Chogori (K2) As Seen from Godwin-Austen Glacier, Karakoram Dr
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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
Everest Book Three the Summit
364910_FM_v1_. 10/13/11 10:44 PM Page iii GORDON KORMAN EVEREST BOOK THREE THE SUMMIT SCHOLASTIC INC. New York Toronto London Auckland Sydney Mexico City New Delhi Hong Kong 364910_FM_v2_. 11/2/11 11:25 PM Page iv For Daisy Samantha Korman My Summit If you purchased this book without a cover, you should be aware that this book is stolen property. It was reported as “unsold and destroyed” to the publisher, and neither the author nor the publisher has received any pay- ment for this “stripped book.” No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission of the publisher. For information regarding permission, write to Scholastic Inc., Attention: Permissions Department, 557 Broadway, New York, NY 10012. ISBN 978-0-545-39234-1 Copyright © 2002 by Gordon Korman. All rights reserved. Published by Scholastic Inc. SCHOLASTIC and associated logos are trademarks and/or registered trademarks of Scholastic Inc. 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 13 14 15 16 17/0 Printed in the U.S.A. 40 This edition first printing, March 2012 364910_Text_v1.qxd_. 10/13/11 10:41 PM Page 1 PROLOGUE The wind pounced on them above twenty-five thousand feet. As the youngest expedition in Everest history scrambled up the Geneva Spur, the onslaught be- gan — overpowering, unpredictable gusts that threatened to pluck the climbers off the mountain and hurl them into space. Amazingly, this was nothing new to them. -
Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013
AAC Publications Artur Hajzer, 1962–2013 Artur Hajzer, one of Poland’s best high-altitude climbers from the “golden age,” was killed while retreating from Gasherbrum I on July 7, 2013. He was 51. Born on June 28, 1962, in the Silesia region of Poland, Artur graduated from the University of Katowice with a degree in cultural studies. His interests in music, history, and art remained important throughout his life. He started climbing as a boy and soon progressed to increasingly difficult routes in the Tatras and the Alps, in both summer and winter, in preparation for his real calling: Himalayan climbing. He joined the Katowice Mountain Club, along with the likes of Jerzy Kukuczka, Krzysztof Wielicki, Ryszard Pawlowski, and Janusz Majer. His Himalayan adventures began at the age of 20, with expeditions to the Rolwaling Himal, to the Hindu Kush, and to the south face of Lhotse. Although the Lhotse expedition was unsuccessful, it was the beginning of his climbing partnership with Jerzy Kukuczka. Together they did the first winter ascent of Annapurna in 1987, a new route up the northeast face of Manaslu, and a new route on the east ridge of Shishapangma. Artur climbed seven 8,000-meter peaks and attempted the south face of Lhotse three times, reaching 8,300 meters on the formidable face. He even concocted a plan to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks in one year, a scheme that was foiled by Pakistani officials when they refused him the required permits. Artur proved he was more than a climber when he organized the massively complicated “thunderbolt” rescue operation on Everest’s West Ridge, a disaster in which five members of a 10-member Polish team were killed. -
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the Project
DEATH ZONE FREERIDE About the project We are 3 of Snow Leopards, who commit the hardest anoxic high altitude ascents and perform freeride from the tops of the highest mountains on Earth (8000+). We do professional one of a kind filming on the utmost altitude. THE TRICKIEST MOUNTAINS ON EARTH NO BOTTLED OXYGEN CHALLENGES TO HUMAN AND NATURE NO EXTERIOR SUPPORT 8000ERS FREERIDE FROM THE TOPS MOVIES ALONE WITH NATURE FREERIDE DESCENTS 5 3 SNOW LEOS Why the project is so unique? PROFESSIONAL FILMING IN THE HARDEST CONDITIONS ❖ Higher than 8000+ m ❖ Under challenging efforts ❖ Without bottled oxygen & exterior support ❖ Severe weather conditions OUTDOOR PROJECT-OF-THE-YEAR “CRYSTAL PEAK 2017” AWARD “Death zone freeride” project got the “Crystal Peak 2017” award in “Outdoor project-of-the-year” nomination. It is comparable with “Oscar” award for Russian outdoor sphere. Team ANTON VITALY CARLALBERTO PUGOVKIN LAZO CIMENTI Snow Leopard. Snow Leopard. Leader The first Italian Snow Leopard. MC in mountaineering. Manaslu of “Mountain territory” club. Specializes in a ski mountaineering. freeride 8163m. High altitude Ski-mountaineer. Participant cameraman. of more than 20 high altitude expeditions. Mountains of the project Manaslu Annapurna Nanga–Parbat Everest K2 8163m 8091m 8125m 8848m 8611m The highest mountains on Earth ❖ 8027 m Shishapangma ❖ 8167 m Dhaulagiri I ❖ 8035 m Gasherbrum II (K4) ❖ 8201 m Cho Oyu ❖ 8051 m Broad Peak (K3) ❖ 8485 m Makalu ❖ 8080 m Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak, K5) ❖ 8516 m Lhotse ❖ 8091 m Annapurna ❖ 8586 m Kangchenjunga ❖ 8126 m Nanga–Parbat ❖ 8614 m Chogo Ri (K2) ❖ 8156 m Manaslu ❖ 8848 m Chomolungma (Everest) Mountains that we climbed on MANASLU September 2017 The first and unique freeride descent from the altitude 8000+ meters among Russian sportsmen. -
Thirteen Nations on Mount Everest John Cleare 9
Thirteen nations on Mount Everest John Cleare In Nepal the 1971 pre-monsoon season was notable perhaps for two things, first for the worst weather for some seventy years, and second for the failure of an attempt to realise a long-cherished dream-a Cordee internationale on the top of the world. But was it a complete failure? That the much publicised International Himalayan Expedition failed in its climbing objectives is fact, but despite the ill-informed pronouncements of the headline devouring sceptics, safe in their arm-chairs, those of us who were actually members of the expedition have no doubt that internationally we did not fail. The project has a long history, and my first knowledge of it was on a wet winter's night in 1967 at Rusty Baillie's tiny cottage in the Highlands when John Amatt explained to me the preliminary plans for an international expedi tion. This was initially an Anglo-American-Norwegian effort, but as time went by other climbers came and went and various objectives were considered and rejected. Things started to crystallise when Jimmy Roberts was invited to lead the still-embryo expedition, and it was finally decided that the target should be the great South-west face of Mount Everest. However, unaware of this scheme, Norman Dyhrenfurth, leader of the successful American Everest expedition of 1963-film-maker and veteran Himalayan climber-was also planning an international expedition, and he had actually applied for per mission to attempt the South-west face in November 1967, some time before the final target of the other party had even been decided. -
Forbes.Com - Magazine Article
Forbes.com - Magazine Article http://www.forbes.com/global/2003/1027/026_print.html Companies & Strategies Joann Muller, 10.27.03 Disney's 4-D technology aims to take the adventure out of building roller coasters. Get this: In the middle of sun-drenched Orlando, Fla. the Walt Disney Co. is erecting a 60-meter-high replica of snow-covered Mount Everest. It's a showcase attraction scheduled to open in 2006 at Disney's Animal Kingdom theme park. The premise: Visitors board an old mountain railway headed to the foot of Mount Everest. As the train climbs higher into "the Himalayas," it passes thick bamboo forests, thundering waterfalls and shimmering glacier fields. But the track ends unexpectedly in a gnarled mass of twisted metal. Suddenly the train begins racing forward and backward through caverns and icy canyons until riders come face to face with a giant hairy creature--the mythical yeti. It's enough to scare the wits out of Don W. Goodman, who has the job of ensuring that the $100 million roller coaster is finished on time--and on budget. It is a logistical nightmare: Hundreds of workers from independent contractors must simultaneously build the roller coaster and the mountain that contains it. They will erect 1,200 tons of steel and install one and a half hectares of rockwork. Goodman, president of Disney's Imagineering research lab, compares it to assembling a 3-D puzzle. It is difficult to anticipate the conflicts that will arise, say, between workers installing faux rock formations and crane operators erecting steel tracks. -
Irish Successes on K2 Patagonia First Ascent
Autumn 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 127 Irish successes on K2 Two summit ten years after first Irish ascent Patagonia first ascent All-female team climbs Avellano Tower www.mountaineering.ie Photo: Chris Hill (Tourism Ireland) Chris Hill (Tourism Photo: 2 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2018 A word from the edItor ISSUE 127 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and elcome! Autumn is here registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, with a bang. There is a National Sports Campus, nip in the air and the Blanchardstown, Dublin 15, Ireland. leaves on the trees are Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 assuming that wonderful In the Greater ranges and in the Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 [email protected] golden-brownW hue. Alps, the effects of climate ❝ www.mountaineering.ie This has been an exciting year so far for change are very evident. Irish mountaineers climbing in the Greater Hot Rock Climbing Wall Ranges (see our report, page 20). In Nepal, In the Greater Ranges and in the Alps, the Tollymore Mountain Centre there were two more Irish ascents of Bryansford, Newcastle effects of climate change are very evident. County Down, BT33 0PT Everest, bringing the total to fifty-nine Climate change is no longer a theoretical Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 since the first ascent, twenty-five years possibility, it is happening. As mountaineers, [email protected] ago, by Dawson Stelfox in 1993. -
Volume 30 # October 2014
Summit ridge of Rassa Kangri (6250m) THE HIMALAYAN CLUB l E-LETTER l Volume 30 October 2014 CONTENTS Climbs and Explorations Climbs and Exploration in Rassa Glacier ................................................. 2 Nanda Devi East (7434m) Expedition 204 .............................................. 7 First Ascent of P6070 (L5) ....................................................................... 9 Avalanche on Shisha Pangma .................................................................. 9 First Ascent of Gashebrum V (747m) .....................................................0 First Ascent of Payu Peak (6600m) South Pillar ......................................2 Russians Climb Unclimbed 1900m Face of Thamserku .........................3 The Himalayan Club - Pune Section The story of the club’s youngest and a vibrant section. ..........................4 The Himalayan Club – Kolkata Section Commemoration of Birth Centenary of Tenzing Norgay .........................8 The Himalayan Club – Mumbai Section Journey through my Lense - Photo Exhibition by Mr. Deepak Bhimani ................................................9 News & Views The Himalayan Club Hon. Local Secretary in Kathmandu Ms. Elizabeth Hawley has a peak named after her .................................9 Climbing Fees Reduced in India ............................................................. 22 04 New Peaks open for Mountaineering in Nepal ................................ 23 Online Show on Yeti ............................................................................... -
Catalogue 48: June 2013
Top of the World Books Catalogue 48: June 2013 Mountaineering Fiction. The story of the struggles of a Swiss guide in the French Alps. Neate X134. Pete Schoening Collection – Part 1 Habeler, Peter. The Lonely Victory: Mount Everest ‘78. 1979 Simon & We are most pleased to offer a number of items from the collection of American Schuster, NY, 1st, 8vo, pp.224, 23 color & 50 bw photos, map, white/blue mountaineer Pete Schoening (1927-2004). Pete is best remembered in boards; bookplate Ex Libris Pete Schoening & his name in pencil, dj w/ edge mountaineering circles for performing ‘The Belay’ during the dramatic descent wear, vg-, cloth vg+. #9709, $25.- of K2 by the Third American Karakoram Expedition in 1953. Pete’s heroics The first oxygenless ascent of Everest in 1978 with Messner. This is the US saved six men. However, Pete had many other mountain adventures, before and edition of ‘Everest: Impossible Victory’. Neate H01, SB H01, Yak H06. after K2, including: numerous climbs with Fred Beckey (1948-49), Mount Herrligkoffer, Karl. Nanga Parbat: The Killer Mountain. 1954 Knopf, NY, Saugstad (1st ascent, 1951), Mount Augusta (1st ascent) and King Peak (2nd & 1st, 8vo, pp.xx, 263, viii, 56 bw photos, 6 maps, appendices, blue cloth; book- 3rd ascents, 1952), Gasherburm I/Hidden Peak (1st ascent, 1958), McKinley plate Ex Libris Pete Schoening, dj spine faded, edge wear, vg, cloth bookplate, (1960), Mount Vinson (1st ascent, 1966), Pamirs (1974), Aconcagua (1995), vg. #9744, $35.- Kilimanjaro (1995), Everest (1996), not to mention countless climbs in the Summarizes the early attempts on Nanga Parbat from Mummery in 1895 and Pacific Northwest. -
THE ITALIAN EXPEDITION to the KARAKORUM. A. Desio
THE 1954 ITALIAN EXPEDITION TO THE KARAKORUM AND THE CONQUEST OF K2 • BY PROFESSOR A. DESIO HE idea of an Italian expedition to K2 came into my mind as far back as 1929. In that year I had taken part as a geographer and geologist in the Duke of Spoleto's expedition, and had examined that enormous mountain from a climbing point of view. That expedition had also left several scientific problems open, which it was of great interest to clear up and solve. It was in 1936 that, with some friends, I set out to consider the matter seriously: but only in 1939 did I succeed in laying down the plan with the support of the Italian Alpine Club. The war suspended all such activities. In 1949 I began to glimpse the possibility of realising my dream, but serious difficulties, especially of an economic nature, were still in the way. Finally in 1952 the Italian National Olympic Com mittee placed the necessary funds at my disposal for a preliminary reconnaissance in Pakistan for collecting essential data for organising the expedition. But an unexpected obstacle dashed my hopes : per mission had already been granted by Pakistan to Dr. C. Houston, head of an American expedition, and for supply and transport reasons another permission could not be issued for the same year. I returned to Italy after having submitted a request for authority for a preparatory journey in 1953, and for an expedition to the Baltoro mountains in 1954, with two programmes, one scientific and the other mountaineer ing. The latter included the ascent of Kz. -
Age of Crystallization and Cooling of the K2 Gneiss in the Baltoro
Journal of the Geological Society, London, Vol. 147, 1990, pp. 603-606, 3 figs 2 tables. Printed in Northern Ireland SHORT PAPER evidence of Precambrian inheritance (Parrish & Tirrull989). Earlier pre-collision granites within theKarakoram Age of crystallization and cooling of the batholith include the Muztagh Tower unit (Fig. 1) composed K2 gneiss in the Baltoro Karakoram of biotite and hornblende-rich foliated granodiorites, which gave three K-Ar hornblende ages spanning 82-75 f 3 Ma M.P. SEARLE', R. R. PARRISH', (Searle et al. 1989), and the Hushegneiss, SE of the Baltoro R.TIRRUL** & D.C. REX3 area, which has a U-Pb zircon age of 145 f 5 Ma and two 'Department of Earth Sciences, Oxford University, 40Ar-39Arages of 203 f 0.6 Ma and 204 f 1.4 Ma (Searle et Parks Road, Oxford OX1 3PR al. 1989). Further west,hornblende-bearing granodiorites 'Geological Survey of Canada, 601 Booth Street, from the Hunza plutonic unit gave a U-Pb age of 95 f 4 Ottawa, Canada KlA OE8 (LeFort et al. 1983) and similar granites at the Darkot Pass Department of Earth Sciences, Leeds University, gave a Rb-Sr isochron age of 111 f 6 (Debon et al. 1987). Leeds, LS2 9JT These pre-collision granites of the Karakoram batholith all have calc-alkaline geochemical affinities and have been interpretedas Andean-type granitesalong thesouthern continental margin of the Asian plate, related to the Themountains of K2 (8611 m)and Broad Peak (8047111) in the northward subduction of Tethyan oceanic crust (LeFort et Baltoro (northernPakistan) are composedof Karakoram al. -
Annapurna I, East Ridge, Third Ascent. One of the Most Nota
C LIMBS A ND E XP E DITIONS : N E PA L 375 Nepal ANNAPURNA HIMAL Annapurna I, east ridge, third ascent. One of the most nota- ble accomplishments of the season was the second two- way traverse of the east ridge of Annapurna I (8,091m). When the well-known Pol- ish climber, Piotr Pustelnik, organized his four-man team for this task, he was well aware of the difficulties they would confront on this huge ridge, which starts from Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7,193m) in the east and runs westward over Roc Noir to the three 8,000m summits of Annapurna. However, he did not anticipate the addition of two not-so-highly skilled Tibetans on his permit and the problems one of them would present. The first ascent of the east ridge, which resulted in an elegant traverse of Annapurna, ranks with some of the most significant events in the history of Himalayan climbing. The ridge was first attempted by Germans in 1969, and again in 1981 by a Swedish team, the latter getting as far as the East Summit of Annapurna. Both approached via the West Annapurna Glacier and the east side of the col north of Fluted Peak. In September and October 1984 a six-man expedition entirely formed of Swiss guides, established four camps from the South Annapurna Glacier, climbing to the col between Fluted Peak and Tarke Kang from the more difficult but less dangerous west side, then, in common with the Germans and Swedes, up the ridge above to Tarke Kang itself.