l ~ l i Lt 'I ll lit t l~ Extension Circular 282 June, 1942

SEWING EQUIPMENT by Alice Sundquist Extension Specialist in Clothing and Textiles

Women and girls can help save our nation's raw materials, labor and machinery for production of war goods through construction and conservation of clothing.

"The workman is only as efficient as his tools." Good sewing equipment is an inspiration for good work. Sewing equipment should be kept in one place. This saves time and avoids irritating delays which interfere with the progress of the work. The storage space for sewing equipment may be a box, suitcase, drawer, chest of drawers, cupboard, or a room, de­ pending upon the size of the home and the amount of sewing which is to be done. Sewing Machine The sewing machine is the largest and most expensive piece of equipment. It pays to keep it clean, oiled, and in good running condition. The manual or instruction book that comes with the machine tells how to take care of the machine and how to use and adjust it. Time and labor can be saved in sewing if one will spend the time to learn how to use the machine and the machine attachments and then use them at every opportunity. Machine attachments give a professional finish which it is almost impossible to achieve otherwise. The proper threading of the machine, winding the bob­ bin, regulation of tension and stitch are very important steps to be learned by the beginner. Some of this information is given in this leaflet while other specific suggestions pertaining to different makes ( of machines is found in the sewing machine manual or instruction book. Points to remember are: 1. The better the sewing machine the better the work. 2. Give the machine good care, oil it often, and close it when not in use. Keep it clean. 3. Use light oil-heavy oil gums up the machine. 4. Use attachments. They will save you time and energy. 5. Lubricant grease should be used only on electric machine motors. 6. Be sure the needle is set properly and fastened securely. 7. Adjust tension and stitch size, but don't tinker with the mechanism. 8. Pull plug-not cord-when the plug is to be extracted from the electric machine.

Cutting and Sewing Table A firm flat cutting and working surface at the proper height to prevent stooping is important. The largest table in the home or a table supplemented by a bridge table will oftentimes sen·e temporarily for cutting. If a good deal of sewing is planned, a con­ venient cutting board is very valuable. It can be made of composi­ tion and so designed that it can be conveniently stored when not in use. Shears, tracing wheel or pins will not mar it. If the working surface is very smooth and slippery, stretch an old sheet or cover it with an oil cloth cover, wrong side up. Fabrics will have a tend­ ency to adhere to this surface and remain in place when being cut. During sewing it is important to be able to sit and work at a table. An extra sewing table of about bridge table size is a great convenience when placed at the left of the sewing machine. Better workmanship results if the work is always kept on a table. Never work trying to join pieces of material and other similar sewing processes by having the work on your lap. A cabinet of sewing equipment on the right side easily accessible from a seating position at the machine will also aid in working.

2 Cutting Tools The best shears and scissors you can afford to buy will be your best investment. Shears as in C, D and E have a bow handle in which two or more fingers may be in­ serted, thus providing greater leverage and making it possible to cut evenly. Shears are heavy because they are intended for cutting materials. Shears suitable for gen­ eral purposes would be 7 or 8 inches long, the size measuring the full length of the blades. These shears may have either straight or bent handles whichever best fits the hand and is easier to use. Dress­ makers' shears are generally about 9 or 10 inches in size with handles bent so that Fig. 1- Cutting tools the back edge of the lower blade lies flat A and B, Scissors; C and D, Shears; E, Pinking along the cutting surface when cutting a shears. garment. This prevents lifting the fabric from the table. Scissors as in A and B have ring handles and, therefore, only the thumb and one finger can be used. They are lighter than shears and are convenient for snipping threads, ripping, and making short cuts in fabrics such as button holes and notches. A pair of scissors 5 or 6 inches in length is most convenient for general use. One blade should have a sharp point. The other may be rounded or pointed. Pinking shears (illustration E) are used for trimming seams and for cutting. They are very carefully adjusted and should not be subjected to pressure. Dainty embroidery scissors should be 3 to 3.0 inches long. Shears and scissors should be kept clean, as dust and dirt dulls them rapidly. Apply a drop of oil frequently at the joint to keep them running freely. Avoid cutting anything with scissors or shears than the work they were purchased to do. For this reason keep another pair of inexpensive scissors for general household use. When buying scissors consider the following: 1. Steel of high carbon content, properly hardened and tempered, is necessary if they are to hold an edge. If nickel-plating shows any tiny pits or scratches, these spots may rust out quickly. 3 2. Blades should be put together with a screw instead of a rivet. This allows for the shears or scissors to be taken apart when readjusted. If a rivet is used, it indicates poor quality throughout and the shears are almost sure to get out of adjustment quickly. 3. The cutting edge of the blade should be at a slight angle to the inside of the blade and not at right angles to it. The cutting edges of the blades should be the same thickness from heel to point and not more than 1/32 of an inch thick. In very cheap shears the edge is sometimes nearly 1/16 of an inch through. Cut small swatches of material the full length of the blade from the heel to the points closing the blades completely. Then pull them

Fig. 2-Cutting edge (A) back wit~out opening. If a thread of the is at a slight angle tc inside of blade. material is caught, that indicates the cutting edge is not perfect. When cutting out garments, spread out the material and pat­ tern on a flat surface and be sure there is plenty of working room. Working in cramped positions gi,-es poor results. Using long, eyen cuts, rather than short choppy ones; will help to insure a straight even edg.o::::. Needles. eedles ·of hand ground steel that have a smooth finished eye which prevents the thread from fraying, and a sharp smooth point which does not catch in the fabric giYe best results. se a coarse needle for a coarse fabric-a fine needle for a fine fabric. Milliners' needles being long and slender are suitable for basting; o. 7 needles are suitable for general sewing; and, -o. 10 needles for fine sewing. There is a correct needle for every sewing need. A descrip­ tion of these needles is giYen as follows: 1. Sharps ha\·e small rounded eyes and are medium length. They are used for all general sewing. Extra heavy sharps are known as carpet needles and are u ed for sewing very heavy materials and for repairing carpets. Sharps with gold-plated eyes are preferred by some as the eye is easier to see and therefore easier to thread. How­ ever, the gold plating does not permit the needle to pass through the material as easily as do the plain eye needles. 2. Betweens are shorter than sharps but have the same size eye and wire diameter. They are best for making short fine stitches in fine handiwork and tailoring. 3. Milliners needles have the same size eye and wire diameters as sharps but are much longer. Their length enables a worker to make

4 long stitches very quickly. They are good for basting as well as for use in millinery construction. 4. Crewel needles are commonly called embroidery needles. They have long eyes to hold many strands of thread or fine yarn. These needles can be used for fine darning. 5. Darning needles are longer than crewel needles but have the same size eye and wire diameter. The extra length permits the use of long, weaving motions used in darning . Yarn darners are extra coarse heavy darning needles and are used for mending knitted garments and blankets. 6. Self-threading needles are used by persons who have difficulty in see­ ing the needle eye. They are called calyx-eyed needles because of the slit in the top of the eye which springs apart under pressure and per­ mits the sewing thread to slip through into the needle eye. 7. Chenille needles are short, heavy, embroidery needles for use with heavy yarn, especially chenille yarn. The eye is long and wide to carry the yarn easily. • 8. Tapestry needles are like chenille needles, but have blunt points. T h ese are used for needlepoint and other types of needlework on scrim or net base. 9. Quilting needles are short with small oval eyes similar to betweens (See No. 2). With these needles it is easy to make fine, dainty, quilting stitches. 10. Glovers needles are used to sew on fur and leather. They have a three-cornered point so the hole made in stitching does not tear out so easily or cut the skin. 11. Beading needles are extremely fine and long and are used for sewing and restringing beads. 12. Bodkins are very blunt with long, large eyes fo r threading ribbon, elastic, or tape through a hem. Needles may be sharpened, and rough or rusty places polished by pushing them through an emery bag. These are often shaped li ke strawberries. If a bag cannot be purchased, a small cushion filled with steel wool will serve the same purpose. If needles are allowed to remain in the emery bag they will rust. The black sul­ phurless paper in which the needles are Fig. 3-Small equipment packaged prevents them from rusting. Keep the package closed if the needles are to be kept new and shiny. 5 Pins and Pin Cushions Fine brass dressmaker pins, sizes 5 or 6, bought in the ;;,t_, 0 or 1 pound box will not rust, and they will not mark the fabric because of their long smooth tapering and sharp points. The most convenient method of using pins is to have a small pin cushion held at the wrist by an elastic. This leaves both hands free. Such a pincushion is con­ venient when fitting or cut­ ting garments. To make the pincushion cut a four-inch square of firmly woven wool

Fig. 4-Wrist pin cushion or velvet material. Fold the square diagonally and stitch, leaving a one-inch opening. Stuff with wool or hair and sew up the opening. Attach narrow elastic to the corners of the diagonal so as to fit the wrist when worn. Use pins generously for accurate work and to save time in bast­ ing. Never push a pin through to its head. Use the points only. Thread There is a thread for every sewing need. Therefore select thread according to use. Consider whether it will be used for: 1. Basting 2. Machine stitching 3. Hand sewing or buttonhole making. 4. Consider whether the fabric is a. wool b. cotton c. linen d. rayon 5. Consider whether the fabric is a. heavy or sheer b. firm or flimsy c. dull or lustrous 6. Your choice also depends on the results you want a. dainty or sturdy b. thread to be visible or hidden c. temporary seam or sewing to last Consult the guide to thread and needle sizes when in doubt about what thread to use. Thread should have the characteristics of evenness, smoothness, elasticity, and strength.

6 Following are directions and uses for some of the different kinds of thread : 1. Best quality six cord cotton thread is made of selected long staple cotton fibers. Six threads are twisted together to make a single thread. This is the most _commonly used cotton thread . .2. Mercerized cotton comes in many standard and seasonal colors and blends well with fabrics for top stitching. Buy colored thread that is color-fast to boiling. 3. Heavy duty mercerized thread comes in many fast shades and is used for draperies, slip covers, awnings, upholstery, quilting, and buttonholes. 4. Glazed cotton thread or quilting thread is made of three strands of of tested cotton and is used for hand quilting. The smooth shiny finish permits the thread to slip through several thicknesses of · material easily. The glazed finish is removed in laundering. 5. Cotton basting thread is usually • made of two strands of cotton twisted into one thread with a glazed finish which permits it to slip easily when basting and ripping. It is cheaper than the regular sewing cotton. 6. Linen finished thread is an extra strong cotton thread with a glazed finish used for buttons and carpet thread. 7. Silk and nylon are the strongest threads for stitching seams in silk, rayon, or woolen garments. 8. Silk buttonhole twist is made of more strands of silk than is silk thread and is highly twisted so as to withstand hard wear.

It is very important that the ~thread be the right color for the material on which it is to be used. Stitching with an off-color thread cheapens the garment. To select a suitable color, hold a strand of the thread next to the fabric in clear daylight or with the aid of a daylight lamp and choose the thread which is slightly darker than the fabric. Thread usually stitches lighter than it appears on the spool. Make or buy some convenient rack to keep the spools in order. Nails set wide Fig. s-A spool rack enough apart into a board so that the spools can be set in side by side is a simple sewing convenience easily made.

7 Thimble A thimble is worn on the middle finger to protect the finger and make it possible to sew quickly and easily. A brass thimble of light plate \vith a chromium-plated finish will leave no stain. Celluloid thimbles are more clumsy. Get a thimble that fits snugly with deep indentations so that the head of the needle will not slip out. These indentations should extend far enough down on the sides to prO\·ide for maximum use of the thimble. The thimble should ha,·e a smooth finish so it will not catch the threads in the fabric. Tape measure, ruler, yard stick, and careful measurement are needed for good results. A sateen tape measure is preferable. How­ e,·er, an oil cloth tape measure is more common. The tape measure should be stitched on both edges and numbered so that it can be read from either end. A six inch ruler with fractional inch h1arkings will serve many purposes and not be cumbersome. A transparent ruler makes it possible to see the grain of the material through the ruler. A yardstick which can be read from either end is needed for measuring fabric, marking long straight lines and as a skirt marker. Tracing Wheel and Tailors' Chalk A tracing wheel or tailors' chalk often replace tailors' tacks for speed in marking the mater­ ial before cutting. A ~racing wheel can mark through several layers of material, the guide lines that are necessary in put­

Fig. 6-Tracing wheel and chalk ting a garment together. A wheel with saw-tooth edge shows ·more visible impressions than one having needlepoint teeth. Use a trac­ ing pad under the wheel to take the marks of the teeth unless the table surface is made of composition. (Use layers of newspapers f6r a pad.) Test on a sample of cloth first, to be sure tracing wheel will not cut or leave permanent lines. There are two kinds of tailors' chalk-wax for marking wool and a chalky substance for marking silk and cotton. The waxed chalk will disapear when a medium warm iron is applied to the wool, the other will rub out. Always check on a sample of cloth to make sure the chalk will not leave a permanent mark 8 Dress Form For a person who does a great deal of her own sewing and has to fit her own clothes, a dress form may be a helpful piece of equip­ ment. Before securing a form or making one, consider the fol­ lowing: 1. Will it be used enough to pay for the cost of rp.aterials or the time and energy spent in making it? 2. Is there a place . to store it in a closet or cupboard? 3. Will it be on a stand the right height from the floor? 4. Will it have a cover to keep it free from dust when not in use? 5. Will it be covered with a material into which one can pin and fasten the garment? If you can't answer yes to all these questions, then don't get a dress form. Dress forms may be made. Paper tape ones can be made at home and plastic models may be made by commercial companies. One approved suggestion is to buy a bust form on an adjustable standard that measures one or two sizes smaller than yourself through the bust. Make a muslin foundation which fits you per­ fectly and mark on it with color bastings your own waistline, neck­ line, bustline, hipline, and armhole line. Open down center back. Pad the form until it conforms perfectly to your figure, constantly measuring and checking the size of neck, bust, waist, and hip. Sew the muslin foundation up the back. Adjust height. This dress form may be enlarged or made smaller as one's figure changes. The padded surface makes it possible to work easily and quickly on the form because of the cover into which one can easily insert pins. Proper Lighting Proper lighting will speed up sewing and protect the eyes from strain. An adjustable lighting fixture is convenient and almost a necessity if much work is done. If the machine is not equipped with an electric light, a small attachment may be purchased and used to good advantage. Light, both artificial and natural, should come from the left. ever sit facing the light. Mirror A full length mirror with the aid of a hand mirror or another larger mirror hung on a swinging door will help to give a good view of the sides and back. At a small cost a full length mirror can be placed on a closet door with a molding. 9 Other Equipment Pressing is an importan~ part of good sewing. For information, obtain the bulletin on pressing in the Clothing Care Series. Home pressing equipment includes the following: Press cloths and pan Electric iron Ironing board Sleeve board Sleeve cushion Velvet Press Board Keep tissue paper on hand to use under sheer or limp fabrics when cutting or stitching. This paper also is convenient for wrap­ ping up delicate work between sewing periods. French chalk or Fuller's Earth should be handy in case you get a spot of machine oil on the fabric. Cover the spot thoroughly at once with either of the two materials. Leave it on overnight. A small piece of bees wax is excellent for waxing thread for sewing on buttons. It is also convenient to use for keeping the iron surface clean and smooth.

10 A Guide to Thread and N eedle Sizes (Set up by Spool Cotton Company) Your sewing will be easier and the results more satisfactory when you use threads and needles that are right in size both for the purpose and for the fabric.

Machine Ma chine Hand FABRIC and PURPOSE Need les Stitches per In ch Thread Sizes Needles

8 Heavy weaves of coating, suiting, t icking, 3 _socking, tarpaulin, drilling, canvas. Wash 10 Coarsest 8 4 uniforms and bedding supplies for hospitals 12 and hotels.

16 Bed ticking, denim, owning materials, duck 4 10 20 suits. Sewing on buttons and making but­ Coarse 5 tonholes on children's underclothing and 12 24 men's wash clothing.

30 Slip covers and drapery fabrics, khaki, 5 madras, muslin. Sewing on buttons and Medium 36 making buttonholes on mediu m weight fab­ 12 6 rics. For colored fabrics use heavy duty Coarse 40 mercerized thread.

50 Percale, gingham, cotton prints, linen and 6 all general household use. For colored fab­ 60 Medium 14 7 rics, light weight woolens and silks use mer­ 70 cerized sewing thread.

80 8 Voiles, lawns, dimities and all lightweight Medium 16 cotton fabrics. •For colored fabrics use mer­ 90 9 cer"ized sewing ·thread. Fine 18

Orgondie, batiste, chiffon, georgette and sheer cotton and silk fabrics. Su itable for 100 10 making Jingerie and infants' clothes. For Fine 20 colored fabrics use mercerized sewing threDd.

11 Published and distributed in furtherance of the Act of May 8, 1914, by the State College of Washington, Extension Service, F. E . Balmer, Director, and U. S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

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