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176 Hermitage, 3, 4, 9, C 26–37 Caberet (club), 128 Index Isaac Brodsky Carnivals, 106 Index See also Accommoda- Museum, 42 Car rentals, 165, 166 tions and Restaurant Marble Palace, 19 Cashpoints, 168 Museum of the Imperial indexes, below. Cathedral of Our Lady of Porcelain Factory, 31 Kazan, 3, 11 Russian Museum, 15–17 Cathedral of St Peter & A State Photography St Paul, 64 Achtung Baby (club), 127 Centre, 73–74 Catherine I, 18, 65 Adamson. A. G., 12 Stieglitz Museum of Catherine II, 10, 29, 32, 59, Admiralty, 9 Applied Arts, 18 65, 76 Air travel, 166–167 trophy art in, 36–37 Catherine (Ekaterininsky) Akhamatova, Anna, 47 Artillery Museum, 22, 63, 67 Palace, 157–159 Akhamatova Museums, 47 Art Market, 98a Caucasian dishes, 114 Alexander Column, 9 A.S. Popov Central Museum Cellphones, 165 Alexander Hall (Hermi- of Communications, 75 Central Naval Museum, 81 tage), 28 ATMs, 168 Central School of Design, 18 Alexander II, 8, 39, 73, 172 Avrora Cinema, 136 Central Station (club), 128 Alexander Nevsky Monas- Avrora (Aurora) cruiser, Chainy Dom, 77, 120, 125 tery, 3, 12–13, 53–54 22, 41, 43 Chernaya Rechka, 45 Alexander Palace, 157 Avtovo (metro station), 23 Chesme Church, 4, 61 Alexandrinsky Theatre, 77 Chesme Palace, 61 Alexandrovsky Lycee, 42 B Chet Poberi!, 120, 126 Aliye Parusa (Red Sails), Ballet, 130, 134–135 Children, activities for 4, 24, 165 Banya, 130, 135 amusement parks, 106 All-Union Leninist Communist Bars, 120, 125–127 in the Hermitage, 35 Youth League Park, 85 B&Bs, 149, 168 military museums, Amber Room (Tsarskoye Beloselsky-Belozersky 22–24, 63 Tselo), 157, 158 Palace, 76 performing arts as, American Medical Clinic, 169 Biking, 105, 106, 130, 77, 130, 139–140 Angliiskaya Naberezhnaya 135–136 at Peter Paul Fortress, (English Embankment), Birzhevaya Ploshad 66–67 10–11, 41 (Exchange Square), 24, 80 sports-related, 135, 140 Anichkov Bridge, 12, 49 Birzhevoy Bridge, 24 China, 95 Antiques, 94 Blagodat (club), 127 Chizhik Pizhik, 18 Apartment rentals, 148, 168 Blockade of Leningrad, Chocolate and cakes, 95–96 Apteka Pelya, 79 49–51 Christ Carrying the Cross Architecture Bloody Sunday, 40, 43, 172 (Titian), 35 along Bolshaya Mor- Blues, 120, 128 Christmas, 165 skaya, 73, 75 Boat rentals and tours, Churches and other religious Constructivist, 58, 60, 13, 105, 162 sites 61, 69, 70, 83–85, Bolshaya Morskaya, Alexander Nevsky Mon- 87, 172 72–75 astery, 3, 12–13, Gothic, 61 Bolshevik Petrograd Soviet 53–54 Neoclassical, 9, 11, 58, headquarters, 41 Cathedral of Our Lady 59, 106, 171 Bolsheviks and revolution- of Kazan, 3, 11 Petrine Baroque, 18–19, aries tour, 38–43 Cathedral of St Peter & 58, 63, 158, 171 Bolshoi Dom, 58, 69–70 St Paul, 64 Russian Revival, 8–9, Books in English, 8, 95 Chesme Church, 4, 61 58–59 Bowling City, 139 Grand Choral Syna- Stalinist Classicism, Brodsky Museum, 42 gogue, 136 COPYRIGHTED60, 61, 69, 172 Bronze Horseman, 10 MATERIALGreat Church (Hermi- Style Moderne, 8, 12, 21, Brueghel, Pieter, the tage), 28 59–60, 73–74, 79, 87 Younger, 32 Mosque, 88 Armorial Hall (Hermitage), 28 Buffets, 118 Peter Paul Cathedral, Art galleries and museums, Bunkers, World War II-era, 51 22–24, 58 94–95 Buses and bus tours, St Andrew Cathedral, 79 Engineers’ Castle 13, 158, 167 St Isaac’s Cathedral, 4 (Mikhailovsky Castle), Business hours, 168 Smolny Cathedral, 58 4, 17–18 Church of St Catherine, 77 General Staff Building, 31, 59 116_714041-bindex.indd6_714041-bindex.indd 117676 66/18/09/18/09 99:14:14 PPMM 177 Church of the Spilled Blood, Dom Kultury im. Gorkovo Full-day tours, 6–24 Index 3, 8–9, 72 (Gorky Palace of one day, 6–13 Cinema, 136 Culture), 83 two day, 14–19 Circus, Great St Petersburg, Dom Kultury Lensoveta, 87 three day, 20–24 140 Dom Savicheva, 79–80 City Day, 63 Dom Sovetov, 42, 51, 61 G Classical music, 136–137 Dostoevsky, Fyodor, 39, 45, Gainsborough, Thomas, 28 Clubs, 120, 127–128 46, 54, 64, 66, 73, 75, 77 Gallery of Peter the Great Commandant’s House, 66 Dostoevsky Apartment (Hermitage), 29 Concert Hall Lensoveta, 138 Museum, 45 Gardens and parks Constructivist architecture, Drinking dens, 126–127 All-Union Leninist Com- 58, 60, 61, 69, 70, 83–85, Drinking water, 171 munist Youth League 87, 172 Driving, 167 Park, 85 Consulates, 168–169 Dvorets Kultury i Tekhniki im. Ekateringhof Park, 85 Credit cards, 169 Ivan Gaza, 84 Ekaterininsky Park, Crematoria, Siege, 103 Dzerzhinsky, Felix, 9, 69, 70 158, 159 Crime and Punishment Elagin Park, 105 (Fyodor Dostoevsky), E Lower Park (Peterhof), 45, 77 Economic Forum, 24 161–162 Crouching Youth (Michelan- 1812 Gallery (Hermitage), 28 Maxim Gorky Workers’ gelo Buonarroti), 35 Ekateringhof Park, 85 Garden, 9 Currency, 170 Ekaterininsky (Catherine) Mikhailovsky Garden, Customs, 99, 169 Palace, 157–159 4, 17 Ekaterininsky Park, 158, 159 of Prospect Stachek, 85 D Elagin Island, 105–106 Summer Garden (Letniy Danae (Titian), 35 Elagin Palace, 105, 106 Sad), 18–19 The Dance (Henri Matisse), 37 Elagin Park, 105 Victory Parks, 102–103 Da Vinci, Leonardo, 35 Electricity, 169 Gas Dynamics Laboratory Day trips and excursions, Eliseevsky Gastronom, 3, 12 Museum, 67 156–162 Embassies, 168–169 Gay and lesbian travelers, 169 Peterdvorets (Peterhof), Emergency services, 169 Gay clubs, 128 3, 21, 58, 160–162, Engineers’ Castle (Mikhail- General Staff Building, 31, 59 171 ovsky Castle), 4, 17–18 Gifts, 97 Tsarskoye Tselo, 3, 21, Engineers’ House, 64 Glance, Mikhail, 54 58, 59, 156–159, 171 English Embankment (Angli- Gogol, Nikolai, 75 Death Gateway, 64 iskaya Naberezhnaya), Gold Drawing Room Decadence (bar), 125 10–11, 41 (Hermitage), 29 Decembrist uprising, 66, 74, Euromed, 169 Golden Triangle, 87 157, 172 Exchange rate, 170 Gorbachev, Mikhail, 21 Defenders of the Motherland Exchange Square (Birzhe- Gorky Palace of Culture Day, 165 vaya Ploshad), 24, 80 (Dom Kultury im. Derzhis (bar), 125 Extraordinary Commission, 9 Gorkovo), 83 Dialing codes, 11, 171 Extreme sports, 139 Gostiny Dvor, 59 Diamond Rooms, 31 Gothic architecture, 61 Dickens Pub, 120, 126 F Gottorp Globe, 3, 80 Dining. See also Restaurant Faberge, 73 Grand Cascade, 3, 161 Index Famous residents tour, 52–55 Grand Choral Synagogue, 136 best bets, 108 Fashion, 100, 165 Grand Ducal Burial Vault, 66 buffets, 118 February Revolution (1917), Grand Palace, 161 Caucasian dishes, 114 39, 43 Grand Suite (Hermitage), 28 maps, 109–112 Federal Security Service Graves, of Romanov Tsars, Disabilities, travelers with, (FSB), 69–70 64–65 171 Festivals, 165 Great Church (Hermitage), 28 District Soviet building, Field Marshalls’ Hall (Hermi- Great Hermitage, 27, 29, 32 former, 61, 85 tage), 27–28 The Great St Petersburg Divo Ostrov, 106 Field of Mars, 19, 42–43 Circus, 140 Doctors, 169 Finlyandsky Vokzal, 40–42 Great Terror, 83 Dolls, nesting, 15 Fish Fabrique (club), 127 Great Throne Room Dolphinarium, 130, 139 Food, shopping for, (Hermitage), 28 Dom Kino, 136 21, 95–96, 100 Green Belt of Glory, 51 Dom Knigi, 8, 95 Griboedov (club), 120, 127 116_714041-bindex.indd6_714041-bindex.indd 117777 66/18/09/18/09 99:14:14 PPMM 178 Griffin Tower, 79 I Krugliye Bani, 135 GULAG system, 70 Ice Palace, 137–138 Kunstkamera, 80 Ice skating, 130, 137–138 Kutuzov, Mikhail, 11, 28 Index H Ilyich DK, former, 60–61 Kuzechny Market, 99 Helicopter rides, 162 Institute of Professional- Helicopter tours, 22 Technical Education, 83 L Hermitage, 3, 4, 9, 26–37 Insurance, 169 Lazarev Cemetery, 53 Grandmasters’ art, International Women’s Day, Lenfilm Studios, 88 32–33 165 Lenin, Vladimir Ilyich, 21, 22, Impressionist art, 36–37 Internet access, 169 40, 41, 42, 43, 49, 53, 61, Italian Renaissance art, Isaac Brodsky Museum, 42 69, 70, 172 34–35 Ivan VI, 64 Lenin Zhiv! (bar), 43 State Rooms, 26–29 Letniy Sad (Summer Garden), Hermitage Theatre, 59 J 18–19 History museums. See also James Cook (bar), 37, 126 Literary landmarks tour, Hermitage, State Rooms Jazz, 120, 128 44–47 Artillery Museum, Jazz Philharmonic Hall, 128 Literary museums 22, 63, 67 Jelsomino Café, 125 Akhamatova General Staff Building, Jet Set, 106, 130, 135 Museums, 47 31, 59 Jewelry, 97–98 Alexander Pushkin Kirov Museum, 87 JFC Jazz Club, 120, 128 Apartment Kresty Prison, 70 Jimi Hendrix Blues Club, Museum, 46 Museum of the 120, 128 Dostoevsky Apartment Defense & Blockade Jordan Staircase, 28 Museum, 45 of Leningrad, 49 July Days, 43 Nabokov Museum, Museum of the History 46–47, 75 of Political Police in K Liverpool Pub, 128 Russia, 69 Lobby Bar, 3, 120, 125 Kafe Stirka 40 (club), 120, 127 Museum of the History Lodging. See also Accommo- Kamenoostrovsky of Religion and Athe- dations Index Prospect, 87 ism, 11, 75 best bets, 142 Kammeny Island, 105 Museum of the History maps, 143–145 Kandinsky, Vasily, 37 of St Petersburg, 49 mini hotels, 147 Kapranov Dvorets Kultury, Museum of the His- near Ekaterininsky (Cath- former, 60 tory of the Political erine) Palace, 159 Kart Centre, 139 Police, 9 new openings, 148 Kart Land, 139 Narvskaya Zastava LoftWineBar, 94 Kazachy Bani, 135 Museum, 39 Lost property, 169–170 KGB, 69, 70 Peter’s Cabin, 21–22 Lower Park (Peterhof), Khrustalyov-Nosar, Rasputin’s Grisly End, 55 161–162 Georgy, 40 Rumyantsev Mansion, 80 Lycee, 157 Kirov, Sergei, 83, 85, 87, Smolny Institute, 41, 42 106, 172 State Museum of the Kirov islands, 104–106 M Political History of Kirov Museum, 87 Madonna and Child (Leo- Russia, 21, 41 Kirovskaya Ploshad, 84–85 nardo da Vinci), 35 Winter Palace of Peter Kirovsko-Vyborgskaya Metro Mail, 170 the Great, 31 line, 4 Malachite Room (Hermitage), Yelizarov Museum, Kirovsky rayon, 83 4, 29 4, 39, 53 Kirovsky Univermag, 84 Marble Palace, 19 History of St Petersburg, Kirovsky Zavod, 40, 51, 83 Mardi Gras (Maslenitsa), 165 39, 43, 171–173 Kirov Stadium, 106 Mariinsky Palace, 74–75 Holiday Club St Petersburg, Kissing (Potseluyev) Mariinsky Theatre, 130, 134 80, 130, 135 Bridge, 75 Marine Study (Menshikov Holidays, 169 Klodt von Urgensburg, Palace), 81 Horrors of St Petersburg, 139 Peter, 12 Maritime City, 81 Hostels, 151–152, 154 Komosomolskaya Ploshad, 85 Markets, 98–100 Hotels.