The Art of Contemporary Jok Textiles:The Integration Between Craft and Creative Design หอสม ุดก ำนกั ลาง ส
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THE ART OF CONTEMPORARY JOK TEXTILES:THE INTEGRATION BETWEEN CRAFT AND CREATIVE DESIGN หอสม ุดก ำนกั ลาง ส By Miss Vitawan Chunthone A Thesis is Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Program in Design Arts International Program Graduate School Silpakorn University Acaemic Year 2013 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University THE ART OF CONTEMPORARY JOK TEXTILES:THE INTEGRATION BETWEEN CRAFT AND CREATIVE DESIGN อสม ุด ำนกั ห By กลาง ส Miss Vitawan Chunthone A Thesis is Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Program in Design Arts International Program Graduate School Silpakorn University Acaemic Year 2013 Copyright of Graduate School, Silpakorn University Graduate School, Silpakorn University has approved and accredited the Thesis title of The art of contemporary Jok textiles: The integration between craft and creative design. Submitted by Miss Vitawan Chunthone as a Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy Program in Design Arts. ……………………………………………………………………………... (Associate Professor Panjai Thratasanawong, Ph.D) Dean of Graduate School ............/......ม ................../.............. ำนกั หอส ุดกลาง ส The Thesis Advisor Assistant Professor Namfon Laisatrookrai, Ph.D. Veerawat Sirivasamas, Ph.D. The Thesis Examaination Committee .................................................... Chairman (Professor Ekachart Chanurairat) ............/......................../.............. .................................................... Member (Professor Peter Pilgrim) ............/......................../.............. .................................................... Member ……………………………………………..Member (Assistant Prof. Namfon Laisatrookrai, Ph.D.) (Veerawat Sirivesmas, Ph.D.) ............/......................../................ ............/......................../................ 51155958: MAJOR: DESIGN ARTS KEY WORD: CONTEMPORARY JOK TEXTILES / TAI YUAN / PRACTICE BASED / IDENTITY / VERTICAL FLOOR LOOM VITAWAN CHUNTHONE: THE CONTEMPORARY JOK TEXTILES: THE USE OF INNOVATIVE DESIGN AND NEW MATERIALS. THESIS ADVISORS: ASST. PROF. NAMFON LAISATROOKLAI, Ph.D., AND VEERAWAT SIRIVESMAS, Ph.D. 186 pp. This research was a Practice based Research combined with Applied Research. In this research, note taking, tape recording, interviewing, observing, photographing, video recording and questionnaire surveying were applied to primarily identify the concept of “Contemporary Jok Textile”. The หpurposesอสม of ุดthisก researchล were to sustain and create Jok textile art through new perspectivesำนกั that represent a relationshipาง between traditional crafts ส and contemporary design. This research was a combination of unconventional concepts and Art form inspired by “The beauty of Imperfection and the Flow”. Nowadays, Technological advancements, social value and economic change impacts on Jok textile regarded as invaluable heritage of Tai Yuan. That is, the role of Jok textile is continually decreasing. In the past, people wove Jok textile for household and religious uses. Recently, in contrast, the purpose of weaving Jok textile has shifted from weaving for domestic use to weaving for sale. However, the development cannot reach to the fullest because it is encountering several shortcomings such as a lack of professional weavers, a lack of various materials and weaving equipment and a lack of comprehensive understanding on its own identity. These result is unable to make local textiles unique and decreasing their aesthetic values. The hypotheses of this study were to present new perspectives of contemporary Jok textile design, to create new Jok motifs and promulgate them to the public and to present new image of contemporary Jok textile which is more international and suitable for current trends. The findings of the study revealed that the alternative weaving tool or the “Vertical Floor Loom” invented by the researcher was the significant factor which enabled weavers to create new and attractive woven textile structures. The researcher believes that this research study would be useful for creative people who place great importance on the value of art work such as artists, interior designers and contemporary art collectors and be great inspiration for the development of Jok textile in the future. Program of Design Arts Graduate School, Silpakorn University Student's signature ........................................ Academic Year 2013 Thesis Advisors' signature 1. .......................................... 2. .......................................................... iii Acknowledgments I would like to express my very great appreciation to Thammasat University for an annual faculty development scholarships year 2008. I am particularly grateful for the assistance given by Assistant Professor Dr. Namfon Laisatrookrai who is my research project supervisor and also a chairman of PhD. Programme for her professional guidance and valuable support as well as special thanks should be given to Dr. Colin Gale, my second supervisor for his useful and constructive recommendations on this project. Professor Dr. Pairoj Jamuni I wish to thank variousกั ห peopleอสม forุด theirกล contribution to this project; Jaroon Paramee, Thongyou Kamlangharnำน and Pim Chomputaes,าง Manee Sukaseam Master Jok ส weavers, for their valuable information. Komol Panishapan and Sathorn Sorajprasobsanti who give me knowledge about history of Tai Yuan and Tai Phuan ethnic group as well as show me ancient precious textiles collections. And thanks for Kachama K. Parez and Jakkai Siributr who both have inspired me for the world of contemporary Thai textiles. Advices given by Krist Yensudjai and Dr.Linda Maintoch have been a great help in alternative perspective or image of hand woven Jok textiles. Finally, I wish to thank my parents for their support and encouragement me throughout my study, especially my mother who is inspired me to interested in Jok textiles since I was a young. vi Table of Content Page Abstract .................................................................................................................................. iii Acknowledgement............................................................................................................... iv List of Figures........................................................................................................................ viii Chapter 1 Introduction and Background.............................................................................. 1 The Current situation...................................................................................... 1 Purpose of the study......................................................................................อสมุด 4 Hypothesis ofำ theน กัresearch............................................................................ห กลาง 4 Areas of Research ส ............................................................................................ 5 Research process ............................................................................................. 6 Research Methodotogy................................................................................... 8 2 Literature Review and related studies.............................................................. 11 Jok Textiles........................................................................................................ 11 A History of Jok weaving in Tai ethnic groups and the Characteristics of Jok textile in other regions of the world.......... 11 The classification of Jok textile on their usages.............................. 22 Costumes....................................................................................... 23 Household and everyday life uses.......................................... 24 Ritual ceremonmy....................................................................... 26 The classification of Jok motifs of Tai ethnic groups...................... 27 Tai-Yuan ......................................................................................... 28 Tai-Phuan or Lao-Phuan............................................................. 31 Tai Krang or Lao-Krang................................................................ 33 Tai Lue............................................................................................ 34 Phu Tai........................................................................................... 37 Jok weaving method: the use of material and equipment .......... 38 The classification of Jok motifs: The interpretation and Meaning...................................................................................................... 44 Mythical / Spirtual creature ...................................................... 45 Animal and Floral/Plant............................................................. 48 v Chapter Page Other designs................................................................................ 51 The current statues of Jok textiles.............................................................. 56 Art Research...................................................................................................... 56 The identification of the aesthetic value of Jok textiles............... 56 Visual Design Theory.............................................................................. 57 The survey of the development of Traditional Jok textiles through contemporary use..................................................................