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Changing Experiences Considered the central square of Moscow, the Red Square is one of Russia’s most vibrant public spaces and was the location of the country’s most important historical and political events since the 13th century. PABLO1980 / CONTRIBUTOR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM A Visit to Woman Catherine of the the Great’s World With women-centric travel by Jennifer Eremeeva skyrocketing, one female-run, female-only travel company is offering the chance for life- Russia changing experiences. By Angela Caraway-Carlton 90 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’automne 2019 • 91 Aerial view of the Winter Palace and Aleksandr Column in Palace Square as seen through the triumphal chariot, a symbol of military glory, beyond ascertaining which languages she faith. Russia had weathered a 200-year atop the arch of the General Staff Building. could speak. This was less of a concern DROZDIN VLADIMIR / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM occupation by the Tatar Mongols, and the than her ability to give birth to an heir. Had civilizing influences of the Renaissance and Elizabeth inquired, she might have learned Reformation had passed the country by. that Princess Sophia was unusually bright In the subsequent two centuries, there had and well trained by a dedicated governess been frequent violent uprisings, civil strife who had honed and developed Sophia’s and numerous succession crises. Catherine the Great, portrait painting keen mind and natural curiosity, instilling in profile by Fyodor Rokotov, 1763. Sophia was following in the footsteps in Sophia rigorous study habits that would of another Princess Sophia who had left serve the princess well in the years to come. an indelible mark on Russia, arriving As Sophia made her way across in 1472 to marry Grand Prince Ivan. It Northern Europe in the dead of winter, was this Sophia who transformed the excitement and anticipation were no doubt modest wooden Moscow “Kremlin” into tempered with some anxiety. Russia was an impressive complex of elegant royal not like her native Germany, then a neat palaces and magnificent stone churches patchwork quilt of small principalities, topped with glittering gold domes, worthy Grand Duchies, and Landgraviates. It was of the Imperial legacy she brought as only half a century since Peter the Great well as its ancient symbols and traditions: had dragged his medieval realm into the the double-headed eagle and the community of European nations, ordering Imperial Roman title “Caesar,” which The Bronze Horseman his nobles to embrace European styles of was translated into Russian as “Tsar.” monument, erected dress and behavior. Russia was a Christian However, the majesty and might of this by Catherine the Great, and St. Isaac’s nation, but the alien, more mystical branch Moscow Kremlin was not lost on Sophia Cathedral in of Eastern Orthodoxy rather than Roman of Anhalt-Zerbst. She was less impressed Senate Square. Catholicism or Sophia’s own Lutheran with Peter, her prospective bridegroom, G_REG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ussia’s greatest ruler was never destined to than 5,000 dresses and dazzling jewels. She role as Russia’s autocrat, Peter proved sit on the Imperial throne. loved masked balls, the thrill of the chase a poor student and loathed everything But Catherine the Great firmly believed both of quarry and handsome men; many about his adopted country. The only thing that destiny was a thing to be harnessed. a noble Russian family could date its ascent that remotely interested the new Grand She was born Princess Sophia of Anhalt- in society back to a handsome member Duke was the military, but Peter showed RZerbst, a minor German backwater, and catching Elizabeth’s eye. Her most lasting a marked preference for the traditions might well have become a mere footnote affair was with a handsome Ukrainian and styles of his native Holstein over of history had she not caught the eye of singer, Alexei Razumovsky, who wisely those of the Russian Empire. His idol was Empress Elizabeth of Russia. stayed away from all intrigue. Frederick the Great, Elizabeth’s lifelong Elizabeth was the daughter of Peter Any discreet attempts by Elizabeth bête noire, which did little to endear the the Great, the tsar whose legendary rule and Razumovsky to have children ended young Grand Duke to his Imperial aunt. completely transformed Russia from an in failure. While thoroughly enjoying the Despite his age, Elizabeth decided Peter isolated, medieval, semi-Asiatic state into a present, the childless Empress kept one wary must marry and produce an heir as quickly powerful Western European empire and eye trained on the future; the Romanovs had as possible, a baby she could rear herself maritime superpower. After her father’s been on the throne since 1613, but the and mold into an ideal future ruler of death in 1725, Elizabeth endured 11 succession after Peter had been choppy, Russia. A cursory glance at Europe’s royal uneasy years during the reign of her cousin, with four sovereigns in 16 years. studbook found Princess Sophia of Anhalt- Empress Anna, when her life was in constant To shore up confidence in her own Zerbst, and the young German princess danger. With the help of her father’s loyal reign, Elizabeth proclaimed her 14-year- was summoned with her mother to Russia regiments, she seized power from Anna’s old nephew, Peter Charles Ulrich, her with all haste. Elizabeth took care to ensure successor, the infant Ivan VI, in a bloodless heir. Peter arrived at court in 1742 and that Sophia, the niece of a handsome coup in 1741 and resolved to rule Russia was almost immediately a profound prince to whom Elizabeth had once been in the spirit of her illustrious father. The disappointment to the Empress. Though happily engaged, was healthy as well as beautiful and passionate Elizabeth was he was assigned a battalion of tutors and good-looking. It is not clear if Elizabeth energetic and exorbitant, owning more priests to help prepare him for his future bothered to ask about Sophia’s intelligence 92 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 93 The Catherine Palace is a Rococo palace located in the town of Tsarskoye Selo, slightly south of St. Petersburg. The Great Hall or the Light Gallery is the most spacious premises in the Catherine Palace. 94 • l’automne 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’automne 2019 • 95 Chesme Church, or the Church of St. John the Baptist, was built under the direction of Catherine the Great. It is known as the cake church because of its pink and white color. ENCHANTED_FAIRY / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Opposite: One of the oldest museums in the world, the State Hermitage was founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great upon her acquisition of a large collection of paintings. POPOVA VALERIYA / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM confessing in her Memoirs: “…I cannot say the Imperial Guard. And though Sophia’s Catherine Palace, with its already-famous that I either liked or disliked [Peter]…to tell bridegroom, Peter found mystical rites of Amber Room and immense marble the truth, I believe that the Crown of Russia Eastern Orthodoxy laughable, Elizabeth staircase. Each palace was a masterpiece attracted me more than his person.” Sophia herself was very devout, making elaborate of Russian Baroque, expanded from more recognized that it was Empress Elizabeth pilgrimages throughout Russia to atone modest versions by Elizabeth’s architect, who embodied the Crown of Russia. Their for her sins. To win Elizabeth’s favor, Bartolomeo Rastrelli, in his signature style relationship would never be an easy one, for Sophia worked hard to master both of brightly painted plaster facades, with Elizabeth proved a stern taskmaster. But she vernacular Russian and to memorize rococo sculptures. was also an excellent role model, and from the Orthodox Catechism. Soon, Sophia Peter the Great’s daughter, Sophia learned of Anhalt-Zerbst knelt and renounced many valuable lessons in statecraft. From her Lutheran faith and became the true arried life was far Elizabeth, Sophia learned the importance believing Catherine Alexeievna, named for from idyllic for of respecting the past and how vital it was to Elizabeth’s own mother, Catherine I. Catherine. Peter’s earn and keep the loyalty of the officers of The Imperial Court was centered behavior became around St. Petersburg, Russia’s new Mmore erratic and hostile, and he was unable maritime capital and Peter the Great’s or unwilling to consummate the marriage “Window on the West.” Catherine soon for many months. When Catherine accustomed herself to the rhythms of showed no signs of becoming pregnant, the Imperial year. Winters were spent Elizabeth placed the couple under strict in St. Petersburg at the ornate Winter supervision, threatening Catherine Palace, while in spring, the court moved with annulment and exile to a convent to opulent Peterhof, with its magnificent should she not produce the desired heir. Grand Cascade gushing into the Gulf During those barren years, Catherine of Finland. In summer, they retreated to studied the classics and contemporary bucolic Tsarskoye Selo and the splendid Enlightenment philosophers, including Voltaire and Diderot. While Peter publicly flaunted his mistress, Catherine, probably with Elizabeth’s tacit approval, began a 96 • l’hiver 2019 • readelysian.com readelysian.com • l’hiver 2019 • 97 passionate affair with handsome courtier, marked improvement in attitude towards On the night of June 28, 1762, Grigory’s the nucleus of the Hermitage Museum, Catherine’s Masters of Sergei Saltykov; Catherine’s son, Grand Catherine was not lost on the Empress’s elder brother, Alexei “Scarface” Orlov, named for the rooms in the Winter Palace Neoclassicism Duke Paul, was born roughly nine months close circle, and many of the councilors galloped with Catherine from Peterhof to she cherished as her private retreats.
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