24 • Travel | Magdalen Islands, Quebec SEPTEMBER 2018 • FY Hamilton Beach ripe for clam digging near Auberge la Salicorne Dune-du-Sud or South Dune Magdalen Islands Islands boast beaches and more Story by Diana Ballon, to P.E.I. and Nova Scotia. rusty red cliffs with natural caves formed photos by Rick Eckely But they are quite accessible—most by the ocean current and strong winds easily by fl ying through Montreal or Que- that are such a feature of the islands. When I was booking my fl ight to the bec City to an airport on the islands, or Magdalen Islands, my travel agent told me via a fi ve-hour ferry from Souris, P.E.I. Their THE NORTH: I should be at the airport 2.5 hours early unique geography and location make Wildlife, lobster and dunes because she thought I was taking an in- them a distinct feature in Quebec. Come if We started our trip at the Auberge la Sali- ternational fl ight—from Toronto. As I was you are a nature lover, and like to hike, bike, corne [www.salicorne.ca] on Grande soon to learn, many people are unfamiliar kayak or swim in caves; if you are a foodie, Entrée, which is the last island you reach with this beautiful part of Quebec, not just and enjoy fresh seafood, local cheeses and heading northeast along the chain. The within Anglophone Canada but in the rest seal; or if you like the beach. Sixty per cent auberge is a perfect place to stay for fami- of the province as well. of the islands’ 385 kilometres of coastline lies because of its all-inclusive packages, The Magdalen Islands (or Îles de la are sandy beaches, with dunes stretching evening entertainment (which includes Madeleine) are an archipelago of a dozen out as far as the eye can see. a weekly singer and a fi shermen/ story- islands, seven of which are inhabited, and I came for all these reasons, but also be- teller). and many activities. From here you six of which are joined by a long strip of cause I appreciate wide open spaces and can do yoga, go clam digging, kayaking, sand dunes, which take almost two hours am enamoured of the islands’ colourful swimming in caves, “clay bathing” on near- to drive across. These islands are located houses - purple, aquamarine, bright yel- by Boudreau Island and hiking. far out in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and— low, pink, green – that dot the landscape We did a guided hike along L’Échouerie, despite being a part of Quebec—are so far everywhere, sometimes clustered together a nature interpretation trail on the nearby from the Quebec mainland that they are a in villages, other times standing alone atop 724-hectare East Point National Wildlife time zone away, and closer geographically a hill. Here there are few trees and many Reserve, and a haven for birdwatchers. A 25 • Hamilton FY Hamilton short hike brought us along sandy paths, • South islands: Tranquil, forested SEPTEMBER 2018 through stunted forest, and out into open and sprawling dunes. Our guide Rosie Rankin explained Havre Aubert in the southern portion of how the sparse wisps of beachgrass are the islands has a distinctly quieter feel, “the skeleton for our sand dunes,” their and is the island where the Acadians fi rst roots helping to prevent erosion. We came settled. Here la Grave (meaning pebble to a large concave indent in the sand aptly beach), designated a historical site in named the “Bol de Soupe” (or soup bowl). 1983, is the feature attraction. La Grave The coastline of the reserve is Old Harry was the ‘port d’entrée” of the islands, Beach, a stunning 8.5 km stretch of sand where people fi rst settled, and until the that National Geographic named one of 1950s, was the heart of commerce, and the best beaches in the world. With sand, the gathering places for fi shermen and wind, beach and stillness, It’s a haven for other locals as well as travellers coming kite surfers and picnickers alike. In early to the islands. July, the water is still cold for swimming, This narrow strip of land next to a har- but it’s perfect for a long walk and to wan- bour is now lined with many boutiques, der the red cliffs at one end. It’s all about cafés, galleries and restaurants. Stop by wide-open spaces. Café de la Grave [www.cafedelagrave. Grande Entrée is also the lobster capital com], a former general store, to hear live of Quebec, with 115 lobster-fi shing boats The coloured houses from La Grave music, enjoy seafood pie and chat with taking part in the nine-week season this locals in the same spirit of gathering in- year. On Cap Dauphin in nearby Grosse spired by original settlers. And visit the Ar- Ile, you can wander down to the harbour, tisans du Sable [https://artisansdusable. and watch the fi shermen sorting and off com], or sand economuseum, to learn loading bins of the lobster, and then about the 15 different types of sand on gorge on lobster rolls at the Fish Shack the island, and other interesting facts. restaurant. Just off the strip is Auberge Chez Denis Grosse Isle is also the destination of the à Francois [www.aubergechezdenis.ca], one-room Little Red Schoolhouse, built in a charming 14-room inn with a laid-back 1921, and the adjacent Veterans’ Museum. vibe, and high end dining. For us, staying This small museum, honouring the 332 is- here was like being hosted in a favourite landers, or Madelinots, who fought in the grandmother’s house. About 15 minutes Second World War (23 of whom never re- away by car is l’Anse à la Cabane light- turned), is well worth a visit, for the guide’s house, which was built around 1870 and heartfelt stories about the veterans. The is worth a visit for its location alone, with schoolhouse and museum form part of Digging for clams a view of a cove, and a fi shing port and the Council of Anglophone Magdalen Is- the Magdalens’ famous red cliffs. landers (or CAMI), which is a non-profi t roads, but often with clear views of the wa- turned inn—its 11 rooms offering extraor- organization created to protect minority ter. The ride included stops at Borgot light- dinary views of the sea, and billowy white rights of the 700 Anglophones still living house, and later to eat lunch at the lovely duvets promising a cozy night’s sleep. With on the islands. seaside restaurant Café la Côte, where we high ceilings, hardwood fl oors and a com- If You Go: had their delicious mussels with a sauce bination of historic and modern, this is true By car: Car ferries from Souris, THE MIDDLE ISLANDS: made from their local Pied de Vent cheese. luxury. Only fi ve minutes from the airport, P.E.I. take about fi ve hours and Urban and rural, fi ne food and a L’Étang-du-Nord on the west of the is- and easily the most upscale accommoda- book up early, so reserve ahead. luxurious inn land is the location of the Parc de Gros- tions on the Magdalens, rooms get booked By plane: Both Air Canada Jazz If you were to describe a “downtown” on Cap, where you do kayaking tours (wind up quickly, so reserve early. and Pascan Aviation fl y to an the Magdalen Islands, you would fi nd this permitting) and then stop by for a smoked Also on Havre aux Maisons is the glass- airport on Havre-aux-Maisons, on Cap Aux Meules (or Grindstone Is- malt at L’Abri de la Tempête, a microbrew- blowing studio, Verrerie la Méduse, the Fro- By cruise ship: CTMA Cruises off er land), with its many businesses and stores, ery with a fun vibe and great seaside views. magerie du Pied de Vent—a working farm an eight-day cruise, departing a hospital, and a range of places to stay. It is also here on L’Étang-du-Nord where we and cheese factory, and Le Fumoir d’Antan, from Montreal that operates from The island also has several good restau- had our best dinner of the trip at La Table the last remaining smokehouse on the is- June 15 to September 7. See www. rants, including Les Pas Perdus, where you croisieresctma.ca/en/ for more des Roy, a cozy house (and former family lands. Although herring is no longer fi shed information. can also hear live music. Cap Aux Meules home of its chef and owner) that has trans- on the Magdalens, 30,000 pounds are is also the port of entry/departure for year- formed into upscale restaurant. shipped from New Brunswick each year, Planning a visit? View www. tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/en/ round ferries to Souris, P.E.I. and for the Choose from their table d’hôte menu soaked in brine, and then hung from racks 10 km trip to Ile d’Entrée, the Magdelan featuring items either from la mer (sea) or on the ceiling of their smokehouse to de- island accessible only by boat. la terre (land), or an excellent à la carte hydrate before being fi leted and skinned But step away from its more urbanized menu. We loved their fresh seared tuna, by hand. core, and you will fi nd much more to dis- lobster ravioli and seafood paella. While on the islands, you will likely also cover on this island.