phesus Selçuk located on the western edge of the Aegean FROM APASAS TO EPHESUS SELCUK Region of Turkey, lies 73 New excavations in Çukuriçi was probably situated on the Ekilometers South of İzmir on the İzmir-Aydın highway, and 9 kilome- Hüyük take Ephesus Ayasuluk Hill. ters east of Pamucak, which is on the Selcuk back approx- Legend says that Ephesus seashore and has clean natural sandy imately 8600 years. was founded on the slopes beaches and crystal clear waters. Here, a settlement that of the Mount Panayır in Ephesus Selcuk has an area of 295 lasted until the end around 1000 BC by Androk- square kilometers. The region enjoys of the Bronze Age los, the son of the king of a typical Mediterranean climate. begins a journey to Athens, Kodros. This city’s The cultivation of cotton, olives, today’s Ayasuluk Hill, population was made up of grapes, peaches and citrus fruits is the driving force in the economy, in the middle of mod- Anato- lian peoples, in addition to the tourism industry. ern Ephesus Selcuk a The town can about 10.000 visitors. journey that still goes Ephesus Selcuk, the beginning of on… whose history date back to 6000 B. Apasas, a city mentioned in C., is an important center for three Hittite documents relating to sus. Findings from religions, all of which spread throu- the second half of the second the excavations ghout the world. It was first a center millenium BC, was probably on Ayasuluk Hill of pagan worship in the polytheist located in an area near Ephe- world of antiquity. The Temple of show that Apa- Artemis, one of the seven wonders sas, the of the world, is a good example of capital of this. Christianity was disseminated Western from Ephesus Selcuk by St. John Anatolia’s and his disciples. The Church of the Arza- Virgin Mary, the Church of St. John, wa-Mira and the Tomb of St. John are im- Kingdom, portant buildings from this period. The Isabey Mosque is a significant which was example of architecture from the semi-dependent on Islamic era. the Hittite Empire, Carians, Lelegians, and Lydians, before the coming of the Ionian Greeks. An- cient sources suggest that Apasa was founded by the Amazons, and also had such names as Alope, Ortygia, Amorge, Smyrna Trakhia, Haimonion, Ptelia. Histori- cally however, it was mostly known as Ephesus. This ancient city was forcibly relocated to a site surrounding the Temple of Artemis by the Lyd- ian king Croesus in 560 BC. Subsequently, it was refounded in its current location by Lysimakhos, one of the successors of Alexander the Great, because the original site was silting up due to the action of the River Cayster and slowly turning into a swamp. A wall nine kilome- ters in length and ten meters in height surrounded this new city which was located in the valley between Mount Panayır and Mount Pion. reason for this and important churches were built over this particular grave. The new city began to develop from the 7th century AD around the Aya- suluğ Hill, where the Ayasuluk Castle is located. It acquired its new name, Hagios Lysimakhos named this new Theologos city after his wife Arsinoe. (The Holy The settlement was made Theologian), up of orthogonal streets from the ti- constructed in a way that re- tle original- flected contemporary urban ly given to planning. Soon however the St. John. city was once more called Since the Ephesus. beginning In the Byzantine period, the of the 14th city was relocated for the last century, when time, owing to the silting of the Turks arrived the harbour, when the pop- in the region, the ulation of Ephesus ended up name of the town once more on Ayasuluk Hill was once more trans- where the earliest discoveries formed from the Greek were made. The site of St. Hagios Theologos to the John the Evangelist’s buri- more Turkish Ayasuluk/Aya- al was the most important suluğ. Subsequently, when to decline, the changed to Selçuk on Ottomans also 16 November 1914 referred to and in 1941 it the city as was located in “Vi- the district ranşe- of Şirince hir– until that City of was closed Ru- down. On 1 i n s”. January 1943, Some the Munici- 17th pal Council of cen- Ephesus Selcuk tury was founded with sources 57 staff members as also have a part of the township the name of Kuşadası – Akıncılar porated into the Province of “Akçaabad Nahiye Department. Aydın, Ephesus Selcuk on nâm-i diğer (also On 19 June 1957, the town- the other hand was given municipality status in the it was the known as) Ayasu- ship of Kuşadası was incor- Province of Izmir. capital during the luğ”. We also encounter the 14th century Aydınoğulları name “Akıncılar” given to the Emirate, the name Ayasuluk inhabitants. was even corrupted to the The current name “Selçuk”, more Italian “Alto Luogo” in however, is the result of the Genoese trade agreements. nationalist policies of the During the Ottoman period, Committee of Union and “Ayasuluk/Ayasuluğ” con- Progress, who simply named tinued to be used. Because towns and townships with the flourishing city of the Turkic names. The name Aydınoğulları then started Ayasuluğ was officially

facing the nave (central aisle) bear their monograms. Persecution Gate forms the entrance to the walls of the Byzantine fortification, and is decorated with reliefs depicting scenes of pursuit from the life of Achilleus. It probably dates back to the sixth or seventh century AD. Ayasulug Hill and to the Church of BYZANTINE St.John- a pilgrimage centre of the Middle Age. The 15-metre high aq- AQUEDUCTS ueducts were built with the marble Only a few city centres in the world stones originating from Ephesus and EPHESUS the city settlement moved around still host Byzantine aqueducts. Start- Artemision. Thanks to the then-day The first establishment of the the Temple of Artemis in 560 BC. ing from St.John’s Persecution Gate, construction technique, today’s visi- Ephesus Ancient City dates back Today’s Ephesus which enchants its passing through Selcuk train station tors can enjoy the magnificent view 6000 BC at Neolithic Age. The visitors was established by Lysim- and heading towards the North, of this Byzantine heritage. Ephesian geography also hosted akhos, a general of Alexander the the ruins of Byzantine aqueducts prehistoric settlements in mounds, great, in 300s BC. make Selcuk’s city centre one of the human activity during the Bronze Due to movements of human gifted places in the Aegean. The AYASULUG CASTLE Age in Ayasulug Hill and human settlement at different time periods, aqueduct had been used to deliver Constructed at the top of the Aya- settlements belonging to the Hittites. Ephesian remnants spread over a potable water from natural springs sulug Hill, the Citadel welcomes the The name of the city was Apasas wide area of around 8 km². Exca- located between Belevi and Selcuk visitors of Selcuk with a picturesque during the Hittites era. Ephesus, as a vations and restorations were held to the Byzantine settlement at the view resembling a crown on the coastal port city, received migrants within this area to better present the from Greece in 1050s BC well before remnants of this great ancient city.

BASILICA OF ST. JOHN The basilica of St. John was built over the tomb of St. John, the creator of one of the four Gospel accounts. The church, which was donated by the Emperor Justinian and his wife Theodora, is cruciform and roofed with six massive domes. The capitals top of the hill. The surviving stone ing examples of Islamic culture hosts her days after the Resurrection of the British-made wood-burning lo- walls date back to Selcuk-Ottoman Selcuk. Christ. The house, therefore, is ac- comotive of which there is only 2 left era. The citadel is fortified with 15 cepted as one of the holy pilgrimage in the world. If you are eager to go towers and there are five cisterns GALESION CASTLE destinations. The place, which is deeper in what this Museum offers, inside of the citadel. A partly-visi- The castle -locally known as the currently owned by the Association you can find a toilet from 1850s and ble minaret belongs to the Citadel goat’s citadel- is located in the 9th of the Virgin Mary’s House, was a very old 900 metre-long tunnel. Mosque located in the Southern km of Selcuk-Torbali highway. The discovered by Lazarists of Izmir in part of the centre. In essence, the citadel is at the height of 300 metres 1891 and was accredited as a place Ayasulug Citadel provides a brilliant over the hill. Visitors should keep of pilgrimage. first impression of Selcuk. an eye on the top of the antique Galesion hill to see the magnificent posture of the castle. The hill hosts ruins from Hellenistic to Byzantine period. The Galesion hosted an important monastery where Lazarus of Bethany taught his teachings in the 12th century. Three priests edu- EPHESUS SELCUK cated in this remarkable monastery COLLECTIVE SELCUK CAMLIK became patriarchs. MEMORY CENTER OUTDOOR STEAM This outstanding building harbours ISABEY MOSQUE LOCOMOTIVE MUSEUM a wide variety of objects, photo- The mosque was constructed by HOUSE OF VIRGIN MARY This interesting museum is located graphs, ephemera, books and doc- the architect Ali ibn Al-Dimishki According to Christian narrative, in Camlik Village, on the way from uments demonstrating the heritage from Damascus in 1375 as ordered Virgin Mary together with St.John Selcuk to Aydin. The museum was of the town’s collective memory. by Aydinoglu İsa Bey. Architectural had arrived in this region and lived established to commemorate Tur- Visitors are invited to familiarise pieces, collected from Ephesus and key’s first railway plantation themselves with Selcuk’s attracting the Temple of Artemis, were used between Izmir and Aydin tradition of tobacco cultivation as in the construction of this mosque. (dates back to 1866). Active well as the city’s 8600 years of histo- Tiles, marble works and stone crafts since 1991, the Museum ry. Contrast and continuity between ornament the interior of this elegant hosts nearly 30 vapour the past and present find their piece of architecture. The essential locomotive having German, spatial meaning in this old masonry aesthetic of Isabey Mosque, along British, French, American, structure, constructed in the second with the ruins of other mosques in Swedish, and Czechoslova- half of the 19th century and was Selcuk, demonstrates how outstand- kian origins. One of these is used as the Regie Warehouse during the Ottoman Empire. Visitors are The most unique piece of the to better discover the Myth of reputation among the Pagan world more than welcome to feel the sin- museum is the sculpture of the Seven Sleepers on the ground. to Artemis which has traces of ritu- cere warmth of the collective mem- Ephesian Artemis. In contrast als from Eastern religions, combines ory and cultural heterogeneity of the with the Greek and Latin mythol- TEMPLE OF more than one godly essence, and town. In this center, you may find a ogy where Artemis is a sign of ARTEMIS has the ability to address peoples of unique opportunity to be a part of virginity, in Ephesus, Artemis Asia Minor. The Temple of Artemis As the first temple made of the continuous collective memory represents a maternal goddess is considered as the continuation marble in the Ancient World, studies aiming at increasing urbanite as a sign of fertility. As one of Kubaba of Hittites and Kybele the Temple of Artemis is one identity in Selcuk. of the Seven Wonders of of Phrygians. Visitors have often of the Seven Wonders of the the World, the Ephesus been enchanted by the magnificent World. Temple of Artemis is historical background of the Temple EPHESUS SELCUK Although the area that dedicated for this mater- in Selcuk, Ephesus. MUSEUM harboured the Temple of nal goddess. Having its first traces back in 1929, Artemis was home to var- ancient pieces from Ephesus started ious sacred idols during the to be collected and the construc- THE SEVEN preceding Ancient Kingdoms, tion of the first part of this modern SLEEPERS the Temple was undoubtedly museum was completed in 1964. The Seven Sleepers is a site a Wonder in terms of its ar- Among the outstanding inventory dedicated to the Myth of the chitectural symbolism, artistic of the Museum, there are sculptures Seven Sleepers emerged at the influence,design excellence of Artemis, Eros on Dolphin, Head time of Emperor Theodosius and magnificence. As a result of Eros, Priapos, Egyptian Priest, II circa 450 AD. The site was of a 120-year lasting work, the Isis, other mythological gods and transformed into a Church of construction of the Temple goddesses, and head of Socrates. tombs at Byzantine period. Ac- having 36 columns adorned POLLIO AQUEDUCTS Outside the city, on the road be- cording to the narrative, with reliefs was completed. In tween Tralleis (modern day Aydın) at the time of Decius, as of the 356 BC, a mentally deranged Ephe- and Magnesia, a great architectural Late Roman Emperors, Seven sian named Herostratos burned the structure lies with its excellence: Christian believers that were Temple in a night when Alexander Pollio Aqueducts. Passing over the escaping from the persecution the Great was born. At the end of still-alive rivers of Selcuk, asym- of idolaters, were sheltered in the 4 century BC, the repairment metrical inscription written on the these caves nearby Panayir was completed and the Temple ancient stones of the aqueducts Mountain and fell into a 200- remained alive until being burnt by reveals that an ancient road used to year long sleep at the end of the Goths in 263 AD. pass under the aqueducts. Two lines which they woke up as Saints. Artemis is the chief goddess of of inscription, Latin and Greek, also The city of Selcuk invites you Ephesus. The ancient city owes its indicates that the C. Sextilius Pollio, as Kirkince-Çirkince. The first 2006. Thirteen his wife Ofillia Bassa and his son-in- one of these was the advantageous different fish law C. Offilius Proculus financed positioning of the village on the species live in the construction of the aqueducts mountain providing the necessary this lake. and devoted it to Augustus, Tiberius means for defense against enemy and to Ephesian people. The Pollio attacks. Secondly, the people of ÇAKAL aqueducts is a part of a larger struc- Efes and Ayasuluk Village wanted LAKE ture constructed by the Emperor to put as much distance as possible The Çakal Augustus named Aqua Throessitica between themselves and the malaria Lake admin- providing water to Ephesus. The disease originating from the swamp istratively is Pollio Aqueducts is worth dis- created by the Small Menderes located within the boundaries of the BELEVİ LAKE covering for feeling the inherited River. Thirdly, the area was rich in Barutçu district. Çakal Lake is with- (PEGASOS LAKE) atmosphere of this magnificent terms of water resources, productive in the boundaries of an Important The Belevi Lake administratively ancient structure. soil and great climate. Bird Area (IBA). Also this wetland is is located within the boundaries home for 12 fish species. of the Belevi district. Being the Throughout history, many settle- largest lake in the region, the Belevi ments were founded in the area and Lake hosts various fish, bird and Çakal Lake even in the ancient times mammal species. Therefore is a was a wetland for human activities. regionally significant wetland. Not The lake also existing during the having an assessed conservation period of Strabo was called “Se- status, the wetland is an important linousia”. According to Strabo, the activity area for sportfishermen privilege for fishing at the Selinousia coming from local and surround- lake belonged to the temple of Arte- ing settlements. The Belevi Lake is mis at Ephesus (Strabo, 2000). home to 6 fish species.

ŞİRİNCE VILLAGE GEBEKİRSE GÖLÜ The establishment of the village, Gebekirse Lake is located in which was called “Ephesus on the Zeytinköy Village and is admitted Mountain”, dates back to the 5th within the boundaries of Important Century A.D. A few factors played Bird Area. Gebekirse Lake and its a role in the settlement of people surroundings are protected as eco- in this area and the establishment logical heritage with the declaration of the village that was once named of wildlife development area since