Dec 2019/Jan 2020

DELI BUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT DEC/JAN 2020 $14.95 GOING GREEN AT THE DELI

Also Inside Fermented Food Entrees FRIED CHICKEN GREEK FETA FRENCH GOAT CHEESE DELI MEAT TRENDS Pomi.indd 1 12/13/19 10:44 AM DEC/JAN ‘20 • VOL.24/NO.6 Contents MERCHANDISING REVIEW The 411 on Fermented Foods...... 22 The popularity of fermented foods continues, as its health benefits and flavors drive the category

PREPARED FOOD Making a Meal Destination ��25 Deli entrées have evolved and become higher end to better compete with restaurant offerings

FEATURE An Enduring Segment ��30 With fried chicken, it’s all about the flavor

COVERFrom utensils to meat, a change STORY is in the air 14

COMMENTARIES EDITOR’S NOTES Preparing For The New Age Of Deli �� 10 22 PUBLISHER’S INSIGHTS Bringing in the New Year �� 12

25 30

DELI BUSINESS (ISSN 1088-7059) is published by Phoenix Media Network, Inc., P.O. Box 810425, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0425 POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Deli Business, P.O. Box 810217, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 3 DEC/JAN ‘20 • VOL.24/NO.6 Contents CHEESE CORNER Greek Feta: A Cheese as Old as Humanity ��36 Discover how this age-old favorite came about and the qualities that make it so unique

The Fine & Unparalleled Goat Cheese of France �� 40 Find out why this revered cheese is becoming even more cherished

DELI MEATS PROFIT FROM IN 2020 Four Deli Meat Trends �� 46 Looking ahead at a dynamic new year

IN EVERY ISSUE

Deli Watch �� 8

Information Showcase �� 54

Blast From The Past �� 54 46

4 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Sally Sherman.indd 1 12/13/19 10:48 AM DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement

DELI BUSMARKETING MERCHANDISINGINESS MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT DELI BUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT Rogue Creamery’s Rogue DELI BUSMARKETING MERCHANDISINGINESS MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT PRESIDENT & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DeliBUSINESSmarketing merchandising management procurement james e. prevor [email protected] DeliBUSINESSmarketing merchandising management procurement River Blue Receives Top Honor

DeliBUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT PUBLISHING DIRECTOR kenneth l. whitacre DeliBUSINESSMARKETING MERCHANDISING MANAGEMENT PROCUREMENT [email protected]

DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement PUBLISHER/EDITORIAL DIRECTOR DELI BUSINESSMarketing Merchandising Management Procurement lee smith [email protected]

ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER mark gold [email protected]

EXECUTIVE EDITOR ellen koteff [email protected]

MANAGING EDITOR lisa white [email protected]

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR diana levine [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR jackie tucker [email protected]

PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT freddy pulido RESEARCH DIRECTOR Rogue Creamery’s Rogue River Blue Cheese recently achieved a monumental first sharon olson for the American specialty and farmstead cheese industry: it won the coveted title of CONTRIBUTING EDITORS World Champion Cheese at the 2019 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy. carol bareuther hannah howard bob johnson Rogue River Blue Cheese is an organic, cave-aged blue wrapped in Syrah grape leaves that are soaked in pear spirits. It is made with milk from Rogue Creamery’s Cer- send insertion orders, payments, press releases, photos, letters to the editor, etc., to: tified Organic Dairy Farm in Grants Pass, OR. A seasonal product, Rogue River Blue is deli business only made for a few months each year beginning on the autumnal equinox. p.o. box 810217, boca raton, fl 33481-0217 phone: 561-994-1118 fax: 561-994-1610 This cheese was first envisioned by David Gremmels, the company’s president, email: [email protected] when he purchased the creamery in 2001. He launched the new recipe in 2002 using PHOENIX MEDIA NETWORK, INC. Rogue Creamery’s classic Oregon Blue Cheese recipe as its inspiration. chairman of the board Rogue River Blue took Reserve Champion and the title of “Best Blue Cheese in the james e. prevor World” at the 2003 World Cheese Awards. It is now the first American-made cheese executive vice president receiving the Grand Champion recognition. kenneth l. whitacre

senior vice president lee smith

vice president editorial COMING NEXT IN FEB/MAR ISSUE ellen koteff

general counsel COVER STORY PROCUREMENT CHEESE CORNER debra prevor Prepared Foods STRATEGIES Chimay Packaging Roquefort trade show coordinator jackie lomonte FEATURE Consumer Research DELI MEAT deli business is published by phoenix media network, inc. Rotisserie Chicken p.o. box 810425, MERCHANDISING boca raton, fl 33481-0425 phone: 561-994-1118 fax: 561-994-1610 REVIEWS PREPARED FOODS www.delibusiness.com Side Dishes Pizza entire contents © copyright 2019 Olives

SUBSCRIPTION & READER SERVICE INFO If you would like to subscribe to Deli Business for the print and/or electronic version, please go to www.delibusiness.com and click on the “Subscribe” button. From there, you can subscribe to the print version of Deli Business or free of charge to the electronic version. In addition, you can read the electronic version and go directly to a company’s Web site through our special hot link feature. Best of all, you can download and print any article or advertisement you’d like.

6 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Gourmet Foods.indd 1 12/13/19 10:33 AM DELI WATCH

TRANSITIONS ANNOUNCEMENTS

LIPARI FOODS POSTS FIREFLY FARMS VOLPI NAMED FINALIST SAVENCIA SCHOLARSHIP PRESIDENT NAMES NATIONAL IN 2020 GOOD HONORS DOROTHY SALES DIRECTOR FOOD AWARDS DEMETER Lipari Foods, Warren, MI, has announced that Tim Walls has FireFly Farms, Accident, MD, has Volpi Foods, St. Louis, is a Savencia Cheese USA, New been named president and COO. named Cristi Menard as national 2020 finalist in the prestigious Holland, PA, has established He will oversee all company oper- director of sales and marketing. Good Food Awards. Finalists the Dorothy Demeter Savencia ations, reporting directly to Thom Menard joins the company’s lead- demonstrate a commitment to Cheeses USA Undergraduate Lipari, CEO. ership team and will dedicate her environmental stewardship and Scholarship, honoring the first www.liparifoods.com efforts to growing FireFly Farms’ growing their businesses in har- woman to receive a dairy sci- market reach and its brand, mony with a better food system. ence degree from Iowa State growing in tandem the com- These companies emphasize fair- University. Demeter, grew up pany’s beneficial impact on the ness and transparency from seed around cheesemaking as the rural communities that surround to plate, promoting safe and enjoy- granddaughter of Frederick Kolb, its manufacturing operations in able working environments, and founder of Kolb-Lena Cheese Maryland’s westernmost Garrett safeguarding biodiversity by cre- Co. She grew her company of County. ating products free of genetically award-winning artisanal cheese www.fireflyfarms.com modified ingredients. and sold it to Savencia. She passed www.volpifoods.com away in May 2019. www.savenciacheeseusa.com

ANNOUNCEMENTS NEW PRODUCTS

FOREVER CHEESE ANCHOR PACKAGING SINGLE-SERVE PRODUCT FOR WINS 30 WORLD LINE WINS BEST CREAM CHEESE FOR SELF SERVICE CHEESE AWARDS NEW PRODUCT FOODSERVICE Landana, Holland, has launched Forever Cheese Partners, Long Belle Chevré, Elkmont, AL, has Anchor Packaging, St. Louis, a new range of packaged cheese Island City, NY, has announced added a convenient, 1.5-oz. sin- has announced its Crisp Food slices for consumer self-service. that 21 cheesemakers with whom gle-serve package to its roster of Technologies Containers have Seven new cheese packages of it partners with have been named Chevré cream cheese products won the CSP 2019 Retailer’s sliced cow’s and goat’s cheeses among the winners at the 32nd for foodservice operators. Two of Choice Best New Product includes favorites such as Gouda, annual World Cheese Awards in the brand’s favorite cream cheese Award. The winner of this Edam, Maasdam and Smoked Bergamo, Italy. They stood out flavors at retail, Original and Fig, award was determined by Cheese as well as various from the crowd as a record-break- are available in this smaller for- convenience store retailers’ vote. specialty cheeses including ing 3,804 entries were judged in mat. Belle Chevré’s handy 1.5-oz. The trophy was awarded at the Light, Olives & Tomatoes a single day at Fiera di Bergamo. portion cup will maximize con- 2019 National Association of and Goat Cheese MILD. The The pioneering importer of spe- venience and eliminate waste. Convenience Stores (NACS) striking new packaging design cialty cheese had over 30 cheeses Expo in Atlanta. www.bellechevre.com combines Landana’s brand values from its catalog win coveted and authentic Dutch quality. www.anchorpackaging.com awards at the event. www.landanacheese.com www.forevercheese.com

8 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Volpi.indd 1 12/13/19 10:48 AM FROM THE EDITOR’S DESK Preparing For The New Age Of Deli

s we enter 2020, we face a bifurcat- the high expensive of delivering to actual homes. ing consumer experience regarding Technology, however, is catching up. Drone deliv- deli products at retail. On the one ery, robotic delivery vehicles and mobile apps that hand, we have the operators such as allow you to give delivery personnel access to drop Wegmans or Whole Foods who see packages off in your garage or behind your front deli and the broader fresh foods and retail/foodser- door all promise to make delivery more convenient Avice space as differentiators. This is the area that, and cost effective. more than anything else, creates a reason to visit So product development efforts will need to the store and that, more than any other area, can bifurcate, as well. One level in high demand will provide the profits that make the store viable. As be for the freshest, most differentiating product. more purchasing moves online, one can imagine Things difficult to even put in a package are best. By the grocery sections of stores shrinking, replaced People will look for products that have less salt and Jim Prevor by pick-up lockers or delivery-sorting space—while preservatives. They will want their visit to the pre- Editor-in-Chief the fresh foods and foodservice elements, often pared foods section of the store to offer something with more generous seating and more specific con- that can’t be delivered in a package. cepts, such as wine and cheese bars, represent the The vast majority of the market will be pack- New Age retail experience. It is the vision of a high aged foods that require no service at retail and can service future. easily be slotted into mechanized delivery systems. On the other hand, there is rapid growth and There will be a range of prices, of course. But, at much innovation on the theme of minimal labor each level of quality, the competition will be in- and small square-foot concepts. For years now, tense and the demand for low margins, at every concepts such as Trader Joe’s and Aldi have been step in the supply chain, excruciating. A lot of the growing along these lines. Now Lidl, after a big ac- product, probably most of it, will be private label. quisition in the New York metro area, is proceed- Big challenges ahead for the industry will in- ing along similar lines, though with some efforts in clude where the Research & Development bud- service in the bakery. AmazonGo is, of course, de- gets will come from to keep the industry growing signed to minimize labor, although political pressure with new and innovative products. Marketing will has made them add staff to accept cash in some be an even bigger problem, as tight margins will not stores. allow for promotional efforts needed to introduce In all these cases at retail, there seems to be new products and to build and retain demand. overwhelming economic pressure to reduce labor. Supermarkets will have to think much harder Some of this is availability—it is hard to find peo- about how the triumph of private label shifts re- ple in many areas who want to work in grocery sponsibility for R&D and marketing to retailers. stores—but much of it is cost. Legal demands Few retailers are prepared to step up and accept for higher minimum wages reverberate through this responsibility. the system and, even without legal requirements, The grocerant concept—crossing the tradi- many stores find they must raise wages to attract tional retail store with the restaurant—holds out and retain staff. So automation is crucial, and that a glimmer of hope. Can the industry leverage this typically means less in-store service counters and foodservice approach, not just to sell food that day, more pre-packaged items. but to create a kind of massive product sampling The online movement adds, of course, to the effort where consumers try innovative things and percentage of deli products being sold in pre-pack- then look for them in packaged variants? And can aged form. Although a lot of delivery is done right we, as an industry, both create packaged variants now through services such as Schlept and Insta- of satisfactory quality and keep innovating in our cart—where, almost always, the shopping is done store-offered fresh products to keep a differentia- in-store—it is obvious that as the online business tion from the packaged foods? It is a tall order. It is, scales up, efforts will be made to use cheaper also, the unavoidable future. Forewarned is fore- non-retail real estate and automate shopping in armed. DB central depots. Though old models, such as Web- van, didn’t work, they were probably just ahead of their time. So it is likely that these centralized pack- ing and distribution points will depend on packaged fresh foods. Delivery services and web ordering in general have been held back by the “last mile” problem—

10 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Kens.indd 1 12/13/19 10:35 AM PUBLISHER’S INSIGHT Bringing in the New Year

his year has been an active one for new plant-based packaged, such as cutlery, bowls and product development, consumer driven catering products that will biodegrade, just not as marketing changes and an increasing fast. It is not just clear packaging. Take-out contain- concern for global warming and con- ers made from hemp or bamboo are alternatives. servation demands. Based on the many They are good looking and made from prolific plant interviews myself and our team have conducted, products that are renewable. Even straws are tak- Tthe following are my best guesses for opportuni- ing on a new look. Made from paper or bamboo, ties in 2020. they are much more durable. Next year may well be the year of prepared Most of the alternatives that are not plastic still food. The trend toward more space being devoted cost more money. Depending on where stores are to prepared foods is far from new. Progressive located, the demographics and pending legislation By chains and independents have responded, and the should play into the decision, but it should not be Lee Smith growth will continue. However, it is now a man- construed as a temporary trend. Single-use plastics Publisher datory component of a successful deli department. are going out the door. Prepared foods represent more than 50 per- Plant-based meat is also a new trend. Cutting cent of deli sales, and traditional deli meat and cold back on meat, especially red meat, is not. However, cuts are declining. Rather than just incorporating I caution about getting too invested in plant-based fried and rotisserie chicken within the deli, food- meat substitutes, even if they taste fine or as good service mini departments are being introduced. as meat, which I really doubt. This is a highly pro- Sub departments for products, such as sushi, cessed product that is generally high in sodium. It Asian food bars, pizza and sandwich stations, are may be a good alternative for a strict vegetarian or becoming more popular. Casual sit-down dining is vegan, but as an everyday option, it isn’t cutting a natural extension. the mustard for healthy living. The bottom line is customers are looking for Fake meat might not be the biggest trend but meal options and, if done well, the supermarket increasing the consumption of fruit and vegetables deli can effectively compete with fast food and is. While most people will not define themselves as casual dining options. Supermarkets can become vegetarian, a higher percentage of people are look- the better option for fast casual, since an expanded ing to eat healthier, including adding more fruits, deli can offer multiple options that satisfy every vegetables and whole grains to their diets. Deli member of family with very affordable prices. departments need to be aware and react by offer- Of course, the keys to success include impec- ing more products that match consumers’ ideas of cable sanitation and execution, but flavor still healthy eating. rules. Offerings must taste as good or better when Talking about healthy eating, there is a trend compared to local restaurants. Price will always be worth exploring—fermented foods. This is a hot, important but striving to be the low-cost provider on-trend group of products that includes pickles, is a recipe for disaster. kimchi, olives and kombucha. Between the health Supermarkets can make their prepared food benefits of fermented foods, its long shelf life and departments the first choice for quick meals very low calories, it is a category that has become rather than the last option for time-starved hun- more important and will continue to do so. gry families. Due to consumers’ desire to eat more naturally The next item on the list is the war against and partake in healthier foods, the industry may see single-use plastics. Some areas are already in the a resurgence in olive bars that include more variety. process of banning single-use plastics but cutting It is certainly an opportunity for progressive retail- back or eliminating plastics is becoming a consumers and retailers that already have a foodservice er-driven trend, as they become more aware of the offering. What is needed is more signage and bet- amount and extent of plastic pollution. ter promotions. Maybe it’s time to have an adjunct Fortunately, there are options. Plant-based pickle bar next to the olive bar. DB clear packaging that is almost indistinguishable from plastic is available. Generally, they are for cold or warm foods, since they cannot be micro- waved. In a very short time period, as short as two to three months, these products biodegrade. There are other alternatives made from denser

12 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Campofrio.indd 1 12/13/19 10:17 AM COVER STORY

GOING GREEN at the Deli From utensils to meat, a change is in the air

BY BOB JOHNSON

he deli is turning green. tiple customer demographics, according to What’s In Store 2019, How far or how fast the change will go is anybody’s and provides retailers with an opportunity to increase storytell- guess, but the trend toward both packaging and foods that ing around products, curation and sourcing. are easier on the environment is real, and this is far more Retailers are looking for cleaner labels that convey ‘green,’ powerful than a fad. a nebulous term that generally includes organic, fair trade and TPlant-based alternative ‘meat’ slice products are already in some free range. delis, and interest in this growth category by well-financed concerns suggests more are on the way. Making a Green Statement There is a rise of conscious eating, whereby consumers are One of the most definitive ways to make a green statement looking for products and ingredients grown or manufactured in a is in the materials used for packaging and utensils. manner that reflects one’s own beliefs and preferences, accord- Styrofoam is already so yesterday and plastic may be soon ing to the Madison, WI-based International Deli Dairy Bakery to follow as a material not suited to these environmentally-con- Association’s (IDDBA) What’s in Store 2019. Sales of organic scious times. products continue to grow as well as interest in alternatives, such “We are seeing a lot more interest in sustainable utensils,” as plant-based proteins. says Peggy Cross, founder of EcoTensil, Corte Madera, CA. The report also noted that transparency is among the top “It’s coming from the big retailers; it’s not being forced on them consumer-driven trends, which encompasses local, organic, sus- by government regulation. We have increased every year since tainable and ethical foods as well as a desire for clean labels. we started in 2010; when things change in this business, it’s for A focus on sustainable seafood can drive growth amongst mul- the long term.”

14 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 montchevre.indd 1 12/13/19 10:43 AM COVER STORY

EcoTensil’s flagship product is ancompanies have made pledges to reduce, materials that are not recyclable,” says award-winning compostable paper taster reuse and recover plastic packaging with Marinozzi. “Facilities in the U.S. are not that uses one-fifth the space of other tast- ambitious commitment dates.” equipped to recycle items, such as plastic ers and is widely available at major retailers, Sabert makes a full line of green containers, coffee cups, plastic bags and including Target, Costco and Whole Foods. packaging options, including attractive other items that are not clean and dry. “What rises above all of it is just useless compostable cutlery, bowls, plates and Recycling facilities in the U.S. only accept material, whether they are compostable or trays suitable for the deli. paper, cardboard, bottles and cans that are not,” says Cross. “Our products use 55 to “With the United States accounting clean and free of food residue. Attempting 85 percent less material. It’s easy for com- for 4 percent of the world’s population and to recycle items outside this criteria, like panies to go with eco tasters for sampling. producing 12 percent of the world’s total food-soiled petroleum-based plastic con- It’s just a few bites, and it’s very visible. It’s waste, having sustainable packaging at tainers, is considered ‘wish-cycling,’ also an easy way for companies to show their the deli is more important than ever,” says known as tossing something in the bin that customers that they care about the envi- Mark Marinozzi, vice president of market- doesn’t belong.” ronment and reducing plastic.” ing at World Centric, Rohnert Park, CA. Sonoco of Hartsville, SC, has a Sonoco The European Union has an outright “According to the EPA, the U.S. landfills Sustainable Solutions, or S3, program to ban on plastic utensils scheduled to go into 52.5 percent of waste, recycles 25.8 per- help manufacturers achieve zero waste to effect in 2021, according to Cross, and on cent and composts only 8.9 percent.” landfill by finding ways to convert waste this side of the pond there is growing con- World Centric offers a variety of com- streams to revenue or find alternative uses sumer interest in reducing plastic. postable products and distinguishes itself by or disposal methods for previously unrecy- “The last year has marked a global turn- offsetting all the carbon emissions from its cled or landfilled materials. ing point on elevating the importance of the manufacturing and delivery and donating at role single-use packaging plays in protect- least 25 percent of its profits to grassroots Meat You Can Live With ing our environment,” says Kathy Deignan, social and environmental groups. Burger King’s vegan Impossible senior vice president for sales and mar- “Deli operators need to know that they Whopper and the Beyond Meat prod- keting at Sabert, Sayerville, NJ. “Many are generally providing their offerings in ucts that appear in high-end supermarkets

PHOTOS COURTESY OF PIATTI VARI DA FMV

16 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 BelGioioso.indd 1 12/13/19 10:01 AM COVER STORY brought widespread attention to a new wave of vegan ‘meat’ products. But some of the pioneer plant-based proteins have been consumed by health or animal welfare-conscious consumers for many decades. “The market size for plant-based meats has proven to be explosive. Recent data from the Washington, D.C.-based Good Food Institute shows that plant-based meat captures 2 percent market share of retail packaged meat sales,” says Jaime PHOTO COURTESY OF PIATTI VARI DA FMV Athos, president and CEO of Tofurkey, Hood River, OR. “The plant-based meat meats, and there are several ‘groceraunt’ in a dedicated plant-based foods section.” category is worth more than $800 million, delis that serve our slices in plant-based Green Slice produces organic veggie with refrigerated plant-based meats driving sandwich builds.” dogs, vegan and vegetarian deli slices in category growth and sales up an impres- The latest of the plant-based sliced many flavors, and classic, mozzabella, and sive 37 percent. In comparison, sales in the ‘meat’ product available at the deli was bell pepper jack vegan cheese alternatives. conventional meat category grew just 2 developed by a Millennial mother in “In 2020, we will be rolling out our percent during the same period.” Vermont who did not want to feed her Green Slice organic meatless deli slices in Tofurkey pioneered in the vegan meats infant processed meats. the deli section at a major supermarket segment with its introduction nearly a “We are selling plant-based ‘meat’ in chain,” says Beittel. quarter century ago of a soy-based high the deli at Fairway Market and at Roche Many other meat alternative options protein turkey analog. Bros.,” says Véronique Beittel, founder are also already conveniently available near “Plant-based foods are no longer and owner of Green Slice Foods LLC, the deli section. reserved for vegans and vegetarians, but Richmond, VT. “But at most stores, Green “We have Good & Green deli slices flexitarians, curious carnivores and con- Slice is still in the produce section with tofu that are sold in the area near the deli,” says scious consumers alike, as well,” says and other meat alternatives. At Wegman’s, Marie Curcio, customer service and logis- Athos. “Many delis use our plant-based Green Slice organic meatless deli slices are tics manager at Maestri d’Italia, Lakewood,

18 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 COVERSTORY

NJ. “We won Best New Vegan Product at proteins for 40 years, and has the leading “It’s people looking for a health food Expo West in San Francisco.” brand of vegetable-based hot dogs and item,” says Curcio. “It’s not just vegans.” These Maestri d’Italia ‘meats,’ imported tempeh, and Seattle-based Field Roast was Millennials are trend-setting foodies, and from Italy and sliced in New Jersey, come a pioneer in 1997 when it began its line of we may have passed an important bench- in prosciutto, carpaccio, lupine bean and vegetable-based deli slices, sausages, burg- mark when a majority of women in this age spicy flavors, with two more on the way. ers and roasts. group became mothers. They are available at markets, including While most of the growing interest in Véronique Beittel invented Green Shop Rite and Harris Teeter. plant-based foods comes from the search Slice because when her toddler Francisca “If you go by the responses we get on for healthier diets, and some from concerns started to eat solid foods, Beittel didn’t Instagram, people love it,” Curcio says. about animal welfare, the category could want to feed her processed meat. “We’re getting good feedback from the benefit from environmental efforts to com-

PHOTO COURTESY OF PIATTI VARI DA FMV people who have tried it.” bat climate change. The Green Consumer Corporate interest in plant-based The U.S Environmental Protection There is mounting evidence that more ‘meats’ and ‘cheeses’ indicate that well-fi- Agency estimates that agriculture is consumers are looking to eat foods that nanced enterprises have taken a look and responsible for 9 percent of the country’s are healthier, fresher and produced in envi- see opportunity in the category. greenhouse gas emissions, with animal ronmentally responsible ways. Amazon’s Whole Foods offers a plant- agriculture accounting for about 4 percent “It is important to address the use of based herb-roasted sliced deli turkey made of the total. petroleum-based plastic and virgin wood of vital wheat gluten; soy; salt; bean flour; The most detailed greenhouse gas fiber in single-use disposable foodser- yeast extract; rice bran; organic dried tofu; inventory is probably that maintained by vice ware versus compostable materials, dried onions; dried garlic; citric acid; and the California Air Resources Board under such as sugarcane bagasse, bamboo fiber natural smoked flavor. The vegan ‘meat’ the state’s cap and trade legislation, which and bio-based plastics,” says Marinozzi. was joined recently by Whole Foods’ dairy- estimates the animal agriculture, including ”With over 28 million tons of petro- free vegan sliced ‘cheese.’ the nation’s largest dairy industry, con- leum-based plastic ending up in U.S. Investors launched Chicago-based tributes a bit over 5 percent of all climate landfills each year, and human activity Greenleaf Foods in 2018, and the firm changing emissions. testing the limits of our planet’s bio-ca- acquired plant-based food leaders Lightlife But the major reason people actually pacity, we need to find better alternatives and Field Roast. buy plant-based foods is they believe they to everyday single-use plastic and poly- Lightlife has been producing plant-based are healthier. styrene disposables.” There is a significant potential market reward for a deli that can convey the mes- sage they have gone green. There is also already a growing market for environmentally friendly utensils in the supermarket deli. “Next year we will be doubling in size, especially with the change in Europe,” says EcoTensil founder Cross. “We’re opening a warehouse in the Netherlands.” European regulations may be a harbin- ger of greener packaging in blue states and localities on this side of the Atlantic. “With the ban on single use plastic becoming effective in the EU by 2021, we have been seeing a huge demand from that side of the pond,” says Cross. “I’ve been to numerous trade shows, done in-store research and talked to quite a few industry people over there.” Many localities have already banned the use of Styrofoam by retail outlets, including delis, and the next wave in green packaging could target reduction in tree-based products as well as petroleum-based. “In addition to reducing our use of petroleum-based plastics, using sustainable paper alternatives can make a measurable and significant reduction in the environmental damage caused by our tree-based products,” says Marinozzi. DB

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 19 Don Salads.indd 1 12/13/19 10:24 AM Don Salads.indd 2 12/13/19 10:24 AM MERCHANDISING REVIEW The 411 on Fermented Foods

The popularity of fermented foods continues, as its health benefits and flavors drive the category

BY LISA WHITE

hat’s all the fuss about cha, kimchi and sauerkraut. wave of popularity. fermentation? First, it “The next wave is shelf stable prod- “We’ve seen 13 years of straight sales helps to be aware of ucts,” he says. “This includes pickles and growth [in our product],” says Eric Girard, what this process entails. other food that doesn’t have live cultures vice president of sales and marketing at Fermentation is the but use fermentation for preservation.” Van Holten’s, headquartered in Waterloo, Wprocess of converting carbohydrates to Fermentation also is a process used to WI. “The past two years have seen some alcohol or organic acids by using yeasts or produce sourdough bread, beer and wine of our strongest growth.” bacteria under anaerobic conditions. as well as salami and other meats. The Fermentation Association “Fermented food and beverages are a The Benefits addresses fermentation as the main focus $689 billion industry and will total $888 Dieticians and doctors tout fermented of food preservation, giving the category a billion by 2023,” says Amelia Nielson- foods’ benefit to gut health and say it’s due voice and support. Stowell, editor at The Fermentation to healthy bacteria and microbes. According to Neal Vitale, executive Association. “It’s the next superfood and a But many are not aware of fermenta- director of the association, the core of fer- top menu trend that’s growing rapidly, as tion’s history. mentation is centered around refrigerated more people are rediscovering the benefits “Fermentation has been around for products sold with live cultures, such as of fermented foods.” centuries and is, in fact, one of the oldest pickles, yogurt-based products, kombu- Fermented deli foods also are riding this means for creating and preserving food,”

22 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 MERCHANDISING REVIEW says Vitale. “It’s a worldwide phenomenon and activity.” Many countries have a higher use of fermentation with items like soy-based products in Asia. This diverse category can be broken down into different kinds of fermentation—bacteria based, yeast based, lactic acid and mold-based fermentation are just a few examples. There is definitely room for growth, as there is an education gap,” says Nielson- Stowell. “People want fermented foods but don’t understand what they are.” Healthy eating is a major driver of fermented foods’ popularity. Deli and grocery sales are consumer driven, and consumers are favoring brands that are healthy, craft and artisanal, all core values of fermentation brands. “Fermentation is about creating flavor when you focus on the process,” says Vitale. “The process creates a deep, rich and exciting flavor profile, and this, with a combination of delicious food that helps gut health, is enticing for consumers.” There are surprisingly many deli foods that fall into the fermented category. “Ten years ago, those foods weren’t displayed or were a very small subset hid- den within the canned goods space,” says Nielson-Stowell. “Now, there are exciting and flavorful brands in the deli department.” Fermented foods are certainly in the midst of a heavy adoption period in grocery.

“From the olive bar to the dairy case to PHOTO COURTESY OF DELALLO FOODS the beverage display, we see this trend as a continuing evolution of food crafted for inherent in their history, and they grew up fun and function–ingredients that not only There are with it.” taste great but also offer health benefits,” Piller’s salami is cold smoked a minimum says Brandon Gross, vice president of mar- of six days, then dry aged for at least 28 keting, FOODMatch, in New York City. surprisingly days after that. Gut health and inflammation are at the “The meat ferments during the aging forefront of consumer consciousness, yet many deli foods process similar to fine cheese and wine,” fermented foods also add flavor to tradi- says Brando. “During this process, it tional dishes. that fall into obtains a mature and unique flavor pro- “Fermented foods are a delicious way file, with certain notes up front and others to add big flavor to staple dishes,” says the fermented evolving during the process.” Gross. “They can act as a superfood The fermented food trend makes sense, super-ingredient.” as Millennials are looking for foods that do An example is FOODMatch’s updated category. more than fill them up, but offer health classic Italian Giardiniera, which is chopped benefits, too. and fermented to add crunch, brightness for Roman soldiers marching across Europe. “Fermented foods and drinks are per- and fresh-from-the-garden flavor to salads, “They realized that by smoking salami fect, because they don’t taste healthy, but sandwiches, soups, stews, chili, nachos, prior to drying it, the process would are flavorful without all the over-process- tacos and more. preserve it in a way that did now allow bac- ing,” says Giuliana Pozzuto, director of In terms of meat, Romans invented teria to thrive,” says Dave Brando, director, marketing, DeLallo Foods, Mt. Pleasant, fermentation of Italian salami before the international sales, Piller’s Fine Foods, PA. “They are certainly more natural, and advent of refrigeration to preserve meat. Ontario, Canada. “Central Europeans pre- this makes them all the more appealing.” This food was the primary energy source fer the smoked flavor profile because it is Some forget that olives are a fermented

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 23 MERCHANDISING REVIEW food—maybe because they’ve been around cess,” explains DeLallo’s Pozzuto. gourmet items, from cheese to salami to long before the trend. DeLallo’s newest items include anti- olives and pickles. Pickles are the more obvious item that pasto salads featuring its California fits the category. Sevillano Olive, sweet Italian Roasted Successful Selling “Pickles are fat free, sugar free and glu- Tomatoes, Provolone cheese, and pesto Suprmarket delis can successfully ten free as well as a bit part of the Keto marinade for well-rounded antipasto that market fermented foods to customers by diet,” says Girard. brighten up many dishes as well as char- touting their health benefits. cuterie trays and cheese boards. “In-store demos are the best form of Fermented in Deli “We have seen a lot of evolution in marketing according to suppliers,” says There are a number of new develop- single-serve pickles,” says Girard at Van Nielson-Stowell of The Fermentation ments in fermented deli foods. Holten’s. “We don’t have jars for the cen- Association. “Supermarkets and delis can Piller’s recently introduced salami whips, ter store, as we are mainly for for grab and work in partnership with brands to bring changing the format of its meat into a thin, go snack occasions.” demos into their stores and get consumers long meat snack with a tender bite. The company, which has been in busi- to taste the products.” “We’re preslicing salami into packages, ness since 1989, offers a standard whole Piller’s Brando recommends showing and have launched a trio with our three cucumber pickle in single-serve packag- off fermented foods’ characteristics by most popular salami flavors,” says Brando. ing brine that keeps it shelf stable with no sampling at the store levvel and pairing “These are in unique shapes, with Old refrigeration needed. with products that compliment the items’ Forest in a flower format, mustard seed In November 2018, Van Holten’s rolled unique depth of flavor. in a square diamond shape and reduced out Pickle Cutz, which are fermented “Provide a charcuterie pairing guide sodium in a heart design.” through refrigeration rather than brine. that includes an in-depth flavor profile It’s important to note that, when it Many also are attributing the popularity describing our signature salamis as well as comes to olives, some of the most com- of fermented foods to the spike in gourmet food and beverage pairings,” he says. “This mon varieties are processed rather than entertaining (i.e. cheese boards, charcuterie assists customers in implementing a beau- fermented. This includes black ripe canned trays, antipasto spreads, etc.). Whether tiful charcuterie board.” olives and Castelvetrano olives, which are they have realized it or not, customers are Vitale at The Fermentation Association treated with chemicals for a quicker cure. incorporating the health benefits of fer- recommends an increase to the square “Lacto-fermented olives can take mented foods (and the famously healthful footage devoted to this category in the months to cure fully, but it’s a natural pro- Mediterranean diet, too) in their favorite deli. “We’re seeing fermented foods con- solidated in more of a shopping area, and chains like Whole Foods and Sprouts justifiably devoting more space to this category,” he says. Many predict an influx of fermented deli items with unique flavor combinations in the years ahead. Pozzuto at DeLallo predicts fermented foods will remain prevalent, as consumers seek out functional foods that are healthy and flavorful. “Olives and antipasti are tasty snacks and ingredients that offer more natural health benefits than over-processed shakes and bars,” she says. “That said, I think we will see more and more marketing geared towards fermented and more products come about because of it.” Girard at Van Holten’s agrees, saying he’s seeing a lot of competition, even if it’s not direct, in this space. “Consumers continue to turn away from salty snacks to easy grab and go items that are healthier,” he says. “Pickles were often a spear at the side of a sandwich, which it still is, but can be a snack. Fermented foods will garner more shelf space in delis in the future, but companies will need to innovate with flavors to keep it fresh and top of mind.” DB

24 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 PREPARED FOODS

PHOTOS COURTESY OF HISSHO SUSHI, TYSON FOODS AND DON’S FOODS Making a Meal DESTINATION Deli entrées have evolved and become higher end to better compete with restaurant offerings BY LISA WHITE

repared foods have definitely as well.” WI-based International Dairy Deli Bakery been taking over deli depart- Association (IDDBA). “Stores are taking ments, not only creating meal Entrée Evolution on different types of programs, such as in- destinations that are giving What we’ve been seeing in the last four store dining.” today’s restaurants a run for to five years is an evolution into prepared What’s driving this is changing con- Ptheir money, but also raising basket rings foods destinations. sumer eating patterns. More people want for retailers. “This can be a separate segment in the convenience and prepared food options, New York City-based market research store in some cases, but it depends on the and the perfect time for picking up a meal is firm Nielsen reports that in the 52 weeks store format,” says Eric Richard, indus- during a grocery shopping trip. ending Oct. 26, 2019, prepared food dollar try relations coordinator for the Madison, Rather than the quintessential sand- sales totaled close to $30 billion, a 3.8 per- wiches or pizza, shoppers are seeking cent increase from the same period a year healthier fare, including plant-based prior. entrées, foods sourced locally and unique, “In general, we are seeing that consum- upscale fare typically found in restaurants. ers expect to have it all, including products “Restaurant trends are transcending to that offer indulgence with healthful char- supermarket delis,” says Richard. “Retailers acteristics that feed the desires of today’s are in a good position to compete with consumers at home,” says Sharon Olson, restaurants.” executive director of Culinary Visions, A robust menu with new ideas is not a based in Chicago. “Healthful, delicious, necessity, but a focus on flavor and doing a accessible and sustainable menu offerings few things well are key. are driving foodservice and of course, that “Those embarking on a successful pre-

would also apply to the supermarket deli, PHOTO COURTESY OF DON’S FOODS pared foods program need to compete

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 25 PREPARED FOODS with restaurants of all types,” he says. Pepper Roll and Veggie TNT Rolls made “Customization and personalization are with a plant-based protein to serve as the very important to take prepared food pro- “tuna” – a roasted bell pepper. grams to a new level.” The company also has launched three While one customer may want to light salads to complement its sushi rolls explore different options, another’s goal and complete families’ meals. The new may be to get in and out quickly. Providing Zesty Cucumber Salad, Ginger Edamame both experiences can expand a program’s Salad and Banzai Crab Salad can serve as a demographic to both types of consumers. side for any lunch or dinner roll. “From our experience, supermarket In addition, its offerings now include delis are evolving into a destination for six poke bowls and stuffed dumplings for a shoppers, where they can find innovative Dim Sum menu. entrées with authentic flavors that are A number of new deli entrées have fresh, healthy and satisfying,” says Breana reduced the amount of artificial ingredients Jones, director, marketing and sales at and now offer cleaner ingredient lists. Hissho Sushi, based in Charlotte, NC. “We are also seeing different portion “They want more convenience, flexibility sizes in prepack entrées to cater to the and variety in prepared meals.” different consumer household sizes,” says Entrée items are becoming more McCarthy at Reser’s. sophisticated in the deli in terms of prod- Reser’s recently launched three entrées uct, packaging and merchandising. in the deli—Baked Ziti Bolognese, Baked “The products have moved from stan- Chicken Broccoli Cheddar, and Baked 5 dard and traditional recipes to more Cheese Macaroni—that are fully baked for premium ones with specialty ingredients a homemade taste and appearance with- and flavors that cater to today’s more out any prep. These entrées also come in a demanding palates,” says John McCarthy, tray that is safe to heat in the microwave or senior brand marketing manager, Reser’s oven so they can go directly from fridge to

Fine Foods, Beaverton, OR. “There is also PHOTO COURTESY OF HISSHO SUSHI oven for added convenience. a greater variety of entrées available in both Nuovo Pasta is relaunching its pesto line bulk and prepack. New meal kit packages and debuting traditional sauces like marina- are now offered that allow consumers to ras, al fredos and putenascas. customize their meals.” “There has been an evolution with Delis today are creating meal solution prepared food companies launching more sections where entrées are sold next to gourmet side dishes that retailers can put complementary items, such as sides and together in commissaries,” says Carl H. salads, to make it easy for consumers to Cappelli, senior vice president of sales and quickly pick up dinner on busy weeknights. business development, Don’s Prepared Whereas in the past, food was eaten for Foods, Schwenksville, PA. fuel, today it’s more about the experience. The company has launched five global- “This is an important factor to keep ly-inspired gourmet sides. in mind from a retail standpoint, to give “There are trends with Middle Eastern, consumers an experience,” says Larry Asian and Latin American flavors, but

Montuori, vice president of sales, Nuovo PHOTO COURTESY OF TYSON FOODS comfort foods remain big in the U.S.,” says Pasta Enterprises, Stratford, CT. Cappelli. “The other big trend is prepared In the last 12 to 24 months, there has customer put fried chicken, a vegetable and or heat-and-eat foods with little to no prep been an influx of take-and-bake and quick- starch in a separate self-serve bag or con- needed. Consumers also are seeking clean serve entrée foods and meals within the tainer, they can now easily grab an entrée products with no artificial flavors, colors or supermakret deli. that includes all items, and it is much more preservatives.” “Most stores offer pre-made entrée appealing than a frozen dinner and, in most There’s been an evolution from plated options, but some do offer self service cases, has been freshly prepared the same meals to chef-inspired meal kits. Now or make-your-own options,” says Derek day,” says Skogen. retailers are taking the cue and chains like Skogen, senior product manager, Placon, Kroger, Publix and Whole Foods are jump- Fitchburg, WI. “Today’s consumer is look- Trends & New Products ing on that bandwagon. ing for a convenience type meal solution Customers are seeking meal solutions Over the past 12 to 24 months, Placon that does not require a lot of time and is that are quick and convenient. has launched a variety of products within easy to prepare.” As a result, Hissho Sushi created its HomeFresh Entrée product line. This Most stores have a dedicated space to new, innovative rolls that not only deliver provides a variety of options, ranging from an entrée or meal kit section that includes on taste, but also fulfill the health stan- one- to three-compartment bases that can items prepared in the store deli area. dard more shoppers are searching to find. hold 8 up to 40 ounces of hot or cold foods. “Rather than having a supermarket deli This year, the company unveiled its Spicy Keep in mind that most consumers

26 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 PREPARED FOODS don’t know what they are having for dinner Hawaiian rolls and ranch dressing for a tonight let alone in the next few days. buffalo chicken slider. All you need is three “So it is critical to properly merchandise ingredients, and it feels like a completely entrées next to sides, salads and comple- different meal.” mentary dishes to create a meal solution To ensure that messaging thrives, center,” says Reser’s McCarthy. “It is opti- Hissho turns to its trained chefs to connect mal to provide simple meal ideas using shelf directly with shoppers inside the deli area signage or tear sheets at the shelf that pair and capture audiences through education an entrée with a side and a salad, etc. for a of its menu, tastings and samples. complete meal and offer special meal deal “Retailers need to make it easy for con- bundle pricing to make it as simple as possi- sumers to find what they’re looking for and ble for consumers.” provide vegan/vegetarian options, entrées for meat eaters, and items to accom- Marketing for Moving pany entrées like French bread and grilled There are a couple approaches, includ- chicken, salad,” says Cappelli at Don’s. “It ing providing an all-in-one solution and should be easy for them to find meal solu- cross merchandising with other foods. tions to meet everyone’s needs.” “On the one hand, there’s a basic level Utilizing social media brings tremendous with rotisserie chicken, sides, a roll and PHOTO COURTEDY OF DON’S FOODS value with deli prepared food marketing beverages,” says Eric LeBlanc, director of programs and is something all stores should marketing, Tyson Foods, Springdale, AR. each night or provide the components for be engaging in. “Cross merchandising is fresher, yet you a meal, such as chicken tenders, sub rolls, “It’s up to the individual chains to put can only do this with so many meal solu- Mozzarella cheese and spaghetti sauce for the focus and concentrated effort on pre- tions at a time.” a chicken Parmesan sandwich. pared foods departments,” says Richard at Tyson recently worked with a retailer “[The mindset is] how do you take IDDBA. “We’re seeing new builds within on co-merchandising, and by messaging something that’s not exciting on its own supermarket chains where there is a much outside the store, sales increased between and make it into something that feels greater focus on this segment than in the 15 and 20 percent. like another meal or dish,” says LeBlanc. past, and we predict that will continue to Retailers also can rotate a meal special “For example, combining buffalo wings, grow.” DB

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 27 Fresh Food.indd 1 12/13/19 10:05 AM Fresh Food.indd 2 12/13/19 10:06 AM FEATURE An Enduring Segment

With fried chicken, it’s all about the flavor BY BOB JOHNSON

ried chicken remains hot as a on the table by missing opportunities to lot of stuff held past its life; grocery stores forbidden pleasure that many become a definite destination for this have to execute and not hold it for four or consumers crave as one of their crunchy, juicy standard. five hours.” exceptions to the general rule of “There are opportunities to create a Tenders have a one-hour shelf life, trying to eat healthier foods. great fried chicken product,” says Greg according to West, bone-in less than two FIn their reluctance to devote the atten- West, senior vice president for marketing hours, and rotisserie chicken three hours. tion and staff time it takes to do fried and food innovation at The Broaster Co., “That’s one reason rotisserie is so pop- chicken right, many supermarket delis, Beloit, WI. “The grocery stores have had ular with the stores,” he says. “But when probably most of them, are leaving money trouble creating a fresh product. There’s a you want great taste, it’s in fried chicken.”

30 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 FEATURE

Even with the reluctance to devote the time needed to maximize the category by always offering a fresh product, supermarket delis continue to enjoy robust sales of these products. “Including all forms of fried chicken— bone-in, skin-on parts, nuggets, strips, patties and similar items—the market at grocery and club stores continues to show good growth for these products,” says Tom Super, senior vice president for communi- cations at the National Chicken Council, Washington D.C. “Shoppers value the taste, convenience, and good, steady prices for fried chicken.”

Make it Tasty A successful fried chicken program begins with a product that is reliably crunchy, juicy and flavorful. “What you really want is chicken that is moist, breading that is crunchy and spici- ness in the breading, which usually means flavor to the fried chicken program. than run away from it. pepper,” says Eric Le Blanc, director of “There are a lot of advantages to “Kentucky Fried Chicken changed its marketing for deli at Tyson Foods Inc., breading at the store level,” says Le Blanc. name to KFC in 1991 to avoid the conno- Springdale, AR. “There is a movement away from breaded tations of the word ‘fried,’” says West, who Good fried chicken, according to West, toward breading.” used to work for the Colonel. “Today, they should be fresh and never frozen, mari- Suppliers can set the deli up with a promote ‘finger lickin’ good.’ It’s all about nated, coated with a breading, and pressure package that lets staff quickly and easily the taste.” fried rather than open fried. coat the chicken and then fry it. The fried chicken category is one deli “It makes the product crispy on the “Our proprietary process allows the category where, for the time being, flavor outside and juicy on the inside,” he says. operator to prebread or precoat the chicken triumphs over nutrition. “That’s the magic. Our fried chicken, also ahead of time, allowing them to immedi- “Short term, I don’t think the trend available as spicy, has one of the lowest ately drop or fry chicken upon an order,” toward healthier eating is any threat at all breading or coating levels for fried chicken. says West. “This gives greater simplicity in to fried chicken,” says Le Blanc. “It’s an It is still very crispy on the outside and juicy the execution.” indulgence product. I have seen no evi- on the inside.” There has been an evolution, as major dence fried chicken shoppers care about The breading, or coating, is one area players in fried chicken have come to anything other than the flavor.” that adds a distinctive, and possibly fresh, embrace the delicious greasy stuff, rather Make It Convenient According to consumer data compiled by Tyson, when it comes to deli chicken, shoppers’ convenience is even more important than quality. More than a quarter of deli prepared food shoppers don’t decide what’s for dinner until someone says they’re hungry, and these consumers are choosing chicken; chicken is number four among deli meats, but number one among prepared meats. The deli is ideally positioned to offer consumers many choices of dishes to buy to combine with fried chicken to put together a convenient meal. “Creating the meal is about stretch- ing the meal companions,” says Tyson’s Le Blanc. ‘If you put other fresh ingredients with it, you can provide a better eating experience. Co-merchandising is nice, but not really necessary.”

PHOTO COURTESY OF BROASTER DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 31 FEATURE

The complete meal can be an effective “Chik Fil A will have a side salad, a fruit more taste and texture. With an abundance way for the deli to display and merchandise salad, even a kale salad.” of chicken breast meat, delis can be confi- fried chicken. Further evidence of the popularity of dent that managing this part of their menu “Promoting meal kits continues to be convenient meals built around chicken can will be less taxing than much of their other an option delis are using, in addition to the be found in the growing popularity of meals concerns. Also, just like fried chicken that more standard approaches of buy-one/get in a bowl. can be offered hot or chilled, mac/cheese/ a free side item, weekend specials, home “A bit similar to the rising demand for chicken finds favor warm or chilled.” delivery/pick/up bonuses and the like,” bowls is the renewed interest in mac and The recent chicken sandwich craze is says Super. “Long gone is a deli that just cheese dishes,” says Super. “While some yet another example of the popularity of offers bone-in/skin-on fried chicken.” restaurant chains are having success by the convenient meal that could be devel- The companion foods can be an area adding lobster pieces to mac and cheese, oped in a fried chicken program. where the deli pays homage to good nutri- supermarkets find this to be costly and the “The recent extreme popularity of an tion, in addition to offering the flavorful supply too tight and uneven. So, the other upgraded chicken breast meat sandwich at mist, greasy crunch that is fried chicken. white meat, chicken, is stepping-in to save a major fast food chain is not lost at the deli “I’m not giving up fried chicken; I just the day, or rather extend the appeal of mac department in many supermarkets,” says eat more vegetables with it,” says West. and cheese to those consumers who desire Super. “These stores are diligently work-

MAKE THE OIL LAST, AND USE IT AGAIN The choice of oils for fried chicken “Long term, you may see a shift away three most popular plant-based oils begins with choosing one that will have from fried chicken, but there is no evi- for deep frying are peanut, canola and a maximum life and cause a minimum of dence that adding any kind of nutrition sunflower. It’s the individual owner’s nasty cleanup. claim registers with these consumers. choice, but one of those three usually “For deep frying, choosing oil with a I would focus on making it taste good, hits the balance of healthiness, smoke high smoke point will prolong the life of rather than on the ingredients or how point and cost.” the oil,” advises Giovanni Brienza, vice the chicken was raised.” Once the oil has run its useful life president of Frontline International, Retailers who believe their consum- for frying chicken, it can be recycled Cuyahoga Falls, OH. “Coconut, soybean, ers are exceptions to this nutritional and live again as fuel or animal feed. corn, peanut and canola oils are all pop- rule, or who feel a responsibility to “There’s an entire industry built on ular choices.” offer the healthiest options, do have collecting and recycling used cooking Frontline makes a variety of both alternatives. oil,” says Brienza. “Roughly 80 per- fresh and waste oil equipment, and “Avocado oil is probably the best cent of it ends of up in biofuels, which offers a wealth of information on from a health perspective, but it has an are used to generate clean energy. extending shelf life. extremely low smoke point and is not The rest becomes nutritional additives “Through the cooking cycle, some oil at all appropriate for deep frying,” says for animal feed, and a small portion is inevitably absorbed into the food,” Brienza. “Peanut oil is very low in sat- becomes glycerin used in the manu- advises Brienza. “Regularly topping it urated fat, very healthy and well-suited facturing of cosmetics.” off will extend oil life and control food to deep frying. Some people are con- The amount of oil that can be recy- quality, as well. Next, they should fil- cerned that it might cause issues for cled for money, according to Brienza, ter the oil at least daily to eliminate customers with nut allergies, but the has a lot to do with the oil chosen and the debris. The more debris in the oil, filtration the oil goes through elimi- the program used for keeping it free of the faster the oil will break down. It’s nates any allergens. Peanut oil can cost debris. always wise to install a device to mon- more than some of the other healthier “To maximize rebates, the key for itor the total polar material, or TPM, of options, so canola oil and sunflower oil managers is to have the highest pos- the oil. A level higher than 14 or 15 per- are also good choices.” sible yield of recyclable oil in the cent will break down the oil much faster. There are many reasons to shy away collection tank,” he says. “They can A TPM reading greater than 25 percent is from frying chicken in animal fats, how- achieve this by eliminating any water considered the discard point.” ever, and good nutrition is just one of or moisture from their tanks. For While some oils are healthier than them. example, animal fats have a high mois- others, fried chicken is one category “We would recommend avoiding ani- ture content, so that’s another reason where that might not matter much to mal fats and lard,” says Brienza. “They not to use those. Also, don’t rinse the most consumers. create a host of problems, not the least fryers with water while draining them. “Maybe 40 percent of all consumers of which is the health-related issue of Debris in the oil can also reduce the read labels for ingredients, but when added saturated fat. Next, because deep rebate amount, so be sure to filter the you come to the fried chicken shopper frying is a high-heat cooking method, oil before it goes into the containment they don’t even pretend to care,” says we recommend they choose an oil with tank. The goal would be to get 98 per- Eric Le Blanc, director of marketing for a high smoke point that won’t also cent recyclable used oil in the tank, so deli at Tyson Foods Inc., Springdale, AR. impart an aftertaste to the food. The the margin of error is very small.” DB

32 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2019 Refrigerated Foods.indd 1 12/13/19 10:45 AM FEATURE

ing to have their version of this highly/ widely popular sandwich. Operationally, executing the preparation and delivery of a successfully competing sandwich can be a challenge for some deli departments. But, for those stores that can attract shoppers with this new sandwich, the rewards can be positive and likely store wide. Stores that have eat-in/sit-down eating areas have the advantage with this sandwich.” Whatever the fried chicken is paired with, consumers want to see it displayed in a way that is easy for them to see and purchase without waiting. “Mostly, it’s in the deli’s hot service case, and a good percent of shoppers like that they can grab it without waiting in line,” says Le Blanc.

Make it Economical One reason chicken, especially prepared chicken, is so popular in the deli is it is so inexpensive. “Fried chicken fluctuates quite a bit with price promotions, but sales have been generally steady,” says Le Blanc. “There will be a couple down years followed by a couple of up years, but fried chicken is about the most price sensitive item among prepared hot foods. Fried chicken is usually sold by the piece. Eight pieces is the most common, but you also see two- or three-piece lunch offers.” Offering fried chicken that has cooled off opens the product to an even larger number of lower income consumers. “Once it is cold, it is eligible to be sold under the SNAP program, which opens up a lot of customers,” says Le Blanc. Because global trade is going through an uncertain phase, supermarket deli retailers would do well to prepare in advance for the possibility that demand for chicken could increase dramatically in a hurry and drive up the price. “Competing red meat products have experienced much more volatility in the wholesale prices, as the ups and downs in the export market have impacted the current and future outlook for domestic availability of these meats,” says Super. “At the same time, if the Chinese market re-opens for U.S. chicken, retailers could see some price pressure on their chicken products. Many of the larger retailers are working with their current and potential chicken suppliers to agree upon a contract that is fair to both sides in the event that China steps in to purchase a large, ongoing quantity of chicken.” DB

34 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 American Cheese.indd 1 12/13/19 10:00 AM CHEESE CORNER Greek Feta: A Cheese as Old as Humanity Discover how this age-old favorite came about and the qualities that make it so unique

BY HANNAH HOWARD

eta cheese has been a part of Greece for nearly as long as humanity itself. It derives from the very first cheese made around 8,000 years ago, which F was made soon after people began domesticating animals. Historians believe that milk began to ferment while being transported in the stomach of a goat or sheep. The shepherds noticed that the new product lasted much longer than fresh milk—and cheese was born. The first written mention of Feta appears in Homer’s Odyssey, which dates from near the end of the 8th century BC. The protagonist Ulysses ventures to visit the cave of Polyphemus, also known as the Cyclops. When he arrives, he finds all the evidence of cheesemaking in action: “We soon reached his cave, but he was out shepherding. We went inside the cave

PHOTO COURTESY OF ESSEX CHEESE AND ALISON CHRISTIANA 36 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 EU Feta.indd 1 12/13/19 10:28 AM CHEESE CORNER and looked around. It was astonishing— learning a ton and visiting many different brine weekly so that the Feta does not sit crates full of cheese, pens crammed with producers,” she recalls. “It fit with our in its own whey, as salt pulls the whey out livestock-lambs and kids sorted into sepa- mission to find cheeses that are misun- of the cheese. rate groups, with yearlings, older lambs derstood in the marketplace—we find the Sheree Cardoos, who now runs and newborns each in different pens. All truly authentic version.” That described Cardoos McKenna Marketing in San the sturdy buckets, pails and milking bowls Feta perfectly, a cheese that is often seen Francisco, worked as the president of were awash with whey. Next, Polyphemus only as a vehicle for salt and texture in a Mt Vikos for 10 years before selling the curdled half the white milk, gathered it in salad or an omelet. Instead, Essex St. company to Blue Marble. She still works wicker baskets and laid it away. Cheese wanted to celebrate the artisanal with the brand as a broker. At Mt Vikos, The Cyclops is the mythical grandfather version of one of the world’s most ancient which sells PDO Greek Feta, the cheese of Feta cheese. Since then, this favorite has and revered cheeses.” come from the milk of sheep and goats been at the center of Greek cuisine, culture That version of its Feta comes from (they use about 15 percent goat’s milk) and life. Agra on the island of Lesbos, where it is that graze on fresh grasses and herbs in the crafted by third generation cheesemaker mountains of Thessaly. This “gives the milk Slice or Slab M. Tastanis. The Feta is made every day the extra wonderful flavor and quality,” The word “Feta” means slice or slab in between mid-December and the end of according to Cardoos. Greek. That term originated in the 17th July when the sheep graze on fresh grasses, They never use add calcium chloride or century—before then, Feta was just called herbs and wildflowers, with a combination whey powder, common additions to cow’s “cheese” in Greece—and refers to the of chilled evening milk and fresh morning milk Feta, or use commodity milk or whey tradition of slicing up cheese and placing it milk. After the milk is pasteurized, it is powder. Made in a traditional manner, Mt in barrels, a practice that continues to this cooled down, and a spoon of yogurt, a Vikos’ Feta is crafted in 20-pound rounds, day. Brining is an essential part of what starter culture, and animal rennet is added. then stacked five tall in a Beachwood barrel makes Feta unique. The cheese is tradi- Soon, it develops a creamy texture, and and covered with brine. The cheese is then tionally made with sheep’s milk, although the curds are cut into cubes, salted and cellared for four months, which allows the up to 30 percent of the milk can come from pressed for 30 minutes, then salted again flavor to develop into something complex, goats. Feta has a tangy, fresh and briny on each side for several hours. The curds robust and toothsome. “Cheese right out of flavor and a creamy yet crumbly texture. are thumb-sized, which is what allows the the barrel is fabulous,” exclaims Cardoos. Sheep’s milk imparts a buttery richness, cheese to so easily crumble. It’s almost the “The most delicious thing I’ve had.” and goat’s milk adds acidity. exact same process that the Cyclops used Rachel Juhl, chief educator and trainer thousands of years ago. A Hard-Won Fight for Name at Brooklyn, NY-based Essex St. Cheese, The cheesemaker controls the content Protection has been immersed in Feta since well of the brine, what kind and how much salt After 16 years of court battles with before the cheese importer and wholesaler is used, and how often the brine is changed. Germany and Denmark, which make launched its own Greek Feta in 2013. “It “Salt is another ingredient that effects the their own cheese that they wanted to was a three-year process, which involved flavor,” says Juhl. Tastanis changes the be able to call Feta, the European Union

PHOTO COURTESY OF XXXXXXXXXXXXX

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ESSEX CHEESE AND ALISON CHRISTIANA

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Feta. In the U.S., Feta is most often served in Greek salads, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to delicious ways to enjoy the cheese. Tossed into a refreshing salad with watermelon and mint, Feta’s PHOTOS COURTESY OF ESSEX CHEESE AND ALISON CHRISTIANA savory notes highlight the fresh sweetness of the fruit. granted name-protected PDO (Protected traditionally grown and fed in these areas Use it as a topping for pizza or brus- Designation of Origin) status to Greek and whose diet is based on its natural chetta—a pizza with fresh tomato, olives, Feta in 2002. Other countries were given flora. PDO Feta must be made with only artichokes and Feta is a guaranteed crowd- five years to rename their cheeses or stop sheep’s milk—and maybe some goat’s pleaser. It’s the perfect addition to meat and production. Sometimes called “white gold,” milk—rennet and salt. Feta is matured for cheese pies, adding a great and creamy bite. it is one of the country’s most important at least 60 days and cannot contain antibi- Grilled veggies and Feta in foil is an excel- food exports. otics, preservatives, additives and/or food lent meatless meal or a summer side. Feta “With the economic crisis, advocating coloring. Cow’s milk “Feta” is often dyed to is also a good friend to eggs, whether it’s for unique stories and history, instead of create the natural white color of sheep and mixed into an omelet with spinach, scram- assuming everyone knows, became extra goat’s milk cheese. bled into breakfast eggs with fresh herbs, or important for Greece,” Juhl explained. Its “Most people know Feta as the dry, added to a frittata. unique history, tradition and geographic salty, crumbly stuff that goes on a Greek “I love marinating Feta in good olive oil, location distinguish Greek Feta from its salad,” says Cardoos. “What they’re fresh thyme, oregano and peppercorns,” cousins around the world. “The flora really buying, is cow’s milk domestic Feta, often Cardoos explains. “Throw that on bread, sets this cheese apart from everywhere pre-crumbled,” and not the real deal. As for and it’s heaven.” else in the Mediterranean,” Juhl adds. the real thing, it’s uniquely clean, sweet- But the very best way to serve Feta “There are more than 6,000 species of tart and full-bodied. Only about 2 percent harkens back to its name—as a slab, just natural flora that are endemic—and they of all Feta consumed in the United States is as it is. “There is always a slab of Feta on only exist in Greece.” actually made in Greece. the table,” Juhl says of her visits to Greece, To receive the PDO, Feta can be made with meals served family-style. “It goes in one of seven regions: specific prefec- Enjoying Feta with lamb, fresh veggies and pretty much tures on the mainland and the islands Feta is a quintessential part of life everything.” Pair Feta with soft red wines, of the Peloponnese; Thessalia; Epirus; in Greece—the average Greek person like Pinot Noir and Beaujolais, and crisp Macedonia; Thrace; and Lesbos. Feta is consumes about 50 pounds each year, white wines, including Sauvignon Blanc produced from breeds of sheep and goat and 70 percent of the cheese Greeks eat is and bubbly Cava. DB

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ALL PHOTOS BY LYDIA LEE The Fine & Unparalleled Goat Cheese of France Find out why this revered cheese is becoming even more cherished. BY HANNAH HOWARD

he great wide world of to Northern Europe and America, which to thinking of that creamy, tangy fresh kind French goat cheese is, well, is a wonderful thing for us Chèvre fans. as the only kind—but Chèvre ranges from great and wide. Three thou- France is the largest producer of pure goat spreadable and young to flaky and aged. sand producers and 60 dairies cheeses—cheese made with goat’s milk The cheeses are crafted throughout all of produce over 265 million only—in the world. France, and each region has its own way poundsT of goat cheese each year—that’s In French, Chèvre simply means goat. of doing things—and is super proud of a staggering amount of cheese. French But for our purposes, when we refer to that fact. farmers manage the third largest goat herd Chèvre, we’re talking about the countless “What I’m always thinking about— in Europe, with 1,381,000 goats—it takes a generations of French goat cheesemaking and what always strikes me when I go to lot of goats to make so much cheese. They tradition. If goat cheeses are anything, France and interact with French cheeses export about 27 percent of their cheeses they’re diverse. We’re often accustomed and cheesemakers—is the centuries

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of refinement,” says Tia Keenan, New York City-based fromager and author of Chèvre. “As Americans, we don’t get to see that much. It’s a matter of time, culture and careful refinement that can’t be repli- cated” that are the essential ingredients in French goat cheese. Historically, French Chèvre has been produced in eight regions: Poitou- Charentes; Centre-Val de Loire; Bourgogne; Rhône-Alpes; Provence- Alpes-Côte d’Azur; Languedoc- Roussillon; Midi-Pyrénées; and Aquitaine; all south of the Loire River, where the geography, climate and tradition dictate the many varieties of cheeses crafted there. Fourteen French goat cheeses have the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) label, ensuring that the Chèvre has been made in a strictly designated geographical area using only local milk and traditional production techniques.

A Rich History Goats were one of the first-ever animals to be domesticated by humans, and we’ve been turning goat milk to cheese for nearly 8,000 years. The style we are familiar with today has its roots in the 8th Century, when Moors from Spain set out to occupy France. The armies of the Umayyad Caliphate needed to eat, and so their brought their goats along on their journey. Their military pursuits didn’t go so well, and they left their goats behind. The Loire River Valley farmers began caring for the goats and transforming their mlik into cheese. Over a millennium, they built up a Chèvre empire; 70 percent of France’s goat cheese is crafted in the Loire. “Thousands of unique things happened over time to bring us to this moment,” says Keenan. “Not a lot of ingredients can claim that.” It’s that generations-after-generations of tweaking, perfecting and recommitting to quality that makes for a truly unparalleled food. Like all well-made cheese, it all starts with the impeccable quality of the fresh milk. Although the industry has seen innovation, the cheesemaking basics remain unchanged. Starter cultures are added to raw or pasteurized goat’s milk, and rennet begins the gradual coagulation of the milk over one to two days. The solid curd is usually drained through a cloth and is made up of caseins—large mole- cules of milk proteins—and fat. The curd is then molded into whatever shape the cheesemaker chooses and salted. Some

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French goat cheeses, as they have influ- enced global cheesemaking,” Keenan says. “This is foundational cheese.”

So Many Cheeses, Such Little Time Where to start? French goat cheeses are anything but uniform—they represent diverse regions, styles, textures and tastes. They can be made from either raw or pasteurized milk (raw milk cheeses are available in the U.S. only if they are aged over 60 days). They can be crumbly or creamy; young or aged. Chèvre comes in discs and wheels, logs and pyramids, and even cute little buttons. Before marketing strategies were a thing, cheeses presented in different shapes, perhaps dusted in vegetable ash, rolled in herbs or pressed with a leaf, distinguished themselves as special in a crowded market. The cheese represented a particular microre- gion with its own sense of history and place. Fresh goat cheeses have a light, bright creaminess, and no rind to speak of. Those snow-white logs and spreadable tubs of Chèvre are young and lactic, with an acidic bite. Natural rind goat cheeses like Valençay, Crottin and Selles-sur-Cher develop their exteriors as they age over time. With some cheeses, powdered vegetable ash helps neutralize the cheese surface, so the correct molds can grow and create the rinds. Bloomy-rinded goats like Goat Brie, Goat Camembert, Bûcherondin and Chèvre d’Argental are coated with Penicillium candidum, and aged goat cheeses like Tomme de Chèvre and Bleu de Chèvre develop complex flavors over time. Instead of being intimidated by the dizzying array of cheese options, Keenan recommends feeling empowered to explore and have fun with cheeses that may be either familiar or new. cheeses are dusted with vegetable or oak they did not lower their quality stan- Some Favorites to Try charcoal. Some cheeses are eaten fresh, dards or disregard time-honored tradition. There’s no wrong place to begin when after being drained, while others are care- They’ve accommodated the realities of it comes to exploring the many possibilities fully matured. With age, cheeses become modern commerce, while staying true to of Chèvre. You can’t go wrong with asking firmer, denser, drier and more complex. their identity. your monger for a favorite find. Here are Around the year 1880, goat’s milk In the 1970s, with a revived interest in a few popular varieties, in no particular producers began working together in fresh and traditional foods, goat cheeses order: cooperatives, particularly in the Centre gained a renewed popularity and started • Crottin de Chavignol from Berry, and Poitou-Charentes regions. Dairies at to become sought-after around the world. in the Loire Valley, is a rustic little round this time were the first to produce goat French goat cheese has also laid a founda- of cheese which packs a wallop of tangy, cheeses from pasteurized milk. Even as tion for the much newer American artis- sharp flavor. It becomes drier and increas- many cheesemakers scaled up to meet anal cheesemaking movement, too. “We ingly intense with age, a bit gamy and larger demands for selling and exporting, should have respect and gratitude for incredibly delicious.

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• Tomme de Chevre Aydius, from the village of Aydius in the Béarnaise Pyrénées region of France, is made in the style of the sweet, smooth sheep’s milk wheels famous in the region, except with raw goat’s milk. It’s aged for about six months for a grassy, fruity and an almost (wonderfully) musty flavor. • The pyramid-shaped, ash-coated Valençay comes with a story: after Napoleon’s military defeat in Egypt, he demanded the pointed tops of the cheese be removed, hence the truncated top. The thin rind yields to a dense, piquant paste with mineral notes. • The tiny village of Saint-Maure, southeast of Paris, is famous for its goat cheeses—shaped like logs and pierced with a straw or stick from end to end. The straws began as a trick for keeping the fragile, young cheese logs from crumbling into oblivion, and continue because, well, they’re tradition. The texture of Saint- Maure de Touraine becomes firmer with age, bridging the crumbly/creamy divide. Balanced, lemony, tangy and classic, this AOC-protected cheese has been made for more than a thousand years. • Goat cheeses can be blue, too. From the Vendée, in western France, Bleu du Bocage is aged for several months, but retains a stunning delicateness. Its bright white paste is laced with a grayish-green blueing. It has a toasty, clean flavor, with a not-at-all overpowering blue saltiness at the finish.

Pairing, Cooking and Digging In Goat cheese is “an almost magical ingredient that’s both accessible and special at the same time—an everyday ingredient that never ceases to surprise,” notes Keenan. It’s also a nutritional heavy- weight, packed with calcium and protein, along with vitamins and minerals. It has less lactose and less sodium than cow’s milk cheeses and is easier to digest. Goat cheese is a “wonderful, fresh, the many culinary possibilities. When it comes to wines, acidic, miner- nutritious, delicious ingredient that can go Dig into some fresh Chèvre for break- al-driven and citrusy Sauvignon Blanc or into all the dishes you are making,” says fast, perhaps with sliced ripe peaches and Chenin Blanc pair beautifully with those Keenan. It can be a perfect way to add a generous drizzle of honey. French goats same qualities in Chèvre. Bubbly wine great flavor and depth to all the fresh vege- are great additions to scrambled eggs and can cut through the cheese’s richness with tables you have in your fridge, turning a frittatas. They add personality and depth its fizzy texture—try Crémant de Loire, simple salad into a satisfying meal. to mac and cheese, gratins and roasted sparkling wine from the Loire region. When Americans think goat cheese, veggies. Keenan suggests using fresh goat Natural wines and goat cheeses often we often think salad. And while a warm cheese in place of mascarpone in pretty meld beautifully too, as they share just a medallion of a goat log atop a bed of much any recipe, but perhaps especially bit of tanginess. Keenan also recommends peppery arugula or fresh Chèvre crum- in stuffed shells. Serve your favorite goat pucker-inducing naturally fermented sour bled into a bowl of beets and walnuts is a cheese for dessert with shards of dark beers and ciders, which echo Chèvre’s gorgeous thing, salads are just the start of chocolate and fresh berries. underlying funk. DB

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 45 DELI MEATS PROFIT FROM IN 2020’s Four Deli Meat Trends Looking ahead at a dynamic new year

BY CAROL BAREUTHER

ay the word ‘deli’ and for many it’s the classic image of deli sales during the 52 weeks ending Oct. 26, 2019, according to whole cured hams, long netted salamis and fat finger-like Nielsen Total U.S. Food data. sausages hanging invitingly over glass fronted cases that Yet, times are changing. comes to mind. Meats indeed are a cornerstone category “The retail landscape is shifting more today than it has over in this perishable department. Today, deli lunchmeats the last 50 years,” according to Eric Richard, education coordina- Srepresent nearly one-fifth, or 18.3 percent, of total supermarket tor at the International Dairy Deli Bakery Association (IDDBA),

PHOTO COURTESY OF COLUMBUS CRAFT MEATS

46 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Cibao.indd 1 12/16/19 1:20 PM DELI MEATS headquartered in Madison, WI. “Overall, I think we’ll continue to see an evolution of the deli, as operators seek to adapt to customers changing eating and lifestyles, and the deli meat category will certainly be a part of this.” Here are four ways to capitalize on trends in flavor, convenience, authenticity and creativity to help sell more deli meats in 2020.

1. FLAVORS: TRADITIONAL & TRENDY WINS In a Presidential Election year, the usual trends get skewed by the return to comfort food, says Jim Pierson, vice president of sales for the Pocino Foods Co., in City of Industry, CA. “We see the largest growth in salami and dried sausage, followed by ham and then turkey.” Turkey is the Number One deli meat by dollar sales, according to Nielsen Total U.S. Food data. “Our best-selling products include our Oven Roasted and Thanksgiving Style Roasted Turkey Breast products,” says Adam Grant, associate brand manager for retail deli for Butterball, headquartered in Garner, NC. “In 2019, we launched an extension to the Thanksgiving deli line with our Herb Roasted Thanksgiving Style Turkey Breast product, which features a topical herb seasoning that brings the savory flavor combination of holiday stuff- ing and oven roasted turkey to the table PHOTOS COURTESY OF BUTTERBALL year-round.” Ham ranks second in deli meat dol- in consumer response, and that southern Looking ahead, Mediterranean flavors lar sales, followed by salami, beef, chicken and southwestern flavors were most fre- are expected to grow in popularity, accord- and bologna. However, a different order quently preferred.” ing to the Food and Flavor Trends 2020 and emerges based on percent year over year More delis are offering pepper-coated Beyond Global Trend Survey, presented growth. That is, salami leads (+3.4 per- and uncured bacons, according to Megan by Les Dames d ’Escoffier International cent), followed by bologna (+3.2 percent), Dorsch, marketing manager for Nueske’s in October 2019. In addition, the survey beef (+2.7 percent), turkey (+1.3 per- Applewood Smoked Meats, in Wittenberg, suggests more exotic flavors from North cent) and ham (+0.8 percent). Lunchmeat WI. “This is in part because black pepper is Africa and the Middle East will gain atten- chicken experienced a 7.9 percent drop in a classic, but has also been a hot flavor this tion. This offers inspiration for not only the dollar sales. year and, in the case of our uncured bacon, manufacture of new products, but also However, as consumers’ flavor pref- because of consumers’ interest in alterna- trendy usage ideas for traditional deli meats. erences expand, there is a demand for tive ingredients.” “If supermarket delis do it right and offer unique, bold flavor offerings in the deli cat- Teriyaki and Hatch Chili are among both new flavors and high-quality classics, egory. These flavors include ethnic and ethnic flavors emerging, says Pocinothey’ll see huge growth as Millennials are regional flavors, sweet and spicy, and bold, Foods’ Pierson. “Pork belly continues to raising families and want to feed them well, say manufacturers. explode due to being Keto-friendly, since but have limited time for meal prep,” says “Our team is leveraging recent research ours is minimally processed and can be Nueske’s Dorsch. in our flavor innovation strategy for the easily repurposed from barbecue to teri- bulk deli,” says Hilary Gerard, senior mar- yaki sauce. Other deli meat best-sellers are 2. CONVENIENCE: THE NEED keting manager, Cargill Protein North Pastrami and Pepperoni. Pastrami is being TO FEED TIME-STARVED America, based in Wichita, KS. “Two key repurposed into new recipes, for example, SHOPPERS takeaways from that work are to prioritize with a chimichurri sauce. Pepperoni contin- The demand for convenience is driv- ham and chicken varieties for flavor innova- ues to be a nice spicy and flavorful addition ing change in today’s deli landscape. That tion, as these proteins performed strongest to any sandwich.” said, one of the biggest trends in 2020 will

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market research group, GfK. “We’ve seen delis begin stocking more of our bulk, traditional snack sausages right in the case, like Landjaeger—a rich, peppery Alpine-style snacking sausage, Beef Sticks, All-Beef Summer Sausage, and other shelf-stable sausage sticks that fit the desire for snacks and creating platters at home,” says Nueske’s Dorsch. New premium snacking kits sold under Cargill’s Castle Wood Reserve brand contain rolled deli meat paired with a unique cheese and sides, like dark chocolate dried cherries or yogurt-covered granola clusters. For snacking or entertaining, Piller’s Fine Foods’ 6-ounce Black Kassel-brand charcuterie trio includes the Brantford, Ontario-based company’s signature-shaped

PHOTO COURTESY OF NUESKE’S salamis: heart-shaped D’Amour, square/ diamond-shaped mustard seed and flower-shaped Old Forest. “The artisanal shapes lend themselves to elevated entertaining,” says Stephanie Eagan, director of marketing. “The retail- friendly trio is shelf stable, offering greater merchandising flexibility within the deli department or other areas of the store. The peggable trio can be displayed in or out of refrigeration in its retail-ready display box, baskets and more.”

3. AUTHENTICITY: TELL ‘EM & SELL ‘EM Transparency is a huge selling point in delis today, according to the IDDBA’s Richard. “This encompasses everything from telling customers what’s in a product to how it’s made. It’s an especially import- likely continue to be grab and go, accord- deli meat sales. ant point for deli meats, since these are ing to Butterball’s Grant. “With consumers “Grab-and-go solutions like pre-pack- processed products.” looking for quick and convenient options, aged sliced deli meats reduce labor for the A cleaner label product is becom- numerous retailers are beginning the tran- retailer and allow shoppers to easily take ing more paramount and asked for, more sition of converting their dedicated bulk, from the case without waiting at the deli than ever before, as the average shopper service deli space into grab and go displays. counter. Plus, there is more interest from is becoming more educated, manufactur- This is leading to volume and dollar sales Millennials and Gen Xers in the snacking, ers say. shifting from bulk deli to grab and go.” grab and go and entertaining categories, “The deli category hasn’t experienced Bulk, or deli meats sliced to order, still while Boomers are more likely to shop the much growth in the ABF (antibiotic free) make up the majority (60 percent) of cat- full-service deli counter.” or organic product space, but natural and egory sales versus pre-packaged (25 Snacking and entertaining are indeed clean-label, premium products have grown. percent) and grab and go (14 percent), huge trends. In fact, nearly half (47 per- To respond to this, we offer premium deli according to IRI market advantage data for cent) of U.S. consumers snack everyday, products with no nitrates or nitrites, no the 52 weeks ending Aug. 11, 2019, as pub- according to the State of the Specialty added hormones or steroids, made from lished in the IDDBA’s State of Deli Meat & Food Industry research, 2019-2020 edi- whole turkey breast, and all our products Prepared Foods report, released September tion, by the New York, NY-headquartered bear the American Humane Certified 2019. However, bulk deli meat dollar sales Specialty Food Association. Plus, half (50 seal,” says Butterball’s Grant. decreased ($163 million) over the last year, percent) of Americans entertain guests at For shoppers looking for a ‘better for while pre-packaged and grab-and-go both home at least once a month, and nearly you’ option, Piller’s Fine Foods is launch- increased, $34 and $192 million, respec- one-quarter (21 percent) do so daily or ing a 4-ounce All Natural Charcuterie Trio. tively. The result is that convenience weekly, according to results of a 2017 pub- This package offers three uncured sala- formats account for nearly 40 percent of lished online survey released by German mis—Double Smoked, Spicy Hungarian

50 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 DELI MEATS and Black Peppercorn. All three flavors adds. “Helping a deli customer choose 2019 Flavor Consumer Trend Report, from are minimally processed and contain no maybe three good salamis, a pâté per- the Chicago-based market research group, artificial ingredients, flavors or colors; no haps, two to three cheeses, a jam, berries Technomic. preservatives; no nitrates and nitrates or grapes and maybe some dark chocolate. “Deli meats can be used for many more added, and are made with pork raised with That can quickly add up to a $75 to $100 applications, including salad and soup top- no added hormones. basket ring.” pers, salad kits, in-store made upscale Beyond the ingredient label, 93 percent Both upscale sandwiches and trays lend lunches or snacks and as a pizza topping. of consumers think it’s important for brands themselves to customization. For example, we’re seeing an uptick in mor- to provide more detailed information about Seventy-two percent of consumers tadella on pizzas. The new usage options what is in a food and how it’s made, accord- today expect restaurants to accommodate for deli meats are endless,” says Columbus’ ing to The Transparency Imperative 2018, customization requests, according to the Inada. DB published by the Vienna, VA-based Food Marketing Institute in partnership with Label Insight, headquartered in Chicago. What’s more, 74 percent of shoppers in 2018, compared to just 39 percent in 2016, said they’d switch from their usually purchased brand to one that provides more information than just what’s on the label. “We have a growing handful of deli customers that have maps showing the locations of all their product suppliers on the wall—they’re a fun graphic to look at and familiar maps, like those of the U.S. or even of particular states, engage customers on a personal level. Maps give shoppers a way to relate to their purchases. It’s just such an effective, memorable way to show where food comes from,” says Nueske’s Dorsch.

4. CREATIVITY: SANDWICHES 2.0 & BEYOND With the maturing Millennial generation able to spend more money than the Baby Boomers, the need for ‘something new’ more often is important for the retailer in providing new options, says Pocino Foods’ Pierson. “For example, take any sandwich and put it on a pretzel bun. Slice your roast beef into a chipotle Philly cheese sandwich.” Restaurant-quality ways to use deli meats are one reason why Columbus Craft Meats offers high-quality whole muscle but not flavored meats, according to Evan Inada, charcuterie and partnerships director for Hayward, CA-based Columbus Craft Meats, a brand of the Hormel Foods Corp., headquartered in Austin, MN. “Shoppers want quality first in their deli meats, then they want to know what they can do with it. For example, five years ago no one really knew what to do with roast pork loin. Now, deli operators can cross merchandise the pork with, say, a Havarti or Brie, and apple chutney and the consumer can make sandwiches like what they could order out at a restaurant for double or more the price.” Charcuterie is another big opportunity to upsell deli meats and much more, Inada

DEC/JAN 2020 DELI BUSINESS 51 Bayonne Ham: When Historic Know- How Meets Quality

Bayonne Ham is the result of a product, and Bayonne Ham has always flavors, balanced saltiness and thousand years of tradition and been transparent about its process. delicate aromas. know-how, valuing and respecting the product’s production process. From Arrival of the legs: Producers of Sampling: Experts test hams and being served at the tables of histori- Bayonne Ham receive fresh legs their taste at the end of the curing cal figures, such as King Henri IV and from authorized slaughterhouses. period. On average, it takes nine French author Rabelais, to becoming to 12 months to make a Bayonne the first French product to be awarded Salting: Fresh hams are rubbed Ham. the Protected Geographical Indica- with salt from Salies de-Béarn tion in 1998, Bayonne Ham is one of salty spring water. They are then The “Bayonne” seal: The process’ Europe’s most acclaimed hams. covered with a thick layer of salt final step is the application of the and placed in salting rooms. Basque cross or “Lauburu” with THE PGI DESIGNATION, A SEAL OF a hot branding iron to all Bayonne GUARANTEE AND RECOGNITION Resting: Hams are suspended in Hams that have respected the The European Union created the Pro- a room where they are dried at requirements at every step of the tected Geographical Indication (PGI) low temperature in artificially-cre- production process. in 1992, a sign of quality that aims ated winter conditions. to guarantee the origin of products, which come from regions of history Drying: Hams are hung in drying Visit Bayonne Ham at and tradition. For Bayonne hams, the rooms, where the long maturing Winter Fancy Food Show PGI status means two things: pigs process begins gradually en- at the must have been born and bred in hancing their flavors, aromas and French Pavillion Southwest France and curing must tenderness. Booth #752 take place within the Adour River basin. “Pannage”: The process of applying a mixture of pork fat EIGHT STEPS TO CREATING AN and flour to the ham’s muscular

AUTHENTIC PRODUCT parts, making for a gentler drying the views of author only and is his/her sole responsibility. campaign represents The content of this promotion for any use that may be made of the information it contains. Commission does not accept any responsibility The European Bayonne Ham is produced using an process during the long maturing eight-step traditional method from period. the arrival of fresh pig legs to the branding of the Bayonne Ham “Laubu- Maturing: This step allows the ru” cross. Each one of these steps is ham to acquire all its qualities essential to delivering a high-quality and reveal its personality: mild

About the Bayonne Ham Council The Bayonne Ham Council was created in 1991 to promote the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) Jambon de Bayonne, which was formalized on October 7th, 1998 by European decree. Organized as an Interprofes- sional Body, it gathers every actor involved in the production of Bayonne Hams including 950 pig farms, 39 livestock producers, 23 cutting plants and 30 curing units, all located in Southwest France. Visit http://www.jambon-de-bayonne.com/en/ for more information.

Maison Dujambon.indd 1 12/13/19 2:58 PM Maison - Bayonne.indd 1 12/13/19 2:59 PM BLAST FROM THE PAST The Truth Behind La Traversetolese’s Parmigiano Reggiano Historic Logo Since 2006, people in the U.S. and knew that the Nazis were coming, thus all over the rest of the world have been they all hid inside the city hall for several savoring, with great pride, chunks of pre- days. Fortunately, and against all odds, mium White Gold Parmigiano Reggiano– they survived. winner of the Super Gold medal at the Upon exiting the city hall, the first thing World Cheese Awards. Aside from being everyone saw, sitting tall above them, was one of the most delicious Parmigianos the town symbol—a statue of the Winged out there, the White Gold’s creamery, La Victory, which dated back to World War I. Traversetolese, carries a piece of Italian his- Since that day, the Mayor of Traversetolo tory behind its iconic winged victory logo. declared that all the town’s businesses In fact, if you look at a wheel of White could, and indeed should, have the Winged Gold, you can notice it, stamped on its rind. Victory logo as a symbol of good luck and Here’s why. perseverance. At the end of World War II, as the The consortium of Parmigiano American Allies troops were liberating Reggiano specially granted permission to Italy, the Nazi soldiers had to retaliate back La Traversetolese to have an official stamp to Germany. Brutal beasts that they were, of the winged victory for the wheels of it was common practice during their retreat cheese. to stop in every village, pillaging it and killing Ambrosi’s Master Cheesemaker admires a All is well that ends well, and in this its inhabitants. The people of Traversetolo half wheel of White Gold Parmigiano Reggia- case, an icon was born. DB no at Slow Food’s Cheese event in Bra. Blast From The Past is a regular feature of Deli Business. We welcome submissions of your old photos, labels or advertisements along with a brief description of the photo. Please send material to: Editor, Deli Business, P.O. Box 810217, Boca Raton, FL 33481-0217 or email [email protected]. For more information contact us at (561) 994-1118.

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COMPANY PAGE# CATEGORY PHONE American Cheese Society...... 35...... Trade Association...... 502-583-3783 BelGioioso Cheese, Inc...... 17...... Cheese...... 877-863-2123 Campofrio Food Group America...... 13...... Deli Meats...... 804-520-7775 Cibao Meat Products...... 47...... Hispanic Deli Meats...... 718-993-5072 Country Fresh Inc...... 28-29...... Food Solutions...... 281-453-3300 Don’s Prepared Foods...... 20-21...... Breakfast Medley...... 888-321-3667 EU Greek Feta...... 37...... Feta Cheese...... 302198847190 European Union...... 49...... Cheese & Prosciutto...... 646-218-6025 Fratelli Beretta USA...... 55...... Italian Specialties...... 201-438-0723 George E. DeLallo Co...... 56...... Olives...... 800-433-9100 Gourmet Foods...... 7...... Cheese...... 404-954-7698 Grana Padano...... 18...... Grana Padano Cheese...... 39-0309109811 Ken’s Foods Inc...... 11...... Salad Dressing...... 800-633-5800 Lactalis...... 41...... Roquefort Cheese...... 212-758-6666 Maison du Jambon Bayonne...... 52-53...... Bayonne Ham Montchevre-Betin, Inc...... 15...... Goat Cheese...... 310-541-3520 Nueske’s Hillcrest Farm’s Meats...... 24...... Smoked Meats...... 715-253-4006 Piller Sausages & Delicatessens Ltd...... 51...... Deli Meats...... 800-265-2628 Pomi USA...... 2...... Tomatoes...... 732-541-4115 Refrigerated Foods Association...... 33...... Trade Association...... 770-303-9905 Reser’s Fine Foods...... 27...... Sides...... 800-333-6431 Sally Sherman Foods...... 5...... Salads...... 914-664-6262 Volpi Foods...... 9...... Italian Meats...... 800-288-3439

54 DELI BUSINESS DEC/JAN 2020 Fratelli.indd 1 12/13/19 10:32 AM DeLallo.indd 1 12/13/19 10:20 AM