VOLUME 15 NO. 12 AUGUST 9 – AUGUST 15, 2019 SUBMIT STORIES TO: GUAM@STRIPES.COMGUAM.STRIPES.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE INSIDE INFO

CARVING A LONG-STANDING TRADITION ON GUAM PAGES 15-17

TAKE A DIP IN FRESHWATER POOLS PAGE 19 Guam’s vibrant culture, people Mt. Jumullong Manglo PAGES 2 -4 PAGES 20-21

THE GUAM BREWERY TAP HOUSE PAGE 22

Photos courtesy of Guam Visitors Bureau 2 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Commander Guam’s vibrant culture, people Joshua M Lashbrook GUAM VISITORS BUREAU Harbor in December 1941. For the next Chief of Staff three years, Guam was the only U.S. ter- Michael Davidson uam, the largest and southern- ritory occupied by Japanese forces until Revenue Director most of the Mariana Islands the Americans returned in 1944 to re- Chris Verigan chain, has a unique and com- Engagement Director claim the island. plex cultural history. Located Marie Woods The political maneuverings after Gin the Western Pacific in the geographic Publishing and Media Design Director World War II and the post-war buildup Chris Carlson region known as Micronesia, Guam is led to even more expansion of U.S. mili- Publishing and Media Design Manager well known for its strategic military and tary interests in Guam and the rest of Mi- Eric Lee economic position between Asia and the cronesia, with Guam becoming a hub for Advertising and Circulation Manager North American continent, but is less economic and commercial development. Monte Dauphin Guam Area Manager known for its remarkable history and re- The easing of military restrictions for Kentaro Shimura silient people. entering Guam and the establishment of Production Manager Inhabited for thousands of years, ar- a local, civilian government, have made Rie Miyoshi chaeological evidence indicates that the the island an ideal place for people from Engagement Manager Marianas Islands were one of the first all over the world to visit, go to school, Denisse Rauda places to be settled by seafaring peoples, Publishing and Media Design Editor find jobs or pursue a variety of economic possibly from the Maritime Southeast Publishing and Media Design Writers interests. ChiHon Kim Asia area, over 4,000 years ago. The Mar- Today, in addition to its inviting Shoji Kudaka iana Islands appear to have been contin- beaches, elegant hotels and great bar- Takahiro Takiguchi uously occupied by people who shared gains, Guam has another vital attraction Layout Designers Ayako Kamio the same culture and language that even- – its unique culture. The traditions and Yukiyo Oda tually became known as Chamorro. customs of Guam’s proud island heri- Yuko Okazaki Kayoko Shimoda Guam’s history is also one of multi- tage thrive, despite invading conquerors, Multimedia Consultants colonialism, with the last 400 years of wars and epidemics, and changing gov- Max Genao Doug Johnson Guam’s history marked by administra- ernments. Forged from a neolithic foun- Brian Jones Jason Lee tions of three different colonial powers: Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi dation and molded by historical events, Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman Spain, the United States and Japan. Guam’s living culture has expanded into Graphic Designers The ceding of Guam to the United a vibrant, modern way of life. Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji States as an unincorporated territory af- Since the 17th century, Catholic Sales Support Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa ter the Spanish-American War in 1898 in- churches have been the center of village Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro troduced Chamorros to democratic prin- activities. Even today, every village has Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato ciples of government and the modern Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Photos courtesy of its patron saint whose feast day is cel- Distributors Guam Visitors Bureau American lifestyle, while keeping them ebrated with an elaborate fiesta, which Joe Guzman subjects of a sometimes-oppressive U.S. the entire island is invited to attend. John Wesley Naval administration. Family groups still hold christening par- For feedback and inquiries, Guam also had a unique position in ties, weddings, novenas, funerals, and contact [email protected] World War II, when Japan invaded the To place an ad, call 355-5160 guam.stripes.com/contact island shortly after the attack on Pearl SEE PEOPLE ON PAGE 4 AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 3 4 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

Guam’s seven historical eras

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1898 – 1941: U.S. Naval Era 7KH861DY\UXOHG*XDPIURPWKHHQGRI WKH6SDQLVK$PHULFDQ:DUXSXQWLOWKH-DSD- QHVHLQYDVLRQRI*XDPRQ'HF7KH PEOPLE: Families &KDPRUURVSHWLWLRQHGIRU86FLWL]HQVKLSIRU WKHÀUVWWLPHLQ Guams cornerstone CONTINUED FROM PAGE 2 ’ cultural presentations. The very much alive. During cultur- 1941 – 1944: World War II/Japanese Era belembaotuyan, made from a al fairs and exhibitions, visitors death- anniversary rosaries. All hollow gourd and strung with often have the opportunity to -DSDQHVHIRUFHVRFFXSLHG*XDPIURP'HF are flavored by the rich Spanish a taut wire and pressed against watch master weavers, carvers heritage. WR-XO\ ones bare stomach, creates a and even a blacksmith at work. Spanish influence may also melodic sound enjoyed by all. Weavers, using the tradition- be seen in the mestiza, a style 1944-1950: Post-War Era The nose flute, once a long for- al pandanus or coconut fibers, of women’s clothing, or in the gotten instrument, is now mak- fashion baskets of various sizes, $SHULRGRIUHEXLOGLQJDIWHUWKHGHVWUXFWLRQ architecture of Guam’s south- ing a hearty return. purses, hats, floor mats and wall ern villages. RI:RUOG:DU,,1DYDOJRYHUQRUVZHUHRQFH The Kantan Chamorro style hangings. Carvers hew tables, Countless Americans, Eu- of singing has been a favorite plaques, figurines of people or DJDLQLQFKDUJHRIWKHLVODQG7KLVLVWKHSH- ropeans, Asians, Micronesians form of entertainment for gen- animals, and household imple- and other visitors have left their ULRG ZKHQ WKH PLOLWDU\ WRRN ODQG DQG EXLOW erations. Additionally, it has ments using ifil wood or pago imprints on the island’s pas- been used to lighten long hours woods. VHYHUDO ODUJH EDVHV 7KH SHRSOH RI *XDP times and tastes, but nowhere of group work activity, such as The traditional ways are be- SXVKHG KDUG IRU VHOIUXOH DQG 86 FLWL]HQ- is the island’s multi-cultural weaving, corn husking and net ing passed along to the younger influence more evident than in VKLS fishing. One singer would begin generations through appren- its food. the familiar four-line chant, ticeship programs in order to At a fiesta or other island 1950 – 1970: Guamanian Era referring romantically or teas- preserve the island’s art heri- party, families prepare heav- ingly in the verse to another tage. A master blacksmith, for :LWKWKHVLJQLQJRIWKH2UJDQLF$FWRQ$XJ ily laden tables of local delica- person in the group. The chal- example, recently graduated cies, such as red rice, shrimp   &KDPRUURV EHFDPH 86 FLWL]HQV lenged person would then take three pupils who have learned patties, a Filipino-style noodle WKRXJK WKH\ KDG OLPLWHG VHOIJRYHUQPHQW dish called pancit, barbecued up the tune and the song might how to make useful steel farm- 7KH JRYHUQRU D FLYLOLDQ ZDV DSSRLQWHG E\ ribs and chicken, and taro continue in this fashion with ing and fishing implements, different singers for hours. such as coconut graters, hoes, WKH 86 SUHVLGHQW 7KH 2UJDQLF $FW VHW XS leaves cooked in coconut milk. Another mouth-watering treat Contemporary music is an machetes and fishing spear- - WKHJRYHUQPHQWRI*XDPDVZHOOZLWKWKHDG is kelaguen, usually prepared important element of social heads. Other hand-forged items PLQLVWUDWLRQWKHOHJLVODWXUHDQGWKHFRXUWV from chopped broiled chicken, gatherings, ranging from fi- include betel nut scissors, tools 7KH WHUP ´*XDPDQLDQµ ZDV FRLQHG ZKLFK lemon juice, grated coconut estas and fandangos to casual for weaving and knives. backyard parties. Musicians A trip to Guam is like visiting LQFOXGHV&KDPRUURV)LOLSLQRVDQGHYHU\RQH and hot peppers. Fiery finadene sauce, made with soy sauce, usually sing Chamorro, Ameri- the four exotic corners of the HOVHZKRPDNHV*XDPWKHLUKRPH lemon juice or vinegar, hot pep- can, Filipino, or a variety of globe. Guam is considered the pers, and onions, is sprinkled Asian songs. hub of the western Pacific and 1970 – Present: Contemporary Guam over the food for a truly memo- Legends and folklore about undeniably Micronesia’s most village taotaomo’na (ancient cosmopolitan destination - a *XDP·VÀUVWHOHFWHGJRYHUQRUWRRNRIÀFHDQG rable dish. After a hearty meal, Chamorros often enjoy chewing spirits), doomed lovers leap- true example of the great Amer- *XDPVWDUWHGJHWWLQJPRUHWRXULVPEXVLQHVV pugua (betel nut) mixed with ing to their death off Two Lov- ican melting pot. In addition to RQDUHJXODUEDVLVZKLFKJDYHWKHLVODQGD powdered lime and wrapped in ers’ Point (Puntan Dos Aman- the indigenous Chamorros and ‘stateside’ Americans, Guam VHFRQGLQGXVWU\EHVLGHVWKHPLOLWDU\ pepper leaf. tes), and Sirena, a beautiful Music is an integral aspect young girl who became a mer- boasts large populations of Fili- of an island lifestyle, and per- maid, are portrayed in many pinos, Chinese, Japanese, Kore- - Guampedia formances using traditional of Guam’s enriching cultural ans and Micronesian Islanders, instruments, such as the belem- dances. as well as a few Vietnamese, In- baotuyan, are highlights of Guam’s traditional arts are dians and Europeans.

Photos courtesy of Guam Visitors Bureau AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 5

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Adm. Karl Shultz, the commandant of the Coast Guard, presided over the groundbreaking of the Cmdr. Carlton Skinner building at Naval Base on July 22. Photos by Auxiliarist David Liu, U.S. Coast Guard Trailblazer for civil rights in Coast Guard remembered

BY PO3 MATTHEW WEST, of the territory. Guam was under the executive officer of the Sea in 1918, and while women had U.S. COAST GUARD military-control since the United Cloud, a Navy weather ship, in served in several different ca- DISTRICT 14 HAWAII PACIFIC States had taken it from Spain Skinner’s experiment 1943. He was later made the pacities to the precursor services during the Spanish-American ships commanding officer, and of the Coast Guard such as light- SANTA-RITA — Seventy-years War. During an interview in 1970 to deliberately began overseeing desegregation house keepers, she was the first after President Harry Truman with James A. Oestele for the of the vessel with African-Amer- enlisted female service member appointed Carlton Skinner the desegregate an John F. Kennedy Library History ican sailors filling general rating in the Service. first civilian governor of Guam, Program, Skinner stated his view roles. Within a few months, there The Coast Guard remains Adm. Karl Schultz, the comman- American warship on how he felt concerning self- were over 50 African-Americans committed to the concept of di- dant of the Coast Guard, presid- rule in the Pacific. was a first. assigned to the ship. versity all these years after Skin- ed over the groundbreaking of “I don’t have the precise The experiment to deliber- ner began his time on the Sea the new Cmdr. Carlton Skinner date…. But the Navy had ruled ately desegregate an American Cloud. Recently, the comman- building at Naval Base Guam, these islands continuously ever warship was a first. Skinner had dant has made diversity within Monday. motors. Skinner said he would since, and in my opinion, the peo- asked for no special treatment the Coast Guard a top priority. The building will support spend all his free time in the en- ple were denied their basic civil or publicity as the cutter fulfilled One of Shultz’s primary direc- three new Fast Response Cutters rights by being under military gine room, studying motors and its roles without incident, prov- tives is to recruit and retain an replacing the two 110-foot Island rule, various aspects of that, not their manuals, and desired to be ing the process should and could inclusive and diverse workforce Class cutters currently stationed the least of which was that they a motor machinist’s mate. The work. that reflects the American public in Guam as the Coast Guard con- had no legislative bodies with rate was prohibited to African- With Skinner’s history in mind the Coast Guard Serves. tinues its efforts to modernize its legislative powers,” said Skinner. Americans at the time. it is fitting that, 76 years after the “Our leaders must be cham- fleet to better respond to an ev- Skinner was a part of the draft- “It seems to me very logical Sea Cloud experiment began, the pions of diversity and inclusion er-evolving and interconnected ing process for the Guam Organ- that he should be, and I had him building now bearing his name at all levels of the Service,” said global maritime transportation ic Act of 1950, the constitution of examined for this and recom- will provide support for two cut- Schultz, “Now is the time to make system. Guam, and breaking the chain of mend him to headquarters and ters named after minorities who tangible changes to the way our “We are growing our pres- military rule. This event was not headquarters sent back that he broke through prejudicial barri- Service approaches diversity and ence and capabilities in the Indo- the first time he was a trailblazer could not be because he was [Af- ers in their time. inclusion. It starts with us, but Pacific,” said Schultz. “We broke for civil rights. rican-American],” said Skinner. The Fast Response Cutters our message must make it to all ground on a state-of-the-art sup- During World War II, Skinner “This irritated me; it infuriated Oliver Henry, Myrtle Hazard and levels of the Coast Guard. Carry port facility for three new Fast was the executive officer aboard me. I had him re-examined, and Frederik Hatch are scheduled our message, Shipmates.” Response Cutters, which will be the Coast Guard Cutter North- appealed, and finally he was rat- to arrive in Guam over the next Vincent Patton, who served homeported in Guam and patrol land as it patrolled off the coast ed as a motor machinist’s mate.” three years. as the master chief petty officer throughout the region, protect- of Greenland. It was his job to Skinner went on to discuss Oliver Henry is recognized of the Coast Guard from 1998 ing U.S. national security and evaluate and recommend service how this situation made him view as the first African-American to to 2002, stated Skinner was a economic interests. Named af- members under his command for the bigger problem of racial seg- successfully make the transfer leading figure in integrating the ter Carlton Skinner, a U.S. Coast advancement. regation in the Coast Guard and from steward’s mate to motor United States military during Guard WWII veteran and the At the time, the United States Navy. When the cutter returned machinist’s mate and may very an interview with the publica- first civilian governor of Guam, military segregated African- from Greenland, he recommend- well have been the steward’s tion SFGate in 2004. He also said this FRC Maintenance Team Americans and limited them to ed to the commandant of the mate Skinner had referred to in Skinner had received little credit Building is a physical representa- specific rates aboard ships. Skin- Coast Guard a program be cre- his interview as they both served for it. tion of our close ties to the people ner recalled in the interview with ated for the inclusion of African- aboard the Northland together “But then he wasn’t interested of Guam, its history, and our long- Oestele, a particular African- Americans in the general ratings during the Greenland patrol. in getting a lot of notice, and Mr. standing commitment to their American steward’s mate who at sea. Myrtle Hazard is considered Skinner said all along this wasn’t liberty. Semper Paratus!” served under him. This effort was the birth of the the first active-duty female Coast about creating a social experi- Skinner was an advocate for In Skinner’s words, this stew- USS Sea Cloud experiment. Skin- Guard service member. She ment… but about putting people greater self-rule for the people ard was a genius with diesel ner received orders to become served as an electricians mate in the right job,” said Patton. AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 7 8 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

Military appreciation night makes problems seem minor league

was running late, as usual. own Rhode Island Newport limb caught my attention. The A mini-crisis had erupted Gulls and the New Bedford The Meat and emcee introduced him as Army Ion email at home, and typ- Bay Sox of Massachusetts. Sgt. Brandon Deaton, accom- ing an emergency response Hayden fished our tickets panied by his wife and two had put me behind schedule. from the overloaded pocket Potatoes of Life small children. My tires squealed turning past of his gym shorts, and we en- Deaton, the emcee ex- the “Lot Full” sign at the park- tered the old stadium to find plained, lost his left leg in a ing lot entrance across from seats among the peanut shell- roadside explosion in Iraq. the ballpark. I gave the at- littered wooden bleachers. The Lisa Smith Molinari The crowd quieted, and even tendant as pathetic a look as tiny ballpark looked more like the players took notice. I could muster, but before I a little league field than a place The emcee announced that could beg, he waved his hand where future pros might he had a surprise for Deaton toward a space that had play, but I loved the up for hot dogs and young boys and his family. From the stands, just opened up. nostalgia of it. fought for spots closest to the an all-terrain wheelchair was After parking, I As it was Mili- Gulls dugout where they could Major crises rolled out, donated by The In- jogged toward the spot tary Appreciation watch the players, gods in their dependence Fund of Rhode where I had agreed to Night, an emcee eyes. All college-aged boys become Island. Deaton, stunned, sat meet my 24-year-old dressed in red hoping to make it to the ma- in the state-of-the-art device, son, Hayden. He striped pants and jors one day, the players spit, bush league and drove it onto the pitcher’s had called two a star-studded swung, stretched and looked as annoyances when mound while the crowd looked weeks prior blue jacket was if they couldn’t have cared less. on. to tell me that announcing the I, too, wasn’t paying much one considers Then, one by one, people his employer, names of veterans attention. I cared more about stood up from their phones and Raytheon Com- gathered behind the my email crisis, and couldn’t those who give peanuts and licorice whips. I pany, was sponsoring pitcher’s mound. Navy wait to read the latest string of life and limb to stood too, and we all applaud- Military Appreciation Night Band Northeast musi- messages on my phone. ed this brave American hero. at a Newport Gulls baseball cians stood nearby in “Mom, you’re gonna miss serve in the U.S. In that moment, as a fat tear game. Did I want to go with their crackerjack dress the first batter,” Hayden rolled down my cheek, the him? I jumped on the rare in- whites, their horns scolded while I was texting military. jumbled priorities of my world vitation from my quirky, loner, glinting in the setting friends involved in the drama. were magically reset. too-intelligent-for-his-own- sun. Past first base, I watched the first two innings, Major crises become bush good, software-engineering four uniformed reserv- glancing clandestinely at the league annoyances when one son. ists held flags, ready to phone in my lap, and wonder- considers those who give life Hayden was there, as prom- parade the colors onto the field ing if I’d get out of there in time my face in my texts, complain- and limb to serve in the U.S. ised, standing in front of the for the National Anthem. to watch “The Bachelorette.” ing to friends about my crisis du jour. military. green wooden entrance to Car- While veterans threw first After the second inning, the Read more of Lisa Smith Molinari’s But then, the speaker crack- dines Field, one of the oldest pitches, the seagull-costumed Gulls were up 4-0. Hayden columns at: ballparks in the country. The mascot “Gully” interacted with made his way down to the con- led with the emcee’s voice. themeatandpotatoesoflife.com night’s New England Collegiate the modest crowd of Monday cession line for drinks and pea- Near the third-base line, a Email: meatandpotatoesoflife@ League game was between our night spectators, people lined nuts, and, of course, I buried bearded man with a prosthetic googlemail.com AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 9

WHAT IS HAPPENING ON YOUR BASE? GUAM.STRIPES.COM

From left, Eddie Davis and his brothers Julius, Octavious, Lebronze, Frederick, Arguster and Nathaniel pose for a photo behind a family picture. 11 brothers from Alabama, 158 years of military service STORY AND PHOTOS BY ADRIAN SAINZ, “I can go out in any bushes and sleep like a Holi- ASSOCIATED PRESS day Inn,” Lebronze said. “You learn how to do it because you are so tired. But guess what, you can TUNICA, Miss. — The sons of Ben and Hattie hear a gnat go by you.” Davis give special meaning to the term “band of The brothers talk often, and try get together ev- brothers.” ery year. This year, seven of them traveled to Tu- Eleven in all, their combined 158 years of ser- nica, Mississippi, for some gambling and buffet ac- vice to the U.S. military make them brothers in tion to celebrate three July birthdays. arms as well as brothers raised on a family farm in The Davis roll call features a mix of personali- rural Alabama. ties. Seven of the 11 gathered in mid-July at a hotel Octavious, the brothers agree, is the jokester. An and casino in Mississippi for a reunion thick with Army veteran, he drew riotous laughter when he brotherly love and military pride. They laughed to- told a bear-in-the-woods joke. gether, told stories from their days growing up and “We just like to get together and talk trash and serving the country and reminisced about what it just have a good time,” said Octavious, 80. “All of was like to be black in the U.S. military in the 20th us are close.” century. Lebronze is known as the straightforward broth- But in the end, they talked less about racism er. Brothers Frederick, 68 — the serious one — and and more about the lack of respect all veterans feel the more practical Julius, 73, joined him in serving from their fellow Americans. in the Army during Vietnam. “Being in the military, it was a fine thing,” said Eddie, 89, also served during Vietnam, but Lebronze Davis, who that was just part of his fought in the Vietnam 23-year career with the War and has survived Army and Air Force. He cancer and heart surgery. has a more spiritual side, “We all think we’ve done while Army veteran Na- an outstanding job.” thaniel, 75, is no-non- In 2017, the Davis men sense. were honored by the Na- Washington, a six-year tional Infantry Museum Army veteran, has passed Foundation. The names away. Ben, Alphonza, of the 11 brothers and who served 29 years in their uncle are engraved the Army, and Calvin, on four paving stones in- who did four years in the stalled at the museum. Navy, couldn’t attend. “What these brothers In their years after did out of love for both Lebronze Davis shows a reporter newspaper articles about serving, the brothers family and country is him and his brothers. have worked for the U.S. nothing short of remark- Postal Service and the able,” foundation presi- Bureau of Prisons, as dent Pete Jones said in a statement to The Associ- electricians and businessmen. And they clearly ated Press. “Their sense of duty is unrivaled, and have shared personality traits: friendliness, strong is the kind of spirit that makes our nation’s armed work ethic, mutual respect. forces the greatest in the world.” They remember being disrespected too, like the Sixteen siblings — the 11 veterans, plus three white-only drinking fountains and “colored-only” sisters and two brothers who did not enter the waiting areas they endured while growing up in the military — grew up on a 60-acre cotton farm in years of legal segregation. Wetumpka, Alabama, where their parents worked “These were the norms we saw,” Nathaniel said. hard to put food on the table. Mom was the discipli- But the brothers said they didn’t experience narian, dad had a softer approach. much racism in the military. Julius does recall “Their moral and ethical values were pristine,” when his base in Mobile, Alabama, was put on alert said Arguster, the youngest at 67 years old. the day Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in When the boys graduated high school, it seemed Memphis, Tennessee. natural to enter the military. “Everybody thought that black people were go- Military experience runs long in the Davis fam- ing to tear the town up,” he said. ily. The brothers’ uncle, 99-year-old Master Sgt. Octavious says the brothers don’t often talk with Thomas Davis, survived Pearl Harbor’s surprise one another about their military experiences. Leb- attack. ronze won’t watch war movies and he doesn’t even Ben Jr. was the first brother to enlist. He joined dream about his time in Vietnam. the Navy in 1944, while World War II was still rag- But they all boomed a collective “no” in re- ing. sponse to one question: Are veterans respected as Arguster served in the Air Force for four years much today as in the past? and then the Air Force Reserve until 1998. Arguster says he has grown weary of the over- Lebronze, 70, saw the heaviest fighting of the used phrase, “thank you for your service.” group: He survived jungle ambushes as an Army His preference? soldier in Vietnam, where he developed advanced “I would much rather hear them say, ‘Thank you napping skills. for helping to keep this country free.’” 10 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

Left: Josefa Muñoz, a Sea Turtle Biologist with the University of Guam Sea Grant, releases the babies of an endangered Green Sea Turtle.

Leilani Sablan, a Sea Turtle Biologist with the University of Guam Sea Grant catalogs the eggs Saving of the endangered Green Sea Turtle. the turtles

Leilani Sablan, a Sea Turtle Biologist with the University of Guam Sea Grant measures the depth of a nest of the endangered Green Sea Turtle on July 25 at Ander- sen Air Force Base. Photos by Airman 1st Class Amir R. Young, U.S. Air Force An endangered Green Sea Turtle crawls into the water. AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 11 12 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 3,5$7(6%8&&$1((56$1

GUAMPEDIA the Caribbean Islands and stop at Guam in support refers to pirates that attacked of the Spanish Christian lthough the word ‘pirate’ is used Spanish and later French mission there, fires were in early documents, secondary lit- shipping in the 17th and 18th kept burning at the high- A erature on Guam’s history has also centuries. A privateer was a est points of Guam when referred to these pirates as ‘adventurers’, ship authorized by a country the ships were thought ‘buccaneers’ and ‘privateers’ which refer to attack enemy shipping and www.guampedia.com due so that they would to the same profession of, among other by default those undertaking not miss the island. The things, preying upon and stealing from these attacks became known fires, however, may have ships, with the primary objective being as privateers. also helped attract pirates. Spanish galleons carrying gold and silver. After a June 1668 royal order requir- Here are some accounts of visits to The term ‘buccaneer’ originates from ing all Acapulco originating galleons to Guam from ‘adventurers.’ Oliver van Noort

doubled the south cape, from which we saw a low point Dutch expedition coming out where we thought we could anchor and the canoes were coming out from all sides to barter. There must n 1597 the Dutch began raiding into have been over 200 canoes and aboard each two, three, four the Pacific, hoping that by attack- and five men, pressing together noisily, shouting hiero, hiero, ing the Spanish colonies and ships , which means iron, iron. Because of the pressing we must they could force the Spanish to grant have crushed two or three underneath our keel; but, they did them independence. In 1598 the Dutch not care, because they are very good swimmers, know how to launched an expedition to the Pacific upturn their canoes and put back everything that was in it. under Admiral Oliver van Noort, who These islands bear their true name of Ladrones, because was acclaimed a hero for striking at everybody there is inclined to steal, and is very subtle at it, the Spanish and completing the fourth even remarkable, because they cheated us in various ways expedition (after Magellan, Hawkins, in trading with them; by placing a handful of rice on top of a and Cavendish) to circumnavigate the basket of coconut leaves; it looks as if there was much inside, globe. but upon opening it, one finds only leaves and other things, John E Van Noort first sighted Guam on Sep- because when bartering they place their canoes behind or on tember 15, 1600, approaching the island Oliver van Noort the side of the ships without coming aboard, and one must on the east side. He wrote that a canoe tie a piece of iron to a cord, and take in exchange what they ChamorroChamorros came alongside when they were still half give. a league away, and soon many more came out in their canoes with Some of them came aboard the ship, where they were ohn Eaton and William A fish, coconuts, bananas, yams and sugarcane to barter for iron. given some food and drink, and one of them seeing one of ited Guam in March 1685 our people who had a sword in hand, who was doing his - letter that the ship was fi Noted Chamorros turn at guard duty, grabbed it from him and leapt overboard Manila with supplies for the Sp swimming abilities with it, diving under the water. We aimed a few shots at others who had He made note of the how strong the Chamorros were and also stolen some things: but they all about their excellent swimming abilities, also saying they were jumped overboard to avoid the shots, tricksters: and the others who were not guilty We were coasting the island which runs south and north did not care at all. about seven or eight leagues according to our estimate. We These people live in the water as well as on land, according to our opinion, because they know how to dive so skilfully, the women as well as the men, which we noticed when we threw five pieces of iron into the water which one single man went in to get all from below, something that amazed us very much.

Van Noort also commented on the canoes: Their canoes are very beautiful and well made, such as any that we have seen in the Indies, being about 15 or 20 feet in length, and one feet and a half wide: They knew how to handle them well, sailing before the wind rather skillfully, without turning around to Cowley wrote that the sailors tack; rather, they sail against the wind with the other end who brought them: forward, leaving the sail as is, which is made of reeds like “potatoes, mananoes, co dressed sheepskin. to us for old nails and old i Some women came aboard as well completely naked trusted them not for we ha as the men, except that they had a green leaf before their great guns loaden with rou middle. They wear their hair long and the men shorn just like we would have our deck fu we see at home, Adam and Eve in paintings. always in arms. – By Shannon J. Murphy AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 13 1'35,9$7((562)*8$0 Woodes Rogers British privateer

ust after three frigates under his command had captured the Spanish galleon Nuestra - Senora de Encarnacion (which he renamed Bachelor), British privateer Woodes Rogers arrived at Guam on March 11, 1710, asking that Gover- nor Juan Antonio Pimen- tel enable him to replen- ish his ships – otherwise he would bombard the island. On January 4, Rogers had also attempted to take the galleon Nuestra Seño- ra de Begoña, resulting in eight deaths and twenty- eight men wounded in the battle that followed. Rog- ers was lying in wait on Guam for the Begoña, which failed to show. Rogers sent a letter ahead from his ship to Gover- nor Pimentel, saying that he wished to purchase all the provisions which could be spared (to be paid for very likely with pieces of eight that were part of the booty), and that furthermore if the Spanish refused to deal with him he would blast their villages with Eaton and William Cowley his ships’ guns. Governor Pimentel, who had only 130 troops as compared to Rogers’ 300 men, agreed s askedasked forfor helphelp SoSSomeomem ooff thtthehe EnEEnglishmenngglisishmhmenen wwentenent fisfifishingshihingng wwithiitth thtthehe ChCChamorrosamamororroros whwhenhene tthehehe on the condition that they put ashore the prisoners ChCChamorroshamamororroros sussurroundedurrrrououndndeded tthehehe bboatoaoat wiwwithithth a nnetetet aass thtthoughhoughgh ttoo drddrawawaw iitt aasashoreshohorere they had taken from the galleon. totogetherogeg thherer itsitsts ccrew,rerew CCrowleyrrowlwleeyy nnoted.oteded ThTThehe crcrewrewew rreactedeaactc edd bbyy shsshootinghooottiingng aatt ththehe Ambrosia Cowley, English pirates, vis- Governor Pimentel directly made a present to Chamorros. 5. Jesuit Father Juan Tilpe wrote in a Captain Rogers of four bullocks, limes, oranges, (We) let go in amongst the thickest of them and killed a great first thought to be a Spanish ship from and coconuts. In return Rogers invited Governor many of their number while the others, seeing their mates fall, panish garrison on Guam. It was then Pimentel and four of his officers aboard his ship for ran away. Our other men which were on shoar meeting them, believed to be a French dining and entertainment. Later, Rogers and his of- saluted them also by making holes in their hides. warshipw since its cap- ficers also visited the governor’s palace in Hagåtña We took our boat immediately thereupon, and went on board, tain communicated in and were given a feast of more than sixty dishes of French. most of our well men being on shoar, and seeing many of these various delicacies. Along with needed food supplies, Eaton asked for sup- infidels’ boats lie along our ship’s side, did not know what Governor Pimentel added “2 Negro Boys dress’d plies for his scurvy suf- design they might have on board (against) our sick men, but as in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 2 fering crew, trading it fell out, there were boats which came from the governor, with Pieces of Cambrick” before Rogers departed the is- gunpowder and several more presents for our refreshment. land. For his mandated hospitality, Governor Pimen- rifles for pigs, corn, rice, tel was to spend several years imprisoned in Manila. and other foods. Several Chamorros approached “the French” to seek an alliance Arriving on Guam at with them to “wipe out all the Spanish.” Rogers and his men were also very impressed the height of the Span- We took four of these infidels prisoners, and brought them with the speed and workmanship of the Chamorro ish-Chamorroi Wars, the on board, binding their hands behind them. But they had not flying proas which they saw all around them in the crewc found the governor been long there, when three of them leaped overboard into Guam and Rota waters. Captain Rogers observed: DonD Damian Esplana the sea, swimming away from the ship with their hands tied By what I saw, I believe they may run ini a state of uneasiness behind them. However we sent the boat after them and found twenty miles an hour, for they passed our reportingr that a chief a strong man at the first blow could not penetrate their skins ships like a bird flying. namedn Yula had fought with a cutlace. One of them had received in my judgment, forty thet Spaniards less than shots in his body before he died. And the last of the three that When Rogers left Guam March 22, 1710, he took a year before, wounding was killed had swam a good English mile first not only with one of the flying proas back to London with him as thet governor and killing his hands tied behind him, as before, but also with his arms a souvenir. severals priests and sol- pinion’d. diers.d – By Dirk A. Ballendorf, The governor rewarded the pirates for killing the Chamorros by PhD and Nicholas J. Goetzfridt, PhD s were well received by the Chamorros giving them more supplies after which they saluted him with three guns and sailed away on April 11, leaving behind Chamorros reluc- oconuts and plantains, selling them tant to attempt to make alliances with any other visiting ships. Shortly iron. But they being treacherous, we after Eaton was gone, the Chamorros nevertheless launched another ad always our small arms ready, and assault against the Spaniards, killing several soldiers but failing to und balls and cartridges. Sometimes dislodge them from their Hagåtña fort. ull with these infidels but we were – By Nicholas J. Goetzfridt, PhD and Shannon J. Murphy 3,5$7(614 SEE MORE ON PAGE 14 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

13 3,5$7(6 CONTINUED FROM PAGE William “Bully” Hayes saw Hayes approach the shore Slaver captured by Chamorros early the next morning in a boat in his underwear. illiam “Bully” Hayes was a blackbirder (slave trader) and criminal Intending from the start to who in the nineteenth century terrorized the inhabitants of Micro- take their money once he got rid nesia for many years. He was born in Cleveland (Ohio) sometime : of them, Hayes had spent the around 1829 and died in the Marshall Islands in 1877. night pretending the wind was too In the last years of the nineteenth century and early weak to sail and attempted to get decades of the twentieth he became a legendary fig- the passengers to go to the shore ure as an adventurer. to swim. Prompted by the reluc- Although the British authorities of the H.M.S. tance of his clandestine passen- Rosario tried to capture Hayes in Kusaie (now Kos- gers, Haynes took off his clothes rae) after the accusations made against him by the to try to demonstrate that he was islanders and his own crew, the credit for the arrest serious about taking a swim and of Hayes shall always be for Chamorro lieutenant was promptly seized by Lt. Pérez and gobernadorcillo (little governor or mayor) of and his men. Hagåtña José Pérez Cruz, who captured Hayes in his Seeing what was happening on undergarments, in a cove near Falcona Point in north- shore, the passengers forced the ern of Guam. pilot to pull anchor and sail on to Hayes landed at Guam on February 28, 1875. He Palau where the Chamorros may apparently planned to engage in commerce with a Captain Willney and bought have gotten off. The Arabia then sailed on to Singapore where the deportees a small schooner – the Joaquina Ana – from Francisco Portusach who would found their way home to Spain. Hayes was imprisoned in Hagåtña until June later become the disputed acting governor of Guam after American Captain 10 when he was sent to Manila, tried and imprisoned for about nine months. Henry Glass seized Guam from the Spanish in 1898. After spending some time in San Francisco, in April 1877 Hayes returned Hayes renamed the ship Arabia and after satisfying official requirements, to Micronesia on board the yacht Lotus. While navigating near Jaluit in the departed Apra Harbor on April 8 bound for Pohnpei but secretly carrying Marshall Islands, he was murdered by a blow from an iron fitting. Reportedly, nine Spanish political deportees sentenced to exile on Guam and six Chamor- he left a widow and twin daughters in Samoa, and most probably an undeter- ros wishing to emigrate illegally. These people had apparently paid whatever mined number of illegitimate descendants in different islands of the Pacific. price Hayes demanded of them. In 1983, Hollywood star Tommy Lee Jones portrayed William Hayes in the Eventually alerted to the scheme and the Arabia having been sighted off movie Nate and Hayes. In 1986, the Federated States of Micronesia issued a Falcona Point, Chamorro Lieutenant José Pérez Cruz with twenty men of number of stamps based on scenes of his tumultuous life. the local militia walked overland to Falcona. Seeing the Arabia silhouetted against the horizon, Pérez and his men waited through the night and finally – By Carlos Madrid and Nicholas J. Goetzfridt, PhD AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 15 Carving A long-standing tradition on Guam

STORY AND PHOTOS BY ssymbolsymbols and color and often use TAMMY JO ANDERSON-TAFT, ancient carving techniques to GUAMPEDIA create their pieces. arving is a ancient tradi- Although the use for carving tion on Guam and in the has changed, the raw materials C Mariana Islands. The used has not. Carvers on Guam craft was used for thousands typically use materials found on of years to create utilitarian the island including stone, wood, items as well as body bone and shell. Work- adornments. Pieces ing with different like latte (monolithic materials also means ancient stone struc- there are many dif- tures with capstones ferent carving tech- used as house sup- www.guampedia.com niques and styles. ports), shell jewelry While some of these and tools demon- techniques have been strate the skill of ancient carv- updated during the 20th century, ers. This skill was important be- many carvers continue to em- cause carving was vital to life in ploy traditional techniques in ancient times. honor of their ancestors. The craft continued to be both utilitarian and artistic through the Spanish rule of Guam begin- Ancient carving ning the late 17th century. Dur- practices ing the second half of the 20th century, carving on Guam moved Carving was an essential craft away from its utilitarian roots for the ancient Chamorros. They and became more of an art form. used carving to fulfill many of Modern day carvers, however, Tun Segundo working with Adze continue to incorporate ancient SEE CARVING ON PAGE 16 16 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 CARVING: Big part of ancient Chamorro culture

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 wealth and status of a person. This type of jewelry is highly their needs including shelter, was valued because of the dif- food preparation and deco- ficulty in obtaining the shells. ration. One of the most well- known icons of ancient Cham- orro culture is the carved stone Carving to latte. These stone structures were created with two pieces; preserve pillars and capstones carved from land and sea resources, traditions including limestone and brain Basalt Adzes Many contempo- coral. Basalt tools such as adz- rary carvers in the es were used to chip the stone Marianas produce while rubble was removed with items that represent wooden shovels and by hand. icons of Chamorro The largest latte can still be history. The mono- found on Guam’s neighboring lithic latte are no lon- island of Tinian where some ger carved of stone, capstones measure more than but are depicted in eight feet in diameter with smaller wood carv- shafts in excess of twelve feet ings or as images in height. Chamorros also used stones on plaques. Small to carve objects used in every models of Chamorro carabao carts, com- day living. The lusong (mor- Proa Sinahi (Senahi) tar) and lommok (pestle) were pletel withi passengers, cargo typically carved from basalt or and tools, and model proas with limestone. Se’se (knives) were skilled seafarers and their main Marianas. form the sea-going vessel. sailors, paddles and sails made carved from stone as well as transportation on the water The canoe carving process Ancient Chamorros also used from cloth or other materials bamboo or shells. Slingstones were carved canoes. European began with selecting the prop- animal shells for carving items. are popular. and fishing hooks were also explorers traveling through the er type and sized tree. Many Money was carved from turtle Other traditional items are carved during ancient times. Marianas archipelago noted times, carvers utilized the hard shells or Spondylus (spiny oys- stories carved into varying Carving was also used to create the graceful shape and artistry ifil (ifit) tree, monkeypod wood, ter) shells. Jewlery was often pieces of wood. These story- useful tools. The gachai (adze) of the Chamorro canoes. The nunu (banyan) tree or dokdok created from shells found on boards range in size and detail, was an axe created by carving small crafts were said to have (breadfruit) tree for mate- the beach which are relative- depending upon the artist. Typ- a wooden handle and using a cut through ocean waves like rial. After a tree was chosen ly hard and easily workable ically the pieces depict an icon- thick clam shell for the blade. dolphins and fly like birds in and harvested, the bark was with stone tools. During an- ic story or legend from Guam’s Many ancient carvers the wind. These wooden water stripped and a design was cre- cient times, small disks carved history. Popular storyboard worked with wood. Ancient crafts, in a variety of sizes, were ated. Carvers would mark each of spondylus were placed on topics include the Guam Chamorros were known as commonly used throughout the end of a tree with a V-shape to necklaces and represented the legends of two powerful AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 17

Tun Segundo Blas

chiefs, Two Lover’s Point, carved artistic depictions of Sirena and the Chamorro latte, plaques and storyboards story of the creation of are often given as gifts to vis- the world. iting dignitaries to Guam. In Carvers on Guam have (and 1998, with only a week’s notice, continue to) produce utilitarian Taitano carved several wooden pieces including tables, bench- ifil chairs used to seat political es, mitatis (flat grinding stone) dignitaries during US Presi- and kamyo (coconut grinder) dent William Jefferson (Bill) stools. In addition to decorative Clinton’s historic visit to Guam. pieces, carvers create other Two of the chairs were later utilitarian pieces including fur- shipped to the president as a niture from local woods. gift. Master Carver Emilio Borja Taitano is also renown for was known for using ifit to carve his production of ifil clocks, canoes and spear guns. Borja backgammon boards, chongka grew up in Palau (formally (a game played with shells on a known as the Republic of Palau, wooden board), cutting boards, a nearby island in Micronesia) ashtrays and other items from and moved to Guam in the late local woods. Taitano owns the 1940s. He was trained in carv- “Ifit Shop” in the village of Yigo ing by his father. This practice located in northern Guam as has been passed on to his chil- well as a shop in the Chamorro dren and extended family. In Village in the island’s capital, 1976 Borja,along with Master Hagåtña. Carver Segun- Carving of do Blas, were jjewelry has commissioned aalso become by then-Gov- a well-recog- ernor Ricardo nnized modern J. Bordallo aart form on to build a ca- GGuam. Many noe for the ttalented carv- bicentennial eers create of Guam. The ppieces from project took sshell, wood or six months to Legend of Two Chiefs complete. other natural Blas, an- material with other well-known and respect- symbolic meanings. Pieces are ed master carver, learned how on display at various art galler- to build canoes as a youth on ies and shops. They typically Saipan and Palau. Blas was include iconography from an- also instrumental in preserv- cient Chamorro society includ- ing the Chamorro culture, shar- ing latte stones or other icons ing his knowledge of carving from ocean living including skills to a younger generation. depictions of fish or other ani- In the 1990s Blas mentored and mals. Because certain types of trained Rob Limtiaco and Gary shells, including the spondylus, Guerrero as they built their were initially scarce some peo- first canoe. The fifteen-foot ple import these shells from off outrigger, now displayed at the island. Guam Museum, is the product Another indicator of how of a National Endowment of the popular the art of carving is Arts and Guam Council on the on Guam is the “Orange Night, Art and Humanities Agency Spondylus Night” event hosted funded project. by the Guam Gallery of Art. Ac- Stripes Guam is A Stars and Stripes Community to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD Master Carver Robert Tai- cording to the events organizer, Publication. This newspaper is authorized for publication personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in tano is well-known on Guam for Filamore Palomo Alcon, the by the Department of Defense for members of the this publication, including inserts or supplements, does his ability to create wooden ifil event began as a smaller gath- military services overseas. However, the contents not constitute endorsement of those products by the pieces for useful and decora- ering of people who already of Stripes Guam are unofficial, and are not to be Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products tive or commemorative items. had spondylus pieces. Since the considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the or services advertised in this publication shall be made He is well-known for carving first event, many people have U.S. government, including the Department of Defense available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard beautiful, stalwart tables and become interested in carving or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital decorative wooden artwork their own pieces out of spondy- Stripes Guam may be distributed through official status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any channels and use appropriated funds for distribution other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. featuring coconut crabs. His lus shells. 18 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 19

Take a dip in southern Guam

GUAMGUAGUAAMMV VISITORSVISISIS TORORRSBS BUREAUBURUURERER AUAU surroundedsuurrounded bbyy sessereneereenne vviewsieewwss ooff mommountainsounntatainns anaandnd thtthee onon GuamGuauam ththathat oofferfferer aactiv-cttivi distant ocean. The hike is anan easyeaeasysy 15-minute15-minute walkwalk ity, adventure, nature, uam is well known for its pristine beach- to reach the top pool. Reachinghing thethe totopp popooloolo ccanan bbee and an opportunity to es and vibrant coral reefs but the island’s achieved by all ages, althoughghh climbingcliimbbing downdod wn toto exex-- break away from the G natural beauty extends beyond its white plore all of the pools will requirequire some aaideide fforor crowd and get to know sand shores and turquoise waters. From north to little ones. the island deeper. Af- south, Guam’s vivid landscape is rife with hiking To reach Priest’s Pools, terte Priest’s Pools, explore trails that lead to picture-perfect waterfalls, natu- travel south to Merizo. In FouhaFou Rock, the site of one ral swimming holes, and breathtaking vistas. Merizo, turn off Route 4 ofof GGuam’su most enduring leg- One of these hidden natural gems is Priest’s at the corner of San Dimas ends: PuntanPun and Fu’una, the sib- Pools, a refreshing oasis in southern Guam that is Church onto Chalan Jo- lingling ggodsods of creation who sacrificed tucked away in the breezy hillside of Merizo. Lo- seph A. Cruz and drive up themselves to crea create the universe. Or go all cated near the historic San Dimas Catholic Church, the hill. Take the second thethe way up to thethe top ofof Mount Lamlam and see whose foundation dates back to the late 1600s, paved left (this particu- Guam fromfrom itsits highesthighest peak.pea Priest’s Pools are named after the Spanish-era lar street is unmarked, priests who often visited the natural freshwater however, the first street is pools to bathe and refresh. N. Doyle St.), drive to the Priest’s Pools is a series of eight cascading infin- end of the street and park ity pools of varied sizes that are continuously filled on the side of the road with-- BeforeBefoforere yyoyououou ggoo by the Pigua River as it makes its way to the ocean. out blocking any residentialialal Guam’sGuGuama ’ss wweathereaeathhere iiss hohhot,ot humid, and unpredict- The largest pool, and the biggest for swimming, is driveways. Hike along the didirt able.bl WWear clothingl thhi ththath t will protect from the sun the top pool measuring in at 9 meters long and 4.5 road trail that begins at the end of and appropriate shoes for hiking. Also bring plenty meters wide with a depth of 2.4 meters. the street, which will slowly descend to the right of drinking water and be sure to let someone know The wide and easy trail to Priest’s Pools cuts and lead to the top of Priest’s Pools. where you’re going and what time you expect to re- through peaceful savannas dotted with wildflowers Priest’s Pools is just one of many hiking trails turn.

Photos by Guam Visitors Bureau 20 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

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INFORMATION PROVIDED BY 360GUAM Mt. Jumullong Manglo Hike to the crosses atop Guam’s own ‘Mount Golgotha’ in the south

eople often confuse this SIGHT: Mountain peak views celebration. A new cross is carried up The wildflowers are amazing and mountain with Mount Lam Quick Stats COOL STUFF: Religious significance the mountain by followers of the Cath- the vegetation is different in all sea- PLam. In fact, the crosses LOCATION: Umatac (crosses, Virgin Mary grotto), 360º olic religion as they reenact Jesus’ sons. The view shows you Cocos we see from the highway in REGION: Southwest views, wildflowers, great for sunsets struggle during his crucifixion. Island in the South, all the way up to the Southwest are on Mount DIFFICULTY: Easy Medium There are sections of the trail that Two Lover’s Point and Hotel Row in the Jumullong Manglo, not Mount TIME: 30 - 40 minutes to the top, allow Overview are extremely slippery when wet due West, the cliffs of the Air Force base Lam Lam. The tallest mountain 2 hours to the clay and limestone, which line to the North, and miles and miles of in the world uses this trail until LENGTH: .675 of a mile This trail is wide and extremely the mountainside. The incline isn’t too inland and coastal views to the East. the eleventh (XI) cross where it ELEVATION GAIN: 653 feet (trailhead easy to see because crowds of people bad; remember all levels of fitness Definitely worth your while! parts ways to the left. at 630 feet, peak at 1,283 feet) hike it every year for their Good Friday make this hike every year. WHAT TO BRING: Bug spray, AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 21 Boonie Stomps Guam INFORMATION PROVIDED BY GUAM BOONIE STOMPERS

sunscreen, water, hiking boots, a path to your right that leads flashlights (if hiking for sunset) Trail Guide out over the valley and towards TIPS: Bring a hat as this is a the ocean. Take this short path Take the trail up this dirt fully exposed hike, use sunscreen, (to the right of a tree) to enjoy path, noticing the woodland and spray yourself with bug spray a lovely overlook of the grassy wildflowers that grow at this as the shaded jungle parts are full of hills, the valley where you have level. You will find your first of Tinago Falls mosquitoes just hiked, Cetti Bay, the end- about 14 stations of the cross, less ocean, and that beauti- Every Saturday, Guam Boonie Stompers offers public hikes Directions marked roman numeral I. Turn to a variety of destinations such as beaches, snorkeling sites, to marvel at the view of Cetti ful open sky. Each day brings a brilliant new scenery of sky waterfalls, mountains, caves, latte sites, and World War II sites. FROM THE NORTH (TAKING MARINE Bay and of the Cetti Bay Over- We meet at 9:00 AM in the Center Court of Chamorro Village in CORPS DRIVE): look. here on Guam. Hagatna. The cost is $5.00 for hikers over 17. Children must be ❶ Drive South on Marine Corps Drive Five or ten minutes up the At cross number 11 (roman accompanied by a responsible adult. Hikers should provide their until you hit the last light facing the trail you will find some beau- numeral: XI), you may see the own transportation. Guam’s trails are not developed. Weather Apra Harbor Navy base – Naval tiful, delicate woodland trees Mount Lam Lam trail to the left conditions can make the hikes more difficult than described. No reservations required. Base Guam. (and may choose to take rest if the grass is well-groomed. Keep on the main trail, which For more information: ❷ Turn left here and keep heading here), and will proceed on to www.facebook.com/GuamBoonieStompersInc South. You will be staying on the the darker red dirt section of veers to the right. or call 787-4238. main road to reach your destina- the trail. Notice how different Take in the sights of the tion, for about 20 minutes, and the terrain and ecology is in grassy meadows, scatters of you’ll never turn off. all these different vegetation orchids, and finally the East- August 10 ❸ You will pass downtown Agat, the patches and elevations. The ern and Northern sides of the Pagat Loop Difficult, 4 hours for 3 miles Agat boat harbor, and homes along trees turn to a more African sa- islands through the grass on Pagat Cave Only Medium, 3 hour for 2 miles the road. The houses go away as vannah look. this ridge trail. You will pass a We offer two ways to get to the same place! We descend the cliff the road twists and turns and goes Soon you will hike through variety of ridgeline trees and and through the limestone forest to explore the ocean arch with up and down in elevation. After 10- your first short jungle section will see the crosses through the possible jumping and swimming, explore the ancient Chamorro 15 minutes you will pass a Humatak (there are about four in to- arches created by vines. You village, then swim in the underground fresh water pool. sign on the right. Right after that is tal), where the terrain can be have arrived! Bring: 3 quarts water, hiking shoes, swim suit, flashlight, gloves, the small Sella Bay trail parking lot muddy and the sky is hidden To return to your car, go back sun screen, insect repellent, lunch, and camera. (a roundabout parking area under behind the ceiling of trees and the way you came. Special conditions: Stretches of steep trail, walking in cave very shady trees to your right) – vines. These shaded jungles are water and over rough limestone rocks. keep going straight. where all the mosquitoes live, ❹ Soon you will see a red wall to the so try to walk through at a brisk History of the Crosses August 17 Medium right, with a small space parallel to pace. At the top of Mount Jumul- Tinago Falls 3 hours for 2 miles the wall for cars to park. You have After the overlook, turn back long Manglo (pronounced “Hu- arrived at your destination of Cetti and keep going forward on the muyong”), 1,283 feet high, are We trek to a great scenic area on Guam, a series of waterfalls and Bay Overlook. trail. Pass another couple short crosses from years of Good Fri- cascades in the southeast. There is something for everyone to Parking jungle sections and reach the day celebrations. enjoy, from tiny tots playing in the cascades or to jumping, Virgin Mary grotto to your left, Each Good Friday, before waterfall showers, and a rock slide for the more tucked away in a cavern. This sunrise, a huge crowd of Catho- adventurous. There’s even a hammock for the more sedate. is a cave where Catholics come lic followers make the hikea to Bring: 2 quarts water, hiking shoes, gloves, to light a candle and pray every the top, stopping on the way to Good Friday. There are candles, swim suit, sun screen, insect repellent, Boonie Stomps pray at the Stations of the Cross lunch, and camera. a statue of the Virgin Mary, and and lighting a candle at the Vir- Special conditions: 10 rosaries here in this grotto. Be- gin Mary grotto. Possible mud, a short ware of the swarms of mosqui- On this day, Catholics will steep section. toes that also like to pray here carry a heavy cross (sometimes Complete T-Shirt! You will park here at the Cetti Bay as well. to earn a Boonie Stomp 600 pounds) up the mountain Stomp Tip: Overlook car park. Park diagonal to Now begin your grassy 1) Alcohol and hiking do not mix. as a symbol and reenactment the wall with the front right bumper meadow, slippery, wet lime- 2) Do not bring beverages with caffeine on hikes. of the cross Jesus carried dur- towards the wall, and the back bum- stone walk. (Interesting fact: 3) Bring plenty of water with you on hikes. ing his crucifixion, to adorn the 4) Do not hike alone and let someone know where per facing down the street where you the limestone here was formed peak among the others. you are going and your return time. came. before the island was uplifted 5) Always carry a well stocked personal first aid kit. The 14 white crosses on the out of the ocean and thus, coral 6) When hiking, lots of little snacks are better than one big meal Trailhead walk up are marked with ro- 7) Always bring a small flashlight in case you get lost, or delayed. grew on it.) Take care in your Save your phone battery for calls. As you look across the street from footing and DO NOT grab the man numerals and represent the Stations of The Cross – the Guam Boonie Stompers is a non-profit Guam corporation composed of your car, you will see a small, maga- grasses to help steady yourself volunteer leaders committed to leading hikes to and protecting zine-sized green sign slightly up the without gloves as it is sword 14 events leading up to Jesus’ the unique destinations on our island. road to the right that says, “Mt. Lam grass. Watch for holes, wet crucifixion. Lam”. This is also the beginning to the slopes, slick limestone with no At Cross 11 (XI) there is a Crosses hike. Walk across the street traction, puddles, and slippery trail to the left that takes the and begin walking just left of the sign, volcanic clay. If you have to hiker to Mount Lam Lam, the following the trail that immediately walk back at night because you tallest mountain in the world pivots left and up the hill. stayed too late at the sunset, from its base in the Mariana this section, and the jungles are Trench, which is over 6 miles the harder sections to descend deep at it’s lowest point. The – so make sure you have a flash- limestone found on Mount Lam light handy! Lam as well as Mount Jumul- Soon after passing through long Manglo is evidence that this jungle you will find on of the peaks were close enough to the most beautiful parts of this the ocean at one point for coral hike. Keep your eyes peeled for to grow on them. 22 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019

DO YOU HAVE A STORY TO SHARE? IF SO, LOG ON TO announces its summer menus, events and hours

GUAM.STRIPES.COM BY AUBRIENE MERFALEN, THE GUAM BREWERY TAP HOUSEP WHAT’S ON TAP The Guam Brewery Tap he Guam Brewery House serves craft beers Tap House (The Tap and craft foods made with T House), Guam’s in- the finest ingredients, in- novative craft beer and fused with proprietary pub concept in Tumon flavors, and served with Bay, announced its sea- Guam’s warmest Håfa sonal events and hours Adai spirit. Located in the today. heart of Tumon at the Blue The Tap House invites Lagoon Plaza at 941 Pale Founders Club members, San Vitores Road, The Tap residents and visitors to join House is open from 3 to them throughout the sum- 11 p.m. Monday through mer for special promotions and Friday and 11 a.m. to 11 events: p.m. on Saturday and Sun- day. For more informa- Pizza Mondays: Every tion about The Tap House Monday, The Guam Brewery Join us from 4-10 p.m. in our or its Founders Club, visit Tap House is pairing a free pizza front patio for our take on casual theguambrewery.com or slice with every pint order from summer dining beginning on engage with them on so- 6-10 p.m. Chef Jared has added Aug. 3. cial media – Facebook (@ some new pizza flavors that can “We are mixing it up this sum- theguambreweryandta- only be found at The Tap House. mer and featuring new dishes phouse), Instagram (@ All pizzas are $2 off on Monday and flavors by Chef Jared and guambrewery), and Twit- nights. his culinary team,” ter (@GuamTap). said Mark Stotts, The Sirena Brews & Tunes: Tap House’s general Tumon Bay Hoppy Blond, be firing up a grill and offering a a.m. to 11 p.m. The brew pub is Old Hagåtña Honey Rye, Island variety of delicious BBQ plates located in the Blue Lagoon Plaza IPA, Mansanita Amber Ale, and that complement a cold brew. in Tumon. Paseo Porter.

Do you have an idea for comics? Email it to

[email protected] AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 23

A Taste of Yap

Aug. 30 BY SUSAN GOOLIYAN,GOOOOOLIYYANAN,A andannd prprofessionalrofo essional pphotographershoh totogrgrapph from all over the YAP VISITORS BUREAU world. “A Taste of Yap combined with MantaFest is a great opportunity for more visitors to learn COLONIA,COLONIA, YAYAPP — Yap Visitors Bureau will about the culture about Yap”said Don Evans, holdhld a “A “AT Taste t of Yap” event on Friday August general manager of Yap Visitors Bureau. 30, 2019, starting at noon. The event, which There will be traditional dances, plus other lo- will be held at the Yap Living History Museum cal entertainment and various vendor booths. The Grounds, will showcase the local foods of Yap, Museum grounds will open at noon for the public plus art and handicraft items for sale. The festi- to visit the various booths and exhibits, and the val will also provide individuals and groups with evening program will start at 5:30 p.m. There will the opportunity to sell and showcase local foods be a traditional dance at 6 p.m. and another dance of the island, plus art and handicraft items. at 9 p.m. Victorian style streetlamps are current- The inaugural event is being held during Man- ly being installed on the museum grounds that ta Ray Bay Resort’s annual MantaFest (www. will provide additional lighting for the nighttime mantafest.com) which brings together amateur event. The festival will conclude at 10 p.m.

The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke Coconut Fe ACROSS 12345 6789 10 11 12 13 ota stiva 1 Place for a R l 14 15 16 massage Sept. 13-14 6 Chowder morsel 17 18 19 BY PPRISCILLARISCILLA MM. IAKOPOIAKOPO, 10 Highway exit a more than fitting venue for this celebratory cel 20 21 22 23 MARIANMARIANAS VISITORS AUTHORITY tribute to the staple of Pacific island living – the 14 Teach one-on- coconut tree.” one 24 25 26 SAIPAN, NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS – 15 "Unfaithful" star The event will feature educational displays 27 28 29 30 31 Rota, renowned among the islands of The Mari- 16 Burn soother and demonstrations related to the coconut, en- anas for its untouched nature beauty and warm 17 Make amends 32 33 34 35 36 tertainment, games, a Coconut Scavenger Hunt, (for) island hospitality, is gearing up to welcome visi- 18 Gambler's 37 38 39 40 tors for the 5th Rota Coconut Festival on Sept. and a variety of live cooking competitions on site such as the “manha titiyas” (tortillas made concern 41 42 43 44 13-14, 2019. 19 Overabundance “The Marianas Visitors Authority is excited with young coconut), “ahu” (soup made with 20 Like summer 45 46 47 to partner again this year with the young coconut), coconut candy, and “bunelos school classes, 48 49 50 51 52 Rota Mayor’s Office on the exciting Rota manha” (doughnuts made with young coconut). often 53 54 55 56 57 58 Coconut Festival, which will provide visitors Additional details will be announced shortly. 22 Bone brace 24 Hook, line and For more information, contact the Rota May- 59 60 61 62 a truly unique and friendly experience on the _____ beautiful island of Rota,” said MVA Managing or’s Office at 1.670.532.9451 or Field Supervi- 26 Worse for wear 63 64 65 Director Priscilla M. Iakopo. “Rota is renowned sor Sandra Atalig of the MVA at 1.670.532.0327 27 Informant 66 67 68 for its unspoiled natural environment, so it is or [email protected]. 30 Express a thought Copyright 2019 by The Puzzle Syndicate 32 Track down 33 "Cheers" regular DOWN 28 Exploding star 44 One that got 34 Kind of race 1 Hollywood 29 Some Winter away 37 State with sighting Olympians 46 Pint-sized certainty 2 Adorable 31 Warm up, in the 48 Theater platform 38 No ____ or 3 Kind of bomb kitchen 49 Fibula's neighbor reason 4 Country group 33 WSJ alternative 51 Ludicrous show 40 Corduroy ridge with the #1 35 Sheltered, at sea 52 Biblical disaster 41 Cooking fuel song "Amazed" 36 School session 54 Inventory unit 42 Italian import 5 Do a meteorolo- 39 Confusion 56 Nonsense 43 Furnace, for one gist's job, say 40 "The Wind in the 57 Follow orders 45 Ungraceful one 6 Dagger's Willows" critter 58 Holler 47 Favor companion 42 Roll up, as a flag 61 Friend's opposite 48 Case opener? 7 Big dipper 50 Wear away 8 Here-now link Answers to Last Week’s Crossword: 53 Dot above the i 9 State of disorder SLOE ADOBE ACME 55 Priest's helper 10 Type of sleeve OOPS CABAL LOAD 59 Anagram for 11 Repeat starting FRET CRED I TCARD "beat" letters, as in TENAC I TY COOL L Y Stripes Sports Trivia 60 70's hairdo "good as gold" STUD SM I TH 62 Delve into 12 Everest or SLEEPER OTTOMAN 63 Elvis movie, "___ Ararat HISS NEAR EL IDE Baseball analytics are becoming more widely accepted, and one of the stats at the forefront of that Happy" 13 Tom who sang OVA STARTER CAW is Wins Above Replacement (WAR). According to Baseball Reference, the all-time leader in WAR is 64 Pixar movie set "I Won't Back REMI T STAY ARMS in Mexico Down" TREMOLO LEPROSY Babe Ruth with 182.5. With 100, who is the active player with the most Wins Above Replacement? 65 Prop for Picasso 21 Get what was PLANS LASS 66 Ill at ___ left? TITLED WH I TECAP 67 Follow, as 23 Stiffly formal ADMON I T I ON NOGO

Answer Pujols Albert advice 25 ___ and board MEND DENSE APES 68 Gas additive 27 Refinery residue PATE ANGER LEST

68'2.8 (GLWHGE\0DUJLH(%XUNH 'LIILFXOW\(DV\ ,KtdK^K>s͗    ĂĐŚƌŽǁŵƵƐƚĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞ ŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĞĂĐŚĐŽůƵŵŶŵƵƐƚ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĂŶĚ  ĞĂĐŚƐĞƚŽĨϯďLJϯďŽdžĞƐŵƵƐƚ       ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͘     Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku:                                                                                     &RS\ULJKWE\7KH3X]]OH6\QGLFDWH          24 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION AUGUST 9 − AUGUST 15, 2019 Volume 6, No. 26 ©SS 2019 FRIDAY, AUGUST 9, 2019

Tom Cruise returns as Capt. Pete “Maverick” Mitchell in “Top Gun: Maverick,” the sequel to the 1986 hit “Top Gun.”

‘Top Gun: Maverick’ is Navy-approved, down to the plot details Page 2 Paramount Pictures PAGE 2 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND S TRIPES• Friday, August 9, 2019

MILITARY Latest ‘Top Gun’ movie is Navy approved

BY NANCY MONTGOMERY Stars and Stripes What’s Capt. Pete “Maverick” Mitchell been up to the past 32 years since the Navy fighter pilot first expressed his need for speed in 1986’s highest-grossing film? Why, as a rear admiral played by Ed Harris asks Maverick in the “Top Gun: Maverick” trailer released last month, is he still a captain despite more than 30 years of service and an unparalleled record shooting down enemy planes? Cmdr. Ron Flanders, spokesman for Naval Air Forces in San Diego, can’t, by contract, say. “We’ll probably have to see the movie to see what he’s been doing,” Flanders said. Chances are it won’t have been any- thing awful. “The Navy did review the script so that A, it was accurate and B, was consistent with the ideals of the Navy,” Flanders said. The Defense Department has script approval rights, just as the military does over any movie that enlists its support. If the filmmakers decline to make changes desired by the military, its support, such as access, equipment and troops, can be withdrawn. In the first movie, the script originally Paramount Pictures called for Goose, Maverick’s sidekick, to die in a midair collision, according to a Tom Cruise flies in an F/A-18 in a scene from “Top Gun: Maverick,” which will be released next summer. 1986 story in Time magazine. The Navy said too many pilots were crashing so the aspects officials found problematic as well for all costs “not aligned with current an hour for flying time. script was changed to kill Goose as he as be provided a screening of the finished operations,” such as flights not deemed to Super Hornets cost at least $24,400 an tried to eject during a spinout. film before public premieres, according to be providing training. hour to fly, according to a recent estimate According to a production assistance the agreement. Flanders said there will be a lot of fly- by IHS Jane’s, a British publishing com- agreement for the upcoming film posted Paramount in return got access to naval ing, and that pretty much all of it would pany specializing in military, aerospace online by the Washington Business Jour- facilities and troops in three states and be real, including, unlike in the original and transportation topics. nal, senior military staffers would “review a Nimitz-class nuclear-powered aircraft movie, scenes with actors in the aircraft. “It may be even more than that,” Flan- with public affairs the script’s thematics carrier; permission to fly aircraft, put “Whatever you’re going to be seeing in ders said, but whatever it is, Paramount and weave in key talking points relevant cameras on and in F/A-18 Super Hornets ‘Top Gun: Maverick,’ that is the real deal,” to the aviation community” and be on set and Navy helicopters, cast training in he said. will be on the hook for it. to provide and to “depict action scenes water survival and aircraft seat ejection; “Top Gun” producers 32 years ago “There will be no cost to the taxpayer,” accurately.” and 20 Marines to appear as an official paid the military $1.8 million for using he said. In addition, the DOD was to be provided funeral detail. its naval air stations, carriers, planes and [email protected] a rough cut of the movie to address any Paramount has to reimburse the Navy pilots, according to Time, including $7,600 Twitter: @montgomerynance USAF seeks feedback on new maternity uniforms

BY JENNIFER H. SVAN termine if the new maternity Stars and Stripes uniforms are meeting the needs of pregnant airmen and guide KAISERSLAUTERN, Ger- the Air Force as it continues to many — More than a year after rolling out maternity uniforms design and develop maternity with a full-stretch waist panel uniforms, officials said. in the pants, roomier coat and New maternity ABUs were other comfort features, the Air first made available in Decem- Force is conducting a survey to ber 2017. get feedback from female air- A full-stretch panel at the men on the new design. waist was subsequently added All women serving in the after airmen complained the Air Force will receive an email waistband was restrictive and about the survey, but only those uncomfortable. Some airmen re- who have worn the new mater- nity uniform or are currently ported cutting the elastic in the wearing it will be invited to waistband to relieve pressure complete the full questionnaire, and then having to use safety officials from the Air Force Uni- pins to keep the pants up. form Office said in a statement. Other new features include The online survey is open to coats that have flaps on the active-duty, Reserve and Guard chest, a pencil pocket, adjustable members and will be available side tabs and more room in the until Sept. 23. front. The Air Force wants to ensure For questions about the survey the uniforms are comfortable or maternity uniforms, send an U.S. Air Force and can be worn through an entire pregnancy, uniform of- email to: AFLCMC.WNUV.TAC. Stacey Butler, right, a clothing designer with the Air Force Life Cycle Management Center’s Air Force fice chief Tracy Roan said in a [email protected]. Uniform Office, measures Capt. Taylor Harrison’s maternity Airman Battle Uniform in 2017. The Air statement. [email protected] Force is seeking feedback from women on its new maternity uniform. Feedback will help to de- Twitter: @stripesktown Friday, August 9, 2019 •STARS AND S TRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 3

MILITARY Visiting vets recall Korean War and its armistice

BY MATTHEW KEELER Stars and Stripes SEOUL, South Korea — Dozens of Ko- rean War veterans, including 17 Ameri- cans, returned to the divided peninsula to commemorate the 66th anniversary of the signing of the armistice that ended the fighting between the U.S.-backed South and its communist rivals in the North. Dick Munson, 87, who was visiting South Korea from Ely, Nev., recalled learning about the armistice while he was at his post called Christmas Hill near the front lines on July 27, 1953. “I was thinking about the anniver- sary of the signing of the armistice and excited to be here for that,” he said in an interview before a ceremony Saturday in Seoul. “Those of us serving up there called it Christmas in July.” South Korea’s Ministry of Patriots and Veterans Affairs hosted Munson and more than 100 other veterans and fam- ily members from 16 nations to express the South’s appreciation for the sacrifices made during the three-year war. During the revisit program , the vets participated in numerous cultural events and tours, including a trip to the truce vil- lage of Panmunjom and other sites in the heavily fortified Demilitarized Zone. They also laid white flowers on the headstones of fallen servicemembers at the United Nations Memorial Cemetery in the southern city of Busan. They were welcomed with a standing ovation and honored during the annual United Nations Forces participation day ceremony in Seoul, which was broadcast on national TV. PHOTOS BY MATTHEW KEELER/Stars and Stripes That event was also attended by South Korean War veteran Theodore Trousdale Jr. , shown at the United Nations Memorial Cemetery in Busan, South Korea, on July 25, was Korean Prime Minister Lee Nak-yeon, among 17 American veterans who visited South Korea to commemorate the signing of the armistice that ended the fighting in Korea. the commander of United Nations Com- mand and U.S. Forces Korea Gen. Robert Abrams, and Eighth Army commander close call he had with enemy fire during Lt. Gen. Michael Bills. an observe and capture mission. “These brave soldiers endured combat, “While I was digging a hole, I heard a which often had them outnumbered and cling. I think someone is shooting at me,” underequipped. Still they resisted, driven he said. “I picked my pack up, got down by the will to protect the freedoms that behind a hill and I looked at the pack — it we all cherish,” Abrams said in open- had a bullet hole. I opened my pack and ing remarks. “They faced the toughest my metal mess kit had been hit.” imaginable conditions — freezing winters, sweltering summers and unforgiving Back-to-back tours terrain.” The ability to serve and live to tell your Eighteen countries, including the Unit- war stories is rewarding on its own, but ed States and South Korea, joined the war another vet managed to survive two tours under the umbrella of the U.S.-led United with two different branches of service. Nations Command after North Korea Theodore Trousdale Jr., 88, of Mel- invaded the South on June 25, 1950. bourne, Fla., was 19 years old and en- Hostilities ceased when the armistice rolled in the Army ROTC program at the was signed in Panmunjom by a U.S. gen- University of Florida when the war broke eral representing the UNC and a North out. Korean general representing his country Trousdale said he knew he was about and its ally China. The nations remain to be drafted, so he joined the Army technically at war to this day since they and found himself in Korea in 1951 as a failed to agree on a peace treaty. combat medic providing treatment for The UNC also held a ceremony at the countless casualties. Joint Security Area in the DMZ that Following completion of his first tour, divides the peninsula. he joined the Navy as what was known then as a frogman, or a trained combat ‘Coming back is closure’ diver, and served a second tour onboard a submarine in 1952 until the end. The 17 American veterans who made the trip had varying motives for join- “We would come ashore into North ing the Cold War conflict, which is often Korean War veterans were honored during the 66th anniversary of the armistice Korea along the Sea of Japan and the known as the Forgotten War because it agreement at the United Nations Forces Participation Day ceremony in Seoul, South China Sea at night and set off demolition was sandwiched between World War II Korea, on July 27. on railroad tunnels,” he said. “We had to and Vietnam. get back into the rubber raft and get back Many simply didn’t have a choice, while “It is so good to come back and see the Marine Corps at age 17 and spent onto the submarine before dawn.” others passed up life-changing opportuni- the progress of this wonderful nation,” all of 1952 on the Korean Peninsula as a Trousdale first returned to South Korea ties to heed the call to go to war. he said. “It makes me almost feel it was machine-gunner. in 1998, returning again 21 years later. Munson was drafted at age 19 and worth it.” “I was expected to only last seven “It’s been wonderful,” he said. “The Ko- served the last 10 months of the war as an Jim Judge, 86, said he was eager to go to minutes out on the battlefield,” he said, rean people are really appreciative of all infantryman with both the 45th and 2nd war and gave up a potential professional jokingly. we did for them. They have really honored Infantry Divisions. baseball career with the Boston Red Although Judge exceeded expectations us the best way they could.” “Coming back is closure,” he said. Sox to enlist. The Boston native joined in his first day on the job, he described a [email protected] PAGE 4 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND S TRIPES• Friday, August 9, 2019

MILITARY Military mail delivery may be altered

BY WYATT OLSON Stars and Stripes Servicemembers stationed overseas probably don’t think much about how their mail to and from the United States is delivered through the immense system of Army, Air Force and Navy post offices. In 2018, the Defense Depart- ment’s Military Postal Service Agency oversaw the delivery of 88,618 tons of packages and letters sent or received by over- seas soldiers, sailors, Marines, airmen and federal employees at about 1.2 million post office boxes, unit mail rooms, buildings and other delivery points. That was roughly equivalent to mailing 1,310 Abrams tanks. The average military mail cus- tomer has also likely given little thought to an arcane interna- tional treaty called the Universal Postal Union — but they’re apt to hear a lot more about it by October. The Trump administration announced last year that the U.S. would withdraw from the 144-year-old treaty, primar- ily over growing complaints by some U.S.-based businesses that packages sent to the States from other countries — primar- ily China — have much lower postal rates. In some cases, U.S. businesses spend more to mail a package domestically than a China-based firm would pay to ship to America. THOMAS CROUGH/U.S. Army “The big fight is over delivery Military working dog Roger sniffs mail for contraband at Joint Military Mail Terminal, Camp Arifjan, Kuwait, in 2017. charges,” said James Campbell Jr., a Washington -based attor- postage rates,” the Postal Ser- questions from Stars and Stripes. But the Trump administration “And there’s no guarantee that ney who specializes in regula- vice said in a statement to Stars “The UPU issue pertains to is already at odds with European the new agreements will be as tions concerning international and Stripes. international civil mail postage allies over his unilateral with- favorable regarding allowable shipping. But the Postal Service is also remuneration, not military mail drawal from a 2015 nuclear deal items, package sizes, weights and “The Trump administration undertaking “parallel efforts” which is considered domestic with Iran in which the nations quantities. We can only hope for is saying that we are delivering in the event the U.S. withdraws and does not have international traded sanctions relief for Iran’s the best.” Chinese packages, in particular from the treaty, including postage,” Graeve said. delay in enriching uranium. One likely and immediate — but all foreign e-commerce “addressing and prioritizing “[The Defense Department] President Donald Trump has outcome of U.S. withdrawal packages, really — for some- military mailing issues,” the also frequently criticized fellow from the postal union would be where between a third to half of is developing contingency plans statement said. in the event a host nation does NATO-state members for con- increased customs security for what we’re charging Americans tributing too little for operating The Postal Service declined to abrogate an agreement to mini- both military and civilian mail, for the same service. That’s expenses. elaborate on what those military mize any potential disruptions said Campbell, who sits on the crazy. The domestic merchants Consequently, some countries mailing issues might be. State Department’s Advisory are complaining about that.” and continue providing support may not have the appetite to ne- Pete Graeve, chief of plans and Committee on International to our servicemembers and their gotiate a postal agreement with policy for the Military Postal Postal and Delivery Services. families.” the United States. October deadline “The reality is that postal Service Agency, was optimistic John Couch, a co-founder of packages have become the The U.S. is slated to drop out about the potential impact leav- Customs scrutiny ShipitAPO, which helps overseas conduit of choice for drug smug- of the postal union treaty in Oc- ing the postal union will have on servicemembers receive pack- glers, intellectual property viola- tober unless changes are made the APO — or Army Post Office, Among the primary host ages from retailers that will not by the Bern, Switzerland-based also used by the Air Force — and nations are Germany, Italy, send to APO and FPO addresses, tions and all kinds of stuff,” he body that governs the system. the Navy’s Fleet Post Office, or Portugal, the United Kingdom, has tried unsuccessfully for said. “The reality is that Customs Because the treaty has been FPO. Belgium, the Netherlands, months to get clear answers from has no idea what’s in the mail in effect so long and includes “The bottom line is that we Romania, Bulgaria, Greece, government officials about what stream. almost all the world’s nations, the have host nation agreements/ Turkey, Kuwait, Australia, Japan the military mail landscape will “If the U.S. leaves the UPU in ripple effects of withdrawal are status of forces agreements/ and South Korea. look like if the U.S. leaves the October, my guess for APO/FPO unpredictable. diplomatic notes that allow the If those host nations were deal- postal union. mail is that there’s going to be The U.S. Postal Service seems [Military Postal Service] to oper- ing only with U.S. withdrawal “Even if new postal treaties increased customs scrutiny, at to be counting on a meeting ate in host nations, and we expect from the Universal Postal Union can be reestablished with each least in the big countries. That’s scheduled for September during host nations will not unilaterally treaty, it seems less likely they APO-FPO host nation, this will going to entail more costs.” which treaty members will dis- abrogate those agreements,” would abrogate agreements gov- not happen overnight,” Couch That increased scrutiny and cuss changes to “terminal dues,” Graeve wrote in a response to erning military mail. said. cost will come regardless of the which are the rates each member treaty status, though, he said. nation pays for delivery of mail Last year, Congress passed a within other countries. law that says beginning in 2021, “This will provide a new op- If the U.S. leaves the UPU in October, my guess for APO/FPO all postal packages must undergo portunity for UPU members to ‘ the same strict customs pro- collaborate and develop solutions mail is that there’s going to be increased customs scrutiny, at cedures required for packages to end the distortionary effects least in the big countries. That’s going to entail more costs. shipped via Federal Express and associated with excessively low ’ the like, he said. rates for certain foreign origin James Campbell Jr. [email protected] mail, as compared to domestic Advisory Committee on International Postal and Delivery Services Twitter: @WyattWOlson Friday, August 9, 2019 •STARS AND S TRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 5

MILITARY US troops help train Georgian and Ukrainian Agility tests forces amid tensions with nearby Russia

BY MARTIN EGNASH Stars and Stripes More than 3,300 soldiers from 14 nations began the largest annual exercise in the former Soviet republic of Georgia aimed at strengthening security in the tense Black Sea region. During the two-week Agile Spirit war games, which began July 28, soldiers will face and use modern military equipment and hybrid warfare tactics such as cyberwarfare to defend against an attack by a “near-peer” adversary, Brig. Gen. Nikoloz Janjgava, deputy chief of staff of the Georgian armed forces, told Stars and Stripes. He said that the opposing forces in the exercise scenario are not modeled on the Russians. However, Russia is using similar tactics in the ongoing conflict with Ukraine and used them in the brief war it fought with Geor- gia in 2008. “We are trying not to use the ‘R’ word during the exercise,” Janjgava said. About 20% of Georgia’s interna- tionally recognized territory is under Russian occupation, includ- ing Abkhazia on the Black Sea and South Ossetia, which is about 50 miles away from the Vaziani Training Area where Agile Spirit is taking place. About 1,500 U.S. troops and a similar number of Georgians are participating in the drills. Twelve other countries, including Ukraine, have sent a total of 300 participants. U.S. and Georgian troops opened the event with a live-fire attack on enemy-held bunkers. They plan to move into defensive operations later in the exercise. Agile Spirit gives Georgia and Ukraine more experience work- ing with NATO allies, Janjgava said. Both countries are on track to become part of the alliance in the near future, the Georgian Ministry of Defense said . The drills also help to prepare Georgian soldiers for upcom- ing deployments to Afghanistan, where Georgia is one of the top troop contributors to the NATO- Clockwise from top: U.S. led mission, Janjgava added. soldiers assigned to 2nd U.S. soldiers from the Army’s Squadron, 2nd Cavalry 2nd Cavalry Regiment, based Regiment, prepare for the in Vilseck, Germany, brought live-fire exercise during Stryker armored vehicles to Agile Spirit 19 at the Georgia for the war games. The Vaziani Training Area near wheeled armored vehicles can Tbilisi, Georgia . A U.S. navigate more easily through soldier of 2nd Squadron, Georgia’s hilly terrain than 2nd Cavalry Regiment, tracked vehicles, Maj. Nathaniel makes his way down the Carter said. stairs at the conclusion “This exercise shows how of the squadron’s room maneuverable Strykers are in any breaching and clearing given terrain,” Carter said. exercise. U.S. soldiers When the cavalrymen finish stop to pull security the exercise, they plan on having as they advance to the a “culture day,” sightseeing in simulated enemy targets Georgia’s nearby capital, Tbilisi, for the live-fire exercise. and spending more time with A U.S. soldier scans their Georgian comrades, he said. the area for troops to “It’s been great so far,” Carter determine if they properly said. “I’m impressed with the employed camouflage Georgian soldiers and look and concealment during forward to spending the next few training. weeks with them.” PHOTOS BY LASHIC PATTERSON [email protected] U.S. Army Twitter: @Marty_Stripes PAGE 6 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND S TRIPES• Friday, August 9, 2019

MILITARY US civil affairs soldiers aim to boost diplomacy Strengthening ties and development, improve education in Djibouti

BY CHAD GARLAND Stars and Stripes DJIBOUTI — Back home, they’re fire- fighters, pipefitters, mechanics, lawyers or students. But deployed to this small country in the Horn of Africa, civil affairs soldiers serve as cultural and governance experts who form a key part of the U.S. mission here, as it competes with other world pow- ers making inroads in East Africa. These servicemembers may be called upon to advise a local government on a public works project, or do something as simple as organize a neighborhood sports outing. “The joke in civil affairs is we hug people and hand out soccer balls,” said Maj. Christian Booth, operations officer with the Syracuse, N.Y.-based 403rd Civil Affairs Battalion, which ended a nine- month deployment to Djibouti last month. But Booth, like others in civil affairs, said they assist the U.S. mission by help- ing to build trust in Americans. “Without trust, you won’t have collabo- ration and partnership,” Booth said. Their efforts align with U.S. Africa Command’s goal of being a “partner of choice” in the region, where its focus is shifting from battling extremists to competing with China, Russia and others for the influence and access necessary to advance U.S. goals, protect American lives and property, and promote greater security. The U.S. aims to strengthen civic insti- tutions, improve education and boost job growth. That won’t be achieved with force projection alone, said former AFRICOM ALLIE DELURY/U.S. Air Force chief Gen. Thomas Waldhauser. “The long-term solution has to do with U.S. Army civil affairs personnel play soccer with a boy in Djibouti in 2016. diplomacy and development,” he said in an interview at Camp Lemonnier, the A 23-year-old woman named Aisha had only permanent U.S. base in Africa, home her sights on becoming a psychologist, to Combined Joint Task Force-Horn of a rare profession in Djibouti, she said. Africa and just four miles from a new Roblah said his goal was to become a Chinese navy base. “This is going to be U.S. citizen. And Mourad Abdulrahman, the center hub of a lot of activity, both a man in his 20s who has been coming to economic [and] political and perhaps even the group for months, had two goals: stay militarily.” happy and surpass Jeff Bezos in wealth. The 4,500 Americans at the base are “I’m going to miss this,” Volk said later, poised to respond to security crises, but on the drive back to base. Regulars like provide more than combat power. For Aisha, who is about his daughter’s age, example, he said, airlift has aided hu- had become like family, he said. manitarian emergencies across Africa, In addition to running discussion which is about three times the size of the groups, civil affairs soldiers help veteri- continental United States. narians keep livestock healthy, support hospitals that treat cancer patients in A cultural advantage Rwanda or prevent Ebola infections in Burundi, and have trained park rang- English language discussion groups led ers to combat poaching in Tanzania and by civil affairs soldiers at locations around Uganda. Djibouti complement diplomatic efforts, Their work often focuses on improving officials said at the U.S. Embassy in the locals’ access to basic needs such as water, country’s capital. sanitation, health or education, and helps “People are very, very hungry for Eng- to shore up civil institutions by addressing lish,” said Embassy spokeswoman Jen- their vulnerabilities, said Booth, the oper- nifer Banuls, who said many embassies ations officer at the U.S. base. All of those would like to offer similar programs, but SHAWN NICKEL/U.S. Air Force require engaging with the community. lack the staff to do so. “It’s great public U.S. Army Capt. Michael Volk, center, a civil affairs officer, works with students during A measure of their effectiveness is diplomacy. … The only reason we can do the first-ever English language discussion group in Djibouti in 2018. the phone calls they get, asking them to this is because of Camp Lemonnier.” return somewhere, or inviting them to In June, Capt. Mike Volk, who’s a before opening the gates for the vehicles ‘I’m going to miss this’ a special event in the community or to lawyer back home in rural Pennsylvania, to enter. launch a new project, Booth said. and a handful of other soldiers traveled to “God bless America,” said Doudou The conversations reflected that the After the English discussion in June, a vocational high school in the Djiboutian Roblah, the flagbearer, who was going to English discussions and other means of for instance, Roblah, the young man with capital’s Balbala neighborhood to lead a take part in the language lab — but only soft diplomacy appear to be having an the American flag, asked Volk’s replace- discussion group. after he’d posed for photos alongside the effect in Djibouti. One young man said he ment, Capt. Noah Hodges, if his soldiers It had been weeks since they’d last visit- soldiers, draping the flag over his shoul- wanted to be a World Wrestling Entertain- could come back and transform a dusty lot ed the school, and it would be one of Volk’s ders and theirs. ment star. Another was studying account- beside the school into a soccer pitch. last visits before he handed off duties to a “I see many familiar faces,” Volk said, ing at a local university, but said he might Hodges would have to check into it, he new batch of civil affairs soldiers. scanning the classroom filled with at like to write for WWE, prompting a brief, said. But pending the official go-ahead, he As their small convoy of trucks reached least 20 people. The large group split into passionate discussion about the reality of offered the young man a consolation: “We the school, a crowd rushed to greet them. several smaller ones, and Djiboutians and professional wrestling. The consensus: can definitely play soccer with you.” One young man, charged with after-school Americans began discussing the topic of The shows are scripted, but the sweat is [email protected] security, displayed an American flag the evening: life goals. real. Twitter: @chadgarland Friday, August 9, 2019 •STARS AND S TRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 7

MILITARY 101 years later, Union vet gets gravestone

burial place of German-born Marker dedicated to American Adam Worth, who, after being erroneously reported Civil War soldier as killed in action, left the army for a life of crime. Worth ended in London cemetery up in London, where he died and was buried in a mass pauper’s BY CHRISTOPHER DENNIS grave in Highgate Cemetery. Stars and Stripes The grave of Ferdinand Thomas Barzetti, who fought LONDON — A lone bugler under a false name so his mother played taps in a London cem- wouldn’t know he’d enlisted, etery as, more than 100 years was also identified by Ham- after his death, a soldier who merson, as were the graves of fought in the U.S. Civil War was two soldiers who fought in black honored with a headstone dedi- regiments and four women who cated to his memory. served as nurses in America’s Seth Watson Herrick served in bloodiest conflict. the 2nd Maryland Eastern Shore Herrick’s grave was the 250th Infantry for three years during that Hammerson has located. the War Between the States. Born in Maine in 1834, he “I managed to get hold of a enlisted in the Union Army when copy of Maj. Herrick’s pension he was 27 and rose through the file and it had a claim for the fu- ranks to become a major. After neral that said where the burial the war, he moved to the U.K., was,” Hammerson explained. became a British subject and “In most cases, it is nowhere that died a poor man 101 years ago. easy.” When Herrick was buried Historians estimate that up CHRISTOPHER DENNIS/Stars and Stripes at Hendon Cemetery in north to 50,000 men from England, London in 1918, no headstone Matthew O’Neill, left, camp commander for Ensign John Davis Camp 10 Sons of Union Veterans of Scotland and Wales served in the was erected to mark his final the Civil War, presents Robert Herrick with a U.S. flag during a ceremony to dedicate a gravestone to Civil War, mainly on the Union resting place. On July 27, that Herrick’s great-grandfather, American Civil War veteran Maj. Seth Herrick, in north London. side. was put right with the dedication “One is always pleased … of a simple gravestone, provided who found Herrick’s grave and Herrick knew his great-grand- 20% of the burial places have being able to identify them and by the Veterans’ Affairs Admin- was instrumental in arranging father was buried in London but commemorative headstones, he let the local community know,” istration in Washington. for a headstone to be erected; didn’t know exactly where until said. Hammerson said. “On the whole, Among the dozens who attend- and Herrick’s great-grandson, Hammerson contacted him to In 2015, Hammerson found ed the ceremony were Lt. Col. Robert Herrick. say he had found Maj. Herrick’s the grave in north London of a [the community] seems to be Jesse F. Moore, assistant Army “It was a real honor to have burial place. Hammerson has U.S. Medal of Honor recipient, interested to find out that they attache from the U.S. Embassy my great-grandfather remem- spent years studying Britons Maurice Wagg, and arranged for have a Civil War veteran, and in London; the mayor of the Lon- bered in this way by this group of who fought in America’s Civil a headstone to be erected at the that can be a focus for historical don borough of Barnet, Reuben people,” said Herrick, who trav- War and has located hundreds unmarked site where his body and educational activities.” Thompstone; British amateur eled from California to attend the of veterans’ graves in England, had lain for nearly a century. [email protected] historian Michael Hammerson, ceremony. Scotland and Wales. Only about Hammerson also found the Twitter: @chrisbdennis Army reservist wins gold in shooting event in Peru

BY SCOTT WYLAND Stars and Stripes ‘ Excited for a first place today. … Also An American soldier won gold congrats to Ginny Thrasher for bronze. in the women’s 50-meter, three- Mission accomplished. position rifle shooting at the Pan ’ American Games, making her U.S. Army 1st Lt. Sarah Beard a strong contender in the 2020 gold medal winner Olympics. 1st Lt. Sarah Beard, 28, an Army reservist, came from native, wrote on her Facebook La Cruz by 0.7 points. behind to grab first place page. “Ups and downs, but tak- Beard’s win last year in the July 28 in the competition in ing in all the lessons that come Championship of the Americas Lima, Peru. Teammate Ginny along with it. Also congrats to had already landed her a spot, Thrasher won bronze, putting Ginny Thrasher for bronze. Mis- U.S. Army photos known as a quota place, in next two American women on the sion accomplished.” year’s Olympics, which will be U.S. Army 1st Lt. Sarah Beard, center, stands with silver medalist podium. Contestants shot a 5.56 mm held in Tokyo. Eglys De La Cruz, left, of Cuba and bronze medalist Ginny Thrasher, “Excited for a first place rifle from prone, standing and her U.S. teammate, at the 2019 Pan American Games in Lima, Peru. today,” Beard, a Danville, Ind. kneeling positions at targets 50 That left open two quota meters away. places in the event. Thrasher Beard started strong in the seized one with her third-place Max D. Lederer Jr., Publisher This publication is a compilation of stories from Stars and Stripes, the finish, and silver medalist De La editorially independent newspaper authorized by the Department of Defense qualifying round, nailing a per- Terry Leonard, Editor for members of the military community. fect 400 score in the prone, and Cruz took the other. Robert H. Reid, Senior Managing Editor The contents of Stars and Stripes are unofficial, and are not to be consid- moved on to the finals with the “A bronze medal has never Tina Croley, Managing Editor for Content ered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including second-best score behind Puerto felt so much like gold to me,” the Defense Department or the military services. The Guam Edition of Stars Rico’s Yarimar Mercado. Thrasher said in a statement. Doreen Wright, Guam Edition Editor and Stripes is published jointly by Stars and Stripes and this newspaper. In the finals, Beard dropped “Any day I can represent my Michael Davidson, Revenue Director The appearance of advertising in this publication, including inserts or to third place after the kneel- supplements, does not constitute endorsement by the Department of De- country on the podium is a great ing portion, then rebounded fense or Stars and Stripes of the products or services advertised. day, and being able to win a CONTACT US to second place after shooting Products or services advertised in this publication shall be made avail- quota for Team USA to compete 633 3rd Street NW, Suite 116, Washington, D.C. 20001 able for purchase, use, or patronage without regard to race, color, religion, from the prone position. In the in Tokyo is an achievement I’m Editorial: (202) 886-0005 sex, national origin, age, marital status, physical handicap, political affilia- standing position, she battled proud of.” Advertising: (202) 886-0014 tion, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. Cuba’s Eglys De La Cruz in a Additional contact information: stripes.com © Stars and Stripes, 2019 tight match. [email protected] Beard’s 454.9 score bested De Twitter: @wylandstripes PAGE 8 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND S TRIPES• Friday, August 9, 2019