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St Petersburg 8 Plan Your Trip 12 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd St Petersburg “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Regis St Louis, Simon Richmond Contents PlanPlan Your Your Trip Trip page 1 4 Welcome to Top Itineraries ���������������20 Travelling to Moscow ����36 St Petersburg ������������������ 4 If You Like� ����������������������22 Museums St Petersburg’s Month by Month ������������24 & Galleries �������������������37 Top 10 ������������������������������� 6 With Kids ������������������������26 Eating ���������������������������39 What’s New �������������������� 13 Money-Saving Tips �������28 Drinking Need to Know �����������������14 & Nightlife ������������������ 43 Visas �������������������������������29 First Time Entertainment ������������ 46 St Petersburg �����������������16 Tours & Activities �����������31 Shopping ��������������������� 48 Getting Around �������������� 18 Visiting on a Cruise �������34 Explore St Petersburg 50 Historic Heart ����������������54 Vasilyevsky Island ������� 143 Day Trips from Sennaya & Kolomna ���104 Petrograd & St Petersburg ������������ 173 Vyborg Sides ��������������� 154 Smolny & Sleeping ���������������������186 Vosstaniya ��������������������121 Understand St Petersburg 197 St Petersburg History ������������������������� 200 Arts �������������������������������226 Today ���������������������������� 198 Architecture ����������������� 219 Literature ���������������������236 Survival Guide 241 Transport ���������������������242 Language ��������������������� 251 Directory A–Z ��������������246 Index ���������������������������� 260 St Petersburg Maps 270 OLGA SUSHKOVA / 500PX © © SHUTTERSTOCK / RAIKIN DMITRY (left) St Isaac’s Cathe- GARY LATHAM / LONELY PLANET © PLANET LONELY / LATHAM GARY dral p82 Known for its lavish mosaic interior� (above) Grotto Pavilion p180 Located in Cath- erine Park, Pushkin� (right) Winter Palace p56 Iconic symbol of the Hermitage� Petrograd & Vyborg Sides p154 Vasilyevsky Island p143 Historic Heart p54 Smolny & Sennaya & Vosstaniya Kolomna p121 p104 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 20 Top Itineraries Day One Day Two Historic Heart (p54) Historic Heart (p54) Begin your first day by taking a stroll After a hearty breakfast, head to the M down Nevsky pr, the city’s central M and get ready for a day of Hermitage avenue that connects the Hermitage to the artistic exhilaration. Choose which parts of Alexander Nevsky Monastery at the far the collection you want to see, though leave end. Start at Ploshchad Vosstaniya, cross some room for on-the-spot decision making the lovely Fontanka, drop into the Church – the exhibition is so enormous that you’ll of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood and inevitably discover something new. As well the Kazan Cathedral and end up at the as the art, don’t miss the staterooms, and dazzling ensemble of Palace Square, the allow yourself plenty of rest stops to avoid Winter Palace and the General Staff exhaustion. Building. Wander along the embankment to the Summer Garden and then wander Lunch Savour some excellent Russian back along the Moyka River. cuisine at Yat (p93). Lunch Dine with adorable cuddly toys Historic Heart (p54) at cosy Zoom Café (p91). R You may still want to spend a few hours in the museum and make the Sennaya & Kolomna (p104) most of your day ticket. But if you leave and R Continue along the Moyka to St still have some energy, wander along before Isaac’s Cathedral, visit the aston- picking up a sightseeing cruise around the ishingly elaborate interiors and then climb canals – the best way to sightsee without to the top of the dome for superb views of the having to do any more walking! city. Follow the Moyka down to the Yusupov Palace and the Mariinsky Theatre, end- Dinner Enjoy a pre- or post-theatre ing up at the beautiful sky-blue Nikolsky meal at The Répa (p116). Cathedral. Sennaya & Kolomna (p104) Dinner Enjoy the antique atmosphere If you’ve booked ahead, dress up and vegetarian dishes of Idiot (p116). N to spend the evening watching a ballet from the classical repertoire of the Historic Heart (p54) Mariinsky Theatre. Even if you haven’t N If the dive bars of Dumskaya ul booked, it’s usually quite possible to do so don’t appeal, Apotheke Bar is a last minute in one of the other theatres in convivial spot for cocktails nearby. Alter- town. For a late-night drink with live jazz natively the Belle View rooftop bar at the drop by Hat. Kempinski Hotel Moyka 22 does indeed offer superb views. 21 ANTON KUDELIN / SHUTTERSTOCK © SHUTTERSTOCK / KUDELIN ANTON PLAN YOUR TRIP Summer Garden (p84) Day Three Day Four TO P I Petrograd & Vyborg Sides (p154) Around St Petersburg (p173) tiner M This is your chance to explore the M Head out of the city early to spend beautiful Petrograd Side. Start with the day in tsarist opulence. Go first A ries a visit to the Peter & Paul Fortress to to Tsarskoe Selo in order to visit the see where the city began, wander past the Catherine Palace and have a walk in the mosque and perhaps drop in to see either gardens. If you’re still wanting more, head Peter’s Cabin or the very interesting for Pavlovsk, a quick bus ride away, where Museum of Political History. Wander the park is even wilder and more beautiful. down Kamennoostrovsky pr to take in the Russian Style Moderne architecture. Lunch Eat at White Rabbit (p180) in the town of Pushkin. Lunch Enjoy great views over the Neva at Koryushka (p169). Historic Heart (p54) Return to the city in the afternoon Vasilyevsky Island (p143) R and slot in the Russian Museum, R After lunch, walk across to Vasi- the perfect complement to the Hermitage. lyevsky Island, and wander the This spectacular (and far more manage- historic ensemble around the Strelka. able) museum showcases seven centuries Visit the Kunstkamera, Peter the Great’s personal cabinet of curiosities, and drop Dinner Settle in for a wonderful set in to the very interesting Menshikov meal at EM restaurant (p116). Palace to see the oldest standing palace in the city. If you enjoy contemporary art, of Russian art from church icons to the Dinner Dine in understated Russian avant-garde. elegance at Restoran (p152). Smolny & Vosstaniya (p121) continue on to the excellent Erarta Mu- Bar hop from ul Rubinshteyna seum of Contemporary Art. N north along the Fontanka, sneaking into the secret bar Commode, followed by Union and Terminal Bar. Catch a live Smolny & Vosstaniya (p121) band at Fish Fabrique, Cosmonaut or N Head south to happening Voss- alternative favourite Griboyedov for a taniya to gallery-, bar- and gig- taste of what’s cooking on the local music hop around Ligovsky pr. See some new scene. artwork at Loft Project ETAGI and, if it’s summer, enjoy a drink in the sand and some table football at Dyuni. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 270 St Petersburg Maps Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book 271 Ð"4 VYBORG SIDE M a PETROGRAD la ya SIDE N eva N eva Ð"5 1 1 1 1 Ð"2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Ð"1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 VA1SIL1YEVSKY a ev LITEYNY SMOLNY 1 1 I1SLAND N 1 1 1 1 a ay lsh Bo MARIINSKY SENNAYA Gulf of KOLOMNA Finland VOSSTANIYA (Finsky Zaliv) Ð"3 l a n a K y o k s r o M AVTOVO 0 2 km e# 0 1 mile MAP INDEX Petrograd & Vyborg 1 Historic Heart (p272) 4 Sides (p284) 2 Smolny & Vosstaniya (p276) 5 Vasilyevsky Island (p286) 3 Sennaya & Kolomna (p280) 272 Key on p274 i A B C D j E F G H See map Birzhevoy Malay p284 a Neva most 1 1 n ab Maka rova a l ev RT u N a ay Birzhevaya sk y ea s ifli vo pl T he irz zd B oe pr 136 #þ C H y I vo he Moshkov irz zd Ermitazhny 2 B oe 52 per 2 VASILYEVSKY pr most â##ý 117 ü# ISLAND Z k i m T a a n n #ú STOR m a y State 6 â# 17 v I o a z k y h Hermitage â# a a 173 p e H r n Museum í# n â# 162 â# y ÿ# Dvortsovy æ# 15 â# 29 most 39 Vtoroy Zimny #ú ab 0000051000000000000 a n 0000000000000000mo0st i 82 ay 00000V#000000000000 k tsk 00000000000000000 y #þ e 000â#00000000000000
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