Full circle: reviving Criolla

The oldest varieties in South America have been sidelined for the past hundred years, but a new generation is now reclaiming its lost heritage as Criolla varieties re-emerge from the shadows. Amanda Barnes has the inside story

WHEN THE SPANISH first conquered the Americas in the 1500s, they brought the holy trinity of cultivars – olive trees, wheat and grapevines. Whether planted as sticks or seeds, the first grapes to grow were known as the Criolla, or , varieties: a select handful of varieties picked for their high- yielding and resilient nature, and destined to Above: manual conquer the New World. Forgotten patrimony – with only a dozen hectares surviving of old País vines that Of these founding varieties, which included In the mid-1800s the first French varieties in the phylloxera-free haven of the Canaries.) grow wild among the Criolla: what does it mean? Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez and Torontel, the arrived on the continent and plantations of The only remaining stronghold for Listán trees at Bouchon’s most important was a red grape commonly Criolla varieties have been in decline ever Prieto is in , where 9,600ha of vines Criolla (or Criollo in masculine at Mingre in known as Listán Prieto in Spain, Mission in since, replaced by international varieties or (locally called País) can be found piecemeal in form) is a term that was coined in Chile’s Maule Valley the US, País in Chile, Criolla Chica in relegated to bulk , juice and table grape the properties of some 6,000 growers, mostly the colonial era for people, animals and some 45 other synonyms in-between. production. in the southern regions of Maule, Itata and Bío or plants of Spanish (or sometimes The foundations of South America’s wine According to a study by the University of Bío. It is here, where grapes are cheap and land European) descent, developed or industry were built on these early Criolla Santiago, in 1833 the finest Criolla variety, plentiful, that replanting didn’t happen to the born in Latin America. varieties as spread upwards from Listán Prieto, accounted for more than 90% of same extent as in other regions, leaving a Among its many other meanings, to the US, and southwards to , Chile’s and Argentina’s vineyards. Today it is treasure trove of old vines. Most País vines are Criolla is used to refer to a set of Chile, Bolivia, Argentina and beyond. Crosses just 7% and 1% respectively. It, and the other more than 100 years old (planted before the grape varieties that were brought spawned South America’s first native grape Criolla varieties, have similarly fallen into landslide of French varieties) and some from Spain and planted in the varieties – including Argentina’s Torrontés – severe decline across the rest of the Americas. vineyards date back to the late-1500s – a fact Americas during the colonisation. an extensive family of crossings with more than 100 Criolla varieties identified (Incidentally, following phylloxera, Listán that enchanted a new wave of winemakers Criolla varieties today also include between these original varieties.

Photograph: Bouchon Family Family Bouchon Photograph: in South America today. Prieto has all but disappeared from its native coming into Chile. ➢

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Pipeño revival That generation includes his son, Julio Growers never stopped making their own Bouchon Jr, who says: ‘País has nothing to do wines – their Pipeño, made from País or white with the Bordeaux winemaking style. We have Criolla varieties. Named after the large ‘pipes’ to respect the grape with low intervention.’ (local raulí wood barrels) they were vinified Bouchon’s winemaker Christian Sepúlveda in, Pipeño is synonymous with artisanal adds: ‘We try to be very gentle with the methods and proportions and is usually sold extraction…to show that País doesn’t have from a back door or roadside, and almost rustic tannins – the structure is elegant.’ always by the jug. Winemakers today are treating País less like Tradition here didn’t die, it just got sidelined. Bordeaux and more like . As the Bordeaux influence took its grip over Chile during the latter half of the 1900s, Uniting South America Pipeño was shunned as a poor man’s beverage. There is a Criolla revival happening on the Interestingly it is two foreigners – two other side of the Andes too, but Argentina’s French men – who have been among the Criolla gene pool is more diverse, with a greatest advocates for the revindication of greater spread and quantity of white and red Pipeño and thrust it into the limelight. Criolla varieties. Some 75,000ha of vineyards Burgundy-bred Louis-Antoine Luyt started planted with Criolla varieties survive today, working with the underappreciated accounting for more than a third of the centenarian País vines in 2007. Mentored by national total – however, the Criolla varieties Morgon’s great Marcel Lapierre, Luyt made it Above: harvest at account for less than 5% of Argentina’s varietal his mission to reinstate not only the vines but Miguel Torres Chile’s or premium wine production, mainly as also the traditional use of zarada (a bamboo Cauquenes estate, Torrontés. Part of the problem is that the destemmer), grape-stomping and fermentation where old-vine País finest red Criolla grape, Listán Prieto (aka in raulí pipes. His wines were a hit in Europe’s grapes are grown Criolla Chica), has dwindled to less than scene, opening the export market 360ha today, superseded by lower quality and setting a benchmark for this little-known Left: Manuel Moraga of varieties such as . Criolla varieties are (but widely grown) variety. Cacique Maravilla, one rarely planted as single varieties, meaning An element of carbonic is of the winemakers they either have to be vinified as field blends common in Luyt’s wines, and this light and leading the revival of or require careful selection in the vineyards juicy direction is the same as that taken by the Pipeño wine style (to make a single-variety Criolla wine). another French expat, David Marcel, for his Site selection is, however, what is driving Aupa Pipeño in 2012. Sold in beer bottles, the current excitement about Criolla in Aupa emphasised to the local market that this Argentina. ‘Criolla Chica is a variety capable of wine should be drunk young and chilled – expressing places, climates, soils and people, celebrating Pipeño as Chile’s equivalent of while maintaining its personality intact,’ says Beaujolais Nouveau. Sebastián Zuccardi, who has been producing The radical re-evaluation of Pipeño ‘País has nothing to do with the Bordeaux ‘The major challenge is actually finding ‘País is a Cara Sur Criolla Chica from high-altitude ignited a spark in the industry and vines with quality potential,’ says winemaker Barreal since 2014. ‘It has great winemaking several winemakers are driving a winemaking style – we have to respect the Fernando Almeda. ‘Slopes with granitic poor great grape attributes, not only for the quality of the wines grass-roots movement to reclaim the soil conditions and ocean influence are you can make, but also for its high .’ patrimony of País in the smallholdings important, in order to get balanced yield, Historically Criolla varieties were favoured grape with low intervention’ Julio Bouchon Jr to grow, but of the south. José Luis Gómez Bastías, maintain freshness and achieve ripe tannins.’ for their generous yield and today winemakers Juan José Ledesma, Leo Erazo, Manuel The rediscovery of País also marks Chile’s not an easy are falling for their sensorial charms too. Moraga Gutiérrez, Mauricio González, Left: Bouchon’s País asked by Chile’s foreign affairs minister to departure from high-octane red wines with ‘Criolla grapes yield four times more than a Renán Cancino and Roberto Salvaje Blanco (see look into making quality wine from the ripe fruit concentration and significant wine to make fine grape would,’ explains Cadus winemaker Henríquez are at the forefront of p88) is sourced from surplus of País vines in the south (see ‘Letter ageing, towards a more sensitive approach. Santiago Mayorga. ‘They were a boon in the producing artisanal, grower País old, untended wild País from Chile’, p18) that were being replaced by ‘País is a great grape to grow – super-low in the cellar’ 1970s when people were drinking 90 litres per and Criolla wines, from both red vines averaging 120 industrial forests. Torres’ proposition was to maintenance – but País is not an easy wine to capita. Today people are looking for quality and Derek Mossman Knapp, and white varieties. years in age make sparkling País using the traditional make in the cellar,’ explains Derek Mossman -driven wines. With precise vinification Garage Wine Co (above) method, somewhat akin to , for which he Knapp of Garage Wine Co. ‘If you are too rough, we can achieve an interesting wine – pure, The bigger picture had a deft winemaking team in place. it becomes harsh and tannic; too much time subtle and fresh with some earthiness.’ País has always been a large-scale Today Torres produces 30,000 cases of on the skins and it tightens up very quickly.’ Argentina’s winemakers are embracing the variety in Chile, and there has sparkling País and its Fairtrade rosé is the Julio Bouchon Sr of Bouchon Family Wines different dimension Criolla varieties offer – as simultaneously been a significant biggest selling País in the world. But the team had been making País for more than 30 years white, red and orange wines – adoptees across movement to readopt País into also came up with a light and juicy carbonic with little satisfaction: ‘I admit I did it badly. the country including Cadus, Cara Sur, the commercial mainstream. In maceration red (Reserva de Pueblo) and other I wanted to make a – with colour, Durigutti, El Esteco, Ernesto Catena, Paso a 2006, Spanish vigneron and Chile more complex blends. Finding a use for País, as body and structure. The result was bitter. The Paso, Passionate Wines, Trivento and Vallisto.

entrepreneur Miguel Torres was it turns out, was not an issue. Photographs: Miguel Torres Chile; Tim Atkin MW new generation have made the switch.’ Criolla is also taking winemakers further ➢

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afield. Chile’s Luyt is vinifying Criolla varieties Criolla roots could well be South America’s best EXPERIMENTAL in Mexico (Bichi) and in Argentina, Matías option to face the challenges of climate change. Michelini is making a wine in The movement is underway, but there is a Uco Valley and working with Criolla varieties long way to go. Centenarian vines are being in Peru (Mimo). ‘Criolla [Grande] is a noble torn out as small growers struggle to make variety which makes juicy and fresh wines,’ ends meet and have to sell grapes for bulk – in enthuses Michelini. ‘It’s a variety we need to Maule, País can sell for as little as £0.05/kg, develop – it could become important for the compared to £0.40 for . true character of Latin American wine.’ ‘País is a social issue – it only exists living alongside local people in the countryside,’ says Test of time winemaker Roberto Henríquez. ‘A new wine As consumers look for wines with identity, the can become a niche, but there’s a lot of País Criolla varieties offer the most authentic insight planted and I’m not sure the world is ready to into the history of South American viticulture. drink that much País! That’s the challenge, They could also hold the key to the future, not ‘Criolla Grande is a variety we need to and making sure it really does improve the only in the glass but in the ground too. quality of life for local farmers.’ Investment is happening in both private develop – it could become important for the A growing legion of winemakers in South and public research institutes in Chile and America are joining the cause, convinced that Argentina, mapping out the DNA of some true character of Latin American wine’ Criolla wines are not only the true heritage of Criolla varieties and using sensorial analysis to South America, but worthy champions of its identify the regional expressions – which have Matías Michelini, Passionate Wines (above) future. Only time will tell if the market catches long been recognised by the growers and on in the same way – before it’s too late. D humble drinkers of Pipeño wines. can survive in drought. País rootstocks are LOOKING FOR IMPORTER These old vines have stood the test of time being increasingly chosen in Chile for their Amanda Barnes is editor of www. because they are so well adapted – the skins resistance to the margarodes scale insect, and southamericawineguide.com, a guide to travel www.vinaprogreso.com are resistant, the wood is hardy and the vine suitability for dry farming. Going back to its and wine in Argentina, Brazil, Chile and Uruguay Vinaprogreso

Barnes’ pick: top South American Criolla wines to try Cadus, Signature Series Criolla, Uco Valley, Argentina 2017 91 Miguel Torres Chile, wild 100-year-old vines. It’s a textural Cara Sur, Criolla, Calingasta, £15.99 Boutinot Estelado Organic with bright citrus, apple and pear San Juan, Argentina 2016 93 90% Criolla Grande, 10% Criolla Chica, Wine Extra Brut, Secano notes and a long, mouthwatering finish. £28.50 Drinkmonger, Good Wine as planted in the . Fruity and Interior, Chile 2015 90 Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5% Online, Vagabond fresh, this juicy red has aromas of £14.99 Auriol, Latitude, Lewis & The Cara Sur wines helped to freshly cut strawberries with thyme. Cooper, Taylor’s Fine Wine Garage Wine Co, Single Ferment Series, put Argentinian Criolla on the After the discovery of a parcel of old This golden blanc de noirs Phoenix Ferment, Secano Interior, map and this rarity, which is a vines in Vista Flores, this is the first País is Torres Chile’s latest Chile 2017 90 100% Criolla Chica, comes of Criolla for Cadus – and a innovation following on from £15 Bibendum from 80-year-old vines grown triumph. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5% its bestseller brut rosé. It’s An innovative blend of 86% País and 14% at high altitude (1,500m). crisp and linear in character, , with grip and tannin making it a Delicate, floral, silky tannins, Clos des Fous, Pour Ma Gueule, Itata Valley, with fresh strawberry and blossom notes. great foodie white. This special en- and so light that it’s almost ethereal. Chile 2016 91 Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 12% primeur bottling series is an initiative to Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5% £12.70-£13.99 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Liberty Wines support local growers affected by 2017’s This País blend proves the great potential of Roberto Henríquez, Rivera del Notro bush fires. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.1% Roberto Henríquez, Santa Chile’s old-vine blends. Translating from the Blanco, Itata Valley, Chile 2017 94 Cruz de Coya País, Bío Bío, French as ‘for my gob’, the juicy black cherry £21.40 Wines Under the Bonnet A Los Viñateros Bravos, Chile 2017 93 aromas make your mouth water with a lively Wonderfully aromatic, honey-coloured Volcánico País, Itata Valley, £21.40 Wines Under the Bonnet finish and smooth tannins. Ultimately gluggable. old-vine blend: Criolla varieties Moscatel Chile 2015 93 Sourced from 200-year-old Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14% and Corinto with a touch of Semillon. £15.99 Les Caves de Pyrene vines which are grown on Dried flowers, hay and peach aromas, full From centenarian vines on Henríquez’s own 3ha vineyard Bouchon, Las Mercedes, Singular País, but fresh. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12.2% volcanic soils. Forest herbs in Bío Bío, where he works Maule Valley, Chile 2016 91 and red berry aromas, finesse with old raulí wood barrels to £13.50 Corkage, Starmore Boss, The Sampler Bouchon Family Wines, País Salvaje and fine-grained tannins on achieve a semi-carbonic A sprightly País with bright and juicy notes of Blanco, Maule Valley, Chile 2017 91 the palate. Leo Erazo’s label maceration. Vibrant, fragrant cherry, rosehip and raspberry tart and a crunchy, £16 Condor Wines with independent growers of and elegant style – you’ll need a second aromatic finish. A fabulously fresh new direction This artisanal white País is sourced from Itata. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12.5% bottle. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 12% for Bouchon in Maule. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5%

Pisano Artesanía Vinos Finos UK importer: Ellis of Richmond, London TW13 88 | October 2018 • DECANTER