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A Study of Vakwangali Traditional Clothing for Fashion

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A Study of Vakwangali Traditional Clothing for Fashion A STUDY OF VAKWANGALI TRADITIONAL CLOTHING FOR FASHION CREATION IN NAMIBIA A THESIS SUBMITTED IN FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ARTS (VISUAL ARTS) OF THE UNIVERSITY OF NAMIBIA BY MARIA A. N. CALEY 200012789 APRIL 2020 MAIN SUPERVISOR: Dr Kletus Muhena Likuwa, (UNAM) CO-SUPERVISOR: Dr Napandulwe Shiweda, (UNAM) ABSTRACT The need to explore the Vakwangali traditional clothing as an inspiration for designing fashion clothing arose from acquired knowledge and understanding that intersections exist between traditional clothing and fashion design. It also began from observations that while such intersections seem to have resulted in the development of fashion clothing from traditional clothing among, for example, Ovaherero and Aawambo of Namibia, it is puzzling as to why the same have not occurred among Vakwangali of Kavango West region. Traditional clothing of Vakwangali has a rich history that is embedded with value and meaning. However, this rich cultural heritage is not reflected in their everyday wear. The main objective of this study was to explore various Vakwangali traditional clothing and styles over time; in order to explain the lack of transformation of Vakwangali cultural clothing from traditional clothing styles to fashion clothing. In addition this study aimed to suggest initiatives to transform Vakwangali traditional clothing into fashion through an exhibition fashion collection. Data was collected through interviews with key informants to gain in-depth knowledge regarding Vakwangali traditional clothing and its influence through a narrative style. Additional archival documents, regarding early establishment of mission work and schools, showed the influence of Christianity and colonial rule on Vakwangali traditional clothing including its transformation. Artefacts were also observed at the Maria Mwengere Museum in Rundu and Owela Museum in Windhoek to record details on craftsmanship of Vakwangali traditional clothing needed for fashion i design. In addition, the online BAB Photography archive was studied to gain visual references to guide the designing process of the Vakwangali Fashion Collection. The study found that besides the various Vakwangali clothing, which included leather aprons for men and women, different hairstyles and ornaments were used to adorn the body. The study also found that there existed different styles between gender and social status. Generally, factors such as trade, Christianity and changing of livelihood contributed to the lack of transformation of Vakwangali traditional clothing into fashion. Further, the study revealed that Vakwangali are longing to restore the value and meaning that was embedded into the traditional clothing and are open to initiatives of reviving Vakwangali traditional clothing. This study created possible ideas for transforming Vakwangali traditional clothing into fashion from which Vakwangali fashion collection was created. The study recommended that different projects should adopt the suggested styles for different occasions. ii Contents ABSTRACT .............................................................................................................................. i LIST OF FIGURES ................................................................................................................. vi GLOSSARY ........................................................................................................................... vii LIST OF ABBREVIATIONS OR ACRONYMS .................................................................... ix ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ...................................................................................................... x DEDICATION ........................................................................................................................ xii DECLARATIONS ................................................................................................................. xiii CHAPTER 1: ........................................................................................................................... 1 INTRODUCTION ................................................................................................................... 1 Background of the study ................................................................................................... 1 CHAPTER 2: ........................................................................................................................... 6 LITERATURE REVIEW ........................................................................................................ 6 Introduction ........................................................................................................................ 6 Formations of African fashion .......................................................................................... 6 Traditional clothing and transformation ....................................................................... 12 Vakwangali traditional clothing ..................................................................................... 21 Vakwangali traditional clothing and changes ............................................................... 25 Traditional clothing in photograph archives ................................................................. 28 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 30 CHAPTER 3 .......................................................................................................................... 32 METHODOLOGY ................................................................................................................ 32 Research Design ............................................................................................................... 32 Population ......................................................................................................................... 34 Sample ............................................................................................................................... 35 RESEARCH INSTRUMENTS .............................................................................................. 35 Semi-structured interviews ............................................................................................. 36 Scheduled interview guide ............................................................................................... 38 Observation check list ...................................................................................................... 39 Creative diary ................................................................................................................... 40 Exhibition guest book ...................................................................................................... 41 Procedure .......................................................................................................................... 42 Data analysis ..................................................................................................................... 44 Research Ethics ................................................................................................................ 44 iii CHAPTER 4: ......................................................................................................................... 46 VARIOUS VAKWANGALI TRADITIONAL CLOTHING AND STYLES OVER TIME 46 Introduction ...................................................................................................................... 46 Various Vakwangali traditional clothing ....................................................................... 47 Vakwangali traditional accessories and styles ............................................................... 54 Vakwangali men’s traditional accessories and styles ................................................... 55 Vakwangali women’s traditional accessories and styles............................................... 58 Skills required for making Vakwangali traditional clothing ....................................... 65 Skills required for making Vakwangali traditional accessories .................................. 67 Local traditional community events ............................................................................... 68 Value and meaning .......................................................................................................... 71 Conclusion ........................................................................................................................ 75 CHAPTER 5 .......................................................................................................................... 76 LACK OF TRANSFORMATION OF VAKWANGALI TRADITIONAL CLOTHING INTO FASHION .................................................................................................................... 76 Introduction ...................................................................................................................... 76 Yimbali and European traders ....................................................................................... 76 Christianity and the colonial Native Commissioner ..................................................... 77 Contract labour system ................................................................................................... 83 Cultural, social, economic and identity changes ..........................................................
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