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Home , Bouldering, Chuck Pratt, Clean climbing, Climbing area, El Capitan, Matthes Crest

Minimize Your Impacts Photo courtesy K arl Bralich Abandoned ropes, , Permanent scars created Resist the temptation to An example of systematic Use of Motorized power Hand drilling protection bolts is Avoid creating unintended Don’t leave trash for Properly Store your food Both Day and Night— and cord from from hammering Remove plant life from Cracks lichen removal drills is prohibited permitted. Please use discretion! trails like this one others to clean up Bears Actively Seek Food Left By climbers

• Cl e a n Cl i m b i n g . Most of Yosemite’s climbing • Fixed Ropes. The (NPS) • Bo l t i n g Po l i c y . Currently climbers may hand drill • Ga r d e n i n g . Intentionally removing plant life is • F o o d St o r a g e . Do not leave any food, drinks, areas are in designated Wilderness and discourages the use of fixed ropes. If you fix protection or bolts. The use of motorized not permitted in Yosemite. Serious resource toiletries, or trash at the base of the wall—bears accordingly must remain “with the imprint of ropes, only do so immediately before beginning power drills are prohibited. When you place a damage can be caused by “gardening” to establish seek food left by climbers. For multi-day climbs, man’s work substantially unnoticeable.” Please your ascent, and remove once committed to the new , keep in mind that you are permanently new routes or boulder problems. food and scented items must be stored in a bear- respect “” ethics throughout route. If you plan to return to a project regularly, altering the rock. If proper discretion is not used, resistant canister or hung at least 50 feet off the Yosemite. Avoid nailing whenever possible and leave your ropes in place only when you are this policy may change. • Pr o t e c t Li c h e n . Yosemite’s walls and ground on 5.9 or harder climbing. If you can don’t drill new holes or chisel gear placements. actively working the route. Do not leave ropes or boulders are covered in a lifeform called lichens. reach your food without climbing gear, it is not Never fabricate holds or change the nature of gear on popular routes—this takes away from the • Ne w Ro u t e s . If planning a new route, take the time Lichens give the rock its streaked and blackened stored correctly. Remember to remove all scented established climbs. experience of other climbers. to talk to the local Yosemite’s climbing community colors. They tend to grow at a slow rate, may be items from your car. Food lockers are available and become familiar with the history of the thousands of years old, and are an important part at the El Capitan bridge, at the Zodiac approach, • Ab a n d o n e d Pr o p e r t y . Property left unattended • “Established” Fixed Ropes & Routes. Ropes area. New routes have a profound impact on the of the ecosystem. Protect lichens by climbing on The Ahwahnee, and (see map). for longer than 24 hours can be impounded. If it found below Heart Ledges, East Ledges, and the environment around the route through vegetation established routes, faces, and boulders where Please do not place a lock on these shared lockers. is impractical to return to fixed ropes within 24 Slabs approach to are not maintained loss, at the base of climbs, disturbing lichens have not established themselves. hours, leave ropes and equipment in place only or condoned by the NPS. Do not expect these animal habitat, and permanent bolts left behind. • T r a s h . All trash must be carried down from the as long as you are actively using them. Label ropes to be in place, and be prepared to climb or There are thousands of established routes in • U s e Ex i s t i n g App r o a c h Tr a i l s . Stick to signed or and disposed off appropriately. It is illegal to equipment, ropes, and water bottles with your descend without them. Yosemite—consider climbing these instead of obvious approach trails in order to avoid creating throw anything off Yosemite’s cliffs. Even small contact information to avoid removal. creating new ones! new, unintended trails that may confuse others, things thrown from the wall can potentially injure

Fishcrack at Cascade Falls (5.12b) Photo courtesy Mikey S chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com cause soil erosion, and vegetation loss. people below. If you pack it in, pack it out. Welcome! Multi-Day Climbing Safety

Rock climbing in the United States has its roots • Wi l d e r n e ss Pe r m i t s . Although most of • Sa f e t y . has inherent risks and in Yosemite, and it remains one of the world’s Yosemite’s walls are within designated climbers assume complete responsibility for their greatest climbing areas. in Yosemite Wilderness, permits are not required for own safety. The National Park Service does not Valley is even listed on the National Register nights spent on multi-day, big wall routes. maintain routes. Rockfall zones occur throughout of Historic Places for its significant association A permit for overnight use is required the park near any cliff faces—rockfall, loose rock, with the growth and development of rock in all other Wilderness zones. Visit www.nps. and other hazards can exist on any route. Rescue climbing. The park is not just a climber’s gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm is not a certainty. If you get into difficulties, the Bathroom “Facilities” playground—its walls and crags are an integral or call 209/372-0740 for more information and be prepared to . Know what to do in part of a larger ecosystem, most of which are reservations. Forty percent of available permits • “Ve r t i c a l Re l i e f ” (Hu m a n Wa s t e ) When emergency situations—including injury treatment, protected as Congressionally-designated are held on a first-come, first-served basis. These attempting a multi-day climb, you are required evacuations, unplanned bivouacs, or responding to Wilderness for people to enjoy in a natural permits become available at Wilderness Centers to pack out your human waste and dispose of rapid changes in weather. Be aware that courtesy state for generations to come. As the number in the park one day before you plan to leave for it properly. Use a “poop tube” or container for is an element of safety. Do not create a dangerous of climbers visiting the park has increased your trip. When camping in the wilderness, transporting your waste. When climbers leave situation by passing another party without their throughout the years, the impacts of climbing all applicable rules must be followed— unsanitary waste behind on ledges or toss it consent. Falling rock or gear is a serious hazard— have become more obvious. Many of these carry out all trash, store food in bear canisters, off the wall, it’s an eyesore, a health and safety Overnight on El Capitan Photo courtesy L incoln E lse be careful when climbing above others, and wear impacts can be eliminated or greatly reduced build campfires only in established fire rings, concern, and downright gross. Here are a few a helmet. For more information on accidents, bury human waste 6-8 inches underground or by following the practices outlined in this tips for vertical relief: rescues and general safety information, visit pack it out, and wash at least 100 feet from • Pa r k i n g Fo r Mu l t i -Da y Cl i m b s . Parking brochure—ensuring that Yosemite’s high- www.friendsofyosar.org trails and water sources, and leave no trace. • Go to the bathroom in a paper bag or in a overnight for multi-day routes is permitted at quality climbing will remain intact and prefabricated human waste disposal bag like the El Capitan crossover or El Capitan meadow • Em e r g e n c i e s . If you are injured or stranded accessible for years to come. For more • Ca m p i n g . Camping at the base of any wall in Wagbags or Restops and then put that bag in (see map). For Half Dome overnights, park in while on a climb and cannot self-rescue, cell information, call 209/372-0360 or visit —including El Capitan—is a container to carry off the cliff. the trailhead parking past . phones, personal locator beacons, spot and www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm. prohibited. Camping at the base of Half Dome and other backcountry walls is allowed with a • Carry your container down with you and family-band radios, and whistles may be useful valid permit. Additionally, climbers often stay empty it into a pit toilet like those at the base • Cl i m b i n g In s t r uc t i o n , Gu i d e Se r v i c e & Ge a r in obtaining emergency assistance. Dial 911 to of the East Ledges descent from El Capitan. Pu r c h a s e . Visit the Yosemite report emergencies, whistle, or yell for help.

om Frost in Camp 4, open all year on a first-come, first-served basis. Visit www.nps.gov/yose/ Do not attempt to drop bags into pit School and Mountain Shop in Yosemite Valley If you require a helicopter evacuation, do planyourvisit/campground.htm for more toilets because they clog the pumps used to or Tuolumne (see map). Call 209/372-8344 or exactly what you are told by rescue personnel. information on campgrounds in the park. empty the toilets. visit www.yosemitemountaineering.com for If you self-rescue, there is a medical clinic in

Chuck Pratt Rapelling Salathe Wall, 1961 Photo courtesy T information on rates and schedules. Yosemite Valley (see map).

Yosemite National Park Partners Rock Climbing This publication and most of Yosemite’s bear-resistant food storage lockers The National Park Service worked with local for climbers were made possible through generous support from: There are thousands “slackers” to create a slackline policy: of boulder problems The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization throughout the park. • Black oak populations in Yosemite Valley that keeps U.S. climbing areas As bouldering grows in appear to be declining. Slacklines must not open and conserves the climbing environment. popularity, more boulders be constructed on oak trees. www.accessfund.org are being developed. Help reduce bouldering • All lines must be properly padded to protect impacts by doing the trees. There are many ways to pad and protect Special thanks also to: following: the anchor trees: carpet, sticks, sleeping pads, haul bags, and clothing. Check periodically to • Follow established be sure that your tree protection is working. approach trails when Chalk leaves hiking to bouldering areas. unnatural markings • Lines may remain in place within 200 feet of the Camp 4 boundary for the duration of the

Yosemite Climbing Association Yosemite Association is a • Never cut or break tree limbs, remove owner’s stay and must be tagged with the is a nonprofit organization membership-based nonprofit lichen, or damage vegetation to owner’s name and contact information. dedicated to preserving and organization that initiates protecting Yosemite’s rich and supports interpretive, establish a bouldering route. climbing heritage and making it educational, research, scientific, • All lines constructed outside Camp 4 must available for public viewing and environmental programs in • Keep bouldering areas clean. Pick up and be removed when not in use. and interpretation. . pack out trash—including cigarette butts. www.yosemiteclimbing.org www.yosemite.org • Lines must not be attached to man-made • Bouldering pads may kill fragile plant life. structures such as bridges. om Frost. Try to find a different boulder problem if the landing isn’t on durable ground free of vegetation.

The unites Friends of YOSAR is a non- climbers to advance the climbing profit organization that supports • Minimize chalk use and clean off chalked way of life. We provide knowledge Yosemite Search & Rescue, and holds when possible, especially on overhung and inspiration, conservation and provides public outreach and advocacy, and logistical support for education materials regarding routes that rain won’t clean. If you must tick the climbing community. safety in Yosemite National Park. Midnight Lightning (V9), holds, clean the marks when you’re done. , , and Photo courtesy Mikey S chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com www.americanalpineclub.org www.friendsofyosar.org Columbia Boulder at Camp 4 SLACKLINING At Camp 4 Photo courtesy Mikey S chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com Protect trees from slacklines by placing Slacklines must not be on the first ascent

padding between the tree and the rope constructed on oak trees of the North American Wall in 1964 courtesy T Photo by C huck Pratt. Provided Glen Aulin High SierraF Camp Ten Lakes YOSEMITE CLIMBING AREAS

Tuolumne Meadows Area

Tu olu m n e Dog Lake

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1188 Cottage Domes Hammer 1166 Dome 1177 Daff Dome 2211 Lembert Tuolumne Parsons Dome Lodge Memorial Lodge V T Tuolumne Bear-resistant 1 ClimbingMeadows Area Tioga Road W 2222 Puppy Food Storage Locker Dome Goldfinger on Phobos Demos Cliff (5.12a) North and South 1155 1199 Fairview P hoto courtesy M ikey S chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com Whizz Dome 1144 The Lamb Dome Bouldering Area Mountain Shop Tuolumne Meadows Yosemite Valley Tioga Road XL $ FN! Legend 1133 Drug Dome Climber/Trailhead W Mariuolumne 1122 1 Bear-resistant WildernessV F Center! Dome Food Locker Overnight Parking* T L Low Profile Dome 1100 N U X 1111 Medlicott Dome Bouldering Area Mountain Shop Day Use Parking Visitor Center Climber/Trailhead !#$&OUTR Phobos Deimos Cliff 5 Overnight Parking* Wilderness Center FLNVXZ Mount May Lake Hoffman 9 Dozier Dome While climbing areas can be found 20 Cathedral Peak Mountaineer’s Dome 4 8 Pywiack Dome Day Use Parking Visitor Center throughout theMedical park, Yosemite’s Clinic most popular Grocery Store F Unicorn climbing areas are concentrated in Peak Elizabeth May Lake Lake Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows. High Sierra Camp Cathedral Lakes Harlequin Dome 3 Medical Clinic Grocery Store 7 Pennyroyal Campground Restaurant V Arches Stately Pleasure Dome 2 Campground Restaurant Cl i m b i n g Cl o su r e s . Peregrine falcon nest sites Cathedral Pass are protected annuallyWalk-in to minimize disturbance to Picnic Area Lake Walk-in Picnic Area this rare and beautifulCampground bird species. The peregrine 6 Tenaya Campground V Peak is in the process of recovering from decades of Restroom Gas pesticide poisoningRestroom and is currently listed as a Gas Olmstead State endangered species. Yosemite Canyon Payphone Typical Peregrine currently protects peregrines by seasonally 2233 Matthes Crest Nesting Area closing the nesting area to climbing and other (This area is likely Payphone Typical Peregrine 1 Olmsted Waterway/ be closed to climbers activities during the breeding period from March 1 Tioga Road Canyon Nesting Area Drainage from March 1-Aug 1) until August 1 of each year or until the young (This area is likely Road * Note: Camping in your peregrine falcons of the current year have fledged Olmsted Point vehicle is prohibited in and dispersed from the area. Yosemite monitors be closed to climbers Trail parking areas these sites annually to detect changesDrainage in its from March 1-Aug 1) Sunrise High Sierra Camp population. Typical peregrine closures are noted F on the map, but keep in mind thatRoad the closed areas Note: Camping in your can change depending on the peregrine’s choice * of nesting area. Trail vehicle is prohibited

Vogelsang High Sierra Camp 1 Climbing Area Bear-resistant Yosemite Valley Area F Food Storage Locker Bouldering Area Mountain Shop Vogelsang 35 Mt. Watkins

Lake osemite N ational P ark Archives Climber/Trailhead Peregrine Falcon Wilderness Center n yo n 36 Clouds OvernightC ourtesy of the Y Parking* Ca ya Rest na Te Virtually every cliff face in Yosemite is subject to Yosemite Village Yosemite Valley X W L! rockfall—closures may occur at any time dueDay to Use Parking Visitor Center rockfall and other hazardous conditions. Yosemite 2233 Point and Lost Arrow 30 Be aware that climbing regulations are subject to Yosemite Medical Clinic Grocery Store Falls change. Check for updates and climbing closures Five Open Books Church Bowl 2222 Mirror on the park website, climbing information 2277 Lake T 2288 Royal 2299 Washington Ahwahnee Column boards in the park, and online climbing forums. Swan Slab 2121 Hotel Arches Campground Restaurant Area 32 Half Dome Yosemite U Northwest Face Camp 4 F Lodge North Pines Lower Pines F s e fu l h o n e u m b e r s n d e b s i t e s 2266 Chapel F 33 Half Dome U P N A W . Wall South Face Walk-in Picnic Area Ribbon r Check for To report emergencies call 911 ced Rive U Falls er specifics on Campground M Gold Wall 12 Upper Pines route closures East Ledges Yellow Pine F Lost Lake Volunteer U Yosemite rock climbing information and regulations: 19 FCampground F 6 Knob Hill Visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm and Owl Roof 17 El Capitan 2020 Manure Pile 31 Glacier Wilderness Permit Required or call 209/372-0360 Restroom Gas Pit Toilet For Point Apron / Human Waste 18 Shultz’s V Disposal 2525 Sentinel Glacier Happy U Ridge Rock Point Isles Up-to-date rock information: 7 Reed’s Pinnacle Check for Big Oak Flat Road Pat and Jack Pinnacle 4 rive 34 Drive e D 2244 Sentinel specifics on Liberty www.supertopo.com/climbingareas.html thside U hsid route closures and Cascade Falls 8 Five and Dime Nor Sout Cap El Capitan U Creek Typical Peregrine 10 Little Meadow Payphone Wing 0 1 2 Curry Village 4 Supertopo climbers forum: 5 The Rostrum Area $ Nesting Area Check for Miles www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.html specifics on 9 The Pulpit U 120 Cookie Cliff 3 route closures 13 Lower Cathedral (This area is likely Wa Bridalveil Yosemite weather, webcam and current conditions: wona U Falls 14 Middle Cathedral Tunnel d be closed to climbers 2 a Elephant o Star King Lake www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/conditions.htm R 15 Higher Cathedral nt Rock Leaning 11 oi r P Drainage from March 1-Aug 1) e Tower ci 16 Cathedral Spires la G Yosemite road conditions: Call 209/372-0200 (press 1, then 1) for the most up-to-date Yosemite road conditions Road 41 Wilderness conditions and trail updates: * Note: Camping in your d

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Foresta a W Wilderness permits: 140 / Mount Star King www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm, call 209/372-0740, or visit a Wilderness Center in the park

El Portal Road Camping: 0 1 2 4 Visit www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/camping.htm for Arch Rock 1 Miles information and www.recreation.gov to make a reservation DNC accommodations, dining, and activities: www.yosemitepark.com

Sierra Nevada Wilderness areas: www.sierranevadawild.gov