176 Hermitage, 3, 4, 9, C 26–37 Caberet (club), 128 Index Isaac Brodsky Carnivals, 106 Index See also Accommoda- Museum, 42 Car rentals, 165, 166 tions and Restaurant Marble , 19 Cashpoints, 168 Museum of the Imperial indexes, below. Cathedral of Our Lady of Porcelain Factory, 31 Kazan, 3, 11 , 15–17 Cathedral of St Peter & A State Photography St Paul, 64 Achtung Baby (club), 127 Centre, 73–74 Catherine I, 18, 65 Adamson. A. G., 12 Stieglitz Museum of Catherine II, 10, 29, 32, 59, Admiralty, 9 Applied Arts, 18 65, 76 Air travel, 166–167 trophy art in, 36–37 Catherine (Ekaterininsky) Akhamatova, Anna, 47 Artillery Museum, 22, 63, 67 Palace, 157–159 Akhamatova Museums, 47 Art Market, 98a Caucasian dishes, 114 Alexander Column, 9 A.S. Popov Central Museum Cellphones, 165 Alexander Hall (Hermi- of Communications, 75 Central Naval Museum, 81 tage), 28 ATMs, 168 Central School of Design, 18 Alexander II, 8, 39, 73, 172 Avrora Cinema, 136 Central Station (club), 128 Alexander Nevsky Monas- Avrora (Aurora) cruiser, Chainy Dom, 77, 120, 125 tery, 3, 12–13, 53–54 22, 41, 43 Chernaya Rechka, 45 , 157 Avtovo (), 23 , 4, 61 Alexandrinsky Theatre, 77 Chesme Palace, 61 Alexandrovsky Lycee, 42 B Chet Poberi!, 120, 126 Aliye Parusa (Red Sails), Ballet, 130, 134–135 Children, activities for 4, 24, 165 Banya, 130, 135 amusement parks, 106 All-Union Leninist Communist Bars, 120, 125–127 in the Hermitage, 35 Youth League Park, 85 B&Bs, 149, 168 military museums, Amber Room (Tsarskoye Beloselsky-Belozersky 22–24, 63 Tselo), 157, 158 Palace, 76 performing arts as, American Medical Clinic, 169 Biking, 105, 106, 130, 77, 130, 139–140 Angliiskaya Naberezhnaya 135–136 at Peter Paul Fortress, (English Embankment), Birzhevaya Ploshad 66–67 10–11, 41 (Exchange Square), 24, 80 sports-related, 135, 140 Anichkov Bridge, 12, 49 Birzhevoy Bridge, 24 China, 95 Antiques, 94 Blagodat (club), 127 Chizhik Pizhik, 18 Apartment rentals, 148, 168 Blockade of Leningrad, Chocolate and cakes, 95–96 Apteka Pelya, 79 49–51 Christ Carrying the Cross Architecture Bloody Sunday, 40, 43, 172 (Titian), 35 along Bolshaya Mor- Blues, 120, 128 Christmas, 165 skaya, 73, 75 Boat rentals and tours, Churches and other religious Constructivist, 58, 60, 13, 105, 162 sites 61, 69, 70, 83–85, Bolshaya Morskaya, Alexander Nevsky Mon- 87, 172 72–75 astery, 3, 12–13, Gothic, 61 Bolshevik 53–54 Neoclassical, 9, 11, 58, headquarters, 41 Cathedral of Our Lady 59, 106, 171 Bolsheviks and revolution- of Kazan, 3, 11 Petrine , 18–19, aries tour, 38–43 Cathedral of St Peter & 58, 63, 158, 171 Bolshoi Dom, 58, 69–70 St Paul, 64 Russian Revival, 8–9, Books in English, 8, 95 Chesme Church, 4, 61 58–59 Bowling City, 139 Grand Choral Syna- Stalinist , Brodsky Museum, 42 gogue, 136 COPYRIGHTED60, 61, 69, 172 Bronze Horseman, 10 MATERIALGreat Church (Hermi- Style Moderne, 8, 12, 21, Brueghel, Pieter, the tage), 28 59–60, 73–74, 79, 87 Younger, 32 Mosque, 88 Armorial Hall (Hermitage), 28 Buffets, 118 Peter Paul Cathedral, Art galleries and museums, Bunkers, World War II-era, 51 22–24, 58 94–95 Buses and bus tours, St Andrew Cathedral, 79 Engineers’ Castle 13, 158, 167 St Isaac’s Cathedral, 4 (Mikhailovsky Castle), Business hours, 168 Smolny Cathedral, 58 4, 17–18 Church of St Catherine, 77 General Staff Building, 31, 59

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Church of the Spilled Blood, Dom Kultury im. Gorkovo Full-day tours, 6–24 Index 3, 8–9, 72 (Gorky Palace of one day, 6–13 Cinema, 136 Culture), 83 two day, 14–19 Circus, Great St Petersburg, Dom Kultury Lensoveta, 87 three day, 20–24 140 Dom Savicheva, 79–80 City Day, 63 Dom Sovetov, 42, 51, 61 G Classical music, 136–137 Dostoevsky, Fyodor, 39, 45, Gainsborough, Thomas, 28 Clubs, 120, 127–128 46, 54, 64, 66, 73, 75, 77 Gallery of Commandant’s House, 66 Dostoevsky Apartment (Hermitage), 29 Concert Hall Lensoveta, 138 Museum, 45 Gardens and parks Constructivist architecture, Drinking dens, 126–127 All-Union Leninist Com- 58, 60, 61, 69, 70, 83–85, Drinking water, 171 munist Youth League 87, 172 Driving, 167 Park, 85 Consulates, 168–169 Dvorets Kultury i Tekhniki im. Ekateringhof Park, 85 Credit cards, 169 Ivan Gaza, 84 Ekaterininsky Park, Crematoria, Siege, 103 Dzerzhinsky, Felix, 9, 69, 70 158, 159 Crime and Punishment Elagin Park, 105 (Fyodor Dostoevsky), E Lower Park (Peterhof), 45, 77 Economic Forum, 24 161–162 Crouching Youth (Michelan- 1812 Gallery (Hermitage), 28 Maxim Gorky Workers’ gelo Buonarroti), 35 Ekateringhof Park, 85 Garden, 9 Currency, 170 Ekaterininsky (Catherine) , Customs, 99, 169 Palace, 157–159 4, 17 Ekaterininsky Park, 158, 159 of Prospect Stachek, 85 D Elagin Island, 105–106 (Letniy Danae (Titian), 35 Elagin Palace, 105, 106 Sad), 18–19 The Dance (Henri Matisse), 37 Elagin Park, 105 Victory Parks, 102–103 Da Vinci, Leonardo, 35 Electricity, 169 Gas Dynamics Laboratory Day trips and excursions, Eliseevsky Gastronom, 3, 12 Museum, 67 156–162 Embassies, 168–169 Gay and lesbian travelers, 169 Peterdvorets (Peterhof), Emergency services, 169 Gay clubs, 128 3, 21, 58, 160–162, Engineers’ Castle (Mikhail- General Staff Building, 31, 59 171 ovsky Castle), 4, 17–18 Gifts, 97 Tsarskoye Tselo, 3, 21, Engineers’ House, 64 Glance, Mikhail, 54 58, 59, 156–159, 171 English Embankment (Angli- Gogol, Nikolai, 75 Death Gateway, 64 iskaya Naberezhnaya), Gold Drawing Room Decadence (bar), 125 10–11, 41 (Hermitage), 29 Decembrist uprising, 66, 74, Euromed, 169 Golden Triangle, 87 157, 172 Exchange rate, 170 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 21 Defenders of the Motherland Exchange Square (Birzhe- Gorky Palace of Culture Day, 165 vaya Ploshad), 24, 80 (Dom Kultury im. Derzhis (bar), 125 Extraordinary Commission, 9 Gorkovo), 83 Dialing codes, 11, 171 Extreme sports, 139 Gostiny Dvor, 59 Diamond Rooms, 31 , 61 Dickens Pub, 120, 126 F Gottorp Globe, 3, 80 Dining. See also Restaurant Faberge, 73 Grand Cascade, 3, 161 Index Famous residents tour, 52–55 Grand Choral Synagogue, 136 best bets, 108 Fashion, 100, 165 Grand Ducal Burial Vault, 66 buffets, 118 (1917), Grand Palace, 161 Caucasian dishes, 114 39, 43 Grand Suite (Hermitage), 28 maps, 109–112 Federal Security Service Graves, of Romanov Tsars, Disabilities, travelers with, (FSB), 69–70 64–65 171 Festivals, 165 Great Church (Hermitage), 28 District Soviet building, Field Marshalls’ Hall (Hermi- Great Hermitage, 27, 29, 32 former, 61, 85 tage), 27–28 The Great St Petersburg Divo Ostrov, 106 Field of Mars, 19, 42–43 Circus, 140 Doctors, 169 Finlyandsky Vokzal, 40–42 Great Terror, 83 Dolls, nesting, 15 Fish Fabrique (club), 127 Great Throne Room Dolphinarium, 130, 139 Food, shopping for, (Hermitage), 28 Dom Kino, 136 21, 95–96, 100 Green Belt of Glory, 51 Dom Knigi, 8, 95 Griboedov (club), 120, 127

116_714041-bindex.indd6_714041-bindex.indd 177177 66/18/09/18/09 9:149:14 PMPM 178 Griffin Tower, 79 I Krugliye Bani, 135 GULAG system, 70 Ice Palace, 137–138 Kunstkamera, 80 Ice skating, 130, 137–138 Kutuzov, Mikhail, 11, 28 Index H Ilyich DK, former, 60–61 Kuzechny Market, 99 Helicopter rides, 162 Institute of Professional- Helicopter tours, 22 Technical Education, 83 L Hermitage, 3, 4, 9, 26–37 Insurance, 169 Lazarev Cemetery, 53 Grandmasters’ art, International Women’s Day, Lenfilm Studios, 88 32–33 165 Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich, 21, 22, Impressionist art, 36–37 Internet access, 169 40, 41, 42, 43, 49, 53, 61, Italian Renaissance art, Isaac Brodsky Museum, 42 69, 70, 172 34–35 Ivan VI, 64 Lenin Zhiv! (bar), 43 State Rooms, 26–29 Letniy Sad (Summer Garden), , 59 J 18–19 History museums. See also James Cook (bar), 37, 126 Literary landmarks tour, Hermitage, State Rooms Jazz, 120, 128 44–47 Artillery Museum, Jazz Philharmonic Hall, 128 Literary museums 22, 63, 67 Jelsomino Café, 125 Akhamatova General Staff Building, Jet Set, 106, 130, 135 Museums, 47 31, 59 Jewelry, 97–98 Kirov Museum, 87 JFC Jazz Club, 120, 128 Apartment Kresty Prison, 70 Jimi Hendrix Blues Club, Museum, 46 Museum of the 120, 128 Dostoevsky Apartment Defense & Blockade , 28 Museum, 45 of Leningrad, 49 July Days, 43 Nabokov Museum, Museum of the History 46–47, 75 of Political Police in K Liverpool Pub, 128 , 69 Lobby Bar, 3, 120, 125 Kafe Stirka 40 (club), 120, 127 Museum of the History Lodging. See also Accommo- Kamenoostrovsky of Religion and Athe- dations Index Prospect, 87 ism, 11, 75 best bets, 142 Kammeny Island, 105 Museum of the History maps, 143–145 Kandinsky, Vasily, 37 of St Petersburg, 49 mini hotels, 147 Kapranov Dvorets Kultury, Museum of the His- near Ekaterininsky (Cath- former, 60 tory of the Political erine) Palace, 159 Kart Centre, 139 Police, 9 new openings, 148 Kart Land, 139 Zastava LoftWineBar, 94 Kazachy Bani, 135 Museum, 39 Lost property, 169–170 KGB, 69, 70 Peter’s Cabin, 21–22 Lower Park (Peterhof), Khrustalyov-Nosar, Rasputin’s Grisly End, 55 161–162 Georgy, 40 Rumyantsev Mansion, 80 Lycee, 157 Kirov, Sergei, 83, 85, 87, Smolny Institute, 41, 42 106, 172 State Museum of the Kirov islands, 104–106 M Political History of Kirov Museum, 87 Madonna and Child (Leo- Russia, 21, 41 Kirovskaya Ploshad, 84–85 nardo da Vinci), 35 of Peter Kirovsko-Vyborgskaya Metro Mail, 170 the Great, 31 line, 4 Malachite Room (Hermitage), Yelizarov Museum, Kirovsky rayon, 83 4, 29 4, 39, 53 Kirovsky Univermag, 84 , 19 History of St Petersburg, Kirovsky Zavod, 40, 51, 83 Mardi Gras (Maslenitsa), 165 39, 43, 171–173 , 106 , 74–75 Holiday Club St Petersburg, Kissing (Potseluyev) , 130, 134 80, 130, 135 Bridge, 75 Marine Study (Menshikov Holidays, 169 Klodt von Urgensburg, Palace), 81 Horrors of St Petersburg, 139 Peter, 12 Maritime City, 81 Hostels, 151–152, 154 Komosomolskaya Ploshad, 85 Markets, 98–100 Hotels. See Accommoda- Krasin (icebreaker), 81 Marly Palace, 161 tions Index , 106 Marshrutki, 51, 158, 162, 167 Hydrofoils, 162 Kresty Prison, 70 Maslenitsa (Mardi Gras), 165 Matisse, Henri, 37

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Matroshkas, 15 Museum of the Imperial gay clubs, 128 Index Maxim Gorky Workers’ Porcelain Factory, 31 jazz and blues, 128 Garden, 9 Museums, 10. See also live music venues, 128 MEDEM International Clinic, specific types, e.g.: Art maps, 121–124 169 museums Nikolaevna, Maria, 74–75 Memorial to the Heroic Artillery Museum, Defenders of Leningrad, 22, 63, 67 O 50–51 A.S. Popov Central Oceanarium, 130, 139–140 Memorial to the Victims of Museum of Commu- October Manifesto, 43 Political Repressions, 70 nications, 75 (1917), Memorial to the Victims of Central Naval 22, 39–43, 84, 172 the GULAG, 70 Museum, 81 Okhta Park, 138 Memorial Tram, 51 Gas Dynamics Labora- Oktyabrsky Concert Hall, Menshikov, Alexander tory Museum, 67 138, 139 Danilovich, 58, 80–81, 106 Kunstkamera, 80 Opera, 134–135 Menshikov Palace, 31, 58, Mir Gramafonov, 87–88 Orlandina (club), 128 80–81 Yelizarov Museum, 4 Orthodox Christmas, 165 Metro, 4, 23, 162, 167 Music The Other Side (club), 128 Michelangelo Buonarroti, 35 blues, 120, 128 Outdoor activities, 102–106 Midnight cruise, 13 classical, 136–137 three Kirov islands, Mikhailovsky Castle (Engi- jazz, 120, 128 104–106 neers’ Castle), 4, 17–18 venues for, 66, 128 two Victory Parks, Mikhailovsky Garden, 4, 17 Mussorgsky, Modest, 54 102–103 , Outlandish architecture, 15–17, 172 N 56–61 , 135 Nabokov, Vladimir, 46–47 Mini hotels, 147, 150–151, Nabokov Museum, 46–47, 75 P 153, 170 Narvskaya (metro station), 23 , 24 Mir Gramafonov, 87–88 Narvskaya Zastava and castles Mobile phones, 165 Museum, 39 Alexander Palace, 157 Mokko Klub, 77 Naryshkin Bastion, 66 Beloselsky-Belozersky Mollie’s Irish Bar, 126 Neighborhood walks, 72–88 Palace, 76 Money, 170 Bolshaya Morskaya, Chesme Palace, 61 Money Honey (club), 120, 128 72–75 Ekaterininsky (Cathe- Mon Plaisir, 162, 163 , 76–77 rine) Palace, 157–159 Montferrand, Auguste de, Petrogradskaya, 86–88 Elagin Palace, 105, 106 9, 10, 28, 74, 75 Vasilievsky Island, 78–81 Grand Palace, 161 Monument to the Revolu- Workers’ Paradise, Marble Palace, 19 tionary Fighters, 19 82–85 Mariinsky Palace, 74–75 Victory Park, Neoclassical architecture, Marly Palace, 161 130, 138 9, 11, 58, 59, 106, 171 Menshikov Palace, 31, Moskovsky Park Pobedy Neptune Sport & Leisure 58, 80–81 (Victory Park), 102–103 Complex, 130, 140 Mikhailovsky Castle Moskovsky Prospect, Nesting dolls, 15 (Engineers’ Castle), 60–61, 172 Panorama, 67 4, 17–18 Mosque, 88 Nevsky, Alexander, 29 Mikhailovsky Palace, Museum of Jewelry, 73 Nevsky Gate, 64 15–17, 172 Museum of Russian Nevsky Monastery, 3, 12–13, Mon Plaisir, 162, 163 Drama, 77 53–54 Romanov summer Museum of the Defense & Nevsky Prospect, 3, 76–77 palaces, 21 Blockade of Leningrad, 49 New Hermitage, 32 Sheremetyev Palace, 47 Museum of the History New Year’s Eve, 165 Stroganoff Palace, 77 of Political Police in Nicholas I, 10, 12, 46, 74 Summer Palace, Russia, 69 Nicholas II, 28, 43, 65 18–19, 58 Museum of the History of Nightlife, 120–128 Winter Palace, Religion and Atheism, bars, 125–126 24, 27–29, 43, 58, 11, 75 best bets, 120 66, 171, 172 Museum of the History of brew bars, pubs, and Winter Palace of Peter St Petersburg, 49 drinking dens, the Great, 31 Museum of the History of 126–127 Yusupov Palace, 55 the Political Police, 9 clubs, 127–128 Palace Square, 9

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Paragliding, 139 Potemkin (battleship), 43 Russian Insurance Society Parks. See Gardens and Potseluyev (Kissing) buildings, 73 parks Bridge, 75 ,

Index Passports, 170 Primorskii Park Pobedy (Vic- 114, 173–175 Paul I, 17, 65 tory Park), 102–103, 106 Russian Museum, 15–17 Pavilion Hall (Hermitage), Prisons and prisoners, 68–70 Russian National Library, 59 27, 29 Probka, 125 Russian Revival architecture, Peacock Clock, 29 Probka (bar), 125 8–9, 58–59 The People’s War tour, 48–51 Public toilets, 170 Ryumochnaya (bar), 126 People’s Will (submarine), 81 Pubs, 126–127 Ryumochnaya Vodka Room Peredvizniki (Wanderers’) Purga (club), 127–128 No. 1 (bar), 120, 126–127 school, 29 Pushkin, Alexander, Performing arts and enter- 45, 46, 157 S tainment, 130–140 Pushkin Apartment Safety, 170 ballet and opera, Museum, 46 St Andrew Cathedral, 79 134–135 Putin, Vladimir, 3, 21, 41, St George Hall (Hermitage), banya, 135 55, 172 28 best bets, 130 St Isaac’s Cathedral, biking and rollerblading, Q 4, 10, 172 135–136 Quarenghi, Giacomo, 35, 53, St Petersburg for children, 139–140 59, 157 favourite moments in, cinema, 136 Queen of Spades house, 75 2–4 classical music, 136–137 history of, 39, 43, extreme sports, 139 R 171–173 ice skating, 137–138 Raphael loggias, reproduc- St Petersburg Academic maps, 131–134 tion of, 35 Philharmonic, 137 skiing, 138 Rasputin, Grigori, 54–55 St Petersburg Fashion Week, spectator sports, Rasputin’s Grisly End 165 138, 139 (museum), 55 St Petersburg International swimming, 140 Rastrelli, Carlo, 15 Economic Forum, 165 tickets for, 137 Rastrelli, Francesco Bartolo- St Petersburg Male Ballet, Perspektiva society, 171 meo, 15, 28, 58, 77, 158, 130 Peterhof (Peterdvorets), 161, 171 St Petersburg Open, 165 3, 21, 58, 160–162, 171 Red Banner Textile Factory, St Petersburg Soviet of Peter I, 9, 18, 21, 29, 63–66, 4, 60 Workers’ Deputies, 39, 40 161, 162, 171 Red Sails (Aliye Parusa), St Petersburg State Male Peter Paul Cathedral, 4, 24, 165 Ballet, 134 22–24, 58 Rembrandt Harmenszoon St Petersburg Union for the Peter Paul Fortress, 22–24, van Rijn, 32, 33 Struggle of the Working 46, 62–67, 171 Revolution of 1905, 43 Class, 40, 41 Peter’s Cabin, 21–22 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 29 St Peter’s Gate, 63 Petrashevsky Circle, 66 Rimsky-Korsakov, Nikolai, 54 Savicheva, Tanya, 79–80 Petrine , Rimsky Korsakov Conserva- Scooter rentals, 105 18–19, 58, 63, 158, 171 tory, 136 Second All-Russian Congress Petrogradskaya, 86–88 Ritsevsky Hall (Hermitage), 35 of Soviets, 43 Petrovna, Elizabeth, 28, 29 Rodina Film Centre, 136 Secret House, 66 , 139 Rollerblading, 105, 106, 130, Senate, 10 Pharmacies, 96, 170 135–136 Seven Sky Bar, 125 Picasso, Pablo, 37 Romanov summer Shamrock (bar), 127 Pionerskaya Ploshad, 46 palaces, 21 Shemyakin, Mikhail, 64, 70 Piskaryovskoye Memorial Romanov tsars and tsarinas, Sheremetyev Palace, 47 Cemetery, 50 graves of, 64–65 Shopping, 90–100 Pivnaya 0.5 (bar), 126 Rossi, Carlo, 9, 10, 31, 53, antiques, 94 Ploshad Dekabristov, 10 59, 106 art galleries, 94–95 Ploshad Ostrovskovo, 76, 77 Rossi Pavilion, 17 best bets, 90 Ploshad Vosstaniya (metro Rossis (bar), 120, 125 books in English, 8, 95 station), 23, 42 Rostral Columns, 4, 80, 165 china and glass, 95 Popov Central Museum of Rubens, Peter Paul, 32–33 fashion, 100 Communications, 75 Rumyantsev Mansion, 49, 80 gifts and souvenirs, 97 Portrait of Pope Paul III Russian-Finnish Clinic Scandi- jewelry, 97–98 (Titian), 35 navia, 169 maps, 91–93 Postage, 170

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markets, 98–100 State Museum of the Politi- Trophy art, 36–37 Index specialty food, cal History of Russia, Trotsky, Leon, 39, 40, 66 95–96, 100 21, 41 Trubetskoy Bastion, 66 , 22, State Photography Centre, Tsarskoye Tselo, 3, 21, 58, 49–51, 79, 85, 103, 172 73–74 59, 156–159, 171 Siege well, 50 State Transport Service, 77 Turreted House, 87 Simacheva, Tanya, 49 Stieglitz Museum of Applied Twelve Colleges, 24, 58, 80 Singer Building, 8 Arts, 18 Skatprokat, 136 Stirka (club), 96 U Skiing, 138 Street Life (jazz club), 128 Udelnaya, 99 Skydiving, 139 Strelka, 24, 80 Ulitsa Zodchevo Rossi, 59 Small Field Marshalls’ Hall Stroganoff Palace, 77 Union of Russian Artists (Hermitage), 35 Style Moderne architecture, building, 73 Small Hermitage, 32 8, 12, 21, 59–60, 73–74, Small Throne Room (Hermi- 79, 87 V tage), 28 Summer Garden (Letniy Sad), Vasilievsky Island, 78–81 Smoking, 170–171 18–19 VAT tax, 171 Smolny Cathedral, 58 Summer Palace, 18–19, 58 Velazquez, Diego, 35 Smolny Institute, 3, 41, 42 Suvorov, Alexander, 58 Velten, Yuri, 32, 61 Snezhny Ski Centre, 138 Suvorov Museum, 58–59 Vernisazh, 4, 15 Sobchak, Anatoly, 41, 172 Swimming, 130, 140 Victory Day, 49, 165 Sochi (club), 128 Synod, 10 Victory Parks, 102–103, 106 Society for Religious and Victory Tank Memorial, 85 Moral Education, 77 T Visas, 164–165 Sosnoborsky Aeroclub, 130 Tap water, 171 Vitebsky Vokzal, 59–60 Souvenirs, 97 Taxes, 171 Volkovskoye Cemetery, 53 Special events, 165 Taxis, 167 Special interest tours, 26–70 Tchaikovsky, Pyotr, W Bolsheviks and revolu- 54, 73, 75 Walking around, 167 tionaries, 38–43 Technologichesky Institute, Walnut Room (Menshikov famous residents, 52–55 39, 40 Palace), 81 Hermitage: Grandmas- Telecommunications Work- Walruses (swimmers), 67 ters, 32–33 ers’ House of Culture, 75 Wanderers’ (Peredvizniki) Hermitage: Impression- Telephones, 11, 171 school, 29 ists, 36–37 10-Letnaya October Revolu- Water, drinking, 171 Hermitage: Italian tion School, 84 Waterville, 140 Renaissance, 34–35 Tennis, 165 Weather, 164, 165 Hermitage: State Terrace Bar, 120, 126 Websites, useful, 166 Rooms, 26–29 Thunder Stone, 10 Western Gallery literary landmarks, Tickets, 31, 137 (Hermitage), 37 44–47 Tiffany’s Cafe, 126 White Nights, 24 outlandish architecture, Tikhvin Cemetery, 53 Winter Palace, 24, 27–29, 56–61 Tikhvinskoye Cemetery, 43, 58, 66, 171, 172. The People’s War, 48–51 12–13 See also Hermitage Peter Paul Fortress, Tinkoff (bar), 120, 127 Winter Palace of Peter the 62–67 Tipping, 171 Great, 31 prisons and prisoners, Titian, 35 Witte, Sergei, 39, 43 68–70 Toilets, public, 170 Workers’ Paradise, 82–85 Spectator sports, Tourist information, 164, 171 World War II, 36, 51, 70, 85, 106, 138, 139 Tours 157, 161. See also Siege Speedboats, 162 boat, 13, 162 of Leningrad Sports, 105, 135–140 bus, 13 Staircase, Jordan, 28 helicopter, 22 Stalin, Josef, 49, 66, 87 Trains, 158, 162, 167 Y Stalinist Classicist architec- Traktrornaya Ulitsa, 84 Yamskiye Bani, 135 ture, 60, 61, 69, 172 Treasury Gallery’s Gold, 31 Yelizarov Museum, 4, 39, 53 Staraya Derevnya, 31 Tree , 162 Yunniy Baltiets (tall ship), 81 State Academic Capella, 137 Trezzini, Domenico, 58, 63, Yunona (market), 100 State Hermitage Theatre, 64, 79, 80 Yusupov Palace, 55 134 Troitsky Bridge, 87

116_714041-bindex.indd6_714041-bindex.indd 181181 66/18/09/18/09 9:149:14 PMPM 182 Z Prestige Hotel, 152–153 Gelateria Venezia, 115 Zagorodny Prospect, 60 Private Business Hotel Get&Go, 12 Zakhraov, Adrian, 9 Suzor, 153 Grand Café, 85 Index Zhukhov, Georgy, 103 Radisson SAS Royal Hotel, Idiot Cafe, 115 153 Kade Galerya, 161 Accommodations RandhousE, 153 Kafe Otdikh, 105 Renaissance St Petersburg Karavan, 115 Index Baltic Hotel, 116–117, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, Alexander House Hotel, 126, 142, 153 33, 108, 113–114 142, 146 Royal Antares Hotel, KFC, 67 Alexander Platz Hotel, 146 142, 153 Khachapurnaya, 115 Angleterre Hotel, 10, 142, 146 St Petersburg International Leningrad, 116 Antique Hotel Rachmanni- Hostel, 142, 154 Lenin Zhiv, 108 nov, 146–147 Sokos Hotel Olympic L’Europe, 108, 115–116 Art Hotel St Petersburg, Garden, 153 Literaturnoye Kafe, 46 147, 148 Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge, Mama Roma, 108, 116 Austrian Yard, 148 142, 153–154 McDonald’s, 67 Azimit Hotel St Petersburg, Starwood W, 148 Messieurs Patissiers, 83 148–149 Staybridge Suites St Peters- Mezzanine Café, 27 B&B Swiss Star, 149 burg-Moskovskie Vorota, Monastery Café, 54 Belveder Nevsky Hotel, 149 148 Noble’s Nest (Dvorianskoye Best Corner Hotel, 149 Taleon Imperial Hotel, Gnezdo), 108, 115 Brothers Karamazov, 154 142, 154 Odeon Café, 35 Casa Leto, 149–150 Old Customs House, 116 Corinthia Nevskij Palace Ontrome, 73 Hotel, 76, 150 Restaurant Index Aquarel, 113 Palkin, 116 Courtyard St Petersburg Aragavi, 113 Park Giusseppe, 116 Vasilievsky, 150 Art Bufet, 74 Parkovka, 116 Ermitage Hotel, 150 Backstage, 113 Pirozhkovaya, 103 Four Seasons, 148 Baku, 108, 113 Pizza Hut, 67 Grand Hotel Europe, 27, Beau Rivage, 113, 114 Progress, 61 115–116, 125, 142, 150 Bellevue, 113, 114 Prokoffi, 8 Helvetia Hotel & Suites, 150 Bellini, 81 Renaissance St Petersburg Herzen House Hotel, 150–151 Bierstube, 76, 108, 118 Baltic Hotel, 116–117 Holiday Inn Moskovskiye Bolshaya Medveditsa, 83 Restoran Gastronom, 117 Vorota, 142, 151 Botanica, 108, 114 Restoran Podvorye, 108, 159 Hotel Astoria, 151 Bulochnaya Garcon, 114 Rotunda Lounge, 74, 108 Hotel Ekaterina, 159 Bulochnaya No. 602, 69 Sever, 51, 96 Hotel Ibis St Petersburg Café M-Art, 88 Sevilla Restaurant, 80, 118 Moskovsky Vokzal, 151 Cafe Max, 27 Shury-Mury, 108, 117 Hotel Natalya, 159 Café Mon Plaisir, 162 Sladkoeshka, 21 Idilliya Inn, 142, 151 Café Na Gorokhovoi, 55 Stolle, 29 Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, Café Ostrov, 106 Stray Dog Café, 15, 17 33, 113–114, 151 Cat Cafe, 108, 114 Stroganoff Steak House, Loftprojectetagi, 151 Coté Jardin, 118 108, 117 Nevsky Hotels Group, Davidov, 114–115 Taleon Club, 117 151–152 Dickens Pub, 40, 108 Tandoor, 117 Novotel St Petersburg Dvorianskoye Gnezdo Tbiliso, 117 Center, 142, 152 (Noble’s Nest), 108, 115 Testo Mesto, 117, 118 Octaviana Hotel, 152 Flying Dutchman, 115 Tsar, 118 Oktyabrskaya Hotel, Frikadelki, 8 Vostochniy Express, 13, 108 142, 152 Gallery Café, 10, 108 Yerevan, 118 Petro Palace Hotel, 152 Yolki Palki, 108, 118

116_714041-bindex.indd6_714041-bindex.indd 182182 66/18/09/18/09 9:149:14 PMPM 183 Photo Photo Credits Credits Front Matter Credits: i: © Ellen Rooney / Axiom; © Neil Setchfield / Alamy; © Bartek Cieniawa; ii: © Bartek Cieniawa; © Bartek Cieniawa; © Bartek Cieniawa; © Danita Delimont / Alamy; © Bartek Cieniawa; iii: © Rohan Van Twest / Alamy; Serge Bogomyako / Alamy; © Jeff Greenberg / Alamy; © Belveder-Nevsky Hotel; © Bartek Cieniawa; viii: Picture Finders / PCL.

All images © Bartek Cieniawa with the following exceptions:

© Belveder-Nevsky Hotel: p141, p148; © Corinthia Nevskij Palace Hotel: p149; © Grand Hotel Europe (Alessandro Battistessa): p116, p120; © Hillary Gilbert: p23, p66, p126; © JSC Taleon: p154; © N. Kholodova & Austrian Yard: p147; © Seven Sky Bar: p125; © Shutter- stock: p98; © The Angleterre Hotel: p146; © The Bridgeman Art Library: p33 both, p35, p37; © The Rocco Forte Collection: p115, p150; © The State (Ukhtom- sky, Konstantin Andreyevich) : p28, p29; Courtesy of Alamy: p89 (© Danita Delimont); p90 (© Art Kowalsky); p97 (© Alex Segre); p100 (© Y.Levy); p107 (© Rohan Van Twest); p119 (© Serge Bogomyako); p129 (© Jeff Greenberg); Courtesy of Kempinski Hotel Moika 22: p108, p113; Courtesy of Novotel St Petersburg Centre: p152; Courtesy of St. Petersburg Academic Philharmonic: p137; Courtesy of the Ice Palace, St Petersburg: p138; Courtesy of Novotel St Petersburg Centre: p152.

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