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Pecinan As an Inspiration 557 556 WacanaWacana Vol. Vol.18 No. 18 2No. (2017): 2 (2017) 556-580 Wiwi Tjiook, Pecinan as an inspiration 557 Pecinan as an inspiration The contribution of Chinese Indonesian architecture to an urban environment Wiwi Tjiook ABSTRACT Since the abrogation of Presidential Instruction Number 14/1967 which banned Chinese customs celebrations and religion in public, there has been a revival in Chinese festivals, language, art, media, culture and not in the least in the field of architecture and urban planning. With increasing interest in heritage and the support of the Indonesian government for heritage cities programmes, several promising initiatives involving Chinese architecture have been launched in cities both large and small. A brief glance of the history of Chinese Indonesian architecture is given, as well as some recent initiatives in selected cities plus a discussion of the importance of public space in accommodating Chinese festivals. Study of old maps and photographs prompts reflections on the characteristics and development of Pecinan during the colonial era and of their later history. The analysis in this article and examples of recent developments in the cities discussed can be used as an inspiration in the revitalization of Pecinan, thereby contributing in an attractive and livable urban environment. KEYWORDS Pecinan; urban revitalization; city branding; liveable city. INTRODUCTION In the past few years, a renewed interest for Pecinan, Chinese wijk or Chinese Indonesian neighbourhood has been perceptible in various cities throughout Indonesia. The abrogation of Presidential Instruction (Instruksi Presiden) Number 14/1967 in 2000,1 under which customary Chinese celebrations and 1 In Presidential Decree (Keputusan Presiden) Nr 14/1967, issued under President Suharto, Ir Wiwi Tjiook MSc, is a landscape architect working for the City of Rotterdam, a volunteer at Chinese Indonesian Heritage Center (CIHC) and a driver in the Taskforce Livable Cities of the Indonesian Diaspora Network (IDN). Her expertise is in landscape and urban design, with a passion for integrated water and landscape planning. She has worked on projects throughout Southeast Asia, the United Kingdom and Australia. Since 1999 she has worked for several municipalities in the Netherlands, responsible for all stages of landscape design. Wiwi Tjiook can be contacted at: [email protected] © 2017 Faculty of Humanities, Universitas Indonesia Wiwi Tjiook| DOI: 10.17510/wacana.v18i2.596. 556 Wacana Vol. 18 No. 2 (2017) Wiwi Tjiook, Pecinan as an inspiration 557 religion were banned in public, has sparked new interest in the rediscovery of them, and the characteristic neighbourhoods in which the Chinese lived, often called Pecinan (see Images 1 and 2). As this interest has been growing, the “Program Penataan dan Pelestarian Kota Pusaka” (P3KP) or Management and Conservation of Heritage Cities”2 has been exerting more influence among municipalities and is stimulating communities to restore the neighbourhoods in which they live and/or work. Within the framework of P3KP, municipalities can apply for funding for certain heritage-related projects. This in turn stimulates parties to renovate parts of previously abandoned historical buildings and areas. These two facts have contributed to a number of interesting recent initiatives in Pecinan or Chinatowns. The current economic growth and the rise of the middle class in Indonesia are important factors in the renewed interest in heritage. Image 1. Chinese procession in Surabaya, around 1900 (Chinese optocht te Soerabaja) (photo courtesy KITLV: image code 27462). Chinese language, religion, celebrations, even Chinese names, were banned in an attempt to create a unified Indonesian identity. This decree was abrogated by President K.H. Abdurrahman Wahid in 2000 under Presidential Decree Nr 6/2000. See also: http://www.hukumonline.com/. By Decree Nr 13/2001, the Ministry of Religious Affairs declared Chinese New Year a facultative official holiday. Presidential Decree Nr 19/2002 issued under President Megawati Soekarnoputri finally declared Chinese New Year s an official holiday commencing in 2003. 2 In 25 October 2008, the Indonesian Heritage Cities Network ((Jaringan Kota Pusaka Indonesia, JKPI) was founded in Surakarta. Currently, JKPI has 48 members and more are expected to join. In 2012, the Directorate General of Spatial Planning of the Indonesian Ministry of Public Works and the Indonesian Heritage Trust/Badan Pelestarian Pusaka Indonesia (BPPI) launched a programme to support JKPI. The purpose of this programme, Management and Conservation of Heritage Cities (Program Penataan dan Pelestarian Kota Pusaka, P3KP) is to offer training and capacity building to local governments involved. 558 Wacana Vol. 18 No. 2 (2017) Wiwi Tjiook, Pecinan as an inspiration 559 Image 2. Ceremonial arch in the Chinese camp on the occasion of the wedding of Queen Wilhelmina and Duke Hendrik van Mecklenburg-Schwerin, 1903 (Erepoort bij de Chinese kamp te Batavia ter gelegenheid van het huwelijk van Koningin Wilhelmina en Hertog Hendrik van Mecklenburg-Schwerin) (photo courtesy KITLV: image 81336). A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF CHINESE SETTLEMENT IN INDONESIA The Chinese have been passing through and settling in the Indonesian Archipelago since as early as the second century CE after the establishment of the maritime trading route between China and India.3 The coastal regions of Southeast Asia were the first places in which new cities appeared to service this international trading network. Of particular importance are the voyages of Admiral Zheng He between 1405 and 1433 CE.4 Tangible traces can be found along the coastal regions in the form of Chinese trading-posts and colonies, situated near river estuaries and well integrated into earlier settlements alongside indigenous villages. Some of the early settlements grew into flourishing entrepôts,5 as international maritime trading networks and activities flourished. Some of the trading hubs expanded into very large emporiums.6 Chinese architecture in Indonesia was introduced by Chinese traders and migrants who travelled to coastal places in the Indonesian Archipelago 3 Johannes Widodo 2007. 4 See also Timeline (at the end of this article). 5 “An entrepot is a small port city with few local commodities, formed and developed in coastal regions of Southeast Asia because of international trading network between China, India, Persia, Arabia and Europe” (Widodo 2004: 67). 6 “An emporium combined strong components of the indigenous city and the foreign settlements, while the market was the place of exchange of local commodities and international merchandise” (Widodo 2004: 67). 558 Wacana Vol. 18 No. 2 (2017) Wiwi Tjiook, Pecinan as an inspiration 559 between the fifth and tenth century. However, since non-durable materials were used in these first settlements, nothing has been recovered. Between 1400 and 1600, Chinese traders established themselves in the independent Islamic states along the north coast of Java and the east coast of Sumatra. In the Chinatowns of these cities, usually in the vicinity of the harbour, Chinese stone-built temples were constructed. Initially the temples were dedicated to Dewi Mazu (also called Tian Hou), the patron of the sailors. As the architecture of the temples developed, it was strongly influenced by the feng shui guidelines which prevailed in mainland China. One characteristic feature is the open square in front of the temple, which is used as an assembling place for processions, for wayang potehi (Chinese puppet show) and other purposes.7 8 Image 3. Map of Batavia on the occasion of the Chinese rebellion in 1740 (Plattegrond van Batavia naar aanleiding van de Chinese opstand van 1740).8 From the seventeenth century, the Chinese community was an important part of the Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost Indische Compagnie/ VOC) harbour cities. In Batavia, until 1740 the Chinese live among the Europeans within the city walls. Many were active traders and members of the 7 Leushuis (2011: 24). 8 “Atlas of Mutual Heritage”, (http://www.atlasofmutualheritage.nl/nl/Plattegrond- Batavia-aanleiding-Chinese-opstand-1740.4439). 560 Wacana Vol. 18 No. 2 (2017) Wiwi Tjiook, Pecinan as an inspiration 561 community were directly appointed by the VOC to run the trade with China, but among them were also numbers of shopkeepers, craftsmen, tax collectors, etcetera. Because their chosen occupations, the Chinese lived strategically close to the Dutch military posts and the local markets. By around 1740 the economic malaise and the poor financial and administrative conditions prevailing under the VOC were also affecting the Chinese. Although Chinese immigration to Batavia had boomed in the years prior to 1740, most newly arrived immigrants failed to find work. Attempts by the Dutch authorities to limit immigration failed. The “illlegal” Chinese population in and around Batavia swelled, leaving them a prey to extortion. In mid-1740, a decision was taken by Governor-General Adriaan Valckenier and member of the Council of the Indies, Gustaaf Willem Baron van Imhoff, to seize and deport all Chinese without valid documents. Rumours spread among the Chinese that the deportees were simply being thrown overboard. Riots stirred up by so-called Chinese rebels living in the countryside broke out. Although initially open to negotiations, the VOC soon decided that the city had to be cleared of the Chinese by violence. An estimated 10, 000 Chinese fell victim during this massacre (see Image 3 depicting
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