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U niversi^ M ia d ilm s international 300 N. Zeeb Road Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 8410370 Chowdhary, Usha FASHION PROCESS AS RELATED TO MEDIA EXPOSURE, SOCIAL PARTICIPATION, AND ATTITUDE TOWARD CHANGE AMONG COLLEGE WOMEN IN INDIA The Ohio Stale University Ph.D. 1984 University Microfiims I ntern&tion&i 300 N. Zeab Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106 Copyright 1984 by Chowdhary, Usha Aii Rights Reserved PLEASE NOTE: In all cases this material has been filmed in the best possible way from the available copy. Problems encountered with this document have been identified here with a check mark V 1. Glossy photographs or pages. 2. Colored illustrations, paper or _____print 3. Photographs with dark background_____ 4. Illustrations are poor copy______ 5. Pages with black marks, not original copy. 6. Print shows through as there is text on both sides of page, 7. Indistinct, broken or small print on several pages 8. Print exceeds margin requirements______ 9. Tightly bound copy with print lost in spine_______ 10. Computer printout pages with indistinct print 11. Page(s)____________ lacking when material received, and not available from school or author. 12. Page(s)____________ seem to be missing in numbering only as text follows. 13. Two pages numbered ________ . Text follows. 14. Curling and wrinkled pages______ 15. Other________________________________________________________________________ _ University Microfilms International FASHION PBOCESS AS fiilAIEO TO MEDIA EXEOSOBE, SOCIAL PAfiXICIPAIION, AND ATTITUDE TCHABD CHANGE AHCNG COLLEGE NOMEN IN INDIA DISSEBTATIGN Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Bequirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Usha Chowdhary, B.Sc., M.Sc. ***** The Ohio State University 1984 Beading committee: Approved By Dr. Lois £. Dickey Dr. Gisela J. Hinkle Dr. Esther Meacham Adviser Dr. David 0. Hansen Textiles and Clothing © 1984 USHA CHOWDHARY All Rights Reserved ACKHOMIEDGEHEBIS übe author wishes to express her thaaks and apprecia tion toward the contributors in the development and comple tion of the study. Special indebtness is felt toward the following: Or. lois E. Dickey for her constant inspiration, end less help, everwilling guidance and deep concern ex tended throughout the study. Or. Gisela J. Hinkle for her constructive ideas in strengthening the context section and development of the measure on attitude toward change. Or. Esther Meacham for her thoughtful suggestion tc in clude sketches of the Indian fashion items for improve ment in the communicability of the research fcr ncnln- dian readers. Or. David 0. Hansen for his positive motivation, help ful ideas and supportive attitude offered over time. Dr. 0. P. Singh, Mrs. P. Punia, Or. Harknandan, Or. P. Sundaram, Dr. P. S. Abrol and Mrs. V. Kapoor for their valueable help in data collection. - 11 - All the resposdants foe their willing participation in the study. Hcea Economics Alumni Association (Ihe Ohio State Uni versity) , University Graduate Students Alumni Associa tion (The Ohio State University), and Association of Clcthing Professors for Textiles and Clothing— Central Region for awarding research fellowships during differ ent phases of the study. Haryana Agricultural University for granting study leave. Myriam Velez for her willingness to sketch the Indian fashion items. Mary Rhodes for typing the final dissertation. The author's parents and brothers for taking care of her son for over three years, helping with data collec tion, and being constant source of motivation over time. The author's brother-in-law, H. I. Chowdhary, and his wife S. C. Chowdhary, for their efforts, timely help and encouragement offered to envision their dream come true. The author's husband for acting as an inspirational force to help her accomplish this endeavor, in spite of constraints of his own Ph.D. work; her sen, Abhineet, for living with the frustrations of being away from his - iii - parents and tearing the consequences; and daughter, Neha, who was a source of delight to have around even in the strenuous times. - IV - VIIA February 18, 1952 Born# Delhi, India 1972 B.Sc., Home Science,Delhi University, Delhi, India 1974 M.Sc.(Home),M.S. Univer sity, Baroda, India 1974-1980 Assistant Professor, De partment of Clothing and Textiles, I. C. College of Home Science, Haryana Agricultural University, Bissar, Haryana, India 1981-1984 Graduate leaching Associ ate, Ihe Ohio State Uni versity, Columbus, Chio BESIABCH PUBIICAIICNS A Study on Developing and Standardizing the Ease Allowance fcr the Fitted Jackets of Women. Barvana Agricultural Uni versity Journal of Besearch. 1981, 11 (1), 82-86 (with J. A .Singh). - V - changing focus of Textiles and Clothing within Home Econom ics: An Analysis of Two Professional Journals. Textiles and Clothing Besearch Journal, 1984 (with E. Meacham). In addition, nine edited articles have teen published in university publications. flEIDS Of STUDY Hagor Field: Textile and Clothing Minor Field; Sociology - VI - TABLE OF CONTENTS Paye ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS.............. il VITA.................................................... .. LIST OF TABLES . .X LIST OF FIGURES. ....................... xvi CHAPTER I INTRODUCTION ......................... 1 Statement of Problem .......... 4 Definition of Terms ..... ......... ...... 6 Organization of Presentation .......... 7 II REVIEW OF LITERATURE ..... ..................... 8 Contextual Overview: India — A Land of Diversity. .9 Geography......................... .9 Topography .............................. 10 People ....................10 language ............ .......... .12 Government ........... .......... .12 Family .............. 13 Status of Women ............... 14 Women and the Fashion Industry............... 15 Education ........ ...... .............. 16 Means of Livelihood ................ 17 Music and Dance .................... 18 Costumes ........................18 Theoretical Structure: Fashion Process ...... 22 Fashion Diffusion ................... .... 22 Fashion Adoption ............... 29 Media Exposure ............... .44 Social Participation ...... .47 Attitude Toward Change ........... .49 Summary ............. ........... • .51 Statement of Hypotheses .............. 53 - vii - III HETiiOCOLOGY............................. 56 Preliminary Survey ......... .......... .56 Research Design ....... ..... .58 Population and Sample ..............................60 Identification and Development of Measures .... 63 fashion Innovators .............. 63 fashion Opinion Leader. ........... 65 Media Exposure .................. .66 Social Participation ............ .67 attitude Toward change ..................... .68 Demographic Variables. ........... 69 Pretest ...................... 69 Data Collection ................. .72 Data analysis .................. .73 IV SAMPLE DESCRIPTION AMD PRELIMINARY DATA ANALYSIS............................................ 75 Response to Questionnaire ............. 77 Demographic Characteristics of Respondents .... 79 Reliability and Validity of the Instruments Osed tc Measure the Selected Variable. .......... 85 Identification of fashion Innovators, fashion Opinion Leaders and fashion Innovative Communicators. ............................... 89 Identification of fashion Innovators......... 91 Identification of fashion Opinion Leaders . 92 Identification of fashion Innovative communicators. ............... .93 V HYPOTBESIS ŒESIING, SOBSEQUENI ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION.............. 95 fashion Innovativeness. .............. 96 The Explanation of Characteristics of fashion Innovators