Agricultural Extension Service WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY Pullman, Washington

Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture

September 1959 E.M. 2023 "'" /v-:z.r • w:L//VI .J , ~,~ IS EASY AND FUN 4-H CLOTHING PLAN I Learn to Sew Series

ff'list E. M. 2023 Page 2

, , Jean and her pals Their leader they chose Are such happy young gals. One that everyone knows They're twelve and eleven and ten. For her love of the girls and her fun. Said Jean with a glow She's skillful at . "Let's learn to sew." Their clothing club's showing And the pigtail parade's on again. These h-H 1 ers have only begun.

Here are some of the things Jean and her pals learned in their L-H clothing club. Perhaps you'd like this too. Since you took first steps in Let's Sew, let's continue to - * Practice sewing by hand and machine. Learn new stitches. * Know and use good sewing tools and habits. * Choose fabrics and supplies for a Three-Piece-Go-Together to include - 1. Wrist pincushion 2. Peasant apron J. Barbecue or oven mitt * Help with landering and mending. Make a darn on a tear. * Practice care of your clothes. * Keep yourself neat and attractive. * Keep score by - • Writing down in your record book all you do in your clothing plan • Giving a demonstration at a club meeting • Judging your work and progress · Exhibiting what you made • Having a parade of your apron outfit fl

E. M. 2023 Page 3

Always sew with clean hands and nails. Work on a table, not in your lap. Choose a comfortable chair. Sit straight with your feet on the floor.

Sit where the light is good, without glare or shadow.

Keep all tools and fabrics together and bring them to each meeting. Fold your fabric to prevent wrinkles.

Pick up scraps and carefully put your work and tools in your sewing box. Pick up scraps Always use your on the correct finger.

Cut ends with . Biting thread often chips teeth.

Follow directions carefully. Ask for advice but do your own work. Remove bastings and press as you sew. Do the best you can. Shrink your fabrics unless the label tells you it has been done.

Always straighten your fabric by the thread before you it. Use matching thread for all stitching unless you want a contrast for .

Correct Incorrect Incorrect Do oil your own work

Success in sewing calls for right tools at right time. They can be your friends or your enemies. You'll want as many tools as you can have. See LET'S SEW, page 2. E. M. 2023 Page 4

I

Your sewing tools

A pincushion to fasten to your wrist saves time because the are always where you need them. This pincushion can be your number one assistant. Wrist pincushion

WOOL'S THE THING - If you choose a dark-colored fabric, the pins will show up better. If it is firmly woven, it will give longer wear and will be easier to handle. Wool flannel makes a good covering because pins and needles slip through it easily. Corduroy is cotton but also makes a good pincushion.

Plan to stuff your pincushion with raw, clean wool or , or with wool scraps cut into narrow strips. Pins slip through this stuffing more easily than through cotton or other filling. You also need enough 1/4-inch black-colored elastic to go around your wrist, and sewing thread to match the fabric.

HOW TO MAKE IT Straighten and cut a ~ / / piece of fabric 4~ inches square. .I .I Fold,/ ~ Fold diagonally with right side inside. Round .I .I I II corners very slightly. I / 4- / 2 / Baste and 1/4 inch from open edges, beginning about 1 inch above A. Stitch back Cutting guide to A, pivot needle, and stitch to B. You wili have a double row of stitching 1 J.nch from A. In the center of side EC, raise machine needle and . Pull-rhe fabric toward back until you have a l-inch opening. Finish stitching to c, pivot needle, and stitch back to fastea. Turn right side out through opening and stuff tightly. · Sew up opening with invisible overhand stitches described below.

A Fold c Stitch like this E. M. 2023 Page 5

MAKE OVERHA ND STITCHES Overhand stitch Conceal knot between folds to begin. Make your stitches from right to left. Finish with two or three stitches in same place. Slip needle through toward overhand stitches and clip thread end. Overhand stitches are small, straight stitches to hold two folded or finished edges together. FINISHING THE PINCUSHION Measure a length of elastic long enough to go around your wrist snugly. Add 1/2 inch for a seam. Join ends in a 1/4-inch seam with hand stitches. Open seam and place at center of fold of pincushion. at A and c. Stretch elastic wrong side out over top point and pin­ to hold in place . Use hemming stitches shown on next page between A and C on both sides of elastic so it will lie flat. Fasten stitches securely. Remove pins and Wrist pincushion let elastic r eturn to position in picture.

You 111 want to wear an apron when you help your mother with the housework, especially in the kitchen. It helps to keep your dresses clean.

The peasant apron shown is popular with 4-H 1ers. You wo n't need to buy a if you follow the cutting guide.

You can make an apron from 1 yard of fabric if you are about 4 feet 8 inches tall, and weigh about 80 pounds. Smaller girls take less material; larger girls, more. Small, all-over prints such as the 4-H clover percale, or gingham, are good fabrics . Feed sacks often make attractive aprons. Whatever fabric you use, be sure it is colorfast, will not shrink, is a firm, durable weave, as well as pretty.

Avoid a design that is printed "off " , a fabric that is pressed crooked, border prints, large designs or those with an up-and-down. If the looks like the r est of the fabric and has no loose threads you can use it for the finished edge without making side . See E.M. 1938 LET'S SEW, P. 11, Prepare Your Fabric for Cutting. E. M. 2023 Page 6 CUTTING ISN'T HARD Follow cutting guide shown. These Cutting Guide measurements are for a girl about the size of one described. If you are 6"X18"(?) Waistband larger or smaller, you will need to make Selvage some changes. Apron Skirt 20" X 30" Check length and fullness of skirt, size II I" and position of pocket, and width and 36" Pockets 5 X 62 length of both belt and ties.

It 1s a good idea to cut a paper apron and 8''X30" Tie tr,y it for size before you snip and tear or cut your fabric lengths. a" x 30" Tie MAKE THE SKIRT 36" Waste If you use entire width of the fabric, make a good finish if they are firm, have no loose threads, and look like rest of fabric. If not, cut, or snip and tear off the selvages. Then make a 1/4 inch on both sides. Machin~ stitch close to hem edge or use hemming-stitch shown. 'J'o make hemming-stitch, take your stitches from i·ight to left. Bring your needle through fold t.o hide knot. Close to this stitch pick up a thread of apron fabric. Again, put your needle through fold. Repeat.

Hemming-stitch Make small, even, slanting stitches 1/8 to 1/4 inch apart. Avoid pulling stitches tight or they will pucker fabric.

Fold apron in center and mark top with a short basting. See bottom picture next page. Unfold and mark center of each half in same way.

Crease a 1/2-inch turn toward wrong side at bottom of apron. Press and edge stitch 1/8 inch from fold from right side. Pin and baste second turn 2 or 3 inches. Use your gauge shown on page 12 of LET 1S SEW to make hem even. Put in hem, using hemming-stitch. Overhand ends of hem as you learned to do when you made your pincushion.

With a lengthened machine stitch (6 or 8 stitches to 1 inch), make two rows of stitching across I II , .. top edge. 8 2 Make first row 1/2 inch from edge and second I row 3/8 inch from first. Two rows of stitching ~4\lutvJJL ____ -L make gathers more even than one row. If you i\4 prefer, you may make gathers by hand. Use (Ttu\ ------1 small running stitches with a double thread. ~ ~ t Or use a gathering attachment on your machine. Make two rows of gathers Then you need only one row. E. M. 2023 Page 7

TIES Double ties shown in cutting guide are neater than hemmed ones and have no wrong side. If your fabric is too heavy for double ties, cut single ties 4 or 5 inches wide. Fo double ties fold lengthwise through center with right side of fabric turned to inside.

Fold Cut one end of both ties on diagonal. Pin, baste if necessa~ and stitch 1/2 inch from raw edges. Leave end you attach to waistband open. Remove basting. ____ ./ Cut away corners of tie ends to prevent bunching of {r_-- ~~e_s fabric at corners when ties are turned. Be careful Make the tie not to cut stitching. Press.

Turn ties right side out by putting a ruler into closed ends. Work tie over ruler until it reaches other end. Pull ties through and slip ruler out. Pull out corners with a coarse needle until smooth and pointed. Turn the tie Crease. exactly on line of stitching, baste if necessary, and press ties smoothly. If you are making single ties, baste a hem on both sides. Stitch one side. Fold corner of stitched side over to opposite side. Trim off to form a neat, pointed end. Hem this side of tie, catching both edges at point. Fasten hemmed loose edge with hemming stitch to close pouch that collects lint. You may make square ends if you like them better. Other lines of your apron are square. PUTTING PARTS TOGETHER Cheek your waistband for length. The 18 inches you cut may be longer than you need. It should begin and end about 2 inches back of the underarm seams of your 'dress. Allow an extra 1/2 inch at each end for seams. Crease on both sides and ends. Fold waistband through center lengthwise, divide into fourths and place a pin at each section along one side.

Place wrong side of gathered skirt Join apron, waistband, and ties against right side of waistband, Waistband matching pins on band with bastings on skirt.

I "'-'' Right Side E. M. 2023 Page 8

Pin apron on waistband Distribute and pin gathers evenly. Baste slightly above line of gathering, Waistband B as shown at A. Stitch on lower row of ------gatherings. -Fasten threads with lock or back stitch and remove bastings. Tie Press wrong side of waistband along stitch line. Center Fold -: C Fold Pin, baste and stitch waistband ends flat to gathered or pleated ties Wrong Side I I between B and C. Keep fold of tie at C side of band. Fasten threads. Bring waistband with attached ties to cover row of machine stitching along gathers. Pin, baste, and stitch. Fasten and clip thread ends.

Finish underside of waistband and ties between B and C with hemming-stitch. Machine stitching at ends of waist- band will show only on right side. Fo\d Another way to attach skirt and waist­ band is to stitch gathered ties to inside of waistband ends, using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Then, placing right side of apron against right side of waistband, adjust gathers, pin, baste, and stitch. Fasten waistband on wrong side with Right Side of hemming-stitch along row of machine Apron Skirt stitching. By this method, no stitch­ Fold down waistband ing shows on right side of waistband.

PATCH POCKETS You'll want a pocket on your apron, perhaps two. Pockets should be well-made and stitched at corners so they can't tear back. The size and shape of pockets are ~1portant. Pocket size depends on apron size. Its shape should follow lines of apron. A good example is a pocket and apron with straight or curved lines at bottom. MAKE A POCKET Cut pocket for this apron 5 inches wide and ~ inches long. Turn 2 inches of top of pocket to right side. Before basting along sides, turn back 1/2-inch seam allowance at A and edge-stitch 1/8 inch from fold. Pin and stitch along sides of hem 1/2 inch from edges as shown. Lock or back stitch at top and bottom folds. Clip corners to remove bulk, turn hem to wrong side of pocket to make square corners and fasten with hemming-stitch. Turn under seam allowance of lower sides and bottom. Clip away bulk nearly to corners at A and baste flat. Make a pocket E. M. 2023 Page 9

T~ pocket on apron and decide just where you'd like to have it. The usual place is from 4 to 6 inches from waistband and sides, depending on fullness. Pin, baste, and machine stitch pocket to apron. Pockets should be made stronger at the top so they won 1 t tear apron or come loose where · stitching is fastened. Follow one of the suggestions in~ or~· Tests show that a is stronger than b but that both a and b are stronger than c. Lock stitch or tie thread ends where stitching starts-and ends. Press apron carefully. Be sure to have an apron parade. Perhaps you will want to enter the costume selection contest at the county fair.

A BARBECUE OR OVEN MITT IS HANDY

When you cook in your yard or kitchen, a hot pad that looks like a mitten is handy to keep from burning your hand.

Make ~ Pattern. Place your hand on a piece of paper with your fingers slightly apart and your thumb outstretched as shown. Draw around your hand and wrist. Then use your ruler cmd make a second line 3/4 inch outside first. Be sure pattern is long enough to come up on your arm 2 or 3 inches above your wrist bone and wide enough for your hand to slip through easily. Keep these lines s traight or evenly rounded. Draw an arrow in a line between the outside wrist and where your thumb and finger meet as shown below. Choose Your Fabric. For part of mitt that . goes next to back of your hand, choose a pieee of your apron fabric or a solid color that goes with it. Part that goes against palm of hand needs two thicknesses of outing flannel, heavy denim, a piece of mattress pad or an old cotton blanket. You may also need a thin layer of cotton. You may prefer to buy a quilted fabric that goes with your apron for both sides of the mitt. The pieces should be large enough so your pattern will fit as shown. E. M. 2023 Page 10

If you are not using a quilted fabric, you may quilt your own. Mark fabric into squares, baste and stitch through all thicknesses. If the fabric is a print or is thin, put a layer of cotton between fabrics to make it heavy enough to protect your hand.

Cut Your Fabric Place pat tern on your fabric so arrow is on grain as shown. If there is a right side to your fabric be sure to cut it so palm and back pieces are cut in reverse - right sides out. You will have to watch this carefully if they are different fabrics. Remember also whether you are right or left handed.

Make Your Mitt With right sides of fabrics together, baste and stitch around mitt with 1/4 inch seam. Stitch again, on top of the stitching, about 1 inch on both sides of A {point where thumb and finger part join). Cut down at A to double row of stitching. Trim edges-evenly. Cut out small wedges on curves to row of stitching. Do not cut stitching.

Turn right side out and press. Make a hem or a single turn on quilted or heavy fabric to finish raw edge at wrist. Fasten with hemming, cross, or blanket stitches with washable cotton thread.

CROSS-STITCHING IS FUN - Stitches should cross in center, corners meeting. Work from right to left with lower edge of hem held toward you, right side up. Take stitches over entire basted hem. To begin, fasten thread a G E A D with small knot between fold of hem. --:;~~ For first method shown bring up needle to right side of A. Insert into bottom fold of hem at B, bring out at C, insert into top fold of b hem-at D, to complete first cross. Bring ~~ needle out at E to start second cross, insert into fold at C~ bring out at F, insert at A, Cross-stitch bring out at G, and start the-third cross.­ Stitches need-not show on wrong side if slipped through folds of hem. You may prefer to use second method. Make all the diagonal stitches in one direction first, and then cross them in opposite direction. E. M. 2023 Page 11 BLANKET-STITCHING IS EASY The blanket-stitch is easy to make. Change its appearance by taking stitches of different lengths and positions. Work from left to right with edge of hem held toward you, right side up. Each time you take a stitch, you sew into a loop of thread. Take stitches over entire basted hem.

Blanket-stitches

PRACTICE CARE OF YOUR CLOTHES

So far in your clothing plan you are advised to choose suitable fabrics for your garments and , , make them as carefully as you can. Pressing as you go along is as necessary as careful stitches.

You have been sewing mostly on cotton fabric that is washable. There are a few tricks to make your garments look their best. Mend torn places before washing so tears will not ravel and get larger. Wash­ ing may not be necessary if you keep your hands clean and use care in handling. But if you have been careless, here are a few hints.

WASH THEM You can wash practically every­ thing but your pincushion, either by hand. or in a washing machine.

Use mild soap and water that is not too hot for your hands. Some things · to remember about washing are: have a good suds, rinse two or three times, and hang outdoors or dry in dryer. Hang colored garments in the shade. Even sun­ fast clothes lose brightness if hung in sun.

If starching is necessary, use prepared or boiled starch. Cook boiled starch well and strain it. Thin with warm water as you use it. E. M. 2023 Page 12

IRON OR PRESS THEM Pressing differs from ironing. Both are twins of good sewing. When ironing, place your iron directly on the fabric. Heat, moisture from sprinkling, and pressure, smooth out wrinkles. Iron most cotton fabrics from wrong side to avoid shine. Then press lightly on right side to finish.

See that your iron doesn't get hot enough to scorch fabric. Test iron heat on a scrap or an inside seam even though iron has an automatic regulator.

When pressing, let heat and steam do your work. It's best to place a thin cloth or paper over fabric. Rest iron on fabric very lightly. Use an up-and-down motion. It's a good idea to Press or iron have a pan o:: water and sponge or soft cloth to moisten stub'Jorn wrinkles when either ironing or pressing. Always iron or press with fabric grain to avoid stretching. Iron cottons when you take them off line or out of dryer-, before quite dry. Or drunpen and roll them to make moisture even. Fabrics with a minimum care finish may need only a "touch-up'' with iron. Fold or place gar­ ment on hangers to dry thoroughly before putting away.

In picture you can see how to make a darn on a three-cornered tear. If it's a single straight tear, darn it like one of sides. This is the way to do it -

Use matching thread. Or ravel threads from matching scraps of fabric. Bring thread through fabric from wrong side about 1/4 inch beyond end of tear, and a little to right. Leave a 6-inch thread end. Follow thread of fabric and take small running stitches in rows back and forth over tear. Leave stitches rather loose so they won't pucker fabric.

~fuen you reach tear, fit edges of fabric together and take stitches across opening. Continue 1/4 inch beyond. Fasten thread through stitches of last row and clip. Thread a needle to 6-inch piece you left on wrong side at beginning of darn. Fasten this thread through stitches of first row as you did at end. Press with damp cloth.

Darn a tear E. M. 2023 Page 13

Keep Your Record Book Up to Date I. Judge your work and progress Exhibit what you mad~~ Have a Dress Parade* Show your outfits to your parents or friends. Hold your head high, walk tall, and smile. * Learn to use a score card and training aid for judging your garments and your style show. See E.M. 944, 944A, 750 and 750A.

Have a parade