The history of the Easteregg dress of my dreams in Milanese See more on page 8-9 technique See more on page 14

Member magazine for The Danish Lace Association February 2018 130 Dear members Happy new year. I hope you are all do- bulletin, as this is our most important the board. 1. Substitute, Lea Gamborg ing well. I also hope that you all enjoyed impression of us for the outside world. It has therefore taken Charlotte Zachau’s Christmas, New Year, being together is a magazine many talk about and look place on the board. with family and friends, and also hope forward to receive. We need to follow that you could find some quiet time the trends and through this attract new You will find the program for the Annu- with your lace pillow. members. All our efforts have resulted al meeting and the General Meeting in in the magazine you are holding in your this publication, and we look very much What you have in your hands right now, hands and we hope it is to your liking. forward to see many of you in Odense on is our new design of Kni­plebrevet. The March 17th. Peter participates with an board and the editorial office hope that We have with this, started a proses, open workshop. You do not need to sign you like it. which we hope that our members wants up, just come in and try Dogme lace. You to participate in. Help us in this hope- need not bring anything, as there will be You might want to ask, why? Yes, why? fully positive proses, which we hope, you pillows for trying out. Then to the Friend- Our association has existed for 35 years will support. We wish to attract new ship quilt: If you wish to have your piece and is therefore an older establishment and especially younger members and at of lace on the quilt, which will be on dis- with a membership bulletin which has the same time hold on to our present play at Kniplings-festivalen I Tønder in stayed about the same through all these faithful members, in order to make our 2019, we would appreciate you bringing years. With a steadily falling member- common interest live on. We all have to it to the Annual Meeting. In this way we ship we had to realize that something welcome new members, invite them into will have plenty of time to make the quilt, had to be done for us to attract new our midst and help them mastering this or perhaps a couple of them. members. Our biggest wish is that we fine hand craft. will survive and stay an attractive or- We look forward to seeing many of you ganization with an exciting magazine. Since last, Chalotte Zachau announced for the Annual Meeting in Odense. We therefore contacted an advertising short after summer vacation that she for company, which told us to look at our personal reasons, was not able to stay on

The new graphic staff... When you read these words, there will be more than one year ago that we started to work together with Foreningen Knipling i Danmark. And we enjoy it! Written by Lone Frost

t has been an exciting task for us to de- know you better - and in particular - cre- We love it - and now also lace making. Ivelop a design for your association, more ate an urge to learn this beautiful craft, lace modern in it appearance, and we hope it making. It is a trade which through hun- We - who are we? - Lone and Cecilia will appeal also to young lace makers. dreds of years have been an everyday part Frost. Mother and daughter, together 45 of women’s tradition in Denmark. We are years of experience with graphical work. We have developed a new logo, a new line ourselves involved in lots of handy-crafts. We are located and work together on a of note-paper, envelopes, membership We enjoy crocheting, knitting, embroi- wonderful old-fashioned farm outside cards and a wide variety of other products, dery, paper collage, and we also make our Nyborg, where we also have a B&B. which all together should make the asso- own cards, we draw, make graphics and ciation more modern and inviting. Our paint. Therefore, if there is something we We look forward to making strategies for hope is that the new identity will give po- have an understanding for, it has to be the the future together with your association tential members the inclination to get to fascination of working with our hands. and to get to know you - and lace - better. 4 Lace trip To Switzerland, South France, Belgium, The Netherlands and Germany. Part 2. Written by Karen Vontillius

he trip visiting different lace centers was able to make 10 cm. lace, 4 meters owned it since 1871, and it contained Talso led us to other nice places wide, in no time. Handmade lace and all kinds of lace. without lace museums, like for ex. to 2 machine-made lace were exhibited and visits to vineproducers. lots of garments, very nicely displayed. Our lunch was in a wonderful colorful boutique, and even here they had laced The next stop on our trip was Avignon. We visited the wonderful lace school in walls, painted over with black, but were I can really recommend visiting this Bailleul, only 87 km. from Bruges and decorative. town. It is a town still marked by the 30 km. from Lille. Here we got to see time when the pope resided in his pa­ what the French ladies had on their pil- Our trip ended at Bochholt lace in the middle of town. The palace lows. It was everything from the wildest museum. One of the most important is well taken care of and it is easy to see colors to the most elegant lace, so we weaving- and spinning mills in German how costly it must have been. But it was took pictures, nodded our heads and textile industry through 150 years. The fantastic to see. It was for ex. a stage in said oh and ah. The headmaster told us production stopped in 1973 but was re- the big yard of the palace. We were so about their classes, also for children, 4 built after historical model in 1984. It lucky to experience the international days weekly with classes for adults and was enormous. A gigantic weaving hall, music-day there on the last evening. 1 day weekly with classes for children. gigantic spinning hall and a house for Streets and cafés were full of people and the workers including a vegetable gar- music flowed out of stages all around We came to Bruges, the one and only den, as it used to be. town and along the river. pretty Bruges, lace center and choco- late center. We were driven to the big If you happen to be in the vicinity of A shorter trip went to Marseille, where marked place, but everything was being some of the places I have mentioned we had planned to visit a museum, changed in the middle of town. in my article, go visit them. If you are but had to do with seeing the outside interested in textile you will be pleased only. It had a wonderful façade, but was The place, normally filled with people to see how well many places tell about closed on Tuesdays, as was also the fan- around the big fountain, was changed how things were. It puts thing into per- tastic cathedral. to a construction place and dug up spective in our days of business. everywhere. We hurried away into the Ecole Dentelliere We moved on northwards, to more small streets looking for stores to tempt 6, rue du Collége-59270 Bailleul - Nord people-friendly tempratures. We went our needs before it was time for lunch. [email protected] to Calais, and that was a nice expe- Caleis: www.cite-dentelle.fr rience. In Cité Dentelle Mode could We found indeed a lace store where we Bochholt: www.lwl-industriemuseum.de thei demonstrated how a machine had not been before. The family had

5 Lotus - the most expensive of the world Text: Prof. Dr. Waltraud Rusch, Karlsruhe Photoes: Jürgen Nebel Published with permission from “Die Spitze”

ost people know the Lotus flow- materials of the world. He has, beside day. is the largest Cashmere Mer as an exotic water plant. The the baby-cashmere from Mongolia and producer and the largest merchant of flower symbolizes purity, faithfulness, the vicuna- from Peru, also found the finest wool in the world. The fine creative power and enlightenment. The the lotus fibers from . A Japa- vicuna-wool, which the business pur- famous lotus effect simply lets water nese friend showed him a shawl of lotus chases from a natural reserve in Peru, is and dirt run off the lotus plants leaves. silk and he felt it. The material looks like manufactured to a very expensive cloth What only few people seem to know, is cloth or raw silk, but it does not for clothing. The firm produces yearly a that the lotus flower is not only pretty, stretch. It is very comfortable to wear. limited amount of the finest garment but its fruits and roots are eatable. The One can breed through it, which makes cloth in merino wool. Burmese people like to eat the lotus the material interesting. It seems cool in fruit’s kernels as a snack. They taste sim- the heat and it is creaseproof and soft The weaving-mill has since 2005 held ilar to juicy peanuts. as velvet. “The quality of this material is the world record in producing the fin- simply exceptional.” 1 est spun wool with a diameter of The lotus flower is viewed as holy all 11,8 micrometers only. Pier Luigi Loro over the Asiatic region. The lotus flow- Members of the Loro Piana fami- Piana buys whole bales of the expensive ers opened under Buddha’s feet, accord- ly started to trade in woolen cloth in lotus thread, in order to bring it to the ing to the sayings. Buddha is therefore 1812. Pietro Loro Piana founded our modern man in Europe, able to pay often depicted in the lotus position on time’s fashion business Loro Piana in about 7000 Euro for a tailored jacket. stylized lotus leaves. Quarona by Biella in 1924. His sons Sergio (+ 2013) and Pier Luigi (*1951) The people on the county side still live But nobody seems to know that the took over the leadership of the firm in like they did 100 years ago. The In- Buddhist’s holy plant is the supplier of 1975. The firm sponsored jackets, the tha-people live by the Inle-lake and one of the most exclusive and expensive socalled Horsey-jackets, to the Italian “Intha” means the sons of the lake. The cloth in the world, the Lotus silk. Only horsemen for the summer Olympics in Inthas cultivate the lotus plant on the in one place on earth, by the Inle-sea of 1992. From then on, the development watery fields around their houses by the Myanmar, are a little group of female of their own garment industry, acces- lake. The longer the plant’s stem gets, hands, who can spin these fibers. It is sories and leather goods escalated. The the longer the fibers, which will be at really not a silk, as there is no protein. It first Loro Piana store opened in New the end of the rainy season. The water consists, like all plant fibers, of cellulose. York City in 1993. Beside many other level is at this time on its highest, and But the lotus silk is even finer than the businesses, they also opened their own the stems therefore the longest. The mulberry silk. store in Hong Kong in 2005. There are harvest season starts. The flowers are of- 135 Loro Piana stores in Europe, USA fered to Buddha and the house spi­rits. The Italian fashion designer Pier Luigi and Asia. In Germany they have stores It is important to satisfy them when Loro Piana has spread the knowledge in Munich, Hamburg and Keitum. The something is taken from the nature. of the finest fibers of the world. Toge­ luxury article concern LVMH (Louis The Inthas believe that this will bring ther with his brother Sergio (+ 2013), Vuitton - Moet & Chandon - Hen- them good luck and prosperity. 2 now alone, he leads the family business nesy Cognac) took over an 80% share with the Italian luxury brand Loro Pi- of the designer labels in July 2013. The production of lotus silk is an old ana. Pier Luigi Loro Piana is always Pier Luigi Piana still holds the share and very demanding trade. The women looking around for the most valuable of 20% of the Loro Piana business to- by the lake of Inle master this as almost

6 nobody else in the world. The holy lotus own tranquil rhythm. The women work Prof. Dr. Waltraud Rusch Pädagogische Hochschule plant can also be handled only on the until they feel tired. Stress is not known Bismarckstr. 10 location where it is harvested. here. The thread used for weaving is 76 133 Karlsruhe measured very carefully so nothing is Germany The stems of the lotus plant have to spilled, as it is so costly. The preparation 1 Pier Luigi Piana in an interview. be handled on the same day they are for the weaving takes a whole day. Each http://sz-magazin.sueddeutsche.de/texte/ harvested in order for it not to dry out. thread is fastened in a hook. anzeigen/35607/Die -schmimmenden- After harvesting, the tender fi­bers are Gaerten-von-Birma loosened from the stems. Four stems The looms would stand in museums in 2 Jf. Lotussilk: http://www.prosieben.de/tv/ are used together, and they are turned our countries, but they belong to every galileo/videos/clip/2064294- against each other after having been day’s life by the lake of Inle. The costly lotusseide-1.3475960/ scratched with a knife every 4-6 cm. cloth, also called “the textile diamond” Picture 1:  The holy lotus plant The spiderweb thin fibers are now visi­ is handwoven, slowly, cm by cm. Picture 2: Lady’s jacket of lotus silk ble. It is important that these fibers do The lotus silk cloth goes through a con- Picture 3: The typical way the “Inthas” people not brake. The visible fibers are care- trol before it is sent out to Italy or the row their boats - in this way both fully twisted with the hand in order to USA. The thicker the cloth, the better hands are free and can be used for work. make a thread. Four women use about and more valuable is the quality. Small Picture 4: A business board for a company man- one week to spin enough thread for one errors are repaired. After this, the bales ufacturing lotus silk by the lake of Inle. meter of cloth, and 10.000 stems are can be sent off. One of the most exclu- Picture 5: This is the length of the fibers from used for one meter of cloth. The women sive tailored jackets in the world will the stems of w lotus plant. Picture 6: The fine lotus fibers are pulled out of spin thread from 26.000 stems for one be manufactured from this cloth - a the stems. single jacket of lotus cloth. This equals luxury, incredible for the people by the Picture 7: The swimming gardens and housings about 2,5m. cloth. . “The amount of cloth which by the lake of Inle. Picture 8: Lotus silk are being spun to thread. we are able to purchase, is very limited. Picture 9. Fibers from two lotus plants are being Many, many hours of handcraft are It is just enough to make 10-15 men’s twisted into one thread. necessary for this work. Only women jackets monthly” says Pier Luigi Loro spin and weave. They say that men are Piana. 1 too clumsy for the job. They work for ex. with fishery instead. In earlier times only Buddha and the monks of Buddha were allowed to wear The fresh spun thread has to be kept the lotus silk. Only few years ago did moist all the time for it not to lose its the western world also get the oppor- elasticity. It is constantly and for hours tunity to wear this cloth, if they were at a time turned over on new spolesin prepared to pay 100 dollars for a shawl. order to stabilize the thread. The fibers The value of the cloth is not the source are worked without tools and without and the manufacturing only, but also its electricity. The experience of hundreds function: it is warm in winter and cool of years is still in use. The thread is very in summer. These are qualities we know fine in the beginning, and may brake from the Mulberry silk. The cloth looks easy. It therefore has to be twisted be- like linen cloth and the colors vary in tween fingers again and again and get nuances from beige to copper. It is one spooled over from one spool to ano­ther. of few materials, known to be “holy”. After these treatments the thread is strong enough to be used for weaving. Even though Burma is known to be a But first it is washed and treated in a poor country, are the people by the lake solution of rice starch. It is basically the of Inle living well, thanks to the manu- same as when we starch our shirts with facturing of the lotus silk. rice starch. The thread is hung up to dry. 500 women by the lake of Inle work as lotus weavers. All of them have learned the trade from childhood. The know­ ledge has been handed down from grandparents to the younger gene­ rations. The life by the Inle lake has its 7 The history of the dress of my dreams My history starts, as so many other young girls’ history about the dresses of their dreams, when I was quite young Written by Rikke Riis Dalgaard

visited my grandparents once as a 12 care, but suddenly they fell apart in his These pictures helped me in this very I year old girl. It must have been early hands. And just then, in this very mo- personal and secret mission. spring, because my mother was making ment of chaos, came the thought about plans about the dress for my confirma- my mother’s bridal gown back to me I finely had pulled myself together in tion. My mother would sew my dress, and for the second time, I wanted to August 2016 to make some pictures and she told me that she also made her copy her dress. Days and years passed, of my mother gown and made an an- own bridal gown. She showed me the and the bridal gown was again hidden nouncement in the Facebook-group: framed picture on my grandparent’s in the back drawer of my memory. Lace, sale and purchasing. bookshelf. I had seen the picture many times before, but this was the first time The bridal dress showed up again on I was completely taken back by the I really looked at it and my teenage August 1st ,2015, when my boyfriend, many responses I received. MANY re- eyes caught sight of the dress itself and Kristian, proposed to me. sponded, liked and thought the dress not my parents. I remember thinking: was fantastic. I got a private message ”Cool! My mom wore a real hoodie for I knew exactly, already with Kristian on from Else Jensen. She wrote that she her wedding, I’d like that also...”, and his knees in front of me, what my bridal­ would like to help me with the pattern. this was the first time I thought about gown would look like. I remembered She had made some approaches but was my own bridal gown. I never mentioned exactly what I had promised myself not done yet. She offered to send a sam- this moment of thought for anybody, when I was 16 years old, and my long, ple for me to see. and through the years it was hidden in secret journey started in the fall of 2015. the most far away drawer of my me­ My original plan was not to tell any- I feel very honored by the helpfulness mory. I got confirmed and time passed. body about the dress, but this turned and how humble Else is. She calls her- Regretfully, my mother died of cancer out to be too difficult, because I did self an amateur, but her approach to the when I was 15 years old. not know anything about the dress. I project is really professional. She would just pictured what it looked like in my even find out is somebody has copyright Later on, my childhood home was go- head, no pictures, no drawings, no lace. to the lace pattern. I receive the sample ing up for sale, and we had to make it I started to look for somebody locally about a week later, and I find it fantastic. ready and clean it out. One of the rooms who could make lace. I ended up in the contained an old closet, and at the bot- nursing home’s hobby-room where I In the meanwhile, have I been contact- tom my father found a roll of old, yel- talked with a lady who thought she had ed by Emma Mathiasen, who offers to lowed lace. He told me that my mother heard about somebody who belonged produce the lace if I can provide the pat- had saved it for 25 years. They had been to a Facebook lace- group. A fast search tern. All of a sudden I have both the pat- part of her bridal gown. My mother had under “Bobbinlace” on Facebook, and tern and the production of it “in place”. saved the lace which was made by our I had instantly more than 1000 peo- Since I do not know the first thing great-grandmother. The dress itself was ple, who knew something about lace. about lace making, Else and I agree that ruined. If she had plans with them I will Shortly after my Facebook experience, the best way is to have Else and Emma never know, but they were carefully put I found a photo album at my old grand- talk together about the project. around a cardboard cylinder and put in father’s home which contained pictures plastic in a dark closet. from my parent’s wedding. The pictures I ask my dear neighbor, Maja Kristine had a reddish taint, and some had loos- Nielsen Daucke, if she will help me sew My father rolled the lace out with great ened from the album’s brown paper. the dress, and her answer is yes. The dress 8 of my dreams is now about to become and Else produce 3 meters each. Else I get dressed at a girlfriend’s house. My reallity. We start a Facebook page where bought the thread so we were certain to father arrives, and when he sees me, he the three producers can be in contact get the same thickness and color-shade. smiles and looks me in the eyes. “Oh, with each other, and “freely” talk about you look so beautiful!” he says, and looks the dress, which is difficult otherwise. A fantastic cooperation begins, and my down at my dress...and then it happens dress takes shape, slowly and steadily. I ...he recognizes my dress. I put pictures of the dress on our Face- receive two packages in April, contain- book page, and “the ladies” need to make ing the most beautiful lace, and Maja I would like to give a big thank you to patterns both for the dress and for the has started her work on the dress itself. Else, Emma and Maja, who helped me lace. They figure out that they need 6 make my dream come true. meters of lace for the dress, 3 meters for August 19th is the big day. Only very the ribbon going over the arms and the few people know about the secret bridal hood, and 3 meters for the skirt. Emma gown.

Karen og Susanne Karen Trend Nissen Susanne Trend

Have made lace since 1962. Have taught evening classes Learned to make lace as a 5 year old and have since been since 1965. making lace more or less through the years. Graduated as lace teacher in 2001 and have since then been part of Ka- Have participated in and taught many classes around the relly Knipleservice, where she now is the mail share holder. country, between others, 10 times at the Lacefestival in Tønder. Have been 3 times in the USA teaching Tønder We have through the years had a tight and good coope­ lace. Have since year 2000 been part of the team around ration, both in the teaching- and in the business part. This the lace teacher education. will continue in the future, for ex. with the reconstruction of Kathrine Thuesen’s pattern collection. Have written 4 books about lace making.

Started in 1984 the Karelly Knipleservice together with Elsa Høj Madsen as a part of Kunstnersammenslutningen “Stokværket” in Horsens. Got my own business on July 1st, 2016, after 26 years in Stokværket. The last 15 years together with my daughter, Susanne. I am still teaching.

9 Place mat for the royal family A free assignment and then, not really!

Thread number 60/2 was set as also the Copies of the motive were used as “puzzle Thread: 64 pairs of Bockens linen measurements 36 x 12 cm. pieces”. How many pieces could fit the thread 60/2 and 2 pairs for gimp, linen length, how to make it fit in the width and thread 18/3 To draw a pattern is one thing, but to be at the same time have the right amounts limited of a certain number of squares of squares in both directions. Start: Set up in the right corner with in both length and width, is different. open pairs, see worksheet. The other The puzzle matched after having pairs are added two at a time on the Drawings were made and studied, and a moved the pieces around many times. inside as you go. The marked twists are motive, which with a little imagination We were inside the frame and the pat- valid for the whole lace. could resemble a “crown”, was selected. tern was the same in both sides. Susanne started to make the sample. It Finish: Take the pairs out 2 at the same The 12 x 36 cm. was marked on 2 mm. turned out well, so the thorough prepa- time and make a braid on the back of the paper. The edges were drawn in, so we ration had payd off linen edge. Attach the braid to the linen could figure out how many squares we edge after the lace is taken off the pillow. had left for the motive. The final lace was also made by Su- Mount the piece on the inside edge sanne. 12 cm. width is pretty wide, and our Sincerely motive looked small. To turn it the op- Technique: Susanne Trend and posite way did not help, and it became a Torchon. Karen Trend Nissen “puzzle game”!

The Easter-hen Putte - with an Easter-egg in her stomach Idea, design and execution: Anette Nielsen, Jernved

Body: 8 pairs of Moravia linen thread Crest: 5 pairs. The sample has 3 pairs of The lace is stiffened well before taken 40/2. The sample has 3 pairs of orange orange and 2 pairs of yellow. off the pillow. The egg is fastened with and 5 pairs of yellow. a thread to the hen. A thread may also The pairs are added on the head, work be fastened on the back of the hen so it Start at the back along the dotted line around and sew in on the head. can hang. and make a backstitch at the point of the tail. Easteregg: 8 pairs. The sample has 4 Have fun and happy easter! pairs of green, 1 pair of brown and 3 Work the body and finish off with pairs of orange. magical threads or in any other way. Sew in along the dotted line and work Beak: 2 pairs of orange thread. Make the lace. Finish off with magical threads two pointed tallies. or in any other way.

10 The board’s written report from 2017

The year has as usual given us many be serviced any longer. It has been a very arrangements. Just a little remainder: re- challenges, many exciting projects and big task to convert all the data and most member, you may look in our books and much joy. of all, to make the new system print out take copies from patterns. This has been the invoices for the membership fee of established at the last Annual Meeting Astrid Hansen announced on the Ge­ 2018. We believe that it is working now, after discussions with Copydan. neral Meeting at the Mødecenter in especially with the huge effort Bente has Odense in 2017, that she did not wish given this task. We have hosted a real exciting and well for reelection. Charlotte Zauchau was visited class by Mona-Lise Pedersen, instead voted into the board. Lea Gam- The last big project was the change of were a dragonfly in metal was the topic. berg was elected 1. substitute, and Mona graphic designer and with that, a new We are planning on more classes of si­ Nøhr 2. substitute. design of Kniplebrevet. Our association milar topics. Please, do not hesitate to tell is 35 years old, and that is admirable, but us if you wish for certain classes, and we Charlotte announced shortly after sum- a new look was needed. We have to work will see if it can be arranged. mer vacation that she of personal reasons on attracting new and especially younger had to withdraw from the board. 1. sub- members. We asked our earlier graphic Our reconstruction group has had a ter- stitute, Lea Gamberg entered the board designers to help us ‘modernizing’ our rible year. It has been difficult to meet, in her place and will sit until Chalotte’s bulletin and association, but they did not and they have not been able to produce as time is over. feel they were able to. We had to go out many reconstructions as wished for. But and find somebody else. We chose to a big thank you for the work you are do- We have in 2017 been challenged by big start with the new graphic designer on ing for us. We will try to reorganize the projects. Most of the year has been oc- January 1st, 2018 after having found out reconstruction group, and the Annual cupied by the royal project. The present what they had to offer. We hope that you Meeting will have an introduction for it. to Her Majesty Queen Margrethe and all find the new version of Kniplebrevet Prince Henrik for their Golden Anni- exciting and interesting. We greatly appreciate Kniplepigerne’s versary was finished. Sonja has done a help to make samples of the patterns we gigantic job on redrawing all the pat- We have, as something new, decided publish in Kniplebrevet. Thank you very terns and the editors made a big effort to honor designers with a special de- much for being willing to do that. The on getting all the patterns collected and signed bobbin if we bring their pattern in pattern we sell for the support of Jule­ ready for publishing in Kniplebrevet. Kniplebrevet. The bobbin is designed by mærkehjemmene is in 2017 designed The only thing still missing, are the de- Chris Parsson, and we have 4 different by Annette Nielsen, and in 2018 Lene scriptions of all the techniques, but these designs. A bobbin with a winter theme Holm Hansen is the designer. The texts are currently being written as they for the publication in February, a spring board wants to thank Annette Nielsen appear in the bulletin. A big and im- theme for the May publication, a summer and Lene Holm Hansen for their ef- pressive job has been given to this pro- theme for August and a fall theme for the fort for this project. The board mem- ject. A big thank you to all of you, who November publication. The bobbin will bers would like to urge other members have designed, drawn up, made the lace, be sent to the designer as soon as the pat- to design a pattern, which can be sold mounted, written and collected all the tern appears in Kniplebrevet. Our pattern to support the children and young peo- lose threads. A small delegation, four de- coordinator has the right to determine if ple staying in Julemærkehjemmene. All signers and some board members, went and when a pattern will be published. contributions are welcome. to Amalienborg in order to hand over the 18 placemats. We had a very nice We have hosted several Open Houses Our plans for the future are to start some day together. We started to publish the in our facilities. Unfortunately, not many inspiration groups through a proposal at patterns of the 18 pieces of lace includ- people a re supporting this effort. We the Annual Meeting. We also work on ing techniques and picture of designers have had from 5 to a couple of visitors getting more people interested in lace. in Kniplebrevet no. 128. All 18 designs only. We have tried to host an open work- will be published, one or two patterns in shop-day with Peter Sørensen once, but We have in 2017 taken part in Kniple- every magazine, so everybody has an op- nobody interested in trying Dogme lace messen - Hjallerup, Husflidsmessen - portunity to make them. Then came our showed up. We are therefore looking for Viborg, Kreativ Messe - Fredericia and economy system. We had to get a new good ideas which will entice our mem- Kniplemessen­ - Slagelse. We also had two system as the one we had used, could not bers to participate in our Open House participants on the German Congress. 11 We are already planning to participate The members of the board would like good atmosphere and hard work for our in following events in 2018: Kniplemes- to say thank you to everybody, who have organization always are present. sen in Viborg, Kniplemessen in Slagelse, contributed with articles, good ideas, in- Kreativ Messe in Fredericia and to have put and most of all, patterns to Kniple- The board wants to thank all our vo­ a stand at OIDFA in The Netherlands brevet. The chair of the board would like lunteers, helping us in so many different in August. We also plan to be present at to say thank you to our boardmembers ways - we could not do it without you. the German Congress. for a good year where good cooperation,

Bente Barrett I am 58 years old and was elected to the mously exciting, and gives me new and I would like to keep on spreading the board in 2010. exciting challenges every day. The coop- knowledge about lace, and to help mak- eration on our board, and especially the ing our association inspiring, exciting I work as treasurer, contact to our mem- contact to our members on a daily basis and attractive for our members. bers and Knipleshoppen. These obliga- and on the fairs, keep giving me inspi- tions and the work on our board is enor- ration to what to work on in the future. I therefore am available for reelection.

Heartvine Idea and design: Aleida Maria Baumeister-Jonker, The Netherlands Execution: Ella Pedersen, Hadsund

2 different types of fillings are used be- way the filling is worked. The colored The spider’s body is worked with sec- tween the tape in the Russian tape lace. pairs change at the turning point or at ond thread from the left. Pull the thread Plaits and a Russian spider is used be- the start of the next filling. under the first plait to the left and pull tween the hearts. The hearts have a fill- the bobbin through the loop. Pull the ing of plaits and tallies and uses 4 pairs. The Russian spider is worked, accord- thread toward the center. *Pull the The tape crosses at the bottom of the ing to the diagram, from the last point thread under the next plait to the left heart. The gimp is used for a nerve in where the filling meets the tape (by the and pull the bobbin through the loop. the middle of the tape. star). A plait is worked to the center of Pull the thread toward the center*. the spider. The spider is worked using Continue in the same way from *to* You need 8 pairs of linen thread no.50/2 one thread according to part 3 in Rus- until the spider has the right size. Sew or similar, and 1 pair thicker thread for sian Tape lace. around the three threads from the last the gimp. The tape is worked in linen plait as if it was a whole plait. Lay the stitch with edges in whole stich. The Russian spider worked with one thread. thread used for the spider’s body back fillings are worked with the worker and Work the plaits as usual. Make a sew- as part of one of the pairs after having the nearest passive pair, starting from ing the last time the plaits meet in the made the last sewing around the three the last point where the filling leaves center. Use the 2 middle threads in the threads. Work the plait with the 2 pairs the linen stitch tape. Sewings are made plait for the sewing. Make a linen stitch until the right length is reached. around plaits and tallies in Russian with the two pairs of the plait after the tapelace. The diagram, fig. 1 shows the sewing. See fig. 2.

12 Sabina, hexagon napkin Idea, design and execution: Lone Nielsen

Materials: 23 pairs of linen thread 50/2 worked in roseground surrounded by Mounting: tack the lace to the cloth. and 1 pair for gimp, 20/2 or 18/3. For a gimp. The squares around the rose The stitches are sewn from top to bot- mounting: linen cloth, 10 threads/cm. ground are worked in half stitch with tom in horizontal and vertical groups The lace is 7 cm wide and the napkin’s dots of linen stitch. A sewing edge is with 2 stitches in each group - sewn diameter measures 23 cm. worked toward the center. Finish off out of the same point. The horizontal with magical threads or a braid. groups are worked over the lace edge Start according to worksheet. The little and the vertical groups along the edge. triangle on the edge is worked in lin- The marked twists are valid for the en stitch. The motive in the center is whole lace.

Easter ribbon Idea, design and execution: Lone Nielsen, Stubbekøbing

Materials: 16 pairs of Bockens Linen the worksheet when reaching the mid- stitch with stripes, the 6 egg is worked thread 60/2 or K80 and 1 pair for gimp, dle and the same eggs are worked once in roseground, the 7. egg is worked in Perlegarn no.8. The ribbon measures more in the opposite direction. In this Russian ground, the 8. egg is worked 2,5 cmx 80 cm. way the two halves look the same. with a spider in half stitch, the 9. egg is worked with ladders to the left, the 10. The ribbon consists of “egg” using dif- The 1.egg is worked with ladders to the egg with mayflower and the 11. egg is ferent grounds. The ribbon may be pro- right, the 2. egg is worked with perl­ worked with a spider in linen stitch. longed by adding eggs. ground, the 3. egg is worked in half stitch, the 4. egg is worked with pago- Finish: Finishing off by taking pairs Start: According to worksheet. Turn da ground, the 5. egg is worked in half out and knotting off the rest.

13 Our annual topic: Milanese lace This lace derives from the 18th centu- recognized by the fact that pins are set It gets even more difficult when colored ry’s northern part of Italy. They were on the tape’s edges only, and can there- threads are used and the pairs are di- mostly of coarse and dense linen for fore be seen as a kind of free lace. vided. A backstitch is used instead and everyday use, and without need of fill- support pins may as an exception be ings. Fillings of plaits and false braids The lace has to be pulled nicely in shape. used in the tape. occurred later when spaces between the This may be difficult due to the use of tapes became bigger. 1½stitch (x-tw-x-tw-x). This divides There are many different ways to make the two pairs in use, and one have to pay fillings in the tape, and they may there- The type of lace we know as Milan- extra attention when pulling the pairs. fore be more interesting to work than ese lace today, is a combination of the other tape laces. One can for ex. make original Milanese lace and a type of lace The 1½ stitch may also be used for half spiders, and also the amount of from Flanders worked in finer thread. changing direction of the passive pairs twists can be of importance for the Finer thread is used today than in the and for changing between one or two tape’s appearance. original lace, and also silk and colors are workers. There are also tapes without Source: Barbara Corbet - Mailänder Spitze used for ex. for decorations and pictures. workerpairs. Deutscher Klöppelverband - Mailänder Spitze auf Milanese lace is a tape lace. They are neuen Wegen

Easteregg in Milanese technique Lection 1. Foreningen Knipling i Danmark has decided that this year’s technique will be Milanese lace. Idea, design and execution: Annette Nielsen, Jernved

The egg: The bobbin: 2x2 pairs of dark brown are added as Materials: 2 bobbins of Myrtetråd and Materials: 4+4 pairs of dark brown shown before the ball on the bottom is 16 pairs of linen thread 60/2. linen thread 60/2 and 6 pairs of light started. Work the pointed tallies, which brown linen thread 60/2. are crossed in the middle with a linen- Start: Set up along the line. Where stitch, where every pair equals a bobbin. the worksheet shows a circle, work 1½ Start: The 4 pairs of dark brown are set A bead may be added in the middle. stitch = cross, twist, cross, twist, cross. up as open pairs at the marked point, Work the 2 last pointed tallies, work and a plait is worked to both sides. The the pairs out through the plait and fin- The Myrtetråd is put in as a gimp on 6 pairs of light brown are hung on to ish the ball. both sides, marked on the worksheet the plait as shown. as a black line. Work a sewing edge on Finish: Starch the lace well before each side - remember to set the pin be- The bobbin is worked with halfstitch taking it off the pillow and hang the hind 2 pairs. and four plaits along the edge. Use a bobbin in the Easter egg, perhaps with backstitch where half stitches meet invisible thread. Finish: Finish of with magical threads plaits, and the pin is set behind two or tye off on each side and use a Bel- pairs. Remember to twist the pair going Have fun! gian knot-row in the middle. The lace is into the halfstitches. starched well before taken off the pillow.

14 What is the difference between Free hand lace and Free lace? Written by Karen Vontillius

We, the editors have often asked Karen pening between these edges is worked Knipling i Danmark published in Vontillius about the difference between either with lines on the pillow-cover or 1989 the pamphlet Danske Frihånds­ Freehand lace and Free lace in connec- with help of checkered cloth. The lace is kniplinger by Käte Farcinsen. tion with the techniques we met during mostly narrow, but sometimes one won- our project with the gift for the Royal der about how wide free hand lace can be. Free Lace Golden Anniversary. Karen has sent us Here are no particular rules to work after this very clear explanation. I will not inform about the techniques and no pattern which has to be followed. but refer to books about the topic. Much The phantasy decides how and how much Free hand lace is written for ex. in OIDFA’s Bulletin to do with the lace. The pricking is often Has nothing to do with free lace except about this type of lace, which is much a drawing of lines and the lace maker uses that they use the same 3 different lace used for ex. in Sweden: the stitches of his/her choice in order to stitches. They do, however, also work with get the effect he/she wishes for. a stitch of 3x half stitch and it is called Wivi Ann Nordström has published a ‘one and a half stitch’. It looks like a very book: Skånsk knipling. A good example is Peter Sørensen’s short plait. Kniplebrevet no.15, page 14 book: DOGMEKNIPLINGER describes what a freehand lace-pricking Bodil Tornehave was very interested in looks like: THE EDGE ONLY CON- this kind of lace and published the book: TAINS PINDOTS. Everything hap- Danske Frihåndskniplinger.

Karen Marie Iversen I have always been fascinated by the old Hansen from 1999 to 2003. • Her Majesty, Queen Margrethe II’s hand craft, and I started to make lace af- • Lace teacher, AOF 40th anniversary as queen of ter I had stopped working due to illness. • Lace teacher, private students Denmark , Guestbook It was a good choice for me, as I got • Lace teacher at Nældebjerg I am deputy chairman in the lace completely “hooked”. I started evening Plejecenter, where I am still teaching. association KIT (Knipling I Tune) classes by Liva Nielsen in Greve, and I found out after a couple of years, that I Major achivements: Lace will always be part of my life. had to take a proper lace education. • Book: Moderne knipling, 2006, Akacia publishing company Sincerely Lace biography: • Book: Kniplede smykker, 2012, Karen Marie Iversen • Lace teacher education by Tinne Akacia publishing company

15 Free lace For this place mat it means that tech- The flowers are all worked with whole into a stem. Where the stem contin- niques from different types of lace have stitch edges and backstitches towards ues into a leaf, 2 pairs are put aside and been used, like Bruges Blumen-, Tor- the middle. 4 pairs are added for the tally taken in again when the leaf is finished. chon- and Honiton techniques. in the middle of the flowers. The edge is made with whole stitch ed­ ges and linen stitch in the middle. The Thread: Bockens linen thread no.60/2, I set up the flowers in the middle of a motives are joined by plaits. Follow the the amounts of pairs differs. flower petal. This gives a nicer joining as arrows on the worksheet. The plaits go the knots are invisible from the front. All across the stems and along flowers and Flower 1, 3 and 4: 12 pairs. Flower 5: the leaves are worked with whole stitch edge on some places. 14 pairs. Leaves: 6 pairs. Stems: 8 pairs. edges and half stich in the middle. 2 Edge: 5 pairs. pairs are added where the leaf continues

Exhibition of Point de Lille - Spitzen mit ausgearbeiteten Ecken One of the main exhibitions on this year’s lace congress in Germany was Point de Lille lace. Written by Sonja Andersen

rdmute Wesenberg has reconstruct- German lace congress. People were Erdmute starts with the simpler Point E ed different lace patterns from a pat- studying and looking at pieces more de Lille lace and continues with the re- tern book from 1836 - 1846 from one of than once. It was a wonderful exhibi- construction of the more complicated the three museums in Annaberg-Buch­ tion, whether you are for fine lace with and wider Point de Lille. The exhibition holz. Erdmute and Dieter Wesenberg, thin thread, many small and fine details shows how she has started to recon- her husband, had done an impressive and point ground patterns or you like struct the original prickings and sam- piece of cultural work. This is a project coarser thread or free lace. To me it was ples and to how she has worked out/ which has taken many years. Erdmute good to see the exhibition by following redrawn a new pricking and a work- made the drawings and the lace, and the book containing the reconstruct- sheet containing the details in the pat- Dieter took the photos and made the ed lace pieces. The exhibition was well terns and the point ground. This can be layout of the book. ‘Erzgebirgische Point thought through, and one could follow achieved by finding the most even and de Lille mit ausgearbeiteten Ecken’, is the development from the narrow, sim- straight place of the pricking. The space the result of their efforts. With this piece ple patterns in the point grounds to the between the holes are measured on se­ of cultural work, Erdmute helps preserve wider point grounds with patterns of veral places of the pricking in order to the knowledge of this special type of lace many details. The exhibition shows a find out exactly how far the holes are and how to work it. Everybody can in red line from start till end of how the apart. In this way one will know the size the future make Point de Lille lace, if one lace develops by getting more and more of the thread to use. In this case Egyp- is able to read a worksheet or, if necessary, complicated and containing more and tian 120/2 is used together with by getting instructions. more details. This does not necessarily Bockens linen thread 60/2 for gimp and mean that the wider the lace, the more in addition one or two pairs of Bockens The exhibition is very nice and was complicated it is, because technical de- linen thread 80/2, for the linen stiches visited by many participants of the tails may add to the grade of difficulty. used along the sewing edge. With these 16 measurements and comparisons one the different patterns, were it coordi- figures and flowers and a lace sample is can start to make the finishing draw- nates with the repeats. With other lace made. They come alive and display the ings of the different figures in the Point pieces she has just continued the pat- nature of every day. It is easier to see de Lille lace. The graft- paper for this tern around the 90 degrees, but care is what the different figures are supposed lace is 3 mm horizontally and 2 mm still taken to do it in a natural way. The to be. All the pieces of lace from the vertically. She has used these measure- lace is mirrored in the middle of a side, published book, were exhibited in con- ments for all the lace pieces in the ex- were it fits the pattern or the repeats nection with The German Lace Con- hibition. These measurements make the continues into the corner. gress. It was no doubt in my mind as to lace appear more rounded. where our own Tønder lace comes from The patterns in the net ground may be when I saw the exhibition of Point de Erdmute has chosen to make corners small flowers, leaves or other figures Lille lace. They have several things is for the lace, as we do it today. The origi- from the nature, plus different orna- common, like flowers, leaves and fig- nal lace has not had corners. When the ments, worked in linen stitch. Different ures edged by gimp in linen thread and lace had to be mounted around a corner, techniques are used in the patterns, like the lace is edged by picots, plus the fact it was gathered and sewn around the tallies, rose ground, half stitch, whole that the lace is worked in cotton thread corner. The Torchon-corner is normally stitch, linen stitch and picots around 120/2 and 140/2. Dunbar linen thread in a 45 degree angle, but the angle in the edges. This can be done by twisting was earlier used both for Point de Lille Point de Lille is between 50 and 58 de- the pair 7 times and turn it behind the and Tønder lace. With some luck, you grees from the middle of a 45 degrees pin, or by pulling one thread of the pair can still find Dunbar linen thread if angle and to the outside edge of the under the twists and the other over the you are interested in trying it out. The lace This means that extra pairs have to twists and tighten, as is done with the reconstructed lace carries the registra- be added in order to turn a corner. The Tønder picots. All figures are edged by tion numbers according to the num- amounts of pairs depend upon how gimps so they stand out from the net bers from the museum in Erzgebirge in wide the lace is and which degree the ground and the pattern in the lace. On Annaberg-Buchholz. Our Tønder lace angle has. The pairs are taken out when places where the gimps meet, the gimps often carry names after the person who the corner is turned. Different solutions are going together through the pairs, worked them or after their motive, like for turning corners were also on display. due to lack of space. The pricking and Strawberry or Denmark’s Big or Small Erdmute had chosen to mirror some of worksheets are built up around these Heart.

A course with new materials Written by Kirsten Ulla Andersen

e were participating in a wonder- ourselves through the whole day. In the us about different types of metal-/flow- Wful and inspiring class hosted by class, we had to make a dragon fly in er threads and which ones were best Mona Lise Petersen on Saturday, October lace using Bonsai- and Flower thread to work with. She also told about the 14th. It was held in Næstved, arranged by plus some beads. Mona Lise had made different types of glue and varnish, and KID. Mona Lise brought a nice bag for a folder with good descriptions and which ones gave the best protection for all 11 of us containing the materials we models of the wings. outside use. We worked for 1 hour af- had ordered. This was a good start. Mona ter the afternoon coffee brake, and fin- Lise had brought some beautiful models, The wings had to be formed on a wood- ished at 4 pm. I personally was glad that of which she had made a nice display. en board, where we hammered nails in Bente Jensen was willing to bring me after the shape of the wings. Thereafter forth and back to the railway station, Our good chairman of the board, were the wings transferred to a nor- and I had a wonderful day. Lone Nielsen, welcomed us with a nice mal lace pillow, and we used the flower breakfast table containing roles, cheese, thread as lace thread. Mona Lise went Thank you very much from a couple of good marmalades, coffee around and helped us. After the lunch Kirsten Ulla Andersen. and tea. The table was set for us to help brake, Mona Lise went around and told 17 The annual laceday, Voerladegård e had a wonderful day yesterday lace. They came from Juelsminde, Best regards, Vibeke Wwith beautiful weather. Hedensted, Horsens, Stilling, Braeds­ Interessegruppen I knipling trup and here from Voerladegård. We I Voerladegård We were around 11 persons making had 4 visitors. We had a real nice day.

An impressive exhibition Written by Annette Nielsen

he members of the board were in contains a long table, where an open Karen Trend has a long history on T the weekend of September 23rd lace education after a clip card system, drawing patterns. She tells me that and 24th invited by Gunver Kold takes place. In short, the participants she already in the first class of learning Jensen, owner of Tråden & Karelly buy a clip card, and every hour cost a lace, started to draw up a handkerchief Knipleservice, and Allingå Hotel, to a clip. The store is open for education in Tønder technique. Karen Trend al- visit and sightseeing. The occasion was three days weekly. This is a very flexible ready knew how to draw embroidery that Karen and Susanne Trend exhibit- way for the participants, as one is not patterns on millimeter paper, so she ed all their lace together. tied to a certain week day, as we mostly just went ahead. Her teacher was very are when we go to lace classes. skeptical about it, but when she saw I looked very much forward to the how well she did, she gave her a stack exhibition as I started the car Sunday After the sightseeing, came time to of patterns, which she meant that Ka- morning. I had never been there, only study the impressive exhibition, and it ren could “just” draw. A career for the heard a lot about it in connection with was REALLY IMPRESSIVE. What future had started, also to great pleas- different classes, and I also have my lace a collection of beautiful, beautiful lace. ure for all of us, buying her patterns. teacher education from Karen Trend. I One could have used days for studying have also attended classes given by Su- details. Susanne Trend tells that she learned to sanne Trend several times, so I knew make lace as a 5 years-old, and that she that the exhibitors were two very com- An obvious question would be to has designed in about 10 years. She petent ladies. My expectations were also ask how many pieces were exhibited, also had a big part in the impressing completely fulfilled. since all the lace both from Karen and exhibition, as she also has made many Susanne Trend were on display, but of the lace pieces designed by Karen The day started with a sightseeing of whether Karen nor Susanne Trend Trend. It was, however, difficult for her the hotel. It is a cozy hotel with 10 could tell how many pieces there were. to give a percentage of what was hers. rooms and 26 beds. I would definite- Karen Trend told us that there were Both ladies expressed that they were ly feel well taking a week of classes or 85 handkerchiefs in Tønder lace (85!!), happy with the exhibition, which had something similar in this environment. and then all the other things. brought many pieces of lace out of Gunver Kold Jensen described, in their hiding. They have no plans on warm and vivid terms, the tight coop- Most of us know that Tønder lace is hosting the exhibition again for now. eration between the local businesses, nearest to Karen Trend’s heart, and which helps to run the hotel in a very she also admits that she uses much The day ended with a nice lunch and flexible way. It was not difficult to feel time on the reconstruction of Tønder lots of nice lace chatting. A perfect end her pride and enjoyment when she lace. She does in addition design new to a perfect day. talked. patterns in other techniques for differ- ent classes. I wonder if we can expect Sincerely The hotel also houses the store, Tråden many new patterns from her hand in Annette Nielsen og Karelly Knipleservice. The store the future? 18