Minimize Your Climbing Impacts arl Bralich K Photo courtesy ABANDONED ROPES, WEBBING, PERMANENT SCARS CREATED RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO AN EXAMPLE OF SYSTEMATIC USE OF MOTORIZED POWER HAND DRILLING PROTECTION BOLTS IS AVOID CREATING UNINTENDED Don’t leAVE TRASH FOR PROPERLY STORE YOUR FOOD BOTH DAY AND Night— AND CORD FROM EL CAPITAN FROM HAMMERING PITONS REMOVE PLANT LIFE FROM CRACKS LICHEN REMOVAL DRILLS IS PROHIBITED PERMITTED. PLEASE USE DISCRETION! TRAILS LIKE THIS ONE OTHERS TO CLEAN UP BEARS ACTIVELY SEEK FOOD LEFT BY CLIMBERS • Cl e a n Cl i m b i n g . Most of Yosemite’s climbing • Fixed Ropes. The National Park Service (NPS) • Bo l t i n g Po l i C y . Currently climbers may hand drill • Ga r d e n i n g . Intentionally removing plant life is • F o o d St o r a g e . Do not leave any food, drinks, areas are in designated Wilderness and discourages the use of fixed ropes. If you fix protection or anchor bolts. The use of motorized not permitted in Yosemite. Serious resource toiletries, or trash at the base of the wall—bears accordingly must remain “with the imprint of ropes, only do so immediately before beginning power drills are prohibited. When you place a damage can be caused by “gardening” to establish seek food left by climbers. For multi-day climbs, man’s work substantially unnoticeable.” Please your ascent, and remove once committed to the new bolt, keep in mind that you are permanently new routes or boulder problems. food and scented items must be stored in a bear- respect “clean climbing” ethics throughout route. If you plan to return to a project regularly, altering the rock. If proper discretion is not used, resistant canister or hung at least 50 feet off the Yosemite. Avoid nailing whenever possible and leave your ropes in place only when you are this policy may change. • Pr o t e C t li C h e n . Yosemite’s granite walls and ground on 5.9 or harder climbing. If you can don’t drill new holes or chisel gear placements. actively working the route. Do not leave ropes or boulders are covered in a lifeform called lichens. reach your food without climbing gear, it is not Never fabricate holds or change the nature of gear on popular routes—this takes away from the • Ne w ro U t e S . If planning a new route, take the time Lichens give the rock its streaked and blackened stored correctly. Remember to remove all scented established climbs. experience of other climbers. to talk to the local Yosemite’s climbing community colors. They tend to grow at a slow rate, may be items from your car. Food lockers are available and become familiar with the history of the thousands of years old, and are an important part at the El Capitan bridge, at the Zodiac approach, • Ab a n d o n e d Pr o P e r t y . Property left unattended • “Established” Fixed Ropes & Routes. Ropes area. New routes have a profound impact on the of the ecosystem. Protect lichens by climbing on The Ahwahnee, and Bridalveil Fall (see map). for longer than 24 hours can be impounded. If it found below Heart Ledges, East Ledges, and the environment around the route through vegetation established routes, faces, and boulders where Please do not place a lock on these shared lockers. chaefer | www.mikeylikesrocks.com is impractical to return to fixed ropes within 24 Slabs approach to Half Dome are not maintained loss, erosion at the base of climbs, disturbing S lichens have not established themselves. hours, leave ropes and equipment in place only or condoned by the NPS. Do not expect these animal habitat, and permanent bolts left behind. • t r a S h . All trash must be carried down from the as long as you are actively using them. Label ropes to be in place, and be prepared to climb or There are thousands of established routes in • US e ex i S t i n g app r o a C h tr a i l S . Stick to signed or cliff and disposed off appropriately. It is illegal to equipment, ropes, and water bottles with your descend without them. Yosemite—consider climbing these instead of obvious approach trails in order to avoid creating throw anything off Yosemite’s cliffs. Even small contact information to avoid removal. creating new ones! new, unintended trails that may confuse others, things thrown from the wall can potentially injure FISHCRACK AT CASCADE FALLS (5.12b) Photo courtesy Mikey cause soil erosion, and vegetation loss. people below. If you pack it in, pack it out. Welcome! Multi-Day Climbing Safety Rock climbing in the United States has its roots • Wi l d e r n e ss Pe r m i t S . Although most of • Sa F e t y . Rock climbing has inherent risks and in Yosemite, and it remains one of the world’s Yosemite’s walls are within designated climbers assume complete responsibility for their greatest climbing areas. Camp 4 in Yosemite Wilderness, permits are not required for own safety. The National Park Service does not Valley is even listed on the National Register nights spent on multi-day, big wall routes. maintain routes. Rockfall zones occur throughout of Historic Places for its significant association A permit for overnight use is required the park near any cliff faces—rockfall, loose rock, with the growth and development of rock in all other Wilderness zones. Visit www.nps. and other hazards can exist on any route. Rescue climbing. The park is not just a climber’s gov/yose/planyourvisit/wildpermits.htm is not a certainty. If you get into difficulties, THE BAthroom “Facilities” playground—its walls and crags are an integral or call 209/372-0740 for more information and be prepared to self rescue. Know what to do in part of a larger ecosystem, most of which are reservations. Forty percent of available permits • “Ve r t i C a l re l i e F ” (hU m a n wa S t e ) When emergency situations—including injury treatment, lse protected as Congressionally-designated are held on a first-come, first-served basis. These attempting a multi-day climb, you are required E evacuations, unplanned bivouacs, or responding to permits become available at Wilderness Centers rapid changes in weather. Be aware that courtesy Wilderness for people to enjoy in a natural to pack out your human waste and dispose of incoln state for generations to come. As the number in the park one day before you plan to leave for it properly. Use a “poop tube” or container for L is an element of safety. Do not create a dangerous of climbers visiting the park has increased your trip. When camping in the wilderness, transporting your waste. When climbers leave situation by passing another party without their throughout the years, the impacts of climbing all applicable rules must be followed— unsanitary waste behind on ledges or toss it consent. Falling rock or gear is a serious hazard— have become more obvious. Many of these carry out all trash, store food in bear canisters, off the wall, it’s an eyesore, a health and safety OVERNIGHT ON EL CAPITAN Photo courtesy be careful when climbing above others, and wear impacts can be eliminated or greatly reduced build campfires only in established fire rings, concern, and downright gross. Here are a few a helmet. For more information on accidents, bury human waste 6-8 inches underground or by following the practices outlined in this tips for vertical relief: rescues and general safety information, visit pack it out, camp and wash at least 100 feet from • Pa r k i n g Fo r mU l t i -da y Cl i m b S . Parking brochure—ensuring that Yosemite’s high- www.friendsofyosar.org trails and water sources, and leave no trace. • Go to the bathroom in a paper bag or in a overnight for multi-day routes is permitted at quality climbing will remain intact and prefabricated human waste disposal bag like the El Capitan crossover or El Capitan meadow • Em e r g e n C i e S . If you are injured or stranded accessible for years to come. For more • Ca m P i n g . Camping at the base of any wall in Wagbags or Restops and then put that bag in (see map). For Half Dome overnights, park in while on a climb and cannot self-rescue, cell information, call 209/372-0360 or visit Yosemite Valley—including El Capitan—is a container to carry off the cliff. the trailhead parking past Curry Village. phones, personal locator beacons, spot and www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbing.htm. prohibited. Camping at the base of Half Dome and other backcountry walls is allowed with a • Carry your container down with you and family-band radios, and whistles may be useful valid permit. Additionally, climbers often stay empty it into a pit toilet like those at the base • Cl i m b i n g in S t r uc t i o n , gU i d e Se r V i C e & ge a r in obtaining emergency assistance. Dial 911 to of the East Ledges descent from El Capitan. PU r C h a S e . Visit the Yosemite Mountaineering report emergencies, whistle, or yell for help. om Frost in Camp 4, open all year on a first-come, T first-served basis.