DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe November 26, 2001 Our 15th Anniversary This month marks the end of 15 years of Gemütlichkeit. The first is- STYRIA’S WINE ROADS sue was January, 1987. Some read- Austrians liken the rolling hills and vineyards of the southern part of Styria to Tuscany. The ers have been with us the whole similarities end, however, when it comes to prices and the number of American tourists. way and others are brand new. Sin- cerest thanks to all. ell an Austrian you’ve been to point out the differences. “If this We started traveling frequently the Styrian Wine Road (Süd- were Tuscany,” she says, “at this to Europe — and Germany, Austria, T steirische Weinstrasse) and she time of year, everything would be Switzerland in particular — in the look wistfully into the distance and brown.” mid 70s. But since 1987 Liz and I say “Ahhh, the Styrian Toscana.” In True, on a hot day in late July, have made some 40 trips to our part, this is because of a memorable the view is a palette of innumerable three countries to research hotels, advertising slogan, but also because greens — the rolling fields, the restaurants, backroads, and destina- the landscape really does look some- shimmering leaves of the poplar tions. These days we also rely on thing like the Italian region of Tusca- trees and the broad pointed leaves the good judgement of our corre- ny. Located on the border with Slov- strung along the vines — but not a spondents Doug Linton, Jim enia, the southern Styrian hint of anything parched or with- By Doug countryside is a blend of Johnson and the Claudia Fischer- Linton ered. In fact, its downright humid: Roger Holliday team. crescent hills, tall singular perfect weather to sit in the shade of In the course of all this travel, poplar trees, the occasional farm- a vine arbor and enjoy a cool, per- we’ve stayed at or inspected hun- house, and vineyards one after the spiring glass of fruitful Styrian dreds of hotels and thousands of other. white wine. hotel rooms. Surveys tell us that Frau Jakobé, the owner of one of Which brings up another differ- most of you consider the choice of these vineyards at the top of the last ence in the two regions. Rather than where to stay one of your most im- crest before the border, prefers to Tuscany’s deep red wines, southern portant travel decisions. There’s are Continued on page 3… differences in what you’re willing to spend for a night’s lodging, so we have tried to cover a broad spec- Essential Switzerland trum. The majority of you seem to be his is the second in our three- #1. Lauterbrunnen Valley & Environs about where we are, somewhere in part series on what we think For our money, this is Switzer- the middle — mid-priced hotels T are the 10 leading destinations land’s number one showcase. High, most of the time, with the occasion- in each of the three countries we slender waterfalls cascade in long, al foray into luxury. cover — the essential Germany, Aus- silvery ribbons staight down its tria and Switzerland. green flanks. Quaint, traffic-free At any level we are always con- villages perch above it on grassy scious of the price-to-value ratio. This month we offer By Bob shelves, and towering over all are Where can our readers get the most our Switzerland answer to Bestor the famed mountain peaks Eiger, Continued on page 2… the frequently asked ques- tion, “I only have a few days, what Monch and Jungfrau. Some of the This Month in Gemütlichkeit should I see?” world’s most spectacular scenery. Features Page Best Towns: Mürren, Wengen Styria’s Wine Roads ...... 1 The destinations are listed in Finding Pre-War Germany ...... 1 and Lauterbrunnen. Recommended Web Sites ...... 8 order of our preference, as if we Readers’ Forum ...... 7 Top Sights: • The ride to the Commentary were advising a first-time traveler Dear Subscriber, 15th Anniversary ...... 1 what to see in each country. This is Jungfraujoch, Europe’s highest rail- Hotels/Restaurants way station • Trümmelbach Falls Hotel Sattlerhof, Gamlitz A ...... 3 obviously a subjective process and Weingut Harkamp, St. Nickolai A ...... 4 Weingut Kästenburg, Ehrenhausen A ...... 4 you may disagree with the choices. Suggested Activities: Ride the Schloss Seggau, Leibnitz A ...... 4 train to Schynige Platte (on the route Restaurant Sattlerhof, Gamlitz A ...... 5 For example, Lucerne, a wonderful Weingut Erich and Walter Polz, Spielfeld A ...... 5 destination, is not included. This list to the Jungfraujoch), eat lunch at the Winzerhaus Kogelberg, Kaindorf A ...... 5 Hotel Heitzmann, Zell am See A ...... 8 isn’t the top 10, it’s our top 10. Here hotel (or bring a picnic), then walk Restaurant Le Mazot, Zermatt S ...... 8 Hotel Fürstenhof, Vienna A ...... 8 is Switzerland: the approximately two-hour “pan- Hotel an der Kapelle, Meiningen ...... 8 Continued on page 5… http://www.gemut.com December 2001/January 2002

S http://www.gemut.com Vieux Manoir au Lac in Murten, Gemütlichkeit, A double room at the DEAR SUBSCRIBER Switzerland. Anker, in Martkheidenfeld, was $83. Continued from page 1 Then there are the truly bargain In late 2001, that same room is $86. for their money? The most important hotels that may not have all the at- The dollar in 1987 brought 1.82 DM. element in our evaluation of a hotel tributes we look for but whose prices Today it fetches 2.19 DM. is the room itself; cleanliness, quality are well below their peers. In that Fierce competition has kept car of materials and furnishings, size, category are such places as Munich’s rental rates and transatlantic airline decor, view, lighting and air quality Hotel Kraft, the Pension Heim near ticket prices about the same as they (we’ll take an airy, cool room in a Füssen in Bavaria, L’Auberge De were 15 years ago. Remove that com- two-star over a hot, stuffy one in a Chernex in the hills above Montreux; petitive element, however, and the five-star any day). After the room we the Pertrisberg in Trier, and picture changes. In 1987, a first-class look at people and service, location Salzburg’s Hotel Jedermann. ticket on the Glacier Express was and setting, facilities, and, finally, A few favorite haunts are no $67. Today, even though the dollar is public rooms. longer in business or have slipped about 8% higher vs the Swiss franc The hotels that combine all these badly. Three in the latter category are than it was in ‘87, the same St. Mor- traits — and offer the best value — the beautifully-located Forsthaus tiz-Zermatt trip is $155. (By the way, have become our favorites. Places Grasek in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Rail Europe is announcing increases such as the Art Nouveau in Berlin; Munich’s Hotel Adria, and the in rail pass prices for 2002. Since Hotel Anker in Marktheidenfeld, Brienzer-Burli in Brienz, Switzer- most passes are good for travel up to Germany; the Sonnenhof in Bad land. six months after date of purchase, Sachsa, Germany; Zur Stadt Mainz Simply gone are Schloss Neuhof those planning to travel in the first in Würzburg; Gutshotel von Kessel- in Coburg, Germany, the wonderful half of 2002 would do well to take statt in Neumagen-Dhron on the Hotel Geiger in Berchtesgaden, and advantage of current prices by buy- Mosel, Schloss Haunsperg outside the fine restaurant of the Markgrä- ing their passes no later than Decem- Salzburg; the Altstadt in Vienna; the Continued on page 8… fler Hof in Freiburg, Germany. Two Innere Enge in Bern; and the Wald- splendid music venues we miss are Using Gemütlichkeit hotel Doldenhorn in Kandersteg, Vienna’s Cafe Budva (Gypsy music) • Foreign currency prices are converted to U.S. dollars Switzerland, are just a few of the and the Ewig Lampe (blues/jazz) in at the exchange rate in effect at the time of publication. places we’ve discovered over the Berlin. • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are years. Interestingly, every one of the often available for longer stays. above-mentioned hotels is family Because of their attitude toward • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise noted. owned and operated. Americans, there are just three hotels that are to be avoided under all cir- • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” Of course there are many out- required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- cumstances: Gebhards Hotel in Göt- standing hotels that have all these ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, tingen, Germany, the Benediktenhof do not dial the first “0”. qualities, but at much higher prices: (if it’s still in operaton) in Ettal, the Beau Rivage Palace in Lausanne, southern Bavaria, and Vienna’s Logging on to Gemütlichkeit’s Website the Victoria Jungfrau in Interlaken, Mailbergerhof. Except for the most recent 12, back issues in text format Berlin’s Ritz-Carlton Schloss Hotel, from January 1993 are available free to subscribers only at the Grüner Baum near Badgastein Thanks to the strength of the dol- http://www.gemut.com (click on “For Members Only”). Austria, the Benen Diken Hof on the lar, hotel prices today are surprsingly To access the issues enter the user name and password published in this space each month. The July codes are: German island of Sylt, the Imperial close to what they were in 1987. Ac- User Name: meck Password: 108 in Vienna, Lucerne’s The Hotel and cording to the March 1987 issue of

Vol. 15, No. 10 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY November, 2001 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor: Robert H. Bestor Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors: Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Johnson Adequate 4 - 7 Web Master: Paul T. Merschdorf Unacceptable 0 - 3 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Subscription Dept: Kurt Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Services: Eric Poole, Andy Bestor Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Average Value 9 - 11 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web site: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the publishers Special G Designation can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com WINE ROADS Graz before being rescued. She then Styrian points the way to a small stone Continued from page 1 Wine path that leads to the mausoleum Styria is better known for its on the hill. light, aromatic whites. The wine Roads At the top, is a little, domed region is officially confined to a AUTOBAHN building guarded by two gro- small delta of land on the west Preding tesquely foreshortened statues side of the Mur river. Most of the that look like Gog and Magog, approximately 2000 hectares are Sausaler gigantic trolls dressed in armor under cultivation. In the last Weinstrasse Leibnitz and wielding clubs. They con- decades, a number of vintners Hwy 74 trast sharply with the graceful have begun to produce world- Ehrenhausen Baroque and pale yellow of the class white wines, which are Gleinstätten Hwy 69 rest of the structure. It is a thrill only now getting the internation- Leutschach Südsteirische to be alone, opening such a big al attention they deserve. AUSTRIA Weinstrasse heavy door with such an enor- Complementing its numer- mous key, knowing that a dark ous fine wines are a handful of SLOVENIA Maribor turn of events could leave one scenic Weinstrassen, meandering locked inside for hours. It also rural roads that thread their way seems totally outrageous to be past stunning views along the given full responsibility for this crests and slopes of the vineyards. ment while standing on the castle 400 year-old structure by merely The oldest and most striking of these walls enjoying the view. On this hot providing a signature. is the Sudsteirische Weinstrasse, which day, a group of elderly Austrians on Just a few quick comments before begins in Ehrenhausen, about 10 a church tour wandered to a cluster moving on to the reviews. Almost all kilometers south of the town of Leib- of benches under a tall horsechestnut of the accommodations along the nitz and just west of A9 north-south tree. I watched them for a moment Wine road are in small pensions usu- Autobahn out of Graz. It winds its and then turned back to the view. ally attached to a vineyard or restau- way along the border to Leutschach, Suddenly, in gentle, wavering voices, rant or both (which explains the mul- threading past thick clusters of hills they began to sing an old hymn. It tiple reviews you will find below). and narrow, secluded valleys. felt like a cool, refreshing breeze. To give you an idea of the quality of A bit further north is the Sausaler The Mausoleum the wineries listed here, the last edi- Weinstrasse, which runs from Leib- The other not-to-be missed attrac- tion of Austrian food and wine critics nitz to the small village of Höfern. tions is Ehrenhausen’s mausoleum, Christoph Wagner and Klaus Engle Leave Leibnitz heading west on which shelters the tomb of Ruprecht rated the area’s best wines as fol- highway #74. At Glenstätten head of Eggenburg, who fought the Turks lows: Willi Sattlerhof 20/20; Alois north on a “yellow road“ toward at the end of the 16th century. While Gross 19/20; Hans Harkamp 19/20; Preding. This part of the drive is up the Baroque funerary monument is and Erich and Walter Polz 19/20. A the Kogelberg with grand views impressive enough in itself, the best winery near Polz, Manfred Tement, over the extended plain below. part of the experience is the process also scored 20/20. And finally, moril- These are just two of the official one must go through in order to visit lon is a local Styrian name for Char- routes; actually nearly all the small it. The mausoleum is located on the donnay. roads in the region contain some grounds of a private castle overlook- Lodging rewarding surprise or other. A two- ing town, but you must first go to the day visit will provide ample time for town’s church in the center of town Hotel Sattlerhof a leisurely tour of the wine roads, as to get the key. There you will find This small luxury-style hotel is well as plenty of opportunities to the wizened old lady who looks after run by two gifted brothers — sample the region’s food and wine. the church and it is at this point that one who makes excellent EDITOR’S the entire project begins to take on a CHOICE The Schloss wine; the other prepares the fairy tale aura. She asks if you wish sumptuous meals that do it justice. The area also has two sights to visit the mausoleum. If yes, she Together, they run a very pleasant worth visiting. The first is Schloss leads you to a large book in which th hotel. The Sattlerhof’s best feature is Seggau, a 13 century castle that you must sign your name. She then that it manages to be upscale without occupies a commanding position produces a foot-long iron skeleton being pretentious. The presence of over a low valley. One of its interior key with the admonition that it is the the two families and the congeniality walls is covered with worn marble mausoleum’s only key and, once of the brothers themselves are sure to plaques from Roman times. inside, you must prop the door open make most guests feel right at home. a stone. If it closes, you will be Your reporter experienced a The hotel is located in a cluster of locked inside for at least 4 or 5 hours memorable and serendipitous mo- yellow rural manor-style buildings Gemütlichkeit 3 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com

with enormous red tile roofs on the Rating: QUALITY 13/20 , VALUE 14/20 from the claustrophobia of sitting too quiet side of a small green hill out- long in a car. Weingut Kästenburg side Gamlitz just west of Ehrenhaus- The Kästenburg is just one of the Daily Rates: Singles 20-28 EUR ($18- en. The hotel doesn’t have the views $25); doubles in dormitory style many small family-run pensions of some of the other hotels men- rooms are 25 Euros ($22) per person tioned here, but it makes up for it strung along the old wine road. What sets it apart is its superb location on and 32 Euros ($28) in the modern with extra comforts and its excellent rooms. wine made on-premise. the highest point of the vine-covered hills overlooking Slovenia. The own- Contact: Schloss Seggau, Seggauberg The hotel’s 29 rooms are in the er, Frau Jakopé, is a vivacious person 1, A-8430 Leibnitz, tel +43/03452/ same buildings as the restaurant and who seems intent on making the 82435-29, fax +43/03452/82435-10, the winery nestled in the vineyard a most of what she has — which is- email: [email protected], web few steps away. The spacious double quite a lot. www.seggau.com. Open May-Oct. rooms have comfortable furniture, Rating: QUALITY 12/20 , VALUE 13/20 wooden floors and separate sitting Guestrooms are tucked away in Sustenance rooms. Marble baths have terracotta different parts of the property. Most tile floors and both bathtubs and are recently remodeled with antique Weingut Harkamp showers with separate toilets. All furniture, bright fabrics, tile baths and laminated wood floors. All are On a trip of memorable EDITOR’S come with either balconies and ter- CHOICE non-smoking and have either a bal- meals, this was a favorite. The races and the use of the hotel’s small friendly, family atmosphere was swimming pool. cony or terrace with views of the woods or the faraway hills. The instantly endearing, the food excel- Daily Rates: Doubles 45-63 EUR rooms on the upper floors have at- lent and inexpensive, and the setting ($40-$55) per person; suites 71 EUR tractively sloped ceilings and the stunning. ($63) per person. suite’s steam bath is encased in a On warm days, tables are set Contact: Hotel Sattlerhof, Sernau 2a, large wine barrel. away from the main building on a Gamlitz, A-8462, tel +43/03453/44 Daily Rates: Per person rates are 21- narrow path leading to a row of 54 0, fax 44 54 44, email 39 EUR ($19-$35) vines above a precipitous slope that plunges to a gentle valley. One is [email protected], web Contact: Jakopé and Barthau family, close enough to see activity in the www.sattlerhof.at. Open Mar.-Dec. Ratsch an der Weinstrasse 66, A-8461 valley but far away enough that it Rating: QUALITY14/20 , VALUE 15/20 Ehrenhausen, tel +43/03453/25 65, looks like a happy Bruegel painting. fax 20 260, email: Weingut Harkamp During lunch, for example, one can [email protected], web: Located just north of the Sausaler observe a toy-sized tractor plow a www.kaestenburg.at. Open May-Nov. wine road, this restaurant, pension small field, while tiny farmer fami- Rating: QUALITY 12/20 , VALUE 13/20 and vineyard are the friendliest and lies go about their daily chores. most down to earth of any reviewed Schloss Seggau The menu is written on a black- here. For those who prefer to stay in a board leaning against one of the vine The 20 rooms range from simple castle, the Seggau is an option. Locat- stocks. On a hot day in July, gusts of to surprisingly elaborate. What ed at the busy gateway to the Sausal- warm wind rose up from the valley doesn’t vary is the feeling of being in er Weinstrasse, this sprawling com- and repeatedly knocked the menu the spacious home of a friendly rela- plex houses a 100-room hotel, two over, which caused the waitress or a tive who has a talent for wine-mak- museums (one concerning the cas- helpful guest to trundle over and ing. The large rooms have rustic fur- tle’s history and another with old prop it up again. nishings, wood floors,tile baths with wine-making equipment), a large Feeling a bit rustic, I followed the showers and separate toilets, and courtyard, a wine shop, an enormous a delicious, creamy wine soup spiced each is decorated in its own individ- grassy field with an outdoor Olym- with cinnamon and orange peel (2.9 ual style. The best is Number 18 with pic-sized swimming pool, and a EUR/$2.56) with the excellent a sunny wintergarden overlooking large conference hall that can accom- Hausulz, boiled beef served cold in the valley. The more recently reno- modate over 700. aspic with thin onion slices, enor- vated rooms are on the top floor, Guestrooms are either cramped mous kidney beans and a drizzingly while the ground floor has one room dorm-style or chic, ultramodern with of pumpkin seed oil (4.7 EUR/$4.15). reserved for disabled guests. large balconies. We normally would Others that day chose tasty slices Daily Rates: 23-25 EUR ($20-$22) per not recommend such a large confer- of roast beef with pan-fried potatoes person. ence hotel, but this one’s unusual and neon-green creamed spinach (12 Contact: Hotel Harkamp, Flamberg collection of the historic items and its EUR/$11) or the enormous portions 46, St. Nikolai i. S., tel +43/03185/ grounds make it the exception. of greaselessly crispy-fried chicken 2280, email [email protected]. Schloss Seggau is a good option served with fresh salad (12.2 EUR/ Open April through October. for families needing space for chil- $11). The Harkamps also produce an dren to roam or for anyone suffering Gemütlichkeit 4 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com excellent white wine that has a de- slope of a narrow, secluded valley mushrooms gelled in aspic (5.8 servedly high reputation locally. with vineyards rising up sharply on EUR/$5.31). Remarkably, it’s all done without all sides. The main course was mildly the slightest bit of pomp or preten- I sat at a long table on the shady spicy Hungarian peppers stuffed sion. porch with the late summer sun glis- with meat and rice, served in a large Hotel Harkamp, Flamberg 46, St. tening on the vines. My cool glass of bowl with a sweet sauce of cream Nikolai i. S., tel +43/03185/2280, the Polz brothers’ celebrated Gras- and pureed tomatoes and accompa- email [email protected]. sitzberger Morillon (a Chardonnay nied by starchy boiled potatoes. Oth- Closed Tues. from the best part of the vineyard for er options included the traditional a mere 2.5 EUR/$2.25). Accompany- Austrian boiled beef dish, Tafelspitz, Rating: QUALITY15/20 , VALUE 16/20 ing was a large slab of fresh-baked served with spinach, boiled potatoes Restaurant Sattlerhof brown bread piled high with shav- and apples sauce spiked with shaved The region’s best option for for- ings of tender smoked ham (1.8 horseradish (12.7 EUR/$11), or fried mal, multi-course meals that take up EUR/$1.60). portabella mushrooms with tartar an entire evening. It is popular and Hungrier guests might try the sauce (12 EUR/$10.50), or perhaps a reservations are necessary. mixed platter of meats and cheese, venison ragout with sliced bread The maiin dining room is deco- which makes an excellent light lunch dumplings and a dollop of cranberry rated in a modern rustic style with at 5 EUR ($4.42). A group of cele- sauce (12 EUR/$10.50). tall chairs of wood and woven wick- brants were enjoying a similar meal The wine list concentrated on er. Café tables are covered in creamy around a large oil press that had local offering, so I settled on a glass white linen. The enclosed balcony is been converted into a table. The en- of morillon from the respected Gross the best place to sit; on pleasant days tire scene was so pleasant that even winery nearby. the windows can be opened to take at the time I couldn’t wait to go back. Though not stellar, the service in the breeze. Weingut Erich and Walter Polz, had a formal congeniality. Guests dine a la carte or from Grassnitzberg 54a, Spielfeld, A-8471, Winzerhaus Kogelberg, Kogelberg either a multicourse Stryian menu or tel +43/03453/27 30, fax +43/03453/ 10-11, Kaindorf an der Sulm, A-8430, a special menu of varying themes 27 30-9, email: tel +43/03452/83451., open Wed.- (during my visit it was an array of [email protected], web: Sat. noon-11pm, Sun. noon-6pm Italian dishes). They range in price www.polz.at, open year-round Mon- Rating: QUALITY 12/20 , VALUE 16/20 from about 28 to 31 EUR ($25-$27) day-Saturday 11pm-10pm. for seven-course meal. Rating: QUALITY 13/20 , VALUE 16/20 ESSENTIAL SWITZERLAND There is a less-formal bistro with Continued from page 1 Winzerhaus Kogelberg an open kitchen for culinary enter- oramic trail“ which circles the sum- The Kogelberg would probably tainment and a terrace for enjoying mit. the sun. Main courses here start rate much higher if the other places Places to Stay: • Hotel Regina around 7.2 EUR ($6.50). A light lunch reviewed here hadn’t been so very Wengen, CH-3823, tel. +41/033/856 of creamy pumpkin soup sprinkled good. 58 58, fax 856 58 50, email: with toasted pumpkin seeds (3.25 It took a bit of finding, as the [email protected]. Doubles from EUR/$2.90), followed by a pleasing- address is a bit misleading. The easi- $200 • Hotel Jungfrau, CH-3825 Mür- ly al dente risotto (8.66 EUR/$7.66) et way to get there from Lebnitz or ren, tel. +41/033/855 4545, fax 855 with meaty Portabella mushrooms, Schloss Seggau is just follow the 4549, email: [email protected], all dusted with grated Parmesan signs for either the Kogelberg (a web: www.muerren.ch. Doubles from cheese, was inexpensive and deli- common name for a little round $102 cious. mountain) or the Sausaler Weinstrasse Food Suggestion: Either hotel Restaurant open Tuesday-Satur- and then look for the intermittent day 6pm-midnight (kitchen open signs leading to the restaurant. #2. Lac Léman (East) until 9pm); bistro open Wed.-Mon. The Winzerhaus clings to the Residents of this Frenck-speaking 11:30am-10 pm (kitchen until 6 pm). quiet side of Kogelberg overlooking part of Switzerland, who have in- See page 4 for contact info. the plain that extend to the hills that cluded at one time or another, Rating: QUALITY 14/20 , VALUE 15/20 crowd the border. On a hot after- Vladimir Nabokov, Igor Stravinsky, Weingut Erich & Walter Polz noon under a cool vine arbor, I start- Ernest Hemingway, Noel Coward, ed with a smooth, chilled gooseliver- Henry James ,Victor Hugo, Graham Most of wineries in the region and-partridge terrine with blood- Greene, Peter Ustinov and Charlie also run small Buschenschank, elabo- orange marmalade (11.5 EUR/$10). Chaplain, would seem to have the rate stands serving their own wine Other choices include consume with best of all possible worlds; breathtak- and smoked meats. Polz stands out sliced crepes (2.7 EUR/$2.40) and ing scenery, a mild climate (often because of its excellent wines and its slices of venison and Portabella referred to as the “Vaud Riviera”), unforgettable location on the steep Gemütlichkeit 5 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com cosmopolitan cities, proximity to the web: www.romantikhotels.com/ Sasso • the Lake Vaudois Alps, and a cuisine and zuerich. Doubles $198 to $222 Suggested Activities: Take a wine culture that blends the best of • Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstr. morning train from Locarno to Do- Switzerland and France. 26, CH-8001 Zürich, +41/01/252 00 modossola in Italy and return in the Best Towns: Lausanne, Mon- 32, fax 252 09 23. Doubles about $120 late afternoon. Very scenic. treux, Vevey Food Suggestion: The atmo- Places to Stay: • Hotel Orselina, Top Sights: • Olympic Museum spherZeughauskeller near Parade- CH-6644 Orselina, tel. +41/091/735 in Lausanne • Chillon Castle, • touristy but has great food at afford- 44 44, fax 735 44 66, email: Rochers de Naye • Vineyards along able prices. [email protected], web: the lake. www.orselina.com. Doubles with #4. Zermatt Suggested Activities: Drive or breakfast and dinner from $245 bicycle along the Route du Vignoble Yes, it’s full of tourists, but you • Villa Pauliska, Via Orselina 6, CH- (wine road) or visit cities along the must see the Matterhorn, one of cre- 6600 Locarno-Muralto, tel. +41 091 lake – including some in France – via ator’s more distinctive mountain 743 05 41, fax 743 9517. Doubles from lake steamer. peaks. No cars but beware the quiet, about $75 (no breakfast served) battery-powered hotel jitneys that Places to Stay: • Hostellerie du Food Suggestion: Go to the near- whiz through the streets Débarcardère, 7 chemin du Cret, St. by village of Intragna for a meal at Sulpice, Switzerland CH-1025, tel. Top Sights: • The Matterhorn • Stazione "da Agnese" +41/021/691 57 47, fax 691 50 79, The Alpine Museum with mementos #6 Pontresina email: [email protected]. of early, sometimes tragically failed, Doubles from about $200 attempts to climb the mountain. St. Mortiz is world famous but • L’Auberge De Chernex, CH-1822 , Suggested Activities: Ride the Pontresina, four miles to the west, is Chernex (above Montreux), tel. 021/ rack railway to the Gornergrat (10, an authentic Engadine village in a 9644191, fax 964 68 57. Doubles from 272 feet) for the best views the Mat- beautiful setting with painted houses about $90 terhorn and other peaks. and meandering streets. We much prefer it. Food Suggestion: Both recom- Places to Stay: • Hotel Alex, CH- mended hotels have fine restaurants. 3920 Zermatt, tel. +41/027/966 7070, The town is a center for walking, fax 966 7090, email: hiking, and mountaineering with #3. Zürich [email protected] , many miles of marked trails. A nifty town on one of the coun- web: www.hotelalexzermatt.com. Top Sights: • Muótas Muragl, a try’s largest lakes and divided by the Doubles from $185 • Hotel Dufour, high ground (8,000 feet) above the river Limmat, Zürich has an amaz- CH-3920 Zermatt, tel. +41/027/966 valley with many walking paths and ing, second-to-none public transpor- 24 00, fax 966 24 01, email: fine views tation system and is perhaps the [email protected], web: Suggested Activities: • Take a cleanest big city you’ll ever see. On www.reconline.ch/dufour/. Doubles walk through the Tais forest • Go the Limmat’s right bank, the com- from about $73. shopping in St. Moritz mercial and banking center gathers Food Suggestion: Try the loin of Places to Stay: Hotel Saratz, along the posh Bahnhofstrasse lamb at Le Gitan in the Hotel Darioli. Hotel Saratz, CH-7504 Pontresina, where the stores are not flashy but tel. +41/081/839 40 00, fax 839 40 40 verrrrry expensive (perhaps a $1500 #5 Locarno mail: [email protected], web: clutch purse from Louis Vuitton?). Another Swiss city on a gorgeous www.saratz.ch. Doubles from $160 Across the river on the left bank, the lake, Italian-speaking Lorcano has Food Suggestion: Hotel Saratz old-town’s narrow lanes have just more charm than Lugano and more the right mixture of odd shops, hole- life than Ascona, two other popular #7. Sion in-the-wall restaurants, avant garde Ticinese destinations. Here, the vistas Tourist brochures tout Sion as galleries, seedy bars, and lively beer are breathtaking, the food and wine “capital of Swiss California” calling halls. simple and comforting, and the sub- it a “warm, sunny land of vineyards, Top Sights: • Fraumünster with tropical vegetation luxuriant with orchards, strawberry and raspberry Chagall stained glass windows • palm trees and bright flowers (Locar- fields.” Like several other Swiss des- Swiss National Museum, no is famous for its hundreds of vari- tinations, local boosters claim Sion Suggested Activities: Window eties of camellias). There are cobble- has the country’s best climate with shop both sides of the Bahnhof- stoned, arcaded piazzas, narrow al- the least rainfall and the most days strasse, then explore the more down- leys, ancient stone churches, grand of sunshine. Whether true or not, to-earth old town. old Italian-style villas, and, of course, Sion is a place to be visited in any hundreds of umbrella tables at doz- Places to Stay: • Hotel Florhof, weather. ens of outdoor cafes from which to CH-8001 Zürich, Florhofgasse, 4 In winter, it is the center of the savor it all. tel. +41/01/261 4470, fax 261 4611, val d’ Herens ski region including email: [email protected], Top Sights: The Madonna del such little-known (in this country) Gemütlichkeit 6 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com villages as Arolla, Evolène, Nax, La Gotthard Basel, Centralbahnstrasse country’s strongest cheeses as well as Sage, Thyon, Les Collons and others. 13, CH-4002 Basel, tel. +41/061/225 Appenzell Alpenbitter, an inky, lo- Most are within a few minutes drive 13 13, fax 225 13 14, email: cally-produced aperitif which is of Sion. [email protected], web: served over ice. On the slopes of the Rhône are www.st-gotthard.ch. Doubles from Top Sights: Appenzeller Volk- thousands of acres of steeply-ter- $125 skunde Museum; cable car to Mt. raced vineyards. The rocky soil and Food Suggestion: Restaurant Der Säntis, highest peak in the Alpstein sunshiny climate encourage several Teufelhof, gets one Michlin star. For range grape varieties and the wine trade a less expensive meal from the same Suggested Activities: • Visit the flourishes. great kitchen, eat in its brasserie-style Appenzeller Volkskunde Museum in Top Sights: • Église Notre-Dame- Weinstube. Stein to watch a farmer make Appen- de-Valère, a church with the world’s zeller cheese by hand over an open #9. Neuchâtel oldest playable organ • The ruins of fire. After that go next door to the the castle Tourbillon Like so many Swiss cities, Neu- Appenzell Schaukäserei (Showcase châtel owes its natural beauty to a Suggested Activities: Excursions Cheese-Dairy) and see the same basic combination of mountains, vineyards to the mountain villages listed above process done the modern way • Visit and a large lake whose shore is lined St. Gallen (12 miles) and take in the Places to Stay: Hotel des Vignes, with flowering quays, parks, prome- fascinating Textile Museum and the Uvrier/Saint-Léonard, CH-1958, Rue nades, marinas and fine hotels. A breathtaking Abbey Library. du Pont 9, tel. +41/027/203 1671, fax 12th-century castle and collegiate Places to Stay: Romantik-Hotel 205 3727. Doubles from about $105. church are the most impressive of the Säntis, Landsgemeindeplatz 3, CH- Food Suggestion: Order Zarzuela, town’s well-preserved stone build- 9050 Appenzell, tel. +41/071/ a seafood stew at Au Cheval Blanc in ings. Why such an attractive city is 7878722, fax 7874842, the town center. virtually ignored by American tour- email:Romantik-Hotel Säntis ists is a mystery. #8. Basel Food Suggestion: Try the Kalbsle- Top Sights: • Jaquet-Droz Au- This is a wonderful, interesting, ber und Rösti (calves liver and fried tomatons in the Museum of Art and compact city (pop. 170,000) that is potatoes) at the Säntis. History • International Museum of overlooked by most American tour- Horology in nearby La Chaux-de- ists. Fonds. Readers’ Forum Though only a quarter its size, Suggested Activities: Visit one of Basel has more and better museums Zermatt, Vienna Comments the regions many Metaires, rustic than the city of San Francisco, a bet- First, thanks for the article on the country houses that serve simple on ter zoo (nearly 6,000 animals from Sud Tirol/Alto Adige. I think old wooden tables five continents) and twice as many Gemütlichkeit should regularly cover symphony orchestras. Most San Places to Stay: Hotel Alpes et the northern Italian area that has Franciscans are afraid to ride their Lac, Place de la Gare 2, CH-2000 strong Germanic influence, including city’s spooky, graffiti-ridden, catch- Neuchâtel, tel. +49/032/723 19 19, Cortina d’Ampezzo and virtually all as-catch-can bus system. In Basel, fax 723 19 20, email: [email protected]. of the Dolomites. It is a beautiful 40% of the population regularly buys Doubles from $90 region not well known to American season passes on the Trämli, which Food Suggestion: La Maison des tourists but with all the amenities runs at six to 10-minute intervals Halles, informal bistro but great food. and outdoor activities of the rest of during the day and every 15 minutes the Alps, including good food, beer, at night. Basel has three railway sta- #10. Appenzell wine and accomodations. tions; San Francisco none. In 1460, A quiet village of intricately My particular interest is the area when the most important structure painted houses and a tradition- of heavy fighting high in the moun- on what was to become San Fran- bound citizenry who observe ancient tains between the A-H Empire and cisco’s Nob Hill was a teepee, Basel traditions and dress much as they Germany and Italy, Great Britain and already had a university. did 100 years ago, Appenzell drips France (U.S. involvement was mini- Top Sights: • Kunstmuseum with country charm. Men wear black mal) in WWI. There are a number of • Basel Zoo hats decorated with flowers, bright good museums, restored trenches red vests, gold pants, white knee Suggested Activities: An excur- and galleries, cemeteries, monu- socks and earrings, while “Sunday ments, etc., which are of interest to sion to Augusta Raurica, the remains best” for women is an ankle-length of the oldest known Roman settle- tourists, especially descendants of all pleated skirt, tied bodice, huge em- the nationalities that fought in the ment on the Rhine. It is approximate- broidered lace collar and a black- ly 11 kilometers (7 miles) east of region. Dolomitenfreunde and other winged bonnet trailing a wide red organizations work together to main- Basel and accessible by car, rail, bus, ribbon. boat and bicycle. tain and restore areas of significance. The region is home to some of the Places to Stay: Hotel St. Some other comments: Gemütlichkeit 7 December 2001/January 2002 http://www.gemut.com In Zell am See we spent two tached to Le Mazot also operated by has introduced 160 mile-an-hour ICE nights at Hotel Heitzmann (Weiss- Roger Muther. We were booked to trains. In 1987, few hotel rooms had gerbergasse 1, tel. 42 72152, email: stay there but due to construction cable TV. Now they have CNN via [email protected], web: http:// were given a small studio apartment satellite. The cellualr phone now gold.at/heitzmann), a 4-star small in a nearby new building and did not seems more prevalent in Europe than hotel near the center of the Altstadt get to stay in the older units above here at home. Most European rental and pedestrian area. We had a nice the restaurant. However, assuming cars are now air-conditioned. Only a little suite with a sitting area, bed- that they are renovated and are man- few luxury models had air 15 years room with queen bed, a large bath aged as well as the restaurant, they ago. In 1987, we were almost always and a bit of a view across the lake to may also be a good location for a stay able to book hotel rooms in advance the mountains to the north, all for in Zermatt. without providing a credit card num- ber, and most hotels didn’t even ask 1400 AS ($90), with breakfast. Our last night in Vienna was at a In Zermatt we had a very good decent but somewhat dated hotel for a credit card at check-in. Today, some require a non-refundable de- dinner at a small restaurant, Le Ma- right across from the Westbahnhof, posit when reserving in advance and zot (tel. 027 967 2727; email: the Hotel Fürstenhof (Neubaugurtel most want to take an imprint of your [email protected]) located in the 14, tel. 43 1 523 3267; email: credit card at check-in. Hinterdorf area right at the bridge [email protected], over the river. The chef/owner, Rog- web: www.hotel-fuerstenhof.at). We We have more territory to cover. er Muther, specializes in grilled lamb had a large, rather old-fashioned In 1991, the Germanys — East and and the menu is more French than corner room with high ceilings and West — unified, opening travel to Germanic. Dinner for two was about long drapes and a view across to the cities like Dresden, Leipzig, Weimar, $82.00 (137.5 Sfr.) including salad, Westbahhof for 1251 AS ($81) with Rostock and the former East Berlin. entrees of grilled lamb chops and a breakfast. We selected it because of Excursions into the Czech Republic chicken stroganoff, dessert and cof- its proximity to the rail station and and Hungary became routine. fee (one with a liqueur, very tasty) its proximity to the bus stop for di- And now, starting January 1, we and a liter of fendant. Our waitress, rect and inexpensive bus connections will see another major change. The Antoinette, was very pleasant and to the airport. Not a great hotel, but euro, a new currency will replace the we looked forward to returning there adequate and very convenient. deutschmark and the schilling (not Switzerland’s franc) plus the curren- on Tuesday night the 11th but after MARTIN VITZ cies of 10 other European countries. seeing the terrible news on CNN VIA EMAIL found it hard to work up any interest (If you have marks or schillings left in fine dining. If you put this in Bargain Hotel in Meiningen over from your last trip, you can use Gemütlichkeit perhaps some reader We stayed at the Hotel an der them for payment until February 28, will go there in our stead. Kapelle in Meiningen (Anton-Ulrich- 2002. March 31, 2002, is the last day Strasse 19, D-98617 Meiningen, tel. you will be able to exhange them — There is a small hotel garni at- +49/03693/44920, fax 470174, email: notes only, not coins — without Key Websites for the Traveler to [email protected]), about 80 charge for Euros at Central Banks in the 12 countries. Until December 31, Germany, Austria & Switzerland kilometers southwest of Erfurt, and I just loved it and the owners — they 2002, commercial banks will also • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travel- exchange old notes and coins for ers to Germanic Europe, including car were so kind and considerate. Food rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, traveler was great and the price more than euros but there will be a charge. feedback, travel tips and past issues (free reasonable. From 2003 onward, it will still be access to back issues for subscribers; see possible to exchange old currencies EDYTHE HOOVER log-on info on page 2). at the Central Banks.) VIA EMAIL • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin Changes notwithstanding, the database of hotels and restaurants plus [Editor’s Note: Double rooms at an great interactive trip planning tools. der Kapelle are 58 to 62 EUR ($51-$55) mountains, the lakes, the meadows, • www.mapblast.com Map and automobile Ms. Hoover not only brought this hotel the forests, all look virtually the same trip planning. Locates routes and distances. to our attention, but the association it as they did 15 or 150 years ago. And • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German belongs to: VCH-Hotels Deutschland late at night, when we’re sipping a rail. Train schedules throughout Europe, not (web: www.vch.de). ] glass of local wine under a shaded just Germany. lamp in a rustic little hotel deep in • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and DEAR SUBSCRIBER European rail schedules. the countryside, it’s as good as it Continued from page 2 • www.ski-europe.com Top web resource ever was and as good as it ever gets. for skiers with much data on Alpine resorts. ber 31, 2001.) See you in February. — RHB • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Though prices may have shown Switzerland’s national tourist authority. Germanic Travel Alert stability, the travel experience itself • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s has changed. We have new airports Free email supplement to national tourist authority. Gemütlichkeit. Register online at in Munich and Frankfurt and big • www.anto.com Austria’s national tourist www.gemut.com or send your email authority. improvements in Zürich. Germany address to [email protected] Gemütlichkeit 8 December 2001/January 2002