uzviz tells the rich history of this the lower town of Podil. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. important street through the years. Special attention is paid Admission 24Hr. to recreating the atmosphere of this thoroughfare during the PinchukArtCentre (Museum of Contemporary turn of the 20th century. While Andriivs'kyi Uzviz is under Art) A-5, Chervovoarmiis’ka 1-3, Arena Complex, reconstraction this is a good place to get known the street ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 590 08 58, www. better.QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20Hr. .org/en. PinchukArtCentre is one of the The Pharmacy Museum (Apteka-muzey) D-2, biggest contemporary art centres in the Eastern Europe. Prytys’ko-Mykils’ka 7, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. Among its main activities - exhibition running, cultural projects (+380) 44 425 24 37. You may be wondering just how much support, stipend granting to talented artists, etc. The first enjoyment can be had out of a museum whose sole subject “New Space” exhibition, opened at PinchukArtCentre from is the history of pharmaceuticals, but when you think of the 16th of September till 16th of December 2006, has been vital role drugs play in the lives of the capitals legions of cold attended by 35 000 persons. For current exhibitions visit sufferers it becomes clear that this cosy little museum is a PinchukArtCentre website.QOpen 12:00 - 21:00. Closed must of social history. The building is in great condition and Mon. Admission is free. dates back to 1728. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. The Bohdan and Varvara Khanenko Art Museum Admission 7Hr, 5Hr for children. (Muzey mystetstv imeni Bohdana ta Varvary The Spiritual Treasures of Ukraine (Muzey Khanenkiv) A-4, Tereshchenkivs’ka 15-17, ML’va C-3, Desiatynna 12, Tolstoho, tel.(+380) 44 235 02 06, www.khanenkomu- dukhovnykh skarbiv Ukrainy) MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 278 83 08. This museum seum.kiev.ua. The house was owned by a famous collector is the first private art museum in Ukraine. In bright spacious of art and benefactor Bohdan Khanenko (1849-1917), and halls of museum more than 300 first class works of Ukrain- his wife Varvara (1852-1922). In 1919, on the base of their ian icon-painters of 15th-19th centuries are presented from private collection, a museum was opened in this house. For almost all regions from West to East of Ukraine and more a long period of time it was known as Kyiv State Museum than 100 iconograthical images and themes. The museum of Western and Eastern Art. Now its initial name has been has also the collection of the works of the world-known given back. The embellishments of the collection are works Ukrainian painter Maria Prymachenko. 50 of her best works of outstanding Renaissance masters. Rich diversity of gen- of naive art are presented at the museum. QOpen 11:00 res distinguishes the museum’s holdings of North European - 19:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission 15Hr, for children countries. The exposition of Spanish art includes two true and students 5Hr. gems from the XVII century - “Portrait of Infant Margarita” by Diego Velasquez and “Still Life with Chocolate Milk” by Water Information Centre D-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 1C, Juan de Zurbaran. QOpen 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 53 33. Admission 15Hr, English tours 150Hr by appointment (group Anyone strolling through Khreschatyi Park (above European of 10-25 people). Square and The Philharmonic) will notice the two towers The National Museum “Memorial in Commemora- rising above the tree line. They host a museum of water, tion of Famines’ Victims in Ukraine” C-6, Lavrs’ka, which contains information on water resources: natural tel. (+380) 44 254 45 12, www.memorialgolodomors. water circulation, potable water purification, new technolo- org. During the whole existence of the regime gies and water’s chemical components. Entering the centre Ukrainian people endured horrible tragedies - famines of you descend in an elevator to a depth of 20 meters and 1921-1922, 1932-1933, 1946-1947, which took millions are confronted by fascinating exhibits. Admission adults of Ukrainian’s lives. The worst humanitarian catastrophe of 15Hr, children and students 10Hr. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com What to see 39

Lavra Lavra Museums & Exhibitions Museum of Historical Valuables J-3, Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 13 96. The Louvre, the Hermitage, or the Prado would be happy to have such a collection of Scythian gold. The gem of the collection is the Scythian queen’s neck adornment from the 4th century B.C. The 1.4-kilogram pectoral was made of pure gold by a master craftman of the time. Despite its very old age the well-preserved detailing is amazing. The second most important valuable is the silver bowl unearthed from the Gaiman Barrow and kept in a specially designed chamber filled with inert gas. This is far from all one can see in the nine halls of this museum. The treasures of Kyivan Rus, West-European and Jewish ceremonial silverware, and works by the best Ukrainian jewellers of the past and present can all be found here. QOpen 10:00 - 17:45. Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra J-3/4, Ivana Mazepy 21, Closed Mon. Admission 12Hr, students and children 6Hr. MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 280 30 71, www.kplavra. State Museum of Theatre, Music and Cinema Arts kiev.ua. The monastery which made Kyiv the “Rome” of of Ukraine J-3, Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, Orthodox Christianity and received pilgrims from all over tel. (+380) 44 280 18 34. The museum was created in 1923. Europe continues to attract droves of visitors today. Its Here we can see the so-called ’vertep’ (the Ukrainian puppet territory of 28ha contains not only churches, towers and theatre of the 18th century), playbills and pictures of the plays an underground cave system but also some of Kyiv’s most of different Ukrainian theatre troupes and the personal effects interesting museums. of famous artists and musicians. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. First about the name - the Ukrainian ’pechera’ means ’cave’, Closed Tue. Admission 6Hr, children and students 4Hr. while ’Lavra’ is an Orthodox term given to its largest monastery. Founded in 1051 by monks Antony and Feodosiy, the Lavra State Museum of Ukrainian Decorative Art J-3, was called to spread the newly-adopted Christian religion Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 throughout Kyivan Rus. Monks worshipped, lived and were 280 36 93. The original art of the Ukrainian people is widely buried in caves, where a cool and humid atmosphere enabled represented here: icons, decorated eggs, embroidery, cloth- their bodies to mummify naturally. This apparent miracle ing, pottery, glass, faience, etc. There are special displays further enhanced the monastery’s reputation. The monks’ devoted to the work of the famous artists Kateryna Bilokur bodies have been almost perfectly preserved to this day, a and Mariya Pryimachenko. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed fact you can see yourself by descending into the caves with a Tue. Admission 5Hr, children and students 3Hr. candle to lead the way. Of particular interest are those monks Ukrainian State Museum of Books and Printing so humble that they only allowed their feet to be exposed. J-3 Ivana Mazepy 21 (Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) Women are required to wear scarves, which are provided if 44 280 22 10. The museum is located in the space for- you don’t have your own. English tours can be arranged at merly occupied by the Lavra typography, which was built the ticket kiosk or with nice old ladies inside the entrance. in the 18th century. The collection includes manuscript The Lavra became a leading religious and cultural focal volumes from the times of Kyivan Rus, the first Ukrainian point of Eastern Europe in the 12th century. Studios for printed editions of the Lviv ’Apostle’ (1574) by Ivan Fedorov icon painting and the creation of mosaics served many (Ukraine’s first printer), the ’Ostroh Bible’ as well as fine Kyiv churches, and a scriptorium oversaw translating of examples of old Ukrainian book illustrations and many foreign literature into Slavic. The influential Slavic history other rare exhibits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. “The Chronicle of Bygone Years” was written here by the Admission 5Hr, children and students 2Hr. historian Nestor. Other notable features include the burial Exibition of Microminiatures by M.Syadrystyi J-3, site of Yuri Dolgorukiy, the founder of Moscow, inside the Sicnevoho Povstannia 21(Lavra), MArsenal’na, tel. Church of the Saviour of Berestovo; and the 18th-century (+380) 44 280 81 37, www.microart.kiev.ua. A world of bell tower, the highest in all of Ukraine at 96m. wonder is presented for the visitors of this inimitable exhibition. Following years of Communist rule, the government has recently The exhibits displayed here are so tiny that they can be seen returned many buildings to the Orthodox Church. The monastery only under the microscope. Every work of art is exceptionally is once again operational in the form of Kyiv Theological Semi- unique and have been made by the craftsman M.Syadrystyi, nary and Academy. There are also many museums on the terri- Honorary Master of Ukrainian . His creative art inspired tory, the best of which are listed below.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. the creation of a new world - “microminiature”. QOpen 9:30 - Admission for foreigner: adults 16Hr, children 8Hr. 13:30, 14:30 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 10Hr, children 3Hr.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 40 SPORT & LEISURE Mail & Phones

Billiards & Bowling Fitness clubs 5th Element Club Elektrykiv 29A, MKontraktova Chameleon G-2, Peremohy prosp. 3, “Ukraine” Shop- Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 351 77 33, www.5el.com.ua/ ping Mall, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 496 17 17, eng/. Q Open Mon-Fri 07:00-23:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-23:00. www.club300.com.ua. Chameleon is the only bowling club in downtown Kyiv. It is located on the third floor of Ukraina Aquarium Fitness Centre O-1, Heroiv Stalinhrada Mall. There are ten bowling lanes, a bar, and a restaurant 45, MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 239 22 22. QOpen in the club. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. 99-198Hr per hour. 07:00 - 23:00. Jumbo O-4, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 20B, MPetrivka, Atlant A-5, Pushkins’ka 42/4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. tel. (+380) 44 390 53 77, www.jumbo.kiev.ua. (+380) 44 279 85 73. This bowling club is located on the fourth floor of the Club Olympus C-3, Tarasova 5A (Hyatt Regency Kyiv Plazma Shopping Centre, and is the biggest in Kyiv; thirty Hotel), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 Brunswick bowling lanes compensate the distance from 40, www.kyiv.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 06:00 - 23:30. downtown. There is individual lane polishing for profes- sionals and ten bowling lanes with bumpers for beginners. Favourite V.I.P. Club C-5, Muzeinyi prov. 6, MMaidan Qualified instructors are also available. The fine for hitting Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 33 38. QOpen the screen hanging over the lane with the ball is 6000Hr. 07:00 - 23:00. Bowl carefully. QOpen 24hrs. 84-216Hr per hour. Kodokan C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 3, MMaidan Nezalezh- Machaon L-2, Luhova 12, Karavan Shopping Mall, nosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 01 01. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, MObolon’, tel. (+380) 44 206 43 33, www.club300. Mon, Sat 09:00 - 21:00. com.ua. Like other bowling clubs, Machaon is situated in a shopping mall and is a popular relaxation venue after Horse riding lots of shopping. The club has ten bowling lanes. Q 78-198Hr per hour. Butenko Stable Komsomol’s’ka 12, Protsiv Village, Bo- rispil District, tel. (+380) 44 593 80 33, horseowner@mail. Maximum Dekabrystiv 12/37, MKharkivs’ka, tel. ru, www.butenko-stable.com.ua. Elite horse club, restaurant, (+380) 44 562 62 62. Your bowling options at Maxi- grill-bar, park-hotel. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AUL mum include the cosmic variety, for which you’ll pay fairly astronomic prices of up to 198Hr/h - at more sensible times the hourly price is as low as 78Hr. But this Left Bank Year-round skating rings complex offers much more: a restaurant, six bars, billiards, disco, casino and striptease dancing. Plus fun kid’s activi- Bil’shovyk E-2, Het’mana 6 (Bil’shovyk shopping mall), ties every Sunday at 12:00. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sun MShuliavs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 50. QOpen 08:00- 11:00 - 06:00. POTALEGB 03:00. Admission 25-55Hr for adults, 15-35Hr for children. Mayak N-5, Moskovs’kyi prosp. 17/1, MPetrivka, Ice Arena Kyivs’ka 136, Brovary (Terminal Shopping tel. (+380) 44 464 69 01. The Mayak Billiard Club is Mall), MLisova, tel. (+380) 44 200 13 06. QOpen 09:30 one of the most prestigious in Ukraine. The interiors - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for adults, 20-30Hr for children. are designed to be in perfect harmony with the green Ice Dream N-2, Obolons’kyi prosp. (between ’ baize of the tables, and every kind of billiards is on offer, and Metro stations), MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 from American pool to English snooker and the Russian 428 36 11. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Admission 30-50Hr for pyramid. Admission 60-70Hr. QOpen 24hrs. adults, 20-35Hr for children. Mirage A-1, Artema 37/41, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. Karavan L-2, Luhova 9 (Karavan Shopping mall), (+380) 44 461 90 87. Is this really the same game MMins’ka, tel. (+380) 44 461 82 06. QOpen 08:15 - that beer-guzzling rednecks play in the heartland of 23:15. Admission and 45 minutes of skating costs 30-50Hr America? The comparison stops fairly abruptly with the for adults, 10-25Hr for children. equipment, which is the same, thankfully. Not only can you enjoy the six sublime lanes, you can also gamble, shoot pool, dance, drink, dine and even sing karaoke. Swimming pools QOpen 24hrs. POAL Olymp H-4, Dymytrova 10, MOlimpiyska, tel. (+380) 44 287 61 49. You’ll pay 60Hr for a 45-minutes swim at M Strike Peremohy prosp. 84, , tel. (+380) Olimp. Regular vistors can go 10 times for 540Hr and save 44 501 01 10, www.strike.kiev.ua. For the pleasure 60 hryvnas. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun of knocking down pretty white pins with a heavy ball at 09:00 - 16:00. Strike, the prices start at a reasonable 66Hr/h before 17:00 and then climb to a whopping hourly rate of 216Hr Yunist J-5, Bastionna 7, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. after 22:00. We know it‘s only bowling, but you‘ll need (+380) 44 285 21 22. Open air swimming pool.QOpen to dress up a little if you’re hoping to fit in with the “New 06:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Admission 65-75Hr for a Ukrainian” crowd. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Mon 17:00 - 45-minutes swim. 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PTAILGBK Ultramarin G-3, Uritskoho 1A, MVokzal’na, tel. Tennis courts (+380) 44 206 03 51/(+380) 44 206 03 53, www. ultramarine.com.ua. The Ultramarine club was one NSK Olimpiyskiy Chervonoarmiys’ka 55, MOlimpi- of the first bowling clubs in Ukraine. It has the fastest yska, tel. (+380) 44 246 70 07. pin spotter in the city, 18 bowling lanes, three tables Podil Tennis Courts N-6, Mezhyhirs’ka 56/63A, for Russian billiards, and two for American billiards. MTarasa Shevchenko, tel. (+380) 44 451 58 58. QOpen QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. 07:00 - 23:00.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Mail & Phones 41

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never Using a telephone arrive at its intended destination, which is quite annoying. Fixed line telephone Connections involving fixed line telephones are often bad, To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a long- sometimes incorporating another conversation into yours distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and then dial or going dead in mid-conversation. Mobile phones are already very popular, and the internet is getting there. the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Kyiv’s city code (44) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait for the tone, and then Post dial 0 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Ukrainian city codes Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 38, www.ukr- Cherkasy 47 Kirovohrad 52 Rivne 36 poshta.com. Kyiv’s main post office can’t be missed. The Chernihiv 46 Kyiv 44 Sevastopol 69 Poshtamt (поштамт) is on a corner of Maidan Nezalezhnosti Chernivtsi 37 Kyiv Region 45 Simferopol 65 opposite the tall monument. A myriad of windows as well as colourful pictures of city landmarks await in the main hall Dnipropetrovsk 56 Luhansk 64 Sumy 54 straight ahead. The less intimidating hall to the right offers a Donetsk 62 Lutsk 33 Ternopil 35 wide selection of postcards and hosts a 24-hour Internet café Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv 32 Uzhhorod 31 upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Kharkiv 57 Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa 43 Kherson 55 Odesa 48 Zaporizhya 61 Express mail Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava 53 Zhytoymyr 41 DHL Vasyl’kivs’ka 1, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 26 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 00/258 25 00/258 17 66, www.dhl.com.ua. Express- “0” if dialing from another Ukrainian town. centres: Business-centre “Kyiv-Donbass” Pushkins’ka 42/4, International country codes 1st floor M L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 26 00; Travel Company “SAM” Ivana Franka 40 B, M tel. (+380) Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 44 238 69 85/238 69 51; QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Federal Express Kikvidze 44, MDruzhby Narodiv, tel. Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 (+380) 44 495 20 20, fax (+380) 44 495 20 39, www. Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 fedex.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 TNT Moskovs’kyi prosp. 28A, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 44 207 07 70, fax (+380) 44 207 07 80, www.tnt.com. France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A The above International country codes should be prefixed UPS H-4, Mechnykova 20, MKlovs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 with “0-0” if dialing from inside Ukraine. 280 00 00, fax (+380) 44 280 10 19, www.ups.com. Roaming QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine use +380 followed by the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile phone, Internet cafés use the operator’s code instead of a city code. Central Post Office C-4, Khreschatyk 22, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 230 08 51. QOpen 24hrs. Laptop login G-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka Vault 13 Computer Club Wi-Fi 19, ML’va Tolstoho. Internet 09:00 - 23:00 3Hr/h, 23:00 There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi - 09:00 2Hr/h, Fri, Sat 3 Hr/h. Consultation 12Hr/h. Printing, scanning. 60 PCs, intranet. QOpen 24hrs. connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the Wi-Fi symbol in our guide. The service is free at a few hotels Mobile phones and restaurants, but usually the connection costs around 10Hr There are 2 types of mobile phone numbers in Kyiv: direct per hour. To access paid Wi-Fi connections, buy a prepaid card numbers (which do not differ from the Kyiv fixed line numbers, (worth 10, 20, 24, or 50Hr, usually good for one month from and may be dialed as such), and mobile numbers (these the day of activation). You can buy the cards at the reception should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code). SMS may stands in the hotels and at bars and restaurants. not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign 3G & 4G a contract or show your documents to use the local provider’s There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offer- service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, ing 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found buy cards to refill your account at these same places. at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres KyivStar GSM I-4, Ivana Mazepy 24, MArsenal’na, tel. (+380) 44 466 04 66/466 24 66, www.kyivstar.net/en/. can also refill your account and help with setting up a con- nection to the Internet. Life E-6, Solom’yans’ka 11A, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 800 20 54 33, fax (+380) 44 463 70 56, http://life. com.ua.  The Kyiv MTS I-5, Leiptsyz’ka 15, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 240 00 00, www.mts.com.ua/eng. telephone code is +380 44 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 42 Getting around

Universal Flights Sales Agency B-3, Zolotovorits’ka Airline ticket offices 13, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 206 75 76, www. Aeroflot G-3, Saksahans’koho 112A, MVokzal’na, tel. ufsa.com.ua. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. (+380) 44 241 99 98, fax (+380) 44 245 48 81, www. aeroflot.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Airports Boryspil State International Airport , tel. (+380) 44 A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office 7A, ML’va AeroSvit 281 72 43/(+380) 44 281 76 90, www.airport-borispol. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 490 34 90, www.aerosvit.com. kiev.ua. Boryspil lies 34km east of the city. Buses and mini- QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 19:00. vans departing roughly every 30 minutes from in front of the Air Baltic A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniversytet, Southern Train Station make the trip in an hour or so for a tel. (+380) 44 238 26 49/238 26 68, fax (+380) 44 fare of 30Hr - but the schedule can be erratic. Taxis from the 238 62 71, www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. centre cost about 150Hr and take from 30 to 45 minutes. Closed Sat, Sun. Inside the airport, a bar near passport control offers internet Alitalia – Compagnia Aerea Italiana S.p.A. A-5, I. access. Check-in is quick, giving you more than enough time Franko 34/33, 2nd floor, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) to visit the two bars and one duty-free shop in the cavernous 44 492 72 22/390 90 93, www.alitalia.com. QOpen departure lounge. 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 92, Austrian Airlines A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va tel. (+380) 44 242 23 08/(+380) 44 242 23 09, www. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 289 20 32/289 20 33/289 airport.kiev.ua. Just 8km from Kyiv’s centre, Zhulyany can 20 34, fax (+380) 44 490 34 94, www.aua.com.ua. be reached by taxi for 40Hr in 20 minutes. Trolleybus N°9 will QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. take you there in 30-40 minutes from South Train Station. Extremely inconsistent shuttle buses run between Zhulyany British Airways A-3, B.Khmelnyts’koho 48B, 6th floor, and Boryspil with intervals from 30 minutes to two hours. M Universytet, tel. (+380) 44 585 50 50, fax (+380) QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. 44 585 50 51, www.ba.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Long-distance buses KLM A-3, Ivana Franka 34/33, 2nd floor, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 490 24 90, fax (+380) 44 495 Central Bus Station H-5, Moskovs’ka pl. 3, MDemiivs’ka, 24 06, www.klm.ua. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - tel. (+380) 44 525 57 74. Schedules for departure and arrival 15:00. Closed Sun. A are arranged by geographical direction and posted on columns. International destinations are listed opposite the café area. Lufthansa A-3, B.Khmel’nyts’koho 52, MUniversytet, Questions should be directed to windows 8 and 10 - just don’t tel. (+380) 44 490 38 00, fax (+380) 44 490 38 01, count on the answer being in English. Two private bus lines have www.lufthansa.com. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - offices inside the station: Autolux (www.autolux.ua) and Gunsel. 16:00. Closed Sun. A Their services to major Ukrainian cities offer air conditioning, Ukraine International Airlines B-3, Lysenka 4, comfortable seating and refreshments. All Autolux buses make MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 581 50 50, booking@ stops first at the central train and then bus stations, and also ps.kiev.ua, www.flyuia.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sun at Boryspil Airport. You may be better off leaving from a regional 08:00 - 18:00. bus station providing more extensive routes. Domestic flight schedule

From Kyiv To Kyiv Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:00 20:00 1 2 3 4 5 - - 09:00 10:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:00 08:00 1 2 3 4 5 - - 13:00 14:00 DNIPROPETROVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 11:00 12:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 07:00 08:20 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:20 10:45 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:30 22:40 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:50 21:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:45 15:00 DONETSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 17:00 18:20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:20 22:30 IVANO-FRANKIVS’K (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 06:40 07:45 1 2 3 4 5 - - 08:45 09:50 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 06:50 07:55 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 15:20 16:25 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 10:35 11:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:00 22:05 KHARKIV (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:00 19:05 1 2 3 4 5 - - 20:45 22:30 LUHANSK (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:00 08:45 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 10:00 11:30 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 16:00 17:30 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:40 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 09:40 11:15 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:15 20:50 LVIV (AeroSvit) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 17:45 19:05 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 19:50 21:20 LVIV (PS) 1 - 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:30 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:50 09:00 ODESA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 09:00 10:05 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00 15:10 ODESA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 17:30 18:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:30 22:40 ODESA (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 - 19:30 20:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:45 21:10 SIMFEROPOL (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 07:00 08:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:05 22:30 SIMFEROPOL (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:10 19:40 1 2 3 4 5 - 7 19:05 20:45 UZHGOROD (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 06:30 08:10 1 2 3 4 5 - - 20:05 21:20 ZAPORIZHIYA (AeroSvit) 1 2 3 4 5 - - 07:20 08:35

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Getting around 43

Car rental Avis H-4, Yams’ka 72, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 502 20 10, fax (+380) 44 502 20 14, www.avis.com.ua/ en. Also at: Boryspil’ Airport, Terminal F, tel.: (+380) 44 591 70 09, [email protected]. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Budget H-3, Ivana Lepse 4, MBeresteis’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 10 88, [email protected], www.budget.ua. Also at Boryspil airport , tel.: (+380) 44 591 69 87. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Europcar H-3, Gorkoho 48A, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 238 26 91, fax (+380) 44 238 26 92, ua@europcar. relc.com, www.europcar.ua. Car and minivan rental. Chauf- feur service is available. Q A Hertz Rent a Car Zdolbunivs’ka 7D, MPozniaky, tel. (+380) 44 492 32 70, fax (+380) 44 492 32 73, www. hertz.ua/en. One-way rentals. Chauffeur available. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A Sixt G-2, Dmytrievs’ka 46, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 81 58, www.sixt.ua. Minimal rental period - 24hrs. Q A Trains Central/Southern Train Station G-3, Vokzal’na pl. 1, MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 465 21 11, www.uz.gov.ua. Large departure and arrival schedules are on the walls in both stations. More schedule and ticket information can be accessed using computers that look like ATMs in the main halls. Windows N°40 and 41 for foreigners and international trains are located in the southern station. Almost all trains contain three classes: SV, two-person compartments; coupe, four-person compartments; and platskart, harder beds and no compartments. Domestic train schedule International train schedule

From Kyiv City To Kyiv From Kyiv City To Kyiv Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. Dep. Arr. 18:00 20:30 (1-7) CHERNIHIV (1-7) 17:24 20:20 17:36 22:37 ( 2,3,5,7) ASTANA (2,4,6,7) 11:15 09:52 18:36 09:44 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7) 16:44 08:04 06:20 22:30 (5) BAKU (1) 23:30 16:15 06:41 12:30 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 17:45 23:34 08:00 07:30 (1-7) BERLIN (1-7) 21:13 22:52 (1-7) 23:58 05:24 (2,3,5-7) BRATISLAVA 13:47 20:00 17:15 23:00 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK 07:00 12:45 (1,2,4,5,7) (1-7) 09:53 09:47 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7) 18:15 20:00 19:21 07:10 (1-7) DONETSK (1-7) 19:25 07:01 15:40 19:13 (1-7) BUCHAREST (1-7) 06:38 09:29 17:30 23:20 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 07:05 12:55 01:40 20:12 (1-7) CHISINAU (1-7) 11:50 02:04 22:25 23:20 (1-7) KHARKIV (1-7) 16:27 22:17 20:42 15:25 ( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7) 13:05 10:21 21:44 10:15 (1-7) KHERSON (1-7) 20:30 09:21 18:18 06:01 (1-7) MINSK (1-7) 20:50 08:50 01:41 10:46 (1-7) KHMELNYTSKIY 11:44 19:48 14:35 05:33 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 16:46 05:10 (1-7) 19:07 09:00 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 20:23 07:47 17:04 23:29 (2-7) LVIV (1,3-7) 06:35 13:00 20:09 06:39 (1-7) MOSCOW (1-7) 23:23 08:80 22:15 06:32 (1-7) LVIV (1-7) 19:27 10:35 20:42 06:48 (1-7) PRAGUE (1-7) 21:24 10:21 16:20 09:25 (1-7) LUHANSK (1-7) 18:55 11:32 20:42 09:26 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7) 16:53 10:21 19:03 05:55 (1-7) MYKOLAIV (1-7) 19:16 05:37 15:40 06:05 (1-7) SOFIA (1-7) 19:30 09:29 15:25 05:13 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 18:42 06:48 09:35 10:44 (1-7) ST.-PETERSBURG 21:20 20:20 22:59 08:50 (1-7) ODESA (1-7) 23:00 07:37 (1-7) 17:51 08:45 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7) 16:26 07:41 13:10 07:00 (1-7) WARSAW (1-7) 21:04 14:40 12:52 06:16 (1-7) SEVASTOPOL (1-7) 13:24 07:08 20:42 20:27 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7) 08:15 10:21 20:21 13:06 (1-7) SEVASTOPOL (1-7) 18:20 11:21 23:58 06:58 (2,3,5-7) VIENNA (1,2,4,5,7) 11:28 20:00 18:42 11:31 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7) 15:55 09:53 09:53 07:16 (7) VENICE (3) 21:27 20:00 20:27 06:42 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7) 19:25 05:58 09:53 22:22 (4) ZAGREB (6) 07:20 20:00 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 44 Public Transport Shopping

A plethora of mass transit options are available to get you around Kyiv. However, the existing trolleybuses (electric Funicular buses), trams (streetcars), buses, metro, microbuses and minivans are not enough to prevent frequent overcrowding. Since 1905, Kyiv’s funicular has Don’t take the jostling personally, don’t inhale too deeply but carried passengers between Podil, do give up your seat to the elderly and mothers with children. on the bank of the Dnipro, and the Public transport starts running around 05:45 and closes heights of Mykhailivs’ka ploscha. down a bit after midnight. It offers not only a means of get- ting from A to B, but also a rising The metro panoramic view of the Dnipro River The metro is the jewel of the Kyiv transport system. While traf- and the forested left bank. After fic snarls vehicles above ground, trains underground deliver perusing the art and souvenirs of passengers in a more timely and reliable fashion. Thought- Andrew’s Descent (Andriivs’kyi uzviz), you may forego provoking Soviet designs inside stations help pass the time “Andrew’s Ascent” and catch the funicular at Poshtova while waiting for the next train. Life isn’t perfect, though, and ploscha metro. You will be delivered just behind the neither is the metro. Personal space can become alarmingly spectacular St. Michael’s Cathedral. Fares are 1.50Hr for tight, especially during rush hour and at night when trains adults, and children under seven ride free. run less frequently. Kyivites like to grumble about the recent fare hikes, but fees are, in fact, dirt cheap relative to those ets are good for one journey only. 30 day pass for trolleys, in other European cities. Purchase your one way blue token trams and buses cost 160Hr. 30 day combo-pass for all for 2Hr from the expressionless booth attendant or from the types of surface transport can also be bought at kiosks automatic dispensers. Proceed to the row of gates, insert and go for 230Hr. your token and wait a second for the red light to turn green so the jaws of death don’t maim you. Monthly passes can be Microbuses and minivans purchased from all token booths and are good from the first of the month. Pass rates are as follows: 15 days - 48Hr, The privately-owned marshrutkas (маршрутки) or route 30 days - 95Hr. taxis (usually yellow) stop at bus stops along specified routes. Many run the same routes as trolleys or buses and use the same numbers. Otherwise, try to read the main Trolleybuses, trams and buses stops posted on the vehicle’s windshield or side window These are favoured by schoolchildren, the working class and before it speeds by. Marshrutkas will definitely get you from babushkas and dedushkas. They won’t get you anywhere in A to B faster than other forms of municipal transport, as they a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday are smaller and more manoeuvrable; an important feature Ukrainian life. Single tickets for trolleys, trams and buses on Kyiv’s jammed roads. Just flag it down as you would a can be purchased for 1.50Hr from street kiosks or from taxi, then tell the driver “na zupyntsi, budlaska” (“on the conductors and the driver on board. You should immediately stop, please”) when you’ve had enough. Fares are paid as validate your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets you board and currently range from 2 to 3Hr, but are likely around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a to increase. You don’t have to punch your ticket and there 40Hr fine by not one but two roaming inspectors. All tick- are no monthly passes available. M

Heroiv Dnipra Героїв Дніпра

Mins’ka Мінська

Obolon Syrets Оболонь Сирець Petrivka Dorohozhychy Петрівка Tarasa Shevchenka Дорогожичі Тараса Шевченка Luk’yanivs’ka Kontraktova Ploscha Лук’янівська Контрактова площа Akademmistechko Лісова Академмістечко Poshtova Ploscha Nyvky Beresteis’ka Поштова Площа Chernihivs’ka Золоті Ворота Khreschatyk Нивки Берестейська Хрещатик Maidan Nezalezhnosti Чернігівська Shuliavs’ka Zoloti Vorota Майдан Незалежності Дарниця Шулявська Teatral’na Arsenal’na Universytet Арсенальна Livoberezhna Університет Лівобережна Zhytomyrs’ka Святошин Hydropark Житомирська Palats Sportu L’va Tolstoho Гідропарк Льва Толстого Dnipro Chervonyi Khutir Politekhnichnyi Instytut Палац спорту Дніпро Політехнічний інститут Vokzal’na Червоний Хутір Вокзальна Klovs’ka Кловська Olympiis’ka Boryspil’s’ka Олімпійська Pechers’ka Бориспільська Печерська Palats Ukraina Vyrlytsia Палац Україна Druzhby Narodiv Вирлиця Lybids’ka Дружби народів Либідська Kharkivs’ka Харківська Видубичі Demiivs’ka Позняки Деміївська Slavutych Осокорки Vystavkovyi Tsentr Vasyl’kivs’ka Holosiivs’ka Славутич Виставковий центр Васильківська Голосіївська

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Public Transport Shopping 45

Shopping malls Bil‘shovyk E-2, Vadyma Hetmana 6, MShuliavs‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 200 07 54, www.trc-bolshevik.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PAULW Dream Town N-2, Obolonskiy prosp. 1B, MObolon, Min- ska, tel. (+380) 44 428 36 11, www.dreamtown.kiev.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUL Globus C-4, Maidan Nezalezhnosti (Underground), MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 590 18 93/590 18 96, www.globus.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Metrograd B-5, Bessarabs‘ka ploscha (underground), ML‘va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 247 56 65, www.metro- grad.com. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Sky Mall E-2, Henerala Vatutina 2T, MPetrivka, tel. (+380) 44 371 41 30, www.skymall.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PAUL Antiques Antique Centre D-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 3, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 425 12 37. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Antiques Salon H-3, Gorkoho 11, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 287 37 58. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Belle Epoque C-2, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 34, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 278 39 55. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Gelos D-3, Sahaidachnoho 14, MPoshtova Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 99 27. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Fashion Atelier 1 A-4, Shevchenka bul’v. 10 (entrance from the yard), tel. (+380) 44 288 05 50/599 31 80, art@atelier1. com.ua. The only truly concept store in Ukraine based at the former bunker right at the heart of Kyiv. Atelier 1’s selling the most conceptual collections of menswear and womenswear from Japan and France (Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Peachoo and Krejberg, Comme des Garcons Parfums. Acces- sories, Bags) and Ukrainian Designers international collections. The Shop is divided into zones: collection rooms, Boiler room, Parfum Vault and Strong room. New format of Canteen is avail- able. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. PA6LW Food & Drink Furshet B-5, Baseina 4, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 230 95 21. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Also at: G-1, Yaroslavs’ka 57, tel. 417 03 50. Open 24 hrs. L-2, Lunachars’koho 22, tel. 593 27 80. Open 09:00 -23:00. E-4, Starovokzal’na 23, tel. 234 57 42. Open 07:00 - 23:00. G-6, Gorkoho 165, tel. 521 16 20. Open 00:00 - 24:00. Megamarket H-4, Gorkoho 50, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 248 73 87. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. Also at: N-5, Moskovs‘kyi prospect 6, open 09:00 - 24:00; F-3, Surikova 3, open 09:00 - 23:00. A Kids Antoshka I-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 19/16, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 286 26 21. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Daniel C-5, Myzeinyi prov. 2B, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 69 00. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. A Kazka Nova H-3, Chervonoarmyis‘ka 54, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 287 27 02. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Lapin House A-5, H-3, Shota Rustaveli 34, MPalats Sportu, tel. (+380) 44 246 68 16. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 46 Lifestyle directory

The IB World School in Kyiv

PECHERSK SCHOOL INTERNATIONAL, KYIV www.psi.kiev.ua 7a, Victora Zabily Str. Tel: (+38044) 455-9585 Fax: (+38044) 455-9580 [email protected]

and TORCh infections (PCR detection method). Complex 24-hours Pharmacies diagnostic programmes (therapy, cardiology, gastroenterol- ogy, immunology and allergology). QOpen 24hrs, Sat 08:00 Apteka #24 A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 10, ML’va Tol- - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. A stoho, tel. (+380) 44 235 43 08. Dobrobut G-1, Pymonenka 10, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. Bosm Pharm A-3, T.Shevchenka bul’v. 17, MUniver- (+380) 44 495 28 88/(+380) 44 495 28 88, www. sytet, tel. (+380) 44 235 50 17. med.dobrobut.com. Emergency services, consultations Falbi D-1, Mezhyhirs’ka 3/7, MKontraktova Ploscha, for adults and children, in-patient unit, diagnostics, medical tel. (+380) 44 425 00 40. assistance and transportation of patients within Kyiv, Ukraine and abroad. Also at ’ka 2E; Povitroflots’kyi prosp. 38; Beauty salons prosp. Komarova 3, corp. 5. QOpen 24hrs. Dessange B-4, Volodymyrs’ka 49A, MZoloti Vorota, tel. Laboratory Dr. Roedger I-4, Staronavodnyts’ka 13 (+380) 44 569 60 00, www.dessange.com.ua. Also at section A, office 48, MPechers’ka, tel. (+380) 44 569 C-3, Hyatt Regency Hotel, tel. (+380) 44 537 63 00. QOpen 28 28, [email protected]. Offers a full range of labora- 08:00 - 21:00. A tory analyses. Samples are sent twice a week to Berlin in Germany for processing. They will give you a full run-down Diva Health & Beauty Centre A-3, B.Khmel’nytskoho of your clinical health. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 53/53, Opera Hotel, MUniversytet, tel. (+380) 44 492 15:00. Closed Sun. 74 92, www.opera-hotel.com. SPA Naturel C-3, Tarasovoi 5A, Hyatt Regency Kyiv Dentists Hotel, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 Avanto D-1, Kostiantynivs’ka 22/17A, MKontraktova 40, www.kiev.regency.hyatt.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Ploscha, tel. (+380) 44 531 37 97, www.avanto.com. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Clinics & Hospitals MedLife Elite F-1, Yakira 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. American Medical Centre F-1, Berdychivs’ka 1, (+380) 44 238 66 26. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 76 00, www. amcenters.com. Individual, family and corporate medical MedLife Lux O-2, Heroiv Stalingrada 20, MMins’ka, tel. plans. Children’s health. Women health. 24hrs emergency (+380) 44 412 21 23. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. visit, hospitalisation or evacuation abroad. QOpen 24hrs. Prisma D-3, Sahaidachnoho 25, MPoshtova Ploscha, CMD G-1, Pymonenka 10A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) tel. (+380) 44 425 14 04. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. 44 239 12 23, www.cmd.kiev.ua. A full spectrum of labo- ratory tests with results within 24hrs. Urologist, andrologist, sexopathologist. Gynaecologist, gynaecologist-endocri- Dry cleaners & laundries nologist. Molecular. diagnostics of all sexually transmitted Alberti Angelo A-5, Lva Tolstoho 6, MLva Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 50 702 59 66. Also at: Basseina 3, tel. (+380) 67 235 87 92; B.Khmelnytskoho 68, tel. (+380) 44 234 62 39. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. UnMomento B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 16B, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 238 21 93. Also at: C-3, Desiatynna 13, tel. (+380) 67 657 07 11; A-5, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. (+380) 44 234 21 93; A-3, I.Franko 24A, tel. (+380) 44 234 61 05. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella I-5, Mala Zhytomyrs’ka 5, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 278 20 96. Also at: D-1, Schekavyts’ka 9A, tel. (+380) 44 417 14 33; A-1, Turgenivs’ka 80, tel. (+380) 44 486 88 91. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Lifestyle directory 47

Opticians Centre of the ophtalmology and aestetic medi- cine AILAS Bazhana prosp. 12A, MOsokorky, tel./fax (+380) 44 291 01 91, www.ailas.com.ua. In this clinic you will find the latest laser technology and modern methods of treatment are used in this centre of ophthalmologic and aes- thetic medicine. Patients are provided with a wide spectrum of solutions, from therapy to laser surgery, to improve their quality of life. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Language courses Echo Eastern Europe J-4, Lesi Ukrainky bul‘v. 29, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 361 86 50/(+380) 68 707 48 47, www.echoee.com. Russian and Ukrainian. One- to-one and group classes with professional tutors. Flexible approach. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. English language centre I-4, Kutuzova 4A, MPechers‘ka, tel. (+380) 44 581 19 89, www.elckiev. org. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Monarch International Language Academy Tol- More than 20 kinds of massages bukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 451 78 39, www. monarchila.kiev.ua. Lessons and courses in Russian, and SPA treatments Ukrainian, English, German and French. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. High-quali ed masseurs Novamova B-3, Yaroslaviv Val 14V, office 28, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 234 12 70/(+380) 44 237 from Bangkok, ailand 77 50, www.learnrussiankiev.com. One of the top the Russian-language training institutes. NovaMova provides conversational practice, guest speaker lectures, Russian Relax atmosphere movie club, field trips and various sightseeing tours QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. PA Discount programs and club cards Massage Kinari Oriental SPA A-3, Ivana Franka 40, MUniver- sytet, tel. (+380) 44 234 53 40/(+380) 93 620 60 Gi certi cates 40, www.kinari-spa.com.ua.Just what Kyiv’s city centre needed: traditional Thai massage and oriental SPA treat- ments. Qualified therapists are on hand to heal both body and soul and help put a bit of calming balance back into your hectic life. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Swedish Massage tel. (+380) 44 816 26 38, www. pleasure-massage.com. Swedish massage centre offers relaxing classical massage services. QOpen 24hrs. International schools Collège Français Anne de Kiev A-3, Chapaieva 21, MZoloti Vorota, tel. (+380) 44 200 19 93, fax (+380) 44 200 19 97, secretariat-kiev@[email protected], www. adk.org.ua. Primary and secondary school (3-17 years). French cirriculum. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Pechersk School International Zabily 7A, MLybids’ka, tel. (+380) 44 455 95 85, www.psi. kiev.ua. The British International School (Primary) Scherba- kova 36A, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 20 77, primary@ bisk.kiev,ua, www.britishschool.kiev.ua. The British International School (Secondary) Tol- bukhina 45, MNyvky, tel. (+380) 44 400 21 10, recep- [email protected], www.britishschool.kiev.ua.

kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012 48 RestauBusinessrants directory Adult entertainment

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assistance in ukraine Business representative www.assist-ukr.com skype: assist-ukr +38 (050) 381 14 13 Accountants & Consulting Accounting Solutions C-6, Instytuts’ka 19B, office 29, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 362 58 00/(+380) 44 581 12 20, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@acsoinua. com, www.acsoinua.com. Apple Consulting A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, office National Bank of Ukraine 8, ML’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 495 27 28, fax (+380) 44 495 27 70, www.applecons.com.ua. Deloitte & Touche H-3, Zhylians’ka 48-50A, Deloitte Business connections Business centre, MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 44 490 90 American Chamber of Commerce in Ukraine H-4, 00, fax (+380) 44 490 90 01, www.deloitte.com.ua. Amosova 12, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 490 58 00, fax (+380) 44 490 58 01, www.chamber.ua. Grant Thornton F-1, Dehtiarivs’ka 4A, MLuk’yanivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 230 47 78, fax (+380) 44 230 48 40, British Ukrainian Chamber of Commerce (BUCC) www.gtukraine.com. C-4, M.Hrushevs’koho 34A, suite 42, MArsenal’na, tel. Ernst & Young B-4, Khreschatyk 19A, MKhreschatyk, (+380) 44 410 57 20, fax (+380) 44 230 21 51, admin- tel. (+380) 44 490 30 00, fax (+380) 44 490 30 30, strator@bucc. com.ua, www.bucc.com.ua. www.ey.com/ua. Chief Department of Foreign Economic Relations KPMG C-3, Mykhailivs’ka 11, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, and Investments B-4, Khreschatyk 44, MKhres- tel. (+380) 490 55 07, fax (+380) 490 55 08, www. chatyk, tel./fax (+380) 44 278 18 71. kpmg.kiev.ua. European Business Association (EBA) D-2, PricewaterhouseCoopers G-3, Zhylians’ka 75, Andriivs’kyi uzviz 1A, MKontraktova Ploscha, tel. MVokzal’na, tel. (+380) 44 490 67 77, fax (+380) 44 (+380) 44 496 06 01, fax (+380) 44 496 06 02, office@ 490 67 38, www.pwc.com. eba.com.ua, www.eba.com.ua. General Direction of Attendance to Foreign Rep- Banks resentatives B-3, Strilets’ka 14, MZoloti Vorota, tel. OTP Bank A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 9/2, ML’va Tol- (+380) 44 482 01 90, fax (+380) 44 482 36 93, www. stoho, tel. (+380) 800 300 0 50, www.otpbank.com. gdip.com.ua. ua/enb. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Raiffeisen Bank Aval C-4, Khreschatyk 16, MMaidan Nezalezhnosti, tel. (+380) 44 279 08 71, [email protected], Lawyers www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gvozdiy & Oberkovych C-5, Instytutska 19B, office Lunch time 13:00 - 14:00. 29, MKhreschatyk, tel. (+380) 44 581 12 20/(+380) 44 581 12 21, fax (+380) 44 581 12 22, info@golaw. M SEB Bank A-5, H-3, Chervonoarmiis’ka 10, L’va Tol- ua, www.golaw.ua. stoho, tel. (+380) 44 238 67 67, www.seb.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz C-5, Instytutska 19B, 5th floor, MKhreshatyk, tel. (+380) 44 503 35 46, fax €1 = 10.71Hr; US$1 = 7.98Hr; £1 = 12.62Hr (+380) 44 503 35 49, www.cms-rrh.com. (28 February 2012 official rates)

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Kyiv In Your Pocket kyiv.inyourpocket.com Restaurants Adult entertainment 49

Gentlemen’s Clubs Zolotoy Nosorog A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 3rd M Marilyn A-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 32A, ML’va Tolstoho, floor, L’va Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 496 37 47, www. tel. (+380) 44 240 76 68. Show bar Marilyn is situated in nosorog.com.ua. A part of Nosorog strip clubs chain Zolo- the basement of the beerhouse Talgen. It offers a non-stop toy occupied the 3rd floor of the most luxurious Arena City programme of erotic shows featuring beautiful dancers. entertainment centre. The club can accommodate 65 guests Private shows and VIP-rooms are also available. Admission and has 7 private rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 40Hr. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. PAULGS 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women. Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar H-4, Chervonoarmiys’ka 111/113, MPalats Ukraina, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00, Massage www.nosorog.com.ua. A cosy little place that hosts as many Chocolate tel. (+380) 96 545 34 44/(+380) 63 as 40 people. There are 8 private tables, Indian décor with 233 00 67/(+380) 44 233 00 67, www.chocolate- plastered illustrations from Kamasutra, a bar and European studio.com.ua. Beautiful professional girls giving erotic cuisine. Beer costs 20-25Hr. Main dishes are around 60Hr. Thai and the parlours own brand of chocolate massage. Also at Artema 37/41, tel. (+380) 44 529 20 00.QOpen QOpen 24 hrs. 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 100Hr for men, 150Hr for women. Cleo Relax Studio tel. (+380) 44 362 82 06/(+380) Paradise Cabaret A-5, T.Shevchenka bul’v./ 98 840 95 48. Cleo Studio offers all kinds of massages, Pushkins’ka 5-7/29, MTeatral’na, tel. (+380) 44 537 including aroma spa, sport, Thai and Japanese massages. 45 32, www.paradise-cabaret.com.ua. Located on the QOpen 24 hrs. fifth floor of Premier Palace Hotel this club keeps the great- est traditions of Parisian cabaret. Luxurious red velvet with Euphoria tel. (+380) 98 042 42 09. Proffesionals in erot- gold and crystal interior will surely make you fill yourself in ic massage will make your stay full of pleasure. The salon’s Paradise, so you should just relax and enjoy women’s beauty. policy implies massage without intimacy. QOpen 24hrs. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for women. PALS Lily MOlimpiys’ka, tel. (+380) 67 525 16 99. The pretty girls - professionals in erotic massage will meet you in this Solid Gold B-5, Chervonoarmiys’ka 5, 2nd floor, ML’va salon and make you stay full of pleasure. QOpen 24hrs. Tolstoho, tel. (+380) 44 494 09 14, www.solidgold. ua. Recently opened gentleman club offers it’s visitors cosy, Roksolana tel. (+380) 44 227 95 10/(+380) 67 833 stylish interior and amazing shows. Except for the main hall, 33 66/(+380) 63 144 11 10, www.roksolana-massage. a club offers guests a VIP lounge and Chill out zone. Solid com.ua. Proffesionals in erotic massage will make your stay Gold is located on the 2nd floor of Arena Entertainment Com- full of pleasure. QOpen 24hrs. plex. Reserve a table in advance, especially on weekends. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Admission: 150Hr for men, 200Hr for women. PALS

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Akademika Bohomol’tsia Hertsena F-1 Lyvars’ka L-4 Panasa Myrnoho I-3, J-4 Stadionnyi prov. F/G-3 B/C-6, I-3 Hlazunova I-5 M. Pryimachenko bul’v. Panfilovtsiv J-4 Stara Poliana G-1 Akademika Filatova I-5 Hlibova G-2 I-4/5, J-4 Panfilovtsiv prov. J-4 Starokyivs’ka F-2 Akademika Karpyns’koho E-4 Hlybochyts’ka B/C-1, G/H-1 Maiborody F-1 Parkova doroha D-5/6, I-2, J-2/3 Staronavodnyts’ka I/J-4 Akademika Yanhelia E-2 Hlybochyts’kyi proizd G-1 Maidan Nezalezhnosti C-4, I-2 Patrisa Lumumby I-4/5 Starovokzal’na G-2/3 Aleia Heroiv Krut J-3 Hoholivs’ka A-1/2, G-2 Makarivs’ka L-5/6 Pavla Pestelia G-2/3 Strilets’ka B-3, H-2 Aliabieva M-5 Honcharna C-2, H-1/2 Maksyma Kryvonosa F-4 Pavlivs’ka G-2 Students’ka G-1 Andriia Holovka F-4/5 Horodnia G-4 Mala Zhytomyrs’ka Pecheniz’ka G-1 Surykova F-3 Andriivs’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Hospital’na A-6, I-3 C-3/4, H-2 Pechers’ka pl. I-4 Suvorova J-3 Andriivs’kyi uzviz C/D-2, H-1 Hospital’nyi prov. A-6, I-3 Malopidval’na B-3/4, H-2 Pechers’kyi uzviz I-3 Symona Petliury G-3 Anri Barbiusa H-4, I-4/5 Hryhoriia Andriuschenka F/G-2 Marka Vovchka L-3 Peremohy pl. G-2 Tarasa Shevchenka bul’v Antonova E/F-4 Huchnyi prov. F-4 Marshala Malynovs’koho Peremohy prosp. E/G-2 A-3/5, G-2, H-3 Anyschenka J-3 Husovs’koho I-3/4 M-2, M/N-3, O-2 Perspektyvna I-4 Tarasivs’ka H-3 Arkhitektors’ka F-5 Illi Erenburha G/H-3 Marshala Rybalka F/G-2 Pervomais’koho B-6, I-3 Tatars’ka G-1 Arsenal’na I-4 Illins’ka D-2, H/I-1 Marshala Tymoshenka Petra Dehtiarenka L-1/3 Tel’mana H-4 Arsenal’na pl. J-3 Instytuts’ka C-4/6, I-2/3 M-2, N-1/2 Petra Kryvonosa pl. G-3 Ter’okhina L-5 Artema A-1, B-1/2, G-1, G/H-2 Isaakiana F-2 Martyrosiana E-3/4 Petra Nischyns’koho F-3 Tereschenkivs’ka A-4, H-3 Bahhovutivs’ka F/G-1, L-6 Iskrivs’ka E-3 Mate Zalky O-3/4 Petrivs’ka B-1, H-1 Tolstoho L’va pl. 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N-4 Bohatyrs’ka M-1/4, N-4 Kavkaz’ka F-3/4 Mitskevycha E-3 Pol’ova E-2/3 Turgenevs’ka A-1 Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho Kerchens’ka E-4 Moldavs’ka G-1 Pol’ovyi prov. E-2 Turivs’ka N/O-6 A-2/4, B-4, G/H-2, H-3 Khoryva D-1, H-1 Molodohvardiis’ka E-4 Poliarna L/M-1 Tvers’ka I-4, H-5 Bohdanivs’ka F-3 Khreschatyk Montazhnykiv G/H-5 Politekhnichna E/F-2 Tvers’kyi tupyk I-4 Bohuslavs’kyi uzviz M-6 B-4/5, C-4, H-3, H/I-2 Moskovs’ka J-3 Politekhnichnyi prov. F-2 Tykha I-5 Borschahivs’ka E/F-2 Khvoiky M-5 Moskovs’ka pl. H-5 Polovets’ka G-1 Tymiriazievs’ka J-5 Borychiv Tik D-2/3, H/I-1 Kikvidze J-5 Moskovs’kyi prosp. L/O-4 Poltavs’ka G-2 Tymofiia Shamryla E-1 Borychiv uzviz D-3, I-1 Kirovohrads’ka G/H-5 Murashka F/G-1 Polzunova G-3 Umans’ka E/F-3 Botkina F-2 Kirovohrads’kyi prov. H-5 Muzeinyi prov. C-4/5, I-2 Poshtova pl. D-3, I-1 Universytets’ka F-4/5, G-5 Bozhenka H-4/5 Klinichna G-5 Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho Povitroflots’kyi prosp. Uryts’koho F/G-3 Bozhkiv Yar G-5 Klovs’kyi uzviz C-6, I/J-3 C-4/6, D-6, I-2, I/J-3 F-2/4, E-4/5 Ushyns’koho E-3/4 Brats’ka D-2/3, H/I-1 Kmytiv Yar G-1 Mykhaila Myshyna E-4 Predslavyns’ka H-4, I-5 Vadyma Het’mana E-2/3 Brest-Lytovs’kyi prov. F-2 Komandarma Kamenieva J-4 Mykhaila Zadniprovs’koho I-4 Profinternu H-5 Vandy Vasylevs’koi F-2 Brians’ka F-4 Konduktors’ka G-4 Mykhailivs’ka pl. C-3, H-2 Prorizna B-4, H-2 Vasylia Yana H-3 Brovars’kyi prosp. K-2/3 Kontraktova pl. D-2, H-1 Mykhailivs’kyi prov. Protasiv Yar G/H-4 Velyka Zhytomyrs’ka Buslivs’ka J-5 Kopernyka F/G-1, F-2 B-3/4, C-3, H-2 Providnyts’ka G-3/4 B-2, C-3, H-2 Chapaieva A-3, H-2 Kopylivs’ka L-5 Mykoly Amosova G/H-4 Pryozerna O-4 Verbova L-3/4, M-4/5, N-5 Chekhovs’kyi prov. A-2, G/H-2 Korabel’na M-5 Mykoly Hrinchenka H-4/5 Pryrichna O-1 Verkhn’okliuchova E-3 Chervonoarmiis’ka H-3/5, I-5 Korolenkivs’ka H-3/4 Mykoly Kravchenka Pryvitna G-4 Verkhnia J-4 Chervonozorianyi prosp. Kosmonavtiv pl. 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G-3 Dehtiarna B/C-2, H-1/2 Kozhumiats’ka C-1/2, H-1 Naberezhno-Luhova N/O-6 Riznyts’ka I/J-3 Volhohrads’ka G-4 Delehats’kyi prov. L-6 Koziatyns’ka J-4 Naberezhno-Pechers’ka K-4/5 Rybal’s’ka I/J-3 Volodymyro-Lybids’ka H-4 Desiatynna C-3, H-2 Krasnodons’ka G-3/4 Naddniprians’ke shose K-4/5 Rybna F-5 Volodymyrs’ka Dmytrivs’ka G-2, L-5 Kropyvnyts’koho B-5, I-3 Nahirna L/M-6 Sadova C-5, I-2 A-4, B-3/4, C-3, H-2/3 Dniprovs’kyi uzviz J-3 Kruhlouniversytets’ka B-5, I-3 Nahirnyi prov. L-6 Sahaidachnoho D-2/3, H/I-1 Volodymyrs’kyi Proizd C-3, H-2 Dobrosusids’ka F/G-5 Krutohirna F/G-5 Nakhimova M-5/6 Saksahans’koho G-2, G/H-3 Volodymyrs’kyi uzviz Dobrynyns’ka L/M-3 Kudriashova G-3/4 Narodna G-4/5, F-5 Sant’iaho-de-Chili pl. O-2 C-4, D-3/4, I-2 Dokuchaievs’ka G-4 Kudriavs’kyi uzviz B-1, G-1/2 Narodnoho Opolchennia E-4/5 Saperne Pole I-4/5 Volos’ka D-1/2, H/I-1, O-6 Donets’ka E-4 Kupians’ka G-5 Narodnyi prov. G-4 Schekavyts’ka D-1, H-1 Volyns’ka E-3/4 Dorohozhyts’ka E-1 Kurenivs’ka L-4, M-3/4 Nechuia-Levyts’koho G-5 Schorsa H/I-4 Volz’ka H-5 Dovnar-Zapol’s’koho F-1/2 Kurs’ka F-3 Nemyrovycha-Danchenka I-4 Schorsa prov. I-4 Vorovs’koho A/B-2, G/H-2 Dovzhenka E-1/2 Kutuzova I/J-4 Nesterova E-1/2 Semena Skliarenka L-4 Vozdvyzhens’ka C-1/2, H-1 Druzhby Narodiv bul’v. Kyrylo-Mefodiivs’ka F-2 Nimans’ka I/J-5 Semenivs’ka G-4/5 Vrubelivs’kyi uzviz L-6 H/J-5, J/K-4 L’va Tolstoho A-4/5, G/H-3 Novokostiantynivs’ka M-5/6 Serhiia Strutyns’koho J-4/5 Vvedens’ka H-1 Druzhby Narodiv pl. N-3 L’vivs’ka pl. B-2, H-2 Novopechers’kyi prov. I-4, H/I-4 Sevastopol’s’ka pl. E-4 Vyborz’ka E-2 Druzhnia G-3/4 Laboratorna H-4 Novovokzal’na G-4 Sholudenka F-2 Yakira F-1 Dubens’ka J-5 Laboratornyi prov. H/I-4 Nyzhn’oyurkivs’ka G/H-1 Shota Rustaveli A-5, H-3 Yams’ka H-4 Dymytrova H-4 Laiosha Havro N-3, O-3/4 Nyzhn’okliuchova E-3 Shovkovychna B/C-5, I-2/3 Yanky Kupaly E-4 Dzerzhyns’koho pl. I-5 Lavrs’kyi prov. J-3 Nyzhnii Val C/D-1, H-1 Shuliavs’ka F-2 Yaroslava Halana E-3 Elektrykiv N/O-5 Lebedieva-Kumacha E-3 Obolons’ka H-1, O-6 Shyshkins’kyi prov. L/M-6 Yaroslaviv Val B-2/3, H-2 Elektrykiv prov. N-6, O-5 Leiptsyz’ka J-3/4 Obolons’ka naberezhna O-1/3 Sichnevyi prov. J-3 Yaroslavs’ka D-1, H-1 Emsta E-5 Lesi Ukrainky bul’v. Obolons’kyi prosp. N-1/5 Simii Khokhlovykh E/F-1 Yerevans’ka E/F-3 Esplanadna A-5, H-3 A-6, I-3/4, J-4 Observatorna A/B-2, G/H-2 Skovorody D-2, H/I-1 Yevropeis’ka pl. C-4, I-2 Ezhena Potie E-1 Lesi Ukrainky pl. I-4 Ol’hyns’ka C-5, I-2 Slavy pl. J-3 Yuliusa Fuchyka F-3 Fastivs’ka E-4 Lieskova I-4 Olehivs’ka C-1, H-1 Smilians’ka E-4 Yurkivs’ka H-1, N/O-6 Frometivs’ kyi uzviz H-5 Liniina G/H-4 Olenivs’ka N-6 Smolens’ka E-2 Zaliznychna E-2/3 Frometivs’ka H-5 Litnia I-4 Oleny Telihy E-1, L-4/5 Smyrnova-Lastochkina Zaliznychne shose I-5 Frunze D-1, H-1, L-4/5, M/N-6 Liuterans’ka B-4/5, I-2/3 O. Honchara A-2, B-3, G/H-2 B-2, C-1, H-1/2 Zavods’ka M/N-6 Gor’koho H-3/5, I-5 Lokomotyvna G-3/4 Oranzhereina E-1 Sofiis’ka pl. B/C-3, H-2 Zelenohirs’ka E/F-4 Haidara G-3 Lubens’ka I-5 Ostapa Vyshni I-5 Sofiivs’ka B-3, C-3/4, H-2 Zemlians’kyi prov. J-4 Haisyns’ka F/G-4 Luhova L/M-2 Ostrovs’koho F/G-3 Soliana G-1 Zhylians’ka G-2/3, H-3 Havans’kyi prov. M-5 Lukashevycha F/G-3 Ostrovs’koho prov. F-3 Solomians’ka F/G-4 Zhytn’otorz’ka pl. C-1, H-1 Heroiv Dnipra M-1 Lukianivs’ka C-1, G/H-1 Osvity F-4 Solomians’ka pl. F-3 Zlatopil’s’ka F-4 Heroiv Stalinhrada prosp. Lukianivs’ka pl. G-1 Otto Shmidta G-1 Sotsialistychna E/F-4 Zoi Haidai M-1 O-1/3 Lybids’ka G-3 Ovruts’ka L-6 Spas’ka D-2, H/I-1 Zolotoustivs’ka G-2 Heroiv Velykoi Vitchyznianoi Lyps’ka C-6, I-3 Ozerna F-4 Sportyvna pl. A-5/6, H-3 Zoolohichna E-2, F-1 Viiny pl. J-4 Lysenka A/B-3, H-2 Pan’kivs’ka G/H-3 Stadionna F/G-3 Zvirynets’ka J-5

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He rts LY en P a . M Yar a Podіl’s’ka FKZ i I b or od y M.Murashka Kmytiv Index 55

Alberti Angelo 46 Dark Side 22 Kyiv 12 Pizzeria Napulè 26 Tokyo City 28 Al Faro 26 Da Vinci Fish Club 26 Kyiv Fortress Museum 36 Planeta Sushi 28 Tourist 18 American Library 12 Déjà vu 22 Kyiv Islamic Social Cultural Podil Tennis Courts 40 Tsarske Selo 21 Antwerpen 24 D*Lux Entertainment 32 Centre 12 Podol Plaza 14 Ukraina 12 Accounting Solutions 48 D'Lux Kiev Hostel 19 Kyivo-Pechers’ka Lavra 39 Polish Institute 12 Ukraine 18 Aeroflot 42 Dnipro 16 Kyiv (Zhulyany) Airport 42 Porta Pia 27 Ukraine-Japan Centre 12 AeroSvit 42 Docker's ABC 32 Kyivs'ka Rus 12 Porter Pub 31 Ukraine International Airlines Air Baltic 42 Daniel 45 KyivStar GSM 41 Prego Café 27 42 Alitalia - Compagnia Aeree Deloitte & Touche 48 Laboratory Dr. Roedger 46 Premier Palace 14 Ukraine Palace 9 Italiana 42 Dessange 46 La Cantina 27 President Hotel 16 Ukrainian State Museum of American Chamber of DHL 41 Lapin House 45 PricewaterhouseCoopers 48 Books and Printing 39 Commerce in Ukraine 48 Diva Health & Beauty Centre Ledovyi Stadion 40 Prime Excursion Bureau 33, Ultramarin 40 American Medical Centre 46 46 Leto 23 36 UniCredit Bank 48 Andrew's Descent 33 Dobrobut 46 Life 41 Prisma 46 Universal Flights Sales Antique Centre 45 Domus 16 Lobby Lounge 31 Protasiv Yar 40 Agency 42 Antiques Salon 45 Dorothy’s Pub 30 London 31 Radisson BLU 14 UnMomento 46 Antoshka 45 Down Town 20 Lucky Pub 31 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 48 UPS 41 Apartments Rent Kiev 19 Dragee Café 29 Lufthansa 42 Really Central 20 Uruk 28 Apple Consulting 48 Dream Hostel 20 Lun Van 22 Repriza 29 VaBene 28 Apteka #24 46 Dynamo Stadium 33 Lybid 16 Richelieu 24 Varenichnaya #1 21 Aquarium Fitness Centre 40 Echo Eastern Europe 47 Machaon 40 Riviera on Podol 14 Vault 13 Computer Club 41 Arena Entertainment 32 Éclair, confectionary Magic Bus Kyiv 20 RoomMe - web portal of Vozdvyzhens'kyi Boutique Arizona BBQ 22 restaurant 29 Mai-Tai Lounge 24 short-term apartment rent 19 Hotel 14 Art Arsenal 9 English language centre 47 maLLina café 23 Rosie O’Grady’s 31 Water Information Centre 38 Art Club 44 32 Ernst & Young 48 Mana 27 Route 66 32 Why not? 20 A small-scale Kyiv 36 Europcar 43 Marilyn 49 Royal Hotel and Beauty Club Wolkonsky 29 Atelier 1 45 European Business Marmaris 28 De Paris 16 Xlib Club 32 Atelier Karas 9 Association 48 Maysternya 9 Rus 17 Ya Gallery 9 Austrian Airlines 42 Exibition of Microminiatures MedLife Elite 46 Salyut (Salute) 18 Yunist 40 Autograph 15 by M.Syadrystyi 39 MedLife Lux 46 San Tori 28 Zeh Gallery 9 Avanto 46 Falbi 46 Megamarket 45 Scromnoye Obayaniye Zhovten 12 Avis 43 Favourite V.I.P. Club 40 Memorial Museum of Bourgeoisie 23 Zvezdnyi Nosorog strip-club Azhur 32 Federal Express 41 Zankovets'ka 36 SEB Bank 48 (Star Rhinoceros) 49 Babuin Bookshop- Fellini 24 Metrograd 45 Senator Apartments City Coffeehouse 29 Folk Architecture and Life Miatniy Nosorog Strip bar 49 Center 17 Bakkara Art-hotel 15 Museum 36, 37 Milennium 32 Senator Apartments Baraban (Drum) 30 Foodtourist 27 Mimino 22 Executive Court 17 Bar on 8 30 Freedom 22 Mir 19 Shapito 26 Barsuk 27 Free Tours 33 MiReDo 23 Sherborne Guest House 18 BaзAAR Braserie 24 French Cultural Centre 12 Mitla 21 Shnitzel 23 BEEF Meat & Wine 24 Gallery 36 9 Monarch International Shokoladnitsa 29 Belle Epoque 45 Gapchinska 9 Language Academy 47 Shynok 21 Belvedere 22 GastroRock 27 Moskva 27 Silver Bells 9 Bil'shovyk 40, 45 Gelos 45 MTS 41 Sixt 43 Blind Age sport music pub 30 General Direction of Multiplex 12 SkyArtCafé 29 Blinoff 21 Attendance to Foreign Museum of Chernobyl 36 Slavutych 18 Bocconcino 26 Representatives 48 Museum of Historical Sorry Babushka 32 Bochka (Keg) 30 Gin-no-Taki 28 Valuables 39 Spagetti Pizzeria 26 Boryspil State International Globus 45 Museum of Modern Ukrainian SPA Naturel 46 Airport 42 Goethe Institute 12 Fine Arts Collection 37 St. Andrew's Church 34 Bosm Pharm 46 Golden Gate 33 Museum of Russian Art 37 State Museum of Theatre, British Airways 42 Golden Gate Irish Pub 30 Museum of the Great Music and Cinema Arts of British Council 12 Goodman Steak House 22 Patriotic War 37 Ukraine 39 British Ukrainian Chamber of Good Wine Bar 30 Mysterious Kyiv 33, 36 State Museum of Ukrainian Commerce 48 Gorilla 26 Mystetskiy Kurin' 9 Decorative Art 39 Brucie Collections 9 Grata Apartment Service 19 National Art Museum 37 Stefanos Fine Food Factory Buddha-bar 24 Greguar Apartments 17 National History Museum 38 28 Budget 43 Gvozdiy & Oberkovych 48 National Museum of St. Michael's Golden-Domed Bulgakov Museum 36 Hankookkwan 23 Chernobyl 38 Cathedral 35 Butterfly Bilshovyk 12 Hertz Rent a Car 43 National Opera of Ukraine 10 St. Sophia's Cathedral 35 Butterfly Deluxe 12 Himalaya 24 National Philharmonic 9 Sullivan Room 32 Butterfly Petrivka 12 Holosiivs'kyi 18 Natsional'nyi 16 Sunduk 31 Byblos 32 House of Coffee "Passage" Naturlih Pub 31 Swiss Dry Cleaner Cinderella Café de Paris 24 29 New Logic 36 46 Carribean Club 32 House With Chimeras 34 Nirvana 24 Tarantino 26 Celentano 26 Hyatt Regency Kyiv 13 Novamova 47 Tarelka 23 Central Bus Station 42 ibis Kiev Shevchenko O’Brien’s 31 Ten-Po 28 Central/Southern Train Boulevard 16 Odesa Kino 12 T.G.I. Friday's 22 Station 43 Impressa 16 Olga 19 The British International Central Post Office 41 Independence Square 34 Olimpiyskiy Sport & Beer 31 School 47 Centre of the ophtalmology Indigo 30 Oliva 27 The National and aestetic medicine AILAS Intercontinental 13 Olymp 40 Museum "Memorial in 47 Italian Culture Institute 12 Open Kiev 33 Commemoration of Famines' Chameleon 40 Ivan Honchar's Museum, Opera 14 Victims in Ukraine" 38 Che Guevara Pub 30 Ukrainian Centre of Folk Art Osteria Pantagruel 27 The One Street Museum 38 Chief Department of Foreign 36 OTP Bank 48 The Pharmacy Museum 38 Economic Relations and Jumbo 40 Parogovaya Nikolay 29 The Spiritual Treasures of Investments 48 Karavan 40 Parter 8 Ukraine 38 Chillout Hostel Kiev 19 Khreschatik 18 Pechersk School Tike 28 China White 22 Khreschatyk Guest House 17 International 47 TIU Khreschatyk 20 Citronelle 24 Kiev Apartments 19 PinchukArtCentre 38 TNT 41 City Centre 19 Kiev Apartment Service 19 City Park Hotel 15 Kiev for You 19 Club Olympus 40 Kinari Oriental SPA 47 CMD 46 Kazka Nova 45 Help! CMS Reich-Rohrwig Hainz 48 Khreschatyk 34 Coffee House 29 Kinopalats 12 Ambulance service 103 Coffee Time 29 KLM 42 Collection 9 Kodokan 40 Doctor’s phone advice 1683 Collège Français Anne de Koza Dereza 21 Information about hospitalised patients 1613 Kiev 47 Kozats'kiy 18 Pharmacy information service 1567 Cosmopolite 15 KPMG 48 Crepe de Chine 24 Krendel 27 Vet ambulance service 243 72 41 Crystal Hall 32 Kult RA 21 kyiv.inyourpocket.com Spring 2012