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Centurion Spring 2020 An Indo nesian Odyssey Venturing deep into the country’s outback aboard the newly launched Aqua Blu, Thomas Midulla discovers the hidden promise of a world where nature is king and a sense of blissful solitude is guaranteed Photography by Anthony Do and Ken Kochey Local Moluccan people greet the Aqua Blu from a pair of traditional kora-kora canoes with the forests of CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 79 Banda Neira in the background heir mouths gaping slowly and patiently as they lumber through the water, whale sharks make breakfast time a surprisingly civilised affair. These colossal T creatures – at up to 54 tonnes, the largest fish in the world – gather each morning to feed in this krill-rich bay, a quiet, secluded spot off Moyo island, a near- uninhabited speck of land in the northern reaches of West Nusa Tenggara province. Y ou’d be forgiven for not knowing about this Opposite, Though it took Galli Zugaro more than three years to gather all Indonesian hinterland, its last terra incognita clockwise the necessary permits to navigate these remote waters, the Aqua from top left: – a spot so remote that Lawrence Blair, a snorkelling along Blu – a five-deck, 60m long-range, expedition-class yacht with documentary filmmaker and long-time Batubilah island just 15 sea-facing suites – seems entirely at home here, the very in Komodo explorer of the country’s 17,000-plus islands, National Park; definition of unobtrusive. She was built 52 years ago and named calls it “one of the last wild bits at the bottom an Abui villager HMS Beagle after the ship that carried biologist Charles Darwin on of the garden of our world”. performs a his history-making voyage. Her career began as a coastal surveyor traditional lego- The whale sharks swarm the brightly lego dance in for the Royal Navy, easing into retirement in 2002 when the soon- painted boats of the local fisherman, who Takpala, on Alor to-be-decommissioned vessel was given a new lease on life as a island; looking have been here since the pre-dawn hours out into sea from luxury charter yacht and re-dubbed the MY Titan. to catch krill and squid unawares. The first daybeds on the Her third life began in early 2019. Galli Zugaro purchased the butter-cream rays of sunrise are a cue for the Aqua Blu; Fort Belgica, a 17th- MY Titan for upwards of $12m, and poured some $2.5m into immense spotted fish, who arrive on the scene century structure the refit. Aqua Blu is currently the only luxury expedition yacht just as the nets are hauled in. Man and beast on Banda Neira plying Indonesia all year round, sailing eastwards in the autumn island; below: share the morning’s spoils – and this aquatic a bird’s-eye view and westwards in the spring (always ahead of the big rains). Aqua buffet has more than enough to go around. of Padar island Expeditions offers single-cabin bookings for a trio of voyages to It is well before 6am as we climb aboard either Komodo, Raja Ampat and the Spice Islands on seven-night a pair of tenders to witness this rarefied itineraries departing from Bali, Labuan Bajo, Maumere, Ambon or spectacle. Two whale sharks immediately Sorong. Four times a year, there are unique 12-night voyages that attach themselves to our group. They are a combine all three itineraries. welcome addition to our party, a diverse group of travellers from Australia, the United States, n 16 November 2019, the Aqua Blu is finally ready to Mexico and Germany – all passengers on the O embark on her next adventure. We’re in Serangan, Bali, maiden voyage of the Aqua Blu. For nearly an and as Lawrence Blair is regaling the first guests with tales of hour, it’s just us, the fishermen, the fish and his adventures here in the early 1980s, occasionally quoting lines the gently undulating water beneath us. Not from his bestselling book Ring of Fire: An Indonesian Odyssey, another soul for kilometres in any direction. Galli Zugaro is anxiously awaiting one last signature from the port As the decade closes in, genuine solitude feels authorities before he can fire up the ship’s four Lister Blackstone › more and more like an impossible aspiration. But today, I become reacquainted with the exhilarating sensation of being alone. And this is exactly why Francesco Galli Zugaro, owner and CEO of Aqua Expeditions, created his unique venture, which he launched in the Peruvian Amazon with pair of game-changing, custom-built riverboats back in 2008. In 2014, he set a new standard for river cruising in Southeast Asia, debuting once-in-a-lifetime journeys across Vietnam and Cambodia aboard the Aqua Mekong. His objectives were always clear: to cater to modern-day explorers with tailored, expert-led, small-group excursions; to offer exceptional service, culinary delights and onboard comforts along the way; and to support and promote conservation efforts in the places they travel to. 80 CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM CENTURION-MAGAZINE.COM 81 “We want our guests to be on board and think, ‘I feel comfortable, I feel relaxed.’ I want them to feel like they can let their guard down,” says Galli Zugaro. “It’s not a cold cruise-ship kind of feel. During the refit, we just made better use of the space to create a private-yacht LAND HO! feel. We gave it a modern vibe, combining a classic yacht ambience with a more contemporary, toned-down look.” Of course, as is typical for any Indonesian itinerary, diving and snorkelling figure heavily in the programme – the region is, after all, at the very heart of the Coral Triangle, and the colourful display of rare marine life found here is second to none. Still, Galli Zugaro and his team have poured hours into designing land- based activities that are at least as eye-opening as those taking place below the water’s surface. At Moyo, we hop into a pair of Second World War-era Land Rover Defenders and scale a steep incline to the Mata Jitu waterfall. Here, we take refreshing dips into natural emerald-green pools. Waiting for us along the wall of a remarkable limestone cave are freshly cracked coconuts. The next day, we are kayaking motors and sail – for the first time with a full From left: the along the white-sand beaches of Moyo island. Journeys like this are across a 4,000-year-old crater lake on Satonda island when we are crew onboard – into the great blue beyond. Aqua Blu’s plush always a little unpredictable. suddenly flocked by thousands of startled fruit bats. From top: horses freely roam the beaches at Nihi Sumba; interiors; diving the resort’s Mamole Tree House suite A sense of relief is written all across his into a pool of green “Sometimes you have days where you don’t see exactly what you Later, in the Komodo archipelago, we climb to the highest point face as the first waves crash against the ship’s at the Mata Jitu expect to see, but, you know, it’s all right,” says Galli Zugaro with the on Padar island at sunrise, sharing our appreciation of the stunning waterfall on Moyo asphalt-grey hull. They mark the culmination island; below: joy of man who appreciates nature’s unpredictability. “You can look panorama with a few white-bellied sea eagles. Whether pre- or post-voyage, these of an odyssey, years of navigating financial, a whale shark forward to kicking back, chatting with the other guests or guides, “It’s about always pushing the envelope and thinking outside the two resorts will perfectly anchor your bureaucratic and logistical obstacles. They approaches an having a nice drink, an amazing meal …” he trails off. “And that box. What can we do that’s different?” explains Galli Zugaro. “That, Aqua Blu tender Indonesian adventure also mark the start of a breathtaking journey. could be an incredible wagyu-beef pastrami appetiser prepared for me, is the fun part. Going where no one’s gone. I call it ‘nine- The maiden voyage will take us northeast 48 hours sous vide, followed by an even better smoked short-rib to-five adventure’. People want to go out and sweat and get dirty across the Wallace Line, the faunal boundary beef rendang.” (Onboard meals were dreamt up by Bali-based as long as they can come back to plenty of hot water, nice service, a When in Bali ... pools. There’s a quintet It’s been nearly 25 years between Asian and Australasian ecozones, consulting chef Ben Cross.) tasty meal and good conversation.” of intriguing restaurants, since its unveiling, but including Kaboku, for and down the Lombok Strait, a 35km-wide We make a sharp, hairpin turn into Horseshoe Bay at the The Legian Seminyak’s fresh-caught seafood passage connecting the Pacific and Indian ife on board is very laid-back. At the first light of dawn, southernmost tip of nearby Rinca island. Aboard the tender, star still shines brighter served omakase-style, and passengers emerge, barefoot, from their suites wearing Oceans that is known for its extreme currents. L surrounded by playing dolphins, we patrol its shores. On a beach than ever, offering up a the sandy-floored Ombak, During the first night, the quantum zero- T-shirts, shorts or bathing suits, ready for breakfast at the sky bar. far removed from the ranger station that caters to the day tourists, handsome clutch of 67 for à la carte breakfast and speed stabiliser earns its stripes, and I’m Throughout the day you’ll find them taking in magnificent views we spot two gigantic Komodo dragons slowly making their way suites – each with striking convivial sunset barbecues.
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