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Home , Alexander Nevsky Lavra, Alexei Razumovsky, Beef Stroganoff, Catherine Palace, Chesme Church, Diamond Fund

Considered the central square of , the is one of ’s most vibrant public spaces and was the location of the country’s most important historical and political events since the 13th century. PABLO1980 / CONTRIBUTOR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM A Visit to Woman Catherine of the the Great’s World With women-centric travel by Jennifer Eremeeva skyrocketing, one female-run, female-only travel company is offering the chance for life- Russia changing experiences. By Angela Caraway-Carlton

90 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’automne 2019 • 91 Aerial view of the Winter and Aleksandr Column in Palace Square as seen through the triumphal chariot, a symbol of military glory, beyond ascertaining which languages she faith. Russia had weathered a 200-year atop the arch of the General Staff Building. could speak. This was less of a concern DROZDIN VLADIMIR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM occupation by the Tatar Mongols, and the than her ability to give birth to an heir. Had civilizing influences of the Renaissance and Elizabeth inquired, she might have learned Reformation had passed the country by. that Princess Sophia was unusually bright In the subsequent two centuries, there had and well trained by a dedicated governess been frequent violent uprisings, civil strife who had honed and developed Sophia’s and numerous succession crises. , portrait painting keen mind and natural curiosity, instilling in profile by , 1763. Sophia was following in the footsteps in Sophia rigorous study habits that would of another Princess Sophia who had left serve the princess well in the years to come. an indelible mark on Russia, arriving As Sophia made her way across in 1472 to marry Grand Prince Ivan. It Northern Europe in the dead of winter, was this Sophia who transformed the excitement and anticipation were no doubt modest wooden Moscow “Kremlin” into tempered with some anxiety. Russia was an impressive complex of elegant royal not like her native , then a neat and magnificent stone churches patchwork quilt of small principalities, topped with glittering gold domes, worthy Grand Duchies, and Landgraviates. It was of the Imperial legacy she brought as only half a century since well as its ancient symbols and traditions: had dragged his medieval realm into the the double-headed eagle and the community of European nations, ordering Imperial Roman title “Caesar,” which The his nobles to embrace European styles of was translated into Russian as “.” monument, erected dress and behavior. Russia was a Christian However, the majesty and might of this by Catherine the Great, and St. Isaac’s nation, but the alien, more mystical branch was not lost on Sophia Cathedral in of Eastern Orthodoxy rather than Roman of Anhalt-Zerbst. She was less impressed Senate Square. Catholicism or Sophia’s own Lutheran with Peter, her prospective bridegroom, G_REG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ussia’s greatest ruler was never destined to than 5,000 dresses and dazzling jewels. She role as Russia’s autocrat, Peter proved sit on the Imperial throne. loved masked balls, the thrill of the chase a poor student and loathed everything But Catherine the Great firmly believed both of quarry and handsome men; many about his adopted country. The only thing that destiny was a thing to be harnessed. a noble Russian family could date its ascent that remotely interested the new Grand She was born Princess Sophia of Anhalt- in society back to a handsome member Duke was the military, but Peter showed RZerbst, a minor German backwater, and catching Elizabeth’s eye. Her most lasting a marked preference for the traditions might well have become a mere footnote affair was with a handsome Ukrainian and styles of his native Holstein over of history had she not caught the eye of singer, Alexei , who wisely those of the . His idol was Empress Elizabeth of Russia. stayed away from all intrigue. Frederick the Great, Elizabeth’s lifelong Elizabeth was the daughter of Peter Any discreet attempts by Elizabeth bête noire, which did little to endear the the Great, the tsar whose legendary rule and Razumovsky to have children ended young Grand Duke to his Imperial aunt. completely transformed Russia from an in failure. While thoroughly enjoying the Despite his age, Elizabeth decided Peter isolated, medieval, semi-Asiatic state into a present, the childless Empress kept one wary must marry and produce an heir as quickly powerful Western European empire and eye trained on the future; the Romanovs had as possible, a baby she could rear herself maritime superpower. After her father’s been on the throne since 1613, but the and mold into an ideal future ruler of death in 1725, Elizabeth endured 11 succession after Peter had been choppy, Russia. A cursory glance at Europe’s royal uneasy years during the reign of her cousin, with four sovereigns in 16 years. studbook found Princess Sophia of Anhalt- Empress Anna, when her life was in constant To shore up confidence in her own Zerbst, and the young German princess danger. With the help of her father’s loyal reign, Elizabeth proclaimed her 14-year- was summoned with her mother to Russia regiments, she seized power from Anna’s old nephew, Peter Charles Ulrich, her with all haste. Elizabeth took care to ensure successor, the infant Ivan VI, in a bloodless heir. Peter arrived at court in 1742 and that Sophia, the niece of a handsome coup in 1741 and resolved to rule Russia was almost immediately a profound prince to whom Elizabeth had once been in the spirit of her illustrious father. The disappointment to the Empress. Though happily engaged, was healthy as well as beautiful and passionate Elizabeth was he was assigned a battalion of tutors and good-looking. It is not clear if Elizabeth energetic and exorbitant, owning more priests to help prepare him for his future bothered to ask about Sophia’s intelligence

92 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 93 The is a palace located in the town of , slightly south of St. Petersburg. The Great Hall or the Light Gallery is the most spacious premises in the Catherine Palace.

94 • l’automne 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’automne 2019 • 95 , or the Church of St. John the Baptist, was built under the direction of Catherine the Great. It is known as the cake church because of its pink and white color. ENCHANTED_FAIRY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Opposite: One of the oldest museums in the world, the State Hermitage was founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great upon her acquisition of a large collection of paintings. POPOVA VALERIYA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

confessing in her Memoirs: “…I cannot say the Imperial Guard. And though Sophia’s Catherine Palace, with its already-famous that I either liked or disliked [Peter]…to tell bridegroom, Peter found mystical rites of Room and immense marble the truth, I believe that the Crown of Russia Eastern Orthodoxy laughable, Elizabeth staircase. Each palace was a masterpiece attracted me more than his person.” Sophia herself was very devout, making elaborate of Russian , expanded from more recognized that it was Empress Elizabeth pilgrimages throughout Russia to atone modest versions by Elizabeth’s architect, who embodied the Crown of Russia. Their for her sins. To win Elizabeth’s favor, Bartolomeo Rastrelli, in his signature style relationship would never be an easy one, for Sophia worked hard to master both of brightly painted plaster facades, with Elizabeth proved a stern taskmaster. But she vernacular Russian and to memorize rococo sculptures. was also an excellent role model, and from the Orthodox Catechism. Soon, Sophia Peter the Great’s daughter, Sophia learned of Anhalt-Zerbst knelt and renounced many valuable lessons in statecraft. From her Lutheran faith and became the true arried life was far Elizabeth, Sophia learned the importance believing Catherine Alexeievna, named for from idyllic for of respecting the past and how vital it was to Elizabeth’s own mother, Catherine I. Catherine. Peter’s earn and keep the loyalty of the officers of The Imperial Court was centered behavior became around St. Petersburg, Russia’s new Mmore erratic and hostile, and he was unable maritime capital and Peter the Great’s or unwilling to consummate the marriage “Window on the West.” Catherine soon for many months. When Catherine accustomed herself to the rhythms of showed no signs of becoming pregnant, the Imperial year. Winters were spent Elizabeth placed the couple under strict in St. Petersburg at the ornate Winter supervision, threatening Catherine Palace, while in spring, the court moved with annulment and exile to a convent to opulent Peterhof, with its magnificent should she not produce the desired heir. Grand Cascade gushing into the Gulf During those barren years, Catherine of . In summer, they retreated to studied the classics and contemporary bucolic Tsarskoye Selo and the splendid Enlightenment philosophers, including Voltaire and Diderot. While Peter publicly flaunted his mistress, Catherine, probably with Elizabeth’s tacit approval, began a

96 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 97 passionate affair with handsome courtier, marked improvement in attitude towards On the night of June 28, 1762, Grigory’s the nucleus of the , Catherine’s Masters of Sergei Saltykov; Catherine’s son, Grand Catherine was not lost on the Empress’s elder brother, Alexei “Scarface” Orlov, named for the rooms in the Neoclassicism Duke Paul, was born roughly nine months close circle, and many of the councilors galloped with Catherine from Peterhof to she cherished as her private retreats. The Catherine’s new Imperial Crown later in 1754. Elizabeth immediately pledged their allegiance to Catherine. the barracks of the Izmailovsky Regiment. graceful Neoclassical buildings so evocative was a harbinger of the Palladian and whisked the infant away and showered him And another critically appeared on the Dressed in the green and red uniform of her reign remain potent symbols of the Neoclassical design in art, architecture, with all her pent-up maternal love. Saltykov scene—just when he was needed most. of the Imperial Guard, Catherine Golden Age of Imperial Russia. Catherine fashion, and urban design that was to was sent abroad, but soon a new love His name was , and he accepted the oath of allegiance from the certainly left Russia far more beautiful than dominate her reign. These choices were interest appeared on Catherine’s horizon: was the most handsome of five Orlov enthusiastic regiments and then led them she found it, gifting St. Petersburg and the deliberate as the new Empress sought the erudite, sophisticated, and romantic brothers, each equally as bold and reckless on horseback to the Cathedral, nation a superlative collection of painting to cast Russia in the role of the successor Stanislaw Poniatowski, a Polish-born prince, in the bedroom as he was on the battlefield. where she was proclaimed Catherine II and sculpture that attracts millions of state to the mighty empires of antiquity. and diplomat, by whom Catherine had at Orlov was no scholar and lacked the of Russia. Eight days later, Alexei Orlov tourists each year. [See sidebar.] In addition, Bartolomeo Rastrelli’s effervescent pastels, least one more child. Poniatowski understood refinement and romance of either Saltykov confessed to killing Peter III “by accident.” Catherine the Great left Russia larger and plaster flourishes of the flamboyant the complexities of Europe’s politics and was or Poniatowski. However, he was a man Shortly following the death of Peter and far more powerful than she found it, were eclipsed by instrumental in helping Catherine better of action and a popular officer in the all- III, in the Byzantine Sophia Palaiologina’s ensuring that the throne of Russia was the more subdued yellows, symmetrical understand how Russia interacted with important Imperial Guard, as were his soaring Assumption Cathedral in the secure for her six successors. Each in his designs and understated decorative motifs her neighbors, At the height of Catherine’s brothers. Catherine and Grigory soon Moscow Kremlin, Catherine placed turn would struggle to bear the weight— favored by Catherine’s leading architects. relationship with Poniatowski, Russia was embarked on a passionate and highly the dazzling new nine-pound diamond and the authority it represented—of the Catherine’s Court Architect Giacomo allied with Austria and France against an physical love affair, made more exciting by Imperial Crown on her own head. Today, nine-pound Imperial crown that Catherine Quarenghi left an indelible mark on Anglo-Prussian alliance led by Peter’s idol, their plans to overthrow Peter. Grigory’s the Imperial Crown holds pride of place in herself had declared “as light as a feather.” ■ St. Petersburg, creating some of the and Elizabeth’s sworn enemy, Frederick II loyal brothers worked behind the scenes to the Kremlin Armory’s Diamond Fund, the city’s most recognizable buildings: of . As Empress Elizabeth’s health drum up support for Catherine amongst glittering repository of Imperial Russia’s The Smolny Institute, The Hermitage declined, Grand Duke Peter’s continued the all-important Guards regiments. most valuable objects, together with the Theater, The Academy of Science and preference for Frederick II and Prussia When the hour came, it was thanks to the golden Imperial Orb and Imperial Sceptre, The at Tsarskoye Selo, worried many, including Catherine, who Orlovs’ swift action and the loyal support adorned with the 189.62- “Orlov” the primary residence of Russia’s last was also wary of her husband’s increasingly they engendered with the regiments that diamond, given to the Empress by Grigory Tsar, Nicholas II. In Moscow, Quarenghi vocal threats to send her to a convent and Catherine was able to realize her cherished Orlov. His gift of the diamond in 1771 was made much-needed improvements to marry his mistress the moment Empress ambition. “At the bottom of my soul,” she a last-ditch effort to rekindle his flagging the medieval Red Square. Elizabeth died. With Catherine’s fate reflected in her Memoirs, “I had something, relationship with Catherine. But he had Though her fingers may have itched hanging in the balance, Poniatowski I know not what, that never for a single already been eclipsed by the great love of reluctantly left Catherine and Russia. moment left me doubt that sooner or later Catherine’s life, the brilliant, mercurial, I would succeed in becoming the sovereign and passionate . In Empress of Russia in my own right.” Potemkin, Catherine found the perfect was then that Unfortunately, Elizabeth suffered a lover, soul mate, and partner in power. Catherine took massive stroke in December 1761 and She conspired to meet him whenever decisive action and died two days later. Catherine’s solemn and she could in the smaller, cozier annexes petitioned Elizabeth constant vigil at Elizabeth’s coffin as it lay in of the Winter Palace she called her Itto be allowed to return to Germany rather state in the Kazan Cathedral was in stark “hermitages.” He was also instrumental than endure the humiliation of her life contrast to the newly-proclaimed Peter in securing Imperial Russia’s annexation with Peter. It was a gamble, but Catherine III’s irreverent mocking of the Orthodox of the , which gave Russia access was confident that “the Empress felt funeral rites. Peter’s continued attacks on to the Black Sea and the integration of exactly as I did about her nephew.” the clergy, his plans to make peace with modern-day and , which She did not record the details of the Prussia, and his hostile behavior towards Catherine dubbed “New Russia.” conversation with Elizabeth, but she was Elizabeth’s councilors convinced all three Potemkin was at Catherine’s side for the not sent home to Germany. Elizabeth’s groups to pledge themselves to Catherine. apogee of her reign, but in all things, she still looked to Empress Elizabeth’s illustrious father, Peter the Great, for inspiration. Catherine erected a magnificent equestrian Saint Basil’s Cathedral in the Red Square is Moscow’s most famous artistic work of architecture and is statue, the Bronze Horseman, to Peter’s memory, considered a major symbol of the country. which has become an iconic symbol of REIDL / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM St. Petersburg. Catherine’s self-confessed “mania for collecting and building” formed

98 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 99 Until 1689, ballet in Russia was nonexistent. It wasn’t until the rise of Peter the Great that Russian society opened up to the West. A major patron of the arts, Catherine the Great helped further ballet by building ballet schools and theatres in Moscow and St. Petersburg. EML / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Opposite: A Fabergé egg at the Fabergé Museum, which houses the world’s largest collection of works by Fabergé in the Shuvalovsky Palace of St. Petersburg. FELIX LIPOV / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

100 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 101 to try, Catherine wisely did not attempt to Cathedral of The Holy Trinity at the the discerning winter traveler ample time and that is the age-old tradition of Today, Moscow and St. Petersburg are change Rastrelli’s facade of the Catherine Lavra and the elegant to stroll through a half-empty Kremlin expansive Russian hospitality, which, once vibrant culinary capitals, serving up food Palace. Instead, she commissioned Charles , Catherine’s extravagant Armory Chamber, feel the majesty of Red experienced, is not easily forgotten. from around the world to suit every palate. Cameron to create some of the Empress’s gift to Grigory Potemkin, which became Square, or enjoy the luxury of a leisurely Traditional peasant food has never And while vodka will always retain pride of favorite corners at Tsarskoye Selo, intimate the template for many provincial estates exploration of the Hermitage without gone out of fashion. Siberian pelmeni place at a groaning Russian table, Russian spaces where Catherine “[laid] aside all throughout the empire. Later, the Taurida waiting in line. Winter affords the possibility (dumplings), hearty soups, , and beer, wine, and champagne have become state, and [lived] with her ladies on the Palace served as the headquarters of the to admire the impressive Impressionists in pottages such as borscht and Shchi (cabbage equally popular, as have craft cocktails. footing of as easy intimacy as possible.” Provisional Government and the Petrograd the of Fine Art at your soup) remain as popular today as they were These were the exquisite Agate Room Soviet in 1917. own pace, linger in Rastrelli’s in Catherine the Great’s time. The and Cameron Gallery, decorated with Catherine’s Neoclassical style survived as long as you wish or spend a quiet half of Russia’s far-flung former states such Postscript: Jennifer Eremeeva is an American busts of the Classical and Enlightenment her, and for much of the nineteenth century, an hour with each of Peter Carl Fabergé’s as Uzbekistan, Georgia, Armenia, and expatriate writer who writes about travel, culture, philosophers Catherine most admired. it dominated the significant building works incomparable Imperial Easter Eggs at the Azerbaijan have added more exotic fare cuisine and culinary history, Russian history, and Antonio Rinaldi successfully made the in both St. Petersburg and Moscow. Carlo Link of Times Museum. such as Uzbek plov, shashlik (shish kebob) Royal History. Her work has appeared in Reuters, shift from Baroque to Neoclassical with Rossi, famous for clean lines and perfect Opera and ballet fans will rejoice in Chicken Tabaka and all manner of lamb, Fodor’s, USTOA, LitHub, The Moscow The on “Millionaire’s Row,” proportions, adorned the city with the finding the premier troops at the peak of eggplant and pork stews. Times, and Russian Life. She is the in-house Catherine’s generous gift to Grigory Orlov Alexandrine Theater and National Library. their season and form in the legendary The Russian countryside and dacha travel blogger for Alexander & Roberts. Jennifer “for grateful friendship” as the inscription He also designed Rossi Street, which bears Bolshoi and Mariinsky Theaters. tradition offer enthusiastic amateur chefs is the award-winning author of Lenin Lives over the main entrance reads. The Marble his name, known as the world’s most Winter is the time when Russia’s the opportunity to ferment and preserve Next Door: Marriage, Martinis, and Palace was the first building in St. Petersburg perfectly proportioned street. Today, it is stunning architecture really comes into nature’s bounty to sustain them for the Mayhem in Moscow and Have Personality faced with stone and the first completely home to the famous Vaganova Academy of its own; a dusting of white snow makes long winters. Jams, jellies, sauerkraut, Disorder, Will Rule Russia: A Pocket built in the Neoclassical style. Today, it is a Russian Ballet. Rossi is most famous for the the pastels of St. Petersburg and the and all manner of pickled vegetables are Guide to Russian History. branch of the extensive . dynamic parabolic General Staff Building vibrant colors and glittering onion domes essential components of Russian architect created that flanks the Winter Palace on Palace of Moscow’s St. Basil’s Cathedral come and not to be missed. the magnificent Neoclassical, single-domed Square. Joseph Bové adopted a design for alive. And where else can you discover Imperial Russia embraced all things the iconic Bolshoi Theater in Moscow for that a bracing shot of frozen vodka from French, and no aristocratic home was the company Catherine II founded in 1776. an outdoor ice bar is the perfect pick-me- complete without its French or Belgian up after a sleigh ride in a troika or a visit to chef de cuisine. From these men come Travel to Russia in Winter the festive Shrovetide markets? a range of dishes adapted from the For those prepared to brave subzero European canon and christened in honor temperatures and icy Baltic winds, winter of the Russian patrons: Stroganoff, Russia’s Surprisingly The Somali-American can be the best time to experience the full Eclectic Food Scene Orloff, and Cutlets . fashion model, actress range of Russia’s magnificent museums, Centuries of culinary history, a sprawling and entrepreneur, palaces, and performing arts. empire that spans multiple cultures and mononymously known The hordes of summer tourists and climates and episodic mania for importing as Iman, on location in cruise ship passengers are gone, leaving foreign ingredients and techniques make Loyangalani for a Russian cuisine difficult to pin down. Play Boy shoot on the One thing remains constant, however, south eastern coast of Lake Turkana in the NFD Kenya. PHOTOGRAPH BY VICTOR VAN KEUREN

Originally built in 1717 as a summer home for Catherine the Great, the Catherine Palace is filled with ornate rooms and the white and gold royal residence is surrounded by a 1400 acre-park with fountains and bridges. ORIOLE GIN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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