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A DRIA N P A UL E GE SC HIE SS A RT CARL C OLLE C TION

A NDRE FREIBURGER Grafische Republik

P HIL MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE SIMS

AnzeigeDONA U4 LD N.N. JUDD

MIC HA Ł MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS BUDNY AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE FRE D SANDBACK Collection of contemporary art MA RC IA at the Kunstraum Alexander Bürkle Freiburg i.B. HA FIF JOSE P H ISBN 978-3-9819717-3-6 peac.digital EDITION 2019

MA RIONI Nominal price €3.50 Dear Readers

Bubbling “Bächle” (gutters) along the Old Town’s streets, ­bustling market life around the medieval Münster ­(Cathedral), the Lange Rote sausage and Baden wine, sunny­ spots between the and Alsace ... Freiburg is ­exactly what everyone expects. But also much more.

The southernmost major city in is growing at a dynamic pace. Its 230,000 residents are, on average, much younger than in other cities, creating a special feeling of a vibrant metropolis in the border triangle ­between Germany, France, and Switzerland. Baden hospitality is no longer just the good old-fashioned wine tavern and beer garden under a blue sky; urban street food has long since joined the scene. And while the pedestrian areas in the center boast well-known stores and designer shops, alternative neighborhoods, such as Stühlinger, draw you in with fresh business ideas, niche products, and specialties. The city, which is proud of the number of sunny days it sees, also makes the nights shine in numerous movie theaters, clubs, and lounges. Music is everywhere – from hip hop and jazz to sympho- David Schultheiß ny concerts in dignified halls. Operas, dances, and plays find their place on Left Freiburg’s stages, just as cabaret shows do. And beyond the well-trodden tourist paths, works of art that are as astonishing as those in renowned ­museums and galleries await discovery in the public urban space.

Cover FWTM / Antal · Stereotypes fail where a laid-back ease meets dynamism, tranquility meets

urbanity, tradition meets the future, culture meets party life – and the re- sults are fabulous. This is why the second edition of this magazine also takes a look at the different facets of a city made so unique because of its con- trasts and contradictions: our Freiburg.

Happy reading! With warm regards from

the FREIBURGER team Freiburg Wirtschaft Touristik und Messe GmbH & Co. KG

All that Freiburg needs to give it a completely Mediterranean feeling is direct access to the sea. Nevertheless, water is always there in some way on our tour through the city: from the relaxing Dreisam, the rippling street gutters and swimming lakes, surf- ing in the ­Dreisam valley, to a gigantic garden hose in the colorful Stühlinger district. N.N. / Titelmotiv:

1 A DRIA N P A UL SC HIE SS E GE Contents A RT CARL C OLLE C TION A NDRE FREIBURGER

Grafische Republik Grafische You may have spotted the bright red cross on the cover of our magazine: P HIL MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE SIMS Perhaps it’s there to reflect the city’s coat of arms? Or maybe it’s an X

AnzeigeDONA U4 LD N.N. to mark the spot? Is it there to catch the eye or make a statement? Or JUDD MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS MIC HA Ł AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE maybe it’s all of these things? We think that it’s the ideal symbol for 21st BUDNY century Freiburg because it can mean so many different things at once: FRE D SANDBACK history and fresh starts, the familiar and the unknown, local hospitality MA RC IA Collection of contemporary art

at the Kunstraum Alexander Bürkle and scathing defiance. There are many sides to Freiburg, from tiny alley- ISBN Freiburg i.B. HA FIF 978-3-9819717-3-6

JOSE P H EDITION 2019 ways to soaring towers. Join us on our tour of discovery! Nominal price Nominal peac.digital MA RIONI €3.50 FWTM / Rommler

Cultural Life

30 So Much Drama A Visit to Large and

FWTM / Spiegelhalter 42 Small Theaters

34 Tennis Shoe Tango & Dance Fountain The Blue Bridge shows the way Freiburg Dances in the Streets into Stühlinger.

36 See Differently, See Different Things … A Foray into Contemporary Art

40 “Walls Are a City’s Diary” An Interview with the Artist Tom Brane

42 Full of Energy District Profile: Stühlinger FWTM / Antal 36

Contemporary Art in Freiburg – l FWTM / Reinke

10 a Gallery Tour Theater Freiburg / Laura Nicke Theater Freiburg 30 An Amble Escaping the Through Freiburg Daily Grind “La Bohème” and other relationships on Freiburg’s stages 6 Sometimes Forever 20 Freiburg at the Water Hiking and Wellness at Freiburg’s Local Mountain

10 In Your Hands! 26 From the Heavens on Wheels Delicacies en passant Through the Dreisam Valley on a Longboard

14 All the Time in the World for Flawless Precision Stone by Stone 12

20 FWTM / Antal

2 3 – UPRIVER – Freiburg’s Bächle surely rank among the Seven Wonders of 01 Freiburg. Over a total length of 15.5 km, of which 6.4 is below ground, the water also flows through the smallest alleys of the Old Town. What is now cherished city decoration was, begin- ning in the 12th century, a sophisticated water supply system. The existing public fountains were not enough to supply the An Amble growing population. Water was therefore diverted into the city from Bromberg and the Dreisam in small canals. Over time, the Bächle have been ordered closed many times: The Bächle are a hindrance to traffic, an injury hazard, etc. ... How nice that Through some orders simply wash away unexplained. Freiburg © FWTM / Spiegelhalter

4 5 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

Certainly, there are more imposing streams than Sometimes Freiburg’s gentle Dreisam, but few are as fiercely loved. From spontaneous party to the playground, from young and old, from east to west, this river brings the city Forever together.­

One bold theory about Freiburg’s population growth is Author: Jürgen Uhl based on the superstition that, if you step into one of these numerous Bächle, you will be stuck in Freiburg. … the fact is that those who have the pleasu- Accidentally, of course! Only those who ­accidentally fall in re of getting to know the waters of Freiburg will sooner or later marry a charming Freiburger. tend to actually stay longer than planned. – It’s a nice thought, but … Sometimes even forever. If you dare to get away from the hustle and bustle of the Here is paradise, over there is urbanity hectic city center and the main tourist hot spots, you will discover natural wellness oa- On the Uferweg, just a few hundred meters ses and enchanting meeting places where upriver, the colorful graffiti on the walls people of all ages get together. Thus, many lend a big-city flair. Exercise some cauti- hour-long pauses, or even just a lunch bre- on at this point, because the scene opposite ak, turn into a timeless period of rest and is likewise urban, although it can get a bit relaxation. uncomfortable for pedestrians at times. On

Right FWTM / Schoenen One popular way to dive into the Drei- some days, a staggering 15,000 cyclists use sam is located directly below the corner of the Radvorrangroute FR1, where bicycles Dreisamstrasse and Luisensteg, attracting have priority. Some sections are therefore more than just young couples with its flo- reserved exclusively for cyclists, and, espe- ral, curved railing where many “love locks” cially in the area of the Schwabentorbrücke have been latched over the years. On the things get really cramped.

onkeybusiness / shutterstock · swing anchored below the jetty, which is The situation changes, however, just a sto- accessible to everyone, you can float re- ne’s throw away, upriver in the Oberau dis- Left m

gally over the Black Forest waters, and the trict. Tall, shady trees, handsome city ho- numerous wooden benches and watersi- mes, and, across the way, Freiburg’s Ganter de coves invite you to end the day with a brewery with its casual Wodan beer garden cool Freiburg beer or Baden wine. During line the river all the way up to the Sand- the hot summers, we see just as many bot- fang. Mostly young people and families get tlenecks as naked legs poking out from the away and frolic about here next to alpine merrily murmuring water. cairns. Just a bit further in the direction of Schwarzwald-Stadion, the term Health- Region Freiburg begins to noticeably come to life with Joggers, cyclists, and people about town. »

During the long summer, all of Freiburg is at – or in – the water. Along the Dreisam, at the lakes, in the Bächle, or in the open-air swimming pools ... There are many inviting locations to cool off, and each is unique. Time for a little spin!

6 7 AN FREIBURGERAMBLE THROUGH STREIFZÜGE FREIBURG Q&A: Freiburg My favorite spots at the Water 4 Tips for enjoying the summer in and at Freiburg’s waterways

Flückiger See Freiburg’s largest swimming lake is located in the Betzen­ hausen district. There is a place for everyone at the Seepark, on the grounds of the former horticultural Simon Schneckenburger Miriam Kaltenbach Lukas Naegele exhibition­ (Landesgarten­ Simon Schneckenburger (28) filmed As the Baden Wine Queen, she wears The professional marathon runner grew schau) site: students, nudists, his first movie at just 13 in his parents’ a very special crown and represents up near the Schwarzwald-Stadion. families, and more. attic. Since last fall, the winner of the the southernmost wine-growing area in The Freiburg Marathon is one of his Divers might even find a Nachwuchsfilmpreis award for up-and- Germany at home and abroad. ­­ ­annual highlights. His record: four-time sunken pirate ship at depths coming filmmakers has been studying This winegrower grew up around ­participant, four-time winner. Here he of more than 20 meters! scenic direction at the Film Academy the family vineyard. discusses his top 3 places in Freiburg. Baden-Württemberg. “Wine connoisseurs and anyone who “In Freiburg, there is something that “The Kandelhof-Kino is truly one of wants to experience our Baden way of is found in very few cities around the Lake Tunisee And please don’t be alarmed if profession- my favorite places and served as my life up close must visit the Alte Wache world: You are in a city, but somehow Alemannic plants and flowers A place for waterskiing, wake­ al soccer players from SC Freiburg cross second home for a long time. I worked at Münsterplatz. Here you can relax surrounded by nature. For me as a boarding, diving, swimming, your path or go for a lap – the SC stadium In the opposite direction, in the western as a film projectionist there for five and sample your way through the runner, that is ideal. The Schlossberg and camping, all in one. is nearby and, like many things in Freiburg, district of Betzenhausen, you will find the years. In the past, there were always Baden world of wine. Mulled wine, the (456 m) is one of my favorite places. North of Freiburg, locals and a bit less pretentious and more approach- Seepark grounds created at the Flückiger art house films to see there. Today, partially fermented young wine known Even if I don’t have much time, I can vacationers alike meet for a able than elsewhere. Generally speak- See for the 1986 Landesgartenschau exhi- they also enjoy showing French com- as Neuer Süßer, or a wine slushie always squeeze in a run to the Schloss- jump into the cool water. ing, nobody interested in the training bition. Lounging about in the manicured edies. I only discovered the rather called the Kalte Sofie, as well as a large berg. The view is motivation enough. www.tunisee.de grounds, located directly next to Schwarz­ sunbathing areas is great, but missing out hidden Botanical Garden quite late, selection of Baden wines: definitely Another run that I have done a million wald-Stadion, will be denied a tour. on the various things to do around the lake even though it is right around the worth checking out! My home, the times is the path up to the Rosskopf. would be a shame. For example, a Japa- ­corner from my apartment. I like to Wildtal in Gundelfingen, is situated The length is ideal; I just need about If you aren’t up for some soccer and the wa- nese garden was constructed behind the rest there, lying under the large coni­ right in front of the gates of Freiburg. 20 minutes to get to the top. The way The Dreisam ter level of the river is too low to do some lavish lake restaurant Lago in cooperati- fers and reading or writing a book. The restaurant Sonne serves culinary up to the 34-meter observation tower as it was before freestyle turns, then relax right next door on with Freiburg’s Japanese sister city of I also enjoy the various climate zones. creations and Baden wines from near- is particularly nice in the fall because At Café Pow, I like that so many differ- by vineyards. Creative, down-home, there is often a weather inversion, The Dreisam meanders freely at Freiburg’s largest swimming pool, the Matsuyama. The lake path leads past the Miriam Kaltenbach, Lukas Naegele Simon Schneckenburger, again by the Kartauswiesen Strandbad, which has water slides for chil- community center and the cozy beer gar- ent things are on offer: from theater delicious – you get spoiled at the leaving Freiburg seemingly cloaked in meadows, between the dren and the young at heart. All of that den to the Seepark tower. Just a few me- to summer movies, and from readings Sonne. Homemade treats can be found cotton. My final tip: the Hausbrauerei in the farm shops in the villages around Feierling. They have a tasty house beer Sandfang and Schwarzwald-­ sounds suspiciously like vacation. There’s ters away, the Ökostation, or eco station, to exhibitions. There is so much heart and soul behind it. They are always Freiburg. Marmalades, farmhouse with a pleasant, relaxed atmosphere.” Stadion. The restored river­ no need to visit the sea here. If you want instructs visitors about sustainable ways thinking up new things. And the rear bread, goat cheese, and Black Forest bed is a popular place for to enjoy your coffee right on the prome- to live. It sounds a bit academic, but it is an garden is just absolutely cozy!” ham … Visit the Baldenwegerhof in the nature lovers of all ages to nade, Freiburg offers any number of wate- easy and practical experience because of Dreisam valley – a true experience!” enjoy themselves. ring holes. The Waldsee provides an espe- the many activities, from a clothes-swap- cially idyllic place to do so. The name says ping party to the “green classroom.” One Pictures Left FWTM / Lohmüller Profile

it all: The Waldsee, or forest lake, is see- more quarter turn of the clock hand around Kandelhof-Kino Alte Wache  Schlossberg Freiburg mingly enchanted, with boat rental op- the lake turns your own body into a clock Kandelstrasse 27 Münsterplatz 38 Restaurant: www.dattler.de Waldsee tions along the forest edge bordering the hand on a tiled sundial. Anyone who thinks www.friedrichsbau-kino.de www.alte-wache.com www.schlossberg-bahn.de Pedal along on chic pedal Waldsee city district between Wiehre and this is worth seeing, if a bit too educational, boats here under the Black Littenweiler. Right next to the dark water can whistle a song in honor of Breisgau Bay Botanical Garden Restaurant Sonne Wildtal  Rosskopf  Forest firs.The excursion spot is the large terrace of the Waldsee restau- at the Seefest (Lake Festival) at the end of Schänzlestrasse 1 Talstrasse 80 · 79194 Gundelfingen Near the city, approx. 450 meters in height of the same name beckons rant. Here you can enjoy true Baden dishes. July. Accompanied by fireworks, live music, www.botanischer-garten.uni-freiburg.de www.sonnewildtal.com www.visit.freiburg.de/en/outdoors-active visitors with its shady terrace, On Sundays there is brunch, Tuesdays offer lots of hoopla, a magic light show, an un- Baden cooking and “Jazz without Stress,” and every other day checked feeling of being on vacation, and evening grooves. has live music or DJs. lots of that southern feeling. × Café Pow Baldenweger Hof  Hausbrauerei Feierling www.waldsee-freiburg.de Belfortstrasse 52 Wittentalstrasse 1 · 79252 Stegen Gerberau 46 www.gruenhof.org/cafe-pow www.baldenwegerhof.de www.feierling.de

8 9 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

From A to Z in Your Hands: From Apple to Every city has its own spe- Zwiebelkuchen cialties and culinary institu- tions that you simply have to try and discover. In Frei- burg, the “In Your Hands!” made up of merchants selling a wide ran- The history of the farmer’s mar- category definitely includes ge of delicacies, souvenirs, and consumer ket goes back to the year 1120, a “Lange Rote” sausage goods. Your foray from stand to stand is ac- when the city was authorized to hold markets. Almost everything companied by tantalizing scents that lead at the Münstermarkt (far- was traded here, and to ensure you to discover the farmer's market’s num- mer‘s market around the that it was all in order, the me- ber one specialty: the Lange Rote im Weck- dieval standard measures were Cathedral), a coffee and le. You should be prepared for the question carved in stone at the entrance a pain au chocolat at Café “With or without onions?”; there is no time hall to the cathedral, which are for discussion or consideration. If you feel Marcel at the Stadtgarten still visible today. (Municipal Park), and a like something else, there is no cause for alarm. Just a few steps further you can find what­ ever-you-feel-like­ at the fish or meatless alternatives, such as freshly Markthalle (Market Hall). prepared tofu snacks and fine pastries. In Farmer’s market any case, food right “in your hands” means open daily except for Sundays Author: Ute Battig so much more here than almost anywhe- and holidays; Mon – Fri 7:30 a.m. – re else. An experience that stretches from 1:30 p.m., Sat 7:30 a.m. – 2 p.m. spring well into the fall and that only gets www.münstermarkt.freiburg.de better during the grape harvest. Once the Sample tour of the Freiburg first grapes have made it to the market, the- farmer’s market as well as Many residents of Freiburg begin a per- re will soon be Zwiebelkuchen (onion tarts), other culinary tours fect day at the crack of dawn by visiting the neuer Süßer (partially fermented young April through October, Münstermarkt 1 , were a “wishing table” of wine), or Kretzer rosé wines, as well as ho- Meeting point, Saturday, 11 a.m., delicacies opens from Monday to Saturday memade apple juice. Not tied to the season Rathausplatz in front of the starting at 7:30 a.m. Fruit, vegetables, mus- and worth every sweet temptation is the Tourist Information office Bender / hrooms, herbs, honey and marmalades, cheesecake known as Stefans Käsekuchen. www.freiburgerleben.com farmhouse bread, cheeses, sausage, and It’s best to preorder or be quite early, as meat specialties, nuts, exotic fruits, olives, they run out fast. » Stefans Käsekuchen Freiburger Münsterplatz, Tues – Sat, and antipasti are all for the taking, accom- 8 a.m. – 1:30 p.m. panied by flowers, decorative art, and all www.stefans-kaesekuchen.de sorts of other things. The setup follows a clear structure: looking at the main entran- Café Marcel Im Stadtgarten 1 ce, to the left you have regional providers www.cafemarcel.de with locally grown and handmade products,

FWTM / Antal · Düpper Strass Café Herrenstrasse 44 while the right side of the market is largely

10 11 AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

9

Last, but not least: fast-food “classics”

With all due respect for balanced mar- ket and vegetable dishes, fast-food clas- sics are also of excellent quality in Frei- burg. For currywurst with or without french fries, head over to Curry & Fritz 8 ­, while the FreiBurger 9 and the Burger Chalet 10 are popular destinations for a handmade deluxe hamburger. Here the ba- sics hold true. Hot and greasy is no longer enough. As a result, the different burger op- tions are more about pure taste and mood. The recipe for success: crispy buns from the city baker, 100% best regional ground beef, homemade sauces, fresh items daily, and a hefty dose of creativity. Vegetarian options are not a problem, and special requests are fulfilled whenever possible. × Left © FWTM / Cozort · Antal Right Felix Groteloh

From inside to outside: high noon at the “Freiburger Fressgässle” Stadtgarten

2 First or second breakfast? pizza, and tarte flambée are also available, Leopoldring Once the market tour is finished, a com- of course. Where once stood the printing fortable spot in a deck chair might be the presses of the Badische Zeitung newspaper, Karlsplatz right spot for a little break. Café Marcel 2 , there now stands a sort of culinary door to Europaplatz Siegesdenkmal in the Stadtgarten (Municipal Park) direct- the world. You can eat at standing tables, strasse e Weber Hermannstrass ly by the entrance to the Schlossbergbahn the service is fast, and the rarely quiet back- Nussmannstrasse DATES FOR GOURMETS AND GOURMANDS

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t ark lzm Ho Rempartstrasse AN AMBLE THROUGH FREIBURG

All the Time in the Being a mason is something very special. It is one of the oldest professions in existence. World­ for The tools used to work the stone are the stonemason’s hammer, the mallet, and the pointed chisel. Both apprentices hammer Flawless away on their practice pieces in this work- shop. In the last few days, Luca has carved lettering into the reddish mottled sand- Precision stone, which is accurate to the design. He is working on a pedestal, and the tasks he has to handle are still simple. At some point, Neues Bild Author: Antigone Kiefner however, his work will be placed some- where on the cathedral. He has just com- hier oder Folgeseite pleted a knob. “It will be placed on the fin- ial soon,” he declares proudly. Maya, too, is learning to work on a practice block made Constant tapping, hammering, of red sandstone. She just began training and drilling – stone sculptures, recently and is still amazed and excited. ­reliefs, and parts of the faca- Both are overjoyed to work here and see it de of the ­Freiburg Cathedral are as a privilege to give their best every day to Freiburg’s Cathedral workshop. They help ­renewed, repaired, or rebuilt in to maintain the monumental sacral struc- the time-­honored Münsterbau- ture with a great deal of love for the details. hütte (Cathe­dral workshop). Stonemasons fight against The Cathedral workshop has the stone’s decay

­existed for over 800 years and The cathedral – a Gothic architectural is one of the most historic stone masterpiece – is crumbling in many places ­masonry businesses in Germany. because exhaust damages the stonework, Maya Thyssen and Luca Stöhr the pillars, figures, balustrades, and finials. Stonemasons and stone carvers are locked are currently in training and rave in a constant fight against the decay of the about the profession. sandstone. This race has been going on for over one hundred years. Work at the Ca- thedral workshop is performed with dust masks and ear plugs. » FWTM / Bender Münsterbauverein © Freiburger

14 15 AN FREIBURGERAMBLE THROUGH STREIFZÜGE FREIBURG

The Freiburg Cathedral tower has been without scaffolding again since the fall of 2018, thanks to the excellent work of the stone- masons and stone carvers. The Cathedral workshop, with an annual budget of around 2.5 million euros, is financed via a great deal of private donations, among other sources.

There is incredible noise in the workshop, says Luca, who finds the work to be a sort where pneumatic tools are also used. “We of meditation. “I can sink completely into apprentices are always wetting the floor it while I think about everything else,” he so that it does not become too dusty,” the explains. Both are happy to learn the vari- two explain. Maya comes from Great Brit- ous techniques that can be used to bring a ain, or, more accurately, from Canterbury, stone to life. Hit for hit, you carve from the so she knows her way around a cathedral. material and wrest the perfect shape out of She greatly enjoys life in Freiburg and the it with a great deal of patience and sweat. mild climate. She loves the wisteria along Working at the Cathedral workshop is like Konviktstrasse, which rise up the walls being carried away and out of time. And, in of homes and give off a sweet scent. Luca, actuality, the time factor plays a very dif- Exhausting “stonemason yoga” Virgin of Mercy and the and tired legs in the evening seven deadly sins whose father was already a journeyman ferent role. Plenty of stamina and a lot of stonemason at the Cathedral workshop, patience for the details are necessary for Work begins at seven o’clock, at the crack Maya’s favorite figure is the Virgin of Mer- gushes about the collegiate flair and vil- precise work. “Accuracy is the most import- of dawn. The workday is long; it doesn’t fin- cy in the south entrance, which dates to the lage-like character of Freiburg. ant thing,” explain Maya and Luca. “It is ish until 5 p.m. At the beginning of their 14th century and spreads her cloak for peo- an incredible privilege to be able to take so training, Maya and Luca fell into bed dead- ple seeking aid. Luca is fascinated by the The Cathedral shop is located Hitting with feeling for much time here so that, in the end, the re- tired in the evenings. Work as a stonema- seven figures between the window gables the perfect shape behind the Freiburg Cathedral Working at the sult is a flawless product.” The clock seems on Herrenstrasse. Here you son is exhausting. Standing in particular of the octagon above the tower room and Cathedral­ work- Both apprentices are fascinated by their to tick along to another unit of measure at can browse to your heart’s goes right into your bones. “And then all the belfry. They represent the seven deadly work and tell their stories with bright eyes. the Cathedral workshop. This leaves room the contorting you have to do,” laughs Luca. sins as fake gargoyles. “One of the figures shop is like being content, obtain information, Above all else, they enjoy the accuracy re- for an intense, personal encounter with the or simply buy beautiful gift “I always call that ‘stonemason yoga.’” Luca is modeled after an old master craftsman,” carried away and quired. “You have to work very precisely; stone and the centuries-old history of the items and support the work of has recently been working on the Cathe- grins Luca. One has the sense that, during out of time. And, in each strike of the iron into the stone must cathedral. the Cathedral workshop. dral tower in the gallery and on the visitor the Middle Ages, a lot of everyday gossip hit true,” says Maya. Hitting correctly and platform, where he is filling holes. It is im- could be expressed through the figures. actuality, the time with feeling using a stonemason’s hammer Tour of the portant to close the gaps so that no water Maya and Luca are getting back to work factor plays a very or mallet, a type of hammer, will decide the Cathedral workshop can penetrate into the red sandstone, be- now. The red sandstone awaits. And with different role. Plenty surface structure of the stone, the corn- Length: approximately cause sandstone is like a sponge that sucks it, the stonemason’s hammer, mallet, and ers, the edges, and the correct angle. Red 45 minutes up water into its cavities. pointed chisel. × of stamina­ and a lot sandstone always gives honest feedback. Every Saturday at 1 p.m. of patience for the “You see instantly when you have done Meeting point: Cathedral shop details are neces- something wrong,” says Maya. It is also Herrenstrasse 30, 6 or 4 euros, fun to make something with your hands. respectively sary when precisely “At the end of the day, you see the results Maps available on-site Left © FWTM / Bender · Right Antigone Kiefner

­shaping the stone. of what you have created. It is satisfying,” www.muensterbauverein-freiburg.de

16 17 Uncovered Riches Made in Freiburg

In addition to numerous kinds of If you want to experience Freiburg’s Only those who call Freiburg home honey, you can find the best items Bächle in proper style, you can’t go can call themselves ­“Bobbele,” and made with honey here – from choc- wrong with a Bächle boat. This ma- you have to marry one if you step olate, cookies, and gingerbread, to kes the shopping trip fun for even into a Bächle. For out-of-towners, soap and candles. the little ones. there are also Bobbele for snacking.

Honig-Galerie Heldt REHA-Laden Café Schmidt 02– NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP– Münsterplatz 28 Corner of Münsterstrasse / Bertoldstrasse 19a www.honiggalerie.de Kaiser-Joseph-Strasse www.cafeschmidt.de www.reha-laden.de Escaping the Daily Grind FWTM / Antal

One euro from each Münster salami­ Regionally brewed craft beer From screws to watering cans, from goes to the Freiburg Münster­ is available right next to the lawnmowers to charcoal – over bauverein in order to preserve the ­Augustinermuseum. If you’ve had 8,000 practical products can be monument – a regional specialty on enough of wine, this is the place for found here. A paradise for do-it- many levels. you. yourselfers and those with green thumbs.

Obere Metzgerei Craftbeer Lodge Being up in the sky, smelling the mountain air, and feeling the tailwinds – around Freiburg, Franz Winterhalter Oberlinden 10 Luitpold Bauer you will find many opportunities to escape the city bustle for awhile and explore the impressive Oberlinden 25 Bertoldstrasse 27 www.craftbeer-lodge.com © belongs to the vendor in question · Right Images of products vastness of the landscape. Whether on long hiking paths or more unconventional trails,

www.obere-metzgerei.eu www.luitpold-bauer.de Left

everyone determines their own speed and personal threshold.

18 19 NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

Such great heights Schau

Author: Ute Battig

Having the sky so close and ins being one with nature – ­experience what that ­means in concrete terms and how that feels in any number of ways on the heights of the Land Schauinsland mountain. There are very ­different goals in doing so, and ­there are many creating stability. The view is mesmerizing both in the summer and winter, and it quickly beco- ways to get there ... mes evident how pleasantly soothing the vast- ness and climate are up here. Viewed from this angle, the Schauinsland provides an exciting du- ality: a rare, primordial natural experience and, Schauinsland, or “look-into-the-country,” is not at the same time, a spacious amusement park named by chance. After all, Freiburg can boast with almost limitless possibilities. You can expe- about being the city with the biggest differen- rience living history at the Museums­bergwerk 1 ce in elevation: At an impressive height of 1,284 (­Mining ­Museum) below ground or by visiting the meters, the summit of Freiburg’s local moun- 400-year-old­ Bauernhausmuseum­ Schniederlihof tain provides a fantastic panoramic view of the 2 (Schniederlihof Farmhouse Museum). Dis- city and the surrounding countryside. From cover the many species of flora almost in passing up here, the views are of a storybook Black Fo- on the various hiking trails and, if you are lucky, rest idyll when the weather is good and the air spot the shy wood grouse and hazel grouse. The is ­clear. Alps, Feldberg, Belchen, Blauen, Rhine range of possible activities is varied and diverse vertpixxelt/AdobeStock plains, Vosges, Kaiserstuhl – the mountain range all year round – from Nordic walking and biking on the horizon seems to be perfect for a classic or downhill scooters and paragliding to downhill lesson in geography. Rough winds blow on the and cross-country skiing as well as snowshoeing ridge at times, as evidenced by the weathered in winter. » beech trees with their characteristic silhouette. They brave the storms with strong roots aimed west, while the trunk and branches face east,

20 21 21 NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP Freiburg-Günterstal City Center

Valley Station 474 m

Above the clouds: if there is a dense fog hanging in the valley­ during the winter, then the Schauinslandbahn is the ideal getaway­ vehicle.

St. Ulrich 7 6

panoramic circular paths. If you want to go S ch downhill, you have your choice of a well- au ins Towards the heavens lan 4 ds marked hiking path or a more demanding tra sse / L1 Going sky-high with the 24 Sun Observatory trip on a downhill scooter as an alterna- 2 Schauinslandbahn­ tive to the cable car. The latter takes a bit Eugen-Keidel Tower The easiest way to climb the heights is to of courage, as it goes quite fast downhill Schauinsland Engländer- ride the Schauinslandbahn cable car. The on gravel roads, but it gets easier towards 1.284 m denkmal 1 cableway Talstation at Bohrer in Hor- the end. In order to make sure that every- Mountain Station 3 ben can be reached by car or : Line 21 thing goes alright, there is a comprehensive 1220 m from Freiburg Günterstal. From here, briefing before setting out, and thescooter ­ 2

you travel in cabins with a 360° view up guide rides with you into the valley. At a N Steinwasen Park to the Bergstation, which is located at 1,220 medium speed, it takes about a half hour. Oberried Good to know: meters, a little below the summit. The old- Going on foot takes considerably more Antal · flickr/bebatut Franz Rees With the municipal transport / 1 est circulating cableway in the world and time, and it also might depend on whether Hofsgrund Museumsbergwerk company Freiburger VAG to the longest in Germany to this and how long the sun will shine on the ter- Schauinslandstrasse 390 · 79254 Oberried

Horben: Tram line 2 from city © FWTM day spans a length of 3,600 meters and tra- race of the Holzschlägermatte 4 . This loca- www.schauinsland.de center/Bertoldsbrunnen to last verses an altitude difference of around 750 tion is one of the most popular destinations stop Günterstal; bus line 21 2 Schniederlihof meters. If you book a culinary ascent, you around the city, especially in the fall with from Günterstal to Horben / Tal- Farmhouse Museum will be welcomed to the cabin with a glass weather inversion conditions. » station or Horben / Rathaus Gegendrumweg 3 · 79254 Oberried of sparkling wine and enjoy a delicious pic- St. Wilhelm www.vag-freiburg.de 3 Die Bergstation nic on the way up. This delightful trip takes  Schauinslandstrasse 390 around 20 minutes and promises wonder- Technical tours of the 5 79254 Oberried · www.diebergstation.de ful views as you float along with select de- Schauinslandbahn Münstertal/Staufen 4 Holzschlägermatte Open tours while the cableway lectable treats. If you miss this opportuni-  3 Schauinslandstrasse 359 · 79100 Freiburg is running every Sunday, ty, a stop at the Bergstation restaurant www.holzschlaegermatte.de 3 p.m. Register up to 30 provides an opportunity to refresh your- Notschrei self before taking the last 85 steps up to ­minutes before it starts at the 5 Die Halde Talstation counter or up to the Eugen-Keidel­ Tower. From here, a view A delightful trip that takes Halde 2 · 79254 Oberried-Hofsgrund 24 hours beforehand by tele- opens up that is worth enjoying at length www.halde.com Summit Circular Trail phone: +49 761 4511-777 and in all directions. Afterwards, you can around 20 minutes and 4.4 km, approx. 2 hrs of walking time 6 Eckhof Eisdiele make a detour to the Engländerdenkmal,  promises wonderful views as Eckhofweg 1 · 79289 Horben Talstation Schauinslandbahn which is a memorial for English school- www.eckhof-schwarzwald.de children who perished on the mountain you float along with select Bohrerstrasse 11, 79289 Horben Downinsland Scooter Trail 7 Gerstenhalmstüble www.schauinslandbahn.de on a trip in the 1930s, or any number of delectable treats. 8 km, 750 m (vertical)  St. Ulrich 28 · 79283 Bollschweil www.gerstenhalmstueble.de

22 23 “ Experiencing nature, culture, history, cuisine, and sports – Schauinsland offers a broad range of things to do and you are always sure to find something­ new! ”

Rest and relaxation

The other side of Schauinsland

By taking a step away from the popular desti­ nations, you can experience another side of the Schauinsland as a boundless natural idyll wrapped in soothing silence and appearing in its wild natural state away from all the hustle and bustle. If you like, you can spend most of your time here virtually alone and completely Or, if you want to do things more simply, go undisturbed to indulge in your spontaneous on a spontaneous day trip at any time by car thoughts. To discover the Schauinsland in this or bus 21 to the Horben Rathaus station and, way, you can book an overnight stay according from there, take the winding paths up to St. Ul- to your preferences and budget or – even bet- rich. You will occasionally encounter like-min- ter – a few days at the Halde 5 , combining im- ded people, but you will be on your own for mersive experiences in nature with the excep- long stretches, at most being eyed curious- tionally comfortable luxury of an exclusive ly by grazing cattle, horses, or goats, depen- mountain spa, excellent cuisine, and a cozy ding on the season. From the Gasthaus Buck- ambiance. This building, steeped in traditi- hof parking lot, you can either continue uphill on, is operated in a first-class manner, but it along the paved road, or take a forest walk has remained down-to-earth in its soul. Here, lined with wooden sculptures to get some ice SCHAUINSLAND THREE DIFFERENT WAYS a plain and authentic human touch is what cream at the Eckhof Eisdiele 6 and then up counts, making the place what it is. In a nuts- to the ­ridge. The Gerstenhalmstüble 7 , an in- hell, this means twice the comfort. Of course, veterate original, is located about 200 meters Schauinsland Mystery Walk there are also less expensive accommodations, below the trail parking lot and boasts a patio Outdoor escape for puzzle and hiking enthusiasts. which are no less relaxing. that seems to float like a basket over the val- Start and end point: Talstation Schauinslandbahn ley offering a magnificent view of Bollschweil, Belchen, and Blauen. You can also reach this www.berggeheimnis.com restaurant directly by car, but it would just be Reinhard End · Christoph Düpper End · Christoph Düpper Reinhard a shame to arrive this way, since your platter / Downinsland scooter trail Schauinsland of cold meat and sausage tastes so much better 5 when you have earned it honestly. × © HALDE On a high-tech rental scooter, you can travel into the valley on the longest scooter trail in Europe from May to October.

www.rollerstrecke.de

NaTour pur Guided tours and snowshoe tours of the Schauinsland-Feld- berg-Belchen-Münster valley area to the Dreisam valley. www.natourpur-schauinsland.de

24 25 NATURE ON YOUR DOORSTEP

From the

Made in Freiburg: In his skate shop, Hartmut Olp sells Heavens ­handmade­­ longboards under the label “Hackbrett.” Freiburg Central Station Longboarding is considered a fun sport and 274 m üNN a stylish means of transportation at the Altstadt Surfing on asphalt instead of waves ... same time. In Freiburg, longboarding A 14-kilometer cycling path runs here that At the beginning of the 1960s, surfers are is known outside of Freiburg by those acti- Wiehre fans surf from Himmelreich through the said to have mounted axles and roller ska- ve in the scene. To reach the starting point, Schlossberg Dreisam valley into the city center. te wheels onto self-built boards in order to simply take a relaxing trip by train to Him- The good news: Himmelreich is close ride on asphalt instead of water. The ad- melreich on the Höllentalbahn. From Layback Skateshop Right Layback Skateshop and longboarding is easy to learn. vantage? You don’t have to wait on waves, ­there, it’s time to start rolling. “What’s nice and there is reasonably smooth asphalt about longboarding is that everyone can le- everywhere. Thus the longboard was born. arn it quickly,” says longboarder Jan Ves- / Lisboa ind. Author: Laurin Lehner That was a long time ago, and longboar- ter, while showing some basics. He steps

ding has since become known around the with one foot and keeps the other on the Schwarzwald- N Stadium

Left Unsplash ­world. What few people know, however, is board. Of course, the declines also help to

that longboards have been around longer pick up speed. Skillful hip movements also than skateboards. A longboard measures help provide more speed. “You steer by about one meter in length, and its wheels shifting your weight,” Jan shouts into the Littenweiler are larger­ and softer for greater comfort wind. Then he places one foot expertly on and less roll resistance. The board itself is the asphalt, brakes, and grins. There are

made of wood. now boards for any style, including special

boards for going downhill, flex boards, car-

Longboarding in Freiburg Freiburg

ving boards, dancing boards – and yes, even Golf Club

Just as California offers ideal conditions electric boards. The idea, however, remains

D

for surfing, longboarding fans enjoy the al- the same: namely, a touch of the feeling r e

i

s

a

most perfect descending slope on the road of riding waves – like in California, just in m between Himmelreich and the city center. Breisgau. ×

Zarten The Layback Boardshop holds longboarding workshops for beginners. Employees provide novices with the basics in around two hours. In addition, every Wednesday­ the longboarding regulars’ table meets, when the group surfs the scene from­ ­Himmelreich along the Dreisam towards the city center together. Kirchzarten Layback Skateshop offers rental equipment (a rental costs €5 per day) and workshops (2 hrs, cost: €20) for beginners. www.layback-freiburg.de

Himmelreich-Tour: it kicks off at the central station: Höllentalbahn platform 7. The trip Burg-Birkenhof takes about 20 minutes by train to reach the Himmelreich stop. Ticket price: approx. €4. The cycling path starts right from here and curves approx. 14 kilometers into the city. Duration: approx. 1.5 hours

Himmelreich Station 1 km 450 m üNN 26 27 Buchenbach Q&A: My favorite spots

Martina Knittel David Schneider Tobias Hauser Cofounder and manager of the Grünhof David Schneider is the cofounder and Photo journalist, author, and founder coworking space and the Kreativpark CEO of Decker Bier, a network of of Mundologia (world knowledge), Freiburg. This passionate supporter of microbreweries from the South Baden ­Europe’s largest reporting festival. young start-ups travels high into the region that have set out to serve the Every year, he attracts more than Black Forest in her free time. She is best handcrafted beers in the area and 30,000 visitors to Freiburg with his happy to recommend cute new stores hold the Craftival once a year. event, and those numbers are poised for shopping in Freiburg. to continue rising. “I have lived in Freiburg since 2003 “One of my favorite excursions is to and, over the years, it has also become “I travel a lot, but I always look for- head out early in the morning on the my home. I came to the city to study ward to my return to Freiburg – elevated hiking trail from St. Peter to and have grown up here. Freiburg saw I wouldn’t want to live anywhere else. – ART & CUISINE – St. Märgen to the co-op Landfrauen- many things set in motion during this The city is culturally diverse, cosmo- 03 café, where they offer freshly baked time, such that a significant change politan, and rich in history. What also bread and cakes, as well as lovingly has taken place in the city. I found makes Freiburg very appealing to created delicacies from the farms of this process interesting, so I stayed me are the landscapes in the area for the region. Those looking for a sou- here. Independent of that, I apprecia- hiking, skiing, and biking. And I am venir in Freiburg that isn’t a cuckoo te the nature and especially the urban a passionate climber, for example in Cultural clock or a traditional broad-brimmed locations outside the Old Town, where the Zastler valley and on the Kandel­ Bollenhut hat will find what they most residents of Freiburg live. I love felsen. Discovery trips to the Feldsee, need at the Black Forest Concept discovering and encountering new the Liliental, and the Ravenna gorge Store. Young start-ups and designers and interesting things every day. For are great with my children. Life sell beautiful lifestyle products from example, in our district on the eastern One of my favorite spots is the the region there. On the other side of Haslacher Strasse, which is one of Schlossberg tower with its great view, © Britt Schilling © Frank Bale · © Tobias Hauser © Britt Schilling Frank Bale · Tobias pictures Right © FWTM / Antal · Profile the Schwabentor (Swabian Gate), you the few remaining mixed commercial and the Keidel Mineral-Thermalbad, can find exciting art at very afford- areas, you have a space where cultu- which is a perfect place to relax after able prices. The Kulturaggregat, a ral leaders meet car dealers, homeless a stressful day.” non-profit organization of young cre- people meet art students, and a bro- ative people, offers prints, originals, thel meets small crafts shops. It is the and silk screens that buck the main- perfect place for a beer garden.” stream at the hilda art shop – hand- made and unique.” Decker Bier Garage DAV Kletterzentrum Freiburg Haslacher Strasse 25 Lörracher Strasse 20a Café Goldene Krone www.deckerbier.de www.dav-freiburg.de 79274 St. Märgen www.cafe-goldene-krone.de Alter Friedhof Stadtstrasse MUNDOLOGIA www.mundologia.de Black Forest Concept Store Kreativpark Lokhalle Konviktstrasse 10 It’s worth looking down here: Artful pavement mosaics have a long tradition in Freiburg. Paul-Ehrlich-Strasse 7 Scheibenfelsen Zastlertal www.blackforestjerky.com They serve as advertisements for artisans, businesses, and restaurants, and they are im- www.kreativwirtschaft-freiburg.de Fine Black Forest granite with courses­ pressively decorative as well. One thing is certain: (almost) no one knows each one, so from levels IV to VIII. Access via hilda art shop ­Kirchzarten and Oberried-Zastler. you are sure to discover unseen motifs in unexpected places time and again. This mosaic Hildastrasse 5 of colorful rhinestones, for example, is located at the Fasnetrufer fountain on Gerberau. www.kultur-aggregat.de 28 29 CULTURAL LIFE

The Belgian director Stef Lernous has already staged a Black Forest chainsaw opera in Freiburg. In “Factory,” the gloomy music of Velvet Underground is heard in Andy Warhol’s messy studio.

© Theater Freiburg: Factory / Laura Nickel © Theater Freiburg: SO MUCH

On the big stage or in small basements, in a former swimming pool or a commercial building – the Freiburg theater scene is diverse. It provides highbrow entertainment, as well as food for thought and debate.

A stroll between the boards that still mean the world.

DRAMA

Author: Georg Rudiger

30 31 CULTURAL LIFE

A winner of multiple international awards, the Theater im Marienbad is located on the southern edge of the city center. Here, ar- tistic director Sonja Karadza and her four- teen-member team want to “make art for Don’t miss the Theater Freiburg. It sits children and young people.” The former enthroned on a small hill next to the new swimming pool has been an exciting the- university library. HEART OF THE CITY ater space since 1989. All the performan- stood for a long time in capital letters on ces are included in the normal evening the roof of the representative building. The program for adults as well. The pieces are heart of the city beats here; this is where told in a way that appeals to members of the theater life pulses, as it has since 1910 all generations. In Marienbad, the focus is when the citizens of the city came up with on asking questions rather than providing the money for this temple of art without answers, and getting children to reflect on any grants. This is where the Freiburg Phil- things as well. harmonic Orchestra sits in the orchestra pit in order to bring the great operas to life. In the center of the Stühlinger Gewerbe- Thrilling spectacle meets innovative dance hof is the Theater der Immoralisten. The and the lively Junges Theater, which offers trip to see the young theater makers Flo- its own program specifically for children rian Wetter (actor and musician) and Ma- and adolescents. Under the new artistic di- nuel Kreitmeier (director) is well worth it. rector Peter Carp, who took over for Bar- After all, this is where you can experien- bara Mundel in the fall of 2017, Freiburg ce perhaps the most innovative theater in Theater has gone international. “We see the city. The casual student group has long ourselves as an artists’ theater,” says Carp. Whether its opera, drama, dance, children’s since become a professional ensemble that For him, the theater is a world receiver that theater, or performance, passion, excite- also develops its own pieces in-house, from sets its sights far beyond the city limits. ment, and energy characterize the diverse the script to the music. “We deal with so- Freiburg theater scene. cial conditions,” says Manuel Kreitmeier. © CAHO

There are only a few hundred meters bet- / And he is happy to have loyal and interes- ween the biggest stage and the smallest. ted regular attendees. The Gewerbehof be­ Barbara Zimmermann set up Harrys De- comes an outdoor venue during the sum- pot in the Specht-Passage. The small spa- mer. The Wallgraben Theater, which puts ce near the Jos-Fritz-Café holds just forty on guest performances in the Town Hall seats. The ensemble “Harry, hol schon mal ­inner court­yard, and Harrys Depot also den Wagen,” or “Harry, go get the car,” bring their productions into the open air, plays here for around three new produc- The Wallgraben Theater on Rathausgasse transforming the city itself into a stage. × tions every season. “The name is, of course, is also a good destination for the classics. pure irony. We do pieces that deal with so- These pieces do not come across as dusty Theater Freiburg and Passage 46 cial issues,” says the theater director, who in this basement theater, however, as they Bertoldstrasse 46 directs each piece. “Language is our grea- are deliberately staged against the grain. www.theater.freiburg.de test passion!” As a spectator in Harrys De- ­Goethe’s “Faust” appears on this stage with

Mathias Lauble · Theater im Marienbad: Reise nach Brasilien Harrys Depot pot, you are very close to the big plays that an impudent Gretchen and a female Me- / are put on with little technical effort and phistopheles, complete with an electric Wilhelmstrasse 15/2 great attention to detail. In addition to mo- guitar – modern and entertaining at the www.ensemble-harry.de dern pieces, you can watch comedies and same time. The theater, founded in 1953, is Wallgraben Theater  dramas from old masters like William Sha- one of the oldest private theaters in Germa- Rathausgasse 5a kespeare and Heinrich von Kleist. ny. The actress Regine Effinger and the di- www.wallgraben-theater.com rector Hans Poeschl, who run the Wallgra- Theater im Marienbad Cyrille Guir · Wallgraben Theater Cyrille Guir · Wallgraben

ben Theater, cover a broad spectrum with / Marienstrasse 4 their productions. Even modern hits, such www.marienbad.org as Yasmin Reza’s “The God of Carnage,” or boulevard comedies can be seen here. Theater der Immoralisten Ferdinand-Weiß-Strasse 9–11 www.immoralisten.de Theater Freiburg: Fury Theater Freiburg:

Alemannische Bühne Freiburg During the summer, the Wallgraben Theater holds Gerberau 15 its annual plays at the Town Hall. www.alemannische-buehne.de

32 33 CULTURAL LIFE

Room to dance

Tennis Shoe Tango Alter Wiehrebahnhof With its smooth surface and central lo- the ten dance halls, with another three on Urachstrasse 40 cation, this decommissioned fountain is the way, you are in another world. Here the Tuesdays, starting at 7 p.m. perfect for dance evenings full of atmo- waltz meets quickstep, and rumba meets Winter venue: sphere. The hot spot is abandoned only jive. Regular Gutmann events like Late Neuer Wiehrebahnhof, Gerwigplatz 20 during the cold months. But the ten or so Night at the Friedrichsbau and the Ballhaus, dance schools in the city offer many op- or the Saturday Night Party at the Klan- Dance at the Old tions in the winter to pursue your passion. graum at the Central Station, are an indis- ­Mensabrunnen pensable part of the city’s nightlife. Rempartstrasse 18 Tennis Shoe Tango For Matthias Blattmann, one of the three (Summer) evenings, directors of the Tanzschule Gutmann, One constant favorite is the salsa. The La- ­alternating DJs

Freiburg is a dance capital already. Many tin American ballroom dance is not only Aya Latin Dance Academy & Dance Fountain world champions in competitive ballroom taught in special schools such as Aya, Sal- Rosastrasse 9 dancing come from the local clubs. In the sa con Pasión, Romano, and Timbalaye, www.aya-dance.de Dancing in public The gravel crunches, and the wind is codes. You can also dance better on the standard/Latin category alone, there are but can even be danced in Freiburg’s Cent- Salsa Con Pasión ­rustling in the leaves of the chestnut trees. gravel in tennis shoes than in high heels,” around 8,000 active amateur dancers. “In ral Station. The Salsa y Candela takes pla- spaces? Not really Bertoldstrasse 45 Dance couples move with easy, fluid move- says the tango DJ with a laugh. Dances are this university city, dancing is still seen as ce every first and third Saturday starting at www.salsa-con-pasion.de done in Germany. ments on this warm summer evening to the held outdoors every Tuesday evening start- part of the general education. We also have 9:30 pm. “Our DJane Caramela plays salsa, Freiburg is differ- tango music coming from the loudspeak- ing at 7 p.m. from spring to fall, weather large hip-hop scene in this city, and West bachata, and merengue, and maintains fri- Noche Salsa y Candela ent in this regard. ers. Here a turn, there a rock step and a permitting. In winter, organizers simply Coast Swing, and the Lindy hop have be- endly contact with our guests. That’s what Bar Coucou in Central Station, Sensuality,­ move- flick of the leg. Lost in the music, the tan- move the event to the foyer in the Neuer come very popular over the last ten years makes this event so special, in combination ­Bismarckallee 9 go enthusiasts forget their everyday lives. Wiehrebahnhof train station, where you can or so.” The Gutmann Group opened the with delicious drinks at this extraordinary Twice a month, ment, and levity The square next to the Alter Wiehrebahnhof even enjoy the milonga until 11:30 p.m. largest dance school for partner dance in location,” says Valentin Rogg from the Bar Saturdays starting at 7 p.m. go well with a city turns into a “milonga,” as Freiburg becomes Things are also pretty casual at the eve- Europe in January 2016 with the Ballhaus Coucou, the bar that organizes the event. Salsa Studio Romano that enjoys life and Buenos Aires for a few hours. The only dif- ning open-air dance at the Mensabrunnen. Freiburg. Up until just a few years ago, lem- There are no noise complaints at the Cent- Walter-Knoell-Strasse 3 likes celebrating ference: it’s over at 10 p.m. to keep things The dance community is younger here, onade was still being bottled on the former ral Station. However, the building closes at www.salsastudioromano.de quiet during the night in this residential as the spot is located between the cafete- premises of the Ganter brewery. Today, you 1 a.m., bringing the popular salsa evening to Tanzschule Gutmann festivals. area. Manfred Schreiber from Freiburg’s ria and university in the city center. Tan- enter the chic foyer of the Ballhaus on a red a close. × Ballhaus Freiburg Tango Argentino Club Corazón is one of the go is the thing to do here every Thursday carpet. You can hear nothing of the heavy Leo-Wohleb-Strasse 1 organizers of this feel-good event. On this evening. Apart from that, there is salsa traffic rolling by outside on the B31 road www.tanzschule-gutmann.de evening, the native of Kirchzarten stands (Mondays), the Lindy hop (Tuesdays), for- through the soundproof windows. Inside, in Author: Georg Rudiger at his Notebook and provides just the right ró (Wednesdays), and kizomba and bacha- Tanzschule Timbalaye music for this so-called tennis shoe tan- ta (Fridays). The DJs are paid on a donation www.salsa-freiburg.de go. “The name symbolizes a certain non- basis. There is also usually a dance teach- chalance, especially with respect to dress er who teaches the basic steps to beginners. FWTM / Polkowski · Unsplash Matheus Lira

34 35 CULTURAL LIFE

“Tag um Tag guter Tag,” or ­“Every Day Is a Good Day,” the serial art from the Freiburg painter Peter Dreher has a fixed place at Galerie Baumgar- ten. But other com- pletely different artistic stances are also represented in Freiburg’s gal- leries. You won’t ­regret taking a look around.

1

Author: Ute Battig

A lamp, a sofa, a table decked with select ceramics, and a sculptures from the north of the country, as well as a small See Differently, group of life-size figures around them: At the Kunsthandlung contingent of contemporary tapa art from Papua New Gui- und Galerie Bollhorst 1 , the exhibits are incorporated into nea. “Our works come exclusively from what are known as arrangements that feel familiar. This gallery displays inter- community-based art centers, which are artists’ cooperati- national artists and artisans with a focus on ceramic works ves belonging to the indigenous artists themselves, signaling See Different and sculptures. There it is about materiality, about viewing a clear commitment to provenance, authenticity, and the fair and feeling, about objects from people who penetrate their trade of Aboriginal art,” Robyn Kelch explains. materials at a sensual level. “The production of ceramic con- tainers is one of the oldest cultural techniques of humanity. Let your eye be the guide and follow the thought Things ... To take a piece of damp soil as a starting material is, in my Humans and nature are also the key subjects for Ulrike eyes, exceptionally simple, soothing, and comprehensible in Claeys and Susanne Jeffs, with a focus on works by women. a present-day world where almost no one understands the “It may surprise you, but take a good look, and you will see A Foray into Contemporary Art technology that surrounds us. Ceramics is a very complex to- that women are still strongly underrepresented in art,” says pic, but I am first of all delighted by the idea of simplicity,” Ulrike Claeys. “Women create differently, and we are inte- Frederik Bollhorst explains regarding his motivation. “I am rested in how they handle art.” Beatrice Adler, Helga Mar- interested in the joy and wonder of products made by the hu- ten, Ulrike Gerst, Julia Elsässer-Eckert, Lydia Leigh Clarke, Basel, Strasbourg, Karlsruhe – and inside this triangle: Freiburg. man hand.” Eva Rosenstiel, Herta Seibt de Zinser, Monika Schmidt – the Although these big neighbors often steal the spotlight when it You can experience this wonder at the Galerie ARTKELCH 2 Galerie Claeys 3 represents many female artists with a spa- comes to contemporary art, there are a number of prestigious in a completely different and impressive context: The Ger- ce to live and create in the region. In addition to graphic art, man-Australian Robyn Kelch specializes in paintings from paintings, and sculptures, you can view textile collages, iron destinations in this city worth noting. the upscale segment of contemporary Aboriginal art, mainly pipe sculptures, delicate wire structures, and paper objects; With individual emphases, very different concepts, and one from the desert regions in the center of Australia. In addi- the rooms are a bit hidden, in the direct vicinity of the Peter Dreher: Tag um Tag guter Tag, Galerie Baumgarten ∙ Right Bollhorst guter Tag, um Tag Tag Left Peter Dreher:

­common concern: stimulating discourse. tion, the gallery program includes pieces on bark and wood Graffiti­haus designed by Tom Brane on Kirchstrasse. »

36 37 CULTURAL LIFE

A living space for contemporary Antal / art: the collection of the Ege Kunst- und Kulturstiftung­ is displayed, preserved, and conveyed at the Kunstraum Alexander Bürkle. The collection of the Ege entrepreneur- ial family is focused on minimalistic painting, sculpture, photographic, and video pieces.

4 Open for dialog – and the moment of being in yourself

Gallery owner, consistent doer, unbiased medi- of a work of art, which in itself is neutral, often ator, enthusiastic narrator – Albert Baumgarten says more about the viewer than about the artist. has been involved in various roles in the local art And there is this contemplative moment of being 3 scene and beyond for more than 40 years. In his in yourself – that is also what art is for.” × exhibition rooms, he displays paintings, sculp- tures, object art, and photography, from artists such as Steffen Diemer, Peter Dreher, Walter Mo- roder, and Cornelius Völker. The initiator of the Kunst in Freiburg network values meeting and

Another address that is not easily discovered on conversing with people that comes with engaging its own is the Galerie G. This gallery is housed in a with art. “The attraction of ART Basel is unbroken.

Wiehre villa on the third floor, which in turn im- The opinion prevails that it is the best setting for parts something familiar and accessible. Owner Snow from Yesterday ... And from Today exciting discoveries – but that falls short. To start, Dr. Gudrun Selz is a specialist in Ancient Middle something new will be presented at the gallery Eastern and Oriental studies, focusing on the 3rd An equally clear concept, albeit a comple- and, above all, to a completely different extent and millennium BCE. As such, she is experienced in tely ­different one, is presented by Horst Dieter with its own intensity. It is presented in an exclu- 5 subtly detecting and reading traces – in the sha- Meier 4 on the Gerberau: The basement of the sive manner, in a sense – and there is much more pes, in the gaps, in the structures, as well as eye- gallery holds Baden paintings from 1900 to 1950. time to talk,” is how Albert Baumgarten formu- catching elements, in painting, in drawings, as The stairs lead up to changing exhibitions of cur- lates his open invitation. Addresses well as installation. The trend towards minima- rent works, primarily paintings on canvas, and lism has led to a focus on color painting, with the occasionally sculptures as well. And the winter For the time being, Marek Kralewski 5 , who sees ARTKELCH – Contemporary Aboriginal Art fixed gallery program including Peter Tollens, returns every year as reliably on time here as it his gallery as a project room, is also interested in Günterstalstrasse 57 www.artkelch.de Alfons Lachauer, and Georg Frietzsche, among does probably nowhere else: “Snow from Yes- the discussion. He presents contemporary pieces others. Such paintings are joined by conceptual terday ... And from Today” is the program from and positions of regional and international ar- Galerie Albert Baumgarten Kartäuserstrasse 32 items, delicate paper works, and art that revolves December to February, with exhibits from the tists with a focus on thematic exhibitions and www.galerie-baumgarten.de around words. old Schneemoler, represented by artists like conceptual spatial situations. “Art invites you to Galerie Claeys Kirchstrasse 37 Hermann Dischler, Karl Hauptmann, and Ju- engage with topics, and that makes it exciting to www.galerie-claeys.de lius Heffner, as well as contemporary works me,” the gallery owner explains. “The perception from Harry Meyer, Christopher Lehmpfuhl, and Galerie G Reichsgrafenstrasse 10 www.galerie-g-freiburg.de

Wolfram Scheffel, for instance. “No one believed Kralewski · FWTM Abend, at the Galerie Meier · 5: Mathias Dämpfle Marek Feldberg-Seebuck 2: Galerie ARTKELCH · 3: Monika Schmid at the Galerie Claeys 4: Hermann Dischler, in this idea at the time,” Horst Dieter Meier says. Galerie Marek Kralewski  “Now I’ve been doing this for over 20 years!” Basler Strasse 13 www.g19i.de

2 Galerie Meier Gerberau 4 www.galerie-meier-freiburg.de

Kunsthandlung und Galerie Bollhorst  Oberlinden 25 www.galerie-bollhorst.de Art in Freiburg Kunstverein Freiburg e.V.  Dreisamstrasse 21 www.kunstvereinfreiburg.de The interest group Kunst in Freiburg is jointly committed to contemporary art in the city. Kunstraum Alexander Bürkle The network connects renowned exhibition spaces and presents itself with two community events per Robert-Bunsen-Strasse 5 year: “Open for Art” and “nocturne,” which invite you to take a tour through various exhibition spaces. www.peac.digital www.kunst-in-freiburg.de Morat-Institut für Kunst und Kunstwissenschaft  Lörracher Strasse 31 www.morat-institut.de

38 39 CULTURAL LIFE

“To all dreamers following Does Freiburg have its own street their passion”: free of artistic art scene? conceit, striking, colorful, and Yes, and a big one, even. The city provi- vibrant. Brane’s work in public des space for creativity with its 14 Halls of spaces is very accessible in “ Fame (editorial note: spaces where street every­ respect. I believe that, too artists are legally permitted to paint). Antal

/ A desire to prevent illegal street art is also get to used to. Certainly, every city has its ­often, art gets stuck certainly behind this. However, I think it’s own character, but Freiburg is very much in closed circles where a shame that this autodidactic subculture its own thing – with its own somewhat gruff receives such little attention in the relevant Where the muse inspires: there is too much talk “On the Dreisam. The aroma “Walls Are Black Forest charm. But you can also learn local art spaces. After all, art exhibitions of the Dreisam is, to me, the to love this certain stubbornness. And be- about concepts. are not held so you can come in and ask

Sylvia Karina Jahn · FWTM aroma of Freiburg. cause I express myself through art, and / for the next döner shop. I believe that, too And, of course, the Kanon- because art is a universal language, colors often, art gets stuck in closed circles whe- enplatz. Every forest, every a City’s and shapes are as communicative as they ” re there is too much talk about concepts. – meadow. Just go, it has are anywhere else. In the end, everyone has Hello! Make exhibitions for the people, not enough of them.” a basic understanding of this. the same things every day, I also crave di- for yourselves. versity in my work. So I vary the styles – to Diary” This means that this “Gallic village” Which of your murals would you show Favorite spot: keep my appetite. Always eating the same has now become your main creative to a visitor? Felix Groteloh · Badische Zeitung Felix Groteloh food or, in my case, always reproducing “Galerie Fritz, that small, The Freiburg ­artist Your studies brought you from Munich area as a street artist, as a graphic what might be expected by others doesn’t I would begin in Kulturpark on Haslach- snug underground gallery and illustrator to Freiburg. Can you remember what it ­artist, a sprayer ... starve me, but it does make me fall asleep. erstrasse. There is also something to with its enchanted garden, was like the first time you arrived here is run with a lot of love and Tom Brane paints. ... I am neither nor. The best way to put it The bottom line is that drawing and paint- see at the Café Mohrenkopf. Then we in Freiburg? is to say that I am a creative soul. Outsid- ing is a vernacular, and I like to create lan- would go to the graffiti house on Kirch- stirs up the best mulled wine His formats are I arrived with my portfolio, stood at the ers always have to find a category and an guages in it. strasse in Wiehre, which has made a big in Freiburg during the win- ­often big, some- Bertoldsbrunnen, and asked for the city image for what you do, but, in principle, splash. In spite of, or perhaps precise- ter. Some of my images are times giant.­ center. The first passerby left me stand- painting mediums largely define the style. Then it doesn’t matter to you which ly because of the painting ban imposed also on display there.” wall in which city you are standing in It’s also a big deal ing wide-eyed. The next asked me what My main focus is on searching for creative in the meantime, along with all the back I mean, because this is the city cen- influences­ and complements in order to in- front of? and forth, it has also helped trigger a de- to talk with him – Fritz‘ Galerie ter. Crazy,­ I thought. The Fischbrunnen fluence each of my artistic areas, regard- Every wall has a history and an individu- bate about public art in Freiburg. After- Kunstraum und Events about art in ­general or Marienplatz in Munich are in anoth- less of whether it is a free or commissioned al environment. To me, walls are like the wards, I would go along Gerberau with Biergarten and Freiburg in er league. Perhaps this experience con- work. And I don’t like the term “street diary of a city. The more I deal with a city the mural depicting local craftsmanship. Bahnweg 4 particular.­ tributed to the fact that I soon embraced ­artist” anyway. You don’t say “canvas and the wall I’m going to work on, the bet- The final stop would be the Schlossbergring facebook.com/fritzgalerie Freiburg in my heart, because, as someone ­artist,” after all. Street art has come to be so ter I can realize my sketch on that wall. In and my work titled To all dreamers follow- who reads comics, I am into Asterix’s Gaul, diverse that we really should start naming Freiburg, for example, the natural surroun- ing their passion. and Freiburg has something of that Gallic the various styles. I don’t just paint in one dings flow into my work. That’s why I paint Author: Jürgen Uhl village about it. The people here are some- style. I don’t just stand in front of walls with images that are, let’s say, more traditional how their own little group with their own a spray can; I also paint some smaller num- or related to nature. The Black Forest de- More information: ways of doing things, which you have to bers on canvas. Just as I don’t want to eat finitely plays a role in all that. As it should. www.tombrane.de

40 41 CULTURAL LIFE

1

Author: Georg Rudiger

The blue steel arches roll like waves to- “Hinterm Bahnhof,” or “behind the wards the two green towers of the Herz-Je- station,” was the name of the new­ su-Kirche (Sacred Heart Church). The view over the bridge, which was built in 1886, ly created district for workers and to the other side of the railway tracks is craftsmen. That did not sound like one of the most popular photo ops in Frei- prime real estate; rather, it sounded burg. Around 10,000 cyclists go through here every day. But the Wiwilíbrücke 1 , more like inexpensive living space as the structure is officially named in honor and modest demands. of Freiburg’s Nicaraguan sister city, is much more than a traffic artery. As soon as it gets a little warm outside, young romantics But this was not always the case. In the se- climb onto the arches, which stretch up to cond half of the 19th century, when the a height of four meters. Here they sit with neighborhood was pounded out of the a beer in their hand and their sweet­heart ground in green fields and the first facto- in their arms and enjoy the sunset from the ries set up shop, it became loud and dirty. middle of the city. Hinterm Bahnhof, or “behind the station,” was the name of the newly created district With its elegant industrial architecture and for workers and craftsmen. That did not prominent location, the Blaue Brücke (Blue sound like prime real estate; rather, it soun- Bridge) has long since become a true land- ded more like inexpensive living space and mark of the city: a striking gateway to a dis- modest demands. Here, the chimneys bel- trict worth exploring because it is different, ched smoke, the hammers and saws worked more colorful, more vibrant, more original. away, and a gas and a power station ensu- Craftsmen and artists, workers and intel- red that the city had a power supply. lectuals, dreamers and realists all live clo- sely together here. Stühlinger is multicul- Even the Black Forest company “Welte and Full of Energy tural and also well mixed socially. This is Sons,” which was later to open a branch in where Freiburg comes closest to being a big New York, settled behind the central ­station Here, Freiburg is a bit like Berlin. Stühlinger serves up strong contrasts, city. Despite the large number of bars in the and gained international fame with its or- big emotions, original shops, iconic bars, and a lot of dynamic flair. De- Altstühlinger district between Eschholz- gans, orchestrions, player pianos, and their signed on the drawing board at the end of the 19th century, the district strasse and Wentzingerstrasse, there are revolutionary recording process before being also plenty of quiet corners. Many resi- completely destroyed on November 27, 1944, behind the central station has blossomed into a trendy neighborhood. FWTM / Antal dents of Freiburg find this mix appealing. during the bombing raid on Freiburg. »

42 43 CULTURAL LIFE

Green nightcap 17 Among the unique environs In the 1920s, this lively residential area around in particular meet to spend time playing board of the old pharmacy on the wisteria-covered Egonstrasse was known as games in the evening. The two owners Florian ­Klarastrasse, you can follow Montmartre, as the studios of important paint- Högner and Thomas Krohn got to know each in the footsteps of the bohe­ ers such as Hermann Dischler and Julius Bissi- other at a game shop. At Freispiel, they combine mians and discover absinthe, er were located here alongside the organ facto- a shop with a café, a combination that is unique 2 the “Green Fairy.” Other ry. At Lederleplatz , where the pump factory in Germany so far. They are true experts and can Café Mi- high-proof specialties from of the same name stood until the 1970s, explain all of the approximately 1,000 games they rabeau 3 cognac to gin can also be calls up a bygone era. Chansons spill have on offer. The concept is a hit – you will be found here. Café Hermann out of the loudspeakers. In the showcases and on hard pressed to find a table in the evening with- offers a completely different the tables of the guests are glasses from the time out a reservation. Like these two young entre- green oasis on the roof of the of Napoleon III, while the art deco chairs and preneurs, many creative minds have found their special lamps come from French flea markets. niche in Stühlinger and offer something away bicycle station. Bucking the trend, owners Jenny and Andreas from the mainstream which cannot be found in Berg have deliberately created a place full of nos- the pedestrian zones of other cities. Flea market talgia, fulfilling a dream in the process. Togeth- er with Horst Gessner from the Weinladen im Place of change delight­ Stühlinger (Egonstrasse 16), you are invited you But Stühlinger also changes constantly, develo- Once a year, almost the who­ to taste wine with a little extra something. Al- ping a dynamic flair that you would not expect 6 le city pours into Stühlinger’s fred Rabold from the Alte Apotheke Absinth und in tranquil Freiburg. Lederleplatz was created Kirchplatz 4 . The family flea Spirituosen 6 (Klarastrasse 60) provides high in the early 1980s after the pump factory was de- Past and present, near and far, and market in September is a true percentage spirits for the cognac and Armag- molished. Today, an unusual fountain with a red, classy and alternative are not contradic- institution and paradise for nac tastings. If you stroll through the streets of curved pipe is a reminder of the industrial past. tions here. Instead, they provide that lovers of smart haggling. the Altstühlinger district, you will find many Offices are housed in the malting tower of the very special spice of life that makes the things that seem to have fallen out of time. Löwenbrauerei (Stühlingerstrasse 21), closed in district what it is. Huitzilopochtli 7 (Egonstrasse 14) offers a 1982. Residential buildings have been built on Garden art large selection of teas, ceramics, and fashion the round bases of the former gas tanks (Ferdin-

5 In the 1980s, someone had made of natural fibers. TheFlight 13 Records and-Weiss-Strasse 5/7). »

dared to think big in Frei­ 8 (Stühlingerstrasse 15) record shop is ded- burg, when pop art star Claes icated entirely to retro charm and vinyl. At ­Oldenburg was hired to give Freispiel 9 (Lehener Strasse 15), young people the newly created Eschholz­ park 5 a metropolitan feel. He did this in his own way: with a monumental garden hose sculpture as a tribute to

4 the garden plot holders who had to make way for the park, with a Zähringer cross as 2 a knob. Alina Kovalchuk · Jürgen Gocke · Harald Neumann Alina Kovalchuk · Jürgen / Lederleplatz The Pumpenbrunnen is remini­ scent of the former headquar­ ters of the Lederle pump factory. Today, the Architek­ turforum Freiburg, the Curry­ house, and Café Mirabeau Düpper · © Alte Apotheke Unsplash reside here, among others. / Artistic charm, backyard craftsmen, laissez-faire, and Once a year, the square colorful street life: Stühlinger was considered the FWTM becomes a stage when the ­Montmartre of Freiburg. With fresh pastries from Left EasyStreet Theater Festival ­Boulangerie Labaguette (Eschholzstrasse 36) in hand, brings in crowds. the illusion is almost perfect. www.easystreetfestival.de FWTM / Antal ·

44 45 CULTURAL LIFE

12 11 Gewerbehof Stühlinger Ferdinand-Weiss-Strasse 9–11 An organic café, a daycare center for the homeless, and a photo stu- The main artery of Stühlinger is Eschholzstrasse, dio, a theater, and a saddlery. About which runs through the district from north to south. 1 a ­dozen different institutions and Here, Freiburg suddenly becomes very urban and businesses create the special flair of this privately financed and successful colorful life pulsates between bars and snack shops. project. By the way, a reigning world champion also works here: Patrick Frei, World ­Champion in Shoemaking 2018 Today, the former power station (Eschholz­ shops, antique dealers, the cult pub Babeuf 14 , www.freischuhe.de strasse 77) houses a popular socio-cultural and popular restaurants like Café Einstein 15 or ­center, the E-Werk 10^ , which still has an exci- the Burgermeister 16 . Living and working is very The new town hall in Stühlinger is a 15 Café Einstein Klarastrasse 29 ting spark thanks to its music, dance, theater closely related here. As soon as you turn onto Le- symbol of the new Freiburg: open,  The courtyard beckons in summer, while and visual­ arts divisions. And in the Gewerbehof hener Strasse, things become hectic. All day long, sustainably built and designed with 1 the delicious lunch table draws you in all Stühlinger 11 on Ferdinand-Weiss-Strasse, new delivery vehicles double-park. The busy street innovation in mind. year round with something special. The life has been breathed into former warehouses. is also the cycling highway to the University Cli- 11 stylish café is ideal for business lunches Here, a solar filling station meets a theater, and nic. You will find more than Turkish bakers and a as well as candlelight dinners. a workshop for custom shoes meets the Biohö- hookah lounge here. The Islamic Center, which fe Frischekiste, which supplies customers with also offers an affordable lunch, is right around 19 Bierhandlung Wannerstrasse 3 Main Cemetery  vegetables, fruit and cheese products from orga- the corner. Dive entirely into another world at Yes, this also exists in the wine region reisam nic Demeter cultivation. There are even Dspaces the Ariana Orient House 17 . The primary lan- – beer specialties from all over the being redeveloped as we speak. The first of three guage spoken here is Arabic. But many Africans, world, with expert advice to match. U oval-shaped buildings of the Stühlinger Town Hall Iranians, Afghans, Asians, Turks, and, of course, n “Learning by drinking” is the owner’s ik lin 12 , equipped with fan-shaped solar modules, is Germans shop here, finding everything that the ik motto. This motto is celebrated in um already finished­ (Fehrenbachallee 12) and has set heart and stomach could want, from calf trotters style at regular tastings. standards as the world’s first public plus-­energy to fresh cilantro. www.bierhandlung.de building. A new residential area with around B re is ac 20 Beatbar Eschholzstrasse 38 · This is 1,000 apartments is planned in the quiet western Those looking for regional and organic items will he  r St ra where the party life from the city cen- section of the district. get their money’s worth at the Stühlinger Bau- ss e ter spills over to – “intimate and very ernmarkt (Stühlinger Farmer's Market) (Wed- ­friendly” according to a Facebook Living, working, and partying nesdays and Saturdays) under the tram bridge ­review – what more could you want? The main artery of Stühlinger is Eschholzstras- near the Zwei Riesen – Schlucker und Spucker e se, named after an old divided field, which runs sculpture by Franz Gutmann. After shopping, lle ua 21 ga Bar am Funkeneck through the district from north to south. This stop for a cappuccino at the mobile ape café or nd Su ­Ferdinand-Weiss-Strasse 8 · Casual bar L district is full of döner shops and bars. The party spread out on the grass at the Stühlinger Kirch- ehe ner St approach, upgraded with occasional ras 17 community dives into the Freiburg nightlife from platz with a picnic blanket. Children will crawl­ se band & DJ appearances. Regional craft 13 © M. Doradzillo · Piktogramme: Dooder / Freepik · E-Werk: Lörcher © Andreas / H.G. Esch · Patrick Frei: 10: ingenhoven architects 23 the Eschholzstrasse tram stop near Café Brasil . out of the bicycle trailer and be delighted by the 12 9 E beers are available. Open every day gon 3 stra Klarastrasse, which runs parallel to Eschholz- playground at the Sacred Heart Church. Just 5 20 sse 2 starting at 5 p.m., except for Sundays. strasse, is more tranquil and idyllic. Here, you take the Blue Bridge to get back to the city. But 14 n e o s 7 i s a t Café Hermann 18 r e will find two violin makers as well as jewelry just one more stop first at in s t 15 a 22 Anuras Elefant Stühlingerstrasse 9 s s t e a e  m r l e l a t S a r s e t l k l a the circular bike station to enjoy the sun on the n r c r l a a Anura ­Thirimanna’s small restaurant 13 u 16 l a r a G K t m h s n i c rooftop terrace. From there, looking at the brid- B Eschholzpark a e is like being in your own living room. b 19 C n 6 ge, the blue waves lead to the Konzerthaus and to e Here, the former car mechanic cooks r E nge h lber gstr the Sternwald in the distance. Now all that’s mis- e asse 4 two lunches according to recipes from F e s F s erd Old Town ina a Stühlinger sing is the sea. × nd r 18 Sri Lanka every day. And there is a sec- -W e t Kirchplatz is s s-S tr z as l se ond helping for those who are really o 1 h h c hungry. Mon – Fri: 12 p.m. – 4 p.m. s E S tüh 8 ling ers tra e sse s 22 s ← a B r 23 31 t Brennessel Eschholzstrasse 17 s  n E-Werk Eschholzstrasse 77 · Be it exhibitions, theatrical i l B w 31 11 e For over 35 years, the Brennessel has → n h performances, dance evenings, international music festi- c 21 S D been the cult tavern in Stühlinger – vals such as Tamburi Mundi or classical concerts such as rei sam and not just because of the spaghetti the SWR Symphonieorchester’s Line 2 ­series, the E-Werk 10 bolognese. Students in particular Freiburg offers top-class performances in the special am­ enjoy the cheap food and the relaxed biance of a former power station. 10 atmosphere.­ www.ewerk-freiburg.de www.brennessel-freiburg.de

46 47 Learn more about Freiburg?

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ISBN 978-3-9819717-3-6 sparkasse-freiburg.de 48

Anz_Heimat_A4_DE-EN_rz.indd 1 12.02.19 17:15 A DRIA N P A UL E GE SC HIE SS A RT CARL C OLLE C TION

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P HIL MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE SIMS

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MIC HA Ł MAGAZINE FOR EXPLORERS BUDNY AND LOVERS OF THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE FRE D SANDBACK Collection of contemporary art MA RC IA at the Kunstraum Alexander Bürkle Freiburg i.B. HA FIF JOSE P H ISBN 978-3-9819717-3-6 peac.digital EDITION 2019

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