Hamilton FY • SEPTEMBER 2018 • 24 Dune-du-Sud or SouthDune Travel |MagdalenIslands, from theQuebec mainlandthat theyare a ofQuebec—are sofar despite beinga part out intheGulfofSt.far Lawrence, and— to drive across. These islands are located sand dunes, which take almost two hours six ofwhich are joinedbyof alongstrip islands, seven ofwhich are inhabited, and Madeleine) are anarchipelago ofadozen of theprovince aswell. within Anglophone Canadabut intherest ofQuebec,with thisbeautifulpart notjust soon tolearn, many peopleare unfamiliar ternational fl because shethoughtIwas takinganin- early 2.5hours I shouldbeat theairport Magdalen Islands, my travel agent toldme Magdalen Islands The Magdalen Islands(orÎlesdela When Iwas bookingmy fl away, ight—from Toronto. As Iwas and closer geographically Story by DianaBallon, photos by RickEckely ight tothe Islands boast beachesandmore to P a hill. Here there are few trees and many in villages, othertimes standing aloneatop everywhere, sometimesclustered together low, pink, green –that dotthelandscape houses -purple, aquamarine, yel- bright am enamoured oftheislands’ colourful cause Iappreciate wideopenspacesand astheeyeout asfar cansee. are sandy beaches, withdunes stretching of theislands’ 385kilometres ofcoastline seal; orifyou like thebeach. Sixtypercent and enjoy fresh seafood, localcheeses and kayak orswim incaves; ifyou are afoodie, you are anature lover, andlike tohike, bike, them adistinctfeature inQuebec. Comeif unique geography andlocation make via afi ontheislands,bec Citytoanairport or easily by fl I camefor allthesereasons, but alsobe- But theyare quiteaccessible—most .E.I. andNova Scotia. ve-hour ferry from Souris,ve-hour ferry P

ying through orQue- Beach ripe for clam digging near Auberge la Salicorne la Auberge near digging clam for ripe Beach .E.I. Their that are such afeature oftheislands. by theoceancurrentandstrong winds red cliffsrusty withnatural caves formed Reserve, and ahaven for birdwatchers. A 724-hectare East Point National Wildlife a nature interpretation trail onthenearby by Boudreau Islandandhiking. swimming incaves, “clay bathing” onnear- can doyoga, go clam digging, kayaking, teller). andmany activities. From here you a weekly singerandafi evening (which entertainment includes lies becauseofitsall-inclusive packages, auberge isaperfect placetostay for fami- alongthechain.heading northeast The Entrée, which isthelastislandyou reach [www.salicorne.ca]corne onGrande We at ourtrip the started Auberge laSali- Wildlife, lobster and dunes THE NORTH: We didaguidedhike alongL’Échouerie, semn story- shermen/ 25 • Hamilton FY • SEPTEMBER 2018 rst rst er ff shermen and shing portshing and an y to fl View www. View hours andve fi CTMA Cruises o CTMA Cruises rst settled, and until the and until rst settled, Both Air Canada Jazz Car ferries from Souris, from Car ferries car is l’Anse à la Cabane light- car is l’Anse à la Cabane This narrow strip of land next to a har- to strip of land next narrow This Chez Denis Auberge Just off the strip is an eight-day cruise, departing cruise, an eight-day fromoperates that Montreal from www. See 7. September June 15 to more for croisieresctma.ca/en/ information. visit? Planning a tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/en/ By car: about take P.E.I. ahead. so reserve early, book up By plane: Aviation and Pascan airport on Havre-aux-Maisons, By cruise ship: If You Go: If You South islands: Tranquil, forested forested Tranquil, South islands: and sprawling in the southern portionAubert of Havre feel, quieter has a distinctly the islands fi the island where and is the settled. Here la Grave (meaning pebble (meaning pebble la Grave Here settled. a historical site in designated beach), La Grave attraction. is the feature 1983, of the islands, ‘port d’entrée” the was people fi where and heart the was of commerce, 1950s, fi places for the gathering coming travellers as other locals as well to the islands. boutiques, many lined with bour is now Stop by galleries and restaurants. cafés, [www.cafedelagrave. Café de la Grave to hear live a former store, general com], with pie and chat seafood enjoy music, in- locals in the same spirit of gathering Ar- And visit the original by settlers. spired [https://artisansdusable. tisans du Sable to learn or sand economuseum, com], of sand on types the 15 different about facts. and other interesting the island, [www.aubergechezdenis.ca], à Francois inn with a laid-back a charming 14-room staying us, For and high end dining. vibe, being hosted in a favourite like was here About 15 minutes house. grandmother’s away by 1870 and around built was which house, with alone, its location a visit for is worth and a fi of a cove, a view cliffs. famous red the Magdalens’ shed oors and a com- Digging for clams Digging for leted and skinned ve minutes from the airport, the airport, from minutes ve The coloured houses from La Grave La houses from coloured The Also on Havre aux Maisons is the glass- Also on Havre also will likely you on the islands, While turned offering extraor- inn—its 11 rooms white and billowy dinary of the sea, views With sleep. a cozy night’s promising duvets fl hardwood high ceilings, this is true of historic and modern, bination fi Only luxury. the most upscale accommoda- and easily get booked rooms tions on the Magdalens, early. so reserve up quickly, the Fro- la Méduse, Verrerie studio, blowing farm working Vent—a magerie du Pied de and Le Fumoir d’Antan, factory, and cheese on the is- smokehouse the last remaining Although herring no longer fi is lands. 30,000 pounds are on the Magdalens, year, each Brunswick New shipped from racks and then hung from in brine, soaked to de- on the ceiling of their smokehouse being fi before hydrate hand. by is which aux Loups, Pointe through drive with island with only the smallest inhabited beaches. 50 houses and great about only L’Étang-du-Nord on the west of the is- on the west L’Étang-du-Nord d’hôte menu their table Choose from of luxuryIn the same standards is the roads, but often with clear views of the wa- views often with clear but roads, light- Borgot stops at ride included The ter. the lovely at lunch to eat and later house, we where Café la Côte, seaside restaurant with a saucehad their delicious mussels cheese. Vent their local Pied de made from de Gros- of the Parc land is the location tours (wind do kayaking you where Cap, a smoked permitting) for and then stop by a microbrew- Tempête, de la L’Abri malt at ery seaside views. with a fun vibe and great we where on L’Étang-du-Nord It is also here Table La had our best dinner of the trip at a cozy house (and former family des Roy, has trans- that and owner) home of its chef formed into upscale restaurant. la mer (sea) or items either from featuring à la carte or an excellent la terre (land), tuna, seared their fresh loved We menu. paella. and seafood lobster ravioli on Couvent Vieux Domaine du nearby convent a 100-year-old aux Maisons, Havre t nd this nd shing boats .E.I. and for the and for .E.I. its more urbanizedits more nd much more to dis- more nd much and ane food fi shermen sorting and off

away from

But step But step Grosse Isle is also the destination of the Isle is also the destination Grosse

Grande Entrée is also the lobster capital Grande The coastline of the reserve is Old Harry coastline of the reserve The

around the island, mostly on secondary mostly the island, around island accessible only by boat. boat. by only island accessible and did a 30-km bike Le Pédalier, at day 10 km trip to Ile d’Entrée, the Magdelan 10 km trip to Ile d’Entrée, will fi and you core, one bikes rented We on this island. cover round ferries to Souris, P ferriesround to Souris, is also the port of entry/departure year- for can also hear live music. Cap Aux Meules Aux Cap music. can also hear live rants, including Les Pas Perdus, where you you where Perdus, Les Pas including rants, The island also has several good restau- good island also has several The a hospital, and a range of places to stay. of places to stay. and a range a hospital, land), with its many businesses and stores, and stores, businesses with its many land), on Cap Aux Meules (or Grindstone Is- Aux on Cap

the Magdalen Islands, you would fi would you Islands, the Magdalen If you were to describe a “downtown” on “downtown” to describea were If you

Urban and rural, Urban and rural, THE MIDDLE ISLANDS: MIDDLE THE on the islands. on the islands. rights of the 700 Anglophones still living Anglophones still living rights of the 700 organization created to protect minority to protect created organization inn luxurious landers (or CAMI), which is a non-profi which landers (or CAMI), the Council of Anglophone Magdalen Is- Anglophone Magdalen the Council of schoolhouse and museum form part and museum ofschoolhouse heartfelt stories about the veterans. The heartfelt the veterans. stories about turned), is well worth a visit, for the guide’s the guide’s for a visit, worth is well turned), Second World War (23 of whom never re- never of whom (23 War World Second landers, or Madelinots, who fought in the fought who or Madelinots, landers, This small museum, honouring the 332 is- small museum, This 1921, and the adjacent Veterans’ Museum. Museum. Veterans’ and the adjacent 1921, one-room Little Red Schoolhouse, built in built Little Red Schoolhouse, one-room and watch the fi and watch Ile, you can wander down to the harbour, to the harbour, down can wander you Ile, restaurant. year. On Cap Dauphin in nearby Grosse Dauphin in nearby On Cap year. Shack the Fish at on lobster rolls gorge taking part in the nine-week season thistaking part in the nine-week and then loading bins of the lobster, of Quebec, with 115 lobster-fi of Quebec, wide-open spaces. der the red cliffs at one end. It’s all about It’s one end. at cliffs der the red but it’s perfect for a long walk and to wan- long walk a for perfect it’s but July, the water is still cold for swimming, swimming, is still cold for the water July, kite surfers and picnickers alike. In early In early alike. kite surfers and picnickers wind, beach and stillness, It’s a haven for a haven It’s and stillness, beach wind, the best beaches in the world. With sand, sand, With the world. in the best beaches that National Geographic named one of Geographic National that Beach, a stunning 8.5 km stretch of sand a stunning 8.5 km stretch Beach,

named the “Bol de Soupe” (or soup bowl). Soupe” “Bol de named the to a large concave indent in the sand aptly indent in the sand aptly to a large concave roots helping to prevent erosion. We came We erosion. helping to prevent roots “the skeleton for our sand dunes,” their our sand dunes,” for “the skeleton how the sparse wisps of beachgrass are the sparse wisps of beachgrass how dunes. Our guide Rosie Rankin explained Our guide Rosie dunes. through stunted forest, and out into open and out forest, stunted through short hike brought us along sandy paths, paths, us along sandy brought short hike