Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020
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Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 A Tropical Birding SET DEPARTURE tour Eastern Ecuador: High Andes to Vast Amazon nd th 22 February- 7 March 2020 Hoatzin at Napo Wildlife Center TOUR LEADER: José Illanes Trip report and photos by José Illanes INTRODUCTION: Ecuador is one of the most diverse countries in the World for birds and this trip provided plentiful evidence of this; just over 600 species were recorded on this trip. The reason for such totals was that we birded from high up, above the treeline in the Andes, all the way down the lowland tropical forests of the Amazon, with cloudforests and Andean foothills birded in between these extremes. Early highlights, from the higher elevations of the trip included, Andean Condor, Black-faced Ibis, and Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.1 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 Downhill from there the forests of the subtropics and foothills yielded Military Macaw, Ocellated Tapaculo, Coppery-chested Jacamar, White-bellied and Plain-backed Antpittas, White-capped Tanager, and a wonderful set of hummingbirds, including Sword-billed Hummingbird, Napo Sabrewing, and Gould’s Jewelfront. Then there was the Amazon itself, with birds like Great Jacamar, lots of antbirds, including Lunulated Antbird, and Zigzag Heron, Crested Owl, and Plum-throated Cotinga, not to mention plentiful trogons, toucans, and parrots, as well as mammals like Golden-mantled Tamarin, Giant River Otter, and Spix’s Night Monkey. From the bird list, the participants highlighted the following ones among their favorites: Ocellated Tapaculo, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Zigzag Heron, Chestnut-crowned Gnateater, Crested Quetzal, Wire-tailed Manakin, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Andean Cock-of-the Rock, Sparkling Violetear, Wire-crested Thorntail, Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Scarlet Macaw, Ecuadorian Hillstar and the bizarre Hoatzin. We had healthy amounts of rain, but a very healthy bird list too, and we can consider this a successful trip for sure, in my own backyard! Black-headed Parrot from Sani Lodge (The Amazon) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.2 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 TOUR SUMMARY: February 23: Antisana National Park and Papallacta Pass. After a post-breakfast meeting with the group, we were soon on our way east to Antisana. This national park is a wonderful place to start, relatively easy birding in staggering landscapes, it is often a favorite site amongst birders. While this tour work it wall all the way down to the Amazon, we started in the high Andes, gradually working our way down from there. Within an hour we had arrived at the first birding stop, just outside the park, where we quickly picked up some birds of the treeline, like Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Black-crested Warbler, White-crested Elaenia, Cinereous Conebill, Black Flowerpiercer, Plain-colored Seedeater, Red-crested Cotinga and a sitting Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle. Moving into the park, we were shocked to find a landslide that had very recently occurred (this year had been unusually wet). However, with a bit of planning, we managed to pass the vehicle that was clearing the slide and used another vehicle to cover our morning in the park, thanks to the help of a local restaurant owner! Not long after, we were at a viewing platform where 6 different Andean Condors (Ecuador’s national bird), were seen on the wing, one of the sites biggest target birds. We continued birding from the excellent paved road that passes through the park, soon after emerging above the treeline and into open undulating paramo grasslands, where birds typical of this habitat were found, including Chestnut-winged and Stout-billed Cinclodes, Black-winged Ground-Dove, Paramo Pipit Carunculated Caracara (above), many Andean Gulls and Andean Lapwings and the rare and local Black-faced or Andean Ibis. Here are there patches of scrub pock the grassy hills, and it is here that we found other birds such as Tawny Antpitta, Andean Tit-Spinetail, Blue-mantled Thornbill, and the ordinarily skulking Streaked-backed Canastero. Overhead a Variable Hawk soared. After passing by all of these grassland birds, we centered next on a large high Andean lake, where Slate-colored (Andean) Coot, Andean Teal, Andean Duck and cute Silvery Grebes all featured. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.3 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 From there, we backtracked to a local restaurant near the park entrance, Tambo Condor, which came with a nice local lunch, plus birds around the property’s hummingbird feeders: Black- tailed Trainbearer, Tyrian Metaltail, Black Flowerpiercer, Shining Sunbeam, Sparkling Violetear and the largest in the world Giant Hummingbird. Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant at Cayambe-Coca National Park Our next stop was a drive away, where we swapped one High Andean site for another, Papallacta Pass, an area of wetter more rugged paramo grasslands between Antisana and our lodging. We did not have a large amount of time here, but still managed to find Many-striped Canastero, the rare Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant (above), and the even more rarely seen Jameson’s (Andean) Snipe within this section of Cayambe-Coca National Park. From there, we drove the short distance to Guango Lodge, a wonderful small lodge set beside a rushing Andean river. There was no time for birding, but we enjoyed one of their famous tasty dinners before retiring for the night. February 24: Guango Lodge and Papallacta to San Isidro. We started our morning (after a hot breakfast) by birding for a few hours within the cool, temperate immediately around Guango Lodge. Right beside the lodge, we located Chestnut-capped Brushfinch, Turquoise Jay, Russet- crowned Warbler, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, and a group of noisy Mountain Caciques. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.4 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe from near Papallacta Pass We widened our search here, birding nearby trails too, where mixed flocks led us to more birds, including Slaty and Pale-naped Brushfinches, Spectacled Redstart (Whitestart), Black-crested Warbler, Rufous Wren, Plushcap, Cinnamon Flycatcher, Capped Conebill, Black-eared Hemispingus and a friendly Gray-headed Bush-Tanager. After such a good start, we decided to make a swift return to the Papallacta area that we’d been to briefly the afternoon before. Our time in Cayambe-Coca National Park was headlined by Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe at the highest point, followed by Many-striped Canastero, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Viridian Metaltail, White- chinned Thistletail and the striking Ecuadorian Hillstar near the mountain pass itself. We returned to the lodge for lunch, stopping at the Papallacta lagoon on the journey, where Andean and Blue-winged Teals, Yellow-billed Pintail, Southern Lapwing, and both yellowlegs were found. We took a final meal at Guango, and then spent several hours birding around the lodge, before driving downslope to Cabanas San Isidro for the night. Guango’s feeders are legendary, and they did not disappoint, bringing in a stream of spectacular hummingbirds, like Tourmaline Sunangel, White-bellied Woodstar, Buff-tailed and Chestnut-breasted Coronets, Collared Inca, Speckled Hummingbird, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Long-tailed Sylph, Mountain Velvetbreast and the www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.5 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 uniquely bizarre Sword-billed Hummingbird (below). Then, we returned to the lodge trails, where the local ranger showed us a sleeping Andean Potoo, a rare and difficult to find species we had not been expecting! On checking the river beside the lodge itself, both White-capped Dipper and Torrent Duck were located, while birding an upper trail led us to feeding flocks, and plenty of new birds, like Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, a male Barred Fruiteater, Andean Guan, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Black-capped and Black-eared Hemispinguses, Buff-breasted and Hooded Mountain Tanagers, Grass-green Tanager, Blue-backed Conebill, Pearled Treerunner, Streaked Tuftedcheek, and the rare Dusky Piha. After this very productive period, we loaded up and left for our next destination, San Isidro, an hour’s drive away, leaving our birding in that area for the following day, with a two night stay in the area… Sword-billed Hummingbird at Guango Lodge February 25: Cabañas San Isidro area. After a hot breakfast we were swiftly in the field, close by, where lights attract insects during the night and an attendant horde of birds in the early morning. This flurry of dawn activity was gripping, with birds popping up all around us, including Green (Inca ) Jay, Subtropical Cacique, Black-billed Peppershrike, Montane and Olive-backed Woodcreepers, Golden-crowned and Pale-edged Flycatchers, Pale-eyed Thrush, Andean Solitaire, and a series of North American winter migrant like, Summer Tanager, Canada and Blackburnian Warblers. An extraordinarily tame Masked Trogon was also appreciated there. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.6 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Eastern Ecuador: February-March 2020 The nearby hummingbird feeders attracted Chestnut- breasted Coronet, Fawn- breasted Brilliant, Bronzy Inca and a tiny female Gorgeted Woodstar. We had an appointment with the local rangers after this to a nearby forest feeding stations, behind the lodge cabins, which were attended by the hoped-for Chestnut-crowned and White-bellied Antpittas (left), ordinarily very difficult species to see away from feeding areas. The remainder of the morning was spent roadside birding along the quiet road that leads through forest behind the lodge. Dense stands of chusquea bamboo along the road held Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher, Streak-headed Antbird, Rufous Spinetail, and Plain-tailed Wren. Long periods of quiet were broken up by peaks of activity.