Making a Skirt and Blouse

Item Type text; Book

Authors Church, Helen L.

Publisher College of Agriculture, University of Arizona (Tucson, AZ)

Download date 28/09/2021 20:21:50

Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/10150/312181

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on other simple things. You may the machine and its still have difficulty in stitching as guide. I have a place to keep my straight as you would like to. sewing equipment, as I made a Straight stitching comes with prac- sewing box. tice. My mother lets me practice Some girls begin their clothing by putting in tea towels. I projects with this unit. Your lead- also will add some sewing equip- er may ask you to buy or make a ment to my sewing box. sewing box. If you wish to make a Last year I learned to use a box, ask your leader for 4-H Cir- , shears, a gauge, and cular No. 145, "Learning to Sew." how to a needle and tie a It will show you how to make a knot. I also learned how to use sewing box.

Pincushion inches. Fold into a triangle and then round off the top. (See draw- ing below.) Place the square on one thick- ness of material. Be sure that it is placed straight with the threads. out with long, even strokes. Now cut a piece of elastic the length of the under side of your wrist. To Make You'll like the wrist pincushion. Fold the cloth into a triangle It is handy, as it is always with you. with the right sides together. You will save much time when together as m the picture below. sewing because it keeps you from laying down your needle in some place where you can't find it. Not taking care of your needle might cause an accident, too. Select a fabric dark in color, such as black, navy blue, dark green, or red. It must be dark so that you can see the pin heads Note that as you pin two pieces of easily. The material must be firm, fabric together, you place the yet the kind that is easy to stick a crossways to the edge. This makes pin into. Sateen is good, or any the pins easily removed as you piece of fine wool, or fine cotton. baste over them. To Cut Out Place end of elastic in end of Make a by cutting from cushion at left side as shown above. paper a square 4% inches by 4V2 Baste with even bastings. — 4 Note that you make even bast- first marking, (See the drawing ings % inch from the edge of the "A" below). One-half of this is for fabric. They will hold the edges to- the seam and the other is extra gether and make a line for you to room which will be taken up by follow when you by machine. the dress when it is on the hanger. In even bastings, the stitch is the Now cut the pattern so that it same length as the distance be- will be 9 to 12 inches long from tween stitches. the base of the hook of the hanger Your seam should be xk inch in when finished. Allow 1 inch for width. Stitch by machine, begin- hem across the bottom. Cut out the ning at left, leaving an opening at paper pattern and then use this pattern to cut out the protector m fabric. Mark center of protector by folding or creasing. Pin together. Mark the end of the stitching line % inch from either side of the center marking. This is to be the opening for the the side. (See red stitching in pic- ture above.) off point at top. f' Back stitch % inch to fasten thread. Turn right side out. Pull out ends. With your fingers and pencil, stuff the cushion tightly with raw wool, or hair, or wool ravelings. Old wool sweaters or are good. Cut them into small pieces. Stuff very tightly so that it will stand up in a peak. Now sew up the opening with small overhand stitches. Place the other end of the elastic in the cush- ion and fasten securely. There are other types of pin- cushions you may want. Some girls like one fastened to the arm of the B .

Garment Protector First make a paper pattern for your garment protector, using brown paper. Place the hanger with base of the hook V2 inch from the top of the paper. Mark around !| i the hanger. Remove the hanger. t i i| Draw a second line V2 inch from 11 11 the first line. This is the seam al- i i c if i! lowance for the top. Then make i, the sides 2 inches wider than the li \\ — 5 — hanger. Baste together, then stitch Now finish the seam by stitch- beginning at bottom and stitching ing V4 inch from your first line of to your marking. (See drawing stitching. Trim away the material marked "B" on page 5.) to the stitching (See drawing Be sure the seam is V2 inch in marked "C" on page 5.) width. Retrace your stitching for This should leave a finished % inch; clip threads closely. Now seam of % inch. The second line of clip the seam about an inch from stitching will keep it from ravel- either side of the opening, turn ing. Now press and turn 1-inch hem under and hem down. This makes at the bottom. Stitch with match- a % inch hem on the wrong side. ing thread across the bottom.

Who has to darn your socks? See that heels and toes are re- Mother probably has to darn for inforced. This, too, will save darn- Dad and Brother and other mem- ing. bers of your family. Here are standard children's Maybe you could lighten her sock sizes based on shoe sizes: task by your own socks. If Shoe Sizes Socks you have trouble with too many 12-13% 7% holes to darn, maybe you can find 10-11 7 the cause. While you're purchasing, think of the colors of your dresses and either match or contrast the colors. Buying Socks It's a good idea to take a sample of You'll need to learn a little your dress fabric with you when about buying socks. Do you buy you are ready to buy. Do your hose them too small? Remember, cotton blend with your dresses or other socks or anklets should not shrink. accessories such as purse, hair rib- Look for a sanforization mark. If bons, etc.? they are not sanforized, then buy a If you are buying your hose big larger size. enough and still have too many Nylon stretch socks now on the hose to mend, look at the inside of market are comfortable and may your shoes. Are they rough in some wear longer than other hose. spot, or is the torn? Your Be sure that socks are long shoe-repair man may be able to enough for your feet. Select size help you. according to the length of your If you don't have to spend so foot. For instance, if your foot much money for hose, you will measures 7 inches in length, then have more money to spend for you buy a size 7 sock or hose. If other things that you may want. they are nylon, buy them % inch To make your socks last as long as longer than your foot measure- possible, you will want to darn ment. your socks when holes first appear. Doming Socks 9. After lengthwise threads are in, begin putting in crosswise 1. Select darning thread the threads. same color and weight as your socks. 10. When hole is reached, weave over one thread, under one, etc. On 2. Trim away worn edges second row you will go under the around darn. thread and over opposite threads. 3. Now you are ready to replace 11. Use small running stitches threads by weaving. at outer edge. Continue until com- pleted. 4. Use a fine needle with long eye and select a darner. (An old electric light bulb is a good substi- SCORE CAED FOR DARN tute if you are careful.) Satis- Could factory Improve 5. Place hose right-side out over darner as you will work from the Is the darn conspicuous? right side. Does thread match? 6 Start with small running stitches without a knot, (See the Are stitches small? drawing below.) Have loops been left 7. Place lengthwise threads at end or does it starting back % inch from the edge pucker? of hole far enough to strengthen the space around the hole. Work in diamond shape. (See drawing be- Will the darn wear well? low.) Are the stitches close 8. Make small loop at each end enough together? of row to prevent puckering and to allow the darn to give when you Did weave extend out put the socks on (Look at the draw- from edge of hole ing.) at least % inch?

Making a Skirt Hanger One thing you will want to do is to provide a means of hanging up the skirt that you may make. There are many skirt hangers on the market. If you don't have one, you can easily make one or sev- eral using pinch clothes pins. Plas- tic ones are best. Select a color to go with your dresses or other closet accessories.

Selecting the Design Choosing Your Best Colors Do your friends make special comments when you wear certain colors? That should help to tell you what colors may be best for you. Next year you will study more about colors and your own color- ing. Be very careful in selecting a plain color to go with a color in a print. Always put them close to one another. It is difficult to remember colors. You will need to carry sam- ples with you when you go shop- ping. In your selection of a skirt you Your own coloring in skin, hair, will consider your size, Remember and eyes may have something to that gathers sometimes make you do with some colors looking better appear short. If you are chubby, on you than others. With the help they may not be as becoming as of your leader and your 4-H fri- , or gores, or possibly a circle ends, decide upon the colors that skirt. you want to look for when you If you are short, remember that shop. too great a contrast in blouse and skirt may make you appear shorter. You could use the same fabric in skirt and blouse. Take Your Measurements If there are three colors in a For Buying Pattern print, be sure that for the blouse Before you go shopping, you you select the color most becoming will need to know something about ,o your skin and hair. The plain your size. Your leader or another color of the blouse will always em- 4-H girl will help you to take the phasize that color in the print. Try following measurements: to pick the color least dominant in the print. Inches Bust: High Chest The blouse needs to be very simple. One without a collar is Across Bust easily made and, if it slips over your head, it may not need a neck Waist closing. It should not have set-in sleeves either if it is to be easily Hips made. You will find many blouse Length to Waist patterns that meet these require- ments. Length of Skirt — 9

You will probably have to make Look at the Label simple changes in the pattern to Look at the label. Ask the clerk make it fit. If it is a skirt pattern if the material is color-fast. The that you are buying, the hip and label should say "guaranteed fast waist measurements will be given. color to sun and water." Some cot- Note, too, that your pattern will tons carry the label "vat-dyed," tell you the amount of material That is the best dye for cottons. that you will need to buy accord- Sometimes the labels on fabrics ing to your size of pattern. are confusing. Be sure that you know what they mean before you buy. Selecting the Fabric Plaids and stripes are special- Now you are ready to select the problem fabrics. It will be neces- fabric. It will need to be a cotton. sary for you to buy more fabric You have decided on your best than called for in the pattern, colors. Ask the clerk to show you should you decide on a plaid or prints and ginghams that will go stripe. A plaid will not be too with your pattern. difficult for a gathered dirndl skirt. If the skirt is to be gathered at Other designs call for too much the waistline, the fabric must not matching of plaid. be too heavy or bulky. If it is a Choose Design circular skirt and fits at the waist- Your first garment would be line, then you might find heavier less difficult to make if it is made material suitable, such as Indian of other designs. Remember, plaids Head or any of the novelty cottons. and stripes must match at all seam Sometimes you can find lovely lines. designs and fabrics in drapery de- If it is a gathered dirndl skirt, partments if you are unsuccessful you may not need a pattern. You finding what you want in regular may buy 2 or 3 skirt lengths of fabric departments. Remember, material. The amount of fullness circular skirts might become very will depend upon the weight of the heavy and bulky if your material material. If it is heavy, 2 widths is too heavy. will be enough. Amount of shrinkage is the sec- To determine the correct ond thing to look for. It is possible amount, tie a tape or a string to buy cotton fabric that will not around your waist line. Measure shrink more than 2 percent; these the desired skirt length. Add 2 or are labeled "pre-shrunk." 3 inches for the hem. Now add 5 Sanforized fabrics shrink no inches for a skirt band. Double this more than 1 percent. Words like and you will have the amount of "washable" mean nothing. But if material needed for a dirndl skirt. the amount of shrinkage is given or You probably will be buying a the word "sanforized" is used, you print. Examine the torn edge on are sure of the amount of shrink- the bolt before purchasing. If the age. design runs crooked across it, do Arizona sunshine is not kind to not purchase it. It will have to be colors. Therefore, you need to buy made crooked, as you must follow the best if you expect bright and the line or filling threads in colorful clothing to stay that way. cutting and fitting the garment. -11 — Threads and snaps should be bought according After you have selected the pat- to color. The black ones go on dark tern, buy the necessary buttons, background fabric and light ones hooks, eyes, snaps, thread. If you on pastel shades. have a gathered skirt you will not buy a . Maybe you had bet- ter wait until your third year be- Getting Material Ready fore you learn to put in a zipper. You learned to straighten edges The thread should match the of fabric in your first year by tear- fabric. If it's a print, the thread ing or cutting on a pulled thread. should match the background col- After you have done this you may or. Unwind a little of the thread feel that when you place the sel- and match it to the fabric. When vedges together the ends will it's on the spool, it will seem to be seem crooked. If so, have one of darker than your material. If you your fellow 4-H'ers grasp one end use mercerized thread, it will make of the material and you take the much nicer outside stitching. It other. Be sure that the ends are looks like the yarns that are used even. Then pull see-saw. to make the fabric. This should straighten the warp Buttons to be put on a cotton threads so that when you place dress should be washable. If the selvedges and ends together, the is just a fastener, it is usu- material will lay out nice and ally as inconspicious as possible. straight. If you cannot straighten Plastic buttons often fade and it by this method, wet the fabric melt when touched by a hot iron. and while it is still wet or damp, The pearl button or a good bone pull the fabric in the same manner. button will last the lifetime of the Many of the new resin finishes can- garment. not be straightened. The button should be very plain If the material is not sanforized if the fabric has many figures in it. or pre-shrunk, then it is necessary Use buttons with design and color for you to shrink it. You can on plain fabrics. Always buy one straighten it at the same time if extra button when buying. This necessary. To shrink the fabric, may save you from buying a new wash it in soap and water. Fold it set of buttons. with selvedges together and dry. Hooks and eyes will be needed Then press, keeping selvedges to- on your skirt where it fastens if gether. As you press, press from there is strain on the band. Such selvedge to fold. Let's Cut Out The Skirt You may have selected a design Kinds of Patterns for your skirt that calls for a com- There are two general kinds of mercial pattern. If so you will want patterns. One is printed with blue to spend time studying the pattern. lines that tell you the pattern edge You will find a guide sheet with and name of pieces. This type will the pattern pieces. Study this first. have names of the parts of the — 12 — pattern printed on it. The second In the unprinted pattern you type have parts spelled out with will find holes of different sizes. little holes. Now note that there The largest holes will be the may be extra pieces of the pattern straight of goods marking. Again that you will not use. Fold these lay yardstick along these holes and up and put them back into the en- extend a straight line from one end velope. of the pattern to the other end. Write pattern part names on Pass the line through these large each piece of the pattern. It might holes. be well to add your own name if You will find another set of you are working with a group. holes that often looks like this: The printed pattern needs to o ° o. They are usually along the have the edge around the pattern pattern edge, and this means that trimmed away before you start this edge is to be placed on the working with it. Yes, you could fold of your material. (See the leave it on and cut it off as you drawing at top of page 14.) cut it out, but you will probably Now that you have identified have difficulty placing the pieces all pattern pieces and their mark- on the material without wasting ings, you are ready to fit the pat- fabric. When you are more experi- tern to yourself. enced you may leave it on. Note Markings Now, note the other markings. Along the outside of the pattern, Fitting the Pattern you will find notches that tell you Laying Pattern On the Material the exact place to match the notch On your guide sheet you will with another piece that goes with find a drawing that shows how to it. These notches must be cut or lay your pattern pieces on the ma- marked on the material. terial Draw a circle around the Then notice another marking one that you will use. You will that says on printed pattern, lay note that there are different "lay- on straight of material. There may outs" for different widths of ma- be an arrow for a short distance terial. Pin this sheet up some on printed patterns. Take your place near your cutting table so yardstick and extend this to the that you can refer to it. Follow end of the pattern. This is the most this guide carefully in laying each important marking on your pat- piece. tern. Eemember the lines that you drew through the pattern. These lengthwise lines must be placed on the garment so that they run along the warp threads or the lengthwise threads in your ma- terial. One way to test this is to measure from the selvedge edge to your marking at several places along the long line. (See the draw- ing at top of page 14.) 13 — Pin the pattern onto the mater- Marking the Garment ial, placing pins perpendicular to the edge as in the drawing above. You can use tacks as shown in the drawing above. To After you have all pieces placed, make, use double thread of darn- maybe Mother or your leader ing cotton or any soft cotton thread. should check to see if there might Take stitches as in the drawing. Be be an error any place. sure that you leave the loops large enough. Pull the 2 pieces of mater- Ready to Cut ial slightly apart and clip.. If you have a and You are now ready to cut. Take 's carbon paper, you your long shears that should be will want to use them. Since your sharp to the end. Cut with long material is folded with wrong sides even strokes on the exact pattern to the inside, you can fold the trac- edge. When you come to a notch, ing paper so that the wax side is cut it away from the edge instead against the wrong sides of the of taking a nick out of the material. fabric. Then mark with tracing (See the drawing below.) wheel and ruler. (See drawing be- low.) Use the pastel colors of car- bon paper.

o°o

As you cut out each piece, fold it and put in in a box. After the garment is cut there will be mark- ings that must be put on the fab- Most of your markings will need ric, such as darts, plaits, tucks and to be on the wrong side of the fab- pockets, etc. These markings can ric. You may crease center-front be put onto the fabric in several and center-back folds with your ways. iron. — 14 — Order of Work 2. Putting the Skirt Together. 1. Stay Stitching the Edges If your skirt has darts, pin them in. Then with a ruler and pencil or If your skirt is cut with gores, marking chalk, mark slightly. you will need to stay stitch it Stitch from the broad end to the around the top and where there is narrow with the last 4 stitches slant at the side seams—usually coming just on the edge of the fold. from hip line to the top. Fasten threads at both ends. This stay stitching will keep the material from stretching as you Now press the darts towards the handle it. If the skirt is a circle center of the garment. If the skirt skirt, this will be most necessary has seams in front or back, pin around the top. Later you will find first the notch, then both ends, that stay stitching will eliminate placing pins perpendicular to the basting. edge. (See the drawing below.) To Stay Stitch a. Take your pattern from your pattern piece, then stitch the single thickness of each piece just inside the . b. The direction that you stitch makes a difference, so follow the arrows shown in the drawing be- low.

Then pin between these pins. Stitch, beginning at the bottom taking full seam allowance. Press seams open from bottom to top. The long seams that make the front and back can be stitched without basting if you use your seam guide. The side seams probably will Center Back need to be basted so that you can check the fit. Basting is not neces- sary in circle or gathered skirts. c. Stitch from side seam to Have your leader help to check center. (No, not across.) your skirt as to fit. Before you fit d. From hipline up to waist- the garment, you will need to baste line. on the waistband. e. A good rule to follow on Now you are ready to sew up stay stitching is to stitch from the the side seams. Sew from bottom to wide area to the narrow area. top and keep grain line straight. — 15 — 3. Making the Plaket inch longer than the opening, 1% METHOD I inch wide. If the skirt is gathered, it is easy b. Mark a line on skirt with chalk to put in a . It can look or pencil showing seam allowance, much like an opening with a zip- per. It will be made on the selvedge c. Crease one strip in center. edges. d. Place this strip on skirt back Here's how it's done: piece with wrong sides together. a. Fold back the front placket ex- Stitch, taking full seam allowance tension to the seam line (See "A" in seam. Retrace stitching to fasten in drawing below.) machine stitching. e. Trim seam to % inch. f. Now turn the piece over raw edges; fold back % inch and stitch by machine on right side. This Selvedge forms a V2 inch wide. (See "A" in drawing below.)

Back Front

b. Baste and machine stitch the length of the placket % inch from the folded edge. Stitch diagonally BACK FRONT to the folded edge, catching the back extension. (See "B" in draw- B ing above.) c. Tie threads securely on wrong side. LEFT SIDE d. At about 1 inch below the end of the placket clip the back seam allowance almost to the stitching The Front is a line. This will allow it to lie per- fectly flat if the seam is to be press- a. Sew other strip on front of ed open. skirt, right sides together, taking full seam allowance (See "B" in METHOD II drawing above.) Bound and Faced Placket b. Trim seam to % inch. If the skirt is a gored skirt and c. Trim off % inch of strip, turn fitted, you will make a faced and under %, inch. Baste and stitch by extension placket using the seam hand or by machine. Facing should allowance, which should be at least be % inch wide. % inch. d. Stitch across bottom of both To Make It: pieces fastening the two pieces to- a. Cut two strips of material an gether. — 16 — e. One or two snaps will be need- drawing below.) Be sure that right ed to be placed in the center of side of band and of skirt face one each piece to keep it from gaping. another. 4. Making the Waistband. b. Pin at side seams and center Do you remember your waist back and left side. measurement? Add to this mea- c. Allow back or right side to surement 3 inches (% inch for each extend 1 to 2 inches. seam and 2 inches for underlap). d. Now pull the bottom threads Stitch seam at both ends, press or the threads. Pull both and trim. Press the center strip so at the same time and distribute the that it is folded. Mark center front fullness between the pins. Do not and center back. (See drawing be- attempt to pull threads around the low.) entire skirt. Pull from side seam to side seam. 1/2" Seam Right Side Left Side e. Now pin fullness in care- r V fully and baste. Center f f. Machine stitch in center of gathers between the two lines of i gathering stitches. g. Tie threads securely and then fold over the band. Baste and hand hem to the back of the skirt. This work can be done by ma- chine, beginning from wrong side and turning the band to the right side, stitching by machine. Since you are inexperienced in machine 5. Gathering the Top. stitching, your results will prob- Gathering the top may be done ably be better if you finishth e band best by machine. Try using nylon as directed above by hand. thread, it will not break so easily. Center Back If you are doing it by machine, reg- ulate the stitch for a large stitch- about 7 stitches to the inch. Mother can help you to change the stitch on the machine. Make 2 rows of machine stitch- ing, the first row % inch from the edge of the skirt and the second % inch from the first row. Set your seam gauge to do this accurately. Outside 6. Attaching Waistband. 7. Putting on Hooks and Eyes Start and finish the 2 rows of Since you give a waistband lots stitching 1 inch from the placket. of pull and wear, it will be neces- (See the drawing at right.) sary to use hooks and eyes. You a. Now pin center front and will want to use 2 or maybe 3. back to right side of skirt. (See a. Place the hook on top of — 17 — front band on the under side Vs pressed. The finish can make the inch from the edge of the band seam conspicuous. and about Vs inch from top and The weight and weave of the bottom of the band. material determines the type of b. Sew around the 2 eyes of finish you will be using. A heavy the hook using the over-and-over material may cause the finish to stitch. (See drawing below.) be bulky. If the material is a print, you may finish it by making the sec- ond line of stitching about 1/16 inch from the edge. Stitch the two edges together as shown in the drawing below. Press and turn seams to the front.

c. Then sew across the top of the hook. This holds the end of the hook to the fabric. d. Now place the straight eye across the end of the back band. Sew it on with over-and-over stitch. When you learn to make the button-hole stitch, then you Another finish is lines of stitch- will put them on using this stitch. ing on both outside edges of seam. This is a satisfactory finish for 8, Finishing the Seams thicker materials. (See drawing be- You will want some kind of a low.) This allows you to press the finish on the seams. If your skirt seams flat. is a straight, gathered skirt you will use the selvedge, the natural finish. However, selvedge needs to be clipped every 4 to 6 inches so that as it shrinks it will not pucker. (See the drawing below.)

Some of your materials, if wo- ven firmly, can be pinked. (See drawing below.)

If you do not have selvedge edges, then choose a method of finishing. Remember, the seams need to be inconspicuous when — 18 —

The seams within a hem should 3. Take up one or two threads be- be pressed open. It may be neces- low in the skirt. (See "A" In sary to clip them at top of hem. drawing below.) Turn under raw edge about V& 4. Now put needle into fold about inch and stitch 1/16 inch from fold. just back of where it was last Use longer machine stitch—about put through. (See "B" in draw- 8 stitches per inch. (See "B" in ing below.) drawing below.) Pull the bottom thread just enough to make the hem fit smooth- ly. (See drawing "C" below.)

(Note: These stitches are en- larged to show detail.) Pull Thread This forms a tiny figure 8 or cross that holds the hem secur- ely. Be careful not to get too much in hem. Note that most of the It will not pull out if the ease will come near the seams. thread breaks. Another advantage of using Now you are ready to slip stitch this method is that stitches are or the hem in the skirt. less apt to show on right side Hold the hem toward you with the since material is not fastened so fold away from you (See drawing close to the skirt. Stitches can at right.) also be farther apart on wrong 1. Fasten your thread under the side as there are no long stitches hem. to catch and pull out. 2. Slip the needle into the under- There are other methods of side of the fold of the hem. putting in hems that are satis- Bring the needle out about % factory. You will learn those in inch forward. future projects. — 20- Let's Make A Blouse

If you made a skirt, you will need blouses to wear with it. If not, Careful checking of the pattern you probably have use for blouses will "make it fit." to go with skirts you bought or that Mother made for you.

front. (See picture above.) This Fitting the Blouse Pattern gives you the actual size of the blouse if cut exactly by the pat- You have been careful to select tern. If that is too tight or too the correct size pattern. However, loose, your leader will help you you may need to alter it. To do this, change your pattern. take seam tape and pin together the shoulder seams. Lap the front and Follow your guide sheet care- back so that the seams match. The fully. Remember your pattern tape will keep you from tearing the markings. Be sure that it is laid paper. upon the fabric correctly. Mark every construction line. Be sure Now pin another tape across the that darts, gatherings, akd open- bust line. Leave 1 inch of tape when ings are clearly marked. you start in front. Pin the tape across the front over the pattern and around to the center of the Order of Work back without cutting off the tape. 1. You will need to stay stitch Measure the amount of tape that the edges of the blouse to keep is used by bringing it back to the them from stretching as you handle front. Cut off this amount and the it. Stay stitch just the same as you 1 inch that you used to lap the did the skirt. Stitch shoulder line — 21

deep may be put in by machine or Check List for by hand. You can also finish it by turning up the pinked edges and Skirt and Blouse stitch twice. (See the drawing be- Veiy Needs low.) Well Satis- to Im- Done factory prove General Appearance: Cleanliness

Pressed

Selection: Color Combination .

If the fabric is heavy enough to Choice of Buttons - form a ridge under a straight skirt, try this finish. Put two rows of ma- Choice of Pattern . chine stitching around the bottom. These rows will be % inch apart. Choice of Material - Start them % inch from the bot- tom edge. Then after stitching is Matching Thread - finished pink the edge. (See the Workmanship: drawing below.) Collar

Darts or Gathers -

Facing

Fastening

Hem 8. Fastenings may be made Placket with hook and eye, button and loop, or a string tie. Avoid buttons and Band since you haven't learned to make buttonholes. A Seams button at an opening always calls Stitching: Hand for a or a loop for fast- ening. Machine - look your Best You will not look your best in and learn how to manicure your the dress you made if you are not nails. well groomed. Many things go to What tale do your hands tell? make up good grooming. Your Do they tell that you are neat and dress should be clean and well clean? Or do they say; "She's rare- pressed. This year you will take less and untidy." Let's not allow special care of your hands and nails our hands to tell false tales. — 25 — Care of Hands Here are some suggestions for your weekly manicure: There are little habits that you can form that make hand care easy. 1. Begin by washing hands. Of course, wash hands often, as they are always getting into dirt 2. Shape nails with file, then and germs. Since you wash them smooth with emery board. Avoid often, you will have to replace some of the natural oil. The hands shaping too deep at corners. Nails have so few oil glands. You may should take on general shape of want to use hand lotion containing your fingers. (Never extreme oils that will keep your hands soft. length.) What is cuticle? It is just lay- ers of skin like the outer layers of 3. Now soak finger tips in bowl any of your skin. It has few nerve of soapy water. This loosens cuticle. endings and very little blood. It doesn't like rough usage. Hangnails 4. Use blunt end of orange appear if we pick at it or cut it. It needs oil, too. The best care that stick wrapped with cotton and you can give it is to push back the gently push back cuticle. Now rinse cuticle with your towel each time and dry hands. that you wash your hands. 5. Apply polish if desired. Re- member that if you use polish it Manicuring Your Nails must be kept in perfect condition. Chipped and half-peeled polish Are you interested in manicur- looks bad. It's best not to use it if ing your nails? It is easy and calls you can't keep it looking nice. Re- for so little money. You will want member also to select a color that to give your hands a good manicure once a week. To do this you will goes with your color scheme. need: 6. If and when you apply 1. Mild soap and water polish, start at the base of the nail. 2. Nail file and emery board Avoid touching the cuticle with 3. Soft towel the polish. Brush up to the tip and with the thumb remove just the 4. Hand lotion or vaseline or cold cream edge of polish at the end of nail. 5. (manicure) 7. Clean off any stray bits of 6. Polish and remover (if you polish. To do this use cotton-cover- use it) ed orange stick and polish remover, 7. Orange wood stick 8. After polish is dry, massage 8. Cotton hands with good lotion from wrists 9. Nail brush to finger tips.

Making a Skirt and Bhitse

NAME Age- Town Rural Route Box No.. Club Name Leader's Signature at Completion Sewing Equipment You Have Added: (Check) YES NO Wrist Pin Cushion Seam Gauge for Machine . Hem Gauge You Made: (Check) Wrist Pin Cushion Garment Protector Skirt Blouse Care: (Check) Learned to Darn Socks Learned to Sew on Buttons Used Skirt Hanger to Hang Up Skirt Buymanship: (Check) Did You Buy Sanforized or Pre-Shrunk Material for Blouse and Skirt? Did Your Club Visit Stores Before Buying Garments? Did the Blouse Pattern You Bought Fit? Did You Alter the Pattern? (over) — 29 — HOW GOOD A CLUB MEMBER HAVE YOU BEEN?

I Gave Demonstrations: (Check) YES NO

In My Club

At County Achievement Day

At State Roundup

At Other Public Meetings \ I Exhibited at: (Check) Local Achievement Program

County Fair

State Fair -Committee I Served on An My Club I Was (Club Officer) My Club HelcL ^Meetings. I Attended- Meetings.

MY BLOUSE MY SKIRT

Paste cut-out pieces of fabric on drawings above.

Cost of Blouse: Cost of Skirt (over) his is a > publication of the •^-Agricultural Extension Service$ Uni¥eraity of Arizona# See your local County Agpicult'upal Agent or Home Demonstration Agent for other farm and home information•