The Sustainable 2012 - Action Plan 2019 2020 Commitment Report on Progress

November | 2020 Vision / Targets / Focus on Focus on Focus on Working Behaviour Re-use & Extending Sustainability What What’s Commitment Results Carbon Water Waste Collaboratively Change Re-cycling Clothing Life Metrics Difference? Next?

Foreword

To create a world where This year’s annual review of the Sustainable Pioneering businesses began this Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) is of marked journey together in 2012, together with resources are used importance. 2020 is the final year of governments, knowledge partners and sustainably requires SCAP and coincides with a period when citizens. SCAP has demonstrated the the sector faces major business benefits of pre-competitive collaboration action: sustained, challenges as a result of the pandemic. As since its launch. In 2020, despite the collaborative action. such, the data collected for this report will ravages of COVID-19, the priority now reflect the last year in which signatories must be to ensure continuity of the global were operating as normal. climate effort and the UK’s place within it. We urgently need the whole UK There is therefore an opportunity to and textiles sector to come together, both reflect back on the progress that has by implementing a ‘target, measure, act’ been made since 2012. The data show Marcus Gover, approach, and sharing our expertise and CEO, WRAP we have delivered tangible reductions in resource to transform this sector into a carbon, water and waste. Together we are circular success story. exceeding the SCAP targets for carbon and water. However, the slower progress We thank signatories, advisors, funders and on waste makes it clear we have no colleagues for the commitment and energy cause for resting on our laurels. As SCAP they have given to SCAP. We now need to draws to a close, it’s time to renew our bring our combined voices to the table when efforts and build on its legacy - to harness governments are agreeing priorities for what we’ve learned and take action with the textiles sector in the UK - to inspire our increasing urgency during the next ten customers to buy differently, and to develop years. It is time for a fundamental shift away new business models to build a sustainable, from a ‘take, make, dispose’ textiles model flourishing new sector, a prosperous to a more sustainable, circular future. UK economy and a planet fit for future generations.

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We love the wealth The SCAP of knowledge and Focus on Focus on Focus on Vision and expertise within the Carbon Water Waste Commitment SCAP organisation and within its members.

Mint Velvet

SCAP Consumer Design for Working Re-use and Targets and Behaviour Extending Collaboratively Re-cycling Results Change Clothing Life

LINKS SCAP Legacy: SCAP Technical Report What’s next Sustainability What Difference SCAP website for sustainable Metrics Did We Make? textiles in the UK?

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SCAP – The Vision and Commitment

SCAP is a collaborative 1 Use the SCAP footprint Actions support the following targets calculator to measure impacts framework and voluntary for reducing the carbon, water, and of all products sold and track commitment to deliver waste footprints of clothing against a changes over time industry-led targets for 2012 baseline: reducing the end-to-end 2 Make changes in fibre and use of resources to provide fabric selection that reduce our clothing. the environmental footprint of clothing products -15% Over 90 organisations, including CARBON FOOTPRINT brands & retailers representing 3 Work with supply chain partners to more than 48% of UK clothing reduce the environmental impact of manufacturing processes sales volume, have made the voluntary SCAP Commitment to 4 Extend the useful life of clothes -15% collectively reduce the impacts and reduce the impact of clothing of products by taking action in in use through product design and WATER FOOTPRINT seven key areas. services

5 Use effective messaging to influence consumer behaviours -3.5% that will reduce environmental impacts from clothing WASTE FOOTPRINT

6 Increase re-use and recycling to recover maximum value from used clothing -15% 7 Develop actions to keep clothing CLOTHING IN HOUSEHOLD WASTE out of landfill

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Introduction

SCAP 2020 uses collective action Together, signatories have: This report for the period 2012 - 2019 to minimise the environmental outlines how WRAP’s pioneering industry- • Used the SCAP footprint calculator to impact of our clothes. led action plan has delivered positive measure and report on the carbon, environmental and economic outcomes WRAP’s voluntary agreement has brought water and waste impacts of products for forward-looking UK fashion and textiles together fashion brands and retailers, placed on the market organisations at all levels of the industry. charity retailers, textile recyclers and It highlights examples of best practice, • Set group and individual impact industry experts in long-term collaboration describes the impact of some of the reduction targets to successfully reduce the water, waste and signatory actions, and the ‘SCAP legacy’. carbon impacts of clothing. Finally it considers how to take the learning • Carried out improvement actions to from SCAP forward into the 2020s and the reduce the impact of products next steps for UK fashion and textiles.

• Invested in new techniques and This is a high-level summary report of SCAP pilot programmes to improve the progress to date – the full technical data sustainability of textiles report is available here.

• Developed sustainability metrics

• Carried out industry and consumer research

• Developed tools to encourage consumer behaviour change

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Who signed up? SCAP Signatories and Supporters

SCAP signatories are industry-leading fashion brands, retailers, manufacturers, recycling, re-use and waste management Being part of SCAP has enabled us to work companies. As active participants in the collaboratively with other UK brands and textiles industry, signatories are on the retailers and enact change within our own front line, setting targets, measuring 90 business. I would encourage all who want their impacts and taking action: changing to be part of a more sustainable clothing their business practices and putting SCAP signatories and industry to join. research into action. supporters Alan Wragg SCAP supporters are trade associations, F&F Technical Director, TESCO academic organisations, researchers, innovators, NGOs and campaigning groups. SCAP supporters influence the textiles industry – providing expertise, 53 support and guidance to the ideas and targets of SCAP. academic and industry supporters

8 48% year of sales commitment by volume

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Targets and Headline Results for end-2019

The SCAP industry-developed targets are to achieve, between RESULTS 2012 and 2020 -15.9% -19.5% -2.3% -4%* • 15% reductions in the carbon and water footprints of clothing placed carbon water waste clothing in on the market by SCAP retailers footprint footprint footprint household waste and brands, measured per tonne of garment sales

• 3.5% reduction in waste arising over the product life cycle across SCAP signatories

• 15% reduction in clothing waste going to landfill and incineration in the UK

AGAINST A TARGET OF TARGETS -15% -15% -3.5% -15% carbon water waste clothing in footprint footprint footprint household waste

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Our Approach: Target, Measure, Act

SCAP Footprint Calculator Using the SCAP footprinting tool we have Target: Reporting in SCAP is designed to calculated that we have reduced the carbon support group and individual goals. footprint of our own operations by 25%.

Measure: Signatories calculate their impacts by reporting product data through the SCAP footprint calculator which then displays the carbon, water and waste footprint of the portfolio of products they sell. The guidelines, support and tools that SCAP Act: Signatories use the output of provides makes it a great place for any the calculator to model scenarios for brand starting their sustainable journey. improvement, for example by switching to fibres with recycled content.

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Improvement Actions

SCAP retailers are asked to report Fibre substitution actions improvement actions that they have replace conventionally sourced fibres 58 taken in the past year when they enter with lower impact fibres. We’re relatively new to measuring the their data in the footprint calculator. IMPROVEMENT ACTIONS IN 2019 impact of our business, but having access These are modelled as a switch from Example: replacing conventional cotton to the footprint calculator has given us conventional to more sustainable fibres, with organic cotton which avoids confidence that we’re on the right track. The lower impact production techniques synthetic pesticides, herbicides and ability to run different scenarios has been and increased recycling and re-use to fungicides, providing an associated 208 a powerful tool enabling us to quantify the keep fibres and garments in circulation reduction in water, pollution and impacts of the sustainable changes we can for longer. From a zero score in 2012, carbon emissions. IMPROVEMENT ACTIONS SINCE 2012 and do make. signatories have reported a significant Efficient production actions increase in improvement actions year on introduce more efficient means of year throughout the SCAP agreement. producing yarn, fabric or garments. Fifty eight fibre substitution, efficient 55% production and re-use actions were Example: improved dyeing techniques taken in 2019. OF COTTON SOLD IN 2019 IS including spin dyeing of viscose and MORE SUSTAINABLE dope dyeing of synthetic fibres.

Re-use actions focus on what happens when the first consumer has finished with a garment, so it can be 95,000 used again. TONNES OF IMPROVED FIBRES THIS YEAR Example: hire and repair services, or an increase in collection for re-use and recycling.

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Focus on Carbon

Progress: This review of SCAP progress What are the ‘other’ carbon reduction to date shows that the carbon target has factors in this graph? been met and exceeded, with a reduction The SCAP footprint calculator is updated to of 15.9% against a target of 15%. 5% reflect the impact of changing consumer This progress has been achieved by a behaviour. Since 2012, the SCAP Consumer 0% combination of factors: Changes in the Behaviour Group and signatory businesses proportions of different fibres used in have worked with WRAP to influence clothing; increased use of sustainable -5% 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 consumer behaviour at key moments in sources of cotton; changes in citizens’ the fashion product life cycle (purchase, laundry behaviour, and changes to the use and end-of- life of garments). WRAP’s 10% way grid electricity is generated have all consumer survey 2017 results indicate that contributed to the reduction in carbon clothes washing behaviour has changed associated with signatories. 15% in relation to washing frequency, washing temperature, and machine drying and this Improvement actions: The most has had an impact on the product footprint. impactful factor for the reduction in 20% Another background factor is a change in carbon footprint was the shift in fibre mix the emissions intensity of the UK national away from carbon intensive fibres such as grid which is powered differently in 2019 acrylic and wool. than when SCAP launched in 2012.

The most used improvement actions by SCAP retailers are the uptake of recycled polyester, lyocell and organic cotton. Key Carbon - Other Carbon - Improvement actions

Signatories have also begun to introduce lower impact factory processes such as improved dyeing techniques and these Carbon footprint reduction per tonne of garments sold; effect of improvement actions have made a smaller contribution.

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Recycling and Innovation for Carbon Reduction

Signatory improvement actions that reduce carbon include: use of improved Recycled Polyester and Nylon Dope Dyeing Polyester and Viscose Cold Pad Batch Dyeing fibres, collecting garments for recycling and re-use, and At F&F, we have focused on switching We moved product from piece We’ve introduced cold pad batch dyeing the fabrics we use to more sustainable starting to introduce lower dyed to dope dyed polyester and of synthetic fibres across some of our options. For example: virgin polyester viscose to deliver improved colour core ranges, directly contributing to impact factory processes to recycled, virgin nylon to recycled, consistency and shade matching, which water and energy savings. such as lower impact dyeing viscose to lyocell and conventional is particularly important within our technology. cotton to BCI or organic. Menswear tailoring department where our customers can buy each part of a In doing so we have been able to suit separately. demonstrate over 30% reduction in water and almost 20% reduction Dope dyeing provides a less energy in carbon. and water intensive method of colouring the fabric than piece dyeing Collecting Garments for as the colour pigment is added during Re-use and Recycling the polyester chip production. We SATCoL has been a signatory to SCAP encourage our suppliers to produce since 2011. In that time we have dope dyed polyester and viscose where increased/near doubled the quantity of possible and have been able to measure second hand clothing we collect each the quantity of fibre used by Next as year at recycling banks from our large dope dyed and included this within our supermarket customers and charity SCAP fibre footprint. shops. We now collect around 50,000 tonnes of clothing, textiles and other items each year.

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Focus on Water

This review of SCAP progress to date shows that the water target has been met and exceeded, with a reduction of 19.5% SCAP’s expertise and textile fibre data has against a target of 15% for the period 0% 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 provided the knowledge to help us plan and 2012 – 2019. migrate to more sustainable fibres through collaboration with our suppliers. The production of cotton fibres is by -5% far the largest contributor to the water footprint of clothing and the increased use of more sustainable cotton was the biggest factor in achieving the SCAP water target. -10%

Signatories switched to fibres with reduced environmental impact at farm Our biggest achievement by far was level including Organic Cotton, BCI Cotton, -15% reducing our water impact by more than Cotton Made in Africa, REEL or recovered 32% by swapping to lower impact cotton. cotton. Of these, the highest contribution to achieving the target has been the -20% increased use of BCI cotton by SCAP retailers, which was used by 7 out of 11 reporting retailers and in absolute terms -25% remains the most used improved fibre.

Future actions to reduce the water Key Water - Other Water - Improvement actions footprint of textiles are likely to continue to focus on improving cotton growing if they are to be effective. Water footprint reduction per tonne of garments sold, effect of improvement actions

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Fibre Switching for Water Reduction

Cotton has the largest water footprint of materials sold by SCAP retailers. On average the water footprint per tonne We’ve switched our key fibres to lower At M&S, we’ve been working on the adoption of garments sold has reduced by 19.5% impact alternatives. These include of more sustainable materials and dyeing between 2012 and 2019. Multiple factors conventional cotton to BCI, virgin polyester processes in our Clothing and Home are responsible for the reduction, but a to recycled and viscose to lyocell. Switching products. Since 2012, our hard work has notable action is the widespread shift to to BCI cotton alone has seen a reduction of demonstrated a 29.6% reduction in water lower impact cottons, which are typically over 70% in our water footprint. and 11.4% reduction in carbon. Reaching farmed in a less water intensive way. 100% more sustainable cotton throughout our clothing ranges was a key driver of this achievement, and now we’re scaling switching to more sustainable alternatives for our other priority fibres. We’ve achieved 14% organic cotton in 2019 – with more than 80% of cotton now more sustainably sourced.

Positive results from SCAP’s footprint analysis has confirmed that we are significantly reducing our environmental impacts through the expansion of the Primark Sustainable Cotton Program (PSCP), which uses CottonConnect’s REEL methodology.

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Focus on Waste

The SCAP waste footprint target aims Charity and commercial recycling Waste (tonnes) to achieve a 3.5% reduction in waste signatories collect, sort and distribute arising over the product life cycle across used clothing directly for re-use in the 0 50,000 100,000 150,000 200,000 250,000 SCAP signatories. The 2019 footprint UK and elsewhere. Charity retailer data shows a 2.3% reduction. Whilst there contribute to SCAP waste footprint Cotton has been a marked improvement in targets by increasing the rate of reuse of the waste footprint in recent years, it is garments sold by signatories. However, Wool unlikely that the target of 3.5% will be commercial recycler data is calculated Silk met by the end of 2020. separately to avoid double counting (where textiles are transferred between Flax/Linen The SCAP waste footprint includes signatory organisations). disposal from the supply chain as well Cellulosics as finished garments disposed at the Read more about the SCAP footprint end of the first use (consumer) phase. methodology here Polyester As the bar chart opposite indicates, Acrylic cotton and polyester are the two largest SCAP reporting has highlighted some of the challenges of calculating and contributors to waste, as they are the Pa/Nylon most used fibre types. SCAP retailers addressing textile waste. With long, PE/PP/E achieved a 1.6% reduction in waste, complex supply chains, it is not easy to obtain accurate data on waste at predominantly by moving away from Other higher waste materials, including wool the fibre production and processing and acrylic. stages of product lifecycles. Working with supply chain partners to reduce the environmental footprint of Key Fibre production Processing In use Disposal manufacturing has begun, but it is a long term process. Waste footprint of garments sold by SCAP retailers in 2019, showing the footprint by life cycle stage and fibre type

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Focus on Clothing in Household Waste

The most recent National Household Possible explanations for the SCAP has begun the work needed to Waste Composition Study (2019) discrepancy between the target and address textile waste at a systemic indicates a 4% reduction in clothing reported reduction in household level. In addition to research and waste to landfill or incineration between waste textiles are the 3% increase in work on influencing citizen behaviour 2012 and 2018. It seems likely that the clothing consumption in the UK each change, there are many examples target of a reduction by 15% will not be year, along with the rise in population of positive progress in signatory met by 2020. by over 2 million during the period of action and changes in consumer SCAP. As a result, it might be expected behaviour which indicate that with that more clothing would find its way concerted focus and continued into household waste bins. collaboration, there is a clear direction of travel towards a more circular The data may not present the textile economy. complete story however, as they omit other end-of-first-use routes that have Read about how SCAP is influencing gained popularity in recent years, such consumer behaviour on waste here as online resale platforms, informal exchange with family and friends and vintage clothing which potentially stays in circulation for much longer than a typical garment.

SCAP research has examined the attitudes, circumstances and WRAP’s recent research on clear out of behaviours that lead people to use unwanted textiles and clothing during ‘the bin’ or to prefer charity donations. lockdown has reassured us that Primark’s These data provide insights into how in-store recycling scheme will make recycling to tackle the problem of clothing in clothes easier for customers. household waste.

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Action on Consumer Waste

Several signatories identified ways to extend the life of clothing and reduce consumer waste that support Our bespoke customer repairs service allows Business support from SCAP enabled We conducted several swap shop events their business models and are relevant us to extend the life of Whistles products, us to develop several new concepts and across our boutique stores early this year to their market segment. Here are diverting faulty items from landfill and giving innovations. We were able to develop a where customers could bring pre-loved some examples of signatory action garments a new lease of life. new charity retail concept – large floor items and swap them with other preloved including repair, resale, clothing space, vehicle accessible ‘Donation items- prolonging the life of garments and REPAIR SERVICES: collection, charity donation and Centres. keeping them out of landfill. peer-to-peer clothes swapping. The research that was presented SWAP SHOP EVENTS: identified several innovative circular activities for the Donation Centres We’ve used SCAP to report our resale and and made the business case for vintage sales through ASOS Marketplace, each. Since this research, we have which launched in 2010 and helps us successfully opened 15 new Donation support the use of pre-loved clothing and Centres throughout the country with extended garment lifecycles. a programme to develop many more RE-SALE: including two trial ‘Super Donation Centres’ which are scheduled to open in Autumn 2020.

CLOTHING DONATIONS:

Since 2008, we’ve also helped customers to donate 35 million unwanted garments through our Shwopping clothes exchange partnership with Oxfam. This has prevented over 18,000 tonnes of waste.

CLOTHING COLLECTIONS IN-STORE:

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Working Collaboratively

One of the achievements of SCAP Over an eight-year period, SCAP has been the way it has effectively signatories and supporters have mobilised many of the most influential worked together as a steering group We appreciate the progress that The groups enable SCAP signatories to build organisations in the fashion and and in topic-specific work groups. Major SCAP and the signatories to the agreement knowledge in an effective and efficient textiles industry to come together retailers, brands, recyclers, sector have made, including the development and manner as well as helping to drive a over an extended period of time in bodies, NGOs and charities have shared use of the SCAP Calculator. GOTS welcomes common approach across the signatories. pre-competitive groups, creating a expertise and collaborated to take action the opportunity to interact with and learn positive and fertile environment for in four key areas: from the brands and retailers around the collaboration and learning. table, several of whom have achieved their ambition of certification to GOTS. INFLUENCING We value the opportunity to feed into the CONSUMER BEHAVIOURS An important determinant for us joining SCAP strategy. the agreement was that it was underpinned by a credible scientific evidence base. We DESIGN FOR EXTENDED were given the opportunity to input into CLOTHING LIFE the content and outputs of the research programme. SCAP has kept us informed on many relevant sector-wide issues, including levels of consumer interest RE-USE The SCAP Working Groups have been hugely in sustainable textiles, reuse and recycling & RECYCLING helpful in tackling shared sustainability and significant technology developments. challenges with other brands and retailers. They’ve helped us understand emerging METRICS FOR issues in the industry and stay up to date on SUSTAINABILITY regulatory changes.

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Influencing Consumer Behaviours

The most significant opportunity for The SCAP Consumer Behaviour reducing the environmental impact of group has worked together with WRAP clothing lies in increasing the active life on ways to influence consumers to take of the clothes we wear. SCAP 2019 data action and reduce the environmental Up to date information, campaigns and WRAP’s consumer insight reports have demonstrate how changes in consumer impacts at key points in the clothing tools for the industry and general public, provided valuable insights, helping us behaviour have delivered significant life-cycle: purchase, use (wash, care and a central point to direct people to inform and shape our sustainability reductions in the carbon, water and and repair) and end-of-life (discard, and organisations to knowing that the program accordingly. waste impacts of fashion and textiles. recycle). Brands and retailers play a role information is correct. in engaging and educating customers via a range of communication tools, for example by offering resources on care and repair and using laundry labels to influence less frequent, lower temperature washing.

Communicating with consumers through SCAP members to influence behaviours. We have published two garment care Sharing industry insight guides, promoting the longevity of into consumer behaviours. our products. Launching ‘Love Your Clothes’ with a suite of resources to help consumers to make small conscious changes to reduce the impact of clothes on the environment.

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Re-use and Recycling

The Re-use and Recycling group is focused on diverting textiles from landfill Textile collection guidance for by improving collection and separation local authorities and partners systems, and developing markets for This is an interactive guide designed The SCAP team has enabled us to bring re-use and recycling. Participants to help local authorities and textiles circular thinking into SATCoL and has including industry body the Textile collectors such as charities, waste helped us form several new business Recycling Association have noted the management companies and textile innovations and partnerships which we value of these groups in building up merchants, increase textile re-use otherwise might not have been able to. an influential network of partnerships and recycling. > Tony Hosking, across the UK and the global clothing Business Development Director supply chain, to help promote re-use and recycling, addressing actions that Re-use potential of household need to be taken at national and global bulky textiles level, and increasing the media profile of This research looks at the composition the environmental impacts of clothing. and re-use potential of bulky household textile materials like carpets, rugs and Activity has included: underlay. > • Developing systems and initiatives (including consumer communications) for improving collection of clothing Textile product flow and market development opportunities • Separation of clothing for re-use and This set of reports analyses the various recycling, where re-use of clothing is sources and collection methods for preferred to recycling textiles within the UK and assesses market opportunities to divert textiles • Market development for re-use from the waste stream. and recycling of clothing and lower > material grades

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Design for Extending Clothing Life

WRAP research shows that extending The information and learning has been the life of clothes by nine extra made available to the wider textile The Extending Clothing Life Protocol months can reduce carbon, water community on the WRAP website is a technical support tool for companies and waste footprints by around including the following resources: wishing to embed consistent quality 4-10% each. standards of good practice across their product ranges, complementing specific Retailers and brands can make a The Sustainable Clothing Guide design innovations such as anti-fading significant difference by making small is a free resource for brands and and anti-pilling technologies. It provides changes to increase the durability of manufacturers that shares simple a structured approach for development clothing during both the design and steps to best practice on how to design, teams and a workable testing regime production process. An important produce, and sell sustainable clothing to support consistency. aspect of SCAP over the past eight years that lasts longer, and that can easily > be repaired and re-used. has therefore been the collaboration > between WRAP, SCAP signatories and supporters to develop a bank of knowledge and guidance materials to inform best practice. The Clothing Knowledge Hub showcases new initiatives, processes The SCAP Design for Extending Clothing and technologies which can reduce Life group has looked at aspects the environmental impact of clothing. of clothing from design through to With research, information and manufacture, and has tested and trialled guidance on textiles from raw materials process improvements that can increase through to final disposal, the hub the length of time before a particular enables organisations make changes garment type fails or is discarded. that reduce their carbon, water and waste impacts. >

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Metrics for Sustainability

When signatories and supporters joined Prior to SCAP it was not possible for SCAP they became part of a pioneering organisations to easily measure the initiative that has changed the landscape Scope 3 greenhouse gas emissions Identifying important metrics to improve of sustainability in UK fashion and from their textile products without sustainability as a group strengthens the textiles. Central to the success of the significant investment in time collective progress we can make as an initiative is the science-based footprint and specialist resources. Very few industry. calculator and the robust methodology organisations were in a position to and peer-reviewed assessment process address this issue in 2012. The success that lies behind the reporting. of an initiative like SCAP depends on wide engagement and participation of Click here to view the SCAP Data businesses: tools therefore need to be and Methodology accessible and effective for as wide a The footprint calculator tool, and the range of businesses as possible. expertise behind it is one of the unique SCAP has been particularly effective benefits of the SCAP collaboration as it because of its early and consistent level allows us to measure the impact of the of sector involvement in its steering changes we make, as the ability to measure and working groups. changes is only becoming more important and helps to support our own Responsible Signatory and support members of the Sourcing Strategy. Metrics group worked with experts from WRAP to develop the SCAP Clothing Footprint Calculator, which enables companies to measure their baseline footprints, identify opportunities for improvement and monitor the results.

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How Well has SCAP Performed?

SCAP signatories represent almost Data suggest that SCAP signatories are half of the UK clothing market by somewhat behind the global market volume. The SCAP Progress Report tests in the use of recycled polyester (10% the overall performance of SCAP against SCAP v. 14% global). However, SCAP The Government must ensure that non-SCAP signatories, and compares signatories are using a much higher WRAP’s Sustainable Clothing Action the use of improved and recycled fibres proportion of more sustainable Plan is adequately funded to provide within the SCAP agreement to estimated cotton than their global peers. For its services to any retailer that wants to usage in the global market. example, 55% of SCAP signatories’ improve its sustainability performance – cotton is from a more sustainable regardless of its size…. We recommend source, whereas Textile Exchange’s that compliance with SCAP targets global report indicates that only 25% of should be made mandatory for all cotton is sourced this way globally. SCAP retailers with a turnover of more than signatories are also slightly ahead of £36 million. the global market for use of lyocell at ENVIRONMENTAL AUDIT 5% versus 4.3%. COMMITTEE, 2019 REPORT Fixing The robust progress demonstrated Fashion: Clothing Consumption by SCAP signatories has been and Sustainability highlighted in the 2019 Environmental Audit Committee’s investigation into clothing consumption and sustainability. Amongst the outputs of the investigation was a call to action for governments to ensure that such a programme is accessible to all retailers, and a suggestion that they should consider mandatory participation in SCAP.

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Conclusions: The SCAP Legacy What Difference did we Make?

SCAP is reaching its endpoint, but its Successes to celebrate: Learning and a call to action: momentum continues in the actions of its signatory organisations, the • Significant joint progress against an • Data indicate that waste targets heightened awareness of clothing ambitious set of targets – carbon and are unlikely to be met by the consumers, robust evidence for water targets are met. The water target end of 2020, particularly reduction the most impactful interventions, is exceeded due to a widespread shift to in landfill/incineration, although a and businesses’ ability to measure more sustainable materials – particularly number of SCAP signatory repair, greenhouse gas emissions and water lower impact cottons re-sale, collection and recycling footprints. initiatives are underway • Measurement: the SCAP footprint calculator provides a science-based and • SCAP provides knowledge and transparent approach to measuring impetus for UK-focused action in the sustainability, tracking progress against next 10 years. Research and learning targets and selecting strategies about the challenge of textile waste reduction show a clear line of • Collaboration: eight years of bringing UK travel from progress made in fashion and textiles businesses, academic, SCAP towards a circular textiles industry and research organisations economy in the UK. This will be a together to collaborate in a uniquely priority for WRAP’s new voluntary pre-competitive way, developing common agreement: Textiles 2030 insight into priorities and sharing learning from both successes and failures

• Consumer influence: SCAP signatories are in a position to influence and educate consumers; SCAP data provide evidence that citizen behaviour change is contributing to lower carbon impacts – e.g. washing less frequently and at lower temperatures

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What’s next for and Textiles in the UK?

The UK Government has agreed an WRAP is developing a new voluntary ambitious target to reach net-zero agreement – Textiles 2030 – that will carbon emissions by 2050, and the harness this energy along with the Fashion shouldn’t cost the Earth, but it textiles sector needs to be ready to play knowledge and experience gained from is on track to consume a quarter of our its part in a cleaner, greener form of SCAP. The new agreement will bring carbon budget by 2050. The industry has a economic growth. the whole UK fashion and textile sector responsibility to set out how it will be a together to identify priorities, introduce net-zero carbon emitter. COVID-19 has damaged the economy, changes, measure progress, influence MARY CREAGH, CHAIR, ENVIRONMENTAL with many fashion and textiles government policy and fast-track AUDIT COMMITTEE 2019 businesses struggling. But despite the circularity – with a focus on hitting the tough economic climate, brands and UN’s 2030 climate targets. retailers continue to demonstrate a commitment to sustainability, with many Textiles 2030 will be the UK’s trailblazer leaders seeing it as key to business for national initiatives on circularity in success in the next decade. Across the other countries, developed in tandem industry we see new business models, with WRAP’s new template and pilot for technical innovations, materials research a replicable Circular Clothing Action Plan. and an upsurge of interest in lease Both will be coordinated with relevant hire, re-use, re-cycling and the circular global initiatives to give businesses economy. The pandemic has heightened worldwide a practical pathway to consumer demand for climate action implementing the targets they adopt and sustainability from the brands for climate and sustainability. they purchase.

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Textiles in the Circular Economy

As the climate emergency intensifies, Collaborative work with SCAP signatories Designing products for longer life and the global textiles industry has helped identify WRAP’s priority areas and recyclability expands, the need for faster, effective, of focus for Textiles 2030. collaborative action on climate change • Making products that are physically is greater than ever. With Textiles 2030, Adopting business models that use a and emotionally more appealing WRAP is already developing a new phase product for longer to the user (e.g. retaining ‘as-new’ of transformation for the UK textile appearance for longer supporting • Adopting a variety of resale models, multiple washes or re-sale)​ sector, focusing on a move away from such as peer-to-peer, resale by ‘take, make, dispose’ towards a circular charities or brands, rental, buy- • Designing products to be readily business model. back/reward and clothing service/ recycled at the end of usable life, subscription​ which may involve technical changes and consumer engagement​ Closing the loop on materials Being part of SCAP enables the Textile • Adopting chemical or mechanical Recycling Association to influence important recycling of materials back into interventions along the entire UK clothing textile fibres supply chain that helps to improve the re-use and recyclability of clothing and • Creating demand through textiles and ultimately will help to deliver design specification a truly sustainable and circular economy for the industry.

ALAN WHEELER – DIRECTOR, TEXTILE RECYCLING ASSOCIATION

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Textiles 2030

What is Textiles 2030? With an official launch in April 2021, the Textiles 2030 is a voluntary agreement. new voluntary agreement builds on the It is funded by its signatories and Textiles 2030 is WRAP’s new learning and success of the Sustainable government. Signatories will be in ground-breaking, expert-led initiative, Clothing Action Plan and aims to engage a position to contribute to national harnessing the knowledge and the majority of UK fashion and textiles textiles policy discussions, responding expertise of UK leaders in sustainability organisations in collaborative action: to government proposals to shape to accelerate the whole industry’s Extended Producer Responsibility and move towards circularity and system • Experienced sustainability leaders, other critical regulatory developments. change in the UK. recycling and re-use organisations and SCAP signatories will collaborate The UK textile sector as ‘Partners’ on fast-tracking the UK collaboration making rapid, Circular Economy science-based progress on circularity and climate action. • Other fashion and textiles Brands and Retailers can sign up as ‘Member’ signatories and benefit from WRAP’s support in achieving a ready-made, science-based, robust climate strategy and measuring their GHG emissions

• Innovators, Ground-breakers, Researchers, Academics and Industry membership groups can join as Affiliates to contribute their expertise

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Technical Note on Methodology and Assurance

Full details of the Footprinting: SCAP signatories report Quality assurance: on signatory data product impact data to WRAP annually is carried out by WRAP and the annual reporting methodology using the SCAP calculator, which is designed progress report is peer-reviewed for is provided in the to enable participants to estimate carbon, integrity before publication. water and waste impacts in a consistent technical report, here: way, and to plan and quantify the potential Consumer behaviour: WRAP developed SCAP 2020 commitment: savings from improvement actions. It also a methodology for establishing the average quantifies environmental savings directly lifespan of clothing as part of its 2012 Progress 2012-2019. attributable to actions they have taken, report Valuing our Clothes which informs relative to a baseline year. The footprint the SCAP calculator, and periodically carries calculator can be used by retailers and out surveys on consumer behaviour and recycling/re-use organisations to model attitudes to clothing during purchase, further improvements on how to achieve wearing, washing, repair, re-use and their climate targets. It will be developed disposal. Where relevant, results are used to further throughout Textiles 2030. update the footprint calculator.

WRAP collates and reports the overall Clothing in Household Residual Waste: carbon, water and waste savings across Signatory data are not used to evaluate all signatories. In measuring progress, a this target which refers to separate waste lifecycle assessment approach is taken, composition analysis at a UK national level. with four stages in scope: Fibre Production, Sensitivity analysis: To improve Processing, Use, and End of Life, following understanding of the results, a sensitivity the general principles of the ISO 14040 analysis is carried out to understand the standard for LCAs. Life cycle assessments potential for assumptions and proxy data to are informed by secondary data which are have a disproportionate effect on results. also quality checked.

WRAP | Sustainable Clothing Action Plan 2020 Commitment Contents 27 What’s next?

Thank you

SCAP concludes on 31 December 2020. WRAP’s vision is a world in which resources are used sustainably. Our mission is to accelerate WRAP would like to thank all the brands, retailers, the move to a sustainable resource efficient recycling organisations, research organisations and economy through re-inventing how we design, individuals who have contributed expertise, time and produce and sell products; re-thinking how we resource to its development and implementation. use and consume products; and re-defining what At this critical moment for the planet and our climate, is possible through re-use and recycling. Find out there can be no pause in our efforts to reduce the more at www.wrap.org.uk impacts of textiles production and consumption. WRAP While we have tried to make sure this report calls on colleagues across the textiles and fashion is accurate, we cannot accept responsibility industry to collaborate anew on Textiles 2030 – with or be held legally responsible for any loss or a circular focus and an ambitious 10 year goal to damage arising out of or in connection with this transform how we buy and consume clothing in the UK. information being inaccurate, incomplete or www.wrap.org.uk/SCAP misleading. This material is copyrighted. You can copy it free of charge as long as the material is Contact SCAP [email protected] accurate and not used in a misleading context. Contact Textiles 2030 [email protected] You must identify the source of the material and acknowledge our copyright. You must not use Company Registration No: 4125764 material to endorse or suggest we have endorsed Charity No: 1159512 a commercial product or service. For more details please see our terms and conditions on our WRAP website at www.wrap.org.uk Second Floor, Blenheim Court, 19 George Street, Banbury, Oxon, OX16 5BH

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