March 2008 NSS News, March 2008 11 12 NSS News, March 2008 a Trip to Guatemala in Two Weeks

June 20-22, 2008—55th Annual Cave Capers, scheduled to be Dr. Hazel Barton of the University USA hosted by the Central Indiana Grotto at the of Northern Kentucky. For more information, March 15, 2008—NSS Board of Governors Doezema Farm in Milltown, IN. Join us for great contact Richard Rhinehart, coordinator, nss@ Meeting – Oak Ridge Civic Center, Oak Ridge, caving, swimming, music, cookout, and fun. Go rockymountaincaving.com or visit online at www. Tennessee. Hosted by East Tennessee Grotto. to www.cavecapers.com or call Ron Adams 317- ColoradoCaves.org/SpeleoSeminar Details will be provided at http://www.caves. 490-7727 –NSS Convention and 15th org/grotto/etg/. Questions can be directed to July 19‑26, 2009 British Columbia Cave Rescue International Congress of Speleology, sponsored [email protected] July 5-12, 2008— Training Seminar in Cave Rescue Organization by the NSS, in Kerrville, Texas. For more March 29, 2008—Karst Waters Institute award and Techniques, Gold River (Vancouver Island), information contact [email protected] or dinner honoring Dr. Thomas Kunz. For registration British Columbia, Canada. Covers subjects visit the web site: www.ics2009.us and details go to www.karstwaters.org comparable to NCRC National Seminars July 26‑30, 2010–NSS Convention in Essex March 29- 30, 2008—2nd Annual Caves of - see article on the 2006 BCCR Seminar in Junction, Vermont. Carter Caves Restoration Camp, Carter Caves NSS News, March 2007, p 25. Details and State Resort Park, Olive Hill, Kentucky. Hosted registration information are available from the INTERNATIONAL by Carter Caves SRP and the ESSO Grotto of BCCR Training website, http://www.cancaver. Sept. 2008—XIII International Symposium on the NSS .For more info see www.essogrotto. ca/bccr/BCCRtrain.htm, or through through Phil Vulcanospeleology, Jeju Island, Korea. Contact com or contact Jonathon Lewis @ jonlewis@ Whitfield (NSS 12901) at [email protected]. Kyung Sik Woo: [email protected] . zoomnet.net Participation is limited to 30 and early registration 2010—XIV International Symposium on May 3, 2008—Come join the Birmingham is recommended Vulcanospeleology, Australlia. Further information Grotto in celebration of our 50th Anniversary at July 17-20, 2008—Karst-O-Rama—The Greater will be supplied later. Horsepens 40 (NE of Birmingham on I-59). We’re Cincinnati Grotto invites you to attend the 2008 planning caving trips on Saturday followed by a Karst-O-Rama at the Great Saltpetre Cave catered banquet and program starting at 6:00 Preserve in Mount Vernon, KY. For additional Scholarships p.m. Camping will be available at the park and info go to the www.karstorama.com there are motels nearby. Reservations required. August 11-15, 2008—NSS Convention in Lake Doctorate: $15,000 Contact Edna Caudle 205-647-2221 or ednawc@ City, Florida. See the evolving convention website bellsouth.net. at http://nss2008.com/ for basic information. Masters: $5,000 May 3-4, 2008— Mammoth Cave Restoration For moreinformation contact Buford Pruitt, Undergraduate: $5,000 Camp, Mammoth Cave National Park, [email protected] (352-275-1319). Kentucky. Other dates for this year include: October 25, 2008—Rocky Mountain www.caveconservancyofvirginia.org August 3rd thru 9th (Week Camp) SpeleoSeminar, University of Colorado at Boulder. November 1st & 2nd (Weekend Camp) Sponsored in part by the Colorado Grotto and the Telephone: 804-798-4893 Signup is required and space is limited. For more Cave of the Winds. A day of multimedia talks information and to signup for camps visit www. regarding caves, caving and cave science. Free. Cave Conservancy Foundation restoremammoth.com or contact camp directior Open to the public. Evening keynote speaker Roy Vanhoozer @ [email protected] May 3-10, 2008—National Cave Rescue Commission Cave Rescue Operations and Management Seminar at Camp Skyline in Mentone, Alabama. Extensive classroom instruction and e fieldwork in all phases of cave rescue including id w ” 0 underground environment, vertical rescue, 1 t n hauling systems, extrication techniques, medical ri p k management, communication systems, and the c a organization and management of cave rescue B operations. Check out www.caves.org/io/ncrc/ or contact Jane Morgan, at caverjanpet@comcast. net to register or for more information. May 23—26, 2008—NSS-CDS Workshop: The Future of Cave Diving - Marianna, FL. See http:// nsscdsworkshop.org/Workshop2008/ for more details. Art by May 23—26, 2008—37th Annual Kentucky Speleofest, Hosted by The Louisville Grotto, at the Jerry Wallace ever-improving and shady Lone Star Preserve, Hart County, Kentucky. Kim Gentry Chairperson: Limited Edition [email protected], phone: 502 538-7665, or for neneral info: [email protected]. Web site: www.caves.org/grotto/louisvillegrotto/ NSS T-shirt June 5-8, 2008—First ever joint SERA and Spring VAR will be hosted by the Appalachian This handsome 7-color artwork is by Jerry Wallace, winner Cave Conservancy and Mountain Empire Grotto of the 2006 NSS Convention T-shirt Salon, and printed full 10” at Bristol Campground across from Bristol International Raceway in Bristol, Tennessee. wide on the back of a high quality “yellow haze” cotton shirt. Come join us for caving, field trips, hiking, and social events. Check caves.org/grotto/meg, email These collectible shirts will be on sale for one year only, while [email protected]. supplies last. Available now for just $16 Moving? Please send address changes to the Get yours today! NSS Office: 2813 Cave Ave., Huntsville, AL 35810-4431 or log onto www.caves. To order, visit www.nssbookstore.org org/info/changeinfo.shtml. or call (256)-852-1300.

 NSS News, March 2008 POSTMASTERS OR MEMBERS: Send address changes to National Speleological NSS News Society, 2813 Cave Ave., Huntsville, AL 35810-4431. March 2008 NSS EXECUTIVE COMMITTEE Volume 66 Number 3 President Bill Tozer 515 W Burgundy St, Apt 733 Littleton, CO 80129 720-344-9515 [email protected] Operations VP Administrative VP Cheryl Jones Ray Keeler Special Issue: Caving in Guatemala 1865 Old Meadow Rd Apt 202 1051 Solar Road NW Cavers of the Caribbeaner: Quest for Xilbalba...... 4 McLean, VA 22102-1997 Albuquerque, NM 87107 703-442-8499 [email protected] Captain Mike Frazier and Mud-Donna Renee [email protected] 623-523-1760 Back-to-back Adventures South Of The Border...... 9 Executive VP Secretary/Treasurer Philip Rykwalder Gordon Birkhimer Peri Frantz 2807 Hogan Court 16345 Englewood Ave. Falls Church, VA 22043 Los Gatos, CA 95032-4621 Adventure Caving in Guatemala...... 19 (703) 573-4653 (home) 408-356-8506 Dave Bunnell [email protected] [email protected] National Speleological Society Office 2813 Cave Ave, Huntsville, AL 35810-4431 Tel: (256)852-1300; FAX (256)851-9241 e-mail: [email protected]; web: www.caves.org Please contact the office for address changes or back issues.

NSS NEWS EDITOR Dave Bunnell P.O. Box 879 Angels Camp, CA 95222 [email protected]

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ADVERTISING In the Media...... 17 Letters...... 29 Complete advertising information, including ad costs, deadlines, and guidelines for preparation, are on the NSS wesite at: www.caves. Underground Update...... 24 Society News...... 30 org/pub/nssnews/ads.html Payment info, contact: Reading...... 27 Classified Ads...... 30 Advertising Accountant: Bert Ashbrook News and Notes...... 29 Salon Gallery...... 31 107 Avonbrook Road, Wallingford, PA 19086 (610) 627-2378 evenings [email protected]

DEPARTMENT EDITORS Conservation NEWSletter Review Front cover: Jim & Val Hildreth-Werker Bernie Szukalski Entrance to Cueva Sacmoc, a newly explored cave in Guatemala, as detailed in PO Box 207 1224 Mira Monte Dr.. Hillsboro, NM 88042-0207 Redlands, CA 92373-6542 this issue. The waterfall is about 45 meters high. Photo by David Unger. (575) 895-5050 [email protected] [email protected] spelean spotlight Back cover: In the Media Bill Steele Top: Mike Frazier ascending the white cliff above Cueva Sacmoc. Photo by Charley Sharon Faulkner [email protected] Savvas. 1311 2nd Ave NE Cullman, AL 35055 Safety & Techniques [email protected] Kurt Waldron Left: Matt Oliphant negotiates a climb in Cueva Sacmoc. Photo by David Unger. Technology reviews [email protected] vacant Right: Mayan artifact, possibly an Incense Burner, found in one of the caves in the Guatemalan highlands. Photo by Charley Savvas Deadline: The NSS News is mailed the last week of the month preceding the date of publication. Ads, articles and announcements should be sent to the NSS News, Box 879, Angels Camp, CA 95222 by the 15th of the month, six weeks before the month of issue (e.g., material for the March issue needs to be in by January 15). The NSS News (ISSN 0027-7010) is published monthly with membership in the NSS, thereby receiv- the Members Manual and American Caving Accidents published as This month the News is packaged additional issues by the National Speleological Society, Inc, 2813 Cave with the American Caving Accidents ing the NSS News every month and the Ave, Huntsville, AL 35810-4431. Periodicals Postage Paid at Huntsville, Journal of Cave and Karst Studies Al and additional mailing offices. Tel: (256)852-1300; FAX (256)851- special issue, partly in an attempt to 9241, e-mail: [email protected], web: www.caves.org save money on the latter, which the NSS three times a year. Regular membership in the NSS is $36 per year. See http://caves. hopes to make a yearly publication. Apologies to President Bill Tozer, org/info/membertypes.shtml for descriptions of other membership categories. Subscriptions to the NSS News are $23 per year; individual If you are a Basic Member, you whose column stated last month that copies are $1.50 each. Contact the Huntsville office for membership normally would not receive the NSS Basic Members were receiving that applications, subscriptions, orders, or for replacement of issues missing or damaged in the mail. Moving? Please report changes of address to News as well, but we hope you enjoy this issue. The ACA wasn’t ready to go with the office promptly or online at: www.caves.org/info/changeinfo.shtml freebie issue, funded by the Membership that issue as we’d thought it might when Copyright ©2008 Committee. Our hope is that you will we went to press. by the National Speleological Society, Inc. like what you see and upgrade to a full Dave

NSS News, March 2008  Cavers of the Caribbeaner: Quest for Xilbalba Captain Mike Frazier and Mud-Donna Renee “Yes I am a pirate, 200 years too late. The cannons don’t thunder. There’s nothing to plunder. I’m an over forty victim of fate.” Jimmy Buffet Matt Oliphant

Gather ye round me hearties whilst I spin ye a tale of fortune on the high seas. On me honor as a buccaneer all I say be true and right lest I spill me sea chest for the taking. ‘Twas mid day we first cast off with our bilges full. “Weigh anchor and heave away!” I shouted to me first mate, Mud-Donna. It was in no time at all we had gained our sea legs. A mighty Chinook filled our sails, pulling us southward toward the warm fertile waters of the Caribbean. Our first disembarking of note was at the port of Veracruz in the Gulf of Mexico. Many pieces of eight were spent on rum and other necessities we would use to continue our journey. We had previously contracted a Letter of Marque* from the mighty Mazatecan Navy in exchange for certain aforementioned provisions. To exchange these goods we must first travel leeward up the Río Santo Domingo, through the rain forest of the Cerro Rabón. It was near the base of an enormous cliff face that we followed a fork of the river upward to a grand cascade. Me first mate at once scaled it without show of fear and declared it to be pouring forth from the mouth of a huge portal called by local Indians the Uruapan. It was near here we hired a guide who told us of another cavern nearby. This cavern was rumored to possess a map that would lead us to the treasure of Xilbalba*. Intrigued, we followed this man up a narrow jungle trail. Shiver me timbers! A serpent suddenly appeared on the path. This beast was nearly a fathom* long with a yellow beard. I drew me cutlass from its Nancy Pistole at the waterfall emerging from Cueva Sacmoc scabbard and quickly dispatched it much to the awe and delight of me crew. Soon after Royal Navy. It was here we assembled a we reached the well-hidden mouth of the We could depend on each other in the dark- great and motley crew. The first I’ll dare to cavern. Sure as the chow is on me chinee est of storms. mention are the Cueveros Extraordenarios: we were provided with no map at all. I soon three Mexican born pirates who went by cursed the name of Davey Jones and swore The portal of El Chorreadero the aliases of Eloy, Wicho, and Jorge. We that if he were standing before me right then, El Chorreadero cave was said by many also commissioned Rigger, who is known I would have hoisted the pirate’s red flag, and a sailor to be a portal between our world for his skills in setting lanyards, his first mate would have taken his very eye for his deceit and Xilbalba. With the full sun on the open Mappy, known for her navigation skills, two and treachery. I ‘ear eye patches are cheap water, 11 brave hearties made our way to cheerful Canadian buccaneers, who called if ye got connections. the entrance with a couple of lengths of themselves Frogeye and Puck, Graybeard Our business now complete the crew lanyards. In turn the crew began traversing the wanderer, Smokie the climber, and finally regressed to our vessel with the Letter of the wet tunnel and then began to lower Lucky Luey. I’d plundered with all but one Marque*. With great luck in hunting down themselves, two at a time down the first verti- of them before. This young lass called Puck the path of our bold adventures in Oaxaca, cal pitch. The water flows in this cave form soon proved her battle worth and bravery Mexico, we have come to the port of Nelita deep pools, which flow down cascades into in the portal of El Chorreadero. As for the in Chiapas, a port known by all good blood- the next awaiting pool. We soon began to rest, I already knew them all to be hearty. thirsty pirates as a haven for the Cavers cheerfully and at times not so cheerfully fling

 NSS News, March 2008 ourselves from the ledges of the cascades into convinced me self I didn’t sail to Guatemala mate Mud-Donna: the deep pools below. As we sank lower into to dig for me treasure. I was beginning to the cave, the leaps became bigger. Some retreat when Shiver me Timbers! Rocks from 4/12/07 We left our remote alpine crewmembers chose to make use of a lanyard above began to give way. I did me best to climate and headed down the mountain that while others managed to catapult themselves avoid them but one came down upon me evening. Bad idea. The only gas that could be from cliffs with heights reaching around 5 hand nearly leaving me a stump for a hook. found was sold to us in dirty plastic milk jugs, or 6 fathoms (that’s around thirty feet to As the blood surged from me hand I yelled which we poured into the tank ourselves. you landlubbers). At times there were long upward towards me first mate, “Mud-Donna, We spent the night dodging small boulders swims and a big borehole was encountered, are you looking to commit mutiny?” “I have and cracks that swallowed compact cars and but it is the jumping for which this portal is not moved,” was the reply. Me hearties, didn’t even burp. For decades Mother Nature best remembered. For 11 long hours the show no grimace, it was only a mere flesh had performed the only road maintenance ragtag crew of scallywags worked their way wound. using mudslides and earthquakes. I recalled downward until one shouted “Land Ho!” The We sailed on like this for days exploring the rusted-out bus frames at various points many swifts that now called out verified this several more holes but finding no portals, along the bottom of the ravines on the ride rumor was true. Soon thereafter we were though one finally went about 100 fathoms up. During our seven-hour trip downward, standing on the shore on the lower end of the before ending in a mud lake. Near another I imagined over and over the terrifying end portal known as El Chorreadero, followed shaft, which we called Cinco Minutos, rocks of the screaming occupants as they plum- by drinking rum well into the night. Having were hurled at Mappy by a local fisherwoman meted over the cliffs during the day. We safely passed through this grand portal, the who claimed that we were on her father’s were attempting the same descent in a two- remaining crew was more determined than waters. wheel drive 1978 Chinook motor home at ever to reach Xilbalba. We weighed anchor night. Sleep was out of the question. The and set sail towards Guatemala to find adven- The port of San Juan Ixcoy only haven awaiting us at the end of this ture and our treasure. We were getting short now on supplies. abominable journey was Playa Grande, a Only the chicken tongues remained (it takes disgusting, horrid, and unbearably hot little Xilbalba’s Elusive Dream a lot of them to feed a crew like ours). We armpit of a town. We shelled out the equiva- Our first port in Guatemala was at decided to set sail for the port of San Juan lent of three dollars each for the privilege of Huehuetenango, where we met up with a Ixcoy. It was holy day in Ixcoy, so street fights being mattress-braised (a cooking method few more ole sea dogs: Orion, Lady Eve, and drunkenness were the rule--we blended which requires meat to be simmered slowly Shifty, and the Brit. Orion is a Guatemalan in quite nicely. I only had to pull me sword for long periods of time in small amounts of caver that is cool as the night skies. Lady once during the entire night when a drunk liquid until just the right degree of tenderness Eve is a caving lady in every sense--caver’s sailor pounded on me ship. I am not sure the is obtained). Although counting cockroaches royal blood boils in her veins. Shifty is a well- drunk even realized that I was disrobed, as his in our room was entertaining, it did not known, hard charging, portal light engineer. eyes were on the waving blade of me sword prevent us from leaving skid marks in the He knows his way around the circuit plank. and his ears filled with the profanities of an parking lot at daybreak. The Brit--he has sailed these waters some ole sea dog. He said only “gracias, gracias,” say forever. He knows well every port and and promptly departed. 4/13: A policia gordo headed us off at had been the first of our kind to pass the I awoke to find me entire crew locked the town border and attempted to extort “a Cerro Rabón. He also was among the first behind a large steel door. Seems rum had municipal fee” from us. I promptly took out group who passed through the portal of El flowed here as well. Curious was their the video camera and began filming while Chorreadero. dilemma. Like any self-respecting pirate, I To avoid suspicion from local sailors we asked them for pieces of eight for me to free divided our numbers in two parts and began them. As the true scalawags that they are, to scour the high karst seas. In the next they refused, preferring to deal with the jailer few weeks we found many a short portal personally before parting with their loot. We including one named Turkey Waddle, not laughed heartily then soon after boarded our

far from the source of the Papajau River. vessels and departed for the port of Soloma, Editor’s archives The fog was often thick like blood soup. So where we were to meet up with some more thick it was that I scraped me hull on another scalawags who heard we were soon docking vessel perched upon a large wave. We passed there: the mighty Black Beard the Greek and through Puente de Tierra, a T-shaped portal Flip Skywalker. with logs jammed inside. A large cliff face revealed a huge hole where access had to The seas near Soloma be gained by the use of a long lanyard. We Again we split the crew up as to not be used this method on several others as well. noticed. With me hearty mate Shifty and his Days pass swiftly. broad smile, the two of us scoured a three- ‘Twas one of these forsaken places me kilometer sinkhole near an island he named first mate discovers in which I nearly met Camp Stump. Together we searched the Oztotl* personally. It was dank but stable high karst seas, but nothing was discovered looking. I lowered me self downward into more than three or four fathoms long. The its grizzly darkness. The rocky floor sloped local sailors spoke tales of distant treasure downward towards a light wind which blew but our priority was to get Lady Eve safely to in me face. I worked me self down the slope another port to catch a return ship. We sailed until the ceiling nearly met the rubble floor. well into the darkness of the night. I could see the passage continue in the Me tongue grows weary and dry, but One of the numerous cascades in El same manner. Still, after a bit of poking, I the tale continues in the words of me first Chorreadero.

NSS News, March 2008  Mike laughed and pointed at our tourist marked trails of lesser tourists and was itch- borders all night. Later, we ate bad Chinese sticker, explaining we had already paid all ing to use his old machete and new GPS. food in a dumpy downtown area crawling necessary taxes. We also mentioned that we I followed as he led us deeper through the with a wide variety of creepy fellows. All were going to head to the city with our foot- middle of a jungle. After about 90 minutes of promised to guard the Chinook with their age and report him to government officials. hand-to-hand combat with leaves and vines, lives. Great. After dinner we parked on a The slovenly cop lost all interest in gaining he stopped to use his GPS. The thick canopy baseball diamond and the three of us slept in a little extra cash and pointed out to us the above made it impossible to connect with a the camper. What a joy,especially for Randy, nearest road out of his district, which we satellite. I watched the slow realization of a who got the aisle on the floor. happily took. Eat our Chinooky dust. bad decision crossing his face. We were lost Hours later we reached a paved road. and stood a good chance of spending the 4/18: Randy and I insisted on making I tried not to let anyone see the tears in my night in the jungle. Visions of killer bees, a quick stop to buy Marie Sharps Belizean eyes. Later that day we visited Cueva del Rey jaguars, and ticked-off park officials crept Hot Sauce for friends and family before cave Marcos, and left with spoils: a cheesy T-shirt into my mind during the ordeal. I said little, exploration. Our first destination was Río and keychain. Worth a peek if you get a but continued to follow the Captain as he Frio, a huge river cave with a beach inside. chance. Yes, it really is a one-hour tour: ten endeavored to get us back on track. My Sweet. Cool water, sandy private beach and minutes to cross the stream to get back to patience and faith were rewarded because he no sunburn. This was one of my favorite the formations, and fifty minutes wandering eventually picked up a signal. About an hour caves by far. We took a quick look inside a around one room asking, “Is this the end of later we stumbled out of the trees and onto a few other nearby caves and then had to rush the tour? Is there more?” tour trail, sweaty, scratched, bug-bitten, and to get Randy to the airport. In his hurry, our with bits of branches and leaves stuck in our Captain ripped out the badly placed phone 4/14: We visited another tourist cave hair. We tried hard to appear nonchalant lines of an entire neighborhood with his near Muqb’ilha’, part of the Candelaria and blend in with the rest of the tourist, but side view mirror. We arrived at the airport system, and had a wonderful tour led by a the machete was a bit out of place and my precisely five minutes before the scheduled twelve-year-old girl. She swore her name begging for water didn’t help. flight, but Randy was refused entrance. He was “Candelaria” and chatted happily about tried pleading, flirting, and righteous indig- the local plant and animal life in Spanish as 4/16: For breakfast I made pancakes nation in order to change their minds but we trotted through the underbrush with our for the employees in charge of collecting with no luck. Thumb sucking and curling up innertubes. The trip down the slow-moving camping fees, a poorly veiled attempt at a on the tiles in the fetal position finally did river was relaxing and beautiful. When we bribe. The gardener showed us how to prop- the trick. We waved good-bye to our good finally reached the entrance of the large cave erly skin a coconut. Our good friend Randy friend as they hurried him onto the plane, we could have kicked ourselves for not taking Macan arrived at our campsite. Dinner, threw in his bag, and slammed the door the video camera, but still had a great time. drinks, and merry-making followed. behind him. It’s definitely worth checking out. We parked at a marina for the night. Back on the road we were waylaid by 4/17: Today I stayed in camp and It was a beautiful location on a beach with a band of female orphans who threatened chipped goat dung off the Chinook and privacy, great ocean views, and sand fleas. to cry unless we bought pastries from them. swabbed the decks while the guys set out We awoke with hundreds of bites. Mike had We were no match for their wily ways and to explore Tikal further. Mike dropped his ten of them. they left with our money. machete into a well, jumped in after it, and Poorer but wiser, we arrived at the Tikal then spent the next 30 minutes trying to get 4/19: We took a water taxi out to an Pyramids. We spent two hours trying to out (film at 11). island called Caye Caulker, where we enjoyed find a sneaky way around the camping fees. We all left Tikal and headed toward scratching uncontrollably, suffocating heat, Once we found a spot, the Captain promptly Belize to make a hurried, last minute border biking around the island, sea kayaking among located card-playing natives and they dealt crossing. A Guatemalan official cheated us rays and starfish and swimming with jellyfish him into a game of “Life or Death.” out of seven Quetzales, claiming it was an exit that really do sting, I learned. We had a tax. By the time Mike realized he had been lovely time amidst the coconuts, seagulls, and 4/15: Today we toured the pyramids. ripped-off (slightly over $1), it was too late. Rastafarians, but were determined to leave Mike got tired of using the well-paved and We had to keep moving or be stuck between first thing in the morning and find the nearest David Unger David Taco van Ieperen van Taco

Mayan guide in one of the caves near Cueva Sacmoc Herb Laeger, Mike Shawcross, Matt Oliphant and Eve Laeger study the maps

 NSS News, March 2008 Charley Savvas Taco van Ieperen van Taco

Lara Arnott wakes up some bats in a short cave near Semuc Matt Kramar in Cueva Sacmoc Champey dark, cool cave. Our hotel room that night paperwork and I got out the video camera. on their head, I didn’t budge. They scrubbed was beautiful, but just like the marina, was When Mike signaled that he had all our their colorful handmade clothing expertly infested with sand fleas. If you’re interested documents processed, I asked the official on the rocks and stared at the crazy gringa in looking like a victim of the measles in your if I could take a few pictures for a souvenir. sulking in their pool. It was an awkward sexiest swimsuit, I highly recommend the He smiled widely and posed while I clicked moment for all. experience. It was great. Really. away. Mike then approached the window Later we drove into town and found and snarled in Spanish, “Remember me? internet. The Captain’s intuition was correct. 4/20: Two hours into our trip back to A few days ago? You stole seven Quetzales The group had found an excellent cave lead. the U.S., the Captain had a premonition from me!! ($1) Now my girlfriend has your Squealing tires, spitting gravel, dust, and and pulled over. Although we had decided it picture and we’re going to report you!” The chicken feathers, we met them all in Coban was financially prudent to head back home man actually ran to a cash drawer, withdrew that night. and hit some caves on the way, his sixth ten Quetzales, and pushed it quickly to Mike caving sense convinced him the rest of the underneath the glass window! No kidding! It 4/22: Took a long 4x4 trip to a remote Guatemalan expedition members had located was worth the return trip for just this sweet area. We met David Unger, who is a German- a cave of significant proportions. He paced small victory and we laughed and high-fived born caver living in Guatemala who speaks back and forth on a side dirt road, debating well into the day. the Mayan language, and a Guatemalan whether to return home and kick himself if caver, Juan. David discussed with local his hunch is correct, or return to Guatemala 4/21: We stopped in Chisec and chilled landowners how to procure a guide or two. living on Ramen noodles and do some seri- at a waterhole. The bug bites, in combina- The Captain and I were in a group assigned ous river caving. We both opt for the latter. tion with the heat, were unbearable and I to checking out miscellaneous cave leads. We crossed the border again and had scratched until my feet bleed. I stayed in the Our guide took us on a hot and nasty hike the extreme good fortune of finding the water with no intention of leaving. Mike took up to two rat holes decorated with melted same cheating Guatemalan official on duty. off to hobnob with locals and check out some birthday candles and cheap plastic religious We made a plan on how to best set up the cave leads. Even when the village women artifacts. Soon after these caves, Mike and thief and went to work. Mike handled the started down the hill with baskets of laundry I set off to locate Sacmoc. Without specific Charley Savvas Matt Oliphant/Nancy Pistole

The ambyplygid is a common insect in Guatemalan caves. It looks Philip Rykwalder crossing Rio Sacmoc, just downstream from the fierce but poses little threat to people. waterfall

NSS News, March 2008  directions, we essentially bushwhacked through passage with real blowing wind! down a steep jungle hill for an hour before Mike continued to give directions and hints finally hearing the roar of water below us. on how to best navigate each belay point. The sight of the huge river through the trees He was an excellent teacher and without his David Unger David was pretty darn thrilling. Mike decided to help I’d still be digging and doing belly crawls push on ahead alone so I could photograph back in Colorado. I thoroughly enjoyed the him near the waterfall for scale. After thirty massiveness of the cave and a chance to minutes I saw his small figure struggling to use my vertical system somewhere besides cross the river and heading toward a small a cliff face or a tree on the side of a Mexican hill directly in front of the roaring falls. He highway. We stopped at a point agreed upon stood up, clothes whipping crazily about him, by the expedition members. Tomorrow will then jumped directly into the white waves. be the big race to scoop virgin cave! Although Mike gave a mighty try to reach the waterfall, he was repeatedly pushed back 4/24: Up early,everyone anxious to to the rocks. get started. We all made our way to the Eventually I made it down to his loca- stopping point in the cave and waited for tion after three attempts which ended in 1) everyone to gather at what was to be the a sheer-drop off, 2) a pit (didn’t go), and 3) starting line. Matt, Nancy, Charley, Philip, foaming whitewater. By holding large rocks and Pete were chomping at the bit, waiting in both hands and ignoring the travertine for Mike to arrive so they could race through shredding my kneecaps, I crossed the river the virgin borehole river passage. Mike’s feet on all fours without being washed away. barely touched ground and already he began Once across, there were some lovely little to unclip. As soon as the last bar on his rack spots to relax and we were both content left the rope, everyone disappeared into the Matt Oliphant on a traverse in Cueva simply to take in the massiveness of the falls darkness. We worked our way upstream over Sacmoc and cave. We kept a constant look out for slick, river-polished boulders. Trying to stay expedition members above who were rigging dry soon proved impossible and we jumped 4/29: Breakfast (Mexican Food), hey, ropes through the jungle and over the steep into the river without hesitation on our quest haven’t had that lately. Later, Texas BBQ cliff. Fairly late in the day we saw hundreds to locate Xilbalba. We were rewarded with... and the latest Tarentino/Rodriguez film-oh of swallows flying out of the cave and guessed a sump. Darn! Still, what a great cave! The yeah, it’s good to be back. that they had been disturbed by the arriving rest of the day was spent photographing, cavers. Yay! Mike of course would not sit still mapping and rigging up to the main entrance 4/30: Home : ) for this and shot back up the mountainside in where the falls start. I loved watching every- order to hook up with the rest of the team. one doing their part: Mike and Matt rigging, We want to thank our sponsors, I later heard from him that the vines were Nancy and Philip mapping, Charley and the Colorado Grotto and the Southern so thick as he was descending the rope that Pete photographing. I finally got my chance Colorado Mountain Grotto for making his rack became choked with the foliage to help out when they needed me to head donations to our project and for helping and he had to use his teeth to sever them to back up a long climb to get more rope so out the local schools. continue downwards! We returned to Coban they could rig across the river. and camped at Dave Unger’s that night. Footnotes 4/25: We spent the day taking photos *Fathom: Six feet (we don’t do yards 4/23: We returned to the cave and set and filming from the river below. unless it’s ale). up camp. I hung out and watched everyone’s *A Letter of Marque: Basically a letter of stuff, read, watched the locals drying cloves 4/26: Three tarantulas were found at introduction given by the government entities on blankets, and stayed as cool as possible our campsite while packing up. Small for to pass beyond the borders of the nation to while the others worked on rigging the cave. tarantulas, but big honking spiders all the explore uncharted waters. Late in the day, Mike returned to take me on same. Guatemala/Mexico border crossing. * O z t o t l : A z t e c s y m b o l o f t h e a “warm up trip” and work on my vertical underworld. skills. The first section on rope was simply 4/27: Two words: toll booths. We finally *Xilbalba: The Mayan Underworld (I pushing through all the trees and under- found a place that sold a decent cup of coffee swear it be true). growth on the cliff side. Then there was a and it was a little slice of heaven for us. Later nice free drop with a spectacular 360 degree that night while we slept in the Chinook on view of the surrounding jungle and river far a cozy little side road, we were raided by below. I was very happy to dangle in space seven Tampico police officers. They wanted like a spider, slowly turning on the rope, just us to move three blocks up the road to a gas amazed at everything I was seeing. Thanks to station. We left town instead. the work of Mike Shawcross, Matt Oliphant, Taco van Ieperen van Taco Nancy Pistole, Pete Shifflett, Charley Savvas, 4/28 U.S. border crossing. Armadillo Philip Rykwalder, Herb Laeger, Matt Kramar, attack force--the Chinook wins easily. Singing Dave Unger, Taco van Ieperen, Lara Arnott, and hydroplaning in the rain. camping at and Orion Asturias, I got a chance at seeing Charley and Kara’s, a wonderfully unique and doing things I only ever thought I’d home modeled around a former gas station read about. with plane nosecones for storage sheds, a At the first solid landing I snapped toilet that incinerates poop, and a bus with Lara Arnott admires the cockroaches in a some pictures, unclipped, and walked back a built-in beer keg and bumper grill. short cave near Semuc Champey

 NSS News, March 2008 Back-to-back Adventures South Of The Border Philip Rykwalder A coppered sun, a twinkling water, a hobbled horse, a string of fish. Veracruz is that narrow coastal Mexican state sand- wiched between the looming mountains of Jean Krejca Jean the Sierra Madre Oriental to the west and the Gulf of Mexico to the east. Led by Texan Peter Sprouse were two dozen cavers from Texas, California, Minnesota and Mexico camped along an enormous spring-fed river the hypnotic color of Maya jewelry. To my right, a palapa hut of palm branches and a window where beer and dinner came from. To my left: a trail that led straight to a magical river cave—a perfect camping spot, indeed. Each morning we had a bite in the cool air among friends and issued forth into the vanishing coolness into jungles whose floors were dotted with thousands on thousands of those delicate pink flowers from your mother’s garden, impatiens, and explored river caves. These are not the malarial selvas or bosques of the Amazon or northern Sandra Denney in Cueva del Ojo de Agua Grande Guatemala, but are lofty verdant forests whose hills curve with the most graceful of water, and I was hurled, luckily not into camp in a dense canopy of tropical green profiles up leafy mountainsides and down the river, but next to it onto those razor- trees, curious and groping vines and leaves again into dark green shadow. With firm sharp rocks. My hand was shredded into a broader than umbrellas (used and named for stances in the soil, trees sway to the gentle bloody torn mess. Once out of the melee that very purpose) towards another river cave call of the breeze and swell with pride as Matt constructed a bandage of duct tape, and another river. visitors walk through them, having many and we continued past a long swim and As I walked slumped under a pack laden things to be proud of. scrambled up over broken breakdown with with rope and rubber, I pondered a notion Not a twenty-minute walk from camp the sound of the water somewhere hidden that often passes over me. To John Muir, to our aquamarine river welled up from a great below and found it once again dancing with Major John Wesley Powell, to Sir Edmund breakdown pile whose maze of boulders madness against rocks, waiting for us. The Hillary, Edward Shackleton and scores of held an entrance to Cueva del Ojo de Agua walls narrowed and water filled the passage other explorers, the pristine world was full Grande. Beyond some short crawls came from wall to wall leaving a swirling, whirling, of unexplored territory, ranges teeming with that watery sound that I know as the sound vortex of Class II and III rapids to be negoti- unexplored slopes and peaks, wondrous of adventure, fear and happiness: the sound ated, plainly an impossibility on foot. unknown animals, dancing rivers of greens, of a pounding and pulsing cataract of white The following day we returned with an reds and browns and more—so much more. water that would have filled an entire valley entourage of people and gear, and bolted The planet was a playground of discovery and with its Herculean voice but when confined our way across the wall above the rapids, the call of the great unknown grabbed some to a cave passage verily thrummed against leaving a network of ropes strung behind souls roughly by the collar and threw them the rock and sent vibrations to my very core. us. There are laws of nature that govern into a void beyond the limits of maps, where At times water caves contain a pleasant life and limb, but given a will living things speculation was rampant, and the only clue of amount of water and docile swimming and will force their way around any obstacle by what laid beyond was found in imagination. casual walking in the stream passage is called a set of impromptu and self-invented laws. And now there are parking lots at the foot of for; while at other times underground rivers Not far beyond the tumbling water passage mountains, handrailed paths that crisscross contain dangerous volumes of water. The was more swimming in swift waters and every landscape, and signs that caution and line between the two is not always clear and finally a large heart-shaped sump and the direct. Lands that are graded into difficulties can be uncomfortably narrow, as we were cave’s unfortunate end, as this was the sort by the most artificial and superficial of means to find out. of wondrous gliding river passage that I possible. Little remains undiscovered, unex- could have explored with a smile for mile plored, untouched under the fine-toothed Cueva Del Ojo De Agua Grande after mile. comb of man’s eyes, feet, and hands except On my first day in Cueva del Ojo del for those few remaining hidden realms. I too Agua Grande I kept my book mostly dry until feel the rough hand about my collar pulling the swims began, and then even swimming Cueva El Resumbador A few days later I found myself hiking me into motion and consider myself lucky with the book in my teeth the pages were up through the dappled forests above that enough to know where there still remain sodden, and there was no hope of erasing same enormous and bubbling blue-green untouched places—and that is exactly where anything so I had only one chance to sketch. resurgence outside the town of Orizaba, I was headed. We crossed rapids teeming with sheer power Veracruz, near the mountain with the same To write about El Resumbador I need and anger. When I lost my balance my foot name. We climbed perhaps 200m above not bend towards my memory to recall any was wrenched out from under me by that

NSS News, March 2008  detail as every palpitating moment, desper- ate feeling, and fearful urge is ensconced in Cavers survey around the rapids, El Resumabador me forever. Mountaineers may claim that they’ve conquered peaks, but I know I’m just a guest in places like El Resumbador. Of the Krejca Jean countless caves I’ve visited over the past 15 years it is undoubtedly one of my most clear memories. In the beginning we exulted in one of those wondrous open-air Mexican pit entrances with the great clearing in the forest ahead that yawns to a ragged edge adorned with fleshy soft yuccas, trees skewed far from vertical and grassy ledges with hanging vines far below. A rope, a tree, a knot and I’m on my way down and we’re stacked in a row at the rebelays each waiting for our turn at the 60m open-air pitch that drops into a broad, beautiful, ceiling-less room many acres in size. From the top I take measure of the pit and the floor looks flat and I can’t figure out why the figures below are so keenly picking gather myself and remember what I was to for fear. Downstream of Wicho the water slid their way slowly across the flatness, but below do. The others came down and we tottered smoothly and effortlessly under the ceiling of I tumble on the steeply bouldered slope, and our way around that spraying fire hose of a the sump and in my mind I saw him being we convene below to don wetsuits and then waterfall, found yet another enormous foun- carried swiftly away as we tried in vain to slide down a muddy groove and enter the tain of equal proportions and rage entering pluck him from the water. Nancy instinctively darkness. the passage, and we set off to cross the now reached a hand out to help him, but with both A bolt, a hanger, a rack, and a waterfall. furious river for the first time and I was not of his arms fully occupied at the desperate A roaring waterfall. That sound again. The yet scared. act of avoiding being washed away she and sound ripened, thickened, and swelled as we We traversed alongside a third great I knew that he wouldn’t dare take her hand. approached and finally it swallowed all other waterfall in the river whose power filled the By and by he managed to beach himself on sound in one continuous gulp and it seemed passage with a certain resonance that my the rock. I knew that he had danced on that a sort of gnashing rage oozed from the rock, heart in its munificence took as joy and it thin line and come out on the lucky side of and we felt that rage. Rappelling next to this would be much later in the day until I saw that life. After that incident I found myself taking waterfall, the throbbing, palpitating heart of the water foaming and leaping was express- tentative and delicately unsure steps as we the cave and the source of the sound, I was ing anger and not spring-time ecstasy. The scuttled about the rocks above the torrential enveloped in a blanket of spray churning in second time we crossed the river I was rapids, and I looked forward to the time when the air like overly thick fog in a livid wind blanketed by a heavy dose of adrenaline that I would be able to climb that thin white rope and at the bottom I took a startled minute to buoyed me along and the fear unknowingly and escape from this place. ebbed in around my ankles and welled up With the survey wrapped up we bottle- to my knees, but it wouldn’t be until later necked at the few ropes and then made in Wicho’s slip that the fear would finally our way until we smelled the warm organic wash coldly over my heart. We pendulumed smells of the largest room of them all, where across the water, crossing a third time, and the mantle of night had long ago taken root Jean Krejca Jean then Charley and Matt took to bolting along on the tropical land. We gathered coiling the wall—the water was just too horrible ropes, exchanging gear and packing up for to consider entering at that point—even the sodden walk back to camp. With water seasoned kayakers would have taken pause dripping off our laden packs and sloshing at the standing waves we now encountered. in our boots and the pure joy and drive of After another 100m the ceiling fell to the the day wearing off, we found ourselves water’s boiling surface and a downstream stumbling along in the dark on this last day sump and the cave’s end was encountered of the expedition towards camp as green and and we turned and started out. yellow eyes in the dark peered down from the I saw the fine line between thrilling, canopy above. The next day we all rounded action-packed adrenaline caving and agony up our waterlogged gear and headed north and wretchedness when Wicho slipped and back to the States and I awaited the start of fell into that churning and seething water. Then I truly realized that the words that the water spoke were truly that of anger and Images from Cueva Sacmoc rage. I knew the power of these waters as I Clockwise from upper left: would wear a bandage on my hand from my fall in Cueva de Ojo de Agua Grande for a 1 & 2:. Looking out (David Unger) month, and now I watched him cling tenu- 3. Matt on a climb (David Unger). ously to a rock with whitewater foaming all Charley Savvas and Matt Oliphant bolt their about his face. His body was concealed under 4. View of a red-clad caver in the entrance way up the wall and around the rapids in El (Taco van Ieperen) Resumbador. the angry whiteness and my heart leapt out

10 NSS News, March 2008 NSS News, March 2008 11 12 NSS News, March 2008 a trip to Guatemala in two weeks. were in the mountainous isolation of Soloma in time to catch a hotel, a chicken dinner, A Bus To Guatemala and a beer and then the rest of the group Banana farms with scores of little blue arrived and we celebrated the end of another ripening bags hung over bunches of the long journey south and the beginning of the yellow fruit whizzed by, followed by a farmer adventuring. Charley Savvas with a horse-drawn cart filled with a color- ful array of red, orange, green, and yellow The Highlands Of Soloma And serrano chilies, all with a backdrop of pale Barillas green acacia-like trees. Next to me Charley Gunshots in the night and funerals in the sat staring out the bus window. As riding morning. Northern Guatemala isn’t known provided plenty of time to relax, I stretched for peace. my legs, rolled my head in a circle, closed my Soon after our days at sea level with eyes and lazily daydreamed. Charley Savvas ocean views we are at 3,000 meters and and I were part of a group of cavers from are shown to a short cliff cave with a lovely the United States, Guatemala, and Canada view of Huehuetenango. Charley heaves for convening to explore and map caves in the first time from the effects of the altitude. Guatemala. The country has the usual vari- I can feel the thin air bringing me closer and ety of caves but river caves are Guatemala’s closer to nausea and I kneel in the gentle bread and butter. Our goal was to visit north- heather and lie on my back and reflect on the western Guatemala in a little-visited area clouds. The land here is a high karst plateau known for its history of political unrest. pocked with countless sinkholes reefed in Cliffside cave with a view of Huehuetenango We made our way through the Mexican grey limestone boulders. The days are very city of Monterrey followed by coastal Tampico, dry, the nights cool, and the mornings fresh morning we met new people who might have where the horizon is broken by stately grey and inviting. From vantages on our day hikes been wraiths of people from the previous day iron masts of mammoth boats, cranes, and I see vistas of deep valleys thousands of feet and the day previous to that, because they all other port sights, and then there was the below hedged in shadows and great water- said the same thing. “No!” I resigned myself lonely coastal road of northern Veracruz. In falls pouring down onto the land below. Out to never seeing another cave in Guatemala if ocean-side Veracruz once again Charley and the window of Matt’s truck we see sinkholes we stayed in that place, but then we moved I looked intently out of bus windows and saw shoulder-to-shoulder, a profusion of blind on to that magical place in the mountains the same scenery from two weeks previous pits, exposures of beautiful gray limestone that is Cobán, and that all changed. and we were still enthralled and drank it all and many other portents of a deep sistema in as fast as it came at us. I watched the hidden somewhere below us, but no entrance Cobán sights of rolling hills, light green grasses and seems to go more than a few meters. To get to Cobán we ground our way low trees broken by occasional stretches of Over the course of many days we cavers east across a ribbon of rock and dirt that thin ocean views pass by the window before set out and combed over this high and barren had never known the blade of a grader. darkness descended. land and found not much. In my head I This road was so rutted and worn that the After a short wait in Villahermosa and modeled the karst and saw a grand karst potholes turned into Olympic pools in the a confused border crossing in the night we plateau that connect thousands on thousands wet season handily deep enough to swallow were in Guatemala. We spent the night at a of karst features and then a labyrinthine entire trucks. I saw firsthand this narrow $14 hotel, ate a desayuno of beans and eggs network of larger and larger vadose channels topographic wonder that wove its way and took a glorious morning ride on those that funnel and focus the water in a dendritic up, across, and around the land that was decorated chicken busses of Guatemala with fashion towards a common goal, a massive forged by thousands of hard-rubber wheels 96 of our closest friends and a dog on the underground river with grand waterfalls that and grinding gears laden with black beans, roof and then we were in the shoulder-high come in the dozens of dozens. This network swaying Guatemaltecos, lengths of rebar, crowds of Huehuetenango, Guatemala. More of passages may still exist deep underground dusty mortar, faulty cement blocks, and all confusion in a foreign land and then we awaiting more patient and probing explorers, other parts of life. Everything in Guatemala is but after two weeks of disappointment we’d somewhere strapped to the back of a Toyota, had enough. We wound our way east over lumbering and tottering along at fourteen Color Images, Clockwise from blue-green hills dappled with colorful towns, kilometers per hour. In Playa Grande, a hot upper Left: purple-painted tombstones, and dusty roads and dusty place, I ate lunch and watched 1. Philip Rykwalder descending to the river towards Barillas. toucans eat aguacates in that comical manner in Cueva Sacmoc (Charley Savvas) Soloma was an armpit of a town, but in they have of eating with their chop-stick-like 2.Seth Spoelman next to the rapids in El Barillas we found a happy town of workers, beaks while pet monkeys roamed about their Resumbador (Jean Krejca). glittering rivers shuttling water continuously, cages, eating as they swung along. goggled eyes looking at us through the In Cobán we took up residence at a 3. Matt Oliphant at the White Cliff entrance to Cueva Sacmoc (David Unger) bottom of rum bottles, giggling girls luring hotel and did some day trips, ate our favor- us into cafes, broad sinkholes that housed ite churrasco every night on the square, 4. Further upstream in Cueva Sacmoc entire towns of roughhewn timber, and timid showered, and celebrated in that land which (Charley Savvas) but shrewd people who turned us back from houses so many beautiful river caves and 5. Blind white cave crab in Cueva Sacmoc their land at every opportunity. We gathered friendly people who welcomed us after so (Charley Savvas) letters of introduction from the municipality, many had turned us away. Some nights 6. Herb Laeger swimming in Cueva K’an talked with locals, smiled and tried to go we camped and slept in our tents, listening Ba (Charley Savvas) caving, but they distrusted us, taking us for to the nightly concert of the shrill chirps, miners, and consistently turned us back. Each cheery peeps, bug-sized cries and dronings

NSS News, March 2008 13 14 NSS News, March 2008 NSS News, March 2008 15 and moanings that insects make in the dark. the words were lost in the short span from victories and failures alike are shared and We rejoiced, smiled, swam, drank coffee, her mouth to my ear. Like her I wondered remembered, but friends can surprise you, sweated under the glorious sun and went how we would be able to get in at all. This too. A mock anxiousness hung cleanly in caving. great entrance sat high above us on an the air to be the first in that river and to the immense cliff-slope of dense jungle and we source of that sound. Gathered on that bank Cueva Sacmoc stared up half in shock and half in horror of we all waited and there was something like a Our first order of business was to tend certain failure. How in the world would we be countdown and then with a splash and a dash to some loose ends, most notably cave leads able to get into that entrance? I was pensive Charley just broke out and we all desperately that needed cleaning up, starting with one as already two groups had tried and failed ran after with him as we pulled at shirts, that Tennessean Ric Finch supplied. We to enter, and now I knew that the days to tumbled over boulders, fell over ourselves, walked down more dry dusty roads in the come would be filled with hope, hard work, tumbled in the water, and somehow Charley Guatemalan heat and lingered shortly in what adrenaline, and sweat. managed to outrun the better part of a dozen little shade there was from spindly saba trees With most swing-in entrances a rope is desperate cavers and then we were all out with swallow nests hanging lazily from the slung down from above and a caver rappels of breath and sloppy wet, but wasn’t the high branches. We worked our way down down and hopefully in, but rappelling passage lovely? and passed dolinas through inviting green through a jungle canopy with its armored The cave proved to be a rather short tunnels through the forest to that sound. trees, tangles of vines, and massive spider- river cave, just a few hundred meters of river That sound again. webs is no easy task. After great difficulty, passage, but it was glorious river passage at That sound was one of those resonances two days, 270 meters of rope, countless that. The ceiling was far overhead, the walls that instantly transforms an otherwise forget- failed rappels, many unsure radio conver- far apart and the water churned and gnashed table day into a golden one that is told over sations and one big fat surprise, we were between them ready to wash anything and over with a stein in hand to any listening in. We had strung ropes out all over the unlucky enough to fall into it down—down- soul. A sound sought after, once dreamed cliff above the entrance in failed attempts stream and out that entrance. We surveyed up and twice times never found and now to rap down into the great entrance from and shot out the dramatic 70m waterfall it seemed almost a fantastical reality that above, but above the gods had grown bored entrance and took pictures of the picturesque became a glowing reality for a lucky few, and and sick of watching our miserable failures blue-green pool below and trudged back up we were that few. The roar of that water in and just swept us along and swatted us into the hill and returned to Coban for a respite an otherwise quiet place was an aria in our a secondary entrance with bored hands. in that hilly town. ears. Sliding down leaf-covered mud slopes, Inside we found some short rope drops in an grasping desperately, yet tentatively, to vine immense chamber that admitted a dappled K’an Ba handlines and climbing down an unexpected and magnificent light reflected from the In my head the phrase ‘river cave’ brings ladder, we came across a clear glass river waterfall entrance. The entrance room was the rubbery smell of neoprene to my nostrils, slipping by quickly on a bed of razor rock. enormous by even Borneo suggestions of the and I start to wonder which wetsuit I’ll need We crossed that teeming river on a large word, and it was even more startling because and where my booties are and that sentiment hardwood log and then worked our way it was lit up by natural light, the most lovely will never leave my head, no matter how up an enormous mound of rock and earth of lights. I was the dreamer, and this was no much Nancy teases me. Water is an excellent covered with the most curious of plants that longer my dream; it was our reality. conductor of heat and I have frozen my white sprayed forth water when poked. The foam Below one more rope drop we found ass off more times than I care to count in and fury of the waterfall came upwelling at us ourselves further inside the enormous cold water caves from Oaxaca to Wyoming. from a great crystalline pool with hurricane waterfall entrance. Gathering on a cobbled River caves in Guatemala are different, force winds and swimming in that striking and mudded slope and discarding our verti- though, pleasantly warm. Swimming and blue water was sort of a game of dare with cal gear, we stood at the water’s edge. jumping gloriously into deep pools in K’an the gods or life itself. Undoubtedly part of exploration is compan- Ba I found out what she meant. Wearing not I knew that Nancy was talking to me but ionship of those special friends of life where (concluded on page 30) Charley Savvas Charley Savvas

Entrance to Cueva Yaxlik Mud drip-spires in Cueva Yaxlik

16 NSS News, March 2008 Conservation An article in the December 19, 2007 Endangered Species Act of 1973 to build the For the second time in a decade, fungus edition of the earthtimes.org, reports wind farm. Buchan’s organization supports is threatening France’s most celebrated vandals have scribbled over a rock-art site wind farms in proper locations. prehistoric paintings, the mysterious animal painted by South Africa’s indigenous San images that line the Lascaux Cave in the people up to 6,000 years ago. The vandal- A protected colony of rare fruit bats Dordogne region of southwest France. No ism was discovered in Elands Bay, where in Cyprus has almost been wiped out by consensus has emerged among experts over cave paintings show stories of the ancient unidentified gunmen using them for target whether the invading patches of gray and San’s religious experiences and beliefs. Jane practice. Dozens of the mammals, which are black mold are the result of climate change, Moleleki, a provincial director of cultural under threat of extinction, were killed in the a defective temperature control system, the affairs, said the vandalism would be inves- shooting spree in a fenced-off cave in the light used by researchers, or the carbon tigated. Specialists were called in to assess western district of Paphos. From a colony dioxide exhaled by visitors. However, after the damage and determine whether the art of about 60, only 10 to 15 survived. While inspection by a team of microbiologists, the can be restored. the mammal can also be found in the Middle government has approved a new treatment East, Pakistan, and north India, there were a of the blemishes with a fungicide and ordered An ancient cave in Herts (United maximum of 3,500 left in Cyprus. According that the cave be sealed off for as long as Kingdom), thought to have been used by to Harris Nicolaou, a conservation officer four months so that its delicate environment the Knights Templar during their quest for with the Cypriot forestry department, this can be stabilized. The Lascaux paintings the Holy Grail, is under threat according to is the only fruit bat in an EU member state. are thought to be 15,000 to 17,000 years British MP Oliver Heald. Royston Cave, (November 30, 2007 Reuters) old. The early Europeans who roamed the believed to date back to the 13th Century, is region used crushed minerals to create some being damaged by the weight and vibration of Wild Caves 600 images in red, ochre, deep brown, and excessive heavy traffic on the street that runs An article in the November 29, 2007 black, some so powerful and vivid that they above the cave. Heald, as well as English edition of the San Francisco Chronicle are considered among the finest examples Heritage, is now campaigning to save the highlights Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, of Paleolithic cave art. (December 9, 2007 cave. The cave is a man-made cave in the where the remains of Mayan human sacri- The New York Times) shape of a beehive, with a small aperture at fices can still be seen in Belize. The cave the top for ventilation. Inside are wall carv- leads a half-mile underground to one of the Critics of the planned I-66 highway ings representing the Crucifixion, the Holy few Mayan sacrificial sites in the world that have expressed their fears for the environ- Family, and several saints, including Saint is virtually untouched, with skeletal remains ment in an article in the December 17, 2007 Katherine, Saint Laurence, and Saint from 14 individuals and 1,400 artifacts that edition of The Courier Journal (Kentucky). Christopher. Local historians have said the date back as far as 2,000 years. The cave Although I-66 was originally planned as wall carvings suggest the cave may have been opened only nine years ago in the Cayo a transcontinental highway, current plans used by the Knights Templar. Royston Cave District of Belize. Visitors are granted access call for a radically scaled-back version, two is managed by the Royston History Society. only with guides certified by the National relatively short segments in southern and (December 28, 2007 BBC News) Institute of Archaeology. eastern Kentucky. Unfortunately, these short segments run through areas covered in Bats Cuban and American speleologists are forests, rivers, and cave systems. According In the November 30, 2007 edition of working side by side in the study of caves to Thomas Barr, a retired professor of biolog- the Daily American (Pennsylvania) a Shaffer located in the Caguanes National Park of ical sciences at the University of Kentucky, Mountain resident claimed that Gamesa the central province of Sancti Spíritus, the area that would be affected by the new officials failed to release a report stating that trying to make accurate maps of the caves. road harbors one of the most highly diverse an endangered species of bat had been dis- Five teams made up of 21 experts, includ- cave fauna sites in the world. Many of the covered on the mountain. A study conducted ing members of the speleological group concerns have been drawn directly from on behalf of Gamesa revealed that two SAMA in Sancti Spiritus, worked together the 456-page draft environmental impact juvenile Indiana bats (Myotis sodalis) were for ten days in the study of six of the ten statement for I-66, submitted in May 2006 discovered in the middle of the company’s known caves in the region, which included by the Kentucky Transportation Cabinet proposed windmill project area. Ellen Lutz, the Boquerones Cavern, the largest, in and approved by the Federal Highway director of development for Gamesa, and the center of Cuba. The research, being Administration. After the environmental Tim Vought, senior project developer, both led by Alejandro Romero Emperador, vice impact statement for the London-Somerset said the information was released at an president of the Cuban Speleological Society portion of I-66 was issued last year, Daniel August 28 Department of Environmental and head of SAMA, yielded evidence of Boone Forest supervisor Jerome Perez Protection public meeting. Gamesa opted sulfur crystals and the discovery of fourteen responded with a critique that questioned not to release the full report earlier to honor new pictorial symbols. (December 13, 2007 the need for the road. Since then, the requests from federal agencies that did not ahora.cu) Transportation Cabinet has selected a likely want the location of the bats’ cave revealed to path for I-66 that reduces its impact on the the public. Jack Buchan, a Shaffer Mountain A group of 16 speleologists from Sofia forest. A multitude of organizations and property owner and member of Sensible speleology clubs began an expedition in individuals in Kentucky and beyond remain Wind Solutions, recently received the report Ukraine in late December. The speleolo- opposed, or at least apprehensive, about and was not surprised that Indiana bats were gists will arrive in Ukraine on December 21 the project. discovered at the location. He said Gamesa spending the first 4 days in mapping part of will need a “takings permit” under the the galleries of Ozernaya Plaster Cave,

NSS News, March 2008 17 which has been explored to 116 kilometers. Cavers who led the study, found that out of 3,500 The second cave the Bulgarians will explore The November 2007 issue of Guideposts Native Americans examined from a genetic is the karst cave, Kristalnaya, which is the has an article on caves authored by Colorado database, 1.5 percent showed the same third biggest cave in Ukraine. (December 17, caver Andrea Croskrey. Her interest in genetic pattern in their mitochondrial DNA 2007 News.bg) geology, and caves in particular, began in as that found in the ancient tooth. The article 2002 during an internship monitoring and in the December 28, 2007 issue of Discover Show Caves surveying caves at the Ozark National Scenic Magazine reports Kemp has also compared An article in the December 1, 2007 Riverways. After returning to school for her the ancient DNA with its related modern edition of the Evansville Courier & Press senior year, Croskrey decided to become a DNA to see how fast it mutated over time. reports that southern Indiana’s Marengo cave geologist, spending her life mapping, Cave will be the site of filming for the movie understanding, and protecting caves. She Cave Rescue “Fire From Below.” Scenes for the new obtained her master’s in geo-sciences from A 15-year-old Westport girl sustained a movie, starring Kevin Sorbo, will be filmed Western Kentucky University in 2006 and broken leg during a fall in a cave near Darkies over two days in December. The last time currently works for the National Park Service Terrace, in Charleston. The teen, touring the cave appeared in a Hollywood movie Geologic Resources Division in Lakewood, the cave with a large school group, had was in 2001 with “Madison,” the story of Colorado. climbed part of the way down when she a hydroplane racer and a struggling town Caver and biologist, Katharina Dittmar fell the remaining two meters into an eight- chosen to host boat racing’s Gold Cup. de la Cruz has set out on a planet-wide meter shaft. Westport Fire Service extricated treasure hunt of caves found in jungles from the girl and airlifted her to a hospital for treat- Cave Diving South America to Southern Asia seeking bat ment. (December 6, 2007 Stuff.co.nz) United States divers Casey McKinlay flies and fleas, which infest bats. Dittmar, and Jarrod Jablonski have set a new diving assistant professor in the Department of Cave Deaths record by swimming a total of 7 miles (11.25 Biological Sciences, College of Arts and A 39-year-old doctor died when he fell kilometers) through underground freshwater Sciences, joined the University of Buffalo into an estimated 60-meter-deep pit while caves. For their record-breaking passage, faculty this fall to continue an ambitious exploring Taligsik cave, in the western the duo dropped into Turner Sink on research project on the physical and genetic town of Balamban, Cebu. Dr. Adolph Espina December 15 and swam through 7 miles characteristics of bat flies and fleas, a project II, along with five other cavers, were on a of underground freshwater cave before she began while a postdoctoral researcher three day trip to survey and map the cave, resurfacing at Wakulla Springs State Park at Brigham Young University. The goal is to which is believed to be more than 100 near Tallahassee, Florida, on December 16. assemble a complete phylogeny, essentially meters deep, and potentially one of the According to National Geographic News, it a tree of life, containing a specimen of every deepest vertical caves in the Philippines, took the pair over 6 hours to complete the known species of bat fly and flea on the when the accident occurred. Mertz Certifico, two-entrance cave traverse, and more than planet. So far, she has collected 80 species a member of the team, said the accident 14 more to decompress before surfacing. of bat flies and 250 species of fleas, about happened at the second pitch in the cave The divers each used some 20 different 10 percent of all known species for each when the survey team started to descend. scuba cylinders, filled with seven different parasite. (December 6, 2007 University of After Espina’s fall, three of the team stayed gas mixtures for various depths. They also Buffalo Reporter Volume 39, Number 13) with Espina while two left the cave to alert had six different underwater vehicles and two authorities. Rescue personnel from the separate rebreather systems—underwater The Winter 2007 (Volume 1, Issue 4) University of San Carlos Mountaineers, breathing aids that recycle air to conserve of Holoworld has an interview with caver Team Habagat of Ramon Vidal, the Central oxygen. This is believed to be the world’s John Klayer. Caving and holography both Visayas Search and Rescue (Cevsar), Cebu longest underwater traverse between two captured the interest of Klayer at roughly the City fire brigade, the Philippine Air Force, cave entrances. The record-setting dive was same time in his life. He made his first holo- Inter-Mountaineering Society, and Federation not only for the sake of setting a record. It is gram in the early 1970s, before trying it in of Visayas Radio Clubs spent 17 hours locat- part of the Woodville Karst Plain Project, an a cave. Although not having much success ing and retrieving Espina’s body. Based on effort to map the region’s underground cave with early cave holography attempts, he the team’s assessment of the incident the systems, understand their role in the aquifer, continued to do holography. Klayer eventu- December 2, 2007 edition of the Sun Star and protect their waters from pollution. ally resumed cave holography in earnest in Cebu, reported equipment failure caused the (December 18, 2007 Thaindian News) the 1990s, where he has achieved success at accident. The exploration team members creating holograms of real world objects. belong to Speleological Cebu, a founding member of the National Caving Association- Anthropology/Archaeology Philippine Speleological Society. Molecular archaeologists have drilled into a 10,300-year-old human tooth discov- Following the death of Dr. Adolph ered in Alaska and extracted DNA. The Espina in Taligsik Cave, the December 5, molar, recovered from skeletal remains 2007 edition of ABS CBN News reported found in 1996 in On Your Knees Cave, that the provincial branch of the Department located on Prince of Wales Island, holds of Environment and Natural Resources the oldest genetic sample ever recovered (DENR) in Cebu issued a directive banning in the Americas. That sample supports cave exploration in the province. According the theory that humans first arrived in the to Chamberlain Babiera, officer-in-charge area about 15,000 years ago and then of the DENR Protected Areas and Wildlife migrated down the continent’s western Division, the six-member team had failed coastline. Brian Kemp, a molecular anthro- to receive the proper permission to enter pologist at Washington State University the cave. A technical team from DENR is

18 NSS News, March 2008 planning an investigation to determine the from North Yorkshire police. The bodies feet deep, and is the first image to show cause of the fatality. (December 5, 2007 were located in a streamway in the Long actual floor detail. (Sky & Telescope, Jan. ABS CBN News) Lower Churn section of the cave. Authorities 2008) [Ed. note: Most likely this is a pit did not identify the victims, but said both crater rather than a skylight. See http:// A Rotherham man died after being were experienced cavers. Alum Pot, one of hirise.lpl.arizona.edu/PSP_004847_1745 overcome with cold and exhaustion, just the most popular cave systems in Britain, for the image in context and other orbiter a 15-minute climb from the surface of is known to experience flash floods when photos.] Garland’s Pot in Giants Hole (United sudden, heavy rain occurs. (December 29, Kingdom). Police called Derbyshire Cave 2007 The Guardian) A Tennessee home built above a large Rescue personnel to the cave after a group cave that once housed a sophisticated of five cavers ran into difficulties on the last Miscellaneous underground marijuana operation has been leg of their trip. According to the December NASA’s Mars Reconnaissance Orbiter sold at a court-ordered auction. Authorities 6, 2007 edition of the Buxton Advertiser, made the news again with some closer-in seized the home in 2005 after finding more three members of the group were able to photos of suspected lava tube entrances. than 850 marijuana plants growing under climb to safety, while two men had to be Earlier a group of seven had been reported. lights in two secured, 100-yard-long rooms rescued during a two-hour operation involv- The one in the recently released photo in the cave. An article in the December 12, ing 27 cavers from the area. The victim (below) measures 500 feet across and 225 2007 edition of the Marietta Daily Journal was unconscious when the team reached (Georgia) reports Roth Kase USA Ltd., a him and died soon after arrival at Stepping Wisconsin-based maker of European-style Hill Hospital in Stockport. The group cheeses, purchased the property with a bid had planned to do the popular round trip of $285,000. at Giants Hole, at Peaks Hill Farm, which normally takes a couple of hours. This month’s contributors: Jerry Atkinson, Gale Beach, Larry Blair, Michael Two cavers drowned in Alum Pot Bodri, George Bush, Kyle Crider, Michael on December 27 after becoming trapped Cullinan, Dave Decker, Laura Derrick, inside the cave by rising water. Authorities David Hughes, Jim Kennedy, John Klayer, were alerted to the missing cavers when Hilary Lambert, Chuck Maize, Bill Marr, one of them failed to return home. A team of Arizona NASA/JPL/University David Ochel, Lynn Roebuck, Joel M. of 20 rescue personnel from the Clapham- Sneed, Dave Steinmann, Jack Stellmack, based Cave Rescue Organization searched Tony Voudy, Jim Wilbanks. through the night after responding to calls

NSS News, March 2008 19 Adventure Caving in Guatemala Dave Bunnell; photos by author except as noted In contrast to what we think of as “show caves” in the US, many caves available to the traveler in developing nations are only minimally developed. Often, these involve a guide who has little in the way of stan- dard caving gear, while you provide your own lighting and other gear. It is also often possible for cavers to arrange trips where they go on their own or perhaps further than the typical tourists are taken. Many of these caves make for great adventure travel destinations for cavers. Last March, during the same time period that Matt and Nancy and others were exploring caves like Samoc, I accompanied 11 other cavers on a two-week caving excur- sion to Guatemala organized by caver Ric Finch, who also conducts regular tourists trips throughout Central and South America. Now, most of my caving in foreign climes has been on expeditions whose primary purpose is survey. Since my interest in caving tends toward the photographic end, I was Conically-shaped stalactites in the back of K’an Ba are pure white intrigued by the notion of simply visiting a half a kilometer, most of it borehole devoid arranged to go to the very back of the cave, bunch of Guatemala’s nicest caves with the of much but large slippery breakdown. As it said to be quite photogenic, a distance of opportunity to take photos unfettered by the turned out, all the photographs taken by our over a kilometer (the whole cave is 3.3 km constraints of survey… group were in that nice stretch of passage long). The cave is basically a single stream We visited a number of caves on that near the front, so if you’re looking mainly passage, much of it canyon passage about 6 trip, but among them were three outstand- for pretty cave, there’s not much point going to 10m high and 4 to 8m wide. The water ing “tourist” caves also mentioned in the much beyond. has ponded in places behind a series of two main feature articles in this issue: rimstone dams, requiring a number of short Grutas del Rey Marcos, Grutas K’an Ba, Grutas K’an Ba swims and climb-ups. This makes for a sport- and the Candelaria system. Any of the trips South of the town of Lanquin is one of ing trip, all the nicer because the water is mentioned below would be available to cavers Guatemala’s most famous natural wonders, warm, so no wetsuit is required or desired. who might be visiting the area, some requir- the Semuc Champey. Here, carbonate- Our guide (below) was a colorful charac- ing some advance arrangements. charged springwater has built a series of ter who came stocked with a series of long travertine dams, which in turn pond the candles, dressed in only a pair of black shorts Grutas del Rey Marcos water to create lovely turqoise swimming This cave is south of the large town of holes in a jungle setting. It is very much like Cobán. It has a nicely manicured grounds Havasu Canyon on the Colorado Plateau, with a small lake, a river with a swimming but with a different twist: this sits on top of hole by a waterfall, and such amenities as a river cave. At the upper end of the traver- Bob Dobbs showers and picnic grounds. Before the tine series, one can watch the Río Cahabón cave was developed, it was explored by disappear into a cave entrance, as a foamy Nancy Pistole, Matt Oliphant, and others. washing-machine of white water and spray, Their map hangs prominently in the small that no sane person would attempt to enter. visitor center. In fact, a number of persons have fallen to The development in the cave is rather their death here. Some 340m below, the minimal, consisting of a string of bare light river resurges at the base of the last traver- bulbs on a single wire. The main attraction tine dam at the downstream entrance. Steve is a short stretch with some nice dripstone Knutson led a crew here in the early 90s formations, the signature one being the which attempted to bolt their way through Leaning Tower formation. Enroute is a short the cave from either end, only to find that stretch of nice stream passage with some the cave sumped partway through (see NSS small waterfalls. This is all seen in the first News, September ‘94). 300 meters of the cave, and near as we could Just before the entrance to the Semuc tell, there were no actual guides for this cave. Champey, one can take a short road up to We knew little about what was to be found the Grutas K’an Ba. It has a small visitor’s beyond but had secured permission to go as center that also serves some food and beer. In Guide in far as we liked. As it turned out, there was this cave, guides are provided to the groups, K’an Ba plenty of large cave to see in the remaining who normally go in a short ways. But we

20 NSS News, March 2008 These upper three images are from the Grutas del Rey Marcos

These three lower images are from Grutas K’an Ba

NSS News, March 2008 21 Above: K’an Ba. Everything else on this page: Candelaria System

22 NSS News, March 2008 adorned with orange flames. Some of the consists of seven distinct segments through longish segment of river walking took us to a candles he placed intermittently along the which the Río Candelaria flows. Altogether short segment of passage with relatively low stream passage, just in case we were unsure there is over 22 km of cave surveyed in the ceilings, followed by more surface waling, of the way out. system, originally by a French team in the and then the final segment through Venado Shortly inside was one of the more chal- early 70s. One member of this group, Daniel #1, where we emerged at the entrance lenging climbs in the cave, and this one had Dreux, was so enamored of the cave that he near our lodgings...and a fine dinner. Hard quite a spider-web of rope rigged down the emigrated to the area and built an eco-lodge, to imagine a nicer day of caving with all front of a large flowstone, some 15-feet high. the Canedelaria Lodge, adjacent to one of these amenities, short of discovering some All tour groups had to negotiate this. Several the large river entrances. We stayed at this virgin cave. hundred meters on another falls of about 12- wonderful place, which has thatched huts Most of the cave system consists of large feet high is encountered, but it proved to be surrounded by lushly landscaped tropical river passage, 20-30 m wide and 10-60 an easy climb once one found the handholds vegetation. Boardwalks connect the huts meters high, with wall-to-wall water through- hidden beneath the flowing water. to the dining area, where a nice blend of out most of it. Much of it involves floating At our first photo stop, an impressive French and local cuisine is served as part of down the quietly moving water in tubes (as meandering rimstone dam (see page 21), it the package. Peace and quiet is assured as the guides do) or simply in life vests, as most became clear that we needed a fast group it requires a half-kilometer walk in from the of our group opted to do. Throughout the (no cameras) and a slow one (cameras and nearest road. cave there are scenic skylights that bring in multiple flashes). Naturally I was in the latter, Our first afternoon, we visited a fossil that wonderful jungle-filtered light seen only so I didn’t see our guide for much of the segment of the cave on the lodge grounds, in the tropics. Much of the photography trip as he was always way ahead. But we all with vast, well-decorated passages connect- I did in the cave was at these entrances. reached the back of the cave, and here we ing numerous scenic entrances. In fact, there Otherwise, while the roof is typically covered found a fairyland of pure white speleothems are enough of these, and they are so large, by stalalactites, much of it is high overhead that contrasted markely with the orangish that a good deal of photography can be done and not easily photographed. But one area tones of the flowstone and rimstone found with just natural light. in particular stood out, a lengthy stretch of throughout the rest of the cave. One, a pure Next day we did an ambitious trip that orange flowstone/rimstone cascades along white angel wing drapery, grew almost to the Ric Finch arranged, covering some 5 km a 30-meter+ section of the wall, with white water’s surface. Clearly floodwaters didn’t of cave and perhaps half that in river on stalactites looming overhead. This is pictured get high here or this formation would never the surface where it flowed between cave on the lefthand page.. have developed to this extent. segments. Special arrangements were Some of the Candelaria system was Its fortunate that few groups are led back needed as Daniel’s group controls only part considered by the ancient Maya to be door- here, as some of it is fairly delicate. On the of the cave system. The segments upstream ways to the underworld of Xibalba, and the other hand, the controlled access to the cave from the lodge are controlled by the commu- cave contains several archeological sites. It has probably helped preserve this pristine nities of Candelaria Camposantos, and is fortunate that the cave is being protected region, which is depicted in some of the Muq’b’il Ha’. We arranged with these two by local villagers and it seems like a winning photographs that accompany the article. villages to do through-trips in the system, situation for both them and the cave. They After our exit, we enjoyed some of passing through their caves segments, and can earn some money guiding folks though, the excellent Guatemalan dark beer at the then finishing up the trips at the entrance in yet there is almost no impact on the cave visitor’s center and I showed some of the the Candelaria Lodge. Each village provided since people are mostly floating or wading photos to the cave’s owner on a multimedia guides that took us through their particular through. device I’d brought. Later I sent some of them segments, starting at Camposantos in Cueva along to him, so you may well see some of Veronica. We emerged downstream at the If you find yourself in central Guatemala, these same photos posted at the cave… village of Muq’b’il Ha’, where our guides I recommend a visit to any of these caves, from Camposantos left us. Following a but if time is limited, Candelaria is by far the The Candelaria System hearty lunch at the Muq’b’il Ha’ visitor center, most spectacular. Of these three caves, the Candelaria we continued on with new guides from that is by far the most significant, but it actually village into a segment called Venado #2. A Photos below: Candelaria Lodge

NSS News, March 2008 23 The Underground Movement impacted areas lead towards some of the teams, and local television coverage. December 2007 room’s greatest features—the large selenite The group was found in a mazy Central Connecticut Grotto chandeliers that are the postcard images of section called the Poetry Passage. They Resource impact mapping in the Lech. Other off-the-main-trail routes lead to had attempted to mark their way using a Chandelier Ballroom of Lechuguilla Cave places where photographers set flash equip- supply of green leaves, one placed at each is the topic of a Ray Keeler report published ment to backlight the chandeliers, or lead to critical junction. Despite these markings, in this issue. Keeler led a four-day trip into the other areas with unique formations. they still became lost, though had enough cave to create a detailed map of the room, Keeler offers a variety of recommenda- food, water, and even batteries for their record foot traffic areas, and suggest resto- tions for restoration work, from doing nothing lights (but lacked hardhats). All exited without ration recommendations. Keeler’s mapping in the already heavily impacted areas, restor- incident, and, after a little coaching from crew consisted of Chris Beauchamp, Gary ing or hiding traffic in moderately impacted cavers, even braved the media frenzy that Bush, Jansen Cardy, Bob Jacobs, and Mark areas, and even the addition of flagging in awaited them. Andrich, with Andy and Bonnie Armstrong “off-trail” areas to support photography to Russell notes that despite the fact that taking documentary photographs. minimize additional impact. there is no formal agreement between cavers Two detailed maps of the room are and the local rescue units, all communicated published, showing the caver trails through The Texas Caver and cooperated very well together, making the Ballroom along with color-coded overlays 4th Quarter 2007 for a successful rescue. Russell does suggest showing pristine through heavily impacted Texas Speleological Association that a formal rescue call-down procedure areas. The original January, 1988, explor- A three-day holiday weekend provided should be put into place. Despite the public- ers carefully chose trails, and used a single an opportunity to continue the resur- ity, there seem to be no plans to restrict strip of flagging tape. The indeterminate vey of Texas’ Amazing Maze Cave. access to the cave. width of the trail led to the expansion of the Participants included Bill Bentley, Aimee impact areas laterally, and in July of 1996 Beveridge, Stephen Bryant, Geoff Hoese, Bill Steele says “there’s no such thing the trails were double-flagged. But still, off- Alexander Klimchouk, Philip Rykwalder, as too much light” when caving, and gives trail wandering does occur, and Keeler notes Geary Schindel, Bev Shade, Vickie Siegel, two thumbs up to a light he’s been using some are authorized, some are not. Peter Sprouse, Bill Stephens, and Pete manufactured by Pelican, also makers of the As one might guess, a lot of the heavily Strickland. waterproof boxes used by cavers. According With cavers arriving on Friday, Saturday’s to Steele, the Pelican 2680 is worthy of kickoff fielded 4 survey crews, with Sunday praise, with a bright Recoil 1-watt LED in fielding two. The weekend proved to be a a nearly indestructible (and waterproof to productive one, with the cave’s surveyed 500 feet) housing, that is powered by 4 AA length now over 1,800 meters long, and batteries. 18 meters deep. Rykwalder’s preliminary Steele says he gets a solid 12 hours draft of the survey so far accompanies his of light from a set of batteries, and that it report. The survey will continue as a winter will last beyond 15 hours. Steele does note project. a couple of drawbacks, one being that the battery pack and headpiece are a single unit, An October 14, 007 rescue in making it heavy on the helmet for some Airman’s Cave near Austin is detailed by cavers, and also that those who usually visit D.J. Walker and Bill Russell. A group of small caves may find the light too bright. three, two females and a male, had entered the cave for a recreational trip, and had The Hollow Earth News planned to travel to its end. The cave is December 2007 completely horizontal, mostly hands-and- Wisconsin Speleological Society knees or belly-crawling passage, with an Dawn Ryan heads to California to take extremely tight entrance known as The part in a restoration project at Crystal Keyhole. The cave has over 10,000 feet of Cave, a commercial cave located in Sequoia passage, and a round-trip to its end usually and Kings Canyon National Park. Ryan takes 8 to 12 hours for an experienced participated the fall restoration project, also group, with first-time round trips taking joined by 25 other cavers from California nearly 20 hours. and neighboring states. The project activi- The cavers entered the cave at 11:00 ties were coordinated by Joel Despain, Cave a.m. and had left instructions with another Resource Specialist at the Park. party that a rescue should be called if they One of the project goals was to remove hadn’t returned by midnight. Early in the a mound of debris in the cave’s second morning, at approximately 5:30 a.m., a call entrance, the remains of the destruction of a was made to emergency response agencies former restroom that had been built to serve and they were notified the group was over- tourists many years before. The restrooms due. An all-out rescue effort was initiated, had been leaking, and entering a nearby complete with 3,000 feet of communications creek. An old generator, which had been wire, staged “hasty search” and support leaking diesel fuel into the cave, had also

24 NSS News, March 2008 been removed. Other activities involved trail area, Springhill Cavern, was discovered The CIG Newsletter maintenance and narrowing them (to prevent just a short while later. The cave is also the December 2007 tourists from being able to touch formations) most highly decorated cave in the area. It Central Indiana Grotto and the partial removal of concrete slabs in was mapped over two trips in September, Dave Everton adds another to the Indian Marble Hall, the largest room in the cave. 1997, and June, 1998, to a length of 265 Cave Survey files with his report and map feet, and depth of 40 feet. of Covered Dome Cave, Orange County, Ryan also took part in a variety of survey Indiana. Everton got the scoop on the cave and inventory work in other parts of Sequoia, Kim Metzgar publishes a report and from Spike Selig, and found and surveyed it first performing a biological inventory in Lost map of another small cave in Wymps Gap, on October 28, 2006, with Al Clemons. Soldiers Cave with Joel Despain and Ben but perhaps one with great significance. Its entrance is in a shallow sink, and Tobin, Despain’s cave resources assistant. The cave is named Wolf Skull Cave after features a climb-down of about 13 feet Later in the week Ryan and Mike Springer a bone fragment found in a crevice dig just which intersects a walking passage going tackled Ten Minute Cave, which taped out outside its entrance. The bone fragment was in two directions. To the south, it leads to a at about 70 feet long. Ryan, Springer, and later identified as part of a wolf skull, likely hands-and knees-crawl which ends at a pool Tobin later surveyed and inventoried Walk from the Ice Age or possibly older. The cave of standing water with 18-inch logs jammed Softly Cave and Big Stick Cave, which was found by Bob Eppley, and surveyed into it. This part of the cave is obviously a surveyed to over 250 feet and are now closed by Eppley and Metzgar on September 12, flood route. to all until the next inventory in 4 years. 1998, to a length of 15 feet. In the other direction it leads to its Other cave maps and reports published namesake 15-foot-high dome, whose top Karst Chronicle in this issue include Leo’s Lair (25 feet is covered by wooden planks. The cave Winter 2007 - 2008 long), Mark’s Miserable Little Cave (10 taped out at 70 feet, with a vertical extent Mid-Atlantic Karst Conservancy feet long), Metzgar’s Miserable Little of 15 feet. This issue is devoted to a unique Fayette Cave (15 feet long), Polygra Pit (27 feet County, Pennsylvania karst area known as long), and Road’s End Cave (28 feet long). Most cavers keep a journal of some sort, the Wymps Gap Cave Area. One of the Metzgar notes that the area is threatened by and an article by Eric Higbie offers some first caves discovered was Gear Grabber renewed quarrying activities, and hopes that suggestions on what to do and what not to Grotto, which was dug open in 1997. The this report will help to chronicle its many do. Higbie makes his points by including cave was mapped by Dan Ballas and Alex karst features in hopes of preventing their some of his own journal pages. He suggests Baughamer to a length of 187 feet and depth destruction. using a pencil, rather than a pen, as the ink of 24 feet. Nearby, the largest cave in the will fade over time while a soft-leaded pencil

NSS News, March 2008 25 will last much longer. Higbie also suggests ing both caves seems to indicate that Three length of 65 feet, and Gypsum Cave #2 was documenting as you go, even using a “satel- Month Cave is related to Jessica’s, but no mapped to a length of 154 feet. lite” notebook, and transferring field notes to connection is possible. The cave is 11 feet Carter also adds a report on 2-10 the journal later. Scotch tape is also useful for long and 9 feet deep. Cave, also called Hanta Cave because attaching things to the journal’s pages, and everyone became ill after entering it when unlike the cheapo shiny tape variety, seems The Carbide Flash it was discovered. The cave is dusty, and to last for years. And finally, and perhaps December 2007 parts of it are filled with “thousands of years most importantly, Higbie suggests leaving Paha Sapa Grotto of poop.” Interestingly, some old cans were a few blank pages at the beginning of each Dan Austin’s photo of Dan Durben on found in one section, apparently used to dig journal so you can add a table of contents rope in Davenport Cave is on the cover, out the passage. The Pennington County when the volume is complete. and inside Austin delivers a detailed account- cave taped out at 162 feet long. ing of the resurvey of this Meade County, Wrapping up his list, Carter included The Region Record South Dakota cave. Austin did a recon trip two more Meade County caves, Regretfully Winter 2007 - 2008 into the cave in 2006, and was surprised by Yours Cave and Diamondback Cave, Virginia Region the enormity of its rooms, and also by the surveyed to 58 feet and 40 feet respectively. The Highland County Sinkhole Project fact that it ended so quickly. A check of the Diamondback got its name as Hall was exit- continues, and Janet Tinkham reports on original map showed a crawlway heading off ing through the tight entrance belly crawl, several cleanups during October, 2007. into parts unknown. Was there more to be and caught movement ahead of him. Leaning The target this time was a cluster of sink- found? This question initiated the resurvey to one side he found himself face to face with holes which had been filled with farm trash, project in late summer, 2006. a large rattler, which thankfully disappeared consisting mostly of old machinery, wooden The survey work continued through that into a side crack. fencing, and assorted household garbage. summer, and in October the cave was closed Over 20 cavers showed up, and all but the for hibernating bats, reopening again the Marc and Rene Ohms contribute maps largest pieces of machinery were hauled following June. As the project progressed, of a couple of Custer County Caves. Rat away. more and more cavers joined the team. The Hole had been known for several years, big rooms in the cave were resurveyed, and but had never been mapped. The cave is a Bats shouldn’t have white noses, but also the tight crawls beneath them that had vertical shaft within a shallow sinkhole, drop- some do, and it’s not a good sign. The white never been mapped. ping 32 feet to the cave’s floor. There’s no noses are actually caused by a fungus, and is One particularly promising, but horizontal passage, but the cave contains a suspected in the high mortality rates for bats extremely tight, crawl was named The Most variety of critters, including tiger salaman- in the winter of 2006-2007 in four Albany Horrible Crawl Ever. It never seemed to ders, numerous beetles, and millipedes. County, New York-area caves; Hailes Cave, end, but never got any bigger either. Finally Bad Luck Cave was a resurvey project Knox Cave, Schoharie Caverns, and a breakthrough was made into a small room for the Ohms’, who were joined by Andy Gages Caverns. Alan Hicks, of the New where cavers could sit up. The passage and Bonny Armstrong. The cave is gated York State Department of Environmental beyond the room eventually pinched, but to protect one of the largest hibernating Conservation, says that bat researchers sent with good air. Austin discovered later that colonies of Townsend’s Big-Eared bats in the to investigate the weird growth had never this new section was perpendicular to the entire Black Hills. The cave is also a cold air seen anything like it. original cave, and seemed to be heading off trap, with temperatures estimated in the mid- It’s not yet understood what happened, into a completely new area, and suggests a 40s. Marc takes an interest in the scatology or even if the fungus is directly related to the future party might find big discoveries off this of the cave, noting lots of porcupine poop deaths of thousands of bats, but Hicks asks new section of the cave. but little guano. The reason? The large popu- cavers to keep an eye out for bats showing The last survey trip was completed lation of hibernating bats don’t eat much over similar signs of disease, and cautions that in October, 2007, with the cave’s survey the winter, so they don’t poop much. Marc the fungus may be carried to other caves by pushed to 2,548 feet, doubling its original also notes that the caves in the Black Hills bats or cavers. length. This placed the cave in 10th place aren’t used much by bats in the summer, so among the longest in the state. large guano deposits aren’t usually found like The Highlander Austin’s amazingly detailed map accom- in other parts of the U.S. July-August 2007 panies the article, created from survey data Virginia Highlands Grotto reduced in Compass and drawn using Ulead Two Rockingham County additions Photoimpact and Xara Xtreme. This map are found in this issue, both dug open by seems destined to be a ribbon-winner at a Larry Baer, Brien Farris, Josh Rubinstein, future cartography salon. Chris Woodley, and “numerous area kids” SW China during December 2006 and January 2007. Carter Hall, with the contribution of October 16-31, 2008 Jessica’s Cave is the larger of the two, at Dean Faust’s maps, adds a couple more Exceptional travel off-the-beaten 154 feet long and 43 feet deep, and was small caves to the Fall River County list. track to classic karstlands surveyed by Woodley and Scott Wahlquist. Gypsum Cave #1 and Gypsum Cave #2 Leaders: Dwight Deal, PhD The cave starts out as a free climbable were mapped by Carter and Shirlee Hall, and ‘93 CRF China Caves Expedition chimney to a ledge, where a rope or ladder Faust, on September 16, 2007. Both had Mary Deal, China tours since 1981 is needed for the rest of the 20-foot drop. been visited previously by Hall, and on this Croatia and Slovenia Inside the cave some animal bones were trip he was surprised to discover that Gypsum Early September 2008 noted, and a large, calcite-encrusted, root. Cave #2 had been bored open by recent Learn more: [email protected] Three Month Cave is a nearby for-the- flooding. The cave pinched out eventually, 303-632-9254, Fax: 303-632-9255 record-only cave, mapped by Baer, Farris, but obviously continues and takes a lot of P.O. Box 61228, Denver, CO 80206 and Rubinstein. A cross-section map show- water. Gypsum Cave #1 was mapped to a

26 NSS News, March 2008 not) repay careful study. This last section environment. The book features 32 pages of is hard going, but if John over-analyses his detailed line drawings that can be colored in data, he at least doesn’t claim too much for by the artistic child. A set of colored pencils the results, and when he fits a line, he gives is recommended since the images are far the confidence intervals of the parameters, too detailed for crayons. Drawings include things that a lot of other cave geologists different types of caves (limestone caves, need to learn. lava tubes, sea caves, and ice caves), various This book was first finished and prepared kinds of cave life (trogloxenes, troglophiles, for printing in 1979. Then a short appendix and trogolobites), as well as a wide array was prepared for another attempt in 1985. of cave formations (soda straws, helictites, Finally, all the original copy was scanned stalactites, stalagmites, columns, drapery, and laid out anew for this successful attempt, bacon, shields, flowstone, moon milk, cave and the layout is quite nice. There are some balloons, anthodites, shelfstone, rimstone irregularities in type spacing, but that was dams, cave flowers, and cave pearls). required to keep the new computer typeset- Representative illustrations highlighting ting in sync with the index page numbers that select aspects of various commercial caves had been compiled years before. When the (Kartchner Caverns, Oregon Caves National Big Bone Cave and the Caves of Bone essentially free paper copies are exhausted, Monument, Carlsbad Caverns, Wind Cave, Cave Mountain: Cave Exploration, the book will be available in PDF form. Lehman Cave, Timpanogos Cave, and Jewel People who read these book reviews will Cave) are also included. Descriptions, Cartography, History, probably know about Larry Matthews’s book and Geologic Features of the Bone on Big Bone Cave that was published by the Each illustration is accompanied by a Cave Region, Van Buren County, NSS in 2006. That book is more historically short description that provides very useful oriented, but doesn’t really say much more information, such as how a particular cave Tennessee. than Smyre and Zawislak do in that area, formation develops or how a cave-dwelling John L. Smyre and Ronald L. Zawislak. and the new book says much more about animal fits into the ecological cycle of the Rocky River Press, Rock Island, Tennessee; 2007. ISBN 978-0-9779471-0-2. 8.5 by 11 the caves themselves. While the NSS book cave. A bit of history about the discovery of inches, softbound, xii+248 pages plus 16 remains interesting to speleo historians, its Arizona’s Kartchner Caverns helps breathe pages of black-and-white photos plus three main credit now must be that it shook loose, life into cave exploration. Budding cave folded maps in pocket. NSS members only, finally, Big Bone Cave and the Caves of Bone artists can select their own colors or caving one per household, $5 postpaid from John Cave Mountain parents can help by recommending color Smyre, 14635 Rocky River Road, Rock Bill Mixon schemes based on their own experience Island, Tennessee 38581. underground. In this regard, the book offers Rocky River Press is comprised of the a wonderful opportunity for parent-child authors, who printed over five hundred interaction. By the time a child is finished copies of this thing on their personal print- coloring in all of the images in the book, he ers and then had the color cover and binding or she will be quite knowledgeable about professionally done. They are selling it for caves and probably excited about actually barely more than it costs to box and mail it. visiting a commercial cave themselves (and They’re crazy, of course, but as far as I know then, hopefully, a wild cave). Alternatively, neither of them is actually institutionalized, the Caves Coloring Book is a great way to so I don’t feel guilty about having taken help a child remember an exciting family advantage. outing to a scenic commercial cave. The long-winded subtitle pretty much Danny A. Brass covers it, but it doesn’t tell you how extensive the material is. The history part covers the saltpeter-mining period and the paleontologi- cal discoveries that gave Big Bone its name. Fifty pages are devoted to the modern survey of Big Bone Cave and Bone Cave East, genetically related but so far unconnected, with extraordinarily detailed descriptions of ten miles of passages. The maps of these two CAVES: Coloring Book caves are in the map pocket. Then there are Benjamin Ilka. Rio Nuevo Publishers. descriptions of more than fifty other caves in Tucson, AZ. 2007. Paperback, 32 pages, the project area, with many maps, including 8¼” x 11” format, ISBN 978-1-933855- some foldouts. Some fifty pages contain an 30-1. Available for $5.95. extensive geological analysis of the caves Recommended for children with a by Smyre. It features many rose diagrams second grade reading level and up, the Caves of an unusual sort and a very detailed study Coloring Book is a wonderful activity book of passage meanders that might (or might to help introduce youngsters to the cave

NSS News, March 2008 27 bit of misdirection in the darkness. review the Slovenians’ work on the plateau Dunham, a Middle Mississippi Valley from 1974 through 1993, and a few pages Grotto caver and editor of The MMV at the end discuss the geology of the area Underground for many years, chose the and the caves. The bulk of the book consists Fall MVOR 2007, held the weekend before of reports of cave trips and other adventures Halloween, to debut this first novel, with during the annual expeditions, written by cover art and book design by fellow MMVer dozens of participants. It is illustrated by Bryan McAllister. Cavers who purchased maps showing the developing cave systems the book merely on the basis of knowing and many small black-and-white photos. (A the author were pleasantly surprised by this very few of them are in color in the PDF.) page-turner. The major caves on the plateau are If you are a caver whose literary tastes the Migovec System, 970 meters deep and run to psychological suspense combined 11.3 kilometers long, Gardeners’ World (or with decisive action, and cannot wait for Vrtnarija), 802 meters deep, and Primadona, Halloween to have the bejeebers scared out 597 meters deep. Like most Alpine caves, of you, this is the book for you. these consist mainly of pits connected by Jo Schaper gnarly, narrow canyons, although there is a long horizontal passage at the bottom of Gardeners’ World. Because of its many deep routes, the vertical components of the survey The Last Illusion shots in Migovec add up to 7.5 kilometers. (2007) by Don Dunham. Lost Worlds Press. Camps were set in the deeper two caves to Omaha, NE. Trade Paperback, 311 pages aid exploration, although they were occupied 6 x 9 format. ISBN 978-1-59916-400-7. by the same team for only one or two nights. $14.00 from the NSS Bookstore Cavers would typically descend and explore When stage magician Robert Saknussem for a day, sleep overnight, and then climb decided to leave the carnival and retire, he out the following day. had no idea that his investigations into his Recommended as an enjoyable collec- father’s long ago disappearance would lead tion of caving and camp tales by both new him to even more mysteries beneath the “freshers” and experienced “old lags.” The streets of St. Louis, Missouri and the render- price is certainly right. I suggest buying the ing of revenge on one of his father’s enemies printed version. You couldn’t print the PDF in the brotherhood of magicians. for that price, at least if you pay for the toner From Robert’s exit interview with fellow or ink, and it comes bound in a nice full-color magician Angelo, and his chance encounter cover.—Bill Mixon with Moses, the porter on the last run of the crack passenger train, the /River Eagle,/ NOTE: lulu.com also sells print-on- to his encounter with Diane, a waitress on demand bound copies of Al Warild’s Vertical, the graveyard shift, and the matchmaking The Hollow Mountain: Exploring still the best vertical-caving manual (206 aspirations of Robert’s slightly eccentric Aunt the Deep Caves of Tolminski Migovec, pages, see review in August 2002 NSS Marge, Dunham introduces the characters News), for $15 black-and-white printing or who will eventually play a part in the revela- Slovenia, 1974–2006. Edited by James Hooper, Clive Orrock, $40 color and Dr. D. F. Merchant’s very tion of the truth of what actually happened and Jarvist Frost. Imperial College Caving nice Life on a Line vertical-rescue manual to Robert’s father. Club, London; 2007. A4 size (about 11 3/4 (224 pages, see review in June 2003 NSS Along the way, Robert becomes an inches high), 244 pages, softbound. From News) for $27.13 for b&w and $50.73 unorthodox, yet thorough cave explorer. lulu.com, free 130 MB PDF download or color, plus, in all cases, shipping. In neither Dunham takes advantage of his knowledge $10.34 plus $3.78 shipping for printed book would the color version be worth the of the real network of caves beneath St. and bound copy. extra money. Louis to add an uncanny realism to an often “Most books and reports on caving and Bill Mixon Poe-esque dark and sometimes macabre mountaineering either aim to relate the facts mood, set in late October, and culminating of what was achieved or they aim to tell a at Halloween. story, to describe what it was like for one Dunham’s characters are well defined, or several of the individuals involved. This and his scenes and descriptions drawn in publications aims for both, and thus what ornate detail. Being a tale which takes place follows is a deliberate mix of surveys and largely within Robert’s mind leaves the silly cartoons, science and nonsense, tales of reader wishing for more human interaction exploration and stories of curries and visits and dialogue at times ­a fault which either to the [toilet] pit.” by design or accident borrows from the two The hollow mountain lies below the masters of this haunting genre ­the previously Migovec Plateau in the Julian Alps of north- mentioned Edgar Allen Poe, and the October western Slovenia, where the Imperial College Country tales of Ray Bradbury. The ending Caving Club has been having annual summer is by no means predictable ­as the reader expeditions in collaboration with Jamarska follows Saknussem through the catacomb- Sekcija PD Tolmin, the caving section of the like caves beneath the city, Dunham hides a Tolmin alpine club, since 1994. A few pages

28 NSS News, March 2008 Cave Conservancy Foundation graduate transcripts, and two letters of Ron Kerbo Receives DOI’s Second Graduate And Undergraduate recommendation, one being from the thesis Highest Honor Fellowship Awards advisor. Mail applications before June 1, On September 1st, Secretary The Cave Conservancy Foundation 2008 to Cave Conservancy Foundation, Kempthorne awarded the department’s will award an Undergraduate Fellowship in Attn: Graduate Fellowship Program, 13131 Meritorious Service Award to Ron Kerbo Karst Studies for $5000, an M.S. Graduate Overhill Lake Lane, Glen Allen, VA 23059. in recognition of his outstanding leadership Fellowship in Karst Studies for $5000, and The award will be announced by July 1, and advancement of sound stewardship of a Ph.D. Graduate Fellowship in Karst Studies 2008. For more information contact Dr. the cave and karst resources of the National for $15,000 in 2008. Any study of caves David C. Culver, at Department of Biology, Park System. and karst in any field, including but not American University, 4400 Massachusetts George Dickison, director of the Natural limited to archeology, biology, engineering, Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20016-8007, Resource Program Center, presented the geography, geology, and social sciences will via e-mail at [email protected]. award to Ron at a luncheon held in Denver on be considered. The research can involve any October 25th. From his early days, beginning cave and karst areas, including those outside Wakulla-Leon Sinks Connection in 1976 as the cave management special- the United States. Applicants must be full- On Dec 15, 2007, a WKPP divers ist for Carlsbad Caverns and Guadalupe time graduate or undergraduate students at team completed one of the world’s most Mountains National Parks, to his final posi- a U.S. college or university. remarkable cave dives. Casey McKinlay and tion with the Geologic Resources Division in Applicants for the undergraduate Jarrod Jablonski made this dive to erase the Natural Resource Program Center, Ron fellowship must include a letter of intent, any doubts about the connection between unfailingly demonstrated a commitment to a proposal of the research not to exceed Wakulla Springs and the Leon Sinks cave advancing the scientific understanding of 5000 words, a letter of support from the systems. The joined caves, now known as, park cave and karst resources and the imple- undergraduate advisor, and undergraduate the Wakulla-Leon Sinks Cave system, make mentation of sound resource management transcripts. Mail applications before May up the longest underwater cave in the United practices in the National Park Service. 1, 2008 to Cave Conservancy Foundation, States and the fourth longest underwater Today, over 3,900 caves are known to Attn: Undergraduate Fellowship Program, cave in the world. On this dive, the explor- exist in a total of 121 units of the National 13131 Overhill Lake Lane, Glen Allen, VA ers traveled a mind-boggling distance of Park System. Among Ron’s many achieve- 23059. The award will be announced by almost seven miles (36,000 feet). This feat ments was his tireless and successful work June 1, 2008. For more information contact set a world record as the longest cave dive to establish the National Cave and Karst Dr. Horton H. Hobbs III, at Department of between two entrances. The divers used Research Institute, located in Carlsbad, New Biology, Wittenberg University, P.O. Box rebreathers that allowed them to spend Mexico, which was designed to advance 720, Springfield OH 45501-0720, via e- nearly seven hours at a depth of about 300 scientific inquiry, understanding, sustainable mail at [email protected]. feet. This required them to spend another 15 management practices, and national and Applicants for the graduate fellowships hours decompressing to prevent them from international cooperation to protect cave (M.S. and Ph.D.) must include a letter of getting the bends. and karst resources in the United States intent, a curriculum vita, a thesis proposal, and abroad. Ron remains a well-recognized leader, cave and karst advocate, writer, photog- rapher, teacher and active member of the international and national cave and karst community. The Geologic Resources Division feels very privileged to have had Ron on its team. Submitted by Acting Chief - Dave Steensen, [email protected] From The USPS Morning Report, November 15, 2007 Submitted by Dale L. Pate

Deepest Caves of the Western Hemisphere I note that Donald McFarlane argues in the December, 2007 NSS News that I excluded some famous caves in Europe in my article on the deepest caves of the Western Hemisphere. Although strictly speaking parts of Western Europe would

NSS News, March 2008 29 be included because they are west of This was obviously my intention as well. Back-toBack Adventures the Prime Meridian, it is common prac- See, for example, http://en.wikipedia. tice to include only the Americas when org/wiki/Western_Hemisphere. South Of The Border referring to the Western Hemisphere. Mark Minton (continued from page 16)

much more than shorts and a short-sleeved shirt, I rejoiced in the womb of that dark splendor and settled into a dreamlike routine of swimming, paddling along, walking, NSS Speleo Digest Chairman Needed Volunteers needed. wading, gawking and smiling as I made my The Speleo Digest is one of Society’s Three positions are open in the depart- way along the ever comely passage. Some most important publications. They are an ment of the President. The National Cave 3 kilometers from the entrance of this most annual compilation of articles on caves and and Karst Management Symposium coordi- lovely cave laid a beautiful bloom of white caving published in grotto newsletters from nator, the NSS Nature Conservancy Liaison, formations protruding from the ceiling like around the United States. Speleo Digest and Grants Committee Chairman. ghostly fingers that we stared at with the Committee Chairman Scott Fee has done T h e N a t i o n a l C a v e a n d K a r s t strange curiosity that an alchemist wears an outstanding job overseeing the produc- Management Symposium Coordinator is on his face while watching his most recent tion of over a decade of the Speleo Digest. responsible for planning and running the bien- potion unfold from a smoky haze. It was Regrettably, Scott has decided to step down, nial National Cave and Karst Management one of those days when the song inside me and move on to other projects. I want to Symposium. The next symposium is in sprang forth and serenaded the world with thank him for his time, talent, and effort. 2009. my happiness. I am also searching for a Chairman for The Nature Conservancy (TNC) is the the NSS Members Manual Committee, to owner or manager of a significant number Yaxlik serve as Editor. The Chairman, who reports of important caves. A Memorandum of Beyond a stooping entrance series slimy directly to the NSS Executive Vice President, Understanding has been developed between with black bat guano laid a pool that we all will be responsible for the complete produc- the NSS and the TNC, which expresses our swam across. In the large room beyond tion process, including: gathering the text, mutual interests and is a basis for coopera- we climbed a short sand mound and found photos, and information; editing material; tion on joint projects. The Liaison helps NSS ourselves in a yawning borehole of gigantic completing the layout and design, and members and IOs locate TNC cave projects proportions staring us down. A few hundred arranging the printing and shipping. and assist the TNC in locating volunteers to meters later the passage was going at full tilt The candidate needs to be self-moti- help with projects. and bowed out to that confusing size that is vated, a good communicator, and be able The Grants Committee chairman both borehole and extremely large room, to work independently, lead a committee provides support for grant applications and then the ceiling dove down, down and of volunteers, organize tasks, take initiative, for the Society. The Grant Committee is we found a tidy sump pool with no way on and work towards goals. The chairman will responsible for submitting grant proposals to but to dive. Unable to continue, we split up write a short status report on the committee’s appropriate private foundations and govern- into two survey parties and started surveying activities three times a year for inclusion in ment agencies to further the interests and out. In two days we surveyed this spacious the Executive Vice President’s report to the goals of the Society. cave which would prove to be the last great Board. Anyone interested should contact Bill find of the trip. After we finished we packed We need your help! Please contact Tozer at [email protected]. up our bags and our small convoy of trucks Gordon Birkhimer [email protected] for a ground and lumbered its way across coffee detailed job description and to apply for this hills, treed slopes, and past foot-packed trails important position. of brown and orange. The spell of adventure had not worn off, it was just time to head back north again. With our bodies worn down from the pack straps, the sweating, the rope climb- ing and our eyes eager to alight on more Firefly Slaves for cave photography: FF 2 ($75) also conduct wild cave tours. Low cost housing. familiar faces and places, we all arranged and FF 3 ($110) for digital. CD “On Three: An Operated by non-profit Sequoia Natural History our return plans and started the trickle intro to digital photography for cavers” ($15). Association. Application available at www. northward. Charley and I got on another bus New: Cave Cards! individual ($3.50) or sets sequoiahistory.org or call 559-565-3759. of six cards ($18) with stunning cave photos, CAVER T-SHIRTS and other great gifts! and made our way west across the Yucatan envelopes. See newly updated website: www. www.cafepress.com/caveformations peninsula and reversed our course back to pjcaver.com. V/MC/AMEX/Check. SITDCP, 80 Austin. After many days sweating in tents Mountain St, Camden, ME 04843. 207-236-6112. and feeling our stomachs punish us for our [email protected] AD RATES: 50 cents per word, with a 10% many experiments with local food it was a TOP DOLLARS PAID FOR NI-BA CARBIDE CAP discount for prepaid ads running three months or welcome respite to feel air conditioning on LAMP, carbide cap lamps, oil wick/lard lamps, longer. The following count as one word each: blasting cap tins, scatter tags, lamp parts, and P.O. box #; street address; city; state & zip; phone our arms and to have familiar foods in our other small mining artifacts. Contact Larry Click, number. E-mail or web addresses exceeding 10 bellies. It was time to replace our energy 703-241-3748 or e-mail [email protected] characters count as two words. Payment must reserves and to stretch out at a booth with a precede publication, but copy should be e-mailed Help wanted: Crystal Cave tour naturalist/guides to the editor ([email protected]), to reserve beer in hand and tell some stories. Over the and visitor center bookstore clerks. Live and work space. Copy should be received six weeks prior to next few days, weeks, and months, our tales in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks publication date (e.g., by May 15 for July issue). this summer. Naturalists conduct walking tours Make checks payable to the National Speleological would become all too familiar to friends and and special programs; clerks work side by side Society and send to: NSS News Advertising, 107 it will be time make new stories on the next with national Park rangers. Experienced guides Avonbrook Road, Wallingford, PA, 19086. trip south of the border.

30 NSS News, March 2008 Above: Following the Flow, Below: In the Light, by John by Mary Gratsch, was taken in Lovaas, was taken in Cueva Cueva Oqueba in Guatemala. Culebrones, Puerto Rico. Merit Merit Award, 2007 Print Salon. Award, 2007 Print Salon.

NSS News, March 2008 31 MARCH 2008