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THE 2019 VINTAGE A FUTURE LEGEND Using this 4 Region Report 6 The Sub-regions e are delighted Guide to present the latest 8 Key Designations W releases from Austria. Contents9 The Grapes More specifically, all the selected are white, and from vineyards located to the north-east

of Vienna where the great Danube river and its Wachau10 Weingut Knoll tributaries flow. 13 F.X. Pichler 14 Mathias Hirtzberger These producers grow and Grüner 15 Franz Hirtzberger Veltliner plus small quantities of other varieties, to produce world-class wines in the regions of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal.

Grapes & Maps Kremstal16 Stadt Krems To help you explore these wines we have included 17 Rainer Wess a map of the region, a guide to the grape varieties and an explanation of key designations.

Kamptal Prices 18 Schloss Gobelsburg At the time of print, all prices are up to date, and quoted in bond. Any changes will be reflected on our website.

Instagram Our growers are generous with their social media presences, so we encourage you to follow them, and to see behind the scenes. We'd like to help you discover their accounts by indicating their handle, where applicable, next to this symbol. [ @laywheeler ]

Photography (except the cover & this spread) kindly supplied by the following: www.weingut-wess.at www.weingutstadtkrems.at www.gobelsburg.at

2 | AUSTRIA ALL PRICES QUOTED IN BOND AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE AUSTRIA | 3 Region Report When looking to impress aficionados, I’ve found some of the most consistently high performing dry whites are Austria’s and Grüner Veltliners. These bottlings amaze time and time again with their balance of intense fruit and thrilling minerality. They age spectacularly. They’re infinitely complex.

These wines are crying out for a place at the top table, and so we have found them one.

I’ve developed this range for you of This is our most extensive Austrian Austria’s greatest dry whites, from a offer yet. There are seven producers, year, 2019, that will go down as a legendary all of whom are found in Niederösterreich, vintage for the country. or lower Austria. More specifically, their vineyards all run along the Danube river, I started tasting a few wines in early May, and its tributaries, from the sub-regions of and quickly realised that they were Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal. something out of the ordinary. These wines have a vibrancy that’s only found in the Austria’s most legendary names are here, greatest vintages. including F.X. Pichler, Knoll, and Franz Hirtzberger. There are historic estates The more I’ve tasted, the clearer it is that like Stadt Krems and Schloss Gobelsberg. 2019 is special: a vintage that I’m sure will And there are up and coming stars: be spoken about for decades to come. Mathias Hirtzberger and Rainer Wess.

It continues the “legend of the niners”, These Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners are following 1999 and 2009 which were both bottles that will go toe-to-toe with the world’s outstanding vintages in Austria. finest whites, thanks to their quality, value, and longevity. The product of a warm and dry vintage, with perfect harvesting conditions, what’s Best wishes, most remarkable is that the wines maintain a freshness and lift, alongside intensity of fruit. Reading over my raw notes, I find one word time and time again: ‘explosive’. These are Robbie Toothill wines that wow with their power. September 2020

4 | AUSTRIA ALL PRICES QUOTED IN BOND AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE Niederosterriech ustria Kamptal TheWachau Sub-regionsKamptal Undoubtedly Austria’s most famous Named after the Kamp river, which flows into the Kremstal region, the narrow valley of the Wachau runs along Danube near Krems, the region of Kamptal centres the Danube between the cooler Spitzer Graben in on the town of Langenlois, a wine lover’s paradise. the west, to the warmer Loibenberg in the east. It’s a complex region geologically, with a mix of volcanic soils and wind-blown loess, with plenty Two powerful climatic systems meet here - the of gravel, too. western Atlantic and eastern Pannonian - and that creates tension. When one considers the At the heart of the region is the legendary Wien microclimatic differences that come about due Heiligenstein vineyard, with its red desert to the presence of the wide Danube, the steep, sandstone. And although “heilig” might mean rocky slopes, and the cool downdrafts that comes “holy” in German, the name actually refers to from the forested Waldviertel, it’s clear there are the “hellish” sunshine: this is a hot, dry vineyard. perfect conditions for some of the world’s greatest Rieslings and Grüner Veltliners to develop stark Schloss Gobelsburg are the pinnacle here, tension between ripeness and piercing acidity. with a history of winemaking dating back to 1171. Wachau

Kremstal Named after the town of Krems an der Donau, Kremstal sits between Wachau and Kamptal. The ‘Stein’ area of the region touches the Burgenland Wachau, and is geologically similar to its better-known neighbour.

In general, Kremstal is a region where the terraced river valley is well protected from the cool northerly winds, but where the warm air currents of the Pannonian climate zone from the east can make themselves keenly felt.

This is a warmer, riper region than the Kamptal, or the Wachau. The wines are juicy and focussed, with more ripeness and intensity of fruit than those of Kamptal, and much of the Wachau.

Steiermark

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DesignationsSteinfeder, Federspiel & Smaragd Within the region of the Wachau, these terms Grapes designate the ripeness of the wines - and generally too, their position up the hierarchy. Grüner Veltliner The most planted grape variety in Austria, Steinfeder wines are the lightest, at under and often considered the national grape, 11.5% abv. Grüner Veltliner is incredibly versatile. Often peppery and spicy, the best examples Federspiels come in at between 11.5% and 12.5%, tread the line between Chardonnay’s weight and are generally delicious for drinking young, of fruit and texture, and Riesling’s minerality. or as an aperitif. This white grape is an outstanding conduit of . Smaragd are the most serious wines, that come in at 12.5% or over. These are the region’s real calling card: the best marry the weight of fruit with sizzling acidity, and are ageworthy bottlings.

Erste Lage/1.OTW Riesling In Kremstal and Kamptal (as well as a few other For many wine lovers, Riesling is the pinnacle: Austrian regions, but not the Wachau), these are the grape that produces the world’s greatest the top sites - loosely translated as premiers crus. whites (alongside Chardonnay). In Austria, There are now just 81 sites in Austria that are these wines show more body and richness than designated as such. you’d find in Germany, but maintain spectacular minerality in the greatest sites. Examples will age for decades.

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2019 Grüner Veltliner 2019 Riesling Ried Loibner, Federspiel Pfaffenberg, Kabinett Plenty of lime on the nose, with a hint of spice, and Really lovely lemon sherbet character to this, sea spray, too. The palate is so vibrant and focussed. with notes of wild flowers, and just a hint of Beautiful tension, with a grippy, mouthwatering finish. bitter orange. The finish is very clean and dry, Stunningly good value. and there’s excellent persistence.

£12.50 per bottle £17 per bottle £75 per 6 bottles £102 per 6 bottles WEINGUT KNOLL Drink 2021 - 2033 Drink 2021 - 2033 UNTERLOIBEN With some of the world’s most recognisable 2019 Grüner Veltliner Ried 2019 Riesling Ried Wachaulabels, Weingut Knoll is found in the village of Schutt, Smaragd Loibenberg, Smaragd Unterloiben, at the eastern edge of the Wachau. A relatively opulent nose, with notes of ripe lemons Really explosive and intense on the nose, with notes and Seville oranges, and a hint of candied pineapple. of grapefruit pith, as well as some minty, herbal notes. It’s run by Emmerich Knoll, the third generation There’s lovely weight on the palate, but with dancing Very long and focussed, but with impressive weight, winemaker here, who took over from his father, acidity, and plenty of spice. Outstanding length. this is a stunningly pure expression. also called Emmerich. For many, they are the pinnacle of Austrian wine. While the label is £28 per bottle £32 per bottle £168 per 6 bottles £192 per 6 bottles memorable, Emmerich himself doesn’t enjoy Drink 2022 - 2040 Drink 2022 - 2045 showy wines. These are as elegant, poised, and focussed as any you’ll find. They are unforgettable, ageworthy wines, that speak of 2019 Grüner Veltliner Ried 2019 Riesling Ried Kellerberg, Smaragd a sense of place with real precision. They’re a Loibenberg, Smaragd Such a pure, focussed, explosive wine, the 2019 must-have addition to any fine wine cellar. This needs plenty of swirling, but with air come notes Kellerberg is a future legend. This is so tense and of blood orange, and plenty of creamy minerality. textured, but with such depth and weight to the fruit. The palate is powerful and intense, with lots of spice A finish that lasts for minutes, and a texture that coats and a very savoury, saline finish. Impressive. the mouth. Bravo.

£28 per bottle £32 per bottle £168 per 6 bottles £192 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2040 Drink 2022 - 2045

2019 Riesling Loibner, Federspiel Very floral and elegant, there’s a lightness of touch here. Notes of orange blossom and plenty of citrus zest, and just a hint of spearmint on the finish. Vibrant.

£17 per bottle £102 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2033

10 | AUSTRIA ALL PRICES QUOTED IN BOND AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE 01473 313 300 | [email protected] | WWW.LAYWHEELER.COM/AUSTRIA2019 AUSTRIA | 11 WACHAU 13 | AUSTRIA AUSTRIA £65 per bottle £390 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2050 £38 per bottle £228 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2042 2019 Riesling Ried Steinertal, Smaragd 2019 Riesling Ried Steinertal, Smaragd A cooler site, the Steinertal yields to Rieslings of pure elegance and definition, with plenty of white pepper, acidity, bracing white peaches. There’s and fresh real delight. finish. A and a cleansing, tonic-like Smaragd 2019 Riesling Ried Kellerberg, one of the call Kellerberg of those in the know Many diurnal a large Here, vineyards. greatest Wachau’s impeccably ripe, but also wines that are ensures range with racy acidity and stunning definition of fruit. This is Cru. a true Grand

01473 313 300 | [email protected] | WWW.LAYWHEELER.COM/AUSTRIA2019 313 300 | [email protected] 01473 £62 per bottle £372 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2044 £23.50 per bottle £141 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2035 £42 per bottle £252 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2042 @weingut_fxpichler 2019 Riesling Burgstall, Federspiel Federspiel 2019 Riesling Burgstall, the constant prevailing site, yet is a sunny Burgstall one of the later ripening that it’s wind ensures That leads to an interplay between here. vineyards rich, This is racy, intense fruit and a cool freshness. and delicious. 2019 Grüner Veltliner Ried Ried 2019 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg, - is all mountain” - or “love vineyard The Liebenberg old. with vines aged up to 65 years planted to Grüner, and a wine all about texture Spicy and intense, it’s and intense fruit with spice, herbal notes, complexity, the glass. all swirling from M, Smaragd 2019 Grüner Veltliner M stands for monumental, and this wine is only made select parcels, It comes from in the finest vintages here. That makes later than the other wines. and is picked of intense expression powerful, more more it a richer, and not to be missed in 2019. production, Tiny Grüner. F.X. PICHLER F.X. OBERLOIBEN their vines by Lucas and his winery their modern, spaceship-like overlooking run from Now who put the estate on the map. He built (F.X.), Xaver Franz father, German wife, it was his so few generations, for five been farmers in the region have But the family the winery in 1971. that monumental: bottlings than the Pichlers. Their wines are here better understand the terroir their near neighbours than upfront more of fruit. These are and weight stun with their texture terroir. spectacular the Wachau’s Knoll. This is a winery Crus, from making true Grands WACHAU 15 | AUSTRIA AUSTRIA

£40 per bottle £240 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2040 £65 per bottle £390 per 6 bottles Drink 2023 - 2050 £18.50 per bottle £111 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2032 2019 Riesling Singerriedel, Smaragd 2019 Riesling Singerriedel, Smaragd this is a just behind the winery, the vineyard From Cru. So elegant, finessed and true Austrian Grand stones notes of wet the nose. There’s on expressive and so, so This is beguiling, acidity. and vibrant wine - one that encourages a cerebral long. It’s remaining delicious. But it does so while reflection. FRANZ FRANZ HIRTZBERGER SPITZ end of the Wachau, the far western Situated at tend to be cooler and more the wines where some Hirtzberger crafts Franz Weingut mineral, white wines thrilling of the most viscerally is a himself Franz come across. that we’ve perfectionist, remarkable show and his wines particular Of acidity. balance of fruit and vibrant the Riesling. From note is the Singerriedel 13th century home, behind the estate’s vineyard whites. greatest world’s one of the this is surely Federspiel 2019 Riesling Steinterrassen, and Singerriedel, this Hochrain A blend of Setzberg, before weeks few a is a stunning value white. Picked and delicate on the pure incredibly it’s the Smaragd, and a long, density on the palate, nose, while there’s yet explosive. focussed finish. This is elegant, Smaragd 2019 Riesling Setzberg, The coolest site at almost 300m of altitude, on gneiss Notes of lime and energetic. soils, this is so vibrant mineral pith, and such a stony, blossom and grapefruit focussed. and incredibly This is long, pure, texture. Such a delight.

£27.50 per bottle per £27.50 £165 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2038 £15 per bottle £90 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2030 @weinhofmeisterei lemon sherbet and a hint of tarragon on the palate. on the palate. lemon sherbet and a hint of tarragon this is mouth tingling and so much energy: There's Smaragd Spitaler, 2019 Grüner Veltliner a on the nose, there’s Quite rich and broad it very which keeps herbal element here lovely and also plenty of bitter orange focussed. There’s petal of rose with notes character, a pomegranate long, and complex. alongside. Pure, 2019 Grüner Veltliner Treu, Federspiel Federspiel Treu, 2019 Grüner Veltliner notes of and delicate on the nose, there’s Floral wine for the price. very long. An impressive MATHIAS MATHIAS HIRTZBERGER IN DER WACHAU WÖSENDORF legendary the from Weingut of Franz, Brother originally in Spitz, Mathias didn’t Hirtzberger in and work tradition the family want to follow was too much. pull of the vineyards the wine. Yet to work to the Wachau He initially returned estate starting his own before with his brother, in 2014. He and valley, at the other end of the Grüners of the producing his wife, Hanna, are the ripeness from benefitting very highest level, alongside valley, of the eastern end of the lightness of touch. This is a an impressive winery great. young destined to be a future ALL PRICES QUOTED IN BOND AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE TO IN BOND AND SUBJECT ALL PRICES QUOTED AUSTRIA | 14 KREMSTAL 17 | AUSTRIA AUSTRIA

£19 per bottle £114 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2036 £19 per bottle £114 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2036 £10 per bottle £60 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2030 @weingutrainerwess 2019 Riesling Kogl 1.ÖTW 2019 Riesling Kogl from protected that’s This is a south-facing vineyard in a really winds, and the wine results the strongest of Riesling, but one with opulent expression rather to the fruit. With coaxing come notes purity lovely element. as a floral of nectarine and peach, as well to it, with a generosity The palate has nice roundness that freshness but still the explosive and creaminess, marks out the 2019s. RAINER WESS RAINER DER DONAU KREMS AN particularly all over, had worked Rainer Wess to his native returning before in Bordeaux, with love late 1990s. He fell in Austria in the so with Kremstal, more and even the Wachau, in own estate here and finally started his farmed sustainably, are 2003. The vineyards means organically, often which in practice hectares farming 15 with the family now joined by been now He’s Kremstal. across and son David, and his daughter Christina some of the most estate produces this young anywhere. find crystalline, elegant wines you’ll 2019 Gemischte Satz Muskateller, Veltliner, This is a field blend of Grüner Müller Thurgau, Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc, Frühroter sites, cooler all from and Neuburger, Chardonnay nose of mandarin oranges Lovely fermented together. on the palate, with citrus. So explosive and creamy finish. saline and a savoury, acidity, mouthwatering Delicious and cleansing. 2019 Riesling Pfaffenberg 1.ÖTW located vineyard, a steep, south-east facing From very close to the Danube, this site sees extreme intense and and lots of wind. More temperatures acidity loads of fresh there’s savoury than the Kogl, and lots of grip on the palate. This is very and long purity to the fruit. saline, with excellent

£25 per bottle £150 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2038 £11.50 per bottle £11.50 £69 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2030 per bottle £11.50 £69 per 6 bottles Drink 2021 - 2030 and white pepper, and a real grip to the palate. to the palate. grip and a real and white pepper, and a long here, texture an impressive There’s an outstanding finish. This is and mouthwatering to the style. and a brilliant introduction Grüner, 2019 Riesling Stein Schieferterrassen to the nose on this Riesling, element floral A lovely petal shining rose and even with honeysuckle, fruit to the a beautiful creaminess There’s through. and so delicious. The is so approachable, this here: finish has notes of white peach, and a vibrancy value. Excellent to ignore. hard that’s and energy 2019 Riesling Schreck its name means fright in German, and takes Schreck away potential scare the watchmen who would from steep site, and in 2019 an incredibly It’s thieves. grape complex, and enduring Riesling. a layered, has crafted a ripeness to the fruit, with notes of candied There’s spices. Quite a hedonistic wine, pineapple, and exotic glorious in 2019. 2019 Grüner Veltliner Stein 2019 Grüner Veltliner A charming Grüner with plenty of ripeness and intensity to the fruit. Notes of tarragon

@weingut_stadt_krems

STADT KREMS STADT KREMS AN DER DONAU of revenue in 1452 as a source Founded Stadt Weingut for the hospital of Krems, the municipality of by owned remains Krems all of vineyards, 31 hectares own They Krems. and its located within the city limits of Krems Miesbauer neighbouring district of Stein. Fritz in 2003, and here and his team took over immediately set about modernising the estate, and smartening up the vineyards replanting depth of fruit and real wines have The cellar. some of the most They’re character. regional legendary grape of Austria’s delicious examples The value for come across. varieties that you’ll is astonishing. money Kremstal ALL PRICES QUOTED IN BOND AND SUBJECT TO CHANGE TO IN BOND AND SUBJECT ALL PRICES QUOTED AUSTRIA | 16 SCHLOSS GOBELSBURG LANGENLOIS Few wineries globally have as impressive a history as Schloss Gobelsberg. A monastery dating back to the Kamptaltwelfth century, remarkably the monks were still producing the wine at the estate as recently as 1995 from their spectacular old vineyards. But in 1996 winemaker Michael Moosbrugger took over the winemaking responsibilities on a long term lease. It was evolution not revolution here, with slow restructuring of some vineyards, and winemaking that remains traditional, but is now more precise. The wines are stunning, with minerality, texture and soul in spades. @winery.schlossgobelsburg

2019 Grüner Veltliner 2019 Riesling Gaisberg 1.ÖTW Ried Renner 1.ÖTW A really beautiful nose on the 2019 Gaisberg, that From the Gaisberg vineyard, this is from the slope. comes from some of the winery’s oldest vineyards. It is very intense, with plenty of cool acidity: this is so This is sometimes called the baby Heliginstein, explosive and powerful. There’s a smoky character due to the similarities in terroir. The palate is so intense to the minerality, with a finish that lasts for minutes. and concentrated, but with a lightness of touch about Brilliant at this price. it. Notes of honeysuckle and pure lemon oil last for minutes. Bravo. £19 per bottle £114 per 6 bottles £18 per bottle Drink 2021 - 2034 £108 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2036

2019 Grüner Veltliner Ried Grub 1.ÖTW This is from relatively high up the slope, from a well-protected site. There’s a pepperiness here, and a ripe peach character. Lovely acidity and intensity, and a crystalline purity marks this out. There’s a savoury, mouthwatering finish, with just a hint of candied orange peel.

£23.50 per bottle £141 per 6 bottles Drink 2022 - 2036

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