Małopolska Customs and Traditions

Małopolska Customs and traditions

Małopolska  8 UNESCO sites  250 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  4 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  250 ski runs www.visitmalopolska.pl

EUROPEAN UNION EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT FUND

Project co-financed by the European Union within the Malopolska Regional Operational Programme 2007–2013 Rejkiawik IS Małopolska Capital of the region: Kraków Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface area of Poland) Population: 3.28 mil. (about 8% of the population of Poland) Landscape: FIN Helsinki  the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl N Oslo S  mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Gorce Sztokholm Tallin EST RUS  foothills – Carpathian Foothills Ryga  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland LV Dublin DK  lowlands – Vistula valley IRL Kopenhaga LT Wilno main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Raba, Skawa, Biała GB RUS  Mińsk NL  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Dobczycki, Londyn BY Amsterdam Klimkówka Berlin Bruksela Warszawa D PL  the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Czarny Staw, the lakes B Kijów L Praga KRAKÓW of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes Paryż Luksemburg UA  the largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km CZ SK Bratysława of corridors, 824 m deep F FL Wiedeń Berno MD Vaduz Budapeszt CH A H Kiszyniów Lublana SLO RO Zagrzeb San Bukareszt Marino HR AND Monako BIH Belgrad P E MC RSM Andora Sarajewo SRB Lizbona I Madryt MNE Soﬁa Priština BG Rzym Podgorica RKS Skopje V Tirana MK Publisher AL Department of Tourism, Sport and Promotion GR TR at The Office of the Marshal of the Małopolska Province Ateny Regional Tourism Information System Team ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków [email protected] M www.visitmalopolska.pl

Text Krzysztof Bzowski

Photos P. Droździk, M. Flis, R. Korzeniowski, J. Michalczak, P. Mierniczak, A. Otrębski, A. Pilch- -Ziobroń, M. Zaręba, D. Zaród, iStockPhoto.com photo archive, UMWM photo archive; R. Kularska-Król (drawing)

Publishing Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922 Wysowa-Zdrój [email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc Cover design, graphic design: PART SA Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser

Kraków 2010, ISBN 978-83-61355-83-0 The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010. MAŁOPOLSKA Customs and traditions

isiting Małopolska is a unique opportunity to see real highlanders wearing their folk costumes: woollen trousers with the embroidered parzenice, a hat with a feather, and the Vcharacteristic shoes called kierpce. One can also ad- mire the rakish Kraków folk costumes with an exquisite peacock feather attached to a red, four-cornered cap, as well as the glistening bodices and flowery skirts. But there is much more to the traditional culture of the region than just folk costumes. There are a number of original religious rituals and customs, which are still cultivated by the locals during important festivals. The legends and tales about the olden days, as well as the mysteries and ghosts, are part of the rich cultural heritage of Małopolska. Other important components of this heritage are local products and original local dishes created with their use.

The still existing folk culture is the strongest expression of the variety of Małopolska, whose every region has its own particular costumes, customs, traditions, dishes and delicates.

fot. D. Zaród folk Folk costumes Everyone must have seen at one point the famous costume of a Cracovian, with a peacock feather proudly attached to a four-cornered cap, or a highlander’s hat rimmed with shells and adorned with a feather. Richly sequined bodices, thick strings of beads, vividly coloured skirts, meticulously embroi- costumes dered parzenice on the highlander’s trousers… The folk costumes of Małopolska sparkle with boldest colours and amaze with their variety of design and ornamentation. The most famous folk costumes are worn by the Cracovians and the highlanders from Podhale. Very different traditions were cultivated by the Lemkos and the Rusyns from Beskid Sądecki and the Low Beskids. Still different costumes were worn by the highlanders of Spisz, Orawa and Lachów, near Nowy Sącz.

The Cracovians are famous for their costumes. The traditional man’s costume consisted of a white linen shirt and red-striped trousers tucked into high boots. The top was a black or dark navy blue tunic, adorned with red weeds and metal circles, girded with a belt and covered with a long, white, woollen russet coat with a red-weed pattern. The costume was complete with a celender hat, a woollen ma- gierka cap or the characteristic red-cornered cap with a peacock feather and colourful ribbons. Wom- en, in turn, used to wear a white embroidered blouse and a black or navy blue bodice, which was the most ornamental element of the costume – adorned with wide, colourful ribbons, buttons and fan- cywork. They would put on a flowery skirt and a white embroidered tulle apron on a white petticoat, and high boots on their feet. The costume of a married woman was complete with shawls, whereas maidens appeared with their hair uncovered and arranged in a long plait.

The Lendians inhabit a major part of the Beskids and the area around Nowy Sącz in particular. Their costume is very original, although not very well known – it combines elements of the Kraków and the highlander costumes. It is characterised by its ornamental richness. Men used to wear navy blue trousers and embroidered tunics with numerous brass bosses and coloured woollen weeds. Underneath, they wore a white shirt girded with a wide highlander-style leather belt, or sometimes with a highlander’s stud. Women wore velvet bodices and skirts, usually of navy blue colour.

The Lemkos from the Low Beskids and the Nowy Sącz area created a completely different costume. Men wore the so called czucha – a long, brown linen overcoat with a characteristic fringed back collar. Underneath, they used to put on a short navy blue waistcoat, a white shirt and white trousers. Women, in turn, would wear thin white shirts with colourful embroideries around the collar and the cuffs, navy blue or black bodices with embroidered flower-patterns. The percale skirts were dark and decorated with vertically arranged colourful ribbons. The last component of their costume were kierpce shoes.

An ornament of the Lendian costume, photo by P. Droździk The costume of the Lendians from Podegrodzie, photo by P. Droździk Cracovians, photo by D. Zaród

2 3 folk costumes

The highlanders from Podhale, who live at the foot of the Tatra Mountains, are very proud of their beautiful traditional costume. That is why Podhale is the place where folk costumes are so commonly seen. And a marvellous sight it is, too! Women wear meticulously crafted flat leather shoes (known as kierpce), colourful skirts with a linen apron and a petticoat underneath. A linen shirt with white embroidery is covered with a red or black velvet bodice, often adorned with coloured embroidery presenting a carline or a Turk’s cap lily. Finally, there are the obligatory thick strings of beads and a sheepskin coat for when it gets cold. Men put on a white shirt with an ornamental metal collar stud and a waistcoat called gunia or a loose woollen jacket known as cucha – both ornamentally embroidered. A wide leather belt, which used to serve as a pocket for pistols, holds up the white cloth trousers with a black stripe and the decorative embroideries called parzenice. The costume is complete with the leather kierpce, a cane called ciupaga and a black felt hat adorned with shells and a feather.

The highlanders from Pieniny wear a white shirt, a glaring-blue, richly embroidered waistcoat and the traditional white trousers with parzenice. The last necessary element of the costume is a black hat with a little strap imitating a string of shells. In the past, highlanders also used to put on a white or brown embroidered cucha as an overgarment. The traditional woman’s costume was similar to those worn in other regions. Its characteristic elements included a white shirt with a large embroidered collar, a black or red bodice, a flowery skirt, embroidered aprons and the kierpce shoes.

Babiogórcy, the highlanders from the area around Zawoja, used to wear white trousers with much more modest parzenice and brown, knee-long gunie, worn as an overgarment. Women wore navy blue skirts with a little white pattern and the so-called jadwiśka – a close-fitting jacket. On the other side of the Babia Góra mountain, in Orawy, women used to wear elbow-sleeved blouses with a wide lace frill around the cuff and neckline. They also gladly put on bodices and skirts made of the same flower-patterned material. Here men also wore white trousers with parzenice, as well as a black waistcoat with white buttons and a brown gunia.

The highlanders from Spisz, also known as Spiszacy, live east of Podhale. Their costumes vary Kierpce shoes, photo by P. Droździk a lot, even from village to village. However, they used to wear white trousers with parzenice, a waist- Highlanders, UMWM photo archive coat and a russet coat here as well. Women and girls wore white tops (whose sleeves were often em- Highlanders, photo by P. Droździk broidered) and the characteristic bodices with U-shaped necklines. High-top boots were generally An element of the Highlanders’ costume, photo by P. Droździk preferred to kierpce.

4 5 Regional traditions

Regional traditions

Lajkonik – the famous Kraków hero on a hobby horse – is one of the most recognisable symbols of Małopolska. Its popularity is partly due to the annual march from the district of Zwierzyniec to the Market Square, which takes place eight days after Corpus Christi. A red-legged bearded man holding a mace rides a colourful horse down the main streets of the city. Everyone who gives him money re- ceives a pat on the head, which is believed to bring luck for the whole year. Even though nowadays Lajkonik is seen as a funny character in disguise, the origins of the tradition date back to the Tatar invasions, which in the 13th century reached as far as Kraków.

Hejnał mariacki (also known as the Heynal) is another beautiful and still cultivated tradition, which has its origins in the Tatar invasions. Every hour in the highest tower of St. Mary’s Church (kościół Mariacki) in Kraków, a fireman plays on a trumpet the characteristic melody in all four directions, with the last tune in- variably interrupted. Legend has it that when the Tatar warriors were approaching the city, they were only spotted by one bugler-fireman. He blew his trumpet, but he never managed to finish the melody, as he died pierced with a Tatar arrow…

Koronka z Bobowej (Lace from Bobowa) – Lace-making is one of the most beautiful handicraft traditions of Małopolska. For some years now, Bobowa has specialised in the difficult process of the production of bobbin lace, which is more subtle and prettier than the more commonly manufactured crochet lace. The artistry and ingenuity of the local lacemakers is so impressive that people come to Bobowa to take part in lace-making workshops. The town also organises the annual Lace Festival in Bobowa.

Szopka Krakowska (Kraków nativity cribs) – Kraków is famous for its extraordinary tradition of building nativity cribs (the so called szopki krakowskie). The tradition dates back to the late 19th century and was started by the brick-layers from the suburbs of Kraków, who in the wintertime had to look for alternative jobs. Since the 1930s, the city has organised an annual competition of nativity cribs on Lajkonik, photo by R. Korzeniowski the first Thursday of December. The event is held under the patronage of the Historical Museum of Kraków nativity cribs, photo by D. Zaród Kraków. On a foggy morning, the participants bring their works to the monument of Adam Mickie- Lace from Bobowa, UMWM photo archive wicz in the Main Square. All cribs need to contain elements of Kraków’s historic architecture. They are A Kraków nativity crib, photo by M. Zaręba later on exhibition at the Historical Museum.

6 7 Regional traditions

The contest for the most beautifully painted cottage is organised each year in Zalipie on the first Sunday after Corpus Christi. It is therefore worth visiting this little village near Dąbrowa Tar- nowska on that particular day. Zalipie is known for its over one-hundred-year-old tradition of decorating houses with colourful flower patterns against white background. The murals cover the walls of houses, outbuildings (even wells and kennels!), as well as the interiors of rooms, domestic applianc- es and furniture. The women of Zalipie also craft embroidered costumes, bedcovers, tablecloths and many other decorations. Thanks to the above-mentioned contest, it is possible to keep up the old tradition not only in Zalipie, but also in the neighbouring villages.

Redyk – a festive march of shepherds and their flocks – sets out in the spring from the villages of Podhale. As winter was coming to an end and the grazing lands were turning green, senior shepherds (known as ba- cowie) together with their helpers (called juhasi) gathered all the sheep and set off towards mountain pas- tures. The grazing period began on 23 April and continued until 29 June. The most important march had its beginning in the sanctuary of Gaździna Podhala in Ludźmierz. Nowadays, every year on 23 April the sanctuary organises the Feast of the Senior Shepherds (Święto Bacowskie). Another famous redyk takes place in Jaworki. The march is organised in July and is accompanied by a number of events, competitions and food tastings. Another interesting reference to the sheep-grazing tradition is the Oscypek Cheese Trail. It con- nects 31 shepherd’s huts, where the oscypek (sheep’s cheese), as well as other delicacies – such as bryndza, bundz, the żentyca whey and redykołki cheeses – are regularly manufactured. Food products made from ewe’s milk can be bought directly from the baca in various shelters along the Trail.

The trail leads through a number of shepherd’s huts in the Tatras, including those in Kuźnice, Kalatówki, Droga pod Reglami in Zakopane, in the Chochołowska and Kościeliska valleys, as well as on the Rusinowa Glade. More of them can be found in Podhale: Bustryk, Baligówka, Leśnica, Gliczarów Górny, Biały Dunajec, Nowy Targ (near the airport), Ratułów, Murzasichle, Brzegi and Białka Tatrzańska near Kotelnica; in Gorce: on the Hala Długa by Turbacz, in Zorymbek Wyżny, Kowaniec, as well as in Konin (north of Gorce); in Pieniny: Czorsztyn and Jaworki; in Spisz: Dursztyn, Łapsze Wyżne and Niżne; in Orawa: Zubrzyca Górna by Babia Góra; and in Beskid Sądecki (Wierchomla). Painted flowers – Zalipie, photo by D. Zaród Redyk, UMWM photo archive More information about the trail can be found on: /www.tatry.pl. For some amusing trivia A painted cottage in Zalipie, UMWM photo archive about the production of the oscypek, go to: /www.oscypek.wrotamalopolski.pl.

8 9 Regional Calendar of selected local events Event Location Date Website Description attractions include: carol-singing competition, dancing Bukowina Highlander’s Carnival February www.domludowy.pl shows, traditional highland dance competition, sleigh Tatrzańska traditions races (kumoterki) attractions include: performances of regional bands Great Tatra May Picnic Zakopane 1–3 May www.tatry.pl (Tatra Children Regional Band Festival), redyk, display of smiths’ and carpenters’ skills Blossoming Apple Tree www.swieto.lacko. a traditional event in Łącko (centre of the great orchard Łącko first half of May Festival org.pl region), presentation of the local folklore and customs event organised by the Kraków Museum of Archaeo- Kraków Archaeology logy: history-themed meetings, presentations of scen- Kraków-Branice end of May www.ma.krakow.pl Picnic es from the olden days, fight performances, archaeology workshops festival celebrating the local tradition of folk toys; best Folk Toys Festival Stryszawa May/June www.stryszawa.pl folk toy competition, folk band performances picnic organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum, www.muzeum.wie- Salt Festival Wieliczka beginning of June outdoor salt-mining presentations, craftsmen’s works- liczka.pl hops, sale of salt-made souvenirs in jatka solna, etc. a great outdoor event referring to the tradition of the www.wianki.kra- Wreaths Kraków end of June feast of St. John the Baptist: St. John’s fair, outdoor con- kow.pl certs, wreath competition a series of outdoor folklore events, including: a march Tatra Summons July – beginning of of the highland robbers (Harnasiowy Korowód), a stag- the Tatra District www.tatry.pl (Tatrzańskie Wici) September ing of a traditional highlander wedding, competitions for shepherds, Miss Highlander contest, etc. International Children’s Regional Bands Festival a week-long review of bands from all over the world Nowy Sącz end of July www.mcksokol.pl (Highlander Children’s with an inaugural march of all participants Feast) an event that attracts the Lemkos from around the Lemko Watch Fire third or fourth week www.lemkounion. Zdynia world: concerts, workshops, exhibitions and meetings (Łemkowska Watra) of July republika.pl celebrating the Lemko culture and tradition Story-Telling Festival Bukowina competitions in story-telling, contests for instrumen- mid-August www.domludowy.pl (Sabałowe Bajania) Tatrzańska talists, singers, groomsmen and masters of ceremonies International Festival Zakopane last week of August www.mffzg.pl a great competition for international folklore groups of Highland Folklore Babia Góra attractions include: performances by local bands, wel- Autumn Festival Zawoja end of September www.zawoja.pl coming the redyk on its way back from mountain pas- (Jesień Babiogórska) tures, handicraft and folk art market

Folk Toys Festival in Stryszawa, photo by P. Droździk

10 11 Legends LegendS The long and vivid history of Małopolska found its expression in dozens of interesting legends. Some are based on authentic events from the region’s dim and distant past, and some on totally invented stories, whose origins date back to folk beliefs and even primeval pagan traditions. Legends and folk tales account for the meanings of the names of local places, as they talk about distant times when villages and towns were only beginning to emerge. A number of legends explain the origins of bizarre monadnocks, which are a common sight in Małopolska. There are also folk tales devoted to the lives of the local saints and blesseds.

Of prince Krakus and the terrible dragon. The most famous local legend tells the story of prince Krakus, the legendary founder of the city, and the terrible dragon that lived in a cave in the Wawel hill. The beast used to devour cattle and whenever his portion was refused, it would hunt for people instead. Nobody was able to face it, not even the brave sons of Krakus. One day, a shrewd shoemaker named Skuba stuffed ram’s fur with sulphur and put it outside the dragon’s cave. When the beast de- voured the “ram”, a fire immediately started in his viscera. The dragon wanted to put it out with the water from Vistula, but having drunk too much of it, he soon burst into little pieces. (A different version of the legend presents prince Krakus himself as the conqueror of the dragon.)

Of the knights turned into pigeons. This interesting legend explains the origins of the pigeons pop- ulating Kraków’s market place. When the princely throne was taken over by Henry IV Probus, he desired to set out to Rome and collect a royal crown. As he did not have the money, one witch offered to help him. She transformed his knights into a flock of pigeons, but promised that they would recover their human form when the prince returns with the crown. The pigeons pecked the stones from the market place, which then turned into golden coins. The prince, however, feasted away all the money on the way to Rome and never eventually reached the destination… His knights-turned-pigeons to this day await their prince in Kraków’s Market Square.

Of Kinga’s ring. For hundreds of years salt has been extracted from beneath the ground in the Kraków area, i.e. in Wieliczka and Bochnia. Where do these deposits of salt come from? The answer to this ques- tion is contained in a beautiful local legend. When the Hungarian queen Kinga (also known as Cunegun- da) was to come to Kraków in order to marry prince Bolesław V the Chaste, she decided to offer her new homeland a precious gift. She dropped her engagement ring into a Hungarian salt mine. When she arrived in Małopolska, she ordered the workers to dig in the place of the future Wieliczka salt mine (or the one in Bochnia, as another version of the legend has it). Much to the surprise of all the people present, a block of salt with Kinga’s ring inside it was extracted from the ground. This is how the queen offered her new subjects an abundance of salt.

Of the Peasants’ King. Legend has it that Casimir III the Great used to wander around villages disguised as a poor man in order to learn about the life of his poorest subjects. One day, the tattered wanderer was received by a poor but friendly host. The peasant complained that he could not find anybody who would agree to be his child’s godfather, so the “pauper” volunteered. They arranged to meet the following day to go to the church together. The next morning, the king appeared together with his illustrious entourage in front of the cabin. The astounded host recognised the king as his yesterday’s guest. The king kept his prom- ise: he became godfather to the child and offered the infant a pouch full of golden coins.

Of the sleeping Tatra knights. When one looks at Tatra Mountains from Zakopane, one of the most recognisable shapes is the majestic figure of the Giewont mountain. It looks very much like a silhouette of a sleeping man. According to the legend, this person is a sleeping knight or a king, whose squad lies Wawel Dragon, drawing by R. Kularska-Król under a spell somewhere in the secret caves underneath the mountain. When evil prevails in the world (or Wieliczka – salt figures, UMWM photo archive when Poland finds itself in serious danger), Giewont will awake together with his squad and start fighting.

12 13 The festive Easter Easter, the celebration of the resurrection of Jesus Christ, is the oldest and most important Christian festival. The way people celebrate Easter today owes a lot to the dozens of customs, traditions and rituals, some of which have their origins in pre-Christian beliefs. As Easter always falls on the first Sun- Małopolska day after the first spring full moon, many of its customs and rituals are connected with the passage from winter to spring.

Palm Sunday falls on the week preceding Easter and commemorates Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem. On that day, believers go to church carrying palms and bouquets of catkins, which are not only a reminder of the events described in the Gospel, but also an expression of the old folk- tales about the spring rebirth and renewal. For that reason, Palm Sunday also used to be referred to as Flower Sunday or Willow Sunday. On that day, boys with their faces blackened with soot (called Pucheroki) wearing their sheepskin coat inside out and conical hats decorated with colourful tissue, walk around in the morning down the streets of certain villages near Kraków (such as Zielonki, Bibi- ce and Tomaszowice). The boys sing songs, wish others a happy Easter and are given pocket money or Easter delicacies in return. This custom dates back to the old tradition of Cracovian students who used to go around the townsmen’s flats.

The Holy Week begins after Palm Sunday and represents the time of awaiting Easter. Each day has its own particular religious significance and symbolism, which is why a lot of believers visit the church on each of those days. The Sanctuary of the Tomb of Jesus in Miechów is famous for its excep- tionally ceremonious celebration of the Holy Week. On Palm Sunday, a procession with Christ riding a donkey is performed; on Tuesday there is a special procession of the Stations of the Cross around the town centre; the Good Friday procession marches along the cloisters of the monastery of the order of the Holy Sepulchre.

The Passion plays in the sanctuary in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska attract great numbers of pilgrims and tourists. The celebration begins with a staging of Christ’s triumphant entry into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. On the evening of Holy Wednesday, one can watch the dramatic version of the pilgrims’ entry into the temple, Judas’ betrayal and the conference of the Sanhederin. Among the events com- memorated on Maundy Thursday are: the ritual of washing the disciples’ feet, a procession to Geth- semane, the capture of Christ by the guards and the disciples’ escape to the palace of Caiaphas. The Biblical story continues on Good Friday, when the ongoing performance comes to an end with Christ being sentenced to crucifixion. What follows are the traditional Stations of the Cross. Less spectacu- lar, but also worth mentioning, are the Passion plays staged in the Bernardine monastery in Alwernia.

Passion play in Kalwaria, photo by P. Mierniczak Easter palms in Lipnica Murowana, UMWM photo archive

14 15 The festive Małopolska

Easter eggs are traditionally prepared before Easter. The egg shells are first dyed using natural meth- ods and then decorated in a variety of designs. There are workshops organised for those who wish to learn about some of the traditional techniques of decorating. Such classes can be attended, among other places, in Stryszawa (www.stryszawa.pl).

Holy Saturday, the last day of the Lent and the eve of Easter Sunday, is the time of joyful anticipa- tion, when believers go to church to attend the ritual of the blessing of the foods (called święconka) prepared for the festive Easter meal, which they carry in special little wicker baskets. Among the necessary components of every Easter basket are Easter eggs (a symbol of new life) and a lamb made of sugar or dough, which symbolises the martyred Christ. Most people also add a slice of all kinds of specially prepared ham, a pinch of salt and a slice of bread.

Easter Sunday begins with a festive breakfast, during which all the delicacies from the blessed basket are served. Consuming the blessed foods is a reference to the new life granted by the resur- rected Christ. Among the traditional specialties served during dinner are the whey-based rye soup (żurek), horseradish soup and cream-stained beetroot soup based on smoked bacon stock and served with white sausage.

Wet Monday (also known as Śmigus-Dyngus) is celebrated on the day following Easter Sunday, when girls were traditionally in danger of being sprinkled with water by the lurking boys. This tradition dates back to the pagan rituals connected with the symbolic spring act of cleansing of dirt and disease. Another Easter Monday tradition is Siuda Baba, a man dressed as a woman – with a pota- to-rosary in his hands and his face blackened with soot – who roams the environs of Wieliczka. He walks around churches accompanied by a soot-black gypsy with a whip. This tradition has its roots in the legend about the pagan temple of the goddess Leda in Lednica Górna near Wieliczka. The holy fire burning in the temple was sustained by a priestess performing her duties for the whole year. Af- ter one year elapsed, she went from house to house, her face black with soot, looking for a virgin who could replace her. Nowadays, Siuda Baba also looks for girls, who then have to buy themselves out Easter tradition, photo by P. Droździk with a coin and a kiss, which involves being smeared with soot… Easter table, photo by M. Flis Easter eggs, photo from iStockphoto.com

16 17 The festive Małopolska

Christmas One of Christianity’s most important festivals, Christmas is celebrated on 25 and 26 December in com- memoration of the birth (or incarnation) of Jesus Christ. In the Polish tradition, it is probably the most beautiful festival with the most special family atmosphere. There are a number of irreplaceable customs and traditions, such as putting up an elaborately decorated Christmas tree, sharing the wafer, exchanging wishes, carol-singing and presenting one another with gifts.

Christmas tree is the most important decoration of the Christmas period. It is usually adorned with colourful glass balls and paper chains. Before the sun sets on Christmas Eve, people put out gifts for the family, which, according to the local tradition, are brought by an Angel rather than the Santa Claus, like in the rest of the country.

The Christmas Eve supper is a special meal, during which one can eat certain rare vegetarian dishes served only on that day of the year. Traditionally, there should be no less than twelve dishes. Among the most commonly served dishes are: Ukrainian-style beetroot soup with mushroom-stuffed ravioli, dried mushroom soup, fried carp (preferably the so-called karp zatorski), sauerkraut with chickpeas and mushroom. The most traditional desserts are poppy seed with mixed dried fruit and nuts, dump- lings with poppy seed, stewed dried fruit and different cakes.

Carol-singing is another tradition closely connected with Christmas. Carols are sung at home and in church. One can also listen to performances of dressed-up carollers who go from house to house. Among the masquaraders are usually carollers disguised as a turoń (a strange character with the head of a ram or a goat), Father Christmas (walking at the front with a big star cut out from paper), the Magi, a Jew, a Gypsy woman and musicians… Their singing is rewarded by small sums of money. If they do not get any, they often misbehave!

Pasterka is a festive mass celebrated on the midnight between 24th and 25th December. It is one of Kraków’s Main Square – A Christmas fair, the crucial moments of Christmas celebrations. The residents of Kraków traditionally went to the city’s photo by M. Zaręba most important church – St. Mary’s Basilica in the Market Square. Christmas decorations, photo by M. Zaręba Christmas tree, photo by A. Pilch-Ziobroń

18 19 Events and festive traditions The festive Festival Event Description Place Date March/April It is a good opportunity to buy some Easter delicacies, such as spon- Kraków (Market Easter Easter Market (a week before ge cakes and different flavour mazurek cakes Square) Easter) Małopolska The event is organised as part of the Małopolska Festival of Taste. The March/April Easter Trail many culinary attractions include: trying the Easter whey-based rye Easter Kraków (a week before of Małopolska soup (żurek), horseradish soup, different-style Easter eggs, sausages Easter) (wiejska, krakowska, myśliwska), honey and liqueurs The competition attracts crowds, while the record-breaking palms, Tallest palm March/April Easter decorated with colourful ribbons, green flowers and twigs, someti- Lipnica Murowana competition (Palm Sunday) mes reach the height of 30 metres One can see a figure of donkey-riding Christ on a wooden pram du- March/April Easter Palm Baby Jesus Tokarnia ring a procession which marches across the village of Tokarnia (Palm Sunday) A festival of classical music, devoted to famous baroque composers March/April Easter “Misteria Paschalia” Kraków and strictly connected with the Holy Week and Easter celebrations (Holy Week)

A traditional church fair in remembrance of Christ’s journey to the town Kraków of Emmaus after his resurrection. The stalls outside the Norbertine mo- March/April Easter Emmaus (the district nastery or the Church of the Holy Saviour in Zwierzyniec offer, among (Wet Monday) of Salwator) other things, the characteristic wooden figurines of the swinging Jews

A church fair organised in Kraków near the church of St. Benedict and Kraków March/April Easter Rękawka at the foot of the Krakus Mound. This primeval tradition has pagan (the district (the first Tuesday origins and was connected with a cult of the dead of Podgórze) after Easter) Authors stand next to their works (cribs referring to Kraków’s most recognisable monuments, made of paper, cardboard and wood) on the Kraków’s most steps of the statue of Adam Mickiewicz in the Market Square. They Kraków (Market The first Thursday Christmas beautiful crib then march down to the Krzysztofory Palace, where the jury crowns Square) of December competition the three-day event with announcing the winners of the competition. All the cribs remain on display until the end of January A fair during which you can buy various Christmas decorations, gifts Kraków (Market Christmas Christmas Fair December and Christmas Eve delicacies Square) Małopolska’s This festival of Christmas dishes and delicacies is a great opportunity Kraków (market Christmas December Christmas Eve Trial to taste all the traditional culinary specialities of the region square) This small and intimate thematic event centres around angels. Its major Angel in Town Christmas attractions include: a traditional handicraft fair, a bygone country skills Lanckorona mid-December Festival workshop, artistic performances, concerts and visual arts exhibitions Podhale Carol The competition cultivates the tradition of the wandering carol-sing- Christmas and Winter Song Nowy Targ mid-December ers and is a great occasion to listen to beautiful Christmas songs Competition

Lanckorona, photo by A. Otrębski

20 21 The best way to start exploring the taste of Małopolska is by trying its internationally famous smoked Local cheese called oscypek. Crisp and subtle, redolent of specially selected wood and mountain meadows, oscypek is made from ewe’s milk and is only manufactured in the Polish mountains. You also cannot miss bryndza podhalańska, a fresh soft cheese with a characteristically pungent flavour. delicacies A lot of original dishes and foodstuffs traditionally come from Kraków itself. During a visit to the capital of Małopolska, one has to taste the Kraków-style żurek and beetroot soup. Local bakers special- ise in making ring-shaped, poppy-seed and salt covered obwarzanki and little golden crispy pretzels. The former are seen by many as one of the symbols of Kraków. Chleb prądnicki (“prądnicki” bread) is less known, although it has been baked since the 15th century, and a genuine loaf of such bread is one metre long and weights in excess of 10 kg! Other specialities of Kraków include delicious cakes and bagels from Kazimierz – rolls with a distinct hole in the middle, sprinkled with nigella, caraway, poppy seed and salt.

Original bakery goods are not only Kraków’s speciality. Every gourmet will also appreciate jodłownicki kołacz z serem (ring-shaped cake with cheese), the crumble-topped Jurassic kołacz or the oblong wheat bun called kukiełka lisiecka. A good way to satisfy your hunger is to try the quern bread from Łomna or Jurassic bread, which remains fresh for a long time thanks to one of its ingredients – potato flakes.

It is widely known that fresh bread tastes best with honey, when the crust and the soft inside of the bread become soaked with sweetness originating from mountain apiaries. This is where the best honeydew honey is produced (the regions of Małopolska and Sądecczyzna).

Traditional local products also include salt from Wieliczka, ice-cream from Nowy Targ or the famous and healthy balsam kapucyński (Capuchin balm). As regards cheese and dairy products, one should mention (alongside oscypek and bryndza) such delicacies as: redykołek (smoked cheese in the shape of animals, a heart or a spindle), żentyca (whey made of ewe’s milk), ser gazdowski (the so called gołka, pucok or kara; cheese made exclusively of cow’s milk) and bundz (mild, nutty and slightly sour loaf-shaped cheese).

As far as drinks are concerned, worth mentioning are the local alcoholic beverages, which include plum vodkas called śliwowica łącka and śliwowica wyborna, as well as the mountain ash based jarzębiak izdebnicki and the sweet jarzębinka.

Among the most interesting varieties of cured meat is kiełbasa lisiecka (“lisiecka” sausage), produced in Liszki and Czernichów near Kraków. It is made of top-quality pork and smoked over aromatic smoke from specially selected fruit tree wood. Other regional delicacies include Zator goose carcasses and lamb meat from the Podhale.

You should also try fruit and vegetables, such as: “charsznicka“ sour cabbage, “Piękny Jaś“ butter bean from the Dunajec valley, “łukowicka“ and “suska sechlońska“ prunes and the traditional varieties of apples from Raciechowice and Łącko.

Finally, a very special delicacy: the “zatorski carp“ from the neighbourhood of Zator, where it has been bred since the 12th century in the numerous ponds of the Carp Valley. Bryndza, photo by M. Flis Kraków pretzels, photo by M. Flis Oscypek, photo by P. Droździk

22 23 Local Recipes Pierogi Dough: 50 dag flour, 1 egg, 1.5 dag butter, 250 ml hot water, pinch of salt delicacies Stuffing (pierogi may have different stuffings. They taste delicious with fruit – for example with strawberries and blueberries – but gourmets also love pierogi in the savoury version, with cabbage and mushrooms, meat or, as shown below, buckwheat and bundz cheese): 25 dag bundz cheese, 25 dag buckwheat, 2 onions, 1.5 dag lard, 10 dag bacon, salt, pepper, marjoram Prepare the stuffing: Cook the buckwheat loose, add fork-crushed cheese and thinly sliced bacon fried in onion. Add salt, pepper, marjoram and then stir it all. Prepare the dough: Mix flour, half the amount of water and melted butter. Add egg and knead the dough, gradually adding water. Roll out the dough and cut it into circles. Put a portion of the stuffing on each circle, then stick together the edges of the dough. Cook pierogi for 8 minutes in boiling, salted water. Charsznicki bigos 2 kg fresh white cabbage, 2 kg charsznicka-style sauerkraut, 1 l concentrated bouillon made of smoked ribs, 1 kg pork or game, 50 dag myśliwska sausage, 50 dag smoked bacon, several dried forest mushrooms, 30 dag onion, 50 dag winey apples (Antonovka or russet), prunes, allspice, black pepper (not ground), salt, bay leaf, caraway, juniper, thyme, marjoram, 0.5 l dry red wine Add chopped fresh cabbage and sauerkraut to the bouillon together with peeled and diced apples. Meat for bigos can be baked or boiled. The sausage needs to be chopped. Meat needs to be fried with smoked bacon and chopped onion. Cut mushrooms (preferably steeped the day before) and boil gently. Then add meat, sausage and mushrooms to the bouillon, cabbage and sauerkraut. Season with herbs and salt and stew everything together for 2–3 hours. Throughout the stewing process, add little portions of wine. (The whole process may take a few days if you stew bigos for 1–2 hours every day and store it in a cold place, or even in the freezer, in-between the stewing sessions. Bigos is ready to eat on the first day, but the more we stew it, the better it tastes!) Moskole 1 kg potatoes, 1 glass buttermilk or sour milk, ½ kg flour, salt Boil potatoes in their jackets, peel and grind them. Add flour, buttermilk and salt to taste. Knead the dough, roll it out and shape oval centimetre-thick clumps. Bake gently on a tray or fry in a deeper pan. Best served with garlic butter, bundz cheese or bryndza cheese. Kołacz jodłownicki Dough: 35 dag flour, 0.33 l milk, 10 dag fat, salt, sugar, 2 dag yeast Cheese substance: 20 dag cottage cheese (twaróg), 3 eggs, 3 spoonfuls sugar, 1 spoonful potato flour, raisins, aroma Prepare the cheese substance: mix minced cottage cheese with sugar, eggs and flour. Prepare the dough: make a leaven of yeast, warm milk and part of the flour. Leave it on the side to ma- ture and double its size. Then add the rest of the flour, sugar and salt. Knead the dough once again and shape a round 3–4 cm thick clump, slightly thicker round the edges. Spread the cheese substance Pierogi, photo by M. Zaręba over it and add raisins. Bake at 190°C for 40–50 minutes. Moskole, photo by M. Zaręba Kołacz jodłownicki, UMWM photo archive Specialities of The Benedictines, photo by P. Droździk

24 25 Calendar of culinary events Event Place Date Website Description Local Kraków, Tar- nów, Nowy Małopolska Festi- Sącz, Miechów, www.smak.malopol- a fair and a competition for the best traditional, local and val of Taste – June–July Oświęcim, ska.pl ecological products and dishes semi-final fairs delicacies Zakopane or Nowy Targ Easter Taste a week be- www.smak.malopol- a fair of Easter dishes and delicacies; runs parallel to Easter Kraków of Małopolska fore Easter ska.pl Market in the Market Square Blossoming beginning of an aviation picnic connected with artistic performances Łososina Dolna www.lososina.pl Orchards Festival May and air shows a presentation of local cuisines and traditional fruit prod- Blossoming Ap- beginning of www.swieto.lacko. Łącko ucts, particularly the famously strong plum vodka, called ple-Tree Festival May org.pl śliwowica łącka a presentation of the crop as well as the cultural achieve- Fruit Picking www.owocobranie.la- Łącko May ments of the region, accompanied by performances by Festival cko.org.pl folklore bands a fair promoting the traditional bakery goods, organised www.smak.malopol- Bread Festival Kraków June together with the semi-final of the Małopolska Festival ska.pl of Taste the area around Rajbrot is a real strawberry capital: appa- Rajbrot Strawber- beginning www.lipnicamurowa- rently this is where the best Polish strawberries grow and Rajbrot ry Festival of June na.pl are made into a variety of specialities, which can be tasted during the festival www.muzeum.wie- an event organised by the Kraków Saltworks Museum: inclu- Salt Festival Wieliczka June liczka.pl des exhibitions, lectures and presentations about salt a presentation of the delicacies manufactured by the Bene- Benedictine second half Kraków www.benedicite.pl dictine monks from Kraków; attractions include competi- Market of June tions, story-telling sessions and a fair one of the many events organised as part of the Carp Val- first half www.okzator.com, ley Festival in Zator (the centre of the valley), where you can Carp Festival Zator of July www.dolinakarpia.org try a variety of dishes made of carp and other fish from the local ponds first half an unmissable opportunity to taste exquisite honeys and Beekeeper’s Feast Stróże www.bartnik.pl of July honey-based products a competition for the best Podhale-style dishes; an oppor- Mountain Victuals Łopuszna mid-July www.tischnerowka.pl tunity to taste various mountain delicacies prepared by the locals Zubrzyca second half an event combining folklore and ethnography, organised by Blueberry Feast www.orawa.eu Górna of July the Orawa Ethnographical Park the area around the villages of Słomniki and Radziemice Małopolska Garlic second half is a traditional place of growing garlic. The garlic festival is Prandocin www.mgck.slomniki.pl Festival of July a great occasion to taste garlic-seasoned dishes, such as garlic soup, pig with garlic, various sausages and salads

Bread Festival, photo by M. Zaręba

26 27 Galician Pot (Ko- second half Nowy Sącz www.sp9.nowysacz.pl culinary competition, tastings and a fair of local products Local ciołek Galicyjski) of July www.bialydunajec. an opportunity to try various specialities made of fresh Trout Festival Biały Dunajec end of July com.pl trout during the best fish dish competition delicacies Feast of Bear, Honey and Poronin mid-August www.poronin.pl honey and honey-based product competition Beekepers a competition for the most delicious pierogi, prepared by Kraków’s restaurateurs. The festival refers to the tradition Pierogi Festival Kraków mid-August of pierogi-making on the feast of the Assumption of the Vir- gin Mary (15 August) Małopolska last weekend www.smak.malopol- Festival of Taste Kraków of August ska.pl – finals as part of the Borzęcin Days celebrations, the local autho- rities organise the best mushroom dish competition de- Borzęcin Feast of last weekend Borzęcin www.borzecin.pl signed for all agrotourism households; the neighbouring Mushroom of August spacious forests are famous for their abundance of edible mushrooms Kraków Honey first half of a festival of beekeepers celebrated in Kraków’s Wolnica Squ- Kraków www.krakow.pl Harvest September are; a fair of apiarian products and lectures first half of a market of local products and a competition for the best Feast of Prune Dobrociesz www.sliwka.iwkowa.pl September dish with prunes this event refers to the orchard traditions of the district of Feast of Apple second half Czasław www.raciechowice.pl Raciechowice and offers presentations of the local cuisine, and Pear of September as well as numerous competitions second the place is famous for its cabbage-growing tradition; a gre- Charsznica Charsznica Sunday www.charsznica.info at occasion to taste, among other things, charsznicki bigos Cabbage Days of September made from the local cabbage this festival celebrates dishes made with local beans, prepa- Feast of Beans Zakliczyn September www.zakliczyn.iap.pl red by Polish and international festival guests mid-Septem- potatoes in every possible shape or form: baked, stewed, Potato Day Bogucin Duży www.gmina-klucze.pl ber boiled, cold and hot, in salads, cakes, soups… Great Carp first half competitions for the best local product, tastings of the spe- Zator www.dolinakarpia.org Harvest of October cialities of the Carp Valley, fishing shows roasted cabański-style potatoes is the local speciality of the Festival of Cabań- second half www.powiat-chrza- Chrzanów Chrzanów region. The festival is the best occasion to taste ski-Style Potatoes of October nowski.pl many varieties of the same original dish Christmas-Eve Ta- a week befo- www.smak.malopol- a fair of Christmas dishes and delicacies during a Christmas Kraków ste of Małopolska re Christmas ska.pl market in the Market Square

Pierogi Festival, photo by J. Michalczak

28 29 PunktyMałopolska I nformacjiInformacji Tourist T urystycznejITurystycznejnformation System Points Notes

KraKów Tarnów biały Dunajec InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec \+48 513 099 688, \+48 14 688 90 90, \+48 18 200 16 90, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków Tuchów białKa TaTrzańsKa \+48 12 421 77 87 ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska InfoKraków, Os. Słoneczne 16, \+48 14 652 54 36, \+48 18 533 19 59, 31-958 Kraków [email protected] [email protected] \+48 12 643 03 03 Dąbrowa TarnowsKa nowy Targ InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ \+48 12 422 04 71 \+48 14 657 00 07, it.dabrowa- \+48 18 266 30 36, [email protected] InfoKraków Sukiennice, [email protected] Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków waDowice rabKa-zDrój \+48 12 433 73 10 ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój \+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit. \+48 18 269 15 53, InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach, malopolska.pl [email protected] ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków \+48 12 263 60 64 anDrychów nowy sącz Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, \+48 33 842 99 36, \+48 18 444 24 22, 31-024 Kraków [email protected] [email protected] \+48 12 432 01 10 sucha besKiDzKa Krynica-zDrój InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański, ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 \+48 33 874 26 05, \+48 18 472 55 77, \ +48 12 616 18 86 [email protected] [email protected] InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port oświęciM liManowa Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa \+48 12 285 53 41 \+48 33 843 00 91, \+48 18 337 58 00, [email protected] [email protected] yślenice M chrzanów biecz Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz \+48 12 272 23 12, \+48 32 623 20 44, \+48 13 447 92 47, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] wiśniowa Trzebinia sęKowa Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa \+48 12 271 44 93, \+48 32 612 14 97, \+48 18 351 87 70, [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Dobczyce zaKopane ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane \+48 12 271 01 53, \+48 18 201 20 04, [email protected] [email protected] olKusz poronin ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin \+48 32 72 43 282, \+48 18 207 42 98, [email protected] [email protected] Miechów wiTów Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów \+48 41 383 13 11, \+48 18 207 18 98, [email protected] [email protected]

31 Notes