Stuart Haines

Introduction

The description of the Anversa and Castrolvalva walk forms part of work in progress on the forthcoming guidebook, ‘ Walking in the Abruzzo ’, due to be published in 2011. The guidebook’s author is me, Stuart Haines. I am based at Casa La Rocca, a few kilometres south of Sulmona, on the way to Pettorano Sul Gizio. Please try it out and, if you would like, tell me what you think. You might even want to share ideas for other walks! All feedback is very welcome. My email address is: [email protected]

This document is my copyright so, if you want to copy it, share it or use all or parts of it for any reason, please send me an email. I expect I’ll be persuaded by good causes! Photographs taken on this route and many others being prepared for the guidebook can be seen in the gallery of the Casa La Rocca website: http://www.casalarocca.co.uk/

Wherever you are staying in Abruzzo and for however long, do have a go - seeing the natural riches of this magnificent region at first hand is a very rewarding experience!

Stuart February 2009

Walking in the Abruzzo – Selected Short Routes

Walk Location This map of Abruzzo locates the walk:

20km

Published Maps There is no comprehensive mapping of Italy for walkers. Published maps of Abruzzo are of patchy coverage and quality and can be tricky to get hold of. Try the bookshop in Sulmona on Corso Ovidio (Piazza Settembre XX) or, less likely, in the ‘Il Borgo’ shopping centre. The tourist information office on the Corso has a few and National Park visitor centres may have stocks. The best for this route is the Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) 1:25,000 map of Monte Genzana and Monte Rotella.

The Anversa degli Abruzzi and Castrovalva Circuit

This delightfully varied round trip links two fine and ancient villages at the northern end of the Sagittario gorge. The climb up from Anversa through native woodlands is steep but over quickly allowing a leisurely stroll into Castrovalva, situated remarkably along a narrow ridge above the gorge itself. The descent into the gorge and amble through its rocky depths soon returns you to the welcome caf és of Anversa.

The Sagittario gorge is one of the largest in Abruzzo, linking the small mountain town of Scanno with the western side of the Peligna basin and regional centre of Sulmona. The gorge, some 9km long, is narrow and deep with the road in places cut hard into its walls. It separates the northern massifs of the Abruzzo National Park to the south west and Monte Genzana to the east - from which juts north-westwards the narrow rocky crest almost linking the two villages. The north east side of the spur may not be quite so deep and narrow but is an enchanting area of woodland, rocky bluffs and caves. The old village of Anversa degli Abruzzi lies at the far western side of the Sulmona valley, where the only ways further on are south through the gorge or up and over (or through) the high mountain ridge behind to the Fucino basin and on to Rome. Recognised as one of the most beautiful villages in Abruzzo, Anversa stands strategically at the entrance to the gorge. Large enough to boast 2 cafés, a chemist and a shop, it’s a relatively busy place of considerable charm. Castrovalva, just 2 km from Anversa but over 300m higher, is a much smaller settlement on the road to nowhere. It is the epitome of an Abruzzese hilltop village - you wonder just how worried people must have been to make their homes on such a precarious perch. You might be lucky enough to find a seasonal café but the beauty of the place is its quiet isolation. And you wouldn’t be the first to admire its qualities – in 1930 from a spot on this route the Dutch artist, Escher, made his lithograph, ‘Castrovalva’, which now hangs in the Museum of National Art in Washington D.C.: http://www.nga.gov/fcgi-bin/timage_f?object=54101&image=13273&c=ggescher The route is a great contrast between the thickly wooded valley that forms most of the ascent; splendidly sited Castrovalva itself and the leafy depths of the Sagittario gorge on

© Stuart Haines February 2009 Page 3 of 6 Walking in the Abruzzo – Selected Short Routes its far side. Along the way is a lookout point so perfect you couldn’t design one better, a cave with stalactite curtains to clamber into and the tumbling Sagittario river with its surging springs. How long should it take? It’s a modest 5km over the ground but with an ascent and then descent of 370m. Allow yourself three hours to take it all in. Anversa – where’s that? Coming from Sulmona, take the well signposted road (S.R. 479) for Scanno, passing turn-offs first for Introdaqua and then for Bugnara before reaching Anversa after about 14km. You can also reach Anversa by taking the Cocullo junction from the A25 motorway. Turn left at the end of the motorway access road before passing through the village of Casale to reach Anversa, about 4km from the motorway. Coming from Scanno, take the S.R. 479 passing through the Sagittario gorge. Parking and Starting Parking is available at the side of the road on the way in from Sulmona or, passing through the centre, there are about a dozen parking bays on the way out to Scanno. There is no parking on the village piazza. From wherever you park, walk into the village centre and find the café L’angolo delle Grazje . Sitting at an outside table, notice three horse chestnut trees on the other side of the road. The walk begins from behind the tree on the right. You will also notice Castrovalva up high and to the right. The Route 1. Drop down the side of the village along well paved paths and alleyways to arrive at the point where the waters of the Sagittario river are diverted into a narrow, fast flowing canal feeding the extensive irrigation system of the Peligna basin. Cross over the river by a bridge and find yourself in Anversa’s little botanical garden. This is a charming spot full of information on the local flora and, at the time of writing, the site of an archaeological dig. There are apparently over 380 different plant species in this small area. Locate a sign pointing left for Castrovalva at the corner of a small yard. You will see signs too for the ‘Sentiero Geologico’ (Geology Trail), which this route is also called. (In fact, if you read carefully every information board along the way you will be ready to take a degree in the subject…) 2. Follow the old mule track through the woods. It soon starts to zig zag steeply upwards and, in about 20 minutes, passes beneath a noticeable rocky bluff on the right. The path rises up and behind the bluff before emerging on top at a splendid viewpoint. Throw off your pack, sit on the promontory, rehydrate and soak up the view. Eventually you’ll feel the need to carry on. The path climbs for about ten minutes more before reaching an intersection with a larger track and a signpost. Continue, keeping right (southeast), along the undulating track and gradually draw level with Castrovalva across the rising valley. 3. The wide track leads in about 15 minutes to Castrovalva cemetery and the tarmac road into the village. First the road heads further up the valley for a few hundred metres more before turning tightly to the right and beginning the gentle rise to the back of the village. At the junction of the road that ascends from the Sagittario gorge, notice the plaque marking the spot where Escher made his famous etching. Little seems to have changed in the intervening 80 years – the A25 motorway clinging to the mountainside beyond Anversa and the wind farm above being the only obvious differences.

4. Enter the village and pass into the small central piazza. A number of the splendid old buildings are being renovated and one now offers overnight accommodation. A café may well be open in the summer months in a building near the post office. Continue through to the end of the village taking a lane to the left. Drop down some steps beyond the last house and onto the narrow ridge itself. The Sagittario gorge lies two hundred metres below you on the left. Walk along the ridge to a point just before the black metal cross where the track begins to zig zag down to the left. Continuing along the ridge beyond the communications mast to the little chapel is a worthwhile diversion but you will need to return to drop into the gorge. 5. The old mule track passes above the tunnel that takes the road to the village from one side of the rocky crest to the other and, after a few more turns, joins the road itself. Turn left and follow the road down. At the hairpin bend it is worth clambering up into the obvious cave. Though it’s rather dank and dark inside your eyes will soon adjust to notice the remnants of stalactite curtains above and even the odd small stalactite itself. Continue down the tarmac road until you reach the junction with the main road. Just before the junction take the path into the woods on the right and begin the lovely section between the steep cliffs of the gorge. 6. The path gently loses height as you pass though the narrow valley, taking first the right bank of the river, then the left, then the right again and finally staying on the left as the encroaching cliffs force changes of direction. The vegetation is luxurious and, on a hot day, the shade delicious. Large boulders lie strewn along the floor including some, no doubt, cast down from excavations of the roadway now high above on the left. The cold waters of the river rush between tight narrows and plunge into worn out pools. All too soon the gorge begins to open out and the first smallholdings and yards of Anversa are reached. 7. Continue to follow the level track as it nears the houses of Anversa up above. Turn right at the first obvious opportunity and take a short track back to the river. Turn left and follow the river bank before crossing the water once more and re-entering the botanical garden. The visitor centre, beautifully housed in an old water works, may be open but the fascinating springs that swell the Sagittario river are always flowing. Retrace the path up into Anversa and find yourself back in main piazza and the café where it all began.

The Sketch Map

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500m

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